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Where do you get the bendy clip thingy-ma-bopper that is holding your phone? I've seen them in other videos here and have alway wondered where to get them. Looks like something I could use for my artwork.
Yearly or Bi annual maintenance on your shop and what you do like an overview of all things needed to do for maintenance of tools and things running tools in new layout would be cool if any is more then Bi annual you could elaborate why it is needed or should have been done before. I know you have a few tools more easily accessible for said maintenance as well as a shop tool back.
A good source for workbench material is old semi trailer doors. The ones I used are 1-1/8 inch thick with two fastened together for a 3-1/4 inch thick benchtop. You can choose the ones with metal sheathing or the type with a metal frame that can be removed for a wood surface. You can make a giant worktop or cut them to fit smaller shops.
If you're setting up a shop in your basement, don't overlook air filtration. VOCs and dust will absolutely find their way into the rest of your house if you don't have ventilation and filtration.
@@oem42Yep. which is also how they circulate throughout the house. Because most furnace intakes are closer to the ground so the heavier concentrated VOCs get sucked in and pumped upstairs. Assuming a forced air furnace is installed.
@@j.r.millstone It's not just that the furnace is in the basement. Heavier air will want to be pushed by a fan way more than lighter air. It's a density thing so when you are pushing air usually it will take on the heavier air first.
@@ChristopherFerguson there's a bunch of options out there if you go and look for them. There's also paint booths for miniature painting and air brushing. If you do bigger things there's inflatable paint booths that are big enough to fit cars. You can change up the air in your basement pretty fast with just a good fan in a window with another window open. You could get fireproof filters to filter some stuff out so your neighbours don't get mad. I've seen some pretty big furniture finishing setups in this way. A corner office was converted into a paint booth but you needed to keep the doors open.
I put this in a reply, but realized it really wants to be a top level comment. In every parts drawer put a small card with how to get more of that part, optionally how much you paid and how long ago. That way when you run out, any shop helper can order more and you no longer need to keep that detail in your head. Putting the price helps you figure out how much a build cost if you need that detail and if it took you 2 years to use the stock, then maybe order less next time.
Did fleet work for years and when restocking, I always tore the end off a box and stuck it in the drawer with the parts. Ok, that was 50 flat washers, 3/8" uss, plated, 10 cents each.
My small shop must haves: - hot glue gun - dremel tool - Irwin quick clamps - Duct, electrical, and gaffers tape - Electrical / rubber mat to work on - Pegboard metal wall organizer with accessories
Agreed - I put two long (48") ones on the back of my electronics bench (which is on wheels) to plug in meters, scopes, electronic load, signal generators, soldering station, etc. Two more shorties like Adam displayed on the bench ends for random things that need to be plugged in. I also invested in short power cords to keep that disaster to a minimum. Now to clean it off so I can actually do something ;)
When it comes to workbenches, buy a cheap one, use it for a while and take notes about what you like and what you don't. Then build your own. I built a Nicholson-style bench (ala Paul Sellers) and I couldn't be happier. Chris Schwarz has written several books on wood-working benches that are very helpful. Also make sure to have a bookshelf for all the books you will inevitably buy.
I second that very much. Except Chris Schwarz has crazy ideas about workbench height - but that’s another reason why it’s a great idea to buy or build a cheap one first, that’s by far the best way to really find out what you want and need.
Not everyone is a woodworker. Sad, I know. The truth is woodworking is a cross discipline for any other activity. Even if what you do is sew you can still use woodworking to compliment that.
@@1pcfredthis is very true. I do canvas and upholstery for boats, and I’m realizing that I really need to upgrade my woodworking equipment. Our shop tables are huge, like 8x 20 ft, and we end up using the picnic tables outside for sawhorses 😭
@@obiworm99 I've seen some sturdy picnic tables that'd make fine workbenches for rough carpentry. That kind of work typically is done just on sawhorses. The next step up is a workbench with a wood vise on it. I have 3 wood vises that have cost me the combined total of two dollars. All of that money went towards the one vise I bought at a flea market. The other two I made out of stuff I'd found. What I'm trying to say is you don't have to break the bank. Although if you want to that route is available too.
Literally just bought a workbench from Hazard Fraught for $175 which has tool holes and a built in wood vice. Seems solid enough for a 5' x 30" surface.
I have a 7 HP air compressor... I think a large high volume air compressor is the best and if it loud then put it outside build a shed around it... Insulate the shed and put a small baseboard heater in it. I have no regrets of putting my air compressor outside.
@@naseausderhuette absolutely! "hot dog" style compressor, beats the heck out of a pancake style one that's way louder. My CalAirTools compressor has wheels and it's so easy to use it in the garage but also move it into the house when needed without dinging up the walls or trim. Oh, and don't forget the air filter and rubber hose.
Another cheap workbench surface is a used (flat) solid core door. Ask remodelers or restore people as well as Craig’s list. A door, two saw horses, and a couple of long wood screws to hold them together make for a quick flat surface to get started with. Put another board across the base of the sawhorses with some sandbags to help hold it down. Eventually you’ll want something that is sturdier, but if you can find a cheap/free door, this is not a bad way to get started.
I have an old solid core door that somebody covered in Formica (?) on a wood 4x4 base and legs . It will hold a small auto engine with no problem. It’s about 30yr old now.
And its gotta be solid core!! My "bench" while I was making my for real bench was two hollow core doors. As my clamp collection grew they made the doors sag about a half inch and I've punched thru the veneer faces doing workholding.
Additional recommendations for setting up your shop: Get basic PPE/ safety equipment: a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, dust masks and/ or respirators, work gloves, disposable nitrile gloves, safety glasses and or a face shield, ear plugs and/ or other ear protection, steel-toed work boots, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. Set up your shop with proper ventilation, whether that is with cross-ventilation (which is more passive) or forced-air ventilation (which is active). If you will be spray painting frequently or doing similar processes that make fumes, install a spray booth. If you will be sanding or doing other work that makes particulates frequently, install a down-draft table. If you will be storing solvents or other harsh chemicals, install a locking steel safety cabinet to store them in. And last but not least, a Shop-Vac is your friend. Hope this helps! 🙂
Happy to see you showed a power strip that has the outlets perpendicular to the length of the strip. Folks should be told to avoid the cheap plastic ones that have the outlets in-line with the length where the cords get in the way of their neighbors. In these days of "wall warts" having a wide spacing between outlets makes a big difference, too. A nice four-foot power strip at the back of the bench is very convenient, and leaving some space to allow excess cord to hang down out of the way. For a workbench that's up against a wall: consider including a lip or board barrier at the back of the bench to stop those small rolly parts from rolling off the edge and behind it. Similarly, design to leave space between the floor and any supports, shelves, drawers, etc., so you can retrieve any small things that roll under. Because as we all know from Murphy, dropped parts naturally seek the nearest object they can roll under or behind. A corollary is that spilled liquids will also seek the nearest thing they can seep under. So think about what you'll do if you have to mop things up, slide in a vacuum cleaner, or use pick-up tools.
Back in the 70s I was worked at a TV repair shop where the boss had placed power stripes on all of the benches where we could plug in test equipment & televisions. It was nice and well thought out.
as a kid I was spoiled, my dad bought a diner's countertop and he put it against the back wall of the garage. and he bought a couple booth table tops we would put on saw horses.... they were FLAT so I used them when building model airplanes etc. plus if i needed a tie down point I never worried about putting a small hole for a wood screw in any of it. At one job we would make tables to build small weldment machines. One end would be a 3/4 to 1" thick pc of steel 1 foot by 3-4 foot wide. the other end would always get destroyed and we didn't want a metal top so we used particle board and when it got really messed up we just replaced the top. It did suck to loose all the battle scars. We did drill holes in the steel tops to hold vises and to put parts on to drive pins through, they were great and built to drive tanks on.
One caveat about Evapo-Rust: It is ineffective below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It still works but it takes months to see any results. So you either need to keep it at or above 70 degrees or have the patience of a saint. A power strip with individual switched outlets and a built-in USB charger is just the ticket for a charging station.
@@BanterMaestro2-vh5vnI've never seen one zap a phone, but almost universally they're minimum standard (or below standard) power, so they charge atrociously slow or fail to even charge.
@@BanterMaestro2-vh5vn I agree about phones but there's a whole plethora of work lights, headlamps, and other small shop gadgets that use USB charging these days.
I live in Colorado and I can attest to this! It didn't work at all below 60. To be fair though I was trying to do my garage shop during the dead of winter and temps below 30 😅😅
Muriatic acid removes rust in seconds and can be had at any pool supply store for cheap, spray on with a spray bottle let sit for a few seconds rinse rust off with water and then hit with some wd 40 or rubbing alcohol to stop it from flash rusting.
One thing I would highly recommend for any power strip is a built in circuit breaker (fuse, etc). A good friend of mine who was the PIO for OC Fire (and went to numerous house fires caused by power strips) recommended that to me. It might add $5 in price at most.
Lumber liquidators have solid wood countertops. You can pick up returned ones (or ones damaged in shipping) at the showroom. I priced oak for a workbench countertop and the walnut one they had on the floor was cheaper, and it saved me loads of time.
