GordieGii I used to pull these out of cheap PC cases. They would snap the whole thing through a larger hole in the case and the motherboard would snap into the small part keeping the motherboard spaced properly.
Originally used as mobo standoff in cheaper computer builds possibly? I was thinking that the standoffs might work well with Arduino boards to keep things a bit more secured when stacked.
If I closed my eyes and just listened, I would rate its value at about $0.99 - I'm guessing you'd have to spend significantly more to get a microphone with decent sound quality. Kind of like buying a $500 car (which I did as a teenager, and which worked about as well as you'd expect).
Every op amp Julian ever bought is likely counterfeit. 17:09 “get correct ones to be purist” 😬🤦♂️ Vocoder project destroyed because it never works & loses interest in it.
PC mic's are just 2 wire, usually the tip and ring are connected together, the signal is also the power. If you ever want to use one on a project, the project would have a resistor to + and a capacitor in series with the input, check 'electret mic amplifier' circuits. Those spacers are intended for things like a dvd player, it goes through a large hole in the case bottom, then you can put the board on top.
Julian, around 6:25, the image with the chinese writing, if you have a smart phone you could use Google Translate app with live camera mode to translate the text. I have to use it for my work to translate documents sent through as I only read English. It's worth bearing in mind that its about 90% accurate, but it makes more sense than the original language.
When I build my breadboards, I use hermaphroditic standoffs. #4 and #6 are the two sizes I like. Half inch and quarter inch are good lengths to use, depending on the height of your components. You can get them in stainless steel, aluminum (aluminium) and nylon. Hermaphroditic means that one end is male, the other female. You can add them together to get any length desired. By putting these on your vector board, it looks like a four poster bed. (8 standoffs total) Then when you flip the board over to solder on the bottom side, you don't bend up all the tru hole components on the top side. When experimenting and changing parts lot, by the time you are done, it looks like the board was dropped on the ground and kicked around a bit. Putting the standoffs on both sides protects everything from getting beaten against the table top. The standoffs are more pricey than the plastic rivets, sure. But, you retain them for the engineering phase only.
The bottom clip on the standoffs are to be feed through thin sheet metal like a computer case or just a sheet to mount your devises on. Hence the larger hole size.
The ± marked inputs on the "Op amp power supply" is for AC voltage. So that's why there is a common mode choke on the board. Nice option for both AC and DC.
The "nylon feet" are motherboard standoffs that go through the bottom of the case from the outside. where the case has holes that aren't threaded, usually only very old computer cases.
with the breadboard power supply, yes the ground lines will be tied together, the power lines will be tied together only if they are both on 5v or both on 3.3v.
put a 5mm hole in a project box at each PCB hole and the plastic standoffs would pass through the project box hole and then have a non conductive standoff to mount your pcb
that nylon support is designed to be put thru a second hole julian so you could put it thru a second larger board to support the neo pixel strip easily
Nice selection, Jules :D It looks like that breadboard PSU has separate supplies for the top and bottom rails, and voltage switchable, too :) PS: the "One LED Mmmmuuugh" absolutely had me rolling! You're a very awesome and very funny guy :D
the way those plastic standoffs work is you have a 5 millimeter hole or whatever on your bottom plate you push the thing all the way through to the second set of barbs and then you put the board you don't want to touch the case with the three-and-a-half millimeter holes on the top barb. there used to keep motherboards off metal trays in computer cases if you don't want to mount with metal standoffs and the screws or for some reason you didn't want the case ground to tie to the board ground like it would with a metal standoff.
What's more of a wonder is that it got through Customs at that size. I once ordered bits like these, Nano compatibles, Dupont wires, breadboards, transistors and other components worth 70 quid, all squished in a tiny box not much larger than a pack of Tetley's, and the fuckers made me come in during work hours, bring a print-out of the order confirmation, open it, sign a ton of paper, watch it be sent off by post to some idiotic investigation bureau, eventually pay the VAT equivalent as import tax, get it lost in transit because now the Chinese tracking number was no longer valid, have a lot of hassle with the Lost Mail "service", get told I'd have to ask the SENDER to call for the Loss of Mail investigation because it was international mail, when it finally was dropped at my door with no comment after more than a month of delay. I will NEVER EVER order anything requiring a wrapping more substantial than one of those stretchy PE bags and a layer or two of bubble wrap. Customs and Mail. Incompetent sack of tossers, the lot.
I've had some packages with the double label recently. I can only assume that packages are being sent from China to a local distributor and then sent on internally. Perhaps it's helps on items being claimed as lost, or import issues or something. Really not sure but it does seem to be on the increase. Royal Mail are increasing there checks for prohibited items and are getting more keen on a return address they can contact in case of issue - perhaps that has something to do with it.
