Explaining what you're doing and why is a great method. Also giving people realistic expectations about success and failure was very nice to see. Great video!
So many spoon carving videos showcase the craftsman's obvious skill and aesthetic without necessarily instructing the viewer. Sean carves beautifully and explains thoroughly. This is what so many of us need. There's no better axing tutorial than this. His other video "Crank explained" is equally fantastic, and should not be missed. Truly appreciated, Sean. Thank you. 👍
Gosh.... thank you very much for your comment. I try to explain things that were sources of struggle during different parts of my carving journey. I’m so glad you find these videos helpful!
I've watched dozens of spoon carving how-to videos but finally, after watching this and your spoon crank video I'm feeling like I have a good visualization of how the process works. Thanks for breaking it down into steps that are easy to understand and for drawing the "Nike swoosh" on the billet. It's a great gift to be skilled at something and also be able to communicate how it's happening. Waiting on my axe to arrive and in the meantime I'll watch this a few more times :-D. Great explanation!
I’m super glad to hear you found the video helpful! I haven’t filmed any content in quite a long time so seeing folks still watching and commenting on these makes me very happy! Good luck in your carving, friend!
It was a very clear video. I loved seeing the intelligence in your hands, as well as hearing your explanation. It was especially useful to see you carve out two different spoons in the same video.
I carved my first spoon last week. I used a bandsaw but I can see a lot of advantages of using an axe and working with the natural grain directions. Thanks so much for sharing this! You are a true master.
NIIICE. A super and informative demo for us newfers and very much appreciated Sean. You teach so well via the explanations as you work. It's so helpful when a person begins! Thank you , again. I'm repeating myself, apologies there, Jeremy!
I just picked up spoon carving, done a handful of them and am pleasantly surprised my solutions I came up with are actually used by others! Looks like I am on the right track, and appreciate learning tricks from others I had not thought of. Thanks for the great content.
It’s funny how many of the techniques we use are simply because they are the natural way of getting it done, isn’t it? I’ve found a few things along the way that I do differently and certain grips I’ve not necessarily seen used by other carvers but, on the whole, we do what we do how we do it because it’s the way it was meant to be done
I know very little about metal shaping compared to spoon carving but I have to assume, beyond the science behind the medium, it has to be a fairly organic thing
Very informative tutorial!!! Are you inside on carpet? If the set up that your working on is portable or beaks down, I think all of those living in space/apartment with no garage for a shop, we all could benefit from an explanation or a "tour" of the setup. I have a shop that is insulated, but not yet heated. If I could set up something in my spare room for winter carving, I'd love to see it. Thanks and you got a new subscriber.
CrossGrain Wood Products,LTD my space is only 8’x4’ but suite my needs daily well for the time being. It’s basically just a floating floor on top of carpet. If I had to guess, I probably built the whole thing for $100 or so
Ron MCCARTY it brings me a great deal of happiness knowing these videos are enjoyed and that maybe some folks are benefitting from them. Thanks for the comment and for watching Ron!
Would it possible to know why your ax block has these different levels and notches? Great video thank you for explaining little details during the process
Absolutely. The V-Notches serve to brace the spoon when axing certain portions of excess mass from it, namely- the portion on the shoulders of the bowl. Having multiple levels ensures the spoon is always supported from underneath so axe blows don’t cause damage
Whooow, was transfixed with your so close axe work. The 37+ minutes flew by. Some great in-depth tips for ‘new’ to the world of spoon carving. Nice to hear, with all that experience that the timber rules and inevitably if it doesn’t want to be a spoon, it’s not going to be! Well filmed, just subscribed.
What an excellent presentation on spoon carving axe work. Stumbled on to this video and I have to say you have a new fan and subscriber. I am not a fan of FB, but I will go to your page to see what is there just because this video was so informative and well done. Thanks.
Thank you for the comment! I very much enjoy sharing what I do with others and have a great deal of pride in knowing I’m getting folks interested in these traditional skills
This my friend, is bar none the best rough out spoon carving video i have seen. enjoyed it so much, subbed your channel, looking forward to seeing more. thanks again, have a blessed weekend, dale
Heartland Outdoor Living thanks so much for the comment Dale. I do try to share what I know and do so freely. It gives me a good deal of pride knowing I can help someone achieve the results they’re looking for. I’ll be doing some axe and hook knife videos this year so be sure to look out for those. Might have to squeeze another roughing video in soon too! All the best- Sean
Looks like you made some modifications to the basic carving block and added some kind of tool holder around it which I can only get a glimpse of. I'd like to see a video tour of the whole thing.
@@HuronSpoonCo, I would love to see a 360° view and a build video. I've never done any of those builds yet for anvil blocks, tool blocks for the vice etc, your carving block, etc. I need to know sizes, heights, and anything else.
The height really depends on how tall you are. I’m 5’ 10” tall and I find the main level of my chopping black being at 36” is perfect. The top level of it is about three inches taller, which allows me to support the neck of the spoon blank while axe carving certain sections of it
@@HuronSpoonCo, 6'1" with a waist at 38-39". I can stand for a while then I have to sit or go for a walk for a bit. I'm guessing the log needs to be 18-24". I've got a vice with some lag bolts and washers to secure it and a small square of plate steel maybe 4x4". Need something for an anvil though. Don't get down to the recycling yard much.