..& when installing the lights, do so from the perimeter inwards. This way you can be sure that when you're standing at a workspace near the wall, you're not casting your own shadow over the workpiece! This goes for kitchens, too! :)
yeah lol his last vid is about starting the bulding of the ones on the right of him (his left) they all are on drawer slides im guessing next video will be about finishing them
probably replacing all of his old storage boxes that are not the Adam Savage branded orange Sortimo's they made for him. which is probably for the new drawer system he is working on.
Yep 15 units high. Though frankly I would have made more cabinets and kept the sortimo between knees and shoulders. Then floor height tools or loose stock could live under there and you would never have to bend over too far for small pieces. I'm going to add something I saw in a completely unrelated video and that is in a drawer put the supplier for where you got the thing so that when you run out you have a little card to look at that lets you go get more. That way you don't have to remember all of that stuff.
About power in a workshop: if you can, try to get an extra breakerbox. You're going to trip breakers a LOT, and if you have a separate box in the workshop, you can more easily split power for tools and light. Especially in a basement, you want to make sure you ALWAYS have light. Just for safety!
If you are tripping breakers then you are doing it wrong. I'm not sure I have tripped a breaker with the exception of accidently shorting something or running a crazy long extension cord.
I keep lighting and dust collection on one 15a breaker. Power tools are run on their own 20a (table saw, jointer, planer, corded sanders). In a single person shop, that’s enough since I don’t run more than one large tool and dust collection at a time.
I put a power strip on the front edge of my bench, recessed back under the lip of the top, much handier to use tools on floor, auxilary work tops or at bench rather than having cords pulled across. Add one to a shelf for charging, testing gear, etc. And I use two 4-foot or one 8-foot light right over my top, plus various spots. Mount a wood working vise, then mount a machinist vise to a block, and you have a place to mix and match work holding. I have at least 5 vises that do different tasks, some fixed but the movable ones really work well. And I have a small bench anvil to use as a beating surface rather than the vise, at 9 lbs it makes a great dead weight, work holder, third hand!
I've got one in the front like yours, and in the back. The back is for the tools I've got semi-permanently installed (drill press, drum sander, one battery charger).
I too am a man of many vises. I like your vise-in-a-vise solution, that's a good idea. I've got one small one on a plywood block that I can move around to wherever I need it, or throw in the truck and use off-site.
As a designer (woodworker by trade) and workshop instructor, my advice for every small shop would be this: *HANG YOUR SHELVES FROM THE CEILING* (sorry for shouting) using 3/8 or 10mm all-thread. This way you save all the floor space and you can move much more freely around your work-bench and have space for assembling your projects etc. Also, this way you can move your machines around much more easily. Machines you have to dig out of a pile of material before you can use them won't see much use, if any...
@@extremewireheadReinforced concrete in my case. I'm using 3/8 or 10mm threaded anchors and extend them with galvanized all-thread. On those rods I either hang boxes made from 3/4 OSB, 2x4in beams that hold up timber and sheet stock. You can also bolt a 2x4 to the wall, place your shelf on it and then hold it up with just two supports - this way you split the load between wall and ceiling. If you don't trust your ceiling, make a ledge from two stacked strips of OSB/plywood, held in place with a bolt/screw every 6 or 7 inches, make your shelf a little less deep than you normally would and then secure it with all-thread rods on the ceiling. or with a few screws into the wall.This way the wall will bear most/all of the load but you still don't use up any floor space...
Digital multimeter !!!! You can get a Fluke 101 for under $50, I use mine all the time and I have some very expensive Flukes but the 101 it my first grab,it’s small, relatively accurate and just easy to use !!!
Ooh yeah 100% agreed. Honestly any multimeter would be better than nothing. For someone lacking funds even the freebie harbor freight one gets the job done until the budget allows for a nicer one like a fluke. So useful for electronics related projects and repairs
Workbenches: I stumbled upon a seller of used wooden restaurant tables on craigslist. 30" x 48" x 1.5". I bought two. They are heavy, smooth and flat with no surface irregularities. I installed sit-stand legs on one. The other, I affixed brackets under the back which support two vertical 1x3 boards. To them, I put metal "hanging planter" hangars and hung a single 48" LED shop light right over my work area. It's crude, but functional. Yes, good light is wonderful! Also, I like hard-mounting power strips to the my benches, usually under one edge. As a near future project, I want to build a rolling base for one of them, with storage as a key feature. I... just... need... more... time...
Tips for Evaporust: 1. Thoroughly clean the parts beforehand 2. For heavy corrosion ; scrub parts every few hours with a brush, or twice daily if possible 3. Don't leave plated parts in the fluid for more than 3 days. The plating will come off eventually! (at least zinc plating on bolts will) For remaining rust neutralization, use a phosphoric acid based rust converter. I use a Septone product that works brilliantly!
Something that makes a dedicated shop outlet strip even more useful is an integrated remote switch. I removed one from a desk headed for that big office in the sky. The strip lives at the back of my jeweler's bench and the switch is mounted at the front under the bench. It's perfect for turning off the bench lights, radio and foot-pedal operated machines. One flick and everything comes to life.
I watched a StewMac interview with luthier Evan Gluck. His shop was unique in that his hand tools were within reach behind him. I’ve seen jewelers benches organize the same way and I’ll probably do this with my electronics workspace.
Forget butcher block! The very best workbench top is a solid core door. You can find them cheap and in all sizes at places like Habitat Restore. They are very stable, very straight, and about two inches thick. You can cut them exactly to size, and, if you want, you can easily attach any other surface to them, like thin plywood, metal sheeting, or plastic, to get whatever surface you need. I highly recommend them. All of my workbenches have solid door tops except my metal ones.
I used to have an extension cord problem in my small workshop corner. Then I got tired and just picked up the same power strip that Adam was showing. I have 4 of them mounted on the wall over the workbench and desk. Best decision ever. The spacing is large enough for bigger plugs and transformers.
I have several work benches myself, each with a different purpose, One made with a 1/2" steel plate top for welding small items on, one with a .60" plate steel top that measures 4x10ft for heavy work, several 3x5ft common shop benches with drains for disassembly, one 3x12ft stainless 'counter height bench for small assembly work, one wood bench made with a top glued up from 20 80" 2x6" planks glued up and milled flat on their edges to form a 6" thick solid surface for wood work, plus two 'tables' built from two 80x36" recycled doors from a local school that was torn down. Each one made from solid wood covered in maple veneer. Those are my gluing benches, set up with various clamps and peg holes. One tool I couldn't live without is a good vice, bigger is better. Another is a blast cabinet for metal prep and cleaning, plus a mig welder, a set of oxy-acetylene torches, a band saw, a hydraulic press, and an air compressor that you can't run out of air. For me, that means a pair of 10hp 120 gallon compressors. Depending on what your working on, maybe a tire machine, a milling machine, at least one lathe, and some sort of belt sander. I also put having a small refrigerator in the shop pretty high on my list as well, the ability to not have to leave at lunch time or to have something cold to drink is invaluable. Not to mention various sealers often require that they be stored cold so they don't harden up in the container, (many anaerobic sealers, CA adhesives, etc.). The ability to exchange air or vent fumes is also pretty important for many reasons as well.
When building a shop (or anything you might use for a significant amount of time) I think it's a good idea to build a lower fidelity version of what you have in mind. How you imagine a space to work can differ greatly from how it actually works in reality. For example, you might make some really slick shop drawers under your workbench only to discover that you'd flow better with wall-mounted cabinets. Make something a little rough to get you going, and once you've settled in to your process you can start to do that fancy shop infrastructure
I do this a lot when setting up something or creating some shop fixture for the first time. Usually there’s some complicated feature I want to add, or something that bothers me that I want to change. But it makes more sense to try it as-is first.
My mother bought me one of the aprons from Adam and it is absolutely fantastic!! I am also setting up my small shop in my garage . I have gotten so many tips and tricks from Adam! Been watching him since early Mythbusters!
Think about dust control already in the beginning. Wood dust is flammable. Dont try to make all storage cabinets and shelves uniform. If you buy used ikea bookshelves and salvage old metal file cabinets it is easier for you to remember where things are when they look different. Electric inventory of all tools and screws etc would also be smart. When you go to hardware store you always know what you need to buy. Big full sheet plywood table in the middle is good. And open shelves under the table and sliding drawers underneath it. Magnetic sweeper, swivel vise, ikea bekväm stool, ikea additional table, ikea råskog as tool cart. And dewalt is best all round brand(festool is for millionaires)
Something else to consider is temperature management. If your shop is a furnace in summer and an ice box in winter, it's not going to encourage you to go there and do stuff. It doesn't have to be the same temperature as your living areas, but it should be a comfortable work environment.
For the casters for equipment, Foot Master leveling casters, particularly the GDR (ratchet) series. They come in a variety of load ratings, mounting types, wheel materials, etc...
My small workshop is in our garage, and my workbench was found in the basement of our home, the base of the cabinet is metal, and the top of the cabinet is made out of a cheap counter top material. The tools 🔧 that I have are mostly from my two grandfather's.