11:11 you can use these to actually MOUNT PCBs. You push them through the bottom of a project enclosure or metal case and then you can mount PCBs in a simple and isolated manner. This is how I learnt to know them :)
I was just about to say the same thing, they are perfectly suited to maintaining high voltage separation, most of the ebay relay modules are better off mounted with these clips as bolts are dangerously close to the high voltage side of the relays.
great video, subscribed !!! something about the nylon spacer thingy: I suggest you first put the spacer through an enclosure chassis (5mm hole), then you add the board. This way round you can actually mount any board, even the LED stripe.
When you purchase something on ebay, you could use the note feature on the purchase history to add a link to the appropriate comment. Probably easier than keeping a separate notebook.
A little advice, check the datasheet on those breadboard supply linear regulators and mark those boards with their power ratings. It must be extremely low, because I've had one go bang on me, and another quickly lose regulation. I don't find them very useful.
Got one of them along with the same breadboard. Think the whole kit was the exact same, just from a different supplier. It was supposed to give 3.3V and 5V with a jumper change. Now my one only gives 3.3 and 8.9V. This is a known problem with the YuRobot Power MB V2. Think it only happens when you use a 12V input (or higher......which I didn't exceed). Guess it'll be handy if I need 3.3 or 9V for some small project :D
Wish I'd known that before I plugged it in lol. Mind you, it did work fine for a few days before the upper output went arsewise. Seems to be still putting the 3.3 out fine, but think after this I'll stick to batteries :D
I had the same one as Julian and blew up the 5v one the first time I used it but I think the output did get shorted I just cut the regulator out of the board the board makes a nice 2.1 mill to breadboard connector
Remember to put jumper in the rails as half way through the board the red and blue lines are split so power only goes half way along the power rails,remember jumpers! :-)
What the Chinese ebay sellers are doing now is sending over one large shipment of orders to the UK where they are then sent out to the person. This cuts down their overheads as they get royal mail bulk postage rates.
generally those psu's only do 5v or 3v3 dependent on where you put the jumpers. you could have 5v on one side and 3.3v on the other rail. 1 issue i found is that they dont fit old breadbords!
Those nylon supports should first go through a larger hole in a base plate, then when you insert your little boards, then they act as standoffs. They used to be used inside lots of computer base units to support the main motherboards and so on.
Has anyone suggestions which Chinese sellers are reliable to get good quality breadboards from? Couple of breadboards I got some years ago are OK, but recently ordered ones were quite shitty. Or is it always a lottery?
with those stand off's and your neopixel board, push the stand off fully through a bottom board with a slightly larger hole and the fit the neopixel board on the upper part of the stand off
My ears pricked up when I heard INA219👍👍👍👍👍 May I request you also add in the INA 169. I know your a solar man. I'm working on a solar batt setup using the Ming He controller. Could you possibly include this and how we can use it for measuring a 24v system. Please kind sir Once again thank you Julian
I'd like to know more about that little unit that you plugged into the breadboard. And, that power supply seems to be missing some connectors that were shown in the ebay listing, yet you didn't comment on that. What's up with that?
Watch out for those breadboard PSU's had 2 of them and the 5v red failed on both of them dumping 12v straight to the 5v in on some arduino's. Needless to say they didn't work after that, however the 3.3v output carry on as normal.
Those tweezers are anything but heat resistant. Was trying to fiddle off some surface mount component with one of them and the plastic was soft a lot faster than the TSOP component. Also, rather fragile.
I really like the "High-power Simulation OP AMP Power Supply Module 3V ±5V ±12V ±15V 200mA Output " but apparently its no longer available unless someone has the search secret ?
I'm prototyping an audio amp, and am a bit confused. Would I hook up +12volt and ground for power, or -12 volt and +12? (Ground meaning true earth ground)
Hey Julian just a little advice, before you put those opamps in your projects test them with an oscilloscope, 99% sure they are not "genuine" parts and won't perform as the datasheed says. Got burned with fake opamps from china quite a few times now, almost all of them were orders of magnitude out of spec. Zeptobars has decapped some fakes and the results were quite interesting.
Julian - I was wondering if you have taken a look at the DPS5015 yet?? I just ordered one, and thank God I made the mistake I did with my last buck converter (frying it :( -), because it was less expensive, and as a result, will be much more careful with this new and improved converter. My goodness Julian, you REALLY should check this one out, it is incredible - No More pushing buttons (it has a rotary stepper) - much much better for sure, and so much more information on-screen (Volts, Amps, Power, Input Voltage, Set Voltage, Set Amps - All on one screen, and in color). I would LOVE to see you do a video review on it for sure. I love watching your videos Julian, and still can't believe you haven't picked up one of the DPS5015 (50v 15a) converters yet.. Please have a go at it, I am excited about getting mine. Steven
The way you show those VU meters arranged in a row you will only see the LED's from the side. I'm afraid you won't see much light from them, as they emit most of the light through the lens on top.
