Quick follow up video of how I did the trim install for the right wall: th-cam.com/video/2tXXY20Vr5Q/w-d-xo.html If this was helpful and a time saver and wish to donate , buy me a coffee :) Appreciate you: www.buymeacoffee.com/howtowithlech
I really appreciate you showing the parts where you are struggling. Cause I struggled a lot with fitting this together and I felt really crappy about it. Lol
I just installed my Nextile shower wall system today. I had watched this vid twice which was beneficial thanks, but a couple key points I will make to help people out on top of the help graciously provided by this vid. Point one. The walls have those locking tabs in the back left and right corners as seen in the vid. Basically expect that the need to lift the left and right walls up 1.5 inches above the back wall when pressing against wall and then pulling down to get the tabs locked...expect it to be a problem on the faucet side. Your shower hardware system of choice basically will not have flanges on all places to cover the needed lift and then drop down of the walls to get them to lock. My example: a hand held shower wand that has a 1 in diameter hole. Also my shower valve handle hardware sticks out about 2.5 inches and there was no way I was going to risk screwing up the valve assembly. In the end I decided the wall locking tabs are over engineered and in fact lack forthought about the issues they cause for the brass shower hardware. So I decided to cut the tabs off of my walls to prevent the need to lift the wall 1.5 inches prior to engaging it. But even after that I could not get the wall engaged thanks to the angle needed to get around the valve assembly. So I took an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the extra material off of the sidewalk back that prevented me from connecting the walls. Also, this wall system thanks to the shelf causes you to lose about 3.5 inches of inner shower space--that much less room for your arms while showering. Although your drain valve will be centered to your shower base, your shower head should you have lined it up with your drain appear to be way off centered relative to the inner walls thanks to the protruding shelf. As a result, I moved my shower head to center it over the actual area of the base I'd be standing and swinging my elbows while scrubbing my hair. I'd say dont do a dry fit test. Once your shower base is in you know you have the correct space and then after if you have shower cutouts that don't accommodate an extra 1.5" of hole for sliding the wall down then just cut away their locking system on your valve side. Also one last mod I made. Bottom middle back wall has way too much give and play. Sorry but do dry test bottom back wall and you will see that bottom middle wall where it meets the shower pan can be pushed back with your hand by more than a quarter inch--not good. I took the back back off and then installed PVC trim that was .5 x 1.5 along the back side of shower base to provide backer to stop the excessive flex in the back wall when installed.
Also as someone else smartly posted. Take a cutter blade and clean out the sloppy extra material that remains around the locking tabs from the molding manufacture process. This will set you up for successful attachment and any needed detachment to minimize running into a bind.
To refine what I said above about proactively cutting away the tabs on the valve-side wall: be sure to not touch the tab that joins the upper and lower back walls. Only touch two tabs on top wall and two tabs on lower wall that receive the side wall in four places total. And also, remove the tabs before I say again before! installing the back walls to the studs as otherwise it is very hard to remove those four tabs after install. And also, the grinding I said I did on the valve side wall only reduced thickness of the back edge--note that I did not reduce the front to back dimensions of that side wall.
I should also have stated for anyone checking my entries here is that my install is not over a tub but is a 60x30" shower base with the 4 wall 60x30 kit. The reduced space for elbows it seems is more pronounced with this setup than it may be for tub based installs.
What i like most about this video is you make mistakes and we all make mistakes , But you got the job done that is all that matters. so thanks for this video
Helpful video! Some "shopping" advice here. At 17:30 Lech starts to add the wall that has holes for the valve and tub spout. It is difficult if you try to come at the back wall hooks at an angle as in this video. His approach was to reduce the angle by dismantling the valve. My Delta valve was not made for that (I called them), however, the escutcheon was huge, so I cut the hole larger below center so the wall could be raised 1.5 inches without bumping the valve stem. I also cut wide about an inch to the left of center of the valve so I could slip over valve before the wall was pushed all the way to the back wall. The cut to the left allowed me to reduce that angle of approach to the clips by slipping over the valve and pushing back to the studs (while raising the wall). The wall practically fell in place this way. Lech was using a threaded connector (seen at 21:31) behind the wall to avoid the spout getting in the way during wall installation. That was smart. I wish I'd thought of that approach while shopping plumbing parts. So, make sure your escutcheon will cover holes 1.5 inches below the valve and maybe 1 inch to the left.
EXCELLENT video! Thanks for leaving all of the initial installation steps in there too... even tho it wasn't fitting together smoothly at first. Watching this gave me some fantastic insight as to what to expect. Great video. Thanks so much for sharing!
Your videos are so helpful! I appreciate how you take the time to explain everything you do step-by-step. Thank you for showing the issues that came up during the install process. That helps people like me who are doing this for the first time and will probably have the same issues. You are very talented and I look forward to seeing your success and channel continue to grow!!
Getting ready to install the same surround and I want you to know that I really enjoyed your video because you are a DIY like me . You are just the kind of video I wanted to see, not some pro.
TIp: check the latch parts on each panel for burrs and frayed excess material... On my unit, they were poorly machined and I had no issue after deburring them with a boxcutter
Im glad you are showing your struggle when installing the wall with the water inlet spouts! Thats exactly the issue i was looking to fix and appreciate im not the only one having a problem here! haha!
Im installing mine now and the back wall piece where it hits the tub is a bit loose. Meaning you can push on it and it gives about an inch. did you notice this issue???
@@kona6451 it shoudl be installed against the studs. it might be a little loose by the tub, but when put on the side walls that will tigten it up. plus you will clauk all that. but should not be moving a lot once all 3 walls are on and screwed down to the 2x4s
Lech this is amazing. I am installing the Nextile for our tub surround and we just got it mid-June. I feel so much more confident because you showed all of the hurdles to dry fitting and installing. Thank you very much. It looks like the same situation as with our alcove - even the stud placement around the plumbing. Our tub was also not exactly level. Their extra surprise flange on the side walls is an issue. Interested to see the finish drywall work!