You make an interesting point Adam about not having tools above the work bench (like most channels always seem to have). Personally I prefer to have them in reach but not above a main work bench because if I need to cut, route or plane something in a vice then it just gets plastered with saw dust. Sometimes I can't hook up a shop vac to the tool when I'm using it. So having tools somewhere else tends to eliminate cleaning them so often. One thing I find useful is the power distribution leads. They're basically an extension lead cut into 2m lengths with power points inbetween. You can just screw them to the wall at intervals and plug the end into your regular socket. You can even hang another powerboard off them if you need them for charging stations. Great if you don't know exactly where you want outlets when setting up.
Evapo-Rust is a must have in my shop and for any maker or DIYer. It’s honestly one of my favorite modern products. As always I enjoy your videos and just enjoy hearing you discuss with likeminded individuals. Cheers Adam!
Clamps, holders, pins, magnets, weights, blocks.. anything that holds what you are working on at the right place, at the right angle for you to work on without moving is something that I am finding to be as important as the tool itself.
As someone with a small shop, organizing and sorting is #1 on the priority list, as well as having the more used tools closer to the main area on or near the work bench for quick access
I just finished setting my new hobby space, mainly table top game miniatures. I put 25 years of lessons learned into the space. Started from way back in the day with a tool box of stuff that I would have to now a spare bedroom in a walk out basement. I spent the past 20 or so years just buying another set of small plastic drawers whenever I needed more storage for “stuff” so everything was all over the place! New space has IKEA kitchen cabinets top and bottom with tons of drawers. I spent many hours sorting all of my stuff and doing a first order of retrieval system in the base cabinet drawers. Only thing left to do is Murphy bed the guest bed and build a dedicated airbrush booth desk that’s on wheels. I already punched a hole through the foundation for the paint booth to vent fumes out of. It’s been a fun project.
I have used those same type of moveable/stationary equipment wheels for my bandsaw as well as a 2,000 lbs welding table I just welded them right to the machines and it works great! They are also really nice for actually leveling the machine, vs. just welding on casters. Cool to hear someone else talk about those!
Great video and tips! I recently built a murphy style folding shelf/table for my small metal lathe in my teeny tiny shop...truly THE best thing I ever built for my shop!
You're right about antique malls! Used to manage one and got sooo many fine quality and unique tools through there. Some even 100 years old that I still use. Most antique malls will have at least one dedicated tool vendor. Ask around and become their friend.
I don't know how small is 'small' in the USA. Here in the UK we're usually talking something VERY small. My own shop is around 200 sq ft with a pitched roof that slopes down to around 5' at the eaves. In a space that small you have to be REALLY choosy. One thing I did was to mount my heavy workbench on heavy-duty lifting castors so that I can move it around. That allows me to access stored items and tools against the walls and to pull out my folding table-saw when I need it. When in use, the castors will drop the bench onto the floor where it's stable. The bench also has a whole lot of drawers built-in where I store hand power tools. It's convenient for use and the extra weight adds stability.
I love my battery-operated band saw in my shop. It's always being used. Also a good belt sander, I have a Jet 36" I believe. If you're doing rehab work sand blast cabinet is a must! Oh, and welders of all types😂.... I love my plastic welder also. Happy making!
Small workshop topic. Great! Perfect topic, since I'm in the midst of rehabbing my garage turning it into a workshop. Long time ago, I built a rolling workbench with butcher block top (using bunch of scrap wood). Time for a redo, I think.
Just made a work bench out of 2x3 pallet wood, laid on edge. It's glued and screwed, then drilled for some 3/8" rod to hold it ridged. Coated it with urethane. Couldn't decide what kind of legs to use so I put it on top of an old "teacher's desk" that is sturdy like crazy and has a bunch of drawers. It also has 2 of those pull-outs for typewriters. (left and right) That's handy for when you need a little extra space. The whole thing is strong enough to mount a bench vise and hammer front end parts on my hobby cars. Got a few overheat lights and a plug strip to finish off things. BTW, most tools at garage sales are useless, but I did stumble on a bench grinder and one of those desk lamps with the articulated arm and a magnifying glass. Other garage sale items are an old hair dryer, electric heater, small window fan, etc. Handy when doing small spray paint jobs. Also found a short and tall stool so have options depending on the height of work. This bench is in an L-shape with a sturdy table so plenty of room to put things to the side. Oh, and hanging shelves from the rafters. Found those at a garage sale too.
Also for a workbench idea. Find a door shop or a home remodel and 'make a move' on one of the old outgoing solid wood doors. I kept one from an old home of mine. It is roughly 36 inches by 80 inches. I installed it against a wall with the same old door hinges so it folds out of the way (collapsable legs) when not in use. If I move I'm taking it with me again! Love it.
Lighting and more lighting. My 57 yr old eyes couldn't agree more. When I'm running my table saw I have multiple lights flooding the surface to keep shadows at a minimum. Also, the Grizzly workbench tops look awesome, definitely going to use one in my bench build and plan on punching some dog holes in it. Thanks for the tips.
Another good product for surface rust removal is Klingspor's Sandflex block. It's a block of rubber with abrasive (60, 120, or 240 grit) throughout. I mainly use the Fine (240 grit) for removing any light rust that pops up on my hand tools.
love that Sailrite!!! I built a similar custom 6'x 34" table on a folding leg frame that the machine drops into,but can be put away easily. I used all materials I had on hand from previous projects, including some fiberglass and awlgrip to give it a hard and durable finish.
Those power strips are great, but i can also highly recommend a retractable extension cord reel, they are so handy to pull out then put away so easily.
For Joshua Drum: you can get heavy duty bench castors for moving shop machinery around. They bolt to or weld to the machine stand such that the stand is normally sitting on the ground and stable, but you can stand on each castor's pedal with a foot to raise that corner on a castor wheel to move the equipment around. The pedals have an over-locking mechanism so you don't need to keep standing on them, when you get the equipment to its new position you just flick them up to disengage the castor wheel and drop the machine stand back down on the ground.
Antique/resale stores and yard sales are _great_ for finding tools because people seem to have a notion that old things need to be replaced, but for something sturdy and well made that's often the opposite. Assuming it's not covered in rust, a 40 year old wrench or hammer is probably higher quality than one you could buy today for 20x the price I was super fortunate when my grandpa died (as fortunate as one could be at least) that he left behind a wonderful old workbench. It's old, not flat or solid, full of holes and splinters, but it's sturdy as a rock and so full of character I doubt I'll ever replace it.
2:45 I have a VERY similar strip that I bought from Costco. It's fastened under one side of my long mitre saw station. Mine comes with two USB ports which is ideal because I have an old Samsung S9 that hardly holds a charge, but as long as it's plugged in, it's fine. And the other port has a cable that charges my IsoTunes Bluetooth ear muffs. I'll never need ALL of those outlets, but if one starts to get loose or somehow fail, there are others that were unused. I'll just blow them out with compressed air and carry on.
ADAM IV been watching you since my 20s im 45 now you are a cool dude Im a gear head and DIY heavy hardcore you are lagit the tv shows never did you justice.
Ive now moved and set up 3 workshops, Must haves would be, decent bench first.. Good lighting, Accesable sockets, meter stick, steel ruler,Measuring tape, engineers square, pencils, hammer, Screw assortment set, files/rasps, saws, chisel set, good quality cordless drill, and some glues like wood glue/epoxy/Ca Oh and a bluetooth radio...To stop yourself going Mad.. You can make quite alot with that basic setup.. Expand as you need..
If you're putting a lathe on wheels, you will be sacrificing accuracy. Lathes need to be levelled (there's a lot more to this than using a builders level to make it level to that spec. A LOT. ) This isn't essential, but if you're looking for or missing accuracy, then you will need to google how to level your lathe. It's probably not what you're expecting but well worth doing well. Happy turning either way!
If you put one on a mezzanine floor you will lose accuracy. Borg Warner in Australia had precision lathes for making car parts, exempt from import duty because we only manufactured ordinary grade ones here. The ones on the factory floor passed accuracy tests, the one(s) in development area had test piece after test piece fail accuracy tests, no matter the adjustment. The National Standards Lab, now National Measurement Lab*, of the CSIRO where my Mum worked was involved in finding the problem, and possibly in the initial evaluation. Eventually they figured out that the timber flooring was allowing them to flex, while those one / secured to the concrete were fine. * Or perhaps the more recently National Measurement Institute, as more practical and legal functions moved to NMI, with CSIRO in the more theoretical and research areas.
NSL became NML when it moved from the Sydney University site to West Lindfield, which is maybe 20 minutes north of Beyond, where Mythbusters was edited.
You can setup like a server rack. A screw lift in each corner for leveling and to lift the device off casters. Your gonna want hdpe or even metal wheels for that weight.
Just a side note about the wheels on your stool, you can now get rollerblade wheels for office chairs and pretty much anything, talk about a life changing item. Quiet silky smooth movement, especially on hard surfaces. They work better than normal wheels on carpeting too!!!!
The work bench that I have is one that happened by chance. I have a table that I use for a bunch of things but isn't heavy enough for planing timber. One day we found a discarded roof truss off cut (6' x 1' x 3") and placed it on the table over non slip material from the supermarket. I had the intention of bolting it down but found that it doesn't budge at all on the non slip material which is great because it's easy to remove when required.
