Does the 1531 use the same glass that is used in L3 Pvs-31a’s? And do they auto shut off if you articulate them to the sides? I heard the pvs-31a don’t auto shut off when articulating?
Just sold a PVS31D from a contract that's not even out yet with stupid numbers/specs, and got this housing with another set of tubes I'm paying a 3 oz higher penalty, but the perks far outweigh the cons!
The best technique is to focus each pod at a time. Don't close your eyes just swing the pod up so for example start with your dominant eye and move the other pod up. Begin with the front objective lens and focus for your viewing distance. If you're outside, focus it for infinity distance by looking at a star, and if you can't see any then whatever is the furthest away for instance a mountain. Get into focus. Then adjust the diopter focus (the lens near your eye). You may need to go back to the front objective lens and tweak it. When done, move that pod up, and repeat with the other pod/eye. When done bring them both together so you're looking through both. You may need to tweak the diopters slightly.
Optics 1 who makes the AN/PAS-29B aka ECOTI and also the new for 2024 TAD, makes a bracket for the BNVD-1531. This bracket is not compatible with the Chinese Jerry clone
SO thankful I found this channel! Been confused as hell looking at everything, and these videos are perfect! Tons of detailed info! Still have tons to sift through, but looking at DTNVS vs BNVD, can't quite tell the difference other than CR123 vs AA battery, and looks like the DTNVS will shut off while articulating, while the BNVD only shuts off when lifting the unit? DTNVS has auto-gain, while BNVD has manual gain. DTNVS has add on Inter-pupillary Deistance Stops, BNVD comes with them standard. What else am I missing? Also, SUPER dumb question regarding gain: if a unit has manual gain like these BNVD's, that means the user HAS to adjust it themselves all the time, depending on lighting conditions, correct? Meaning, it absolutely does not auto gain at all? Or will they "auto-gain" so to speak, but the user is still able to manually adjust gain when they want? Thanks to anyone who replies. This shit is confusing. Lol
Thanks, I sincerely appreciate it. “Auto gain” is really not the best description. The difference between the types of tubes is that the DTNVS uses 10160 format tubes which have their maximum gain/brightness fixed. The BNVD1531 uses a 11769 format that allows for the maximum gain/brightness to be adjusted. Both tube formats actually do what people refer to as “autogain” which is the tube dims down based on the ambient lighting brightness level. This function is called ABC (automatic brightness control).
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Damn, ok gotcha. Thanks man. Last question about these and I'll stop bothering you: Only a 1 year warranty on these, which is from L3 (meaning they'd have to be sent back to L3 for repairs)? No 10 year from TNVC?
Weird question, but do you know of anyone who’s ran RPO lightweight objectives and/or DEP ether eyepieces on the BNVD-1531? I know a lot of people would say “just buy 31’s”, but I prefer having adjustable diopters due to my eyes, therefore debating buying 1531’s, and slowly upgrading them over a longer period of time to have lighter eyepieces/objectives while keeping the factory glass for replacement parts in case I damage something.
I don’t know of anyone who’s done it. I personally don’t feel that the 1531s feel heavy but shaving weight is always nice. We do carry RPO, although they’re not listed on the site.
@@WheelchairOperator Hell yeah, do it! 1531’s are great goggles. I don’t know of anyone who’s swapped them out. The weight savings would be nice 😎 I just snagged a new FAST SF Carbon worm. Awesome lid!! I’m still keeping my old FAST Carbon for one of my set ups but the new one is my favorite.
If you look at the different housings you’ll see that you can only mount it on the lens on the 1531. There’s no where else to mount it. The housing is too thick
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION do you think the Ecoti is worth it? I have the ecoti and am waiting on my 1531’s to arrive. Made the mistake of buying from licentia arms and they wont even tell you when to expect the items. Found them cheaper too.
@@ballinonabudget1130 It honestly depends on what you expect it to do. It’s a great way have thermal detection capability and depending on the object recognition. It’s a fully Mil-Spec device so it’s durability is exceptional. Licentia is a good outfit and an official L3 reseller. L3 can have long lead times. I’m sure if you contact them they can give you an ETA
I am trying to grt one of these with low ebi .1-.3, looking for distributors who will let me wait on a unit with specs I need. Would you recommend the ether lenses with these? They will fit. Also what are your thoughts on pvs 14/ether optics vs polycarbonate?
