Someone talked me into trying to pull down the trees whole, so after I get done with the next 7 stumps, I’m going to try pulling them down and popping the roots out. I have like 30 more stumps I keep finding throughout the property…. I have tons to keep me going. I think I’m going to have to drill holes around stumps to pull the big ones out.
@@brainhomestead6 I mean that might work, as long as you have a plan on how to get you and your tractor out of the way when the tree starts falling. I dont think the tractor is gonna pull them over just by itselfe, so you would need some mechanical advantage anyway.. But yeah, why not try it, would like to see if that works too👍 And for the bigger ones: cant you just set a system up where you use them against each other , or are they too far apart?
@@brainhomestead6 I heared for the bamoo you have to let it grow and wait till it produce some leaves. As soon as it produces some you have to cut it down, and repeat that a few times to kill it. Theory behind that is that growing takes energy and it only gets that back when the leaves can do photosyntesis. Idk if thats working though...
Research tractor ballast information. It would help you make your tractor more powerful. There is beet juice for tires, weight racks for front and rear, ballast boxes for using sand or gravel etc.. That information will help you be much more efficient and safe. Good luck young man From a old Texas tractor man with decades of experience!! REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST!!!
I appreciate it very much and I sure will look it up. I have just been using my tiller on the back because it’s the heaviest implement I’ve got, but I would prefer a proper setup.
I love this video!! I have a giant pine on my property, dead as a hammer, and I spend way too much time scheming how to get rid of it without spending $2,500!! 😊
To make sure the straps don't slip off the tree stump, I drill a one inch hole through the stump under the notch similar to yours and slide in a 7/8 inch round steel bar. across the sump. Using the same type of straps you have, I slip one end of the strap on either side of the tree before wrapping in choker the strap around the stump in the cut,,, Guaranteed results. Plus the stump will tilt on the side and be pulled horizontally.
I can’t find anything over 3/8” chain and I’ve had it break on me. In videos #8 and after I’ve started using the straps in a choke configuration to bite in. They’re easier than chain and higher breaking weight than chain. They are also cheaper.
Love your videos, but I’m also curious why you don’t use chain. A grade 70 3/8” chain had a higher WWL than those straps. You should be using the WLL to determine what straps or chains you’re going to use, not the breaking strength. I pull a lot of stumps with chains. I have a grab hook on one end of the chain and a slip hook on the other end of the chain (both grade 70).
@@jaronson199 I can’t even find grade 70 3/8” chain here for under $100. I’ve never broken straps, but I think it was video #2 of mine where I broke a chain. It’s just cheaper to use straps and much easier to setup and transport them since they’re so light. I just got turned off of them after I broke one.
To keep the pulling force on the stump upward not horizontal use a rolling fulcrum near the stump. An ellipsoidal shape is most effective although a cylindrical shape also works well.
also buy some forks for the front and simply push the forks under the stump and lift just enough to move it, keeo the front end loader low as possible at all times. never pull from the front grill guard always pull from the lower rear tractor draw bar. not a draw bar located on the three point, the one located at the rear tractor axle housing. just trying to help. love your videos i learned a lot.
The reason why I pull from the grill guard is because there’s actually not much tension there and it’s 1/2” bolted directly to the frame. I do agree with the forks but I’m running out of places to keep the implements until I get my large shop. I leave the tiller on the back all the time to help with weight. Unfortunately, that interferes with the rear draw bar as a connection point.
Absolutely, and that got me thinking “do I even need to cut down the trees firsr?” So, this week I’m going to try pulling down trees fully and popping the stumps out at the same time. That will be my #11 video later this week.
You should be able to sell the trees to a wood lot. If not that, there should be plenty of people who would be glad to come out and take them off your hands for free. If I lived nearby, I would even hire a log truck to haul all of them off. That looks like several years of firewood for my wood stove.
The problem is that almost everything left is pine and no one wants to burn that in their stoves or fireplace. I haven’t found a place yet that wants the trees of any type. If I call them to come get it, they want a minimum of 20 acres.
Camera placement suggestion for the go pro : instead of Centering the stump in frame, move the tree closer to the edge of the frame so we have a good view of the connection point at the end. Nvm.... Second one was framed fine lol. Guess it depends on the size of the stumps
@@jackalltrades767 ah, I see. I’m trying to fix that issue. I’ve tried changing how I have it strapped, but it’s still flying off. I’m trying to find a heavier chain because the chain grabs way better than straps. I still have a ton to do. I was going to do another today, but it’s raining here now, so I have to wait.
