As an Electrician, Eaton/Cooper has always been my residential preference. I have replaced many failed Leviton devices over the years, problems like cracked or broken plastic housings and worn out contacts that no longer hold the plugs properly leading to shorts and arcs.
I added a bunch of outlets to our garage recently, and we had to go with eaton because I wanted grey outlets. We normally just buy whatever is cheaper, but installing the Eaton was SO MUCH EASIER than all the levitons I've installed through the years. I had a 10 pack of levitons sitting in my garage, and I donated them to goodwill. Eaton for life now!
We had a circuit go off in our home recently. I replaced the breaker but 'no-go'. I watched a bunch of your videos and learned so much. Soon I was suspecting my outlets had been backstabbed. I got these same commercial outlets from Eaton, bought a plug-in tester and AC Voltage detector, went to the first plug in the circuit with breaker off, after checking again for power I pulled the outlet out and yes, one wire became unplugged (bad backstabbing!) as I pulled it out. It had a lot of corrosion on it (32 year old house). I put in the new outlet and it works just fine now! I did get a box of ten, and we have several plugs that fall out, so gradually I'll replace the troublesome ones first over time. I decided I also should add another outlet further up the wall so I can plug my computer in higher and conceal the cables better. Thanks for the great info!
Judging on external features I like the Eaton for - back plate pinching - insulation stripping slots - strip length guide With internal discovery - double screw fastened front plate - parallel electrode to lower contact resistance and runs cooler In the future I’d go for Eaton.
Overall very helpful to a homeowner. Selecting a commercial-grade outlet seems the better initial decision, then an Eaton based on this video with a simple & secure wire insertion. So much wiring appears to have originally have been developed a century ago with cumbersome connections, diverse screw heads and no consistency. Your videos are wonderful for the novice and others.
Great breakdown and analysis! Thank you for doing this! The other Eaton secret feature is the plate screw grabber - "Screw catch (TM)". You can push in the plate screw, it will catch on the plastic and hold. So no hands required to hold the plate or screw, while you transition to a screwdriver. Extra nice when mounting on a ceiling.
I do appreciate this video. I've been an electrician for 24 years and have used both brands. I have found the Leviton brand to be made of better materials. The side terminal screws on the Eaton strip and leave loose connections. I have seen both brands overheat due to loose connections. The difference that I've seen in the two is the Eaton one melts, and the Leviton one warps and gets discolored.
I really like videos like this as a landlord I really think this is a great way to get my monies worth..and you explain it all so well.subscriber for life. ..most of the houses I rent are older homes so I've had an electrician come fix them I trusted his suggestions because hes older.but hes now gone and I'm finding out that the younger gen dont have his style or his class of perfection.so now I'm trying to do it all myself which is harder then one would think.
Wow! I am persuaded that the Eaton is a much better outlet. the tougher build, the back wiring, and especially plug contacts inside, that alone is worth the difference in price. Thanks for this video.
I've always preferred the commercial grade receptacle to the cheapest. Until this video I thought the Leviton was the best, but after seeing this comparison I will definitely be using the Eaton from now on. Thank you for doing this video.
For future reviews, you should really only get Tamper Resistant outlets if you are aiming at residential viewers as it is required by code effectively everywhere now. Also it is an issue that it is still hard to find commercial grade outlets with TR at big box stores. I use Leviton because of what you mentioned, availability. It is Home Despot's primary brand. Don't have lowes around to know what they have but our smaller hardware stores have some eaton and legrand.
The strength of the backwire connection is what sold me on the Eaton (then Cooper) way long ago. It was the first time I felt I wasn't skimping when I did a backwire instead of a sidewire. I was surprised by the results of the survey. In the beginning I thought all receptacles were the same, or that nuances didn't matter much. But after replacing receptacles with loose backwires (yes backwires, not push-ins - although replaced bad ones of those more), I noticed they all weren't the same. The ones that worked well were the Eatons (then Coopers). Bonus, I find the Eaton backwire easier to use than Leviton's. The hard stop when the wire goes in to the same place every time, the reliable grab of backwire plate, it's a solid action. The Leviton can involve a little fiddling to be in the right spot, and you can push the wire too far onto the insulation. However, Eaton's sidewire can take practice to get good on. If you don't get the length+angle of the wire and loop right or you are pressuring the screw the wrong way, you can spend a minute or more fighting to get it in. It is doable quickly, though, just have to learn it.
@@illestofdemall13 In regards to a loop, I was talking about when sidewiring. This is where the wire goes around the screw, and pressured between the screw head and the plate.
My good man,, Leviton is predominate because of history. I'm 40 years in on construction... reliability, name recognition, durability, over the years. That does not mean they cannot be superceded! I will be looking into the Eaton brand.
Leviton is pretty much my default switch and outlet provider when I'm doing something around my house. It comes down to features and options. around my area, either HD or Lowes, it mainly comes down that Leviton has a lot more of the readily available market for specialty switches and outlets. When I update an outlet, I usually am adding a Combo USB charger, or updating a GFCI outlet. It comes down that Leviton is the one I can walk in and buy easiest. Same for Dimmer or other control type switches.
I am a retired journeyman electrician and over the years I always preferred the Leviton units, but after viewing this video, I think now the Eaton may be a better unit because mechanically it appears a bit more robust than the Leviton. I never used the push in terminations in all receptacles because I thought they were lest sturdy than the push in type, so it took just a bit more time to use the J-Hook application, but I felt better because I thought it was more electrically sound. Now if I were still a practicing electrician, I would go for the Eaton receptacle.
I'm a landlord, and I use the Eaton when I have to replace a worn out outlet, precisely because of the backwire feature. I used to use the cheap residential outlets, until one time when I accidentally bought a box of commercial outlets. It turned out the backwire feature made it so much easier to use that it was well worth the extra money, not to mention that they'll last much longer. So, now I get nothing but Eaton commercial.
so fyi. backwire is normally done in residential due to the speed (which usually equals shortcuts) in the commercial world, more times than not, its spec'd out to be sidewire (J hook) and prohibits backwiring cuz of the failure rate.
I recently installed a leviton commercial outlet to replace the OEM residential whose contacts had worn out. The Eaton is MUCH easier to backwire. I had trouble getting my wire under the Leviton's plate. It wasn't too hard, but wasn't as easy as the Eaton.
Scott I agree with you about using the Eaton receptacle. The rear access and construction of the unit. I can understand the reluctance of buying the more expensive receptacle though and I'm sure thats the driving factor. Thanks
Your videos on receptacles are amazingly comprehensive! Very well done. Leviton, Eaton, and P&S are my preferred brands. But I buy above the residential spec devices, I'd rather spend a little more for the quality.
Another great informative video, thanks. I use Leviton only because of availability however I prefer Eaton when I can find them because of durability. Never had an Eaton fail but have had Levitons go up in smoke and lose there clamping force on the plug. Should have included where each one in manufactured; Mexico, China, etc.
FWIW, the fasteners holding on the Eaton cover aren't screws. They're ring-shank nails, or ring-shank studs. You'll note that the ridges are not helical, nor are there slots, recesses, or flats that would give a driver purchase. The stud is merely pressed into the plastic and the rings keep it from backing out. Just in case you need to order some.
Good call, I have traditionally used Leviton until i recently bought a box of Eatons at Lowes. The Eaton is far superior as the plate design is so much easier to work with. The leviton plate tends to get in the way with gravity where the Eaton stays put. This makes a big difference if you are using stranded THHN so you dont get a flying lead (one of the small wires thast doesnt go into the slot).
As an electrician... These particular backwire features of both brands I would use for stranded wire only. At one time before these better backwires existed on the commercial receps, stranded wire was required by some municipalities code enforcement to have spades, such as: Sta-Kon, 3M, Panduit, etc., to be crimped onto the stranded wire before putting under a screw. With these commercial backwires, they do seem to hold stranded wires quite well. I would like to see pull ratings done using solid wire conductors on these backwires. The fault I find with these, is the screws were never tightened enough and when you fold the wires back into the boxes it moves the wire under the pressure plates causing looseness and becomes a hot spot. If using solid, I still wrap around the screw. When using receptacles in a circuit run... I make all my wires up and put under a wire nut. I leave a single set of pigtails out of the box to wrap around the outlet screw. If the outlet fails.. it doesn't affect the rest of the circuit.