3:10 - this was the moment I realized I left the power in my work shed. You may have saved my shed from burning down, you definitely saved my electric bill. Thank you
rags, sink, air circulation, small/hand vacuum, first aid kit (I like a dedicated shop one so I don't have to run looking for it only to find out someone else used it without mentioning it), stack of blank paper, a laptop (or notebook). As for workbenches, I have an old executive office desk an office was tossing in a move. Thing takes 3 people to move, but its rock solid and has built in file drawers, which work great to hold manuals and such
Defiently, a well designed, solidly built workbench is top of the list; build it to suit your height & arm reach. Power Points- can never have too many, and in my shed, I put double points every 1.5 meters. HVAC- whether simple wall mounted fans, aircon or heater - makes life more comfy when working on something. Small/ Medium whiteboard for nutting out ideas. I put 2 moveable lamps with LED bulbs onto the wall behind the workbench- they are manouverable in many directions & height
If I had to list two "must have" tools for the maker workspace they would be these: A vise. And a drill press. A good vise is the unpaid assistant you cannot do without. Filing, sawing, drilling, routing, shaping, whatever. A good vise, one that securely, and non-destructively holds your workpiece is a pearl beyond price. There are different types of vise for different materials and workflows. But a good vise is an absolute "must have." Second: The drill press. There really isn't any acceptable cheaper alternative method for drilling accurate, straight holes in materials than a drill press. Whatever materials you are working with. Whatever projects you'd like to complete - get the right vise and the right drill press, and you'll find your life, and your projects, all go a whole let better.
Adam, I'm an old school fan - and it's just a pleasure to watch you impart your knowledge and experience mate. All the best from down under in New Zealand.
I had a great workbench in my garage for 20 years. Power strip, overhead lighting and a vice. Two weeks ago my house caught fire and the bench got torched.....house is being gutted prior to rebuilding but I sure do miss that bench.
I have a 2 story garage (was originally built for animals) with 8 foot ceilings, i have outlets and powerstrips overhead and I must say that I greatly enjoy that. No tripping over cables, they reach where I need to go and it usually makes working with a tool much easier.
I second antique malls, flea markets and garage sales for tools. Last year I found a brand new Stanley miter box with saw for $5, along with a nice older hobby saw, also $5. I picked up a really nice older chisel that cost me $7 and is still very sharp. I've seen planers, all sorts of tools out there at some of these things for next to nothing compared to the cost of what some tools cost new. Last year I found a Singer 66 sewing machine that I got for $50 that's like new. It came with not only a rewired cord but also a new light for it. Since I am using it for leather, I want to be able to control the speed and slow it down so I added a handwheel so I can work the machine manually but it's in perfect shape. There are a lot of good tools and deals out there on them for a workshop so you don't have to buy all new things just getting started.
Proper light is important. I recommend lots of lights to reduce shadows and CCT fixtures because you can change the temperature and it can help reduce the fatigue especially when you are working for long periods of time.
That question about rust removal on a latge is perfectly timed. I'm also restoring (to a usable state) an Atlas lathe. And I was even talking to my wife earlier today about Evapo-rust. Hearing that from Adam confirms that i should pick some up...
For a workbench top, laminated 2x4s are good. Pick your lumber carefully. Plane the larger faces down such that the rounded edges are gone, then laminate together 3 at a time. Laminate these sub-assemblies together the next day. Once dry, plane the top flat, and plane the bottom only where it touches the legs. Note: Mine was built this way using only hand tools; you're not going to get a 3in tall by 15in wide top through a lunchbox planer! I also have a tool tray for the back half of the workbench, which saves on wood (& weight, the top is heavy enough as it is).
I helped a friend paint walls, floor and ceiling gloss white. It was as if we tripled the lighting. If possible buy power strips with the slots aligned like this one. When the slots are parallel to the sides power bricks will cover the next outlet.
i like the hf 4 ft power strip and their 5500lum shop lights for workbenches IF you are not going to put a terrible lot of weight or pressure i have been picking up electric height desks at auction sites works great for out feed tables for saws and just easy set ups and setting at to work on that part you have to tear down!!!! a box fan in a window could work for short term air filtration.
The main things I use in my shop is wire strippers, mutli screw drivers I have 30 pc tips, glue gun, soldering gun and super glue. I saw could come in handy but i can melt through plastic with a soldering gun! I highly suggest getting a fan to blow any soldering air or just to keep airflow!
A lament for a recently departed tool store in Pompton Plains, NJ : When my Dad was trying to sell my grandfather's case of machinist tools we were looking for some help with pricing and identification after some high end micrometers were let go at our garage sale for far too little. A nearby shopper who was serendipitously a former machinist pulled me aside to warn us of the blunder . As I was discussing this with my barber while getting a haircut one day, he said he knew the perfect place, Re-Tool. The owner was a shop teacher at a local tech school running the store afternoons and weekends. This place was a treasure trove of used tools at great prices, and his years of experience were incredibly valuable. We ended up selling Grandpa's tools on consignment over the course of a few years, occasionally getting a nice surprise check in the mail if some tools had sold. Unfortunately for us, two years ago the owner retired from his full time job and closed the store as well. While I am happy for him, there is a hole where a great store used to be.
Organized storage is the single most important thing i can think of for a small shop space. nothing makes a shop feel smaller than clutter and not being able too find things.
run 3/4 conuit around the entire basement just above workbench level. put junction boxes and double duplex outlets every 5 foot or so. depending on size itlle be anywhere from 1200 to 1500 bucks. youll love it. simple easy and on the cheaper side, just run it on top of wall and you'll have room for improvement., junction boxes you can run conduit up vertically and then install some high bays
Power strip outlet orientation and spacing is important - otherwise the "wall wart" AC to DC converters will block 3 outlets each! The one Adam showed is good for this - you can usually alternate wide and narrow to not have any obscured outlets.
Tools you can collect as you go start out with simple stuff, bigger tools like lathes and milling machines can wait till later. Simple stuff like screw drivers, chisels, knifes , files and hammers. Dremels are a must along with bits, you'll soon figure out what bits you use the most. Oh and band saws you will use the heck out of those.
2:27 in my area, I'm pretty sure 1 in 2 garage sales have a crap ton of tools. And i live those power strips, I've got one that has individual switches for each outlet.
All good advise...watching you roll around in that chair prompted me yo say mine is a favorite with a bad back it allows me to work comfortably and longer
Weird question, but i think a very important question that i'm not sure if you know the answer to. How exactly did you become such a good story teller? The way you express yourself that almost forces other people to be just as excited as you are about anything you talk about. I've never had that and i've always wanted to know how to hone that skill.
For the basement shop. The most important question is what kind of shop? Wood working? Metal fab? or just all of the above? Lighting, paint the walls white for light to bounce around so you're not working in a cave. Filtration so the upstairs doesn't get gassed out with sawdust, paint fumes and such. Also power is a major factor. Adam showed a huge power strip but you don't want to run a shop off of a 15 amp circuit or run the lights off the same circuit as you attend to run power tools on. Since it's in a basement the last thing you want is a table saw to trip the breaker and you're in the dark. Those are the keys things before you start thinking about tools and work surfaces.
Power strip: amzn.to/3uTjbE7
Evapo-Rust: amzn.to/3T34N4e
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Where do you get the bendy clip thingy-ma-bopper that is holding your phone? I've seen them in other videos here and have alway wondered where to get them. Looks like something I could use for my artwork.
Yearly or Bi annual maintenance on your shop and what you do like an overview of all things needed to do for maintenance of tools and things running tools in new layout would be cool if any is more then Bi annual you could elaborate why it is needed or should have been done before. I know you have a few tools more easily accessible for said maintenance as well as a shop tool back.
A good source for workbench material is old semi trailer doors. The ones I used are 1-1/8 inch thick with two fastened together for a 3-1/4 inch thick benchtop. You can choose the ones with metal sheathing or the type with a metal frame that can be removed for a wood surface. You can make a giant worktop or cut them to fit smaller shops.
Project Farm found a product that was better than Evapo-Rust. Can't remember what it was, but it was a video from a couple/3 years ago.
Semi Doors sound great, where do you find them???? @@DonariaRegia
If you're setting up a shop in your basement, don't overlook air filtration. VOCs and dust will absolutely find their way into the rest of your house if you don't have ventilation and filtration.
Not just that.. But many VOCs are also heavier than air (natural gas too).. So any leaks will head for the basement
@@oem42Yep. which is also how they circulate throughout the house. Because most furnace intakes are closer to the ground so the heavier concentrated VOCs get sucked in and pumped upstairs. Assuming a forced air furnace is installed.
@@j.r.millstone It's not just that the furnace is in the basement. Heavier air will want to be pushed by a fan way more than lighter air. It's a density thing so when you are pushing air usually it will take on the heavier air first.
Got any recommendations?
@@ChristopherFerguson there's a bunch of options out there if you go and look for them. There's also paint booths for miniature painting and air brushing. If you do bigger things there's inflatable paint booths that are big enough to fit cars.
You can change up the air in your basement pretty fast with just a good fan in a window with another window open. You could get fireproof filters to filter some stuff out so your neighbours don't get mad. I've seen some pretty big furniture finishing setups in this way. A corner office was converted into a paint booth but you needed to keep the doors open.
I put this in a reply, but realized it really wants to be a top level comment. In every parts drawer put a small card with how to get more of that part, optionally how much you paid and how long ago.