This is going to be difficult to impossible at this time. BNVD1531s are back ordered so as soon as units come in from L3H they are going back out. So there won’t be any inventory to select a set with matching tubes that you’re looking for. Your best option is a in-house assembled device that you can request specs on.
I like the Ops-Core FAST SF helmets (Carbon Composite or ballistic). They have what’s called an MBS (Modular Bungee Shroud). The bungees are built into the helmet shroud and they have mini carabiners that are gated and include split rings. The split rings go on the 1531’s bridge and the bungees connect to them. This serves two functions 1) bungee tension and 2) lanyard. Wilcox G24 for the helmet mount.
How big of a difference is there between a low 30’s SNR unfilmed tube with a 64 lpmm vs one with a low or mid 30’s SNR and a 72 lpmm? Assuming solid EBI and PCR for both and halo being fixed as is with L3 systems. What is gained? Is the image just a little more clear or sharper? Better low light visibility or clarity? Getting hands on experience with different tubes when you’re the only person you know who’s interested in them becomes very expensive very quickly lol. Having someone to cut through the bull shit and tell you straight up what the difference is between the lower and higher spec unfilmed systems from L3 would be very useful.
Yeah it does get expensive doing it that way. I've been there done that, lol. The answer sounds vague but it honestly depends on the tubes. The 64 lp/mm measurement on the sheet may not mean it's actually 64. Anything between 64-71 is called 64 and anything 72-80 is called 72. So depending on what the actual lp/mm is they could look the same or you may see a difference. Your vision plays a role also. A true 64 vs a true 72, the 72 will have sharper details, such as more detail in rocks, grass, etc. things like that where resolution matters. My best explanation of resolution is it relates to how well a tube can see stuff that's close together.
Accidentally hit reply before finishing. For this reason a lot of people can't tell a difference. Lighting conditions also play a role because at a certain level of darkness the resolution is affected.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION it would be interesting to see how many of L3’s 64 lp/mm tubes are closer to 72 than 64. They are so good at consistency I wouldn’t be surprised if most were just under 72 rather than just over 64. I opted for a lower FOM 64lpmm tube because it had higher SNR and lower EBI than the higher FOM 72lpmm tube. It would just make the cut as a 2376 tube if it were 72lpmm. Not to mention it was more than a grand less expensive than a 2376 tube. Part of me is curious what a super high spec tube would be like. But I think I’ll stick with the 18ua or whatever they’re called tubes. It blows me away how detailed things are in low light and how well-enough it sees in near cave like conditions. I’ll probably never buy a thin filmed tube, but I’ll probably never spurge on a “high spec” unfilmed tube either from the sounds of things. Unless maybe I was promised over 40snr, a spot free image, and near zero EBI lol
Biggest difference is the 1531 is a full Mil-Spec system that is factory made by L3Harris and also used by certain DoD organizations plus LE. The 1431 is basically a knockoff of the PVS-31A. The 31A is also made by L3H and is an issued SOCOM goggle.
That’s correct. 1 year from L3H. It’s an L3Harris finished good and that’s what they offer. TNVC builds are different because everything is sourced and handled in-house.
On these units that have the on/off feature… does power cycling the tubes hurt them in any way? Seems like turning them off and on in rapid succession would not be good for them
By looks only. It’s an overseas made replica metal housing and using inferior optics compared to the actual L3Harris devices or other devices using MILSPEC optics. Also, they typically have lower quality image tubes inside
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks for the insight. I’m learning now all about night vision I can. I want to spend my money wisely and not over pay for something that’s mimicking the good ones. Last question then, I like the PVS-14 but rather have binos as my first set. So I see PVS-15, PVS31, and DTNVG but again who makes the right ones? I see on optics planet that ATN makes them then there’s AWG? I confused a bit. Do you have or know of a video explaining the difference?
Probably cheaper because of the cheaper glass. I wonder if the 1531’s has the same proprietary tubes that the 31A’s have and if they have the built in flash bang protection in the housing?
When I called a month or so back and talked to someone at TNVC, I was told the 1531 has auto off for both stow and pivot (articulate/chicken wing). But you state differently somewhere in the comments here. Can you confirm or deny? Thanks.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Well dang it. I really had my heart set on these until I found that out. I would consider the chicken wing auto shut off a pretty important feature for me. Thank you very much for the quick reply and for clearing that up for me.
@@sneektip79 it’s not super critical tbh. It’s a nice feature but the 1531s are very nice housings. The benefit of manual gain over the chicken wing Auto shut off of the DTNVSs makes the 1531 a no brainer for me.
