Thank you for your comment. Sorry for my late reply, I think you are correct and I have experienced being the antenna on a few other circuits I have. I’m still not sure if this is a good thing for one’s health, especially on some of the higher voltage stuff. Anyway, whilst I’m still curious and as long as I don’t notice I’ll effects I will continue playing. Merry Christmas
Thank you for your comment. Sorry for my delayed reply. The ZVS is a Zero Volt Switching unit, this takes a DC power and flips it back and forth to create a simulated AC signal. The amount of lights your able to connect to this depends on the size of ZVS, the unit I’m using is only a baby 100 watt unit but will easily power a 500 watt halogen bulb. With the induction cooker, also a ZVS, I have powered 2.2 kilowatts of lights with only 1000 watts going into the induction cooker from the mains. Tesla stated that the pancake coil increases power in a capacitive effect, it’s hard to argue when you see the results.
Thank you for your comment. Sorry for my delayed response. Damned if you do damned if you don't it would seem. I figure if I say it isn't demonstrating OU then nobody can tell me what I already know! Thank you for watching.
Thank you for your comment. I don’t believe I have measured the output current on this setup, instead relying on a desired outcome, ie a certain sized load as a target. I built this years ago, when I dragged it out for this video the element had that dust burning smell of a heater not used for a long time. I will get the circuit out and attempt to measure it, however it is my experience that current is difficult to measure in high frequency circuits. On my replication of Tesla’s through earth transmission the current to the light reads 0.00 which is clearly wrong because I can see the light operating. I assume it is the meters inability to measure current at high frequency and better equipment may assist, I don’t feel it necessary to buy expensive equipment to measure as long as my desired effect is achieved, physical outcomes, if it’s not what I want I keep working on it, in this case the outcome was a brightness level measured with a lux meter to be comparable to a grid fed power and in this case I need not know exactly how it works as long as it works but I’m interested to know if it can be measured now with what I have and I will let you know.
@@whatifididthis...1236 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I am building a solid state device and will be facing a similar problem. I am thinking of storing input energy in some super capacitors and feeding the circuit with a buck converter. That will make it easy at least to measure the input energy, not the power. On the output, I will store whatever is coming out in another supercapacitor bank and I will measure the energy at the end of the experiment. The impulses that will charge the output will look like a comb on the oscilloscope so definitely I agree it will be hard to measure. I am thinking running the experiment with the supercaps for a given period of time and then measuring the average power on the input and on the output that way
@@brotherLar I believe you are correct, the only way to measure these high frequency circuits output is to store the energy in capacitors and then measure over time for charge and discharge. The output frequency is easy manipulated by capacitors, the oscilloscope shots are very different when adding caps. I only have a basic handheld oscilloscope but I will attempt a short video showing with and without a capacitor.
Thank you for your comment. The wire is wrapped around a ferrite rod, one direction is clockwise and at the half way point it becomes anti clockwise. I am just performing different experiments with this wiring as claims had been made many many years ago that this can cancel out the magnetic flux when wound in the opposite direction. I will be honest, I have not done enough testing to confirm a benefit.
@emichael06 I can’t remember to be honest it was a long time ago, it would have been one of the popular online selling platforms. The one in the video is 8mm diameter and 100mm in length but just about any ferrous material will work, it will be different but it will work. If you can’t find what you need you can make your own by placing iron filings or iron powder and resin in a plastic tube. An ultrasonic cleaner can help to settle the iron powder using high frequency vibration whilst you add more to the tube until truly packed.
Thanks for watching. The batteries alone are not capable of operating either the light or heating unit by themselves. The gain I have not bothered to calculate and instead was aiming at a particular voltage under load. Initially I had only the two black and red bifilar coils and to increase voltage I added three series coils.
Thank you for your comment. I prefer learning as I go and only when relevant. You don't need to know how the internal combustion engine works but how to drive it to get your bread and milk. Most of the things I build are because of what level of necessity I place on it. If I can achieve the goal using an easier method I will, assuming it's not a lot more expensive. Every now and then I do a deep dive on a subject but it has to be intriguing. Again, combustion engine. I'm assuming you haven't seen some of my other videos as these experiments don't occur without reading the profound concepts. I care not what the experts say and I build a device and experiment with it for as long as it takes me to get the answers I want. My videos are a record of what happens in this reality and may not always conform to the "reality" that is our education, that in no way denies our reality as reality supersedes education.