Great video! Thanks so much! Maybe you mentioned this and I missed it, but is there a reason why you waited to put the crank in the second one until after you roughed out to your lines vs the first one when you put the crank in before roughing out to your lines? Was it because of the knots? I need to check if you already have a video on your chopping block, but if not, I'd love for you to talk about how you made it and what kind of wood it is. Thanks again.
Sandra Zern I don’t always follow the steps in order necessarily. I just kind of do whatever feels like an appropriate next step. As for my chopping block, I have an album on Facebook (I’m not sure if you have a FB page) that outlines how to make a similar one.
Great stuff. Your stropping video helped tons. I heard the accent before I saw your channel name and knew you were from Michigan. It’s hard to find green wood downriver!
grizol I hear ya brother! I’ve gotten lucky plenty of times but sometimes I have to rely on buying wood from people or trading. Glad the stripping vid helped you out!
Just getting started carving spoons and your channel has been unbelievably helpful. Do you have any recommendations for carving axes/hatchets for beginners? Looking for a "real tool", but one that won't break the bank. Once I know what I'm doing I can always move up to one of those fancy Swedish models. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment Scott. As far as a decent axe for a decent price, Robin Wood offers an axe in two different weights. Here’s a link to the lighter of the two wood-tools.co.uk/tools/the-robin-wood-axe/
Thankyou so much,the way you decribe what your doing step by step is so informative,especially for those whome are slightly dyslexic as myself ,could you tell me how do you make your stencils ,i know you ment on a earlier post regarding using clear folder binders but how are you able to copy the shape of the spoon considering the bevel ,sorry if that sounds confusing,but thankyou again amazing skills.
Don't you worry too much about being dyslexic. It has compensations. I bet you have a marvellous memory and a great ear for music. You'd probably also make a great wine taster.
Thank you for this and a couple of others I've watched of yours. I'm just barely getting into carving and this video has given me the confidence to do much more axe work than I previously felt comfortable doing. I also had a question about your chopping block. I appreciated your explanation on using the lower nook... are there other uses for that and the other one? If these are explained in the Facebook album you mentioned then I'll find my answer there but if not could you help me out? Thanks again, look forward to more videos in the future.
Colin Wood I appreciate the praise! I have another Facebook album for frequently asked questions which describes in detail how the notches in my stump are used. Hopefully you find it helpful! Happy carving!
Hi there Louise! Dry wood typically doesn’t absorb water very well. You may find that soaking dry wood will soften up a couple layers of wood, but it doesn’t usually soak in very deep.
Leslie Ray Hunt was talking about you i am totally new to green carving i have always harvested carving stock put it up to air dry for a couple years I have done handles for axes and hatchets for years out of ash and bitter walnut which is available here in Vermont on my land i have used oak also. I am going out and harvest a cherry tree tomorrow, does it matter f the tree is young 6 to 8 inch diameter
My apologies for the late reply! I'm just now seeing a ton of comments TH-cam flagged. To answer your question- 6-8" will work great and is the size i aimed for when i first began carving spoons. Thanks so much for the comment!
Hello. Thank you for this awesome video. When you dry it, does putting it in a ziploc bag, and sealing it work okay? How long do you leave it like that for before further carving with the knife? Thank you in advance
When aging out blanks, the goal is to keep them moist until you’re able to rough carve them with your knives. It’s isn’t until a spoon is 90% finished that I will intentionally dry them
Well thank you. I like to use flexible plastic page dividers or folders. I find that regardless of the color, the ones you can see through work best. It aids you in aligning your template and avoiding knots or other bad spots when applied to your billet
Great video, thanks for sharing. On axe maintenance - what grit do you use to keep that tool so sharp, and about how many spoons do you get before you resharpen (I appreciate this is wood dependent)?
Thank you. As for the grits I use, they’re the same whether I’m maintaining an axe or a knife. Usually I work in the following order: 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and follow up with a coarse strop and a fine strop with two different compounds on them. As for resharpening, it really does depend on how hard you use it and the characteristics of the woods you’ve carved with a given tool. If there’s lots of knots, inclusions, or you encounter foreign materials, you may need to address the cutting edge often. Some woods are high in silica as well, which typically translates to frequent sharpening due to nicks in the cutting edge. Hope this helps!
The weight doesn’t sound like it would be a problem but the ergonomics and geometry could be. It would also need a proper scandi grind, which would likely be too thin since cleavers are much thinner than axe heads.
Does the axe choice matter much? Will an Estwing sportsman hatchet do? Recommendation for someone on a budget? Or is this like hand planes, just spend the damn money because you really do get what you pay for? Thanks in advance.
My personal opinion- I really do believe in putting money into good tools. The axe is the most important tool you can have for spoon carving and wood processing. It lays the foundation for every subsequent knife cut. I’ve worked with a lot of axes and would recommend buying the best one you can afford.
If you’re good with resetting bevel angles and have a bit of patience, any hatchet with long bevels weighing between 1-2 lbs could be good for carving, depending on the weight you prefer. The Gransfors Bruk Wildlife Hatcher is a popular one as well, along with either of the carving axes Robin Wood makes, which can be found at wood-tools.co.uk
I began with a simple hardware store hatchet. It worked OK for 2 years. When I knew I was hooked on carving I bought a Hans Karlssan carving axe for around $300. It is more money than the Gransfors Bruks that is being used here. It is also lighter and an amazing axe. As well as spoons I also carve bowls. I would say the Gransfors Bruks is better for bowls as it is a heavier axe and it takes off more material in a wack. That can be a down side when carving smaller pieces of wood used for spoons. Either one can be used but fi you don't want to fork out $250-$300 any hatchet will do.