That way when you run out, any shop helper can order more and you no longer need to keep that detail in your head. Putting the price helps you figure out how much a build cost if you need that detail and if it took you 2 years to use the stock, then maybe order less next time.
I have a "suppliers" notebook.
Love this idea!
Did fleet work for years and when restocking, I always tore the end off a box and stuck it in the drawer with the parts. Ok, that was 50 flat washers, 3/8" uss, plated, 10 cents each.
If you pit wide sellotape over the box end first it survives the scuffing and dirt from the years of use. @@rupe53
I like putting the date on the container of expendables along with the price and vendor
My small shop must haves:
- hot glue gun
- dremel tool
- Irwin quick clamps
- Duct, electrical, and gaffers tape
- Electrical / rubber mat to work on
- Pegboard metal wall organizer with accessories
Those long power bars are awesome. My workbench has a 6ft long one that runs the whole length so there is always an outlet right where I need it.
Agreed - I put two long (48") ones on the back of my electronics bench (which is on wheels) to plug in meters, scopes, electronic load, signal generators, soldering station, etc. Two more shorties like Adam displayed on the bench ends for random things that need to be plugged in. I also invested in short power cords to keep that disaster to a minimum. Now to clean it off so I can actually do something ;)
They're pdus if I'm not mistaken? We use them for server cabinets
When it comes to workbenches, buy a cheap one, use it for a while and take notes about what you like and what you don't. Then build your own. I built a Nicholson-style bench (ala Paul Sellers) and I couldn't be happier. Chris Schwarz has written several books on wood-working benches that are very helpful.
Also make sure to have a bookshelf for all the books you will inevitably buy.
I second that very much. Except Chris Schwarz has crazy ideas about workbench height - but that’s another reason why it’s a great idea to buy or build a cheap one first, that’s by far the best way to really find out what you want and need.
Not everyone is a woodworker. Sad, I know. The truth is woodworking is a cross discipline for any other activity. Even if what you do is sew you can still use woodworking to compliment that.
@@1pcfredthis is very true. I do canvas and upholstery for boats, and I’m realizing that I really need to upgrade my woodworking equipment. Our shop tables are huge, like 8x 20 ft, and we end up using the picnic tables outside for sawhorses 😭
@@obiworm99 I've seen some sturdy picnic tables that'd make fine workbenches for rough carpentry. That kind of work typically is done just on sawhorses. The next step up is a workbench with a wood vise on it. I have 3 wood vises that have cost me the combined total of two dollars. All of that money went towards the one vise I bought at a flea market. The other two I made out of stuff I'd found. What I'm trying to say is you don't have to break the bank. Although if you want to that route is available too.
Literally just bought a workbench from Hazard Fraught for $175 which has tool holes and a built in wood vice. Seems solid enough for a 5' x 30" surface.
A large, quiet air compressor is one of my best shop purchases.
Do quiet compressors exist?
I have a 7 HP air compressor... I think a large high volume air compressor is the best and if it loud then put it outside build a shed around it... Insulate the shed and put a small baseboard heater in it. I have no regrets of putting my air compressor outside.
also adding a shop vaccuum. best purchase i made for cleaning up at the end of the day
California air tools! They’re great and room volume
@@naseausderhuette absolutely! "hot dog" style compressor, beats the heck out of a pancake style one that's way louder. My CalAirTools compressor has wheels and it's so easy to use it in the garage but also move it into the house when needed without dinging up the walls or trim. Oh, and don't forget the air filter and rubber hose.
Another cheap workbench surface is a used (flat) solid core door. Ask remodelers or restore people as well as Craig’s list. A door, two saw horses, and a couple of long wood screws to hold them together make for a quick flat surface to get started with. Put another board across the base of the sawhorses with some sandbags to help hold it down. Eventually you’ll want something that is sturdier, but if you can find a cheap/free door, this is not a bad way to get started.
I have an old solid core door that somebody covered in Formica (?) on a wood 4x4 base and legs . It will hold a small auto engine with no problem. It’s about 30yr old now.
I have 6 of these! Best, cheapest, most rock solid thing.
And its gotta be solid core!!
My "bench" while I was making my for real bench was two hollow core doors.
As my clamp collection grew they made the doors sag about a half inch and I've punched thru the veneer faces doing workholding.
Additional recommendations for setting up your shop:
Get basic PPE/ safety equipment: a fire extinguisher, a first-aid kit, dust masks and/ or respirators, work gloves, disposable nitrile gloves, safety glasses and or a face shield, ear plugs and/ or other ear protection, steel-toed work boots, and smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
Set up your shop with proper ventilation, whether that is with cross-ventilation (which is more passive) or forced-air ventilation (which is active). If you will be spray painting frequently or doing similar processes that make fumes, install a spray booth. If you will be sanding or doing other work that makes particulates frequently, install a down-draft table.
If you will be storing solvents or other harsh chemicals, install a locking steel safety cabinet to store them in.
And last but not least, a Shop-Vac is your friend.
Hope this helps! 🙂
When on a budget place an Osha sticker where you plan to store the item so at least your thinking safety first 😂
Happy to see you showed a power strip that has the outlets perpendicular to the length of the strip. Folks should be told to avoid the cheap plastic ones that have the outlets in-line with the length where the cords get in the way of their neighbors. In these days of "wall warts" having a wide spacing between outlets makes a big difference, too. A nice four-foot power strip at the back of the bench is very convenient, and leaving some space to allow excess cord to hang down out of the way.
For a workbench that's up against a wall: consider including a lip or board barrier at the back of the bench to stop those small rolly parts from rolling off the edge and behind it. Similarly, design to leave space between the floor and any supports, shelves, drawers, etc., so you can retrieve any small things that roll under. Because as we all know from Murphy, dropped parts naturally seek the nearest object they can roll under or behind. A corollary is that spilled liquids will also seek the nearest thing they can seep under. So think about what you'll do if you have to mop things up, slide in a vacuum cleaner, or use pick-up tools.
Back in the 70s I was worked at a TV repair shop where the boss had placed power stripes on all of the benches where we could plug in test equipment & televisions. It was nice and well thought out.
as a kid I was spoiled, my dad bought a diner's countertop and he put it against the back wall of the garage. and he bought a couple booth table tops we would put on saw horses.... they were FLAT so I used them when building model airplanes etc. plus if i needed a tie down point I never worried about putting a small hole for a wood screw in any of it. At one job we would make tables to build small weldment machines. One end would be a 3/4 to 1" thick pc of steel 1 foot by 3-4 foot wide. the other end would always get destroyed and we didn't want a metal top so we used particle board and when it got really messed up we just replaced the top. It did suck to loose all the battle scars. We did drill holes in the steel tops to hold vises and to put parts on to drive pins through, they were great and built to drive tanks on.
One caveat about Evapo-Rust: It is ineffective below 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It still works but it takes months to see any results. So you either need to keep it at or above 70 degrees or have the patience of a saint. A power strip with individual switched outlets and a built-in USB charger is just the ticket for a charging station.
@@BanterMaestro2-vh5vnI've never seen one zap a phone, but almost universally they're minimum standard (or below standard) power, so they charge atrociously slow or fail to even charge.
@@BanterMaestro2-vh5vn I agree about phones but there's a whole plethora of work lights, headlamps, and other small shop gadgets that use USB charging these days.
I live in Colorado and I can attest to this! It didn't work at all below 60. To be fair though I was trying to do my garage shop during the dead of winter and temps below 30 😅😅
Muriatic acid removes rust in seconds and can be had at any pool supply store for cheap, spray on with a spray bottle let sit for a few seconds rinse rust off with water and then hit with some wd 40 or rubbing alcohol to stop it from flash rusting.
One thing I would highly recommend for any power strip is a built in circuit breaker (fuse, etc). A good friend of mine who was the PIO for OC Fire (and went to numerous house fires caused by power strips) recommended that to me. It might add $5 in price at most.
Lumber liquidators have solid wood countertops. You can pick up returned ones (or ones damaged in shipping) at the showroom. I priced oak for a workbench countertop and the walnut one they had on the floor was cheaper, and it saved me loads of time.
To quote a friend "add lights until you begin to actually tan". If you EVER are gonna paint anything, you want the lights.
High CRI lights if you want accurate colors.
..& when installing the lights, do so from the perimeter inwards. This way you can be sure that when you're standing at a workspace near the wall, you're not casting your own shadow over the workpiece! This goes for kitchens, too! :)
Holy crap, Adam went ham with the Sortimo storage boxes!
yeah lol his last vid is about starting the bulding of the ones on the right of him (his left) they all are on drawer slides im guessing next video will be about finishing them
probably replacing all of his old storage boxes that are not the Adam Savage branded orange Sortimo's they made for him. which is probably for the new drawer system he is working on.
Yep 15 units high. Though frankly I would have made more cabinets and kept the sortimo between knees and shoulders. Then floor height tools or loose stock could live under there and you would never have to bend over too far for small pieces.
I'm going to add something I saw in a completely unrelated video and that is in a drawer put the supplier for where you got the thing so that when you run out you have a little card to look at that lets you go get more. That way you don't have to remember all of that stuff.