I personally don’t think so however some feel the 31 glass is better. What can lead to some to feel this way are the fixed diopters. If your eyesight is good and works with them, you’re pretty much guaranteed a good focus. As long as you set the objective lenses correctly of course
They came in the EOG pouches I have. You can substitute the lead decoy weights that come in strips. Just tape them up and stick Velcro hook on them. Otherwise, you’ll need to buy a counterweight pouch that comes with weights. The EOGs are the cheapest if all you want are the weights.
Is the on board illuminator automatic or are they powered on by the end user? Would you get these or the new supergain version of them ? Would you go with the pvs31s?
I run DTNVS mostly now a days and a TNVc Mohawk gen 1 and I never run counter weights, if I add a single weight it feels funny and if my nods aren’t mounted it drags the helmet to the back of my head. I do keep battery’s in my Mohawk. I have 31As too and same thing no weights. Years ago I had pvs15s and I did run Eog pouch with some home made weights and a few years ago I bought a second pvs14 so I could bridge them so my kids could have something to use and those bitches definitely needed weights. I know nite walker is a fan of bridged 14s but I hate them. I hate them with a passion. But when I decided to buy another 14 to bridge there weren’t any duals on the market like there is today that are $5,000 for gen 3 high spec clean dual tubes like there is today. Duals back then you we’re definitely paying $7,000 to $16,000. You could get 31s back then but they were $17,000. So thank for NV is becoming popular, prices are better, innovation is booming, new nods every year for like 5 years now. I love seeing the market like this in night vision. It’s always been such a small nitch community that no one talked about but now it’s popular and that’s awesome
![ค้างคืนโรงเก็บกระสวยอวกาศร้างกลางทะเลทราย [Around The World Ep. 3]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E5bWZQhABJE/mqdefault.jpg)
This channel has a talent for explaining complicated things in a simple way. As a new nv shopper, I appreciate this.
@@davidkim9898 🤙🏼
Had these since December. So far so good. They look bigger than they really are.
Hopefully they’ll get more popular. It’s a great goggle 👍
Love mine, they are tiny a super light
One of the best videos I've seen
Thank you 🙏🏼
Thanks I was confused about this housing
God damn night vision is so cool
This compared to the dtnvs is a tough decision.
Manual gain does a lot of appeal after running the dtnvs for a while.
@@jeremiahburton901 I like to tun gain down as well.
Does the 1531 use the same glass that is used in L3 Pvs-31a’s? And do they auto shut off if you articulate them to the sides? I heard the pvs-31a don’t auto shut off when articulating?
@@Josh-wv3mn They don't. 31-A and 1531 both stay illuminated until the device is lifted on the mount.
The BNVD 1531 can't use an ECOTI, while a DTNVS can. Do what you will with that information.
Just sold a PVS31D from a contract that's not even out yet with stupid numbers/specs, and got this housing with another set of tubes I'm paying a 3 oz higher penalty, but the perks far outweigh the cons!
i have a question about the objective focus and diopter. if i don't have a clear image when using bnvd 1513. which one should i adjust first?
The best technique is to focus each pod at a time. Don't close your eyes just swing the pod up so for example start with your dominant eye and move the other pod up.
Begin with the front objective lens and focus for your viewing distance. If you're outside, focus it for infinity distance by looking at a star, and if you can't see any then whatever is the furthest away for instance a mountain. Get into focus. Then adjust the diopter focus (the lens near your eye). You may need to go back to the front objective lens and tweak it.
When done, move that pod up, and repeat with the other pod/eye. When done bring them both together so you're looking through both. You may need to tweak the diopters slightly.
Great info well delivered thanks
Excellent video. Thank you.
Do the pvs14 monocular lense assemblies fit the PVS15 housings?
They do not. The -15 is different
How do you like these compared to DTNVS?
I like it a lot but they're both great goggles. They feel very similar on the helmet since they are very close in weight.
Greetings from Europe. Just discovered your chanel. Great content ! Keep making amazing videos in future.
Thanks 👍
Been waiting for this 🙌
👍
Does the 1531 use the same “proprietary glass” as the 31A and GPNVG?
No. It uses basically PVS-14 optics
What kind of mounting options are available for cotis/Jerry's? They dont mount well out the box😢
Optics 1 who makes the AN/PAS-29B aka ECOTI and also the new for 2024 TAD, makes a bracket for the BNVD-1531. This bracket is not compatible with the Chinese Jerry clone
@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks for the quick reply. So no sub 5k$ platforms for them yet? I originally tried the 29a and had lackluster results.