@@whatifididthis...1236 It is always good to know the theory behind what you are doing. A scope is useful for testing, it can tell you more than a multimeter. Multimeter do not work well with high frequencies. A true RMS type is needed to accurately measure odd waveforms. Anyways what you are doing works for you. Good luck in your endevours.
@@gordonwelcher9598 When I first started my research I was very time poor and financially poor, everything had to be built from scratch and made from things that were not necessarily intended to be used that way. I couldn’t afford nice meters and decided that meters weren’t anything more than a means of fine tuning shortcuts. They help you optimise a circuit in a shorter period of time. I do own some good electrical equipment but I rarely use it, I told myself not owning such equipment was why I wasn’t getting the results I wanted, once I had the equipment I knew I was doing the right thing but just needed to have continued when I started doubting myself. I don’t like using my equipment in my videos because it screams “too technical” to the average viewer that just wants a light. Once I have my circuit running and optimised I would no longer need a meter, plus manually tuning a circuit gives me a better understanding of changes that may occur because I have usually passed through most of those frequencies along the way to resonance. Having this equipment would be akin to having a dynotune machine for your car, just like the mechanic has and attaching it to your car everyday to check it was optimal compared to paying attention to your vehicle, being conscious of the sounds it makes compared to the sounds it used to make. I play guitar and tune by ear so everything boils down to frequencies for me, pay attention to the frequency and everything will find it’s own harmony. Some of my circuits I only find out the frequency for when somebody asks me what it is and I have to then go check it, sure you could calculate it but in my experience there are too many unexplained anomalies to rely on calculations, the books say one thing and I am looking at something different which is somewhat like having a teenager tell you that you don’t understand the world you’ve lived in for over half a century.
You need to know how many lumens the light bulb in particular puts out, and an actual measurement of lumens to use a light bulb as any meaningful comparison. Measuring current and voltage across a load is more meaningful. Having two watt meters would be a better setup, one at the batteries to show how much is being drawn, another at the load to see how much is being supplied. Both the heater and the light bulb are completely subjective without such. Something you need to remember is that energy is not energy. One watt (1 volt at 1 amp) of stored energy dumped over an hour will give one watt of energy output. However, 1 watt of stored energy could cause an explosion that would remove your hand if you dump it all in a fraction of a microsecond. What something can do, or effective power, depends upon how much energy is dumped over how long of a period of time.
Thank you for your comment. I completely agree with you that measuring lumens with the naked eye is practically useless as you end up doing damage to your eyes in the first place thus rendering your eyes useless tools of measurement. Spending so much time playing with hundreds of different lights with different circuits I realised I was seeing spots even when my eyes were closed so I purchased a Lumens meter. Shortly after purchasing the meter I realised it was only necessary if you felt the need to prove to someone it was as bright as when operated on the grid, I have nobody to impress so I work only in real physical outcomes. I have found that measurements on the output are not that reliable with the cheap meters I own due to high frequency, usually displaying what is obviously incorrect or displaying nothing at all, seeing a meter read zero watts whilst burning a 500 watt light led me to believe it is not that practical nor necessary to measure as long as I get my desired product. This high frequency energy is very different and converts a massive portion into the infra red wave lengths which is expressed as heat, a lot more heat than when run on conventional electrical means. I might add, temperature wasn’t measured by holding my hand nearby but by using a digital contact thermometer as well as a digital laser thermometer.
@@whatifididthis...1236 I understand, but a lot of those electric heaters are lossy as heck, so measuring the amount of heat at a point may well miss the majority of heat being given off. Reminds me of one experiment where a person heats up a beaker containing a fluid using a bunsen burner to measure efficiency. The problem in that case is most of the energy is wasted to the environment. In electrical circuits I have seen the same thing, numerous forms of converted waste energy making the circuit extremely lossy.
