I don't think you need 20A escs for that, I think you just need to pay more attention to your settings. For my beetle, I was able to max out the ESC at around 7-8A, and that was with 2 pounds resting on it, and pushing against a solid object. Clean up the inefficiencies and switch to BLheli and you should be fine with something less than 10A.
Yeah I did find it very surprising. I set these escs up awhile ago so there is a good chance they are just stock simonk with reversing enabled. I have a pair of 7A BLheli_32 ESCs so I might give them a shot next
@@TeamPanicRobotics You might be right. In a few weeks I'm releasing my BLheli32 video, and I show the settings I use, so it could maybe give you a jump start. It doesn't require MUCH tuning, but with a little bit of time, you can get them better than SimonK IMO.
Correct! I have the whole control system set up on a single stick, mostly because the point of this robot is for me to practice my stick control so (in theory) I can drive better when I move back over to my competitive bots
It is! But I like driving with a plane tx so that I can have weapon controls. The plan with this was to attempt to drive something crazy with the transmitter I normally use in combat. Having said all of that, I do have a pistol grip that I want to test out on this platform at some point in the future
I fight in a plastic only 450g category... my current bot is a ring spinner running a 2300kv 2206 brushless for the ring and 2 n20 500's (6v) on a 3s lipo… I am running mod 1 gears printed in pla+ and get 4 or 5 fights out of a drive gear and ring... and it's the nylon coated roller bearings (625 bearings with a 21x7mm nylon tire) that get loose in their track... the gear teeth are surprisingly durable.. though I printed my teeth at 10mm tall.. but they take impacts like a champ too... my current failure mode is that the tires aren't getting enough ground engagement... need to upsize them a couple mm... I definitely need to work on my driving :) I was using a half-discharged 300mv bat in the scrum... so I ran out of juice near the end... th-cam.com/video/BOMNNWWI7-w/w-d-xo.html
Haha yeah I've decided it probably not a good idea to keep testing in the old location (which was my kitchen floor) especially with robots that drive/spin really fast
I've been loving your battelbots videos! Also love the brushless motors! One tip is to actually not 3D print the threads for your motor gear because they are so small. Simply, slightly, undersize the hole from the outside of the motors threads and it will dig its own threads into the plastic.
One thing that seemed to gloss over were the brushless esc's going to the wheel motors. For one, it looked like motor braking was disabled, and one of the most irritating things is the 0-250 rpm band of the motor for most esc protocols wherein the startup sequence is NOT tailored for low speed resolution. You might have better luck with something ready-made from a micro rock crawler brand like furitek, or flashing your 32-bit escs with firmware such as AM32 in the "rock crawler" section, or ESCape32 th-cam.com/video/T9qEqIUB_II/w-d-xo.html
Even when geared down, that thing looked crazy as! 🤪 Seeing as you're experimental with 3D printing gears at the moment, have you considered possibly 3D printing antweight sized pneumatic components, like cylinders and servo-operated valves and such? Maybe you can draw inspiration from the Lego pneumatic cylinders and make them with bigger pistons. If you can, maybe you could make a flipper bot out of them. I know weight could be an issue, but I thought it might be worth a try.
I've heard of people using lego tanks as pneumatics for an antweight, I havent heard if anyone 3d printing them. I might look into it, but it does sound rather dangerous, the print lines in a 3d printed part make them inherently weaker then an injection molded part. To be on the safe side i'd need to print much much thicker walls
Have you thought about printing a gear directly into the circumference of the wheel? This could be on the inside, like the outside of a planetary gearset. Then the motor directly drives that. The bigger you go with the wheels, the slower and more torque you get. Sounds like a win win?
I don't think you need 20A escs for that, I think you just need to pay more attention to your settings. For my beetle, I was able to max out the ESC at around 7-8A, and that was with 2 pounds resting on it, and pushing against a solid object. Clean up the inefficiencies and switch to BLheli and you should be fine with something less than 10A.
Yeah I did find it very surprising. I set these escs up awhile ago so there is a good chance they are just stock simonk with reversing enabled.