I much prefer the Eaton's, even with the extra cost. I like the backwire feature too. I've had that in a lot of commercial buildings, just seems stronger/safer.
Easton’s seems more robust. When you run 15 amp repeatedly, the metal gets hot, plastic softens, expands, repeat , repeat... contact force decreases, the male cable strands heat. You can feel and see the cord finding it’s ‘natural’ shape. So I would spend the extra dimes to save working on weakened extension cords. (Or lessening cool down time on saws and drills)
I subscribed and liked. You are right about the worthless algorithm. I watch one video I don't like and it gets suggested over and over. I have taken apart some old outlets that I replaced just because I take a lot of things apart but it doesn't help for comparing new products. Thank you for doing that for me.
I got thinking about the Eaton strip feature and can actually envision a late-night event where I have a screw driver handy and open the box and woah, the stripped wire is broken so I could just use the stripping feature, otherwise it seems like a slower process. But if your plier has fallen off your belt and you just want to get the job done - slow is better than a trip back for another tool.
You just sold me on the Eaton spec grade receptacles. But I have standardized on using Leviton GFCI receptacles. I like the green light in the corner that says it is on and working. Eaton has a nice pdf brochure online with the new changes in NEC 2020. On page 5, there is a real handy chart that compares what is required for GFCI and AFCI in each of the past NEC versions. Google "2020 NEC Code changes brochure eaton" and look at page 5.
Great video, I love seeing things broken down and compared on this level, very informative. Would love to see this done with their GFCI outlets as well!!
Regarding the internal builds of these, Leviton should last longer with something plugged in over a long period of time because of the "spring like" pressure on both sides of each flat prong, while the Eaton should last longer when used in an application that sees a lot of plugging and unplugging like in a hotel where the outlet is used for vacuums. I use Leviton because that's what I have available where I live, but the Eaton is much burlier of a build.
Wow i thought i was the only one that has music start playing whenever i start doing something after explaining stuff, now i know im not going crazy, this video was worth that if anything thanks.
Another feature you didn't mention that favors the Eaton, the ease of inserting the wire. With Eaton, you push the screw, which is easy. With Leviton, you have to let the back plate fall away with gravity to make room for the wire, which is super annoying. It always seems to fall into the way. I much prefer Eaton's method.
Yes, I agree. Sometimes gravity doesn't work when the receptacle isn't facing in the correct position. With the Eaton it doesn't matter which way it is facing. It's worth the extra expense not to have to fight with it.
@@davidamoritz Who in their right mind would run stranded wire to a receptacle. Stranded wire can't handle the heavy electrical loads solid wire can. I would run stranded wire for lighting only.
Handy tip: if your dealing with stranded wire on a bolt down, like a terminal block, twist the strands counter clockwise. Wrap your Jay clock wise, n tighten snuggled 🙂 hope this helps
In the past, I usually bought Levition, believing in the quality. Eaton is better overall because of your video. In time people will switch over to Eaton because of their quality. I would think that the reason most people buy Leviton is Eaton is not that well known.
HD is around the corner from my house. For one off, I get the Leviton at HD. For a larger project, I get the Eaton from Lowes. I used only Eaton in my addition. Much easier to work with. I also knew that the Eaton had the internals of a 20A outlet with the face of a 15A outlet.
*If* you happen to see this, there is one thing your missed that is really quite important from a quality perspective: The 110/240v blade connectors on the Eaton are nearly impossible to spring, thus they last several years longer than the Leviton without failing to hold the device plugged into them. Leviton's "edge" and thus their "popularity" on the dealer side stem from price. If you want longevity, and I'm talking in decades here, go with Eaton. If you want "good enough for most purposes and to get buy the initial homeowner before they sell and move, go with Leviton. They both have their place. After building this place in 1995-1997, this year I "get to" replace about 30 Leviton 110v receptacles in my home because they are all sprung and do not safely grasp the blades of the plug being inserted. - The pro's know, it's all about the $$ -
Yeah I’m a fan of the Eaton products throughout their portfolio. Cooper was a good acquisition years ago and the Arrow Hart brand always made a good commercial grade outlet.
I just bought a "Box of stuff" from the local Home Hardware (A Canadian Firm) for curbside pickup, and the receptacles were Eaton. I was kind of impressed with the build quality. All of the receptacles mentioned are CSA approved of course, and at the present time, getting any kind of products during a Pandemic can be a challenge. So I was willing to take whatever they had on offer. I'm not a big fan of Home Despot in the best of times, and they've proven to be blatantly incompetent during the Pandemic at trying to do any kind of organised shopping over the last year. Wasted too much time trying to get product from them. Enjoyed the video. Carry on!
I've been changing out all the receptacles in a home I bought and I installed the basic boxes of Eaton. I've used these on every home I've owned and never had an issue.
One feature of the Eaton I don't see mentioned is how the faceplate screw works. On install, the faceplate screw gets pushed into the small plastic tabs (notice the three sided hole?) and is held in place while you straighten the screw and plate for alignment. It seems that the Eaton is designed completely for a single tool install and specifically for a faster install. I think in a race, a tech could install many more Eaton plugs than the Leviton in the same time frame, and if your job was to install plugs on a complete floor of a condo complex, once you got used to the Eaton, you could do it all will just a drill driver, then go back with faceplates and finish.
The Eaton outlet and switch designs were originally from a company called Eagle. They were made as far back as the 70s I believe. In 2002, they were bought by Cooper, and new design revisions included the distinctive ears with the built in wire strippers. Recently, as you said, Eaton bought Cooper. I think that particular Leviton design has been around for a while, but maybe not as long.
The Eaton has another hidden feature. The hole in the center, for the cover-plate screw, is triangular; you can put the plate on and just press the screw into position, and the sides of that tiny triangle grip the screw & hold it while you get the screwdriver.
You are right I completely missed that feature and that is super handy. Maybe I should do a quick story (15 second video) and call out the feature. Thanks for the feedback 👍
History and availability. Always used Leviton and never a problem. Leviton is the brand at Home Despot - greatly influencing availability. Lowe's too far away for me. Menards - Midwest big box home center - sells LeGrand/Pass and Seymour - a brand I remember from the 50's. Interested in seeing that one from the inside.
Thanks for the feedback actually I am also interested in taking a looking at both the Legrand (PS) and Hubbell as a good number of people in the comments recommend those 2 brands.
Great video. As a retired electrician who still does odd jobs here and there, both brands a good brands. One has to nit-pick at each one to determine if there are any cons. Personally, I like Leviton. In your demo you showed the back side, and the Leviton model had backwire connections not as good as the Eaton. My preference is Leviton's Decora line. Decora spec grade #16252 (15A) has identical backwire connections as the Eaton. I love the ease and safety the backwire type offer. And as you have said here and in other of your videos, commercial grade (AKA spec grade) is far superior than residential grade and worth the price. Keep up the good videos.
Great video. I am amazed by the pricing. I have used Leviton, Copper, and Eaton that all look 100% the same as the Leviton you are using in the $2 ranges. For more the brands will look just like he Eaton you were comparing. So I imagine it depends very much where you live, would def spend the few more cents if it were like that here.
Leviton name is more familiar to me. After video I’m going with Eaton and that’s good cause I mostly shop Lowe’s. Thanks for info. Can’t wait to see second video.
Actually like the contact on the Eaton. The one thing that drives me crazy is plugs falling out of the receptacles after a few years use. The wire strip is fairly useless unless you are a DIYer with no strippers available.
The metal tabs on the Eaton receptacles are beefier. I had no idea they were designed beefy to strip wiring. Thanks for letting me know but I'll probably stick to my Knipex strippers. I like Eaton receptacles because the tabs seem to provide additional outlet support for sloppy box installations. Leviton was my preferred brand before discovering the Eaton's gave me a sturdier outlet. I absolutely despise spongee feel receptacles.
Great point. Way too much flex on cheaper outlets, especially the consumer grade. Doesn't affect anything to my knowledge but certainly feels better when plugging and unplugging things to have it solid and not bend back.