@RowanHawkins if info/reorder cards strike your fancy, look into kanban systems. It'll change your world
You should see the one where he keeps his various lengths of wire!! So cool
About power in a workshop: if you can, try to get an extra breakerbox. You're going to trip breakers a LOT, and if you have a separate box in the workshop, you can more easily split power for tools and light. Especially in a basement, you want to make sure you ALWAYS have light. Just for safety!
If you are tripping breakers then you are doing it wrong. I'm not sure I have tripped a breaker with the exception of accidently shorting something or running a crazy long extension cord.
There are breakers you can get outside of breakerboxes as well. I have a breaker on the power strip.
If you're in the basement - keep a flashlight handy. Lack of power may do to something other than your own efforts.
I keep lighting and dust collection on one 15a breaker. Power tools are run on their own 20a (table saw, jointer, planer, corded sanders). In a single person shop, that’s enough since I don’t run more than one large tool and dust collection at a time.
Also, decent cable management so you don't break trippers.
I put a power strip on the front edge of my bench, recessed back under the lip of the top, much handier to use tools on floor, auxilary work tops or at bench rather than having cords pulled across. Add one to a shelf for charging, testing gear, etc. And I use two 4-foot or one 8-foot light right over my top, plus various spots. Mount a wood working vise, then mount a machinist vise to a block, and you have a place to mix and match work holding. I have at least 5 vises that do different tasks, some fixed but the movable ones really work well. And I have a small bench anvil to use as a beating surface rather than the vise, at 9 lbs it makes a great dead weight, work holder, third hand!
I've got one in the front like yours, and in the back. The back is for the tools I've got semi-permanently installed (drill press, drum sander, one battery charger).
I too am a man of many vises. I like your vise-in-a-vise solution, that's a good idea. I've got one small one on a plywood block that I can move around to wherever I need it, or throw in the truck and use off-site.
As a designer (woodworker by trade) and workshop instructor, my advice for every small shop would be this: *HANG YOUR SHELVES FROM THE CEILING* (sorry for shouting) using 3/8 or 10mm all-thread. This way you save all the floor space and you can move much more freely around your work-bench and have space for assembling your projects etc. Also, this way you can move your machines around much more easily. Machines you have to dig out of a pile of material before you can use them won't see much use, if any...
Thinking outta the box. Smart man
What kind of ceiling does this work for? Mine doesn't have any wooden studs so I'm scared for how sturdy it could be to hang things from
@@extremewireheadReinforced concrete in my case. I'm using 3/8 or 10mm threaded anchors and extend them with galvanized all-thread. On those rods I either hang boxes made from 3/4 OSB, 2x4in beams that hold up timber and sheet stock. You can also bolt a 2x4 to the wall, place your shelf on it and then hold it up with just two supports - this way you split the load between wall and ceiling. If you don't trust your ceiling, make a ledge from two stacked strips of OSB/plywood, held in place with a bolt/screw every 6 or 7 inches, make your shelf a little less deep than you normally would and then secure it with all-thread rods on the ceiling. or with a few screws into the wall.This way the wall will bear most/all of the load but you still don't use up any floor space...
@f.d.6667 do you have the rods mounted from your ceiling? If so, how are the mounted? Or should I say,
what are they screwed into?
@@StarksDummy he describes it one message above
Digital multimeter !!!! You can get a Fluke 101 for under $50, I use mine all the time and I have some very expensive Flukes but the 101 it my first grab,it’s small, relatively accurate and just easy to use !!!
Ooh yeah 100% agreed. Honestly any multimeter would be better than nothing. For someone lacking funds even the freebie harbor freight one gets the job done until the budget allows for a nicer one like a fluke.
So useful for electronics related projects and repairs
Workbenches: I stumbled upon a seller of used wooden restaurant tables on craigslist. 30" x 48" x 1.5". I bought two. They are heavy, smooth and flat with no surface irregularities. I installed sit-stand legs on one. The other, I affixed brackets under the back which support two vertical 1x3 boards. To them, I put metal "hanging planter" hangars and hung a single 48" LED shop light right over my work area. It's crude, but functional. Yes, good light is wonderful! Also, I like hard-mounting power strips to the my benches, usually under one edge. As a near future project, I want to build a rolling base for one of them, with storage as a key feature. I... just... need... more... time...
Tips for Evaporust:
1. Thoroughly clean the parts beforehand
2. For heavy corrosion ; scrub parts every few hours with a brush, or twice daily if possible
3. Don't leave plated parts in the fluid for more than 3 days. The plating will come off eventually! (at least zinc plating on bolts will)
For remaining rust neutralization, use a phosphoric acid based rust converter. I use a Septone product that works brilliantly!
I worked at Leviton and my salesman friend helped develop that massive-multiple-outlet power strip.
Something that makes a dedicated shop outlet strip even more useful is an integrated remote switch. I removed one from a desk headed for that big office in the sky. The strip lives at the back of my jeweler's bench and the switch is mounted at the front under the bench. It's perfect for turning off the bench lights, radio and foot-pedal operated machines. One flick and everything comes to life.
I have a small space in my garage, I have discovered the difference modularity has made. French cleat wall above my workbench is a game changer.
I watched a StewMac interview with luthier Evan Gluck. His shop was unique in that his hand tools were within reach behind him. I’ve seen jewelers benches organize the same way and I’ll probably do this with my electronics workspace.
Looks like a rolling chair would be a great addition, as Adam flies across the shop…
Gotta have a smooth flat floor though 😅 or you're gonna have problems
Forget butcher block! The very best workbench top is a solid core door. You can find them cheap and in all sizes at places like Habitat Restore. They are very stable, very straight, and about two inches thick. You can cut them exactly to size, and, if you want, you can easily attach any other surface to them, like thin plywood, metal sheeting, or plastic, to get whatever surface you need. I highly recommend them. All of my workbenches have solid door tops except my metal ones.
Also, you can buy a sheet of 1/8” hardboard to cover it. Once it gets chewed up, and it will. Replace it. It’s a great work surface.
@@Wegl79 Exactly!
I used to have an extension cord problem in my small workshop corner. Then I got tired and just picked up the same power strip that Adam was showing. I have 4 of them mounted on the wall over the workbench and desk. Best decision ever. The spacing is large enough for bigger plugs and transformers.
I have several work benches myself, each with a different purpose, One made with a 1/2" steel plate top for welding small items on, one with a .60" plate steel top that measures 4x10ft for heavy work, several 3x5ft common shop benches with drains for disassembly, one 3x12ft stainless 'counter height bench for small assembly work, one wood bench made with a top glued up from 20 80" 2x6" planks glued up and milled flat on their edges to form a 6" thick solid surface for wood work, plus two 'tables' built from two 80x36" recycled doors from a local school that was torn down. Each one made from solid wood covered in maple veneer. Those are my gluing benches, set up with various clamps and peg holes.
One tool I couldn't live without is a good vice, bigger is better. Another is a blast cabinet for metal prep and cleaning, plus a mig welder, a set of oxy-acetylene torches, a band saw, a hydraulic press, and an air compressor that you can't run out of air.
For me, that means a pair of 10hp 120 gallon compressors.
Depending on what your working on, maybe a tire machine, a milling machine, at least one lathe, and some sort of belt sander.
I also put having a small refrigerator in the shop pretty high on my list as well, the ability to not have to leave at lunch time or to have something cold to drink is invaluable.
Not to mention various sealers often require that they be stored cold so they don't harden up in the container, (many anaerobic sealers, CA adhesives, etc.).
The ability to exchange air or vent fumes is also pretty important for many reasons as well.
When building a shop (or anything you might use for a significant amount of time) I think it's a good idea to build a lower fidelity version of what you have in mind. How you imagine a space to work can differ greatly from how it actually works in reality. For example, you might make some really slick shop drawers under your workbench only to discover that you'd flow better with wall-mounted cabinets. Make something a little rough to get you going, and once you've settled in to your process you can start to do that fancy shop infrastructure
I do this a lot when setting up something or creating some shop fixture for the first time. Usually there’s some complicated feature I want to add, or something that bothers me that I want to change. But it makes more sense to try it as-is first.
My mother bought me one of the aprons from Adam and it is absolutely fantastic!! I am also setting up my small shop in my garage . I have gotten so many tips and tricks from Adam! Been watching him since early Mythbusters!
Think about dust control already in the beginning. Wood dust is flammable. Dont try to make all storage cabinets and shelves uniform. If you buy used ikea bookshelves and salvage old metal file cabinets it is easier for you to remember where things are when they look different. Electric inventory of all tools and screws etc would also be smart. When you go to hardware store you always know what you need to buy. Big full sheet plywood table in the middle is good. And open shelves under the table and sliding drawers underneath it. Magnetic sweeper, swivel vise, ikea bekväm stool, ikea additional table, ikea råskog as tool cart. And dewalt is best all round brand(festool is for millionaires)
Evaporust is great! It's a chelating agent, so like Adam said, it works over and over, you don't have to throw it out, it doesn't get used up.
Adam's suggests are burned into my brain, i couldn't forget them if i tried and they are invaluable!
Thank you Adam, you are priceless to mankind!
Something else to consider is temperature management. If your shop is a furnace in summer and an ice box in winter, it's not going to encourage you to go there and do stuff. It doesn't have to be the same temperature as your living areas, but it should be a comfortable work environment.
