Nice clean job, well done. Small point: acrylic is a brittle material. Home Depot also sells Lexan (polycarbonate) which although more expensive, is much better long term. Motorcycle visors are made from it as it doesn't shatter.
Very solid advice! I'll actually be redoing it over this winter because I ended up adding more things than I thought I would, lol. This is mounted to my rear seat delete inside of the car, so I never worried too much about it cracking, although drilling it was a little extra work. I initially was going to go lexan, but they were out of stock, and I just wanted to get it done lol.
This panel is mounted to my rear seat delete, right above where the rear lower cushion used to sit. The panel itself it mounted with just a few self tapping screws which makes it easy to remove if needed. I don't currently have any waterproofing or plans to, the relays and fuse panel would be just fine under the hood, but the solid state relay and bus bars I used would probably not fair to well in an engine bay. You could always swap them out with a similar product thats more robust in the waterproof category however and have no issues putting this in an engine bay or wherever else.
Appreciate you showing…the over all concept….would this take the place of the factory fuse panel or does it stand as a separate stand alone in addition to the factory fuse panel….
You could use something like this to take place of your factory fuse panel if you wanted to! You would just need to find wiring diagrams and make sure all your fuses/relays are appropriately sized. Mine is a separate panel as I'm still using the factory body control module and harness for my power locks and windows/climate control/lights but have a standalone ECU that I'm using to control things like my transbrake, 2 step, and cooling fans.
Nice clean job, well done. Small point: acrylic is a brittle material. Home Depot also sells Lexan (polycarbonate) which although more expensive, is much better long term. Motorcycle visors are made from it as it doesn't shatter.
Very solid advice! I'll actually be redoing it over this winter because I ended up adding more things than I thought I would, lol.
This is mounted to my rear seat delete inside of the car, so I never worried too much about it cracking, although drilling it was a little extra work.
I initially was going to go lexan, but they were out of stock, and I just wanted to get it done lol.
Awesome assembly and great ideas I'll use on my car, thanks
Thank you!
Nice.
Where and how are you mounting this in your vehicle? Are you waterproofing it in any way?
This panel is mounted to my rear seat delete, right above where the rear lower cushion used to sit. The panel itself it mounted with just a few self tapping screws which makes it easy to remove if needed.
I don't currently have any waterproofing or plans to, the relays and fuse panel would be just fine under the hood, but the solid state relay and bus bars I used would probably not fair to well in an engine bay. You could always swap them out with a similar product thats more robust in the waterproof category however and have no issues putting this in an engine bay or wherever else.
Appreciate you showing…the over all concept….would this take the place of the factory fuse panel or does it stand as a separate stand alone in addition to the factory fuse panel….
You could use something like this to take place of your factory fuse panel if you wanted to! You would just need to find wiring diagrams and make sure all your fuses/relays are appropriately sized. Mine is a separate panel as I'm still using the factory body control module and harness for my power locks and windows/climate control/lights but have a standalone ECU that I'm using to control things like my transbrake, 2 step, and cooling fans.
Where did you get your 376 piece electrical connector kit
I got them on Amazon! There's a shortened link to the weatherpack connectors I used in the video description. Right around $23 currently!
nice video!
Thank you!