I'm replacing all the receptacles in our home with these Eaton spec grade. I do like them and find the back wiring to be preferred using the terminal screws to make all connections secure. The Eaton is made to 20 amp specs and is only rated for 15'amps due to the 15 amp plug pattern. I did find it more difficult to get a J hook under the screw with the Eaton design.
Last summer I rewired my whole garage. I used Leviton branded 20A receptacles. I used 20A because they should be more heavy duty than the 15A. I as well chose Leviton because it's readily available at Home Depot. If I could choose any brand without leaving the store, I'd probably choose Legrand simply because it's a business which is local to Syracuse NY which is where I'm from.
In my experience Leviton devices sit more flush with the plate, and Eaton sits a bit proud, with the wall being perfect. if there are any imperfections in the drywall, than it is easy for the Leviton devices to have the device sitting almost behind the plate leaving a gap. This makes the Eaton devices easier to install for me, so I prefer them from that standpoint. P&S (Legrand) devices seem to install similar to Eaton, however they have a more matte finish to them which I prefer over the shiny plastic (easily shows scratches) of Eaton and Leviton. Curious to see the other brands broken open, but I'd personally rate P&S > Eaton > Leviton. (haven't had any experience with hubbell)
Yesterday I was installing some receptacles in my work shop / shed and ran out. I was using Eaton But bought Leviton. The difference was noticeable and I will only buy Eaton from now on. I wish I saw this before buying the leviton.
Most Leviton devices are still made in the USA but the last Eaton I bought was made in Mexico. I don’t think country of origin necessarily affects quality, but I do prefer to support American workers.
I worked for a production/manufacturing company who has the Eaton contract. I made what we called "loose parts" which were then sent to Mexico, assembled, then sent back to the US. I assure you, these were made at a very minimum production, and usually took about 1-2 weeks out of the year to make. I worked for this company for 22 years, starting when they first obtained the contract and were still getting the machines into production.The rest of the time, our machines made and assembled the complete part including making the molds for the housings, Brass coils making the terminals, stampers/press machines doing the galvinized strap and final production which puts all the parts together and packages them up. So my point started out as saying, the parts are still made in the US, but a rare amount of them are assembled in Mexico. To this day though, I still do not understand why they did this, just figured somehow they were saving a few bucks for coffee doing it lol.
I have around 25 receptacles and I have ease of access to both Lowes and Home Depot, first thing I noticed was Home Depot (Leviton) was a little cheaper so I really wanted to see the side by side comparison. I do really like the back wire the Eaton offers. Plus with the amount of outlets I'm installing the difference is only a couple dollars. I had seen the wire stripper before, but I see people use a utility knife from their pocket over that feature. Great video, thanks for the help in making my decision.
I'm a residential electrician apprentice. I've installed hundreds of Leviton and Eaton outlets. I'd take Eaton any day. I find it very difficult to get my loops around the screws on Leviton. And thats with 14 and 12 gauge.
ALSO, I LIKE THE PLUG BLADE FUNNEL GUIDE ON THE EATON. IF YOU ARE PLUGGING IN, IN THE DARK, THE PLUG WILL FUNNEL INTO THE RECEPTACLE ON THE EATON EASIER. IT IS CLEARLY WORTH THE LOUSY EXTRA QUARTER COST ON BULK, FOR THE EATON FEATURES, IMO.
For those of us that have been doing electrical I remember when Cooper bought Eagle Electrical in 2000 then Eaton bought Cooper. I always stuck with that brand as it has always worked for me with no issues.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes that is correct. I think at that the time Cooper had bought Arrow Hart at the same time the acquisition of Eagle was done. Eagle since 1921 had the motto on their packaging : Perfection is not an accident.
I like the Eaton because when back wiring when you insert the end of the wire its fully incapsulated so you cant see the end of the wire. I just installed some Leviton and had to hold the wire steady while tightening the screw so it did not go in to far. not a big deal, but Eaton goes in the right depth and that's it.
Leviton is all any of our local electrical Distributors carry, plus I can go big box if necessary for pickup items...so thats what we've always used. Maybe not the best available but at least "available". And perfectly adequate in my 45 yr experience.
Leviton seems to dominate the market, so many people do not see or know about the other brands out there. The same is true with breakers. In the US it seems like Square D and Cutler Hammer have like 90% of the market, with the remaining 10% GE, Seimins, and a handful of others. I have noticed that a lot of industry/commercial use Square D, whereas residential is mostly Cutler Hammer. The two also operate differently, Square D trips and the toggle goes to the center position and a orange flag shows up in a window, to reset you push to the full off position and then back to on. Cutler Hammer breakers look like a large light switch toggle, there is no trip position, it trips and snaps to the off position, thus there is no indication of a short/overload or if someone flipped it off. Also any double pole breakers (such as the main disconnect, or any 240 volt circuits) on the CH are two breakers with a locking bar between them, whereas SD locks them together internality with a single toggle operating it.
I work for Eaton. I don’t work in the plant that manufactures these though. I work in a plant where we manufacture explosion and non explosion parts for the fuel and lighting industry. One good perk about being an employee, we get special discount pricing in their products, so when I go to purchase my home, I’ll be placing an order with Eaton to replace everything in the house.
Good Comparison between Leviton and Eaton outlets. I also prefer Eaton outlet. Eaton just seems to be better than Leviton and both are very economical.
Yeah, to be honest the price is pretty reasonable for what you are getting. I have no problem spending the $2.00 per unit compared to the cheap $0.50 receptacles.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the price per unit are surprisingly cheap. It costs less than a cup of coffee at Peet. 👻 I would rather pay more to get good quality Outlets that would last and safe. Beside Leviton and Eaton, Is there any better quality outlet with larger capacity and/or more safety feature for home and commercial use in the market? Thank you for making such a good video😹👻😂👍
Thanks for your video. Eaton is, as per your revelation of Quality of design makes them The Choice for future purchases. T-bone clamping as opposed to being merely bent over, would explain why, in this old House of mine, I'm finding a need to schedule some replacements due to their too loose fitting.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you. I especially like the internal review. Much heavier build. The configuration of the connector would actually work for a 30 amp double outlet if I am not mistaken.
Finally i have the answer to the question that no one at Home Despot or Much Lowers can answer: Why the difference in $? Better design/ engineering= quality. Seeing the guts of them is all what's needed.
I have never liked Leviton, because they sell so much cheap stuff. I did buy one recently only because it was to be dedicated to a CO detector, so I won’t be plugging things in all the time. I hate those child-proof shutters. For my new kitchen outlets, I have Eaton/Cooper commercial grade without the shutters. These are Eagles. Eagle used to be a separate brand. They don’t use the name any more, but the part numbers start with “EAG.” The other thing I like about the Eatons is being able to get my preferred color (light almond).
Being raised in our family home and helping family to do circuit repairs and additions, I did not even know there was other makers as I have never seen them sold. Just Leviton's 15 and 20 Amp. I think the 20 amp has better connection tabs inside so grip plugs much better so I use them. I love all the Eaton features.
Hey I have a video suggestion that you might be interested in trying. I always wanted to see someone do a Demostration of an Electrical Fire starting. Is there a way that you can biuld a small fake wall and run wires through studs and so on and "mimmock" a real electrical fire scenario by showing the dangers or space heaters and lots of amerage load on typical outlet and show how it heats the wiring up and how a fire don't just start in the electrical junction boc but can heat an entire wire up. It would be cool! I have been wanting to do one. I might one day but I just do not have the "Views" and feel like no oe would care to se my videos.
Electrical engineer here, that has performed many electrical fire investigations. Far and away the most common fire scenario is a loose connection at the receptacle. Relatively rare is a situation that will “heat the entire wire up” and cause a fire. Another common “old wive’s tale” is an overdriven staple pinching the Romex causing a fire - it is possible but really difficult in reality.