TH-cam. I upload all the individual shots then assemble them using TH-cam Editor. This time I uploaded more than 50 small videos and that triggered some sort of spam detector.
Use the standoffs for when you are using a metal case so you have garanteed seperation, and the board is modular without the use of screws. does not necesarilly need to be a PCB
quick question... on your solar battery setup, are the batteries all directly in parallel or do you have swamping resistors in place to ensure the batteries do not charge each other as then you would have big problems with the charging and discharging of the batteries. Just a suggestion :) Guiding diodes might be a good option too but expensive and the voltage drop is a pain.
So no problems with the batteries? Just asked my grandfather about putting some 12V Lead Acid batteries in parallel and he said i should use swamping resistors.. Maybe the different battery chemistry plays a role in the ESR of the batteries
But the solder wick was branded "goot wick" (I guess that's what you meant)? Edit: My bad, on the ebay-listing he showed it's goot wick, but the one he received is unbranded.
Oddly enough I just got 2 rolls of this in this week and used it today. Not impressed. Worked well on solder on top of the board but pretty much ignored the solder in/near the holes. Plated holes were a PITA and I just gave up.
The real "goot wick" CP-2015 (which is Made in Japan) is actually about the same price retail in Japan... The real stuff actually has flux and says it works well for removing lead-free solder too.
Hi Julian, I think I remember you having an Android device (a tablet if not both tablet and phone). Have you considered using Google Translate for the Chinese translations? It's great on android devices with a camera, you can point the camera at the Chinese symbols and it does a good job of translating that live onscreen. I use it all the time for my postbag goodies.
The plastic/nylon stand-off legs/feet look like they have 2 levels; as if you can possibly push them through to another level & maybe allow you to hold two boards together.
Not sure if anyone else stated this but the bread board power supplies do not link the ground/power strips. They have dual outputs which are 5 and 3.5v (one being selectable if I recall). I had to replace a regulator on one (cos a quarter and a finger ;) ) Microphone = -$0.99 ;)
Hi Julian i have quite a few breadboards but i do projects with all different voltages bit all i can find is the 3.3volt and 5 volt supply, it would be nice to have an adjustable supply say up to 20volts @ 1amp for amp projects etc.
Hi, the bobbin is used to have a good electrical impedance in any senses - is a power supply module ( the basic way ... ). 1.can you tell me why is not just one package - you use multiple buy processes of ebay? 2. I want to see one video tutorial about that ammeter device. 3. what yo need a 1 mhz timing clock ? 4. I want to see more about your projects. 5. what good is the microphone ( capacitive ?) Thank you. Best regards.
Julian, for those VU meters couldn't you just flip that pin header round the other way and lay them flat on the project? I mean they don't have to stand up do they? That way they could lay down flat and it wouldn't matter so much which orientation the LEDs were laid out in because you can account for that where they plug in. I'd just desolder the headers and flip them round the back side of the board. Easy peasy...
For comment suggestions you might want to try the Chrome extension TubeBuddy. I saw that Grant Thompson used it in his videos for saving comments and tried it myself, quite useful if a little too many features.
Ordered some stuff from Alice myself here last April 1st. Here it is, May 27th, and I have yet to see hide nor hair of the package. Several inquiries have been sent to Alice, with rather simplistic replies that say what the tracking does, that it was shipped. At last, they are checking now I guess, or rather they say they are. Strange, I have never had any problems with Alice and many other items I have ordered from other shippers in China have arrived, and I have already tired of playing with the toys that they contained. Strange that.
Back in the late 80's I was an electronics student and was quite fluent in the terminology. Today, I try to keep up. Meanwhile, being a software developer for 30 years, knowledge has faded. :) What is the difference between an inductor and a choke? I remember it has something to do about "blocking" (the choke blocks high frequencies) and the Q-factor. That means the choke is wound around some magnetic material, right? Does that mean that every inductor with a ferrite core is a choke, or is it simply the inductors usage that determines its name? If "yes", does that mean that two identical inductors can have different names (inductor and choke) based on how it is used? It's a bit confusing to me, but may make perfect sense to professionals (and I cannot remember any confusion about the subject 30 years ago) ;-) Anyway, many thanks for another great Postbag!
Choke is an application of an inductor. In this particular application, a common-mode choke, "send & return" of a current goes through one winding each on the same core, and if there is an imbalance between the currents, it will be dampened by induction.