For the casters for equipment, Foot Master leveling casters, particularly the GDR (ratchet) series. They come in a variety of load ratings, mounting types, wheel materials, etc...
My small workshop is in our garage, and my workbench was found in the basement of our home, the base of the cabinet is metal, and the top of the cabinet is made out of a cheap counter top material. The tools 🔧 that I have are mostly from my two grandfather's.
You make an interesting point Adam about not having tools above the work bench (like most channels always seem to have). Personally I prefer to have them in reach but not above a main work bench because if I need to cut, route or plane something in a vice then it just gets plastered with saw dust. Sometimes I can't hook up a shop vac to the tool when I'm using it. So having tools somewhere else tends to eliminate cleaning them so often.
One thing I find useful is the power distribution leads. They're basically an extension lead cut into 2m lengths with power points inbetween. You can just screw them to the wall at intervals and plug the end into your regular socket. You can even hang another powerboard off them if you need them for charging stations. Great if you don't know exactly where you want outlets when setting up.
Evapo-Rust is a must have in my shop and for any maker or DIYer. It’s honestly one of my favorite modern products. As always I enjoy your videos and just enjoy hearing you discuss with likeminded individuals. Cheers Adam!
Clamps, holders, pins, magnets, weights, blocks.. anything that holds what you are working on at the right place, at the right angle for you to work on without moving is something that I am finding to be as important as the tool itself.
As someone with a small shop, organizing and sorting is #1 on the priority list, as well as having the more used tools closer to the main area on or near the work bench for quick access
I just finished setting my new hobby space, mainly table top game miniatures. I put 25 years of lessons learned into the space. Started from way back in the day with a tool box of stuff that I would have to now a spare bedroom in a walk out basement. I spent the past 20 or so years just buying another set of small plastic drawers whenever I needed more storage for “stuff” so everything was all over the place! New space has IKEA kitchen cabinets top and bottom with tons of drawers. I spent many hours sorting all of my stuff and doing a first order of retrieval system in the base cabinet drawers. Only thing left to do is Murphy bed the guest bed and build a dedicated airbrush booth desk that’s on wheels. I already punched a hole through the foundation for the paint booth to vent fumes out of. It’s been a fun project.
I have used those same type of moveable/stationary equipment wheels for my bandsaw as well as a 2,000 lbs welding table I just welded them right to the machines and it works great! They are also really nice for actually leveling the machine, vs. just welding on casters. Cool to hear someone else talk about those!
Great video and tips! I recently built a murphy style folding shelf/table for my small metal lathe in my teeny tiny shop...truly THE best thing I ever built for my shop!
You're right about antique malls! Used to manage one and got sooo many fine quality and unique tools through there. Some even 100 years old that I still use. Most antique malls will have at least one dedicated tool vendor. Ask around and become their friend.
I don't know how small is 'small' in the USA. Here in the UK we're usually talking something VERY small. My own shop is around 200 sq ft with a pitched roof that slopes down to around 5' at the eaves. In a space that small you have to be REALLY choosy.
One thing I did was to mount my heavy workbench on heavy-duty lifting castors so that I can move it around. That allows me to access stored items and tools against the walls and to pull out my folding table-saw when I need it. When in use, the castors will drop the bench onto the floor where it's stable. The bench also has a whole lot of drawers built-in where I store hand power tools. It's convenient for use and the extra weight adds stability.
I love my battery-operated band saw in my shop. It's always being used. Also a good belt sander, I have a Jet 36" I believe. If you're doing rehab work sand blast cabinet is a must! Oh, and welders of all types😂.... I love my plastic welder also. Happy making!
Evapo-rust is great, but if you don't/can't fully submerge something there is a risk of etching a line where the part sticks up over the surface.
I wrap or cover it with a paper towel soaked in Evapo-rust, when I can't fully submerge.
Small workshop topic. Great! Perfect topic, since I'm in the midst of rehabbing my garage turning it into a workshop.
Long time ago, I built a rolling workbench with butcher block top (using bunch of scrap wood). Time for a redo, I think.
Just made a work bench out of 2x3 pallet wood, laid on edge. It's glued and screwed, then drilled for some 3/8" rod to hold it ridged. Coated it with urethane. Couldn't decide what kind of legs to use so I put it on top of an old "teacher's desk" that is sturdy like crazy and has a bunch of drawers. It also has 2 of those pull-outs for typewriters. (left and right) That's handy for when you need a little extra space. The whole thing is strong enough to mount a bench vise and hammer front end parts on my hobby cars. Got a few overheat lights and a plug strip to finish off things. BTW, most tools at garage sales are useless, but I did stumble on a bench grinder and one of those desk lamps with the articulated arm and a magnifying glass. Other garage sale items are an old hair dryer, electric heater, small window fan, etc. Handy when doing small spray paint jobs. Also found a short and tall stool so have options depending on the height of work. This bench is in an L-shape with a sturdy table so plenty of room to put things to the side. Oh, and hanging shelves from the rafters. Found those at a garage sale too.
Also for a workbench idea. Find a door shop or a home remodel and 'make a move' on one of the old outgoing solid wood doors. I kept one from an old home of mine. It is roughly 36 inches by 80 inches. I installed it against a wall with the same old door hinges so it folds out of the way (collapsable legs) when not in use. If I move I'm taking it with me again! Love it.
Lighting and more lighting. My 57 yr old eyes couldn't agree more. When I'm running my table saw I have multiple lights flooding the surface to keep shadows at a minimum. Also, the Grizzly workbench tops look awesome, definitely going to use one in my bench build and plan on punching some dog holes in it. Thanks for the tips.
Another good product for surface rust removal is Klingspor's Sandflex block.
It's a block of rubber with abrasive (60, 120, or 240 grit) throughout. I mainly use the Fine (240 grit) for removing any light rust that pops up on my hand tools.
A wise man told me a workbench against a wall is the devil's own creation! Try to have access at least 2 (3 or 4 is best) sides of the bench!
Put your workbench on wheels so you can wheel it right smack center of the room. Adjustable height benches are also nice to have.
love that Sailrite!!! I built a similar custom 6'x 34" table on a folding leg frame that the machine drops into,but can be put away easily. I used all materials I had on hand from previous projects, including some fiberglass and awlgrip to give it a hard and durable finish.
You learn a lot working in a small shop. I work in a 8x10 shop and have learned tons about storage
Nice Google swastika lol
Those power strips are great, but i can also highly recommend a retractable extension cord reel, they are so handy to pull out then put away so easily.
For Joshua Drum: you can get heavy duty bench castors for moving shop machinery around. They bolt to or weld to the machine stand such that the stand is normally sitting on the ground and stable, but you can stand on each castor's pedal with a foot to raise that corner on a castor wheel to move the equipment around. The pedals have an over-locking mechanism so you don't need to keep standing on them, when you get the equipment to its new position you just flick them up to disengage the castor wheel and drop the machine stand back down on the ground.
Antique/resale stores and yard sales are _great_ for finding tools because people seem to have a notion that old things need to be replaced, but for something sturdy and well made that's often the opposite. Assuming it's not covered in rust, a 40 year old wrench or hammer is probably higher quality than one you could buy today for 20x the price
I was super fortunate when my grandpa died (as fortunate as one could be at least) that he left behind a wonderful old workbench. It's old, not flat or solid, full of holes and splinters, but it's sturdy as a rock and so full of character I doubt I'll ever replace it.
2:45 I have a VERY similar strip that I bought from Costco. It's fastened under one side of my long mitre saw station. Mine comes with two USB ports which is ideal because I have an old Samsung S9 that hardly holds a charge, but as long as it's plugged in, it's fine. And the other port has a cable that charges my IsoTunes Bluetooth ear muffs. I'll never need ALL of those outlets, but if one starts to get loose or somehow fail, there are others that were unused. I'll just blow them out with compressed air and carry on.
ADAM IV been watching you since my 20s im 45 now you are a cool dude Im a gear head and DIY heavy hardcore you are lagit the tv shows never did you justice.
Ive now moved and set up 3 workshops, Must haves would be, decent bench first.. Good lighting, Accesable sockets, meter stick, steel ruler,Measuring tape, engineers square, pencils, hammer, Screw assortment set, files/rasps, saws, chisel set, good quality cordless drill, and some glues like wood glue/epoxy/Ca Oh and a bluetooth radio...To stop yourself going Mad..
You can make quite alot with that basic setup.. Expand as you need..
If you're putting a lathe on wheels, you will be sacrificing accuracy.
Lathes need to be levelled (there's a lot more to this than using a builders level to make it level to that spec. A LOT. )
This isn't essential, but if you're looking for or missing accuracy, then you will need to google how to level your lathe. It's probably not what you're expecting but well worth doing well.
Happy turning either way!
If you put one on a mezzanine floor you will lose accuracy. Borg Warner in Australia had precision lathes for making car parts, exempt from import duty because we only manufactured ordinary grade ones here. The ones on the factory floor passed accuracy tests, the one(s) in development area had test piece after test piece fail accuracy tests, no matter the adjustment. The National Standards Lab, now National Measurement Lab*, of the CSIRO where my Mum worked was involved in finding the problem, and possibly in the initial evaluation. Eventually they figured out that the timber flooring was allowing them to flex, while those one / secured to the concrete were fine.