@@HowToWithLech like how do you put the tile in that section... It looks smooth, like doesn't look like it would stick .. I got the same nextile setup, but I haven't even taken it out box yet lol
@@lavonn188 yeah it is smooth. but it will stick fine. just have to use the good sealant for adhesive as they recommend. mine been up a year now. all good..
Looks amazing, I only have 1 problem with Nextile shower surround panels. Are you ready, Yes 1 major problem w them! Lech you need to tell your viewers! When those panels are installed. THEY FRICKEN PROTRUDE OUT ABOUT 4 INCHES INTO YOU SHOWERING SPACE!!!! When you put those panels on they literally take away 4 inches and extend 4 inches more into your showering space!!
@@RenovatingMama Yeah something to consider, because I wouldn't want anything protruding in to my space while I am trying to take a shower. Really niches are suppose to go into walls, between the studs. Something to consider because if you get a "30 tube and then these walls are going to protrude so takes off another "3? Better consider that, if you are doing a job for some one. They might just be pissed off about that. Then all hard work for nothing. Yup i said it "3 in protruding into your shower space. Next time you are taking a shower, see how close does it take for your shoulders to rub against the walls. And then consider those "3 or "4's.
The bottom of the main back wall has some give which will immediately break the silicone seal if someone leans on it. All walls are lined up perfectly. Does yours do the same? Any recommendations?
Larry, I'm having the same issue and my framing/flooring was pretty freaking level. Debating going the caulkless route with this and hoping to let the water simply drain after each shower. Trying to silicon a flexing wall will never work and trap water if anything, imo 🤷♂️
all walls and tub has to sit snug against all walls. same with floor / tub has to be lever. the only way will work correctly .thank can caulk all the corners etc. @@Keatgsr07
Hi! We just installed this in our bathroom, thank you for the vid! We have this exact setup and wondering if your wall piece appears to bow as well. Not loving the look after we’ve installed in. Thanks!
The shelf section comes out a little bit should not really be noticeable. Did some follow up videos on that. All walls should be right against the studs
I have a steel enameled porcelain tub. Will most wall kits fit on it? Or are wall kits made For specific tubs. I bought one with the correct dimensions to fit my alcove and assumed it will fit the tub even tho they are different brands and not made together as one unit? The tub has a flange so I’m hoping the wall kit can just sit over the flange of the tub, I can screw it and use construction adhesive to hold it in place. Then caulk where they meet to make sure no water gets through. I’ve tried google but with no luck I don’t want to tile and I also don’t wanna buy a fiber glass tub because my kids cracked the last one while taking a bath not even 2 years after it was installed. The water also ruined one wall that also was new plaster maybe 2 years old, and did minor damage to the ceiling, I think a little sanding, and a coat of Zinsser will fix that, but a 2’x8’ section of the wall needs to be replaced for sure which sucks because it’s against a window so my crown, chair, floor, and the window molding all have to come off while the repair is made. Anyway I wanted a stronger tub and I’m hoping it’ll work with the wall surround kit I bought.
thanks for the video. installing the same one. unfortunately the walls for the walls on ours has some sort of defect. the surface has blotches all over it when you look at it at an angle.
Lech, curious as to how you caulked/sealed? My install looks great and went well, however there's definitely some flex/give where the panels meet the tub. How's that going to hold? Can this kit hold up over time as a caulkless unit, let the water drain downhill on its own?
How much space should there be between shower wall and tub? A small gap for silicone calking? Also we are having an issue with our shower valve not sticking out for enough to screw on, any suggestions?
you mean the studs.. tub should be right agains the wall studs. and then the walls install right onto the 2x4 studs and over the tub lip. shower valve I installed new so adjusted to what needed. hope that helps.
Hi, very useful video. I've read that with direct to stud it's best to have insulation so the walls won't wobble and to prevent a hollow sound. Do you feel you should have added insulation?
I would like to see how you joined the drywall at both ends. At the end opposite from the faucets, did you cut the drywall back to the nearest stud then reattach a wider piece to cover the edge of the surround?
I just bought an installed for the most part this tub surround kit. I have Boeing on the bottom centerpiece, which worries me when caulking I’ve double checked 1 million times and I have plenty of space between studs shows 60 1/4 on top and bottom. Did you have any problems caulking the bottom? If I push in on the center of the bottom part of the wall, it pushes into the tub flange
@@ibrutalxmlgI got a really good caulk and caulked it in place (took a lot of caulk). I didn’t push it in and caulk it as I was worried it would pull away eventually. I have kids so I was worried they would push in the bowed spot after caulking. I believe I put enough caulking that it secured the bottom and back of the wall. It’s actually pretty sturdy and has been working out
What did you do where the shower meets that corner edge on the right side? Just drywall up to it? Doing the same install and unsure of the best approach.
This is the exact kit I’m looking to replace mine with. Do you have any regrets or things you wish you did differently in hindsight? I am concerned about waterproofing since it’s direct to stud and was hoping maybe I could do a minor but of waterproofing behind it (esp because this is an outer wall and I live in Alaska).
No. I love it. Easy to clean and no leaks. No need to waterproof behind. Just silicone / caulk seams and it solid. Did couple follow up videos on it. Check them out.
Great video- my condo requires cement board or fire resistant dry wall on all surfaces that adjoin other units. I am assuming that I can install the drywall/cement board on the 3 walls and then attach the nex tile panels to the studs through the drywall. Can you please provide your thoughts on using this approach?
It’s made to go right on studs. But sure you can do it that way. Just note that because of the dry wall behind it. It will be pushed out more, so will have little space to sit on tub sides.. might be flush with tub walls. That’s my worry. Maybe just use thin cement boards, like hardibacker . Or fill space between studs
I have Hardie board backing. Of course now my large side panel won’t fit! So my option is to? Remove the back Hardie board? And just use the studs….Correct?
What is your framing rough-in? 60" w is causing a bow in the back wall for me. If I move the side wall framing, the back wall lays flush but then I'm away from the tub flange.
Hi, Im thinking of installing this in my bathroom but the sample one in the store showed the wall (with the square hole) to be angled, like leaning back. I wasn’t sure if it was the floor sample that wasn’t set right. Is it supposed to be angled? Or is it supposed to be flat? Like a 90 degree angle
I'm installing one of these, but I have existing drywall so wondering how high up on the ends I should cut out, you mentioned an inch and a half, or is 2" better? Thanks!