You're making a mistake by using a three connection ZVS because that only energizes one pole at a time. It energizes one output pole, then 1/2 cycle later, energizes the other pole. Tesla bifilar coils were not meant to be energized like this. Tesla bifilar coils lower self inductance (reduce drag) (reduce Lenze reaction) by allowing n the capacitance in the coil to counteract the self inductance. The capacitance in a bifilar coil occurs when the electrons flowing in one coil are attracted to the electrons flowing in the other coil through the insulation, causing a massive increase in capacitance, which makes the magic happen. You need to disconnect that center pole of the ZVS, but then you probably will get no current flow because the three pole ZVS wasn't meant to be used like that. SO you really need a TWO pole ZED. You will see a significant increase in COP.
Thank you for your comment. My apologies for my delayed response. I had originally purchased two of each type of ZVS, 3 pole and 2 pole because I was curious as to which one would best suit this setup. In my tests I found the more efficient unit to be the 3 pole. There may be loads for which this is not the case however using a 70 watt halogen bulb the 3 pole ZVS operates the light using only 18.7 watts and the 2 pole ZVS consumes 20.3 watts, still very efficient and at the same brightness but still less efficient.
Thank you for reminding me of the Dumas effect, I was supposed to test this concept, initially I thought of testing it with my “portable through earth unit” but I imagine this unit would also be a good test subject. I will write this one down now and thank you again.
Very very good video and explanation. Well done on Tesla education. Have you tried Master Ivo latest earth currents? You are very close to that setup. ;)
Thank you for watching and your comment. I got half way through Master Ivo’s latest video and was pulled back to reality for some mundane household chore! Thanks for reminding me, I will finish his video and then respond to you. :)
Brilliant idea, I was trying to make a setup for heating … you just got it ahead of me. Great work 👍🏼 By the way have you tried to use Tesla switch batteries with this setup ?
Thanks for watching. I have tested this setup with the basic Tesla Switch battery arrangement and it works just fine. I said I was going to make this video a year ago and it was mostly laziness that prevented it from happening, at least it is done now. I would like to make this into a portable, backpack style unit as a “bug out, prepper power unit”, perhaps on a plastic chopping board with terminals attached to the board allowing you a quick pack up to get ahead of the next zombie wave! 🤣
@@whatifididthis...1236 Will you please share the exact tesla switch diagram you built from? There are more than one out there and the others do seem to kill batteries instead of working right. God bless and be well!
Teslas example uses 1000 turns pancake. He states it is "advantageous " that your coil be 36" diameter minimum. Even his healing circuit use 36" diameter wooden hoops with 20 guage wire wrapped around the outside. His words are gospel in my opinion. So when he says something is important and I listen.
Thank you for your comment. Couldn’t agree more, if there is even the slightest deviation from his original design then you have created something else. The problem here is researching Tesla’s discoveries without the drip feed from one of the world’s richest men. A lot of the time I build my version of Tesla’s work from what scrap I have as opposed to specifically buying something, all the while keeping in mind that this isn’t the same and with the intention of making the same if it’s feasible and based on results from my version. Most of the time I’m guided by my desired outcome over replication, ie. I want a particular light to operate at it’s most efficient rate I will take the Tesla concept and tailor it to my needs, if I can achieve it without the extras then all the better. Again I will highlight the importance of your statement, when he says something is important, I listen.
@@whatifididthis...1236cool videos thanks for uploading..checkout Ivo’s new video this week it’s about focusing more on the electrostatic, negating the mag field. There’s an 8 year old Video on Yt from an Indian guy how to make a Scalar wave, also the 1901 Tesla lecture that Ivo cites is useful as well. No one knows how this stuff works for the most part..even the people in the comments telling you you’re making mistakes lol
Thank you for your comment. I saw Ivo’s video, very interesting, I will say the different forms of electricity are very interesting. I’m editing a video I recorded last week that demonstrates the differences with and without the ferrite core, the dielectric has always seemed more volatile to me, put it this way, I’ve blown more stuff up that way. I will check out the video you mentioned, always keen to learn. One thing I’ve learned over 20+ years of experimenting, everyone’s an expert. Thank you for watching.