SO thankful I found this channel! Been confused as hell looking at everything, and these videos are perfect! Tons of detailed info!
Still have tons to sift through, but looking at DTNVS vs BNVD, can't quite tell the difference other than CR123 vs AA battery, and looks like the DTNVS will shut off while articulating, while the BNVD only shuts off when lifting the unit?
DTNVS has auto-gain, while BNVD has manual gain.
DTNVS has add on Inter-pupillary Deistance Stops, BNVD comes with them standard.
What else am I missing?
Also, SUPER dumb question regarding gain: if a unit has manual gain like these BNVD's, that means the user HAS to adjust it themselves all the time, depending on lighting conditions, correct? Meaning, it absolutely does not auto gain at all? Or will they "auto-gain" so to speak, but the user is still able to manually adjust gain when they want?
Thanks to anyone who replies. This shit is confusing. Lol
Thanks, I sincerely appreciate it. “Auto gain” is really not the best description. The difference between the types of tubes is that the DTNVS uses 10160 format tubes which have their maximum gain/brightness fixed. The BNVD1531 uses a 11769 format that allows for the maximum gain/brightness to be adjusted.
Both tube formats actually do what people refer to as “autogain” which is the tube dims down based on the ambient lighting brightness level. This function is called ABC (automatic brightness control).
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Ahh ok, that certainly clarifies things for me. Thank you so much for the response! Keep up the GREAT work 💪🏼
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Do the BNVD-1531s shut off when articulated, or only when stowed?
Thanks for all the info 💪🏼
@@thesickening0169 they do not shut off when articulated. Only when stowed.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Damn, ok gotcha. Thanks man. Last question about these and I'll stop bothering you: Only a 1 year warranty on these, which is from L3 (meaning they'd have to be sent back to L3 for repairs)? No 10 year from TNVC?
Weird question, but do you know of anyone who’s ran RPO lightweight objectives and/or DEP ether eyepieces on the BNVD-1531? I know a lot of people would say “just buy 31’s”, but I prefer having adjustable diopters due to my eyes, therefore debating buying 1531’s, and slowly upgrading them over a longer period of time to have lighter eyepieces/objectives while keeping the factory glass for replacement parts in case I damage something.
I don’t know of anyone who’s done it. I personally don’t feel that the 1531s feel heavy but shaving weight is always nice. We do carry RPO, although they’re not listed on the site.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION just got a set, so maybe I might throw some lightweight RPO glass in them. Haha.
@@WheelchairOperator nice! 🤘🏼
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION you think I should do a video on my newest/current helmet setup (1531’s, FAST SF Carbon, AMPs, etc)? 🤔
@@WheelchairOperator Hell yeah, do it! 1531’s are great goggles. I don’t know of anyone who’s swapped them out. The weight savings would be nice 😎
I just snagged a new FAST SF Carbon worm. Awesome lid!! I’m still keeping my old FAST Carbon for one of my set ups but the new one is my favorite.
If I not mistaken the 31 coti clip should work the 1531 also, that way you dont have to move the coti while adjusting focus
If you look at the different housings you’ll see that you can only mount it on the lens on the 1531. There’s no where else to mount it. The housing is too thick
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION do you think the Ecoti is worth it? I have the ecoti and am waiting on my 1531’s to arrive. Made the mistake of buying from licentia arms and they wont even tell you when to expect the items. Found them cheaper too.
@@ballinonabudget1130 It honestly depends on what you expect it to do. It’s a great way have thermal detection capability and depending on the object recognition. It’s a fully Mil-Spec device so it’s durability is exceptional.
Licentia is a good outfit and an official L3 reseller. L3 can have long lead times. I’m sure if you contact them they can give you an ETA
I am trying to grt one of these with low ebi .1-.3, looking for distributors who will let me wait on a unit with specs I need. Would you recommend the ether lenses with these? They will fit.
Also what are your thoughts on pvs 14/ether optics vs polycarbonate?
This is going to be difficult to impossible at this time. BNVD1531s are back ordered so as soon as units come in from L3H they are going back out. So there won’t be any inventory to select a set with matching tubes that you’re looking for.
Your best option is a in-house assembled device that you can request specs on.