Interesting mix. For the op amps I went to Distrelec and got a few hundred full spec modern devices for a very good price by chasing special offers. The 741 is really past it and as for the others are they what they say they are? The dual rail PSU is all well and good but most modern designers go for single rail these days. There is a danger of experimenting in the 1980s with some of these chips. Good modern devices from a local quality supplier is not that much more expensive but you will learn more than struggling with low spec possible rejects from China.
For the thingies with the LEDs, couldn't you just have right-angle sockets and plug them in on a board mounted upside-down? Same effect really if you can pull it off. Shame that, how they were assembled but the alternative _I guess_ would be to roll your own board and transfer all the components on there.
3:29 that thing looks like it's been burned. Also have it's lower pins been soldered correctly? (edit: later angles suggest it might just have flux smeared on it.)
Wish you had also edited out the apostrophe in "have it's lower" ... But I guess I have to count myself lucky with you having found the Edit button instead of replying to yourself like every other moron on TH-cam ...
Is that incorrect English? The meaning was: The pins possessed by the entity known as "IT", eg: Anvilshock's lower pins. i understand there are alternate meanings such as "IT IS" or "IT HAS", but the true meaning is gained via surrounding context, yes? edit: ok i did a read and learned that Possessive Nouns use apostrophes differently to Possessive PROnouns/Adjectives. Fascinating.
I think the idea is to push the standoff through a case from the outside, then snap a circuit inside.
Yes, or through another board to piggy back them.
GordieGii I used to pull these out of cheap PC cases. They would snap the whole thing through a larger hole in the case and the motherboard would snap into the small part keeping the motherboard spaced properly.
Originally used as mobo standoff in cheaper computer builds possibly?
I was thinking that the standoffs might work well with Arduino boards to keep things a bit more secured when stacked.
yep thats it, 5mm hole in case and 3.5mm hole in pcb or used to support board to board interconnects
Those are designed with sheet metal casing in mind. We use these at work to mount controller circuit boards in industrial cooling equipment.
please, don't use that mic. hahahah
It's a $0.99 fail!
agreed... its sounds grainy and way softer....
i bet if you increased the gain, it will sound worse and probably have to use noise removal
It's a touch clearer, but it's softer and hissy. There is noise canceling in Win, but it didn't help my cheap mic.
If I closed my eyes and just listened, I would rate its value at about $0.99 - I'm guessing you'd have to spend significantly more to get a microphone with decent sound quality. Kind of like buying a $500 car (which I did as a teenager, and which worked about as well as you'd expect).
that mic is SHIT
That red switch on the OP AMP PSU says:
±5v high current switch (and then low voltage: 5V output can make the output current up to 200mA)
Do you ever build anything with half of China's silicon reserves now in your basement?
LMAO
Every op amp Julian ever bought is likely counterfeit. 17:09 “get correct ones to be purist” 😬🤦♂️ Vocoder project destroyed because it never works & loses interest in it.
PC mic's are just 2 wire, usually the tip and ring are connected together, the signal is also the power.
If you ever want to use one on a project, the project would have a resistor to + and a capacitor in series with the input, check 'electret mic amplifier' circuits.
Those spacers are intended for things like a dvd player, it goes through a large hole in the case bottom, then you can put the board on top.
Sparky Projects PC Mikes can be stereo, hence the TRS connector. Although a simple mike will be mono and have the ring and tip tied together.
Julian, around 6:25, the image with the chinese writing, if you have a smart phone you could use Google Translate app with live camera mode to translate the text. I have to use it for my work to translate documents sent through as I only read English. It's worth bearing in mind that its about 90% accurate, but it makes more sense than the original language.
The solder wick is interesting, first use it to remove solder from something and then use it as "high" power cable XD
When I build my breadboards, I use hermaphroditic standoffs. #4 and #6 are the two sizes I like. Half inch and quarter inch are good lengths to use, depending on the height of your components. You can get them in stainless steel, aluminum (aluminium) and nylon. Hermaphroditic means that one end is male, the other female. You can add them together to get any length desired. By putting these on your vector board, it looks like a four poster bed. (8 standoffs total) Then when you flip the board over to solder on the bottom side, you don't bend up all the tru hole components on the top side. When experimenting and changing parts lot, by the time you are done, it looks like the board was dropped on the ground and kicked around a bit. Putting the standoffs on both sides protects everything from getting beaten against the table top. The standoffs are more pricey than the plastic rivets, sure. But, you retain them for the engineering phase only.
So you're saying those chips were as cheap as...?
+Paul Sengupta 😁
Beat me to it!
@@JulianIlett Do you realise every opamp you ever got from eBay is likely counterfeit?
PCB supports are of course designed to go first through a larger hole in the outside of a case, then through a PCB inside the case.