You will have to drywall over the lip on top. At least that’s the process. But if want to cut more flush probably 2” or so yeah. But would measure first
I hope you’re still checking comments, but how did you level the tub itself? Did you just use shims, or a leveling compound? I’m in an old house so the floor is not level. On top of that, none of the floor in the bathroom is level lol so using leveling compound might cause me problems with meeting the flooring.
Always. Mine was pretty level so just had to adjust a little. If minimal You can do some shims. Just make sure it’s all solid. Leveling compound great option if can do it.
What would you do if the copper tub spout is already installed? Will the wall corner of the shower pivot at a wide enough angle to be pushed on and around the spout or do you install that first?
Great video. How did you address the gap on the back wall you mentioned in the beginning, due to being slightly longer than 60”? I’m facing the same issue - 1/2” gap. Thinking of sliding a piece of concrete board behind to fill.
hi. dont think i had issues with the gab on back wall with the height. screwed the top lip down to the 2x4's and then covered with sheetrock.. if any 2x4 not even, you can use shims to level the wall. the left wall i had to add a 2x4 so can screw down the lip, as there wasnt any there.
Running into that same exact issue Installed directly onto frame. When placing Sheetrock there was a gap. I used the slats I removed from that wall. (Old house. Thank goodness I didn’t trash them.). Thanks for answering this question. I was second guessing myself. Thanks for the confirmation 😃
@@HowToWithLech Got it. Looks like we are both using the delta multichoice. From the video looks like you mounted stringer tight to the drywall on the back of the stud? Thanks man. I have watched this video like 100x lol
Hi Lech, great job on the bathroom and video. Can I use a jigsaw to trim the walls as needed ? I didn't hear what you had used to cut the tab off. Thanks.
Hi, quick question. Is the lower panel slanted, making it look buckle? Mine does for some reason, but not sure if it's normal or mone came defected. Top look good, but the bottom panel doesn't.
Did you do a video of how to install tile to the niche? Do you attach it just with the DAP and then grout it? This is my first tile install for a bathtub niche.
Nice install! I'm doing the same thing to my bathroom. I'm really curious what you did to the copper pipe for the diverter tub spout. Brass to brass fitting to thread it in after the siding went up?
In regards to the bottom pipe for your faucet, how did you re-solder it without ruining the insert? We were having issues with not having enough room in the holes for the pipping to go through to lift up and latch and all our plumbing is already solder in.
The pipe for faucet is soldiered to the threaded insert and then I just screw that into the pipe already in the wall .that will be the only way I think. I had to make my hole little wider too as first time didn’t align correctly.
The lower piece of the back wall feels pretty loose on mine where it meets the tub. I can push it forward and back quite a bit. Did you have that problem, and did you do anything to fix it?
Would it be possible to install this surround with the back wall straight (frame around the niche and secure it to the studs)? I was very close to purchasing this product until I noticed it encroached on the shower area. Thanks,
We did the dry fit, and now we can't pop them out for installing with shims and nails. Any suggestions on popping them apart because the walls are not budging. This wasn't demonstrated in the video. Thanks
Hello, I just bought the Nextile surround. But I think I have to install new studs due to water damage. It seems like a big project to take on. But, it’s not rocket science. Want to be well informed before taking down the drywall. Do you have any suggestions? thank you for your videos. Stay safe and healthy.🙂
Just take the wall down, you'll be fine. I actually did a vide on removing the tub tiled walls etc. check it out, i think it will just add to your confidence to move forward. same with tub removal etc. then when you take down, you'll see if studs actually need replacing. if they do . not big deal. just have to be carefull not to damage the sheetrock wall on ther side if any.
Hey there installing this tomorrow. I see you don't have the tub spout copper line sticking out. Mine is soldered sticking out ready to go. Am I going to have issues getting the valve side on with that sticking out?
My Contractor recently purchased this shower stall for our guest cottage but the pannel under the niche does seem straight to me and it is kind of crooked at the bottom. I see the same thing in your finished video too. Is this expected?
not at all. or barely if that. i did follow up video so check that out. i showed all measurements to show exactly how much space there is , and what is lost. thanks
@@HowToWithLech Thanks for the quick reply and reassuring my thoughts will work I am thinking of using ‘J’ channels to keep the drywall dry where it touches the edges
Hi, was actually hard to find all black hardware. Not many options out there. Ordered online from HomeDepot: Delta Trinsic 1-Handle Wall Mount Tub and Shower Trim Kit with H2Okinetic in Matte Black (Valve and Shower Head Not Included) In2ition Two-in-One 4-Spray 3 in. Dual Wall Mount Fixed and Handheld H2Okinetic Shower Head in Matte Black Westbrass 1-1/2 in. NPSM Tip Toe Tub Trim Set with 2-Hole Overflow Faceplate in Matte Black
@@HowToWithLech Hello. Can you give me some more detail on how you installed the tiles? My contractor doesn't think the instructions given in the manual will work; he thinks the tiles won't stick to that smooth surface and that the sealant will sip through the tiles and make it difficult to clean up before applying the grout. I really like the look, but he's so hesitant to do it than it's making me doubt as well. Thank you so much for your help!
@@basquebombshell Hi. Honestly i got the recommended adhesive for the tiles (you can even ask someone in hope depot to recommend one) and just attached as instructed per directions. It works out fine. the adhesive its made for this. the surface is fine to attach to. after a day, i did the grout and all worked out just fine. Been months so far and no issues. best part is, its not a lot of tile, and can be redone if you dont like it. But the adhesive will hold the tiles just fine.
This is one of the more well-explained videos I've seen. Thank you for putting this together. Does Nextile allow for custom shower sizes? Or only in fixed sizes? Thanks.
Hi, honestly i dont think so. and you use shims or strips where needed if sticking away too much. you're putting right over 2x4 so shodul be easier to deal with. but the bathtub has to be perfectly level. as you seen in my video, i messed up the first time. my house was built in the 50's so crooked all over. i found beer cans in my walls from teh 50s lol
Hi, I saw in the reviews for this product that some people wrote that it protrudes inwards because of the shelf, so you end up losing bathing space. Did you find this to be true? I couldn't really tell if it was protruding forward in your video.