You can cut the notch so it angles up towards the top as you get deeper - like the notch in a knitting needle. There would be less or no chance of the straps jumping out of the notch. You can also cut it deeper.
I tried doing that exact thing on the last one, but I didn’t do it deep enough and I did it too close to the top so the notch kept busting on my so I need to do it lower on the stump next time.
I checked and no one wants it. They want 20 acres or nothing. Seriously, they told me their minimum to take from an individual was 20 acres otherwise it’s not worth their time.
If I could give a technique change, try wrapping one or more times around the stump you're pulling. Did this same project for extra credit in college. Good times.
I’m going to start doing this all the time. I didn’t have enough strap on this one to wrap it, but that shouldn’t be a problem for my next 15 stumps or so.
I usually do a compound system every time. The problem with too man compound systems is the synthetic rope is expensive and all of the tension is on one pulley. They are 22,000lb pulleys, but I know my larger stumps were probably close to that.
Man get a choker chain hook for the correct size chain. Choker chains work just like the choker dog collars, the harder you pull the tighter they get. You can put one on any length chain and a regular hook on the other. Those tow straps or tree savers are not made for what you are doing.
The straps are rated way higher than any chain I can find by a large margin. The choker chain I can find here have a working load limit of 4900lb, these straps have a minimum break strength of 35,000lb. I am aware of the difference between WLL and MBS. I use chains at the very end of the pull when the force is lower.
I’m sure you got a new video coming out soon, so I may repost this once. I don’t want you to spend a bunch of money just to satisfy my curiosity, but it would be really cool if you could set up a system where you had enough pulleys to pull a stump by hand. 😂 That would be cool to see once.
That’s awesome and I’ll tell you a secret…. On some of my smaller ones, I tried really hard by hand on a complex system and I just didn’t have it in me. However, I did move it a little, I just can’t get enough traction. I should tie another rope around something and use it to pull myself. I know it’s possible, but the problem gets to be an absurd amount of rope required by the 5 rope or so. You need to move 64’ on one end just to get 1’ of movement. I have enough pulleys to theoretically do it, I just don’t have enough rope or probably strength.
@@brainhomestead6 that’s cool. It just seemed like it might be fun. Especially on a smaller tree. Maybe you need to clip it to a harness on your dogs and wave a cheeseburger in front of them.🤣
@@Dalton325 :) Ok, I think you convinced me. My next tree is a pear and it’s a smaller one, so I’ll try doing like a 50:1 to see if I can get it. I’ll try soaking the ground too to loosen it up.
think the lever idea with the rim whont work , i think it will either push the rim intoo the ground or flatten the rim it might work if you use a winde concrete block , maibe a concrete barrier like they use on roads
I think you’re right too after I thought about it. I think instead, I’ll use a stack of logs since I already have them here and use them as a fulcrum. This will definitely be a learning process. I have 7 more stumps to do before I try pulling the trees down while and popping the stumps out at the same time.
@@brainhomestead6 that might work though the trees you put there as the fulcrum might roll away from the trunk when you start pulling and the ground under them comes up with the roots and in the end might cause the trunk to only come partially out of the fround then snap the trunk in half over the fulcrum , maibe if you put a ratchet strap around the base of the tree youre trying to pull over and use it to pull the fulcrum close to the trunk , might actually want to have the fulcrum off the ground a bit (say a foot or so ) to prevent it from moving away or up the tree up to the point where the tree is allmost down then the whole weight of the tree will bear down on it and either snap the tree on the fulcrum or pull the stump out about the height of the fulcrum in a shower of dirt and splintering roots maibe use an oildrum filled with sand / concrete , you can put eyebolts on that to attach the ratchet strap too
@@watahyahknow that’s lots of good ideas and I had some similar thoughts. I think I’ll also drill some holes around each tree with my tractor and post hole diggers, then let it run water in the holes for a day or two before pulling it down.