The Leviton Commercial Grade receptacle that is illustrated in this video appears to be Leviton's so called "Plus" Model which you can find at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as CBR15 and it sells for $ 2.18 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as CBR20 and it sells for $ 3.28 - Leviton's next Grade up from their Commercial Grade is known as their Industrial Grade "Plus Pro" which are the models which I very much prefer - Their Industrial line is also available at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as 5252 and it sells for $ 6.28 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as 5352 and it sells for $ 7.28 - Relatively speaking, their Industrial line costs about 3 times as much as their Commercial line but they are worth it - The Back Wire terminals of their Industrial line looks very much like the Eaton receptacle that is shown in this video in that the Back Wire connection terminals have two molded slots per terminal which will allow you to firmly attach two wires to each said terminal if the need should arise - The Ground terminal of their Industrial line ("Plus Pro") also offers a Back Wire (clamp/screw) connection which their Commercial line does not - Their Commercial line ("Plus") only has a screw (no clamp apparatus) - The Ground terminal of the Eaton receptacle shown in this video also appears to be the same as the Leviton (screw only - no clamp apparatus) - When installing High Grade receptacles which come with Back Wire connection terminals, my preference is to use the Back Wire Connection terminals - In my opinion, a Back Wire connection is (1) easier / quicker to connect than a Side Wire connection, (2) is just as firm as a Side Wire connection, (3) seems to make it easier to push the receptacle back into the box than what a Side Wire connection does and (4) in certain installs, such as Split Feeds, you might need to attach two wires to a single terminal which a Side Wire connection does not allow you to do (prohibited by Code) - In summary, buy Leviton's Industrial Grade receptacles and use the Back Wire connection terminals to make all your connections
A Duplex receptacle has two plugs (an upper and a lower) which are normally joined / connected together by a Common Fin on both sides (Hot terminal sides and the Neutral terminal sides) of the receptacle when you first buy them - The Common Fins can be broken off which will allow you to feed each plug separately - There are several different wiring configurations that you can use when you wire up a Duplex receptacle in Split Feed mode - Basically, the wiring configuration that you will use will depend on what you are trying to accomplish - I will give you the two most common applications of a Split Feed - Probably the most common application is in a high demand area such as a Kitchen or Workshop, where you might want each plug of the receptacle to be from a different circuit - In this case, you will need two hot wires coming into the box from two different circuits - Normally, this is done with one cable which would contain two hot wires (normally, a color coded Black wire and a color coded Red wire), a Neutral wire and a Ground wire - Normally, only the Hot Common Fin is broken off leaving the Neutral Common Fin intact - You would connect one hot wire to the hot terminal of one plug and the other hot wire to the hot terminal of the other plug - The Neutral wire can be connected to the Neutral terminal of either plug - The other most common application is were you wire up one plug to be constantly on and the other plug to be controlled from an upstream switch - The upstream switch is most commonly your every day wall switch that you would normally use to turn on a lamp that is plugged into the receptacle that is controlled by the switch - In this case, you can either use two hot wires fed from two different circuits or two hot wires from the same circuit - In this setup, the Hot Common fin would be broken off - The Neutral Common Fin is normally left intact but could be broken off if you are supplying the box with two separate cables which would have two separate neutrals - The answer to your specific question "why would you want to connect two wires to the Black terminal" is as follows - In a split feed configuration, the Hot terminal of each plug is supplied with a separate Hot wire which may or may not be from the same circuit and which may or not be controlled by an upstream switch - No matter what Split Feed configuration you decide to use, you will always have at least one Hot wire attached to the Hot terminal of each plug - With that being said, your question now becomes >> Why do you need to attach another Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals of one of the plugs - The answer is >> You don’t always need a third Hot wire - Again, as I mentioned, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish - The most common reason for attaching an extra Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals is >> Most electricians, in an effort to save time and money, will wire up their circuits in a Daisy Chain configuration which means that each receptacle box in the chain / circuit will be wired up with one incoming cable supplying power into the box and one outgoing cable to supply power to all other downstream receptacles in the chain / Circuit - The Hot wire of the outgoing cable would need to be connected to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs in order to feed the other receptacles downstream - In the alternative, rather than connecting the Hot wire of the outgoing cable to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs and the Neutral wire to one of the Neutral terminals and Ground wire to the Ground terminal, some electricians will use a so called Pigtail configuration which I do not prefer - In a Pigtail configuration, NONE of the outgoing cable wires are connected to the receptacle - See my other post at th-cam.com/video/_rRa_CedJ38/w-d-xo.html which explains my position regarding the use of Pigtails on High Grade recepatacles - Reply back if you still have questions
@@rjtumble As an example of one of the things you can do. I needed to wire a lamp (that had a failed switch). Built a small box, installed an outlet and split it. One was always hot, for a phone charger, the other was wired to a switch to turn the lamp off and on.
As an Electrician, Eaton/Cooper has always been my residential preference. I have replaced many failed Leviton devices over the years, problems like cracked or broken plastic housings and worn out contacts that no longer hold the plugs properly leading to shorts and arcs.
I added a bunch of outlets to our garage recently, and we had to go with eaton because I wanted grey outlets. We normally just buy whatever is cheaper, but installing the Eaton was SO MUCH EASIER than all the levitons I've installed through the years. I had a 10 pack of levitons sitting in my garage, and I donated them to goodwill. Eaton for life now!
Why they are the same installation process? You backwire them.
@@killer-gaming Did you not watch this video? Scott literally explained why Eaton's back wiring is better.
We had a circuit go off in our home recently. I replaced the breaker but 'no-go'.
I watched a bunch of your videos and learned so much. Soon I was suspecting my outlets had been backstabbed. I got these same commercial outlets from Eaton, bought a plug-in tester and AC Voltage detector, went to the first plug in the circuit with breaker off, after checking again for power I pulled the outlet out and yes, one wire became unplugged (bad backstabbing!) as I pulled it out. It had a lot of corrosion on it (32 year old house).
I put in the new outlet and it works just fine now!
I did get a box of ten, and we have several plugs that fall out, so gradually I'll replace the troublesome ones first over time.
I decided I also should add another outlet further up the wall so I can plug my computer in higher and conceal the cables better.
Thanks for the great info!
I typically buy Leviton because of availability. I like what I saw on the Eaton and will look for them next time. DIYer
Judging on external features I like the Eaton for
- back plate pinching
- insulation stripping slots
- strip length guide
With internal discovery
- double screw fastened front plate
- parallel electrode to lower contact resistance and runs cooler
In the future I’d go for Eaton.
Overall very helpful to a homeowner. Selecting a commercial-grade outlet seems the better initial decision, then an Eaton based on this video with a simple & secure wire insertion. So much wiring appears to have originally have been developed a century ago with cumbersome connections, diverse screw heads and no consistency. Your videos are wonderful for the novice and others.
Great breakdown and analysis! Thank you for doing this! The other Eaton secret feature is the plate screw grabber - "Screw catch (TM)". You can push in the plate screw, it will catch on the plastic and hold. So no hands required to hold the plate or screw, while you transition to a screwdriver. Extra nice when mounting on a ceiling.
Nice, I didn’t know about the Screw Catch. Thanks for the info 👍
Thanks!
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔
Thanks! Anytime a feature is revealed that makes a job easier is well appreciated. 👍
Well done. I can confirm Lowes has the Eaton product Sept 2023. I bought a bulk pack and installed them today. It’s a superior product under $3.
I do appreciate this video. I've been an electrician for 24 years and have used both brands. I have found the Leviton brand to be made of better materials. The side terminal screws on the Eaton strip and leave loose connections. I have seen both brands overheat due to loose connections. The difference that I've seen in the two is the Eaton one melts, and the Leviton one warps and gets discolored.
I just want to give you a word of encouragement. This video was really useful, and I'm glad I took time to watch it. Thank you!
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔......,
I really like videos like this as a landlord I really think this is a great way to get my monies worth..and you explain it all so well.subscriber for life. ..most of the houses I rent are older homes so I've had an electrician come fix them I trusted his suggestions because hes older.but hes now gone and I'm finding out that the younger gen dont have his style or his class of perfection.so now I'm trying to do it all myself which is harder then one would think.
Wow! I am persuaded that the Eaton is a much better outlet. the tougher build, the back wiring, and especially plug contacts inside, that alone is worth the difference in price. Thanks for this video.
Eaton for sure. Definitely love the back-wire feature. I've cranked down pretty hard and never stripped one out.