I have a pair of 7A BLheli_32 ESCs so I might give them a shot next
@@TeamPanicRobotics You might be right. In a few weeks I'm releasing my BLheli32 video, and I show the settings I use, so it could maybe give you a jump start. It doesn't require MUCH tuning, but with a little bit of time, you can get them better than SimonK IMO.
Sounds like splitting the controls to 2 sticks for this would be better?
He doesn’t usually do that?(I know nothing about transmitters)
@@hex1044 the normal for weaponed bots is controls on one stick and weapon on the other. Sounds like he retained the controls for this one
Correct! I have the whole control system set up on a single stick, mostly because the point of this robot is for me to practice my stick control so (in theory) I can drive better when I move back over to my competitive bots
I think it's a perfect case for a pistol grip controller as the front back is on one stick and turning on other. Great video as always :)
It is! But I like driving with a plane tx so that I can have weapon controls.
The plan with this was to attempt to drive something crazy with the transmitter I normally use in combat.
Having said all of that, I do have a pistol grip that I want to test out on this platform at some point in the future
yup
gota love 3d printing hu ^^
@Raymond Ibrahim that's haram...
I fight in a plastic only 450g category... my current bot is a ring spinner running a 2300kv 2206 brushless for the ring and 2 n20 500's (6v) on a 3s lipo… I am running mod 1 gears printed in pla+ and get 4 or 5 fights out of a drive gear and ring... and it's the nylon coated roller bearings (625 bearings with a 21x7mm nylon tire) that get loose in their track... the gear teeth are surprisingly durable.. though I printed my teeth at 10mm tall.. but they take impacts like a champ too... my current failure mode is that the tires aren't getting enough ground engagement... need to upsize them a couple mm...
I definitely need to work on my driving :) I was using a half-discharged 300mv bat in the scrum... so I ran out of juice near the end...
th-cam.com/video/BOMNNWWI7-w/w-d-xo.html
I am looking to design some motor mounts for my ant and beetle weight bots. What cad software do you use?
Where was the living room test????
Haha yeah I've decided it probably not a good idea to keep testing in the old location (which was my kitchen floor) especially with robots that drive/spin really fast
I've been loving your battelbots videos! Also love the brushless motors!
One tip is to actually not 3D print the threads for your motor gear because they are so small. Simply, slightly, undersize the hole from the outside of the motors threads and it will dig its own threads into the plastic.
I might give that a go. Someone else has suggested getting a reverse thread m4 tap, but using the motor as the tap sounds easier
Cool video Ben, so does this mean that you're also useing brushless on the melty?
Yes I am! I want to try to have brushless drive for every melty I build
One thing that seemed to gloss over were the brushless esc's going to the wheel motors. For one, it looked like motor braking was disabled, and one of the most irritating things is the 0-250 rpm band of the motor for most esc protocols wherein the startup sequence is NOT tailored for low speed resolution. You might have better luck with something ready-made from a micro rock crawler brand like furitek, or flashing your 32-bit escs with firmware such as AM32 in the "rock crawler" section, or ESCape32 th-cam.com/video/T9qEqIUB_II/w-d-xo.html
Even when geared down, that thing looked crazy as! 🤪
Seeing as you're experimental with 3D printing gears at the moment, have you considered possibly 3D printing antweight sized pneumatic components, like cylinders and servo-operated valves and such? Maybe you can draw inspiration from the Lego pneumatic cylinders and make them with bigger pistons.
If you can, maybe you could make a flipper bot out of them. I know weight could be an issue, but I thought it might be worth a try.
I've heard of people using lego tanks as pneumatics for an antweight, I havent heard if anyone 3d printing them.
I might look into it, but it does sound rather dangerous, the print lines in a 3d printed part make them inherently weaker then an injection molded part. To be on the safe side i'd need to print much much thicker walls
Have you thought about printing a gear directly into the circumference of the wheel? This could be on the inside, like the outside of a planetary gearset. Then the motor directly drives that. The bigger you go with the wheels, the slower and more torque you get. Sounds like a win win?
You should make a thwack / hammer bot with brushless drive
I should! I haven't made a thwack bot in ages
Looks like a gyro to help stabilize it could be useful.