The bottom clip on the standoffs are to be feed through thin sheet metal like a computer case or just a sheet to mount your devises on. Hence the larger hole size.
you can also get the pcb supports with sticky pad feet.
great postbag Julian 👍
The ± marked inputs on the "Op amp power supply" is for AC voltage. So that's why there is a common mode choke on the board. Nice option for both AC and DC.
The plastic standoff's usually mount into a metal case (PC for example) locking in the big mount and the PCB would use the 3 mm part
The "nylon feet" are motherboard standoffs that go through the bottom of the case from the outside. where the case has holes that aren't threaded, usually only very old computer cases.
with the breadboard power supply, yes the ground lines will be tied together, the power lines will be tied together only if they are both on 5v or both on 3.3v.
put a 5mm hole in a project box at each PCB hole and the plastic standoffs would pass through the project box hole and then have a non conductive standoff to mount your pcb
that nylon support is designed to be put thru a second hole julian so you could put it thru a second larger board to support the neo pixel strip easily
I have run into the different colors for the breadboards. Really fun (as in horrible) when you stack the power rails on one side.
BTW, the 102 power supply has dual rails... there's a jumper on each side to select 3.3v/5v
The white standoffs used to hold motherboards in PC cases back in the day.
The ones I used where slightly different with a flat base and rounded head that threaded through the pc case.
It was a pain in the you-know-what to get all of those bloody things lined up..
And the IRQ settings. I hated doing that.
Chris G i still put these where i cant fit a stand off it helps in supporting the motherboard
Nice selection, Jules :D
It looks like that breadboard PSU has separate supplies for the top and bottom rails, and voltage switchable, too :)
PS: the "One LED Mmmmuuugh" absolutely had me rolling! You're a very awesome and very funny guy :D
the way those plastic standoffs work is you have a 5 millimeter hole or whatever on your bottom plate you push the thing all the way through to the second set of barbs and then you put the board you don't want to touch the case with the three-and-a-half millimeter holes on the top barb. there used to keep motherboards off metal trays in computer cases if you don't want to mount with metal standoffs and the screws or for some reason you didn't want the case ground to tie to the board ground like it would with a metal standoff.
Thanks for the E Bay URLs. That makes get some on those things, without searching.
The first item does not link the rails together. It will provide a 5v and 3v rail, and you can set it with jumpers. extremely handy little board
its a wonder that big bag got to you at all with all the details blacked out well done British GPO
What's more of a wonder is that it got through Customs at that size. I once ordered bits like these, Nano compatibles, Dupont wires, breadboards, transistors and other components worth 70 quid, all squished in a tiny box not much larger than a pack of Tetley's, and the fuckers made me come in during work hours, bring a print-out of the order confirmation, open it, sign a ton of paper, watch it be sent off by post to some idiotic investigation bureau, eventually pay the VAT equivalent as import tax, get it lost in transit because now the Chinese tracking number was no longer valid, have a lot of hassle with the Lost Mail "service", get told I'd have to ask the SENDER to call for the Loss of Mail investigation because it was international mail, when it finally was dropped at my door with no comment after more than a month of delay. I will NEVER EVER order anything requiring a wrapping more substantial than one of those stretchy PE bags and a layer or two of bubble wrap. Customs and Mail. Incompetent sack of tossers, the lot.
Like others have pointed out, those clips are made to go through a 5 mm hole or so first and then through a 3 mm hole on the board.
I've had some packages with the double label recently. I can only assume that packages are being sent from China to a local distributor and then sent on internally. Perhaps it's helps on items being claimed as lost, or import issues or something. Really not sure but it does seem to be on the increase. Royal Mail are increasing there checks for prohibited items and are getting more keen on a return address they can contact in case of issue - perhaps that has something to do with it.
I think they meant "rivet" instead of "river." Multiple sellers simply copied the English item description from each other.
11:11 you can use these to actually MOUNT PCBs. You push them through the bottom of a project enclosure or metal case and then you can mount PCBs in a simple and isolated manner. This is how I learnt to know them :)
the bottom hole of the stand off ( lower barb) is to go thru something else .. like a case , then put your board held off (stand off)
I was just about to say the same thing, they are perfectly suited to maintaining high voltage separation, most of the ebay relay modules are better off mounted with these clips as bolts are dangerously close to the high voltage side of the relays.
great video, subscribed !!!
something about the nylon spacer thingy: I suggest you first put the spacer through an enclosure chassis (5mm hole), then you add the board. This way round you can actually mount any board, even the LED stripe.
Can you poke a soldering iron at those tweezers? Just to see how heat resistant they are.
They’re not any more heat resistant or ESD safe than regular nylon (or whatever they’re made of).
Jules you're a good craic, enjoy your vids. Addicted to ebay you are!
Got some of that soldering wick, I love it! Great stuff, I do use it with flux which makes it work much better.