I've always preferred the commercial grade receptacle to the cheapest. Until this video I thought the Leviton was the best, but after seeing this comparison I will definitely be using the Eaton from now on. Thank you for doing this video.
For future reviews, you should really only get Tamper Resistant outlets if you are aiming at residential viewers as it is required by code effectively everywhere now. Also it is an issue that it is still hard to find commercial grade outlets with TR at big box stores. I use Leviton because of what you mentioned, availability. It is Home Despot's primary brand. Don't have lowes around to know what they have but our smaller hardware stores have some eaton and legrand.
The strength of the backwire connection is what sold me on the Eaton (then Cooper) way long ago. It was the first time I felt I wasn't skimping when I did a backwire instead of a sidewire. I was surprised by the results of the survey. In the beginning I thought all receptacles were the same, or that nuances didn't matter much. But after replacing receptacles with loose backwires (yes backwires, not push-ins - although replaced bad ones of those more), I noticed they all weren't the same. The ones that worked well were the Eatons (then Coopers).
Bonus, I find the Eaton backwire easier to use than Leviton's. The hard stop when the wire goes in to the same place every time, the reliable grab of backwire plate, it's a solid action. The Leviton can involve a little fiddling to be in the right spot, and you can push the wire too far onto the insulation. However, Eaton's sidewire can take practice to get good on. If you don't get the length+angle of the wire and loop right or you are pressuring the screw the wrong way, you can spend a minute or more fighting to get it in. It is doable quickly, though, just have to learn it.
Good stuff RJ and thanks for all the feedback.
What loop? You put the wire in straight, so I am confused by what you said.
@@illestofdemall13 In regards to a loop, I was talking about when sidewiring. This is where the wire goes around the screw, and pressured between the screw head and the plate.
@@RJ-ej1nr Got it now, thanks. I never make a loop when the have the clamp/plate, so I guess I kind of forgot you can still use them that way. Lol
My good man,, Leviton is predominate because of history. I'm 40 years in on construction... reliability, name recognition, durability, over the years. That does not mean they cannot be superceded! I will be looking into the Eaton brand.
Love your channel. Always showing some cool stuff. Love plumbing and electrical which are my favorites. Please keep it coming!
Will do Beo, thanks for the kind words 👍
Leviton is pretty much my default switch and outlet provider when I'm doing something around my house. It comes down to features and options. around my area, either HD or Lowes, it mainly comes down that Leviton has a lot more of the readily available market for specialty switches and outlets. When I update an outlet, I usually am adding a Combo USB charger, or updating a GFCI outlet. It comes down that Leviton is the one I can walk in and buy easiest. Same for Dimmer or other control type switches.
Find em on sale more often too
Ditto, and I have standardized on Leveton WiFi switches.
I am a retired journeyman electrician and over the years I always preferred the Leviton units, but after viewing this video, I think now the Eaton may be a better unit because mechanically it appears a bit more robust than the Leviton. I never used the push in terminations in all receptacles because I thought they were lest sturdy than the push in type, so it took just a bit more time to use the J-Hook application, but I felt better because I thought it was more electrically sound. Now if I were still a practicing electrician, I would go for the Eaton receptacle.
I'm a landlord, and I use the Eaton when I have to replace a worn out outlet, precisely because of the backwire feature. I used to use the cheap residential outlets, until one time when I accidentally bought a box of commercial outlets. It turned out the backwire feature made it so much easier to use that it was well worth the extra money, not to mention that they'll last much longer. So, now I get nothing but Eaton commercial.
so fyi. backwire is normally done in residential due to the speed (which usually equals shortcuts) in the commercial world, more times than not, its spec'd out to be sidewire (J hook) and prohibits backwiring cuz of the failure rate.
@@bobbygecko - Are you sure the prohibition isn’t just for the push-in type of connection?
@@bobbygecko push in connections are job security for me because I'm a service tech
I recently installed a leviton commercial outlet to replace the OEM residential whose contacts had worn out. The Eaton is MUCH easier to backwire. I had trouble getting my wire under the Leviton's plate. It wasn't too hard, but wasn't as easy as the Eaton.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Very informative.
You're welcome.
I have been using the Eaton for years, especially in installations that will get a lot of use. Never had a problem. Ever.
Scott I agree with you about using the Eaton receptacle. The rear access and construction of the unit. I can understand the reluctance of buying the more expensive receptacle though and I'm sure thats the driving factor. Thanks
Your videos on receptacles are amazingly comprehensive! Very well done. Leviton, Eaton, and P&S are my preferred brands. But I buy above the residential spec devices, I'd rather spend a little more for the quality.
Another great informative video, thanks. I use Leviton only because of availability however I prefer Eaton when I can find them because of durability. Never had an Eaton fail but have had Levitons go up in smoke and lose there clamping force on the plug. Should have included where each one in manufactured; Mexico, China, etc.
FWIW, the fasteners holding on the Eaton cover aren't screws. They're ring-shank nails, or ring-shank studs. You'll note that the ridges are not helical, nor are there slots, recesses, or flats that would give a driver purchase. The stud is merely pressed into the plastic and the rings keep it from backing out.
Just in case you need to order some.
Good call, I have traditionally used Leviton until i recently bought a box of Eatons at Lowes. The Eaton is far superior as the plate design is so much easier to work with. The leviton plate tends to get in the way with gravity where the Eaton stays put. This makes a big difference if you are using stranded THHN so you dont get a flying lead (one of the small wires thast doesnt go into the slot).
EATON HAS AND ALWAYS WILL BE MY GO TO OUTLET BEEN USING THIS FOR YEARS.
Is the quality still there now that it’s just another label for Chinese goods?
As an electrician... These particular backwire features of both brands I would use for stranded wire only.
At one time before these better backwires existed on the commercial receps, stranded wire was required by some municipalities code enforcement to have spades, such as: Sta-Kon, 3M, Panduit, etc., to be crimped onto the stranded wire before putting under a screw.
With these commercial backwires, they do seem to hold stranded wires quite well.
I would like to see pull ratings done using solid wire conductors on these backwires.
The fault I find with these, is the screws were never tightened enough and when you fold the wires back into the boxes it moves the wire under the pressure plates causing looseness and becomes a hot spot. If using solid, I still wrap around the screw.
When using receptacles in a circuit run... I make all my wires up and put under a wire nut. I leave a single set of pigtails out of the box to wrap around the outlet screw. If the outlet fails.. it doesn't affect the rest of the circuit.
Thanks for the comments and feedback. 👍
I much prefer the Eaton's, even with the extra cost. I like the backwire feature too. I've had that in a lot of commercial buildings, just seems stronger/safer.
Agreed 👍 Thanks for the feedback.
Eatons the better plug and when running commercial stranded wire the Eton is easy to install.
Easton’s seems more robust. When you run 15 amp repeatedly, the metal gets hot, plastic softens, expands, repeat , repeat... contact force decreases, the male cable strands heat. You can feel and see the cord finding it’s ‘natural’ shape. So I would spend the extra dimes to save working on weakened extension cords. (Or lessening cool down time on saws and drills)
@@davidamoritz same with light switches?
@@randomrazr yes the upper brands not the cheap ones
I subscribed and liked. You are right about the worthless algorithm. I watch one video I don't like and it gets suggested over and over. I have taken apart some old outlets that I replaced just because I take a lot of things apart but it doesn't help for comparing new products. Thank you for doing that for me.
Happy to help and welcome to the channel 👍
I got thinking about the Eaton strip feature and can actually envision a late-night event where I have a screw driver handy and open the box and woah, the stripped wire is broken so I could just use the stripping feature, otherwise it seems like a slower process. But if your plier has fallen off your belt and you just want to get the job done - slow is better than a trip back for another tool.
You just sold me on the Eaton spec grade receptacles. But I have standardized on using Leviton GFCI receptacles. I like the green light in the corner that says it is on and working. Eaton has a nice pdf brochure online with the new changes in NEC 2020. On page 5, there is a real handy chart that compares what is required for GFCI and AFCI in each of the past NEC versions. Google "2020 NEC Code changes brochure eaton" and look at page 5.
