Designing for Dinghies, Ep. 2 : Building the Keel, Stem, Transom Knee and Transom
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 พ.ค. 2020
- In this video I continue to build a clinker 14' Aber Dinghy designed by François Vivier. Once complete, I intend to use this dinghy as a test platform for the design and development of products and equipment for dinghy camp cruising.
The easiest build in the 50's to 70's was the 8' Sabot sailing dingy and it still is!
Better video than the First. Nice. Thanks
Exciting! This inspires me to design and sail dinghies.
Me too, I will be doing some sailing soon ;)
Finast kind! The great thing about traditional small craft is you can build them with a few power tools and a few hand tools, also no epoxies and lots of fiberglass... nasty stuff.
If you end up interested in small boat design be sure to get John Gardner's the Dory Book from your local library. 👍
One of the best videos on a’ build there is.
Thanks!
It is very interesting to see how this build compares to my Ilur. Considering they are ostensibly the same, just a different size, the construction guide should be the same, but I have seen one or two differences that are far easier to understand in this vid. For example: the ply transom construction is a very good idea, not gone into in my guide ( I have made a solid mahogany one, because I had the wood any way ), and it is not easy to find 10mm ply. I think as well that I will have to add bracing to the station moulds as you have to help firm things up; not shown on my construction drawings. All of that side of things is on hold for now because of the lockdown. Very nice catch up,keep well. PS, that was the other thing: The sculling notch is recommended to be on the port side, I think it makes more sense for a right handed person to be on the starboard side, and on most boats I see it is so.
Hi Dale, I'm sure your mahogany transom will be beautiful. Wish I had the material for something like that, but I needed to keep things as straight forward as possible on this build. I've never had a boat with a sculling notch before, but I do think I'll prefer it on the starboard side. Our construction frame was definitely a bit wobbly even with all the bracing. As long as each section mold stays at 90 degrees to the keel, I don't think a bit of wiggling will impact the accuracy of the build too much. I guess we'll know for sure when we get to take it off the mold. Cheers!
@@designingfordinghies5427 I was lucky to have just enough mahogany. I feel quite lucky to have you break some of the ground for me, ha, ha. I have a bit of an obsession about the tolerances in a build. Offsets are down to 1/6, which is about 1.5mm, so some wriggle room. When you see what Leo pulled off of Tally Ho, it looks rough as anything, but when you see how he is re building her the joinery is faultless and the roughness was down to the rot.
Where did your reference marks on the transom come from to enable to to accurately plane the bevels, and where did your bevel angle come from?
The CNC pattern had two marine plywood pieces that get laminated together to make the transom the correct thickness. Cleverly, one of the pieces was slightly smaller than the other. The result is that when they are centered and glued together, the bevel is already roughed out, and all that needed to happen was beveling off the 'stair step' along the edge.