Nikon's Prosumer Mechanical SLRs, an Overview
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ต.ค. 2019
- CORRECTION: The shutter of the FM (and the Nikkormat) is stainless steel, not aluminum.
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#nikon #fm #fm2
14:05 You can mount unmodified pre-Ai lenses on an FM because it has a fold-away Ai coupling tab. If you fold the tab, you can attach older lenses and meter in a stop-down mode. The newer FM2 does not accept older lenses because it has a rigid coupling tab.
Yes, correct. I thought I mentioned that in the video. Please forgive me if I misspoke.
Brian's Photo Show
It’s a pity they removed this feature on later bodies. Rather surprisingly the Df can also do this.
Great overview, excellent!
My brother in law has a Nikomat FT2 camera (not labelled Nikkormat..it was a 'grey market import') and that camera was responsible for me getting my FM back in 1980 when I was evaluating various brands and models of film SLR's as my first 35 mm camera back in late 1970's. I was just impressed with the 'solid feel' and build quality of his camera and Nikkor lenses and that led me to jump into the Nikon system. Still have my FM it has never let me down and is still going strong. Recently picked up an Ftn Photomic (circa 1971) and I ran into the issue of the light meter reading being off slightly (about 3/4 stop) from meter readings taken of same subject with same lighting and same lens as my FM; but that I attribute to the modern equivalent batteries that are in it; vs. the original mercury batteries it was designed for. No big deal..I fudged the film ASA setting to allow for that. Agree wholeheartedly with your comments about the FM..never regretted picking that as my first film SLR and still love using it to this day.
Completely agree. Wonderful cameras.
The very, very last batch of the FM2, from mid 90's, had aluminium shutter back, but otherwise the camera was unchanged.
It was actually the borrowed, repurposed shutter from the F90 (N90) or F801 I think. You can easily recognise it, the shutter had flat surfaces unlike titanium version with the hexagonal pattern, yet the sync speed remained at 1/250th.
I'm not talking from the top of my head, I had that version of the camera back in the day.
That shutter version ironically came also in a limited version with titanium chassis, top and bottom plate (FM2/T), but boy was that expensive, 3X the price of plain new one...
I have just picked up an all black Nikkormat ft2 with a 50mm f2 lens.
I love it.
Yup. Nikkormats can be addictive.
Just got a black FTn with a Pre-AI 50/1.4 for $40. That's as good as it gets :)
Indeed. Well done!
hello , could you please let me where did you buy this set ? ebay ? daniel from france
There were actually three versions of the FM2.
From my own quick-and-dirty research
FM2 (v1) 1982-84 (etched titanium shutter, 1/200 flash sync)
7000001 - First production unit
7211896 - Highest observed
Transition 1984 around s/n 7249xxx
Serial numbers continue sequentially with added N prefix
FM2n (v2) 1984-89 (etched titanium shutter, 1/250 flash sync)
N 7255508 - Lowest observed
N 7521847 - Highest observed
Transition 1989 around s/n N 7525xxx
No change to serial number sequencing
FM2n (v3) 1989-2001 (F-801 aluminium shutter)
N 7547794 - Lowest observed
N 8756599 - Highest observed
TOTAL: 1,756,598 units (all three variants)
Hi Brian,
I started collecting Nikon’s about twenty years ago, my first was a FM. Was always more of a collector more than a user, but did also use them. About ten years ago I put all of my cameras into store, mainly due to failing eyesight making it almost impossible to use them. After some improvement in eyesight I got them out again a few months ago. Rather surprisingly all of the electronic ones are working except for a meter problem on one which was there when they were put away, and which has now been fixed. However, two of the mechanical ones have new problems. The FM has a problem with the wind lever, the lever moves, but does not engage, so the film doesn’t wind, and the shutter doesn’t cock. If I flick the lever or move the motor drive coupling with a coin a few times something clicks into place, and the wind then works again a few times before failing again. I doubt if this is anything serious, and can probably be fixed easily; I hope so because this is one of my favourite cameras, there are three camera shops not too far from me and easily reachable by bus or train, but the whole country is in lockdown again, so all are closed at the moment.
The other problem is with the Nikkormat FTn. When I got it out I mounted a 125 mm lens on it, and all seemed ok, even the meter was working, it was one of the few cameras from which I hadn’t removed the battery when putting it into store. I removed the lens and put it away. The next day I mounted the lens again, but something went wrong. The semi-auto indexing thing didn’t sound quite right, the maximum aperture indicator didn’t move from the end of its scale, and the aperture ring will not move to the fully open position, so I cannot remove the lens. It’s not just stiff, it’s a definite hard stop. I don’t suppose you have any ideas about this, do you. As a Nikkormat expert it can’t hurt to ask. Even of I can’t get the camera working again yet it would be useful to get the lens off so I can use it on a different camera. I’ve had problems with this indexing system before, and while slower to use the older fully manual system on the FT seems more reliable.
I have just one professional body, a chrome F, in almost mint condition; I picked it up at a collector’s fair many years ago: I think it was £75 with 50 mm f1.4. You don’t see prices like that now.
In the semi-Pro range I have Nikkormat Ft, FTn, FT2, FT3: EL and Nikon EL2. I then have the FM, FE, FA and F90X.