@@brainhomestead6 think the roots will grab the auger and pull the tractors front wheels up , the water might help but would allso increase the suction (ever got youre boots stuck in the mud ?) and weigh the rootball down maibe put sumting down the holes that actualy burn the roots up , then again youre trying to put trees back in at some point maibe get a piece of pipe with sawteeth on the end and put that on the auger motor drill those down through the roots in a circle around the tree to weaken them , would be a lot of work though (thinking 20 holes around the tree ) a sudden gust of wind might be enough to fell the tree once youre halfway done with the circle
@@watahyahknow I have augered right by trees before and mine does have teeth on the leading edge of the auger so it goes through small/medium roots. With big roots, it breaks the shear pin to prevent damage to the tractor or post-hole digger. You have a lot of options, I think I’m just going to have to experiment. The good part is if I break a stump off and have to rent a backhoe, it’s not the end of the world.
@@dennisseverns4014 I noticed, but the problem is without the notch it was worse. I’m going to change it to a strap choker configuration for the large twin stumps when I get back to the US.
I thought about that too, but generally if I can get a strap under it, I can lift it out with the tractor instead. The bigger stump was an exception this time though, so I may have to do that in the future.
@@brainhomestead6 at one point i thought you were about to tip the tractor over! Might be quicker too although you have to watch the fence with these ones
@@pauls4708 fortunately I only have really one more by the fence before I get into the stumps well away from the fence! The tractor design does do that but as bad as it looks, it actually hits a limit right there in front suspension travel so it won’t roll. Probably not good for it and made me pucker the first few times it happened!
@@cliffmorgan31 alright, I’ve gotten away from using a chain recently after it broke in my video #2, but it is so much nicer than straps for grabbing the stumps, so I need to get a choker chain, transport grade 70.
It wasn’t actually that close because the suspension has a ton of travel, but it stops the body roll before rollover. It has definitely made me pucker a time or two! I fold the ROPS down because of the amount of trees I go under. Whenever I’m lifting a heavy load I’m still always ready to drop it.
It definitely made me pucker. I didn’t realize until I watched the video later that there was a root holding the whole stump and it let go causing the whole thing to swing on me. Maybe time to throw the rollover bar up.
![#7 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Blocks By Hand! 50:1 Mechanical Advantage Needed [4K 60FPS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GYnrVLIxAy0/mqdefault.jpg)
![#7 Pulling Stumps With Snatch Blocks By Hand! 50:1 Mechanical Advantage Needed [4K 60FPS]](/img/tr.png)
![#9 Pulling Twin Stumps With Snatch Block Pulleys, 14:1 Mechanical Advantage [4K 60FPS]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/shSHbVB4-lc/mqdefault.jpg)
I appreciate your recording and uploading of these videos. I find this very interesting. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, I really appreciate it! I still have tons to do this year.
Thanks for showing us around the property -you are living in a stump heaven 😁
Give me a week or 2 with my chain hoist...
Someone talked me into trying to pull down the trees whole, so after I get done with the next 7 stumps, I’m going to try pulling them down and popping the roots out. I have like 30 more stumps I keep finding throughout the property…. I have tons to keep me going. I think I’m going to have to drill holes around stumps to pull the big ones out.
@@brainhomestead6 I mean that might work, as long as you have a plan on how to get you and your tractor out of the way when the tree starts falling.
I dont think the tractor is gonna pull them over just by itselfe, so you would need some mechanical advantage anyway..
But yeah, why not try it, would like to see if that works too👍
And for the bigger ones: cant you just set a system up where you use them against each other , or are they too far apart?
@@yaykruser all great questions, and I don’t have answers yet. I’m thinking I’ll have to splice some of the cables together to make them long enough.
@@brainhomestead6 I heared for the bamoo you have to let it grow and wait till it produce some leaves.
As soon as it produces some you have to cut it down, and repeat that a few times to kill it.
Theory behind that is that growing takes energy and it only gets that back when the leaves can do photosyntesis.
Idk if thats working though...
@@yaykruser I’ve been trying that for two years now and it’s still around. I think I can get a lot of the roots to it with this next stump.
Research tractor ballast information. It would help you make your tractor more powerful.
There is beet juice for tires, weight racks for front and rear, ballast boxes for using sand or gravel etc..
That information will help you be much more efficient and safe. Good luck young man
From a old Texas tractor man with decades of experience!! REMEMBER SAFETY FIRST!!!