Thank you for your comment. I'm not making any statements about anything you may have seen or heard. I imagine you have heard of a neon sign transformer. Let's crunch the numbers of a random transformer, one of many available for sale and attainable right now. Input 120VAC X 2.36Amps = 283.2 Watts. Output 12000VDC X 0.042Amps = 504 Watts. Sometimes it is more important to understand than it is to understand why.
@@whatifididthis...1236 Yeah I think you're confusing nominal ratings, like your 72 watt light bulb, which will light with much less, with actual measured power. With unusual AC waveforms it's particularly difficult, a multimeter can't do it, you'd really need a scope with some smarts in it that can calculate that. If it's just ordinary sine-wave mains power, you can just use RMS. In that case you can simply measure the volts and amps. This transformer you mention, what is it? How did you measure it? Transformers are extremely well understood, it is much more likely that you have made a mistake, than what is.
@@greenaum I'm not too interested in the particulars of a circuit, instead I focus on how I can make it and use it to my advantage. My main focus is whether it's affordable both financially and electrically and whether there's a benefit or can the goal be achieved in easier ways. The transformer I mentioned is a "neon sign transformer", they have been around forever, this is what Don Smith mentioned in every video he was ever in. Just type that into a search engine and search images, you will find thousands of commercially available neon sign transformers. The majority, if not all of them will have similar properties.
@@whatifididthis...1236 They don't produce more energy than you put in. No object in existence has that property, in the known universe. You're misunderstanding what a transformer does. The particulars are where you're going wrong.
Classic signs of "Resonances " or Cold - Electricity.!! You become the In Antonia.
Thank you for your comment.
Sorry for my late reply, I think you are correct and I have experienced being the antenna on a few other circuits I have. I’m still not sure if this is a good thing for one’s health, especially on some of the higher voltage stuff. Anyway, whilst I’m still curious and as long as I don’t notice I’ll effects I will continue playing.
Merry Christmas
What is the zvs?
How many light bulbs could you connect?
Thank you for your comment.
Sorry for my delayed reply. The ZVS is a Zero Volt Switching unit, this takes a DC power and flips it back and forth to create a simulated AC signal. The amount of lights your able to connect to this depends on the size of ZVS, the unit I’m using is only a baby 100 watt unit but will easily power a 500 watt halogen bulb. With the induction cooker, also a ZVS, I have powered 2.2 kilowatts of lights with only 1000 watts going into the induction cooker from the mains. Tesla stated that the pancake coil increases power in a capacitive effect, it’s hard to argue when you see the results.
'this particular experiment isn't overunity' -every tesla & ou researcher
Thank you for your comment.
Sorry for my delayed response. Damned if you do damned if you don't it would seem. I figure if I say it isn't demonstrating OU then nobody can tell me what I already know!
Thank you for watching.
What is the power drawn ? I can see the output voltage, but what about the output current ?
Thank you for your comment. I don’t believe I have measured the output current on this setup, instead relying on a desired outcome, ie a certain sized load as a target. I built this years ago, when I dragged it out for this video the element had that dust burning smell of a heater not used for a long time. I will get the circuit out and attempt to measure it, however it is my experience that current is difficult to measure in high frequency circuits. On my replication of Tesla’s through earth transmission the current to the light reads 0.00 which is clearly wrong because I can see the light operating. I assume it is the meters inability to measure current at high frequency and better equipment may assist, I don’t feel it necessary to buy expensive equipment to measure as long as my desired effect is achieved, physical outcomes, if it’s not what I want I keep working on it, in this case the outcome was a brightness level measured with a lux meter to be comparable to a grid fed power and in this case I need not know exactly how it works as long as it works but I’m interested to know if it can be measured now with what I have and I will let you know.
@@whatifididthis...1236 Thank you for taking the time to reply. I am building a solid state device and will be facing a similar problem. I am thinking of storing input energy in some super capacitors and feeding the circuit with a buck converter. That will make it easy at least to measure the input energy, not the power. On the output, I will store whatever is coming out in another supercapacitor bank and I will measure the energy at the end of the experiment. The impulses that will charge the output will look like a comb on the oscilloscope so definitely I agree it will be hard to measure. I am thinking running the experiment with the supercaps for a given period of time and then measuring the average power on the input and on the output that way
@@brotherLar I believe you are correct, the only way to measure these high frequency circuits output is to store the energy in capacitors and then measure over time for charge and discharge. The output frequency is easy manipulated by capacitors, the oscilloscope shots are very different when adding caps. I only have a basic handheld oscilloscope but I will attempt a short video showing with and without a capacitor.
why do you wrap the pen with the red wire like that?