Bill Astell I used to use a lighter axe but found that the lack of heft translated to me having to use more force. After a year or two, I developed tendinitis in my right elbow/forearm. I found that an axe with more weight requires less force to use and thus meaning I can wield it for longer periods of time without fatigue or damage to my body. Everyone’s different though and some people prefer a smaller axe.
I've got to say you do an amazing accurate cut with the heavier axe. I'm doing a BIG bowl now and wish I had the heavier axe. Sadly I will have to make do at least for now.
Bill Astell don’t get me wrong, I’ve acquired some very nice tools over the past few years but there’s something to be said about doing the same job with tools that aren’t perfect for the job. I hollowed a whole bowl with a spoon knife once just to see if I could do it. It’s was slow, inefficient, and wreaked havoc on my hands but I was super proud when I finally finished it.
If you're referring to the length of the cutting edge, anything around 4" is good. Too much smaller and I'm not a fan. Too much larger and it's really not great for eating spoons IMHO.
802/5000 Halo HoronSpoonCo, I found your videos and I would like to carve spoons with my sons. We have axes from Gränsfors and Svante Djärv Super hand-forged knives. I have two little questions. 1. Where can I see how you made your chopping block, unfortunately I couldn't find anything on Fcebook. Maybe my problem, can you please send me a link? Second, are we not sure what the wood should be like, fresh from the forest, and if so, what time of year? Should it be fresh or does it have to be dry? I have seen that you collect some things in containers filled with water. Can you explain that to us in more detail? That would be really nice of you and we would be very happy. Many warm greetings from beautiful Brandenburg in north-east Germany Jens
Here's a link to the Stump build: facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2256430837713738&type=3 As far as the material its made from, I used Ash (a very hard wood) that had been seasoned for several years and it has held up very nicely compared to stumps I have made from wood that is softer and/or still green. Hope this helps!
the idea is to keep bringing your axe straight down, and pivot your work piece, that IS how you get a consistent strike. That's how you get better at your axe work 9:10 9💯
I keep hearing reference to the "grain change". Wondering if anybody has ever explained this in a video before. What exactly does that mean, and what does it require for consideration in axing, carving, etc.?
Typically, the grain direction of a given piece of wood is quite predictable and it’s easy to be able to tell what direction to cut from based solely on which section of a spoon you’re working in. Ideally, the grain runs straight from one end to the other but sometimes irregularities in the growth of a tree cause the grain direction to change. Sometimes this can be in the form of wavy grain, curly grain, knots, and many other types of anomalies. These instances cause us to get creative with the direction we cut the wood with various tools. Even experienced carvers may not be able to fully combat these irregularities in the grain completely. But understanding why they happen and how the wood is best cut (or from what angle) is your best chance at a clean finish with your tools.
Most of us in the spoon carving world prefer it this way, yes. It has separate challenges of its own when green, but easily overcome and it’s much nicer on your tools and your body when carved green.
If I’m going to carve a few but can’t get to all of them right away, I’ll store a few in a ziploc bag so moisture loss and consequent end grain checking doesn’t occur while they’re waiting to be carved
@@HuronSpoonCo Thanks...it looks humongous and tiring. Would you have preferred lighter as a beginner or does it not matter? I would understand a heavier head in the hands of an experienced carver, but for a beginner it may call for a lot of ill placed strokes and wood splitting and wrecking and lack of control. Any thoughts before I click an order button? Sorry, im a novice here and just trying to start.
cvcoco I wish it’s something I could give out great advice on but unfortunately it really is something the user has to determine. I found that axes around 1lb were much too light and required not only more strokes to do the job but also more force- which led to me having tendinitis in my elbow. I think anything between 1.25lb to 1.5 lb is a great weight for someone less experienced and 1.5lb to 2lb may benefit more experienced carvers. Keeping in mind that everyone’s muscles are different.
@@HuronSpoonCo Good points. Its the repetition thats led to a lot of our troubles like carpal tunnel syndrome and surgery and all that. Your next vid, "Exercises to Keep the Carver Out of a Hospital." And, carving dry, aged wood is punishing. Stay on green or damp wood. Where you use an axe, others use dremels and band saws and I see why. I want to be traditional about this but have to save the body too. Its all good today, the arthritis comes later and we wont know why. I was reading that Olympians wind up in wheel chairs by 70.
cvcoco I’ve actually recently written an article regarding safety for spoons carvers, though I’m still trying to figure out the best way to share it online without having a website.
The way i see the reason to use templates is for left-right symmetry. Aside from decoration that someone chooses, to me there is nothing worse than a weird spoon or other carving that isnt square or a handsome oval or something when that was the intention. When a spoon that was supposed to be round comes out like a trapezoid its not nice and there are only so many times you can blame your 5 year old kid. But a person can draw templates in their PC and print them. The reason im taking this up is to have the kitchen spoons I really want and cant buy anywhere and because I cant stand using stainless steel forks and spoons that keep touching my fillings and making me jump off the chair. Plastic spoons dont cut it. Besides, carving is very therapeutic, you can think through a lot of crap during hours of it.