I appreciate it very much and I sure will look it up. I have just been using my tiller on the back because it’s the heaviest implement I’ve got, but I would prefer a proper setup.
I love this video!! I have a giant pine on my property, dead as a hammer, and I spend way too much time scheming how to get rid of it without spending $2,500!! 😊
I’m having some issues with dead trees that I’m trying to figure out a way around.
To make sure the straps don't slip off the tree stump, I drill a one inch hole through the stump under the notch similar to yours and slide in a 7/8 inch round steel bar. across the sump. Using the same type of straps you have, I slip one end of the strap on either side of the tree before wrapping in choker the strap around the stump in the cut,,, Guaranteed results. Plus the stump will tilt on the side and be pulled horizontally.
Does the stump then twist when you’re pulling it out of the choker is not in the center?
@@brainhomestead6 of course,i drill inthe center and bonus ,the stump wont split due to the strap chocking around the stump.
@@brunolaflamme5202 I’m getting ready to do more here shortly. I don’t have a bar laying around here though.
Good stuff man, could watch this all day.
I have 6 videos made and about 50 left to make! I appreciate you watching.
Probably a stupid question, but why not use a heavy duty 5/8 chain around the stumps to allow it to bite in to the wood?
Thanks for any input, cheers!
I can’t find anything over 3/8” chain and I’ve had it break on me. In videos #8 and after I’ve started using the straps in a choke configuration to bite in. They’re easier than chain and higher breaking weight than chain. They are also cheaper.
Love your videos, but I’m also curious why you don’t use chain. A grade 70 3/8” chain had a higher WWL than those straps. You should be using the WLL to determine what straps or chains you’re going to use, not the breaking strength.
I pull a lot of stumps with chains. I have a grab hook on one end of the chain and a slip hook on the other end of the chain (both grade 70).
@@jaronson199 I can’t even find grade 70 3/8” chain here for under $100. I’ve never broken straps, but I think it was video #2 of mine where I broke a chain. It’s just cheaper to use straps and much easier to setup and transport them since they’re so light. I just got turned off of them after I broke one.
Why is watching someone pulling stumps out of the ground so fascinating?
I think because it’s so different and so few people do it.
To keep the pulling force on the stump upward not horizontal use a rolling fulcrum near the stump. An ellipsoidal shape is most effective although a cylindrical shape also works well.
That sounds right, I need a tractor tire to use.
Thats a nice tractor. What tractor is that? Keep trying to catch it but keep missing.
It’s a Case IH, Farmall 70A. 70 horsepower, weighs right at 6000lb. Very good for a small farm like mine.
also buy some forks for the front and simply push the forks under the stump and lift just enough to move it, keeo the front end loader low as possible at all times. never pull from the front grill guard always pull from the lower rear tractor draw bar. not a draw bar located on the three point, the one located at the rear tractor axle housing. just trying to help. love your videos i learned a lot.
The reason why I pull from the grill guard is because there’s actually not much tension there and it’s 1/2” bolted directly to the frame. I do agree with the forks but I’m running out of places to keep the implements until I get my large shop. I leave the tiller on the back all the time to help with weight. Unfortunately, that interferes with the rear draw bar as a connection point.
@@brainhomestead6 gotcha!
Have you thought about watering the soil around the stump the night before the pull?
I’ve had quite a few people mention that and I’m going to start doing that in 2 more videos when I get bigger trees.
Would you get more leverage if you kept the stumps taller?
Absolutely, and that got me thinking “do I even need to cut down the trees firsr?” So, this week I’m going to try pulling down trees fully and popping the stumps out at the same time. That will be my #11 video later this week.
You should be able to sell the trees to a wood lot. If not that, there should be plenty of people who would be glad to come out and take them off your hands for free. If I lived nearby, I would even hire a log truck to haul all of them off. That looks like several years of firewood for my wood stove.
The problem is that almost everything left is pine and no one wants to burn that in their stoves or fireplace. I haven’t found a place yet that wants the trees of any type. If I call them to come get it, they want a minimum of 20 acres.
Camera placement suggestion for the go pro : instead of Centering the stump in frame, move the tree closer to the edge of the frame so we have a good view of the connection point at the end. Nvm.... Second one was framed fine lol. Guess it depends on the size of the stumps
Do you mean where the pulleys are?