Question. They only make this in 30” according to the manufacturer. I really love this surround though. My new tub is going to be 32” would that look weird?
Can you tell me what the area of the tub is inside? i want to do the shower surround that is similar however, i feel once shower door is on may be too narrow for comfort
![ILLSLICK X YOUNGOHM - We're The same [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/yUJNkobYR0E/mqdefault.jpg)
Quick follow up video of how I did the trim install for the right wall: th-cam.com/video/2tXXY20Vr5Q/w-d-xo.html
If this was helpful and a time saver and wish to donate , buy me a coffee :) Appreciate you: www.buymeacoffee.com/howtowithlech
I really appreciate you showing the parts where you are struggling. Cause I struggled a lot with fitting this together and I felt really crappy about it. Lol
Yeah. I feel that’s the parts that are always missing. Everyone trying to look perfect. 😉👊
I just installed my Nextile shower wall system today. I had watched this vid twice which was beneficial thanks, but a couple key points I will make to help people out on top of the help graciously provided by this vid. Point one. The walls have those locking tabs in the back left and right corners as seen in the vid. Basically expect that the need to lift the left and right walls up 1.5 inches above the back wall when pressing against wall and then pulling down to get the tabs locked...expect it to be a problem on the faucet side. Your shower hardware system of choice basically will not have flanges on all places to cover the needed lift and then drop down of the walls to get them to lock. My example: a hand held shower wand that has a 1 in diameter hole. Also my shower valve handle hardware sticks out about 2.5 inches and there was no way I was going to risk screwing up the valve assembly. In the end I decided the wall locking tabs are over engineered and in fact lack forthought about the issues they cause for the brass shower hardware. So I decided to cut the tabs off of my walls to prevent the need to lift the wall 1.5 inches prior to engaging it. But even after that I could not get the wall engaged thanks to the angle needed to get around the valve assembly. So I took an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the extra material off of the sidewalk back that prevented me from connecting the walls. Also, this wall system thanks to the shelf causes you to lose about 3.5 inches of inner shower space--that much less room for your arms while showering. Although your drain valve will be centered to your shower base, your shower head should you have lined it up with your drain appear to be way off centered relative to the inner walls thanks to the protruding shelf. As a result, I moved my shower head to center it over the actual area of the base I'd be standing and swinging my elbows while scrubbing my hair. I'd say dont do a dry fit test. Once your shower base is in you know you have the correct space and then after if you have shower cutouts that don't accommodate an extra 1.5" of hole for sliding the wall down then just cut away their locking system on your valve side. Also one last mod I made. Bottom middle back wall has way too much give and play. Sorry but do dry test bottom back wall and you will see that bottom middle wall where it meets the shower pan can be pushed back with your hand by more than a quarter inch--not good. I took the back back off and then installed PVC trim that was .5 x 1.5 along the back side of shower base to provide backer to stop the excessive flex in the back wall when installed.
Also as someone else smartly posted. Take a cutter blade and clean out the sloppy extra material that remains around the locking tabs from the molding manufacture process. This will set you up for successful attachment and any needed detachment to minimize running into a bind.
To refine what I said above about proactively cutting away the tabs on the valve-side wall: be sure to not touch the tab that joins the upper and lower back walls. Only touch two tabs on top wall and two tabs on lower wall that receive the side wall in four places total. And also, remove the tabs before I say again before! installing the back walls to the studs as otherwise it is very hard to remove those four tabs after install. And also, the grinding I said I did on the valve side wall only reduced thickness of the back edge--note that I did not reduce the front to back dimensions of that side wall.
Thanks for sharing. 👍👊
I should also have stated for anyone checking my entries here is that my install is not over a tub but is a 60x30" shower base with the 4 wall 60x30 kit. The reduced space for elbows it seems is more pronounced with this setup than it may be for tub based installs.
I'm glad you showed the troubles you had as well! We had the exact same problem! Looks great!
Glad it helped you 👍
What i like most about this video is you make mistakes and we all make mistakes , But you got the job done that is all that matters. so thanks for this video
appreciate that
Helpful video! Some "shopping" advice here. At 17:30 Lech starts to add the wall that has holes for the valve and tub spout. It is difficult if you try to come at the back wall hooks at an angle as in this video. His approach was to reduce the angle by dismantling the valve. My Delta valve was not made for that (I called them), however, the escutcheon was huge, so I cut the hole larger below center so the wall could be raised 1.5 inches without bumping the valve stem. I also cut wide about an inch to the left of center of the valve so I could slip over valve before the wall was pushed all the way to the back wall. The cut to the left allowed me to reduce that angle of approach to the clips by slipping over the valve and pushing back to the studs (while raising the wall). The wall practically fell in place this way. Lech was using a threaded connector (seen at 21:31) behind the wall to avoid the spout getting in the way during wall installation. That was smart. I wish I'd thought of that approach while shopping plumbing parts. So, make sure your escutcheon will cover holes 1.5 inches below the valve and maybe 1 inch to the left.
Thanks for sharing 👍
EXCELLENT video! Thanks for leaving all of the initial installation steps in there too... even tho it wasn't fitting together smoothly at first. Watching this gave me some fantastic insight as to what to expect. Great video. Thanks so much for sharing!
Glad to help. Did some follow up clips too. 👍👊
Customer purchased this same application I searched TH-cam and here we are thank you sir
Nice. 😉
Your videos are so helpful! I appreciate how you take the time to explain everything you do step-by-step. Thank you for showing the issues that came up during the install process. That helps people like me who are doing this for the first time and will probably have the same issues. You are very talented and I look forward to seeing your success and channel continue to grow!!
Appreciate that. I try. 👊
Getting ready to install the same surround and I want you to know that I really enjoyed your video because you are a DIY like me . You are just the kind of video I wanted to see, not some pro.
appreciate that. good luck.
I'm into it full swing. What are the screws you are using, maybe you said it and I missed it.