For me, it makes sense to spend time once designing a good spoon and then applying that template onto wood for repeatable results. Once you carve the same design several times, you can see the benefit in not only the large picture details but also the minuscule. Sometimes I feel like I have a hard time telling my hands what to do when drawing designs. It seems like the pencil doesn’t want to go where my mind tells it to. So rather than spending 30 minutes drawing a given design every time I carve a spoon, I draw it once and make a permanent stencil for later use.
slowfingtyper as much as I love carving outdoors, the indoor experience can be just as nice. Even more so sometimes because of how easy it is to just walk into the next room and pick up your tools. No transporting tools or prep is necessary. I love it!
Eric Armel I plan to do more in the future. It’s difficult with a full time job that requires overtime every day, parenting, being in a relationship, and taking care of everything else life throws my way. I’ll do my best to put out more videos soon!
Explaining what you're doing and why is a great method. Also giving people realistic expectations about success and failure was very nice to see. Great video!
I appreciate that!
So many spoon carving videos showcase the craftsman's obvious skill and aesthetic without necessarily instructing the viewer. Sean carves beautifully and explains thoroughly. This is what so many of us need. There's no better axing tutorial than this. His other video "Crank explained" is equally fantastic, and should not be missed. Truly appreciated, Sean. Thank you. 👍
Gosh.... thank you very much for your comment. I try to explain things that were sources of struggle during different parts of my carving journey. I’m so glad you find these videos helpful!
I've watched dozens of spoon carving how-to videos but finally, after watching this and your spoon crank video I'm feeling like I have a good visualization of how the process works. Thanks for breaking it down into steps that are easy to understand and for drawing the "Nike swoosh" on the billet. It's a great gift to be skilled at something and also be able to communicate how it's happening.
Waiting on my axe to arrive and in the meantime I'll watch this a few more times :-D.
Great explanation!
I’m super glad to hear you found the video helpful! I haven’t filmed any content in quite a long time so seeing folks still watching and commenting on these makes me very happy! Good luck in your carving, friend!
It was a very clear video. I loved seeing the intelligence in your hands, as well as hearing your explanation. It was especially useful to see you carve out two different spoons in the same video.
I’m glad you were able to benefit from the video! Thanks for watching and for the comment!
thank you for sharing. What I enjoyed was you showed your way
You’re so welcome, Tom!
Thank you for this video. It really helped me see the order of operations and explanations of how to do things right and what can go wrong.
You’re very welcome!
Thank you for taking your time to make this video. Really enjoyed it.
Glad to hear it! You’re very welcome 😊
Definitely one of the best spoon carving videos I’ve seen! Great flow awesome carving stump! Can’t wait to see more, thanks man!
Keith Medeiros thanks very much Keith!
Thank you for this super helpful information, I’m so new at spoon carving, and I love how you do so much with the axe.
Thank you Norma! I'm always looking for ways to streamline my process and have it pretty much down now.
I carved my first spoon last week. I used a bandsaw but I can see a lot of advantages of using an axe and working with the natural grain directions. Thanks so much for sharing this! You are a true master.
Thanks for that Mike. It definitely takes some getting used to but the axe can often be more efficient than a bandsaw when held by a skilled hand
Thankyou. Very good video with plenty of informative commentary. You are to be commended on your willingness to share your knowledge and experience.
NIIICE. A super and informative demo for us newfers and very much appreciated Sean. You teach so well via the explanations as you work. It's so helpful when a person begins! Thank you , again. I'm repeating myself, apologies there, Jeremy!
Glad I could help!
Great instruction on axe carving. Like the way you explain your steps and why you are doing them. Great job!
Thanks for the feedback, Richard!
I just picked up spoon carving, done a handful of them and am pleasantly surprised my solutions I came up with are actually used by others! Looks like I am on the right track, and appreciate learning tricks from others I had not thought of. Thanks for the great content.
It’s funny how many of the techniques we use are simply because they are the natural way of getting it done, isn’t it? I’ve found a few things along the way that I do differently and certain grips I’ve not necessarily seen used by other carvers but, on the whole, we do what we do how we do it because it’s the way it was meant to be done
You're working intuitively...
Also trying to learn metal shaping…hope it is also a somewhat intuitive organic process.
I know very little about metal shaping compared to spoon carving but I have to assume, beyond the science behind the medium, it has to be a fairly organic thing
Great demonstration Sean.... Very informative and educational.. Great work...
Jimmy Mead much appreciated my friend!
Learned a LOT from this, especially with the nike check for the crank. I needed that! Thanks
Always glad to help out! Thanks for watching, Rhonda!
I agree with the other comments really informative. I find that when you know why something is done it becomes much easier to absorb. Great stuff.
Super helpful video. I'm relatively new to spoon carving and this was great teaching. Thanks
Of course! Welcome to the community Caleb!
A master class again. I so enjoy all your videos. My only problem is that I want more lol.
Thank you for all that you do.
Archie Arbuckle I have to say, you do give the best compliments! Thank you for the appreciation and the drive to keep making videos!
This was great! Thank you, Sean!
Thanks so much, Anne!
keen to see you open that bag and finish these 2 blanks
Thanks John. This video was filmed a few years ago and those spoons have moved onto new homes.