When you purchase something on ebay, you could use the note feature on the purchase history to add a link to the appropriate comment. Probably easier than keeping a separate notebook.
The supports, go through a larger hole on the mounting board, then clip the PCB with a smaller hole ontop.
The jumpers by the pins on the breadboard psu set the voltage for either side :)
A little advice, check the datasheet on those breadboard supply linear regulators and mark those boards with their power ratings. It must be extremely low, because I've had one go bang on me, and another quickly lose regulation. I don't find them very useful.
Got one of them along with the same breadboard. Think the whole kit was the exact same, just from a different supplier. It was supposed to give 3.3V and 5V with a jumper change. Now my one only gives 3.3 and 8.9V. This is a known problem with the YuRobot Power MB V2. Think it only happens when you use a 12V input (or higher......which I didn't exceed). Guess it'll be handy if I need 3.3 or 9V for some small project :D
tiger12506 yes, I've had the same thing on the first use, the 5v reg fails and gives an unregulated output. threw it away and built my own.
madbstard1 some of the clone 1117 regulators are only rated 10v input and fail instantly
Wish I'd known that before I plugged it in lol. Mind you, it did work fine for a few days before the upper output went arsewise. Seems to be still putting the 3.3 out fine, but think after this I'll stick to batteries :D
I had the same one as Julian and blew up the 5v one the first time I used it but I think the output did get shorted I just cut the regulator out of the board the board makes a nice 2.1 mill to breadboard connector
Those standoffs I've used before. Put them through holes in the bottom of an enclosure and mount your board on them.
Remember to put jumper in the rails as half way through the board the red and blue lines are split so power only goes half way along the power rails,remember jumpers! :-)
What the Chinese ebay sellers are doing now is sending over one large shipment of orders to the UK where they are then sent out to the person. This cuts down their overheads as they get royal mail bulk postage rates.
generally those psu's only do 5v or 3v3 dependent on where you put the jumpers.
you could have 5v on one side and 3.3v on the other rail.
1 issue i found is that they dont fit old breadbords!
Those nylon supports should first go through a larger hole in a base plate, then when you insert your little boards, then they act as standoffs. They used to be used inside lots of computer base units to support the main motherboards and so on.
Only trouble with that model breadboard is the side rails are split half way down. You can tell by the break in the red and blue stripes.
Ah, that's useful to know - thanks Robert :)
Has anyone suggestions which Chinese sellers are reliable to get good quality breadboards from?
Couple of breadboards I got some years ago are OK, but recently ordered ones were quite shitty. Or is it always a lottery?
with those stand off's and your neopixel board, push the stand off fully through a bottom board with a slightly larger hole and the fit the neopixel board on the upper part of the stand off
If you use the breadbox PSU be aware of + / - it only goes correctly on one end to line up with red / blue!
My ears pricked up when I heard INA219👍👍👍👍👍
May I request you also add in the INA 169. I know your a solar man. I'm working on a solar batt setup using the Ming He controller. Could you possibly include this and how we can use it for measuring a 24v system. Please kind sir
Once again thank you Julian
I'd like to know more about that little unit that you plugged into the breadboard. And, that power supply seems to be missing some connectors that were shown in the ebay listing, yet you didn't comment on that. What's up with that?
Watch out for those breadboard PSU's had 2 of them and the 5v red failed on both of them dumping 12v straight to the 5v in on some arduino's. Needless to say they didn't work after that, however the 3.3v output carry on as normal.
Those tweezers are anything but heat resistant. Was trying to fiddle off some surface mount component with one of them and the plastic was soft a lot faster than the TSOP component. Also, rather fragile.
I really like the "High-power Simulation OP AMP Power Supply Module 3V ±5V ±12V ±15V 200mA Output " but apparently its no longer available unless someone has the search secret ?
I'm prototyping an audio amp, and am a bit confused. Would I hook up +12volt and ground for power, or -12 volt and +12? (Ground meaning true earth ground)
Hey Julian just a little advice, before you put those opamps in your projects test them with an oscilloscope, 99% sure they are not "genuine" parts and won't perform as the datasheed says. Got burned with fake opamps from china quite a few times now, almost all of them were orders of magnitude out of spec. Zeptobars has decapped some fakes and the results were quite interesting.
Julian - I was wondering if you have taken a look at the DPS5015 yet?? I just ordered one, and thank God I made the mistake I did with my last buck converter (frying it :( -), because it was less expensive, and as a result, will be much more careful with this new and improved converter. My goodness Julian, you REALLY should check this one out, it is incredible - No More pushing buttons (it has a rotary stepper) - much much better for sure, and so much more information on-screen (Volts, Amps, Power, Input Voltage, Set Voltage, Set Amps - All on one screen, and in color). I would LOVE to see you do a video review on it for sure.