TIp: check the latch parts on each panel for burrs and frayed excess material... On my unit, they were poorly machined and I had no issue after deburring them with a boxcutter
Nice. Thanks for sharing
Im glad you are showing your struggle when installing the wall with the water inlet spouts! Thats exactly the issue i was looking to fix and appreciate im not the only one having a problem here! haha!
Happy to help. 💪
Thanks for the video I bought the same one from depot I was very happy to find a video of the exact same surround. Good video keep up the good work
hi. exactly what I made this video. there was nothing out there, and just had to help other see the process. thanks
Thank you. Finishing up my installation (hopefully today). This was very helpful. I've been watching this a few times over the last 48 hours.
glad to help. i did some follow up videos for this if you need.
Im installing mine now and the back wall piece where it hits the tub is a bit loose. Meaning you can push on it and it gives about an inch. did you notice this issue???
@@kona6451 it shoudl be installed against the studs. it might be a little loose by the tub, but when put on the side walls that will tigten it up. plus you will clauk all that. but should not be moving a lot once all 3 walls are on and screwed down to the 2x4s
Thank you so much, Lech!! I have been searching for a bathtub surround and a video for more than 3 weeks. Finally, I found this one.👍👍👍👍👍
Reason why I did it. Glad to help
Lech this is amazing. I am installing the Nextile for our tub surround and we just got it mid-June. I feel so much more confident because you showed all of the hurdles to dry fitting and installing. Thank you very much. It looks like the same situation as with our alcove - even the stud placement around the plumbing. Our tub was also not exactly level. Their extra surprise flange on the side walls is an issue. Interested to see the finish drywall work!
Hope all worked out. I'll have to make a better video of the finished bathroom.
I picked the same surround...thank God u made this video!
👍
Nice job - looking at installing these in our new home. Thanks for showing the mess ups as well as success!
Glad it helped :)
@@HowToWithLech i didnt understand wat you said about the mosiac tile in the soap holder part
@@lavonn188 what the question? im going to try and do a quick video to show how i did that part. stay tunned
@@HowToWithLech like how do you put the tile in that section... It looks smooth, like doesn't look like it would stick ..
I got the same nextile setup, but I haven't even taken it out box yet lol
@@lavonn188 yeah it is smooth. but it will stick fine. just have to use the good sealant for adhesive as they recommend. mine been up a year now. all good..
Amazing work! Love how classic and simple the finished bathroom is
Thanks so much!
Looks amazing, I only have 1 problem with Nextile shower surround panels. Are you ready, Yes 1 major problem w them! Lech you need to tell your viewers! When those panels are installed. THEY FRICKEN PROTRUDE OUT ABOUT 4 INCHES INTO YOU SHOWERING SPACE!!!! When you put those panels on they literally take away 4 inches and extend 4 inches more into your showering space!!
@@Brian-vz7xe How else are you to get a niche if it doesn't protrude into the space?
@@RenovatingMama Yeah something to consider, because I wouldn't want anything protruding in to my space while I am trying to take a shower. Really niches are suppose to go into walls, between the studs. Something to consider because if you get a "30 tube and then these walls are going to protrude so takes off another "3? Better consider that, if you are doing a job for some one. They might just be pissed off about that. Then all hard work for nothing. Yup i said it "3 in protruding into your shower space. Next time you are taking a shower, see how close does it take for your shoulders to rub against the walls. And then consider those "3 or "4's.
Thank you. I was thinking about installing this tub surround and you gave me the confidence I needed. Great job.
Awesome. Glad to help.
I would have loved to see the drywall trim installed above.
Very helpful though
Pretty straight forward. I did some follow up videos on finishes
Perfect video bro!
I do acrylic shower systems
And imma try this on a customer, have never done it ,
But now I’m going in with confidence!
Thanks
Nice. 👊👍
Nice job.. ive got a whole house renovation coming up and I might start making videos.
do it. but it will take you 2x longer to get work done lol
The bottom of the main back wall has some give which will immediately break the silicone seal if someone leans on it. All walls are lined up perfectly. Does yours do the same? Any recommendations?
All walls should sit right agains the 2x4 framing. Should not have any give. Make sure the framing is level and square.
Larry, I'm having the same issue and my framing/flooring was pretty freaking level. Debating going the caulkless route with this and hoping to let the water simply drain after each shower. Trying to silicon a flexing wall will never work and trap water if anything, imo 🤷♂️
all walls and tub has to sit snug against all walls. same with floor / tub has to be lever. the only way will work correctly .thank can caulk all the corners etc. @@Keatgsr07
Is it good to put backer board behind these panels
Thank you for all the extra tips
👊👍
Hi! We just installed this in our bathroom, thank you for the vid! We have this exact setup and wondering if your wall piece appears to bow as well. Not loving the look after we’ve installed in. Thanks!
The shelf section comes out a little bit should not really be noticeable. Did some follow up videos on that.
All walls should be right against the studs
Thank you so much for this video! Can you tell me how deep the shelf is once you have the tiles in thank you 😊
Tiles only took away maybee 3/8”
Great video, helped me a lot! Thanks for posting it.
Happy to help. Have a few related to it posted.
Does it let you flip the side with the shelf so the shelf is on top instead of the middle?
Thanks for the info. and taking us along for the ride...good job!
Ofcourse 👍
I have a steel enameled porcelain tub. Will most wall kits fit on it? Or are wall kits made
For specific tubs. I bought one with the correct dimensions to fit my alcove and assumed it will fit the tub even tho they are different brands and not made together as one unit? The tub has a flange so I’m hoping the wall kit can just sit over the flange of the tub, I can screw it and use construction adhesive to hold it in place. Then caulk where they meet to make sure no water gets through. I’ve tried google but with no luck I don’t want to tile and I also don’t wanna buy a fiber glass tub because my kids cracked the last one while taking a bath not even 2 years after it was installed. The water also ruined one wall that also was new plaster maybe 2 years old, and did minor damage to the ceiling, I think a little sanding, and a coat of Zinsser will fix that, but a 2’x8’ section of the wall needs to be replaced for sure which sucks because it’s against a window so my crown, chair, floor, and the window molding all have to come off while the repair is made. Anyway I wanted a stronger tub and I’m hoping it’ll work with the wall surround kit I bought.