Because of you my wildlife hatchet is off the shelf and in my hand thanks for the kick up the arse I needed
Very informative tutorial!!! Are you inside on carpet? If the set up that your working on is portable or beaks down, I think all of those living in space/apartment with no garage for a shop, we all could benefit from an explanation or a "tour" of the setup. I have a shop that is insulated, but not yet heated. If I could set up something in my spare room for winter carving, I'd love to see it. Thanks and you got a new subscriber.
CrossGrain Wood Products,LTD my space is only 8’x4’ but suite my needs daily well for the time being. It’s basically just a floating floor on top of carpet. If I had to guess, I probably built the whole thing for $100 or so
Great video! Looks like your setup is in the house, awesome
I don’t live there anymore but I do work from home.
Fantastic instruction so logical and precise just a joy to watch and listen to thank you very much!
Ron MCCARTY it brings me a great deal of happiness knowing these videos are enjoyed and that maybe some folks are benefitting from them. Thanks for the comment and for watching Ron!
Would it possible to know why your ax block has these different levels and notches? Great video thank you for explaining little details during the process
Absolutely. The V-Notches serve to brace the spoon when axing certain portions of excess mass from it, namely- the portion on the shoulders of the bowl. Having multiple levels ensures the spoon is always supported from underneath so axe blows don’t cause damage
very good video like your calm talk,greetings from the israeli desert
Whooow, was transfixed with your so close axe work.
The 37+ minutes flew by. Some great in-depth tips for ‘new’ to the world of spoon carving.
Nice to hear, with all that experience that the timber rules and inevitably if it doesn’t want to be a spoon, it’s not going to be!
Well filmed, just subscribed.
Thank you!
Very educational! Thanks.
I hope to find a video describing your work area because that's where I need to start.
I’ve considered this before. Might be worth shooting a video😉
What an excellent presentation on spoon carving axe work. Stumbled on to this video and I have to say you have a new fan and subscriber. I am not a fan of FB, but I will go to your page to see what is there just because this video was so informative and well done. Thanks.
Thank you for the comment! I very much enjoy sharing what I do with others and have a great deal of pride in knowing I’m getting folks interested in these traditional skills
Ah, that was perfect, I now know how to make my crank, lots else to learn!
Glad you found its useful! Thanks for watching!
Think I found a new hobby! Of course you made that look real easy. Lol
lol after several years of carving blanks for myself and my customers, it's really just repetition. There isn't much guess work left at this point :)
This my friend, is bar none the best rough out spoon carving video i have seen.
enjoyed it so much, subbed your channel, looking forward to seeing more.
thanks again, have a blessed weekend,
dale
Heartland Outdoor Living thanks so much for the comment Dale. I do try to share what I know and do so freely. It gives me a good deal of pride knowing I can help someone achieve the results they’re looking for. I’ll be doing some axe and hook knife videos this year so be sure to look out for those. Might have to squeeze another roughing video in soon too! All the best- Sean
Helpful, I have been struggling with the strop
I’m glad you could benefit from it😊
Thank You once again for Sharing...I enjoy Your video's ! 😊
You’re extremely welcome!!
Great video! You explain very well!👍
Thank you very much!
Looks like you made some modifications to the basic carving block and added some kind of tool holder around it which I can only get a glimpse of.
I'd like to see a video tour of the whole thing.
I’m actually in the process of building a new one. It’s been years since I made the one you see here and it’s time for it to be replaced.
@@HuronSpoonCo, I would love to see a 360° view and a build video.
I've never done any of those builds yet for anvil blocks, tool blocks for the vice etc, your carving block, etc. I need to know sizes, heights, and anything else.
The height really depends on how tall you are. I’m 5’ 10” tall and I find the main level of my chopping black being at 36” is perfect. The top level of it is about three inches taller, which allows me to support the neck of the spoon blank while axe carving certain sections of it
@@HuronSpoonCo, 6'1" with a waist at 38-39". I can stand for a while then I have to sit or go for a walk for a bit. I'm guessing the log needs to be 18-24". I've got a vice with some lag bolts and washers to secure it and a small square of plate steel maybe 4x4". Need something for an anvil though. Don't get down to the recycling yard much.
I need to make a chopping block like yours, very cool
Thank you! It has served me well!
Excellent video! 🙂
Thank you!
Great video thanks for showing us. Take care.
Thanks so much!
Great video! Thanks so much! Maybe you mentioned this and I missed it, but is there a reason why you waited to put the crank in the second one until after you roughed out to your lines vs the first one when you put the crank in before roughing out to your lines? Was it because of the knots? I need to check if you already have a video on your chopping block, but if not, I'd love for you to talk about how you made it and what kind of wood it is. Thanks again.
Sandra Zern I don’t always follow the steps in order necessarily. I just kind of do whatever feels like an appropriate next step. As for my chopping block, I have an album on Facebook (I’m not sure if you have a FB page) that outlines how to make a similar one.
Great stuff. Your stropping video helped tons. I heard the accent before I saw your channel name and knew you were from Michigan. It’s hard to find green wood downriver!
grizol I hear ya brother! I’ve gotten lucky plenty of times but sometimes I have to rely on buying wood from people or trading. Glad the stripping vid helped you out!
Are you carving in your living room? on the carpet? AWESOME
I have moved since this video was filmed, but yes I was carving in a corner of the living room that I modified for carving.
i se you have notches in your shopping block. what are they for
thank you enjoyed your video
They’re for bracing the spoon blank in so it supports the work from the side opposite of the axe work
Nice job! Thanks for the demo.