No. I found myself on the first video I watched wanting a better view of the connection point on the stump as it loses grip.
@@jackalltrades767 ah, I see. I’m trying to fix that issue. I’ve tried changing how I have it strapped, but it’s still flying off. I’m trying to find a heavier chain because the chain grabs way better than straps. I still have a ton to do. I was going to do another today, but it’s raining here now, so I have to wait.
You can cut the notch so it angles up towards the top as you get deeper - like the notch in a knitting needle. There would be less or no chance of the straps jumping out of the notch. You can also cut it deeper.
I tried doing that exact thing on the last one, but I didn’t do it deep enough and I did it too close to the top so the notch kept busting on my so I need to do it lower on the stump next time.
Anyone else cheer when they saw the wrap? 😂
I knew on the first pull without the wrap I was going to hear it! I’m working on it!
Forget the rap, choke the tree with the span set. Or you need to bind the open ends so they can't come above the end of the stump
I’m getting better with it, but I was at the end of the straps so couldn’t do that this time. Will be able to on the next 3 at least!
@@fredstipak6719 I’m definitely still having issues, but working through them.
If you have enough fighting Uruk-hai, you can move all the trees
I’m not sure what that is.
Might be able to sell some of that old timber and I'm positive you can sell those pines to a lumber mill
I checked and no one wants it. They want 20 acres or nothing. Seriously, they told me their minimum to take from an individual was 20 acres otherwise it’s not worth their time.
If I could give a technique change, try wrapping one or more times around the stump you're pulling. Did this same project for extra credit in college. Good times.
I’m going to start doing this all the time. I didn’t have enough strap on this one to wrap it, but that shouldn’t be a problem for my next 15 stumps or so.
You should try with the whole system as a complex. You can get the same force with half the pulleys.
I usually do a compound system every time. The problem with too man compound systems is the synthetic rope is expensive and all of the tension is on one pulley. They are 22,000lb pulleys, but I know my larger stumps were probably close to that.
Instead of the notch: Why not drill a big hole and but a strong and long screw into the stumb?
I may have to try that. I would worry that it would rip out once the stump got bent over enough.
Man get a choker chain hook for the correct size chain. Choker chains work just like the choker dog collars, the harder you pull the tighter they get. You can put one on any length chain and a regular hook on the other. Those tow straps or tree savers are not made for what you are doing.
The straps are rated way higher than any chain I can find by a large margin. The choker chain I can find here have a working load limit of 4900lb, these straps have a minimum break strength of 35,000lb. I am aware of the difference between WLL and MBS. I use chains at the very end of the pull when the force is lower.
I’m sure you got a new video coming out soon, so I may repost this once. I don’t want you to spend a bunch of money just to satisfy my curiosity, but it would be really cool if you could set up a system where you had enough pulleys to pull a stump by hand. 😂
That would be cool to see once.
That’s awesome and I’ll tell you a secret…. On some of my smaller ones, I tried really hard by hand on a complex system and I just didn’t have it in me. However, I did move it a little, I just can’t get enough traction. I should tie another rope around something and use it to pull myself. I know it’s possible, but the problem gets to be an absurd amount of rope required by the 5 rope or so. You need to move 64’ on one end just to get 1’ of movement. I have enough pulleys to theoretically do it, I just don’t have enough rope or probably strength.
@@brainhomestead6 that’s cool. It just seemed like it might be fun. Especially on a smaller tree.
Maybe you need to clip it to a harness on your dogs and wave a cheeseburger in front of them.🤣
@@Dalton325 :) Ok, I think you convinced me. My next tree is a pear and it’s a smaller one, so I’ll try doing like a 50:1 to see if I can get it. I’ll try soaking the ground too to loosen it up.
@@brainhomestead6 awesome! Hope it works.
@@Dalton325 I’ll start soaking the ground tomorrow and try to pull it Monday or Tuesday.
think the lever idea with the rim whont work , i think it will either push the rim intoo the ground or flatten the rim
it might work if you use a winde concrete block , maibe a concrete barrier like they use on roads
I think you’re right too after I thought about it. I think instead, I’ll use a stack of logs since I already have them here and use them as a fulcrum. This will definitely be a learning process. I have 7 more stumps to do before I try pulling the trees down while and popping the stumps out at the same time.