In the amateur range I have the EM, FG, F301 and F501. No, I don’t have lots of money, they were all bought cheaply, and over many years.
I don’t have FS or ELW Nikkormat, these are rare and fetch silly prices. I also don’t have the FM2, FM2 or FE2. I’d like a FM3a, but that’s way beyond my price range.
I also didn’t have any of the ‘budget’ models, the FM10, FE10 and FG20. The FM10 is also fetching silly prices. It was still listed on Nikon’s US site new at about $500 until quire recently, and even secondhand they’re not cheap. I have recently bought a FE10 with a fault very cheaply, and a FG20 in full working order which came with a nice Nikon wide burgundy and yellow strap for only about what the strap was worth. Both are in must about new condition. I don’t really like the FE10, a model which I didn’t even know existed until recently, but it’s worth having one for the collection. I actually think that the FG20 is the better camera of the two, it has the mock leather covering as used on the older cameras rather than the sticky rubber of the FE10. It can also take a motor drive which the FE2 cannot, and just feels better built, though not as good as the original FG.
I’m not sure which range the FM10 and FE10 should be put into, the model names suggest that they are in the same range as the FM and FE, but they’re nothing like them in any way, they should really be considered to be in a different range of their own. They have the same rectangular eyepiece of the EM and FG etc. though they don’t really fit in with that range either.
I really have far more cameras than is good for me, and at the moment cannot even get out to do any photography really, maybe next year. At least when I either give up or die they can all be passed on for other people to make good use of.
Thanks Brian. I assume the FTN can also use AI and AIS lenses as long as they still have the metering rabbit ears fitted?
Yes, you are correct. Pre-AI cameras can use any lens with rabbit ears.
Hi Brian, regarding the shutter, it's the FM2n that has the aluminum one and the FM2 has the titanium shutter that was replaced later.
Early versions of the FM2n also have titanium shutters with the honeycomb pattern. The final (1989 - 2001) batch of bodies came with the aluminum shutters afaik.
I've got both. But use the FT2 simply because of the voltage difference.
Minor correction: "Nikkormat" was the brand name for bodies sold in the US. "Nikomat" was the brand name for the camera sold world-wide, except in the US, not just in Japan.
Really? I thought "Nikomat" was specific to the Japanese market. You mean the models sold in Europe were branded "Nikomat" also?
@@BriansPhotoShow Hi there, Sorry that is incorrect my FT3 was bought Christmas 78 in Scotland and is a Nikkormat. Nikomat was Japan only
The Nikomat name was for the Japanese domestic market only. Nikkormat was for export to the rest of the world and was due to trademark requirements with Zeiss Ikon and the “Ikomat” brand name.
An nuclear bght a Nikomat w&ile in Cermany and gave me his Nikon S2 with rhe 50/1.4 lebs because the shutter as stuck. $40 and I had a working S2.
Great channel & videos ! As a Nikon lover myself, curious if you have experienced light meter issues with the FE or FE2's and if you recommend anyone who does repairs? I have a jumpy meter on a FE2 but not even sure if it is fixable or worth fixing?
The FE2 is a great camera and definitely worth fixing. If you're in the States, try KEH in Atlanta.
The Nikkormat meter. I've had three of them in the day and they all went bad as you describe...jumpy. I expect a repair would be expensive. The 'mat is a non-pro camera. The shutter is made by Copal and I had one fail too. The camera lovely in your hand but not nearly as reliable as an F of F2. If you have a meter problem with the meter either of those, just search for a replacement meter. Some consider the F2. to be the best mechanical camera ever made. Built like a tank. High praise, not high cost these days.
Brian...FM2 original, if I my call it. has shutter, which was prone to break. The shutter design of FM2N is different, solid and will last forever. I have both and if you look into the shutter design side by side, you can see the difference.
I had no idea that the original FM2 shutter had reliability issues. I always assumed the switch to aluminum was for cost savings versus titanium.
@@BriansPhotoShow You can check. I got two FM with broken shutter blades, I got those replaced with junk FM2N shutter, in a way that it has now mix of titanium and aluminium shutter. I will post a photo if I can get back that body from my student.
I am surprised actually a bit by the prices you paid for the cameras; I live in Europe - perhaps the secondhand market here is different. I picked up a Nikon FM for 70 Euro, then a NIkon FM2 for 125 (included a lens, and data back).
I always look at the condition of the body, they can be a bit scuffed but some of them are still pristine.
The trick is to get it CLA' d, and or have issues fixed if there are any; the Nikon FM and NIkkormat cameras are repairable and need little maintenance, there are many spare parts avail, it's really worth it. A CLA should be cheap, if they ask for more, look for someone else.
I paid a total of 60 Euro for CLA two cameras , fixing the FM2 ( wrong shutter speeds), and an OM-1 ( winder would not return).
There were also the Nikormat EL and ELW cameras.
My repair tech advises against the electronic Nikkormats.
Why do you not show or talk about the Nikon EL line? Then were the sister to the FTn line.
The electronic Nikkormats (EL, ELW, EL2) are cursed with primitive, unreliable electronics. I don't recommend them.
If you think the FM2 prices are outa hand... what would you say about FM3a prices... 🤯
The FM3a is a darn nice camera. If you've got the money, then by all means, treat yourself.