You’re very welcome!
Buen trabajo, saludos, ¿que madera utilizas en este video? ¿y cual recomendarías para una persona que se inicia?
Great video! Thank you
Thank you as well, Jim!
Just getting started carving spoons and your channel has been unbelievably helpful. Do you have any recommendations for carving axes/hatchets for beginners? Looking for a "real tool", but one that won't break the bank. Once I know what I'm doing I can always move up to one of those fancy Swedish models. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the comment Scott. As far as a decent axe for a decent price, Robin Wood offers an axe in two different weights. Here’s a link to the lighter of the two wood-tools.co.uk/tools/the-robin-wood-axe/
Great video!
Thank you!
Very informative. Thank you
You’re quite welcome!
Thankyou so much,the way you decribe what your doing step by step is so informative,especially for those whome are slightly dyslexic as myself ,could you tell me how do you make your stencils ,i know you ment on a earlier post regarding using clear folder binders but how are you able to copy the shape of the spoon considering the bevel ,sorry if that sounds confusing,but thankyou again amazing skills.
Hi there Chris. The bevels are all carved by eye and aren’t something I consider at all when making stencils. Is this what you meant?
Yep,thankyou very much ,that makes sense ,thxs again for all your tutorials theve been a great help for me to improve ,cheers
Don't you worry too much about being dyslexic. It has compensations. I bet you have a marvellous memory and a great ear for music. You'd probably also make a great wine taster.
Thank you for this and a couple of others I've watched of yours. I'm just barely getting into carving and this video has given me the confidence to do much more axe work than I previously felt comfortable doing.
I also had a question about your chopping block. I appreciated your explanation on using the lower nook... are there other uses for that and the other one? If these are explained in the Facebook album you mentioned then I'll find my answer there but if not could you help me out? Thanks again, look forward to more videos in the future.
Colin Wood I appreciate the praise! I have another Facebook album for frequently asked questions which describes in detail how the notches in my stump are used. Hopefully you find it helpful! Happy carving!
great video! can I do this with dryed wood? or if put dry wood in the wather is the same effect as green wood? cheers from brazil
Hi there Louise! Dry wood typically doesn’t absorb water very well. You may find that soaking dry wood will soften up a couple layers of wood, but it doesn’t usually soak in very deep.
Just brilliant. Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Leslie Ray Hunt was talking about you i am totally new to green carving i have always harvested carving stock put it up to air dry for a couple years I have done handles for axes and hatchets for years out of ash and bitter walnut which is available here in Vermont on my land i have used oak also. I am going out and harvest a cherry tree tomorrow, does it matter f the tree is young 6 to 8 inch diameter
My apologies for the late reply! I'm just now seeing a ton of comments TH-cam flagged. To answer your question- 6-8" will work great and is the size i aimed for when i first began carving spoons. Thanks so much for the comment!
Hello. Thank you for this awesome video. When you dry it, does putting it in a ziploc bag, and sealing it work okay? How long do you leave it like that for before further carving with the knife? Thank you in advance
When aging out blanks, the goal is to keep them moist until you’re able to rough carve them with your knives. It’s isn’t until a spoon is 90% finished that I will intentionally dry them
Nice tutorial video. Thank you
First time finding your channel, just curious what do you make your templates out of. I appreciate how you explain every. Thank you
Well thank you. I like to use flexible plastic page dividers or folders. I find that regardless of the color, the ones you can see through work best. It aids you in aligning your template and avoiding knots or other bad spots when applied to your billet
Awesome video! Just wondering what model/size that Silky Gomboy is? Thanks!
Joshua Perry this one was originally the 240 blade but was replaced with a 210. Lately I’ve been using the Silky Pocketboy 170
Great video, thanks for sharing.
On axe maintenance - what grit do you use to keep that tool so sharp, and about how many spoons do you get before you resharpen (I appreciate this is wood dependent)?
Thank you. As for the grits I use, they’re the same whether I’m maintaining an axe or a knife. Usually I work in the following order: 600, 1000, 1500, 2000 and follow up with a coarse strop and a fine strop with two different compounds on them. As for resharpening, it really does depend on how hard you use it and the characteristics of the woods you’ve carved with a given tool. If there’s lots of knots, inclusions, or you encounter foreign materials, you may need to address the cutting edge often. Some woods are high in silica as well, which typically translates to frequent sharpening due to nicks in the cutting edge. Hope this helps!
@@HuronSpoonCo Thank you sir, that is very helpful. (I'm getting started in this hobby.)
LyKaI0s I’m here for all kinds of questions. I’d love to help if you need it in the future.
Wish I saw this before I started making my first one. I'm still in the process.
Great video, thank you!!!!!!!
You’re very welcome!
Thank you for this lesson!!!
Can I ask something? I have a beautiful heavy Ochsenkopf vintage cleaver. It weighs 600gms. Can I use it for spoon carving in place of an axe?
The weight doesn’t sound like it would be a problem but the ergonomics and geometry could be. It would also need a proper scandi grind, which would likely be too thin since cleavers are much thinner than axe heads.
Belo vídeo, parabéns! Porque você deixa as colheres em sacos plásticos? Grande Abraço do país Brasil, estado Bahia, cidade Canudos!
Super useful, thank you 🙏
Stu Haysman I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Great tutorial!