I love watching your videos Julian, and still can't believe you haven't picked up one of the DPS5015 (50v 15a) converters yet.. Please have a go at it, I am excited about getting mine.
Steven
The way you show those VU meters arranged in a row you will only see the LED's from the side. I'm afraid you won't see much light from them, as they emit most of the light through the lens on top.
Good point. I'm leaning more towards having the boards lying down now :)
Late night Julian, nice.....
TH-cam throttled my uploads - which held me up :|
Julian Ilett TH-cam or your ISP?
TH-cam. I upload all the individual shots then assemble them using TH-cam Editor. This time I uploaded more than 50 small videos and that triggered some sort of spam detector.
sir when will u make a video on that globe styled pov kit which was in postbag #81
Use the standoffs for when you are using a metal case so you have garanteed seperation, and the board is modular without the use of screws. does not necesarilly need to be a PCB
quick question... on your solar battery setup, are the batteries all directly in parallel or do you have swamping resistors in place to ensure the batteries do not charge each other as then you would have big problems with the charging and discharging of the batteries. Just a suggestion :) Guiding diodes might be a good option too but expensive and the voltage drop is a pain.
+Julian Curmi I have 6 gel batteries in parallel. No resistors or diodes.
So no problems with the batteries? Just asked my grandfather about putting some 12V Lead Acid batteries in parallel and he said i should use swamping resistors.. Maybe the different battery chemistry plays a role in the ESR of the batteries
I believe the feet you bought are dual use. first they are feet then you can also use them as standoffs between two boards.
I think you put it backwards. First, they were stand-offs. ;-)
That's the horrible solder wick with no flux. Put some on with a flux pin (or get some good stuff like gut wick(well, it's alright))
But the solder wick was branded "goot wick" (I guess that's what you meant)?
Edit: My bad, on the ebay-listing he showed it's goot wick, but the one he received is unbranded.
Oddly enough I just got 2 rolls of this in this week and used it today. Not impressed. Worked well on solder on top of the board but pretty much ignored the solder in/near the holes. Plated holes were a PITA and I just gave up.
The real "goot wick" CP-2015 (which is Made in Japan) is actually about the same price retail in Japan... The real stuff actually has flux and says it works well for removing lead-free solder too.
Boring Old White Guy: Genuine Goot wick is a godsend, the knockoff stuff is rubbish.
I have been using the ebay stuff for years no problem at all.
Love the video Julian, we gonna get a solo vid on the QD-188?
Hi Julian, I think I remember you having an Android device (a tablet if not both tablet and phone). Have you considered using Google Translate for the Chinese translations? It's great on android devices with a camera, you can point the camera at the Chinese symbols and it does a good job of translating that live onscreen. I use it all the time for my postbag goodies.
The plastic/nylon stand-off legs/feet look like they have 2 levels; as if you can possibly push them through to another level & maybe allow you to hold two boards together.
Surely the larger part of the stand-off is for mounting through a case?
I'm surprised no one has suggested the adhesive PCB supports, same principle but with adhesive back.
i didn't have much luck with solderwick, but i heard that the expensive stuff is really good, and the cheap stuff is unusable...
Not sure if anyone else stated this but the bread board power supplies do not link the ground/power strips. They have dual outputs which are 5 and 3.5v (one being selectable if I recall). I had to replace a regulator on one (cos a quarter and a finger ;) ) Microphone = -$0.99 ;)
The 741... my first ever IC back in 1978 (I think)
Hi Julian i have quite a few breadboards but i do projects with all different voltages bit all i can find is the 3.3volt and 5 volt supply, it would be nice to have an
adjustable supply say up to 20volts @ 1amp for amp projects etc.
Can you have the power level indicators plug into the bottom of the filter boards?
Not really - the filter boards are near the top of the front panel. But I've decided it'll be OK to have the level indicators lying down.
Perfect timing! Thanks!
I tried the Google Translate thing too - I came up with "Dogs say giant flow said giant 'charge pump". Not much help!
Hi, the bobbin is used to have a good electrical impedance in any senses - is a power supply module ( the basic way ... ).
1.can you tell me why is not just one package - you use multiple buy processes of ebay?
2. I want to see one video tutorial about that ammeter device.
3. what yo need a 1 mhz timing clock ?
4. I want to see more about your projects.
5. what good is the microphone ( capacitive ?)
Thank you. Best regards.
Julian, for those VU meters couldn't you just flip that pin header round the other way and lay them flat on the project? I mean they don't have to stand up do they? That way they could lay down flat and it wouldn't matter so much which orientation the LEDs were laid out in because you can account for that where they plug in. I'd just desolder the headers and flip them round the back side of the board. Easy peasy...
That's not a bad idea - view them by looking down on the vocoder from the top - I like it :)
What are you going to use for carrier for the vocoder? Just wondering.