Perfect timing for me! Just started a large remodel and will use Eaton.
Thanks for the great video!
Great video, I love seeing things broken down and compared on this level, very informative. Would love to see this done with their GFCI outlets as well!!
Great video.. just bought recept for rewiring. Bought the Eaton. Super glad I did after seeing how much more robust it is.
Regarding the internal builds of these, Leviton should last longer with something plugged in over a long period of time because of the "spring like" pressure on both sides of each flat prong, while the Eaton should last longer when used in an application that sees a lot of plugging and unplugging like in a hotel where the outlet is used for vacuums. I use Leviton because that's what I have available where I live, but the Eaton is much burlier of a build.
Wow i thought i was the only one that has music start playing whenever i start doing something after explaining stuff, now i know im not going crazy, this video was worth that if anything thanks.
Another feature you didn't mention that favors the Eaton, the ease of inserting the wire. With Eaton, you push the screw, which is easy. With Leviton, you have to let the back plate fall away with gravity to make room for the wire, which is super annoying. It always seems to fall into the way. I much prefer Eaton's method.
Plus stranded wire is easier to install.
@@davidamoritz But is somewhat more dangerous because some bare ware may not enter the hole if one's lack attention.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔....,
Yes, I agree. Sometimes gravity doesn't work when the receptacle isn't facing in the correct position. With the Eaton it doesn't matter which way it is facing. It's worth the extra expense not to have to fight with it.
@@davidamoritz Who in their right mind would run stranded wire to a receptacle. Stranded wire can't handle the heavy electrical loads solid wire can. I would run stranded wire for lighting only.
I started watching this video thinking that I strongly preferred Leviton ... you've convinced me that Eaton is what I want. Nice job!
I like these videos, very informative. Who else cuts them open to see the inside!
Handy tip: if your dealing with stranded wire on a bolt down, like a terminal block, twist the strands counter clockwise. Wrap your Jay clock wise, n tighten snuggled 🙂 hope this helps
There are no stranded wires connecting plugs or switches.PERIOD.
@@felagoran7076 24volt DC command hmu, relay and door bell
@@felagoran7076 don't forget anything above 12 gage
@@felagoran7076
Where are you located and what types of properties/equipment do/have you worked on?????
In the past, I usually bought Levition, believing in the quality. Eaton is better overall because of your video. In time people will switch over to Eaton because of their quality. I would think that the reason most people buy Leviton is Eaton is not that well known.
I have both a Lowe's and Home Depot across the street from each other. I find HD is better stocked and easier to find what I need than at Lowe's.
I don’t do much dyi anymore so I wish I had seen your videos a few years back. You do a great job explaining your techniques. Great job
I am doing some repairs around the house, and know very little about residential electrical system. You comparisons are very helpful. Thanks, Scott.
Thanks for the Very Complete analysis.
Glad it was helpful!
HD is around the corner from my house. For one off, I get the Leviton at HD. For a larger project, I get the Eaton from Lowes. I used only Eaton in my addition. Much easier to work with. I also knew that the Eaton had the internals of a 20A outlet with the face of a 15A outlet.
Wow! I learned a lot watching your video. Thanks for sharing. 👍👍
*If* you happen to see this, there is one thing your missed that is really quite important from a quality perspective: The 110/240v blade connectors on the Eaton are nearly impossible to spring, thus they last several years longer than the Leviton without failing to hold the device plugged into them. Leviton's "edge" and thus their "popularity" on the dealer side stem from price. If you want longevity, and I'm talking in decades here, go with Eaton. If you want "good enough for most purposes and to get buy the initial homeowner before they sell and move, go with Leviton. They both have their place. After building this place in 1995-1997, this year I "get to" replace about 30 Leviton 110v receptacles in my home because they are all sprung and do not safely grasp the blades of the plug being inserted. - The pro's know, it's all about the $$ -
I do use Leviton but I use the Extra Heavy Duty Grade ones which do have the more robust back wiring features.
Yeah I’m a fan of the Eaton products throughout their portfolio. Cooper was a good acquisition years ago and the Arrow Hart brand always made a good commercial grade outlet.
Yeah, I think these were actually Arrow Hart, which Cooper bought, and then Eaton bought Cooper. At least that is what I can gather.
Agree. I have had wires slip out the side of Leviton clamps.
I just bought a "Box of stuff" from the local Home Hardware (A Canadian Firm) for curbside pickup, and the receptacles were Eaton. I was kind of impressed with the build quality. All of the receptacles mentioned are CSA approved of course, and at the present time, getting any kind of products during a Pandemic can be a challenge. So I was willing to take whatever they had on offer. I'm not a big fan of Home Despot in the best of times, and they've proven to be blatantly incompetent during the Pandemic at trying to do any kind of organised shopping over the last year. Wasted too much time trying to get product from them. Enjoyed the video. Carry on!
I've been changing out all the receptacles in a home I bought and I installed the basic boxes of Eaton. I've used these on every home I've owned and never had an issue.
One feature of the Eaton I don't see mentioned is how the faceplate screw works. On install, the faceplate screw gets pushed into the small plastic tabs (notice the three sided hole?) and is held in place while you straighten the screw and plate for alignment. It seems that the Eaton is designed completely for a single tool install and specifically for a faster install. I think in a race, a tech could install many more Eaton plugs than the Leviton in the same time frame, and if your job was to install plugs on a complete floor of a condo complex, once you got used to the Eaton, you could do it all will just a drill driver, then go back with faceplates and finish.
The Eaton outlet and switch designs were originally from a company called Eagle. They were made as far back as the 70s I believe. In 2002, they were bought by Cooper, and new design revisions included the distinctive ears with the built in wire strippers. Recently, as you said, Eaton bought Cooper. I think that particular Leviton design has been around for a while, but maybe not as long.
Incredible insight. Thank you!!
My pleasure!
My old home (built 1955) has all P&S. I am slowly replacing them with Leviton, as this is what my local hardware store stocks. Thanks for the video!
The Eaton has another hidden feature. The hole in the center, for the cover-plate screw, is triangular; you can put the plate on and just press the screw into position, and the sides of that tiny triangle grip the screw & hold it while you get the screwdriver.
You are right I completely missed that feature and that is super handy. Maybe I should do a quick story (15 second video) and call out the feature. Thanks for the feedback 👍
History and availability. Always used Leviton and never a problem. Leviton is the brand at Home Despot - greatly influencing availability. Lowe's too far away for me. Menards - Midwest big box home center - sells LeGrand/Pass and Seymour - a brand I remember from the 50's. Interested in seeing that one from the inside.
Thanks for the feedback actually I am also interested in taking a looking at both the Legrand (PS) and Hubbell as a good number of people in the comments recommend those 2 brands.
Great video. As a retired electrician who still does odd jobs here and there, both brands a good brands. One has to nit-pick at each one to determine if there are any cons. Personally, I like Leviton. In your demo you showed the back side, and the Leviton model had backwire connections not as good as the Eaton. My preference is Leviton's Decora line. Decora spec grade #16252 (15A) has identical backwire connections as the Eaton. I love the ease and safety the backwire type offer. And as you have said here and in other of your videos, commercial grade (AKA spec grade) is far superior than residential grade and worth the price. Keep up the good videos.
Great video. I am amazed by the pricing. I have used Leviton, Copper, and Eaton that all look 100% the same as the Leviton you are using in the $2 ranges. For more the brands will look just like he Eaton you were comparing. So I imagine it depends very much where you live, would def spend the few more cents if it were like that here.
Leviton name is more familiar to me. After video I’m going with Eaton and that’s good cause I mostly shop Lowe’s. Thanks for info. Can’t wait to see second video.
Nice analysis! 100k subscribers just around the corner. Congratulations 👏!!
Heck yeah, big milestone probably reached later this evening 🎉 Best of luck with your channel 👍
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks! Same to you.
I wish I had seen this before I did my remodel. I would have spent the extra money and got the Eaton.
Actually like the contact on the Eaton. The one thing that drives me crazy is plugs falling out of the receptacles after a few years use. The wire strip is fairly useless unless you are a DIYer with no strippers available.