Thank you!
Great video!! Very informative and entertaining . Im learning alot from you .How do you get your templates?
I make my templates from my own designs out of plastic page dividers
@@HuronSpoonCo thank you
Great tutorial again.
How did you get those V grooves in your chopping block? It's the best carving block I've seen.
Thank you very much. You can either use a chainsaw when you cut the block to length, or use a chisel and hammer
GOOD JOB. !! 😊
Thank you!
Thanks for the video! Just curious: Do you have any neighbors living downstairs?
There is no downstairs in this house
Very helpful, thanks.
Where did you get the axe from?
Justin Whitmire that axe is from a good friend of mine who is a Gransfors Bruk dealer
Thanks man!!
recommendation for an affordable axe?
Also, what saw is that you are using? Looks like the one I seen on LeeValley.
Josh Whitehead of Greenhaven Forge is selling very affordable axes currently. As for the saw, I generally use the Silky Gomboy or the Silky Pocketboy.
Does the axe choice matter much? Will an Estwing sportsman hatchet do? Recommendation for someone on a budget? Or is this like hand planes, just spend the damn money because you really do get what you pay for?
Thanks in advance.
My personal opinion- I really do believe in putting money into good tools. The axe is the most important tool you can have for spoon carving and wood processing. It lays the foundation for every subsequent knife cut. I’ve worked with a lot of axes and would recommend buying the best one you can afford.
@@HuronSpoonCo Cool. I wish someone had told me that before I bought my first hand plane. Thank you!
Amazing work man. Is there a cheaper carving axe that you could recommend?
If you’re good with resetting bevel angles and have a bit of patience, any hatchet with long bevels weighing between 1-2 lbs could be good for carving, depending on the weight you prefer. The Gransfors Bruk Wildlife Hatcher is a popular one as well, along with either of the carving axes Robin Wood makes, which can be found at wood-tools.co.uk
I began with a simple hardware store hatchet. It worked OK for 2 years. When I knew I was hooked on carving I bought a Hans Karlssan carving axe for around $300. It is more money than the Gransfors Bruks that is being used here. It is also lighter and an amazing axe. As well as spoons I also carve bowls. I would say the Gransfors Bruks is better for bowls as it is a heavier axe and it takes off more material in a wack. That can be a down side when carving smaller pieces of wood used for spoons. Either one can be used but fi you don't want to fork out $250-$300 any hatchet will do.
Bill Astell I used to use a lighter axe but found that the lack of heft translated to me having to use more force. After a year or two, I developed tendinitis in my right elbow/forearm. I found that an axe with more weight requires less force to use and thus meaning I can wield it for longer periods of time without fatigue or damage to my body. Everyone’s different though and some people prefer a smaller axe.
I've got to say you do an amazing accurate cut with the heavier axe. I'm doing a BIG bowl now and wish I had the heavier axe. Sadly I will have to make do at least for now.
Bill Astell don’t get me wrong, I’ve acquired some very nice tools over the past few years but there’s something to be said about doing the same job with tools that aren’t perfect for the job. I hollowed a whole bowl with a spoon knife once just to see if I could do it. It’s was slow, inefficient, and wreaked havoc on my hands but I was super proud when I finally finished it.
good instruction, but I'll wear shoes. And, have you ever considered using a stock/clog knife for safer cuts with greater control?
Most stock knives seem to exacerbate wrist problems, which I already have.
I’m new to spoon carving and having a wider axe head better or just preference?
If you're referring to the length of the cutting edge, anything around 4" is good. Too much smaller and I'm not a fan. Too much larger and it's really not great for eating spoons IMHO.
802/5000
Halo HoronSpoonCo, I found your videos and I would like to carve spoons with my sons. We have axes from Gränsfors and Svante Djärv Super hand-forged knives. I have two little questions. 1. Where can I see how you made your chopping block, unfortunately I couldn't find anything on Fcebook. Maybe my problem, can you please send me a link?
Second, are we not sure what the wood should be like, fresh from the forest, and if so, what time of year? Should it be fresh or does it have to be dry? I have seen that you collect some things in containers filled with water. Can you explain that to us in more detail? That would be really nice of you and we would be very happy. Many warm greetings from beautiful Brandenburg in north-east Germany Jens
Here's a link to the Stump build:
facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.2256430837713738&type=3
As far as the material its made from, I used Ash (a very hard wood) that had been seasoned for several years and it has held up very nicely compared to stumps I have made from wood that is softer and/or still green.
Hope this helps!
where's my strike going to land
if things dont go well
5:15
thank you.
such concise
the idea is to keep bringing your axe straight down, and pivot your work piece, that IS how you get a consistent strike. That's how you get better at your axe work 9:10 9💯
I’m glad you found the video helpful! Thanks for the comments!
Hi. Is this a double bevel or single axe? Regards
It’s a single! Thanks for watching!
I keep hearing reference to the "grain change". Wondering if anybody has ever explained this in a video before. What exactly does that mean, and what does it require for consideration in axing, carving, etc.?
Typically, the grain direction of a given piece of wood is quite predictable and it’s easy to be able to tell what direction to cut from based solely on which section of a spoon you’re working in. Ideally, the grain runs straight from one end to the other but sometimes irregularities in the growth of a tree cause the grain direction to change. Sometimes this can be in the form of wavy grain, curly grain, knots, and many other types of anomalies. These instances cause us to get creative with the direction we cut the wood with various tools. Even experienced carvers may not be able to fully combat these irregularities in the grain completely. But understanding why they happen and how the wood is best cut (or from what angle) is your best chance at a clean finish with your tools.