It will fit the tub if its the same space measurements. Each kit has sizing listed.
thanks for the video. installing the same one. unfortunately the walls for the walls on ours has some sort of defect. the surface has blotches all over it when you look at it at an angle.
Weird. Can you replace? I hope so
@@HowToWithLech yea home depot said I could bring it in for store credit.
Lech, curious as to how you caulked/sealed? My install looks great and went well, however there's definitely some flex/give where the panels meet the tub. How's that going to hold?
Can this kit hold up over time as a caulkless unit, let the water drain downhill on its own?
We are also worried about this. Called the company about it and I was told that caulking it fixes it. I personally highly doubt it.. way to much flex
All should be flush against studs. Should not flex. Then caulked all the seams. No issue
How much space should there be between shower wall and tub? A small gap for silicone calking? Also we are having an issue with our shower valve not sticking out for enough to screw on, any suggestions?
you mean the studs.. tub should be right agains the wall studs. and then the walls install right onto the 2x4 studs and over the tub lip. shower valve I installed new so adjusted to what needed. hope that helps.
Do you have to caulk or is the snapping designed to keep water from running back??? Really would appreciate feedback!!
Yes have to caulk. I actually just video on that to show how. Will post soon.
Do you drywall OVER the lip around the panels?
Yes
Trim Tex Shower bead is a great product. Don’t use paper tape!
Hi, very useful video. I've read that with direct to stud it's best to have insulation so the walls won't wobble and to prevent a hollow sound. Do you feel you should have added insulation?
U need insulation on outside facing walls. Indoor walls is optional. If you have the funds it doesn’t hurt
I would like to see how you joined the drywall at both ends.
At the end opposite from the faucets, did you cut the drywall back to the nearest stud then reattach a wider piece to cover the edge of the surround?
Yeah basically. Cut it for flush fit, and over the surround lip. Then I painted and siliconed to surround.
I just bought an installed for the most part this tub surround kit. I have Boeing on the bottom centerpiece, which worries me when caulking I’ve double checked 1 million times and I have plenty of space between studs shows 60 1/4 on top and bottom. Did you have any problems caulking the bottom? If I push in on the center of the bottom part of the wall, it pushes into the tub flange
I have the same issue as you for the middle bottom piece being able to be pushed in. How did you remedy it?
@@ibrutalxmlgI got a really good caulk and caulked it in place (took a lot of caulk). I didn’t push it in and caulk it as I was worried it would pull away eventually. I have kids so I was worried they would push in the bowed spot after caulking. I believe I put enough caulking that it secured the bottom and back of the wall. It’s actually pretty sturdy and has been working out
@@ibrutalxmlglet me know if you need a better description
What did you do where the shower meets that corner edge on the right side? Just drywall up to it? Doing the same install and unsure of the best approach.
These all 3 sides go against the studs. Once installed drywall on top over the lip and silicone etc. I did follow up video to show
thank you how did you mesure out the valve hole at first ?
I think I shoes in video. But after is talking piping. Measure from top of tub and from wall. And that will give you the spot
This is the exact kit I’m looking to replace mine with. Do you have any regrets or things you wish you did differently in hindsight? I am concerned about waterproofing since it’s direct to stud and was hoping maybe I could do a minor but of waterproofing behind it (esp because this is an outer wall and I live in Alaska).
No. I love it. Easy to clean and no leaks. No need to waterproof behind. Just silicone / caulk seams and it solid. Did couple follow up videos on it. Check them out.
Great video- my condo requires cement board or fire resistant dry wall on all surfaces that adjoin other units. I am assuming that I can install the drywall/cement board on the 3 walls and then attach the nex tile panels to the studs through the drywall. Can you please provide your thoughts on using this approach?
It’s made to go right on studs. But sure you can do it that way. Just note that because of the dry wall behind it. It will be pushed out more, so will have little space to sit on tub sides.. might be flush with tub walls. That’s my worry. Maybe just use thin cement boards, like hardibacker . Or fill space between studs
Smart to do your final torquing with a screwdriver. Gives you more control to prevent over torque.
yes!
I have Hardie board backing. Of course now my large side panel won’t fit! So my option is to? Remove the back Hardie board? And just use the studs….Correct?
yeah. this is meant to go directly over the studs. otherwise it wont sit on top of the tub correctly .
What is your framing rough-in? 60" w is causing a bow in the back wall for me. If I move the side wall framing, the back wall lays flush but then I'm away from the tub flange.
It would be same as tub size used in this setup.
can i install a safety handle on this back wall panel
Would have to connect to studs. But doable. Walls are thick.
How did you put the tile on the back wall where the cove is
Did follow up video on that
Hi, Im thinking of installing this in my bathroom but the sample one in the store showed the wall (with the square hole) to be angled, like leaning back. I wasn’t sure if it was the floor sample that wasn’t set right.
Is it supposed to be angled? Or is it supposed to be flat? Like a 90 degree angle
The bottom wall is angled cause of the shelf. That’s normal.
I'm installing one of these, but I have existing drywall so wondering how high up on the ends I should cut out, you mentioned an inch and a half, or is 2" better? Thanks!
You will have to drywall over the lip on top. At least that’s the process. But if want to cut more flush probably 2” or so yeah. But would measure first
Lech, thanks. Today 9/2022, one costs $539 in Lowe's in Kailua Kona Hawaii! Besides caulking it to the tub, did you caulk the vertical inside corners?
oh yeah. prices going up nicely. yes caulked all the seams where the walls connected. under the shelf too.
@@HowToWithLech Thanks. actually that price is for the taller model that's 72 inch tall:
No backer board for moisture/mold?
Correct. This kit goes against studs. Once installed it’s sealed. No moisture getting through it.
I hope you’re still checking comments, but how did you level the tub itself? Did you just use shims, or a leveling compound?
I’m in an old house so the floor is not level. On top of that, none of the floor in the bathroom is level lol so using leveling compound might cause me problems with meeting the flooring.