The metal tabs on the Eaton receptacles are beefier. I had no idea they were designed beefy to strip wiring. Thanks for letting me know but I'll probably stick to my Knipex strippers. I like Eaton receptacles because the tabs seem to provide additional outlet support for sloppy box installations. Leviton was my preferred brand before discovering the Eaton's gave me a sturdier outlet. I absolutely despise spongee feel receptacles.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔.......,,
Never knew about the stripper. Now that I know about it, I can't say it is of value to me. I prefer to use my strippers.
Great point. Way too much flex on cheaper outlets, especially the consumer grade. Doesn't affect anything to my knowledge but certainly feels better when plugging and unplugging things to have it solid and not bend back.
I'm replacing all the receptacles in our home with these Eaton spec grade. I do like them and find the back wiring to be preferred using the terminal screws to make all connections secure. The Eaton is made to 20 amp specs and is only rated for 15'amps due to the 15 amp plug pattern. I did find it more difficult to get a J hook under the screw with the Eaton design.
Last summer I rewired my whole garage. I used Leviton branded 20A receptacles. I used 20A because they should be more heavy duty than the 15A. I as well chose Leviton because it's readily available at Home Depot. If I could choose any brand without leaving the store, I'd probably choose Legrand simply because it's a business which is local to Syracuse NY which is where I'm from.
In my experience Leviton devices sit more flush with the plate, and Eaton sits a bit proud, with the wall being perfect. if there are any imperfections in the drywall, than it is easy for the Leviton devices to have the device sitting almost behind the plate leaving a gap. This makes the Eaton devices easier to install for me, so I prefer them from that standpoint. P&S (Legrand) devices seem to install similar to Eaton, however they have a more matte finish to them which I prefer over the shiny plastic (easily shows scratches) of Eaton and Leviton.
Curious to see the other brands broken open, but I'd personally rate P&S > Eaton > Leviton. (haven't had any experience with hubbell)
Yesterday I was installing some receptacles in my work shop / shed and ran out. I was using Eaton But bought Leviton. The difference was noticeable and I will only buy Eaton from now on. I wish I saw this before buying the leviton.
Most Leviton devices are still made in the USA but the last Eaton I bought was made in Mexico. I don’t think country of origin necessarily affects quality, but I do prefer to support American workers.
Yeah, depending on which model of Eaton receptacle the country or origin can vary. I know this Eaton was made in the USA 🇺🇸 👍
I worked for a production/manufacturing company who has the Eaton contract. I made what we called "loose parts" which were then sent to Mexico, assembled, then sent back to the US. I assure you, these were made at a very minimum production, and usually took about 1-2 weeks out of the year to make. I worked for this company for 22 years, starting when they first obtained the contract and were still getting the machines into production.The rest of the time, our machines made and assembled the complete part including making the molds for the housings, Brass coils making the terminals, stampers/press machines doing the galvinized strap and final production which puts all the parts together and packages them up. So my point started out as saying, the parts are still made in the US, but a rare amount of them are assembled in Mexico. To this day though, I still do not understand why they did this, just figured somehow they were saving a few bucks for coffee doing it lol.
I have around 25 receptacles and I have ease of access to both Lowes and Home Depot, first thing I noticed was Home Depot (Leviton) was a little cheaper so I really wanted to see the side by side comparison. I do really like the back wire the Eaton offers. Plus with the amount of outlets I'm installing the difference is only a couple dollars. I had seen the wire stripper before, but I see people use a utility knife from their pocket over that feature. Great video, thanks for the help in making my decision.
I'm a residential electrician apprentice. I've installed hundreds of Leviton and Eaton outlets. I'd take Eaton any day. I find it very difficult to get my loops around the screws on Leviton. And thats with 14 and 12 gauge.
Love your channel. Great advice that you don't get on the TV Handyman shows!
You didn't mention this nice Eaton feature: "Patented built-in wire looper for pre-looping". I think it's great!
I love that too!
That brass grounding wafer is to ground a metal cover plate typically used in commercial/hospitals use.
And being used more in residential applications now because it's difficult to find plastic boxes.
@@njsongwriter yeah those bright blue metal boxes are all i see anymore
ALSO, I LIKE THE PLUG BLADE FUNNEL GUIDE ON THE EATON. IF YOU ARE PLUGGING IN, IN THE DARK, THE PLUG WILL FUNNEL INTO THE RECEPTACLE ON THE EATON EASIER. IT IS CLEARLY WORTH THE LOUSY EXTRA QUARTER COST ON BULK, FOR THE EATON FEATURES, IMO.
For those of us that have been doing electrical I remember when Cooper bought Eagle Electrical in 2000 then Eaton bought Cooper. I always stuck with that brand as it has always worked for me with no issues.
Wasn't Arrow-Hart part of that as well?
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes that is correct.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes that is correct. I think at that the time Cooper had bought Arrow Hart at the same time the acquisition of Eagle was done. Eagle since 1921 had the motto on their packaging : Perfection is not an accident.
Can you do a comparison of GFCI outlets?
Interested in seeing the internals.
Can you cut open Furutech pure copper receptacle & compare can ! Thanks..🤔.......,,
I thought i preferred Leviton, but after seeing your video, I am definately for Eaton!
I like the Eaton because when back wiring when you insert the end of the wire its fully incapsulated so you cant see the end of the wire. I just installed some Leviton and had to hold the wire steady while tightening the screw so it did not go in to far. not a big deal, but Eaton goes in the right depth and that's it.
After watching your video and learning the difference between the plug I would go with eaton plugs from now on. Thanks for the educational video.
Leviton is all any of our local electrical Distributors carry, plus I can go big box if necessary for pickup items...so thats what we've always used. Maybe not the best available but at least "available". And perfectly adequate in my 45 yr experience.
Thanks for the feedback Tioga!
Leviton seems to dominate the market, so many people do not see or know about the other brands out there. The same is true with breakers. In the US it seems like Square D and Cutler Hammer have like 90% of the market, with the remaining 10% GE, Seimins, and a handful of others. I have noticed that a lot of industry/commercial use Square D, whereas residential is mostly Cutler Hammer. The two also operate differently, Square D trips and the toggle goes to the center position and a orange flag shows up in a window, to reset you push to the full off position and then back to on. Cutler Hammer breakers look like a large light switch toggle, there is no trip position, it trips and snaps to the off position, thus there is no indication of a short/overload or if someone flipped it off. Also any double pole breakers (such as the main disconnect, or any 240 volt circuits) on the CH are two breakers with a locking bar between them, whereas SD locks them together internality with a single toggle operating it.
I work for Eaton. I don’t work in the plant that manufactures these though. I work in a plant where we manufacture explosion and non explosion parts for the fuel and lighting industry. One good perk about being an employee, we get special discount pricing in their products, so when I go to purchase my home, I’ll be placing an order with Eaton to replace everything in the house.
I'm fully agree with your choice 👍👌
👊
Good Comparison between Leviton and Eaton outlets. I also prefer Eaton outlet. Eaton just seems to be better than Leviton and both are very economical.
Yeah, to be honest the price is pretty reasonable for what you are getting. I have no problem spending the $2.00 per unit compared to the cheap $0.50 receptacles.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes, the price per unit are surprisingly cheap. It costs less than a cup of coffee at Peet. 👻 I would rather pay more to get good quality Outlets that would last and safe.
Beside Leviton and Eaton, Is there any better quality outlet with larger capacity and/or more safety feature for home and commercial use in the market?
Thank you for making such a good video😹👻😂👍
Thanks for your video. Eaton is, as per your revelation of Quality of design makes them The Choice for future purchases. T-bone clamping as opposed to being merely bent over, would explain why, in this old House of mine, I'm finding a need to schedule some replacements due to their too loose fitting.
I do not remember seeing the Eaton model at my Lowe’s. But will be looking for them in my next project.
Yeah, I am not 100% if Lowes in the US across all regions carry Eaton or if it varies across regions. Sounds like it is different in Canada.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs thank you. I especially like the internal review. Much heavier build. The configuration of the connector would actually work for a 30 amp double outlet if I am not mistaken.
In my Lowes, they replaced Legrand with Eaton at some point in the past year or so
@@AndrewCislak I am going this morning, will check our stock. Thanks for the info.