Kosher surplus sells in stock items only so they post the spec sheets. Costs a little more but you know exactly what you are getting
do you need a counter weight with a pvs14?
Generally yes. Depends on the helmet setup but most add some weight
What are good helmet and mount solutions for the 1531?
I like the Ops-Core FAST SF helmets (Carbon Composite or ballistic). They have what’s called an MBS (Modular Bungee Shroud). The bungees are built into the helmet shroud and they have mini carabiners that are gated and include split rings. The split rings go on the 1531’s bridge and the bungees connect to them. This serves two functions 1) bungee tension and 2) lanyard.
Wilcox G24 for the helmet mount.
Once you adjust the diopter is there a way to lock them in place at all? Thank you.
No but the diopter stays put so no need for that.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION understood, thank you!
Will you do a comparison vid between this, the bnvd-sg, and the dtnvg's?
BNVD-SG is the way to go
How big of a difference is there between a low 30’s SNR unfilmed tube with a 64 lpmm vs one with a low or mid 30’s SNR and a 72 lpmm? Assuming solid EBI and PCR for both and halo being fixed as is with L3 systems. What is gained? Is the image just a little more clear or sharper? Better low light visibility or clarity? Getting hands on experience with different tubes when you’re the only person you know who’s interested in them becomes very expensive very quickly lol. Having someone to cut through the bull shit and tell you straight up what the difference is between the lower and higher spec unfilmed systems from L3 would be very useful.
Yeah it does get expensive doing it that way. I've been there done that, lol.
The answer sounds vague but it honestly depends on the tubes. The 64 lp/mm measurement on the sheet may not mean it's actually 64. Anything between 64-71 is called 64 and anything 72-80 is called 72. So depending on what the actual lp/mm is they could look the same or you may see a difference. Your vision plays a role also.
A true 64 vs a true 72, the 72 will have sharper details, such as more detail in rocks, grass, etc. things like that where resolution matters. My best explanation of resolution is it relates to how well a tube can see stuff that's close together.
Accidentally hit reply before finishing.
For this reason a lot of people can't tell a difference. Lighting conditions also play a role because at a certain level of darkness the resolution is affected.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION it would be interesting to see how many of L3’s 64 lp/mm tubes are closer to 72 than 64. They are so good at consistency I wouldn’t be surprised if most were just under 72 rather than just over 64. I opted for a lower FOM 64lpmm tube because it had higher SNR and lower EBI than the higher FOM 72lpmm tube. It would just make the cut as a 2376 tube if it were 72lpmm. Not to mention it was more than a grand less expensive than a 2376 tube.
Part of me is curious what a super high spec tube would be like. But I think I’ll stick with the 18ua or whatever they’re called tubes. It blows me away how detailed things are in low light and how well-enough it sees in near cave like conditions. I’ll probably never buy a thin filmed tube, but I’ll probably never spurge on a “high spec” unfilmed tube either from the sounds of things. Unless maybe I was promised over 40snr, a spot free image, and near zero EBI lol
Really cool video
What tubes are in here? Are they proprietary?
They are L3Harris unfilmed WP and the most common version is with 2376+ FOM tubes.
You like these better than the PVS-31A?
I personally like the 31A better. But the 1531 is probably better for most folks because of the adjustable diopters. Plus it’s not as expensive
What's the difference between the 1431 and 1531?
Biggest difference is the 1531 is a full Mil-Spec system that is factory made by L3Harris and also used by certain DoD organizations plus LE. The 1431 is basically a knockoff of the PVS-31A. The 31A is also made by L3H and is an issued SOCOM goggle.
Am I reading the website correctly, these BNVD-1531s only come with a 1 year warranty from L3? No 10 year warranty from TNVC?
That’s correct. 1 year from L3H. It’s an L3Harris finished good and that’s what they offer. TNVC builds are different because everything is sourced and handled in-house.
On these units that have the on/off feature… does power cycling the tubes hurt them in any way? Seems like turning them off and on in rapid succession would not be good for them
No it’s not an issue
How do you turn off/on the auto off stow function?
5 short presses. The indicator light in the eyepiece will flash to confirm
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION THANKYOU!
Could you get a ENVG-B? Was on the wiki and saw that’s what they are using right now.
Hololens
Are the ATN PS31 similar to these? Forgive my ignorance I’m a noob
By looks only. It’s an overseas made replica metal housing and using inferior optics compared to the actual L3Harris devices or other devices using MILSPEC optics. Also, they typically have lower quality image tubes inside
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks for the insight. I’m learning now all about night vision I can. I want to spend my money wisely and not over pay for something that’s mimicking the good ones.