Always. Mine was pretty level so just had to adjust a little. If minimal You can do some shims. Just make sure it’s all solid. Leveling compound great option if can do it.
Nicely done my man
Thanks 👍
What would you do if the copper tub spout is already installed? Will the wall corner of the shower pivot at a wide enough angle to be pushed on and around the spout or do you install that first?
I tried. No. You have to remove it. And install it once the wall is on already. Hope that explains it.
Great video. How did you address the gap on the back wall you mentioned in the beginning, due to being slightly longer than 60”? I’m facing the same issue - 1/2” gap. Thinking of sliding a piece of concrete board behind to fill.
hi. dont think i had issues with the gab on back wall with the height. screwed the top lip down to the 2x4's and then covered with sheetrock.. if any 2x4 not even, you can use shims to level the wall. the left wall i had to add a 2x4 so can screw down the lip, as there wasnt any there.
Running into that same exact issue
Installed directly onto frame. When placing Sheetrock there was a gap. I used the slats I removed from that wall. (Old house. Thank goodness I didn’t trash them.). Thanks for answering this question. I was second guessing myself. Thanks for the confirmation 😃
@howtowithlech Thinking about installing the same shower. How is it holding up?
Still all solid. Very happy with it
@@HowToWithLech that's all I needed to hear. My man!
Bootz tub surround is not ada certified for a grab bar, hmmm. Any suggestions?
its pretty solid. but if installing a grab bar, make sure it goes into the 2x4"s behind tub surround to be safe.
Awesome video. With the stringer for the shower valve, how deep did you set it? Thanks!
The valve directions tell yiu. Different styles might be different. Sorry dont remember the exact measuree
@@HowToWithLech Got it. Looks like we are both using the delta multichoice. From the video looks like you mounted stringer tight to the drywall on the back of the stud? Thanks man. I have watched this video like 100x lol
@@rileylavin1272 ah nice. yeah, something like that. sorry its been a while thanks for watching.
Is there any way possible to grout the lines in the faux tiles?
Maybee paint. It’s not deep enough for actual grout
Hi Lech, great job on the bathroom and video. Can I use a jigsaw to trim the walls as needed ? I didn't hear what you had used to cut the tab off. Thanks.
Should work. probably use a metal cutting blade. i used a high speed rotary tool. like a Dremel.
Hi, quick question. Is the lower panel slanted, making it look buckle? Mine does for some reason, but not sure if it's normal or mone came defected. Top look good, but the bottom panel doesn't.
Yes it is because of the shelf. To allow more space on bottom.
Did you do a video of how to install tile to the niche? Do you attach it just with the DAP and then grout it? This is my first tile install for a bathtub niche.
Yes I did follow up videos on this. Check the bathroom renovation section on my channel. Thanks.
Nice install! I'm doing the same thing to my bathroom. I'm really curious what you did to the copper pipe for the diverter tub spout. Brass to brass fitting to thread it in after the siding went up?
Oh. I have it shown in the other video. Check out my bathroom section on my channel.
Contractor installed this surround for us , the side pieces look bowed out in the center...is this normal?
Looks beautiful! Ordering that shower now. Hope the shower still looks this good.
Have fun. 👊
No caulking necessary for the wall connections?
Yes, need to caulk.
In regards to the bottom pipe for your faucet, how did you re-solder it without ruining the insert? We were having issues with not having enough room in the holes for the pipping to go through to lift up and latch and all our plumbing is already solder in.
The pipe for faucet is soldiered to the threaded insert and then I just screw that into the pipe already in the wall .that will be the only way I think. I had to make my hole little wider too as first time didn’t align correctly.
The lower piece of the back wall feels pretty loose on mine where it meets the tub. I can push it forward and back quite a bit. Did you have that problem, and did you do anything to fix it?
Should be snug against the studs. And sitting level on the tub. Should not be loose. Especially after side walls are up
We added an extra 2x4 to ours in the middle of bottom so it wouldn’t push in
nice. good thinking@@kaylakettlewell5320
If you push your finger in the middle does it feel sturdy? How is is built?
Yes Ofcourse. Nothing should be loose . It’s solid. No issues
What did you do for a shower door?
Did a curtain. Have follow up videos
Would it be possible to install this surround with the back wall straight (frame around the niche and secure it to the studs)? I was very close to purchasing this product until I noticed it encroached on the shower area. Thanks,
That’s the design. As seen. Don’t think can alter. Check my follow up video. The niche does not take away much at all.
We did the dry fit, and now we can't pop them out for installing with shims and nails. Any suggestions on popping them apart because the walls are not budging. This wasn't demonstrated in the video. Thanks
If it’s not jammed in should come up. If you pull side upwards. Should slide out. Just has to be loose side to side.
Were you able to get the walls out? One of mine is stuck too.
@@laniemarie882 yea. it was a little pain to pop back out. has to be loose. nothing pushing on it, that prevents you from pulling up and out.
@laniemarie it never popped out. We kept going with installation
Do you put caulk to the sides of the walls?
Yes. Every connection point
Hello, I just bought the Nextile surround. But I think I have to install new studs due to water damage. It seems like a big project to take on. But, it’s not rocket science. Want to be well informed before taking down the drywall. Do you have any suggestions? thank you for your videos. Stay safe and healthy.🙂
Just take the wall down, you'll be fine. I actually did a vide on removing the tub tiled walls etc. check it out, i think it will just add to your confidence to move forward. same with tub removal etc. then when you take down, you'll see if studs actually need replacing. if they do . not big deal. just have to be carefull not to damage the sheetrock wall on ther side if any.
Hey there installing this tomorrow. I see you don't have the tub spout copper line sticking out. Mine is soldered sticking out ready to go. Am I going to have issues getting the valve side on with that sticking out?
Yeah you will. Ran into that Issue when trying to remove wall. You have e to remove it and thread it on after the wall is on.
Alright will do! Thank you for the tip! And answering so quickly!
I try 😉
My Contractor recently purchased this shower stall for our guest cottage but the pannel under the niche does seem straight to me and it is kind of crooked at the bottom. I see the same thing in your finished video too. Is this expected?