Finally i have the answer to the question that no one at Home Despot or Much Lowers can answer: Why the difference in $? Better design/ engineering= quality. Seeing the guts of them is all what's needed.
Nice, best of luck with the purchase/install
Where I live, (small town in Canada) Leviton is the stock brand at the hardware store. If I had a choice I'd likely go with the Eaton.
I seem to recall seeing a lot of Cooper stuff in Rona, which is pretty widespread in Metro Vancouver.
I have never liked Leviton, because they sell so much cheap stuff. I did buy one recently only because it was to be dedicated to a CO detector, so I won’t be plugging things in all the time. I hate those child-proof shutters. For my new kitchen outlets, I have Eaton/Cooper commercial grade without the shutters. These are Eagles. Eagle used to be a separate brand. They don’t use the name any more, but the part numbers start with “EAG.”
The other thing I like about the Eatons is being able to get my preferred color (light almond).
Being raised in our family home and helping family to do circuit repairs and additions, I did not even know there was other makers as I have never seen them sold. Just Leviton's 15 and 20 Amp. I think the 20 amp has better connection tabs inside so grip plugs much better so I use them. I love all the Eaton features.
Hey I have a video suggestion that you might be interested in trying. I always wanted to see someone do a Demostration of an Electrical Fire starting. Is there a way that you can biuld a small fake wall and run wires through studs and so on and "mimmock" a real electrical fire scenario by showing the dangers or space heaters and lots of amerage load on typical outlet and show how it heats the wiring up and how a fire don't just start in the electrical junction boc but can heat an entire wire up. It would be cool! I have been wanting to do one. I might one day but I just do not have the "Views" and feel like no oe would care to se my videos.
Thanks for the feedback. I think that would be a great demo if done in a controlled environment. 👍
Electrical engineer here, that has performed many electrical fire investigations. Far and away the most common fire scenario is a loose connection at the receptacle. Relatively rare is a situation that will “heat the entire wire up” and cause a fire. Another common “old wive’s tale” is an overdriven staple pinching the Romex causing a fire - it is possible but really difficult in reality.
@@jeffbannard2304 Ohh interesting! Thanks for the feed back!
@@EverydayHomeRepairs Yes for sure! I would love to see that. Thanks for the reply.
@@jeffbannard2304 thanks for the info!
The "beveled" face on the Eaton seems that it would guide a plug into the slots easier.
That is correct, I think some people like the look of a flat receptacle face but can make it much harder to plug something in.
I prefer romex sticking out of the wall. People then can just plug stuff in any way they want. ⚡⚡⚡
😂😂😂
Would be versatile and inexpensive 😬
Just have to remember, black goes in the tiny hole and white goes in the bigger one! The exposed copper wire is just leftovers, you'll be all good.
@@Camelotsmoon I'm trying to decide if this was meant as a dirty joke and if so, which are the tiny and bigger holes?
@@Camelotsmoon Don't get your shorts in a bunch. it's what you need to know when testing outlets with a multimeter - for correct wiring.
The Leviton Commercial Grade receptacle that is illustrated in this video appears to be Leviton's so called "Plus" Model which you can find at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as CBR15 and it sells for $ 2.18 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as CBR20 and it sells for $ 3.28 - Leviton's next Grade up from their Commercial Grade is known as their Industrial Grade "Plus Pro" which are the models which I very much prefer - Their Industrial line is also available at Home Depot - The 15 Amp Model is identified as 5252 and it sells for $ 6.28 - The 20 Amp Model is identified as 5352 and it sells for $ 7.28 - Relatively speaking, their Industrial line costs about 3 times as much as their Commercial line but they are worth it - The Back Wire terminals of their Industrial line looks very much like the Eaton receptacle that is shown in this video in that the Back Wire connection terminals have two molded slots per terminal which will allow you to firmly attach two wires to each said terminal if the need should arise - The Ground terminal of their Industrial line ("Plus Pro") also offers a Back Wire (clamp/screw) connection which their Commercial line does not - Their Commercial line ("Plus") only has a screw (no clamp apparatus) - The Ground terminal of the Eaton receptacle shown in this video also appears to be the same as the Leviton (screw only - no clamp apparatus) - When installing High Grade receptacles which come with Back Wire connection terminals, my preference is to use the Back Wire Connection terminals - In my opinion, a Back Wire connection is (1) easier / quicker to connect than a Side Wire connection, (2) is just as firm as a Side Wire connection, (3) seems to make it easier to push the receptacle back into the box than what a Side Wire connection does and (4) in certain installs, such as Split Feeds, you might need to attach two wires to a single terminal which a Side Wire connection does not allow you to do (prohibited by Code) - In summary, buy Leviton's Industrial Grade receptacles and use the Back Wire connection terminals to make all your connections
Howard thanks for all the great info! Appreciate the engagement.
You mentioned a split feed and attaching two wires to the black terminal. Why would you do that? I haven't heard of it (not an electrician).
A Duplex receptacle has two plugs (an upper and a lower) which are normally joined / connected together by a Common Fin on both sides (Hot terminal sides and the Neutral terminal sides) of the receptacle when you first buy them - The Common Fins can be broken off which will allow you to feed each plug separately - There are several different wiring configurations that you can use when you wire up a Duplex receptacle in Split Feed mode - Basically, the wiring configuration that you will use will depend on what you are trying to accomplish - I will give you the two most common applications of a Split Feed - Probably the most common application is in a high demand area such as a Kitchen or Workshop, where you might want each plug of the receptacle to be from a different circuit - In this case, you will need two hot wires coming into the box from two different circuits - Normally, this is done with one cable which would contain two hot wires (normally, a color coded Black wire and a color coded Red wire), a Neutral wire and a Ground wire - Normally, only the Hot Common Fin is broken off leaving the Neutral Common Fin intact - You would connect one hot wire to the hot terminal of one plug and the other hot wire to the hot terminal of the other plug - The Neutral wire can be connected to the Neutral terminal of either plug - The other most common application is were you wire up one plug to be constantly on and the other plug to be controlled from an upstream switch - The upstream switch is most commonly your every day wall switch that you would normally use to turn on a lamp that is plugged into the receptacle that is controlled by the switch - In this case, you can either use two hot wires fed from two different circuits or two hot wires from the same circuit - In this setup, the Hot Common fin would be broken off - The Neutral Common Fin is normally left intact but could be broken off if you are supplying the box with two separate cables which would have two separate neutrals - The answer to your specific question "why would you want to connect two wires to the Black terminal" is as follows - In a split feed configuration, the Hot terminal of each plug is supplied with a separate Hot wire which may or may not be from the same circuit and which may or not be controlled by an upstream switch - No matter what Split Feed configuration you decide to use, you will always have at least one Hot wire attached to the Hot terminal of each plug - With that being said, your question now becomes >> Why do you need to attach another Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals of one of the plugs - The answer is >> You don’t always need a third Hot wire - Again, as I mentioned, it depends on what you are trying to accomplish - The most common reason for attaching an extra Hot wire to one of the Hot wire terminals is >> Most electricians, in an effort to save time and money, will wire up their circuits in a Daisy Chain configuration which means that each receptacle box in the chain / circuit will be wired up with one incoming cable supplying power into the box and one outgoing cable to supply power to all other downstream receptacles in the chain / Circuit - The Hot wire of the outgoing cable would need to be connected to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs in order to feed the other receptacles downstream - In the alternative, rather than connecting the Hot wire of the outgoing cable to one of the Hot terminals of one of the plugs and the Neutral wire to one of the Neutral terminals and Ground wire to the Ground terminal, some electricians will use a so called Pigtail configuration which I do not prefer - In a Pigtail configuration, NONE of the outgoing cable wires are connected to the receptacle - See my other post at th-cam.com/video/_rRa_CedJ38/w-d-xo.html which explains my position regarding the use of Pigtails on High Grade recepatacles - Reply back if you still have questions
@@rjtumble As an example of one of the things you can do. I needed to wire a lamp (that had a failed switch). Built a small box, installed an outlet and split it. One was always hot, for a phone charger, the other was wired to a switch to turn the lamp off and on.