Last question then, I like the PVS-14 but rather have binos as my first set. So I see PVS-15, PVS31, and DTNVG but again who makes the right ones? I see on optics planet that ATN makes them then there’s AWG? I confused a bit. Do you have or know of a video explaining the difference?
Probably cheaper because of the cheaper glass. I wonder if the 1531’s has the same proprietary tubes that the 31A’s have and if they have the built in flash bang protection in the housing?
Wonder the same about the tubes, the housing around what would be the tubes looks alot more bigger versus the 31's
Same tubes same protection 😎
When I called a month or so back and talked to someone at TNVC, I was told the 1531 has auto off for both stow and pivot (articulate/chicken wing). But you state differently somewhere in the comments here. Can you confirm or deny? Thanks.
It has programmable auto-stow. It DOES NOT have individual POD shutoff. Same as the PVS-31.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION Well dang it. I really had my heart set on these until I found that out. I would consider the chicken wing auto shut off a pretty important feature for me. Thank you very much for the quick reply and for clearing that up for me.
@@sneektip79 it’s not super critical tbh. It’s a nice feature but the 1531s are very nice housings. The benefit of manual gain over the chicken wing Auto shut off of the DTNVSs makes the 1531 a no brainer for me.
Is there a big difference in glass clarity between the 1531 and the 31A?
I personally don’t think so however some feel the 31 glass is better. What can lead to some to feel this way are the fixed diopters. If your eyesight is good and works with them, you’re pretty much guaranteed a good focus. As long as you set the objective lenses correctly of course
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thank you for the response, 1531’s it is!
Where did you get those counter weights?
They came in the EOG pouches I have. You can substitute the lead decoy weights that come in strips. Just tape them up and stick Velcro hook on them. Otherwise, you’ll need to buy a counterweight pouch that comes with weights. The EOGs are the cheapest if all you want are the weights.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION ok thanks, going to have a look at those for my incoming 1531.
A better option is the BNVD-SG in my opinion
@j c Why do you say that, out of curiosity? Whats your take?
Maybe a dumb question but I'm new to night vision. Why don't you keep lens covers on the goggles?
I leave them off for the video. Battery is removed so they’re “safe”. Otherwise, I do always leave the lens caps on.
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks for the info 👍
Are they gooder than the dtnvs
IMHO yes. It has more features than the DTNVS and isn’t much more expensive. TNVC now offers a 5 year warranty on the 1531 as well
Is the on board illuminator automatic or are they powered on by the end user? Would you get these or the new supergain version of them ? Would you go with the pvs31s?
The illuminator is not automatic. It is manually activated by double tapping the power button to turn on / off.
I found where all the nerds hangout.
what helmet is that?
Ops-Core FAST Carbon
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION thanks!!!
@@hahtsauce 🤙
I run DTNVS mostly now a days and a TNVc Mohawk gen 1 and I never run counter weights, if I add a single weight it feels funny and if my nods aren’t mounted it drags the helmet to the back of my head. I do keep battery’s in my Mohawk. I have 31As too and same thing no weights. Years ago I had pvs15s and I did run Eog pouch with some home made weights and a few years ago I bought a second pvs14 so I could bridge them so my kids could have something to use and those bitches definitely needed weights. I know nite walker is a fan of bridged 14s but I hate them. I hate them with a passion. But when I decided to buy another 14 to bridge there weren’t any duals on the market like there is today that are $5,000 for gen 3 high spec clean dual tubes like there is today. Duals back then you we’re definitely paying $7,000 to $16,000. You could get 31s back then but they were $17,000. So thank for NV is becoming popular, prices are better, innovation is booming, new nods every year for like 5 years now. I love seeing the market like this in night vision. It’s always been such a small nitch community that no one talked about but now it’s popular and that’s awesome
Just don’t buy from licentia arms. All is good with them unless something goes wrong. They wont help if anything happens
What went wrong? Can you provide more detail please?
My comment disappeared:(
I still see it?
@@NITEWALKER-NIGHTVISION it’s come back for me ahah
Yeah... because the everyday bloke can afford 11k+ nods.....this video makes sense
No reason to be a hater. The high end night vision and thermal market has been booming for the last 2 years 🤷♂️
Can you please stop saying alpha ...