Thank you for your comment.
The wire is wrapped around a ferrite rod, one direction is clockwise and at the half way point it becomes anti clockwise. I am just performing different experiments with this wiring as claims had been made many many years ago that this can cancel out the magnetic flux when wound in the opposite direction.
I will be honest, I have not done enough testing to confirm a benefit.
@@whatifididthis...1236 where did you get the rod?
When looking for one, do you look for high permeability? I've heard that is key
@emichael06 I can’t remember to be honest it was a long time ago, it would have been one of the popular online selling platforms. The one in the video is 8mm diameter and 100mm in length but just about any ferrous material will work, it will be different but it will work. If you can’t find what you need you can make your own by placing iron filings or iron powder and resin in a plastic tube. An ultrasonic cleaner can help to settle the iron powder using high frequency vibration whilst you add more to the tube until truly packed.
nice job...what was the % gain on power from the system as opposed to just the batteries by themselves?..cheers
Thanks for watching. The batteries alone are not capable of operating either the light or heating unit by themselves. The gain I have not bothered to calculate and instead was aiming at a particular voltage under load. Initially I had only the two black and red bifilar coils and to increase voltage I added three series coils.
@@whatifididthis...1236 ahh ok i understand now..cool !!..thanks!
@@thebigfella9095 Thank you.
Study these profound concepts:
Peak, RMS, Power Factor, Reactance, Duty Cycle.
Thank you for your comment.
I prefer learning as I go and only when relevant. You don't need to know how the internal combustion engine works but how to drive it to get your bread and milk.
Most of the things I build are because of what level of necessity I place on it. If I can achieve the goal using an easier method I will, assuming it's not a lot more expensive.
Every now and then I do a deep dive on a subject but it has to be intriguing. Again, combustion engine.
I'm assuming you haven't seen some of my other videos as these experiments don't occur without reading the profound concepts.
I care not what the experts say and I build a device and experiment with it for as long as it takes me to get the answers I want. My videos are a record of what happens in this reality and may not always conform to the "reality" that is our education, that in no way denies our reality as reality supersedes education.
@@whatifididthis...1236 It is always good to know the theory behind what you are doing.
A scope is useful for testing, it can tell you more than a multimeter.
Multimeter do not work well with high frequencies. A true RMS type is needed to accurately measure odd waveforms.
Anyways what you are doing works for you. Good luck in your endevours.
@@gordonwelcher9598 When I first started my research I was very time poor and financially poor, everything had to be built from scratch and made from things that were not necessarily intended to be used that way. I couldn’t afford nice meters and decided that meters weren’t anything more than a means of fine tuning shortcuts. They help you optimise a circuit in a shorter period of time.
I do own some good electrical equipment but I rarely use it, I told myself not owning such equipment was why I wasn’t getting the results I wanted, once I had the equipment I knew I was doing the right thing but just needed to have continued when I started doubting myself. I don’t like using my equipment in my videos because it screams “too technical” to the average viewer that just wants a light. Once I have my circuit running and optimised I would no longer need a meter, plus manually tuning a circuit gives me a better understanding of changes that may occur because I have usually passed through most of those frequencies along the way to resonance. Having this equipment would be akin to having a dynotune machine for your car, just like the mechanic has and attaching it to your car everyday to check it was optimal compared to paying attention to your vehicle, being conscious of the sounds it makes compared to the sounds it used to make.
I play guitar and tune by ear so everything boils down to frequencies for me, pay attention to the frequency and everything will find it’s own harmony. Some of my circuits I only find out the frequency for when somebody asks me what it is and I have to then go check it, sure you could calculate it but in my experience there are too many unexplained anomalies to rely on calculations, the books say one thing and I am looking at something different which is somewhat like having a teenager tell you that you don’t understand the world you’ve lived in for over half a century.