@@HuronSpoonCo thanks. After watching you carve that piece, it became more clear what it means
Great! Thank you.
K Dekel you’re quite welcome!
Subscribed. Now to collect tools. Should be cheaper than my wife’s Stamps
😂😂😂
Your wife's stamps have more appreciation value...
Now I have to do this, I have a brand new hatchet perfect for this.
Oh good! What hatchet?
So the wood should be green?
Most of us in the spoon carving world prefer it this way, yes. It has separate challenges of its own when green, but easily overcome and it’s much nicer on your tools and your body when carved green.
@@HuronSpoonCo good to know, thank you.
💯
amazing work Greetings from Hungary ..Subscribet :-)
Thanks for the sub!
Why you keep them in ziplock bag for please let me know thanks
If I’m going to carve a few but can’t get to all of them right away, I’ll store a few in a ziploc bag so moisture loss and consequent end grain checking doesn’t occur while they’re waiting to be carved
@@HuronSpoonCo thank you very much for replying back you are the best and I like your nature the way you talk good luck
Whats the weight of that axe head? I have a choice when buying-- 500, 600, 800 and 1000g.
cvcoco honestly I don’t remember but if I had to guess I’d say it’s 800g
@@HuronSpoonCo Thanks...it looks humongous and tiring. Would you have preferred lighter as a beginner or does it not matter? I would understand a heavier head in the hands of an experienced carver, but for a beginner it may call for a lot of ill placed strokes and wood splitting and wrecking and lack of control. Any thoughts before I click an order button? Sorry, im a novice here and just trying to start.
cvcoco I wish it’s something I could give out great advice on but unfortunately it really is something the user has to determine. I found that axes around 1lb were much too light and required not only more strokes to do the job but also more force- which led to me having tendinitis in my elbow. I think anything between 1.25lb to 1.5 lb is a great weight for someone less experienced and 1.5lb to 2lb may benefit more experienced carvers. Keeping in mind that everyone’s muscles are different.
@@HuronSpoonCo Good points. Its the repetition thats led to a lot of our troubles like carpal tunnel syndrome and surgery and all that. Your next vid, "Exercises to Keep the Carver Out of a Hospital." And, carving dry, aged wood is punishing. Stay on green or damp wood. Where you use an axe, others use dremels and band saws and I see why. I want to be traditional about this but have to save the body too. Its all good today, the arthritis comes later and we wont know why. I was reading that Olympians wind up in wheel chairs by 70.
cvcoco I’ve actually recently written an article regarding safety for spoons carvers, though I’m still trying to figure out the best way to share it online without having a website.
The way i see the reason to use templates is for left-right symmetry. Aside from decoration that someone chooses, to me there is nothing worse than a weird spoon or other carving that isnt square or a handsome oval or something when that was the intention. When a spoon that was supposed to be round comes out like a trapezoid its not nice and there are only so many times you can blame your 5 year old kid. But a person can draw templates in their PC and print them. The reason im taking this up is to have the kitchen spoons I really want and cant buy anywhere and because I cant stand using stainless steel forks and spoons that keep touching my fillings and making me jump off the chair. Plastic spoons dont cut it. Besides, carving is very therapeutic, you can think through a lot of crap during hours of it.
For me, it makes sense to spend time once designing a good spoon and then applying that template onto wood for repeatable results. Once you carve the same design several times, you can see the benefit in not only the large picture details but also the minuscule. Sometimes I feel like I have a hard time telling my hands what to do when drawing designs. It seems like the pencil doesn’t want to go where my mind tells it to. So rather than spending 30 minutes drawing a given design every time I carve a spoon, I draw it once and make a permanent stencil for later use.
Have You Carved Spoons Using A Hand Saw?
:10 what the fuck did I just learn how to do💯
I blindly made 2 spoons with my hatchet and there's a lot to it than you would think they were funny looking spoons bye the way
Were they usable?
@@HuronSpoonCo I don't believe so. I think I'll be better now at carving spoons
It’s never a complete loss. Even on spoons that don’t make it, you always learn something valuable.
Yeah
Anyway, they're _your_ spoons...
hello, dude, can you give me the files of your spoon shapes? to copy them. thank you. sorry I'm italian.
thespooncrank.com/product/seans-templates-collection/
13 minutes in before I realized you were inside. Great instruction though
slowfingtyper as much as I love carving outdoors, the indoor experience can be just as nice. Even more so sometimes because of how easy it is to just walk into the next room and pick up your tools. No transporting tools or prep is necessary. I love it!
Well, then, just about to relaxation of what you’re doing in building something and carving something isn’t it about that?
I’m not sure I understand your comment.
It's EASY...
Start with a tree...
cut/chop off everything that does not look like a spoon. 👍 😂
Pretty much! Easier said than done until you've had a few under your belt though, right?
Why don't you make more videos i really wish you would
Eric Armel I plan to do more in the future. It’s difficult with a full time job that requires overtime every day, parenting, being in a relationship, and taking care of everything else life throws my way. I’ll do my best to put out more videos soon!
I Power Carve My Stuff.
:100
:10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10 :10