Yes. It’s to save space on bottom under the shelf. Check out my follow up video. I go over measurements.
Do you feel like your tub space was reduced with that wall that kind off sticks out a little too much ?the wall where you installed your tile ?
not at all. or barely if that. i did follow up video so check that out. i showed all measurements to show exactly how much space there is , and what is lost. thanks
Does the Niche part poke out? I have been seeing negative comments about that and wondering if there is a fix before we install ours
It’s so minimal , does not affect anything to be honest. I did follow up video on that , showing measurements etc. check it out 👊
Great video thanks for posting. I have a question about how & what you did to ‘finish’ along the top of the tub wall??
Sheetrock over the lip. Painted sheet rock. And used bathtub silicone to seal the connection gap.
@@HowToWithLech
Thanks for the quick reply and reassuring my thoughts will work
I am thinking of using ‘J’ channels to keep the drywall dry where it touches the edges
Yeah. That’s a nice touch 👍
Thank you for answering, Ive been wondering how to deal with that issue
Is that center niche supposed to stick out some? I have had someone install mines and its sticking out some.
Yes. It’s normal. Check my follow up video about it.
Hi it looks beautiful may I ask were you got all the shower and faucet hardware!! The black is sleek
Hi, was actually hard to find all black hardware. Not many options out there.
Ordered online from HomeDepot:
Delta Trinsic 1-Handle Wall Mount Tub and Shower Trim Kit with H2Okinetic in Matte Black (Valve and Shower Head Not Included)
In2ition Two-in-One 4-Spray 3 in. Dual Wall Mount Fixed and Handheld H2Okinetic Shower Head in Matte Black
Westbrass 1-1/2 in. NPSM Tip Toe Tub Trim Set with 2-Hole Overflow Faceplate in Matte Black
And this was for the faucet: Delta Broadmoor 4 in. Centerset Single-Handle Pull-Down Sprayer Bathroom Faucet in Matte Black
Thanks 😊
Trying to install this now. Had to give up for the night, can’t seem to get the back wall opposite the valve in.
check all the tabs, to make sure they line up. all is leveled etc.
Is this kit thick and durable? I was considering this or a sterling wall system.
Yes. Very solid.
Nice! I couldn't pick them up by myself! lol
👍🙃
Hey nice video!
What product did you use to fix the tiles inside the niche?
Thanks. Use an advanced kitchen and bath sealant,
such as DAP® 3.0 or something similar. and than unsanded grout.
@@HowToWithLech Hello. Can you give me some more detail on how you installed the tiles? My contractor doesn't think the instructions given in the manual will work; he thinks the tiles won't stick to that smooth surface and that the sealant will sip through the tiles and make it difficult to clean up before applying the grout. I really like the look, but he's so hesitant to do it than it's making me doubt as well. Thank you so much for your help!
@@basquebombshell Hi. Honestly i got the recommended adhesive for the tiles (you can even ask someone in hope depot to recommend one) and just attached as instructed per directions. It works out fine. the adhesive its made for this. the surface is fine to attach to. after a day, i did the grout and all worked out just fine. Been months so far and no issues. best part is, its not a lot of tile, and can be redone if you dont like it. But the adhesive will hold the tiles just fine.
@@HowToWithLech Thank you so much! I really appreciate it!
@@basquebombshell glad to help. just give it a go. this was first time for me too :)
This is one of the more well-explained videos I've seen. Thank you for putting this together. Does Nextile allow for custom shower sizes? Or only in fixed sizes? Thanks.
👍. They seem to be fixed size. Would have to find the the size you need that will match tub width and space.
I bought the same set. Tub & surround. I’m doing my upstairs bathroom. How will this hold up long term?
i think it will hold up just fine. its solid. mine is over a year and all still perfect.
@@HowToWithLech thanks 👍🏾 did you put mortar under ur tub & red guard?
@@mahanalutali hi. no i have not. i had a pretty solid wood base. check out my other video on the bathtub replacement, hope that helps.
Great video Lech, one question you didn’t cover in the video, how many dogs can you fit in that wall?
Honestly not sure. Maybe 30, but GEICO has good insurance for napkins
Is your bottom part of the back panel solid in place? Mine is moving towards the bottom 😐
Should be solid. Are studs level and even? Maybe need some shims. Tub needs to be level too
Do your walls have to be perfectly plumb to use this in your opinion? Old house, not plumb walls are our reality. Thanks!
Hi, honestly i dont think so. and you use shims or strips where needed if sticking away too much. you're putting right over 2x4 so shodul be easier to deal with. but the bathtub has to be perfectly level. as you seen in my video, i messed up the first time. my house was built in the 50's so crooked all over. i found beer cans in my walls from teh 50s lol
We're having the hardest time snapping those things into place 😫
lift up, push in all the way, and then has to push down so it drops in. its a little tough yup.
Yea I jus installed mine, it is tough, especially if the rough opening isn't wide enuff
Hi, I saw in the reviews for this product that some people wrote that it protrudes inwards because of the shelf, so you end up losing bathing space. Did you find this to be true? I couldn't really tell if it was protruding forward in your video.
It’s true where the shelf is. But is so little. Check out my follow up video, I showed all the measurement . I have nonissue with that honestly.
Great video thanks!
Thank you
I'm just curious but you have no waterproofing at all?
correct. not behind the walls. goes right on the studs per the mfr.
@@HowToWithLech thank you
Question. They only make this in 30” according to the manufacturer. I really love this surround though. My new tub is going to be 32” would that look weird?
Yeah. Won’t work
Hi, how did you finish above the surround and keep it water tight?
I actually did a follow up video. Check it out. But basically. Sheet rock over the lip. Painted it. Then caulked the space.
could this be installed with drywall currently already installed or should i rip the drywall off and then do the install ?
Proper way is to remove drywall and install right over studs as in my video. One issue might be if you don’t , it will overlap tub edges too much.
Can you tell me what the area of the tub is inside? i want to do the shower surround that is similar however, i feel once shower door is on may be too narrow for comfort
I did a follow up video about the spacing. Check it out. Let me know if that helps. If need more info let me know.