@@brainhomestead6 that might work though the trees you put there as the fulcrum might roll away from the trunk when you start pulling and the ground under them comes up with the roots and in the end might cause the trunk to only come partially out of the fround then snap the trunk in half over the fulcrum , maibe if you put a ratchet strap around the base of the tree youre trying to pull over and use it to pull the fulcrum close to the trunk , might actually want to have the fulcrum off the ground a bit (say a foot or so ) to prevent it from moving away or up the tree up to the point where the tree is allmost down then the whole weight of the tree will bear down on it and either snap the tree on the fulcrum or pull the stump out about the height of the fulcrum in a shower of dirt and splintering roots
maibe use an oildrum filled with sand / concrete , you can put eyebolts on that to attach the ratchet strap too
@@watahyahknow that’s lots of good ideas and I had some similar thoughts. I think I’ll also drill some holes around each tree with my tractor and post hole diggers, then let it run water in the holes for a day or two before pulling it down.
@@brainhomestead6 think the roots will grab the auger and pull the tractors front wheels up , the water might help but would allso increase the suction (ever got youre boots stuck in the mud ?) and weigh the rootball down
maibe put sumting down the holes that
actualy burn the roots up , then again youre trying to put trees back in at some point
maibe get a piece of pipe with sawteeth on the end and put that on the auger motor drill those down through the roots in a circle around the tree to weaken them , would be a lot of work though (thinking 20 holes around the tree ) a sudden gust of wind might be enough to fell the tree once youre halfway done with the circle
@@watahyahknow I have augered right by trees before and mine does have teeth on the leading edge of the auger so it goes through small/medium roots. With big roots, it breaks the shear pin to prevent damage to the tractor or post-hole digger. You have a lot of options, I think I’m just going to have to experiment. The good part is if I break a stump off and have to rent a backhoe, it’s not the end of the world.
Choke those slings on the stump.
I think I’ve been doing it wrong because it hasn’t helped.
@@brainhomestead6 that basket choke (Basket with a wrap) is better, but will still come off.
@@brainhomestead6 those stumps are splitting where you made the notch.
@@dennisseverns4014 I noticed, but the problem is without the notch it was worse. I’m going to change it to a strap choker configuration for the large twin stumps when I get back to the US.
@@brainhomestead6 th-cam.com/video/4AYYGCBjYoo/w-d-xo.html
Oh, ok, you don't hate trees, you just want to plant your own trees, fruit trees are great.
Got a whole bunch planted now and the grass is growing in.
perhaps you need to wrap a strap under the root ball once you have it tipped over
I thought about that too, but generally if I can get a strap under it, I can lift it out with the tractor instead. The bigger stump was an exception this time though, so I may have to do that in the future.
@@brainhomestead6 at one point i thought you were about to tip the tractor over! Might be quicker too although you have to watch the fence with these ones
@@pauls4708 fortunately I only have really one more by the fence before I get into the stumps well away from the fence! The tractor design does do that but as bad as it looks, it actually hits a limit right there in front suspension travel so it won’t roll. Probably not good for it and made me pucker the first few times it happened!
Try using a choker on the stump
I tried on one, but didn’t have enough extra strap. Strap seems less grabby than chain.
@@brainhomestead6 -
Buy a short strong choker chain. It will bite into the stump.
Lots of sources.
@@cliffmorgan31 alright, I’ve gotten away from using a chain recently after it broke in my video #2, but it is so much nicer than straps for grabbing the stumps, so I need to get a choker chain, transport grade 70.
1:30 you learn on yoyr way 😁 best way to learn
I learn something new every time. Another 30-50 and I might actually know what I’m doing!
Don't get me wrong, I am enjoying your videos, but why do you hate trees so much?
Hahaha!
Almost turned over several time... ROPs folded down??????? Arrrrgh!!!!!
It wasn’t actually that close because the suspension has a ton of travel, but it stops the body roll before rollover. It has definitely made me pucker a time or two! I fold the ROPS down because of the amount of trees I go under. Whenever I’m lifting a heavy load I’m still always ready to drop it.
That was painful to watch. If ever a roll bar was needed, it was then.
It definitely made me pucker. I didn’t realize until I watched the video later that there was a root holding the whole stump and it let go causing the whole thing to swing on me. Maybe time to throw the rollover bar up.