* Or perhaps the more recently National Measurement Institute, as more practical and legal functions moved to NMI, with CSIRO in the more theoretical and research areas.
NSL became NML when it moved from the Sydney University site to West Lindfield, which is maybe 20 minutes north of Beyond, where Mythbusters was edited.
You can setup like a server rack. A screw lift in each corner for leveling and to lift the device off casters. Your gonna want hdpe or even metal wheels for that weight.
Just a side note about the wheels on your stool, you can now get rollerblade wheels for office chairs and pretty much anything, talk about a life changing item. Quiet silky smooth movement, especially on hard surfaces. They work better than normal wheels on carpeting too!!!!
The work bench that I have is one that happened by chance. I have a table that I use for a bunch of things but isn't heavy enough for planing timber. One day we found a discarded roof truss off cut (6' x 1' x 3") and placed it on the table over non slip material from the supermarket. I had the intention of bolting it down but found that it doesn't budge at all on the non slip material which is great because it's easy to remove when required.
3:10 - this was the moment I realized I left the power in my work shed. You may have saved my shed from burning down, you definitely saved my electric bill. Thank you
rags, sink, air circulation, small/hand vacuum, first aid kit (I like a dedicated shop one so I don't have to run looking for it only to find out someone else used it without mentioning it), stack of blank paper, a laptop (or notebook).
As for workbenches, I have an old executive office desk an office was tossing in a move. Thing takes 3 people to move, but its rock solid and has built in file drawers, which work great to hold manuals and such
Defiently, a well designed, solidly built workbench is top of the list; build it to suit your height & arm reach.
Power Points- can never have too many, and in my shed, I put double points every 1.5 meters.
HVAC- whether simple wall mounted fans, aircon or heater - makes life more comfy when working on something.
Small/ Medium whiteboard for nutting out ideas.
I put 2 moveable lamps with LED bulbs onto the wall behind the workbench- they are manouverable in many directions & height
Bench vise is an absolute must have. A good one, slowly mounted. Preferably on a heavy stand off the workbench😊
If I had to list two "must have" tools for the maker workspace they would be these:
A vise. And a drill press.
A good vise is the unpaid assistant you cannot do without. Filing, sawing, drilling, routing, shaping, whatever. A good vise, one that securely, and non-destructively holds your workpiece is a pearl beyond price. There are different types of vise for different materials and workflows. But a good vise is an absolute "must have."
Second: The drill press. There really isn't any acceptable cheaper alternative method for drilling accurate, straight holes in materials than a drill press.
Whatever materials you are working with. Whatever projects you'd like to complete - get the right vise and the right drill press, and you'll find your life, and your projects, all go a whole let better.
I use workstation casters. They have a foot pedal to lever them up so the wheel is engaged and you can move the workbench (or whatever).
Adam, I'm an old school fan - and it's just a pleasure to watch you impart your knowledge and experience mate. All the best from down under in New Zealand.
I had a great workbench in my garage for 20 years. Power strip, overhead lighting and a vice. Two weeks ago my house caught fire and the bench got torched.....house is being gutted prior to rebuilding but I sure do miss that bench.
I have a 2 story garage (was originally built for animals) with 8 foot ceilings, i have outlets and powerstrips overhead and I must say that I greatly enjoy that. No tripping over cables, they reach where I need to go and it usually makes working with a tool much easier.
Starting with a French Cleat modular wall system is a good idea while trying to figure out the best place to put things.
I second antique malls, flea markets and garage sales for tools. Last year I found a brand new Stanley miter box with saw for $5, along with a nice older hobby saw, also $5. I picked up a really nice older chisel that cost me $7 and is still very sharp. I've seen planers, all sorts of tools out there at some of these things for next to nothing compared to the cost of what some tools cost new. Last year I found a Singer 66 sewing machine that I got for $50 that's like new. It came with not only a rewired cord but also a new light for it. Since I am using it for leather, I want to be able to control the speed and slow it down so I added a handwheel so I can work the machine manually but it's in perfect shape. There are a lot of good tools and deals out there on them for a workshop so you don't have to buy all new things just getting started.
Proper light is important. I recommend lots of lights to reduce shadows and CCT fixtures because you can change the temperature and it can help reduce the fatigue especially when you are working for long periods of time.
The Sortimo system is done and look amazing! Ss previously mentioned all the new stacks of Sortimos means there are more hijinks to ensue.
That question about rust removal on a latge is perfectly timed. I'm also restoring (to a usable state) an Atlas lathe. And I was even talking to my wife earlier today about Evapo-rust. Hearing that from Adam confirms that i should pick some up...
For a workbench top, laminated 2x4s are good. Pick your lumber carefully. Plane the larger faces down such that the rounded edges are gone, then laminate together 3 at a time. Laminate these sub-assemblies together the next day. Once dry, plane the top flat, and plane the bottom only where it touches the legs.
Note: Mine was built this way using only hand tools; you're not going to get a 3in tall by 15in wide top through a lunchbox planer! I also have a tool tray for the back half of the workbench, which saves on wood (& weight, the top is heavy enough as it is).
They have a new Lazer that removes rust it works similarly to a welder
Lets just appreciate the $20k+ of sortimo boxes in the background - and thats before you add the contents
Oh goodness! Definitely NOT that much in Sortimo boxes!
I just got my Atlas 10F up and running that I inherited from a neighbor.
Amazing!
I helped a friend paint walls, floor and ceiling gloss white. It was as if we tripled the lighting. If possible buy power strips with the slots aligned like this one. When the slots are parallel to the sides power bricks will cover the next outlet.
Omg the organization beauty in the background is making my heart swoon.
i like the hf 4 ft power strip and their 5500lum shop lights for workbenches IF you are not going to put a terrible lot of weight or pressure i have been picking up electric height desks at auction sites works great for out feed tables for saws and just easy set ups and setting at to work on that part you have to tear down!!!! a box fan in a window could work for short term air filtration.
The main things I use in my shop is wire strippers, mutli screw drivers I have 30 pc tips, glue gun, soldering gun and super glue. I saw could come in handy but i can melt through plastic with a soldering gun! I highly suggest getting a fan to blow any soldering air or just to keep airflow!
A lament for a recently departed tool store in Pompton Plains, NJ : When my Dad was trying to sell my grandfather's case of machinist tools we were looking for some help with pricing and identification after some high end micrometers were let go at our garage sale for far too little. A nearby shopper who was serendipitously a former machinist pulled me aside to warn us of the blunder . As I was discussing this with my barber while getting a haircut one day, he said he knew the perfect place, Re-Tool. The owner was a shop teacher at a local tech school running the store afternoons and weekends. This place was a treasure trove of used tools at great prices, and his years of experience were incredibly valuable. We ended up selling Grandpa's tools on consignment over the course of a few years, occasionally getting a nice surprise check in the mail if some tools had sold. Unfortunately for us, two years ago the owner retired from his full time job and closed the store as well. While I am happy for him, there is a hole where a great store used to be.
Organized storage is the single most important thing i can think of for a small shop space. nothing makes a shop feel smaller than clutter and not being able too find things.
run 3/4 conuit around the entire basement just above workbench level. put junction boxes and double duplex outlets every 5 foot or so. depending on size itlle be anywhere from 1200 to 1500 bucks. youll love it. simple easy and on the cheaper side, just run it on top of wall and you'll have room for improvement., junction boxes you can run conduit up vertically and then install some high bays
Power strip outlet orientation and spacing is important - otherwise the "wall wart" AC to DC converters will block 3 outlets each! The one Adam showed is good for this - you can usually alternate wide and narrow to not have any obscured outlets.
I've found that old Data center rack power supply's are the best. Most are 220, but you can find 120v if you look around. Love it
Tools you can collect as you go start out with simple stuff, bigger tools like lathes and milling machines can wait till later. Simple stuff like screw drivers, chisels, knifes , files and hammers. Dremels are a must along with bits, you'll soon figure out what bits you use the most. Oh and band saws you will use the heck out of those.
2:27 in my area, I'm pretty sure 1 in 2 garage sales have a crap ton of tools. And i live those power strips, I've got one that has individual switches for each outlet.
All good advise...watching you roll around in that chair prompted me yo say mine is a favorite with a bad back it allows me to work comfortably and longer
Gotta love the ASMR of Adam walking about his shop and digging thru stuff.
Weird question, but i think a very important question that i'm not sure if you know the answer to. How exactly did you become such a good story teller? The way you express yourself that almost forces other people to be just as excited as you are about anything you talk about. I've never had that and i've always wanted to know how to hone that skill.
For the basement shop. The most important question is what kind of shop? Wood working? Metal fab? or just all of the above? Lighting, paint the walls white for light to bounce around so you're not working in a cave. Filtration so the upstairs doesn't get gassed out with sawdust, paint fumes and such. Also power is a major factor. Adam showed a huge power strip but you don't want to run a shop off of a 15 amp circuit or run the lights off the same circuit as you attend to run power tools on. Since it's in a basement the last thing you want is a table saw to trip the breaker and you're in the dark. Those are the keys things before you start thinking about tools and work surfaces.
I Recommend building your own using kitchen countertops, hardwearing,fairly cut and burn resistant, easy to clean and inexpensive...........