You need to know how many lumens the light bulb in particular puts out, and an actual measurement of lumens to use a light bulb as any meaningful comparison. Measuring current and voltage across a load is more meaningful. Having two watt meters would be a better setup, one at the batteries to show how much is being drawn, another at the load to see how much is being supplied. Both the heater and the light bulb are completely subjective without such. Something you need to remember is that energy is not energy. One watt (1 volt at 1 amp) of stored energy dumped over an hour will give one watt of energy output. However, 1 watt of stored energy could cause an explosion that would remove your hand if you dump it all in a fraction of a microsecond. What something can do, or effective power, depends upon how much energy is dumped over how long of a period of time.
Thank you for your comment.
I completely agree with you that measuring lumens with the naked eye is practically useless as you end up doing damage to your eyes in the first place thus rendering your eyes useless tools of measurement. Spending so much time playing with hundreds of different lights with different circuits I realised I was seeing spots even when my eyes were closed so I purchased a Lumens meter. Shortly after purchasing the meter I realised it was only necessary if you felt the need to prove to someone it was as bright as when operated on the grid, I have nobody to impress so I work only in real physical outcomes.
I have found that measurements on the output are not that reliable with the cheap meters I own due to high frequency, usually displaying what is obviously incorrect or displaying nothing at all, seeing a meter read zero watts whilst burning a 500 watt light led me to believe it is not that practical nor necessary to measure as long as I get my desired product. This high frequency energy is very different and converts a massive portion into the infra red wave lengths which is expressed as heat, a lot more heat than when run on conventional electrical means. I might add, temperature wasn’t measured by holding my hand nearby but by using a digital contact thermometer as well as a digital laser thermometer.
@@whatifididthis...1236 I understand, but a lot of those electric heaters are lossy as heck, so measuring the amount of heat at a point may well miss the majority of heat being given off. Reminds me of one experiment where a person heats up a beaker containing a fluid using a bunsen burner to measure efficiency. The problem in that case is most of the energy is wasted to the environment. In electrical circuits I have seen the same thing, numerous forms of converted waste energy making the circuit extremely lossy.
sweet experimenting
Thank you for watching.
You're making a mistake by using a three connection ZVS because that only energizes one pole at a time. It energizes one output pole, then 1/2 cycle later, energizes the other pole. Tesla bifilar coils were not meant to be energized like this. Tesla bifilar coils lower self inductance (reduce drag) (reduce Lenze reaction) by allowing n the capacitance in the coil to counteract the self inductance. The capacitance in a bifilar coil occurs when the electrons flowing in one coil are attracted to the electrons flowing in the other coil through the insulation, causing a massive increase in capacitance, which makes the magic happen. You need to disconnect that center pole of the ZVS, but then you probably will get no current flow because the three pole ZVS wasn't meant to be used like that. SO you really need a TWO pole ZED. You will see a significant increase in COP.
Thank you for your comment.
My apologies for my delayed response. I had originally purchased two of each type of ZVS, 3 pole and 2 pole because I was curious as to which one would best suit this setup. In my tests I found the more efficient unit to be the 3 pole. There may be loads for which this is not the case however using a 70 watt halogen bulb the 3 pole ZVS operates the light using only 18.7 watts and the 2 pole ZVS consumes 20.3 watts, still very efficient and at the same brightness but still less efficient.
I wonder how much more difficult would be to use a small device Dumas Effect instead of ceramic heater bulb ? 🧐
Thank you for reminding me of the Dumas effect, I was supposed to test this concept, initially I thought of testing it with my “portable through earth unit” but I imagine this unit would also be a good test subject. I will write this one down now and thank you again.
Very very good video and explanation. Well done on Tesla education. Have you tried Master Ivo latest earth currents? You are very close to that setup. ;)
Thank you for watching and your comment. I got half way through Master Ivo’s latest video and was pulled back to reality for some mundane household chore! Thanks for reminding me, I will finish his video and then respond to you. :)
Brilliant idea, I was trying to make a setup for heating … you just got it ahead of me. Great work 👍🏼
By the way have you tried to use Tesla switch batteries with this setup ?