I've found cheap breadboards to be very difficult to work with - almost impossible to insert into some of the holes.
For comment suggestions you might want to try the Chrome extension TubeBuddy. I saw that Grant Thompson used it in his videos for saving comments and tried it myself, quite useful if a little too many features.
chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/tubebuddy-for-youtube/mhkhmbddkmdggbhaaaodilponhnccicb?hl=en-GB
If only TubeBuddy showed you where the Edit button is ...
Anvilshock ?
They can be pushed through a baseboard first then onto the pcb
The breadboards and the power thingy...
*I have that exact set of parts*
at 15:10... I have a pair of the one style of those tweezers and they are definitely not heat resistant enough to hold a part while soldering.
perhaps I should say similar....
Perhaps you should use the Edit button ...
I need a 5v regulator with android socket few weeks ago i found loads now i cant find any, any ideas plz?
Ordered some stuff from Alice myself here last April 1st. Here it is, May 27th, and I have yet to see hide nor hair of the package. Several inquiries have been sent to Alice, with rather simplistic replies that say what the tracking does, that it was shipped. At last, they are checking now I guess, or rather they say they are. Strange, I have never had any problems with Alice and many other items I have ordered from other shippers in China have arrived, and I have already tired of playing with the toys that they contained. Strange that.
Back in the late 80's I was an electronics student and was quite fluent in the terminology. Today, I try to keep up. Meanwhile, being a software developer for 30 years, knowledge has faded. :)
What is the difference between an inductor and a choke? I remember it has something to do about "blocking" (the choke blocks high frequencies) and the Q-factor. That means the choke is wound around some magnetic material, right? Does that mean that every inductor with a ferrite core is a choke, or is it simply the inductors usage that determines its name? If "yes", does that mean that two identical inductors can have different names (inductor and choke) based on how it is used? It's a bit confusing to me, but may make perfect sense to professionals (and I cannot remember any confusion about the subject 30 years ago) ;-)
Anyway, many thanks for another great Postbag!
Choke is an application of an inductor. In this particular application, a common-mode choke, "send & return" of a current goes through one winding each on the same core, and if there is an imbalance between the currents, it will be dampened by induction.
Thanks! A cat is an animal. A truck is a vehicle. A rocket is an engine. A choke is an inductor. ;-)
Interesting mix. For the op amps I went to Distrelec and got a few hundred full spec modern devices for a very good price by chasing special offers. The 741 is really past it and as for the others are they what they say they are? The dual rail PSU is all well and good but most modern designers go for single rail these days. There is a danger of experimenting in the 1980s with some of these chips. Good modern devices from a local quality supplier is not that much more expensive but you will learn more than struggling with low spec possible rejects from China.
can't find a decent clip probe for multimeter, any suggestions?
thank you for showing me the end snap off. thanks
For the thingies with the LEDs, couldn't you just have right-angle sockets and plug them in on a board mounted upside-down? Same effect really if you can pull it off.
Shame that, how they were assembled but the alternative _I guess_ would be to roll your own board and transfer all the components on there.
take the mice apart and see if you can do any filtering on that hiss? would be an interesting video
Good stuff. But I wished you would've measured the power supply and tried a VU meter already, instead of leaving those for later...
3:29 that thing looks like it's been burned. Also have it's lower pins been soldered correctly?
(edit: later angles suggest it might just have flux smeared on it.)
Wish you had also edited out the apostrophe in "have it's lower" ... But I guess I have to count myself lucky with you having found the Edit button instead of replying to yourself like every other moron on TH-cam ...
Is that incorrect English? The meaning was: The pins possessed by the entity known as "IT", eg: Anvilshock's lower pins.
i understand there are alternate meanings such as "IT IS" or "IT HAS", but the true meaning is gained via surrounding context, yes?
edit: ok i did a read and learned that Possessive Nouns use apostrophes differently to Possessive PROnouns/Adjectives. Fascinating.
Yep. Nobody ever said English was logical.
Hi Julian, have you experimented with lasers before?
Just turn the filter board upside down, or put the sockets on the bottom of it so the led meters hang down!
The solder wick they sent you is a different brand and not made in Japan.
I bought around 80 555's on ebay kleinanzeigen for 10€, they are mostly 7555, also smd ones, standart 555, all sorts of them
You can desolder, the LED's an then put the green at the bottom.
Sorry for the noob question, but what is negative voltage?
Could you show us how you organize all your eBay stuff? How much place does all of it takes nowadays? :)
A lot! The main problem is finding things. I've got some multi-compartment storage boxes coming from China soon :)
hi, i got the same tweezers from alice, they are not very heat resistent... i broke 2 becouse i used them while soldering and they melted