Thanks for watching. I have tested this setup with the basic Tesla Switch battery arrangement and it works just fine. I said I was going to make this video a year ago and it was mostly laziness that prevented it from happening, at least it is done now. I would like to make this into a portable, backpack style unit as a “bug out, prepper power unit”, perhaps on a plastic chopping board with terminals attached to the board allowing you a quick pack up to get ahead of the next zombie wave! 🤣
@@whatifididthis...1236 Will you please share the exact tesla switch diagram you built from? There are more than one out there and the others do seem to kill batteries instead of working right.
God bless and be well!
Parabéns 👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you for watching.
PEACE
Thank you for your comment.
May you also be at peace my brother.
Thanks for watching.
Teslas example uses 1000 turns pancake. He states it is "advantageous " that your coil be 36" diameter minimum. Even his healing circuit use 36" diameter wooden hoops with 20 guage wire wrapped around the outside. His words are gospel in my opinion. So when he says something is important and I listen.
Thank you for your comment.
Couldn’t agree more, if there is even the slightest deviation from his original design then you have created something else.
The problem here is researching Tesla’s discoveries without the drip feed from one of the world’s richest men. A lot of the time I build my version of Tesla’s work from what scrap I have as opposed to specifically buying something, all the while keeping in mind that this isn’t the same and with the intention of making the same if it’s feasible and based on results from my version. Most of the time I’m guided by my desired outcome over replication, ie. I want a particular light to operate at it’s most efficient rate I will take the Tesla concept and tailor it to my needs, if I can achieve it without the extras then all the better.
Again I will highlight the importance of your statement, when he says something is important, I listen.
@@whatifididthis...1236cool videos thanks for uploading..checkout Ivo’s new video this week it’s about focusing more on the electrostatic, negating the mag field. There’s an 8 year old Video on Yt from an Indian guy how to make a Scalar wave, also the 1901 Tesla lecture that Ivo cites is useful as well. No one knows how this stuff works for the most part..even the people in the comments telling you you’re making mistakes lol
Thank you for your comment.
I saw Ivo’s video, very interesting, I will say the different forms of electricity are very interesting. I’m editing a video I recorded last week that demonstrates the differences with and without the ferrite core, the dielectric has always seemed more volatile to me, put it this way, I’ve blown more stuff up that way.
I will check out the video you mentioned, always keen to learn. One thing I’ve learned over 20+ years of experimenting, everyone’s an expert.
Thank you for watching.
Wait, is this someone who misunderstands transformers and thinks you can get more power out than you put in? Cos that's what it seems like.
Thank you for your comment.
I'm not making any statements about anything you may have seen or heard.
I imagine you have heard of a neon sign transformer.
Let's crunch the numbers of a random transformer, one of many available for sale and attainable right now.
Input 120VAC X 2.36Amps
= 283.2 Watts.
Output 12000VDC X 0.042Amps
= 504 Watts.
Sometimes it is more important to understand than it is to understand why.
@@whatifididthis...1236 Yeah I think you're confusing nominal ratings, like your 72 watt light bulb, which will light with much less, with actual measured power.
With unusual AC waveforms it's particularly difficult, a multimeter can't do it, you'd really need a scope with some smarts in it that can calculate that.
If it's just ordinary sine-wave mains power, you can just use RMS. In that case you can simply measure the volts and amps. This transformer you mention, what is it? How did you measure it? Transformers are extremely well understood, it is much more likely that you have made a mistake, than what is.
@@greenaum I'm not too interested in the particulars of a circuit, instead I focus on how I can make it and use it to my advantage. My main focus is whether it's affordable both financially and electrically and whether there's a benefit or can the goal be achieved in easier ways.
The transformer I mentioned is a "neon sign transformer", they have been around forever, this is what Don Smith mentioned in every video he was ever in.
Just type that into a search engine and search images, you will find thousands of commercially available neon sign transformers. The majority, if not all of them will have similar properties.
@@whatifididthis...1236 They don't produce more energy than you put in. No object in existence has that property, in the known universe. You're misunderstanding what a transformer does.
The particulars are where you're going wrong.