I'm going with the Mueller for my Sportster. If that doesnt work I might add the Moose system. If I dont get sufficient remedy, I'll go with the Honda Rebel 1100 DCT.
This vid was JUST IN TIME. About to get a 124 done on my 107 and didn’t want to just do the springs. Screw all that heavy clutch nonsense. Was looking at that AIM slipper clutch pressure plate thing. This looks way less loot. Same objective… add clamp strength without clutch lever stiffness
Hey John, I hope that pully does what you are expecting it to do and makes your ride more enjoyable. Do yourself a favor and watch Ryan Urlacher's video on that install. He has a really good tip on properly removing and replacing that snap ring. It's not as easy as it looks, there is actually a trick to getting it reseated and it makes the install a breeze.
Yeah John. Put the Mueller power clutch cam on my bike last year. They really work as advertised. Should have installed one years ago. Before that I've been caught in heavy traffic on more than a few times, and on a couple of occasions I had to put the bike in neutral and coast to the side of the road do to bad hand clamps. That unit costs almost $300 bucks up here in Canada though, but well worth it. Happy new year.
Excellent video John on a cold winter day.. I actually have that exact setup on my 128 and definitely much easier clutch pull than before.. well worth it.. I have that with the Flo levers.. you just have to some clutch fine tuning with that part and adjustable levers so the clutch engages properly
Great video, John. I had to stop riding a few years ago because clutch lever pull caused too much pain in my arthritic wrist. Luckily I discovered Honda's DCT bikes, and I'm back riding again. My buddy, with the same wrist issue I have, had a Rekluse clutch unit installed on his Low Rider S, that disengaged below about 1500 rpm. This allowed him to release the lever when stopped in first gear, but engaged when he added throttle. This unit probably isn't a high performance clutch like yours, but guys with stock clutches can look into this. Ride safe.👍🏾
Mueller/ Muller ...basically its a change in ball and ramp angle. I put one on my 21 road glide and it DOES make the clutch pull easier. After a few months I took it of. The reasons are, when I adjusted to clutch I wanted to make sure it did not drag at all, so in the adjustment I make sure I had some (little) slack in the cable, with lever all the way out. so the clutch would fully engage. This, in turn made me suspect the clutch was not fully Dis-engaging when pulling the clutch lever in. Before Muller, I could start the bike in first, with clutch in, and the bike would NOT jerk forward. With Muller, it always jerked forward. AND I dont believe you can adjust your clutch the "Harley" way with this Muller ball and ramp. Having said all the, I want to see how you (John) adjust your clutch, and what you think after riding it for a week in traffic where you have to use the clutch a lot. Good Luck
@@beeker3 Adjust it per the instructions that Mueller provides. Did you adjust the throw out rod in the clutch after loosening the cable all the way, screwing the allen head adjusting screw in to a light seat then back out 1/8 turn?
yes. There is a possibility that I was not doing the initial throw out rod adjustment perfectly. It was hard for me to determine when the rod was (just barley seated) and then back off. For me, it was tricking finding that sweet spot so I cheated. I put slack in the clutch cable, and then pulled clutch lever all the way in. I then adjusted the throw out rod, via allen wrench. I turned the adjuster in, while feeling the cluch lever move out. When the lever hit the half way mark, I stopped my adjustment and locked it down. @@amberbali8881
I'm thinking about buying the elite Moto tech levers. Got to upgrade that center console too man. I always find it hard to fill up since that door opens up backwards
I understand the pain holding the clutch in traffic. Have you looked into the AIM Light Force Clutch Slave? I have a 2017 RGU, with some engine work, and putting out 150hp. After swapping out the stock part for the AIM part it is so much easier to pull. Love your videos!!
I have the Mueller ez pull, IT IS easier to pull, BUT, my I have to pull my lever further now, pretty much about 90%, the lever is almost against my knuckles, just as the lever clears my knuckles the clutch begins to engage
Big John, looking forward to the next segment. I don’t have that Mueller (?) system but I have felt it on another’s ride and it’s definitely lighter. Watch that weather this weekend brother 🥶. Stay safe 🤜🏼
Cycle Fanatix, you should really consider Robert Becker Designs seat lox, lid lox and bag lox. Get a set that a key can work all three. That saddleman key is easily defeated and does not ease my mind I feel
I have run the Muller for years on my TC Street Glide and before that a original Whiter Bro's easy pull (same as a Muller). I am installing one on my 21 RGS this winter also as I have small hands and and pull with my finger tips. The Muller works well. One thing, I have mine machined to accept the Baker larger throw out bearing. The larger throw out bearing has more surface area and is stronger than the small oem bearing. Easy process just need to have the recessed circular circumference area for the throw out bearing enlarged a bit. Needs to be done on a lathe but is quick to do. The Muller has to be run much tighter than the oem. Interior clutch adjustment is screw in until resistance then back out 1/8 turn (as opposed to 1/2 to 3/4 oem). Cable is set at 1/16" free play at the ferrell on the clutch perch. This will increase when the bike gets hot. The Baker throw out bearing will handle the tight setting of the components better than the small oem bearing. It's worth it. The oem can and do fail at times. I've been there. When set correctly, the Muller is butter smooth. Proper adjustment is crucial to prevent drag or slip. Due to the geometry of the Muller arm being slightly longer for leverage, you decrease the throw out separation of the clutches in the clutch pack. It will work fine, just takes a couple try's sometimes to get it dialed in.
@@jaywinters2483 I got mine directly from Baker. First one I ordered on line second one (spare that I am now going to use on my M8 RGS) I got from them at their boot in Rapid City. You will have to call them and see if they sell it separately now. I just looked it up and see that it is offered as a kit from Get Lowered Cycles and other venders for $99. You don't need the kit, just the throw out bearing that consists of the two thrust washers, larger bearing and C clip. C clip is a standard oem Harley clip. I was able to purchase just the throw out bearing, hopefully they still sell them separately. I think mine were around $30. Bert is proud of his stuff. The description on Get Lowered Cycles will explain basically the same thing I did in my origional post. Again, realize you will have to have the inner Muller arm machined to accept the larger Baker bearing.
Hey John not to get off track here but what do you use on your saddle man seat? Man it looks great. I have one and have been looking for something to use on my seat to keep it looking great. Just noticed yours and wondered what product you’re using. Thanks buddy
John gotta ask a question, does anyone make a better KickStand for a Road Glide ST? The stock kickstand is beyond nerve wracking. Never over the past 10 years of riding have I experienced a less confidence inspiring means of parking my bike. I have owned 5 BMW’s (1 currently), Triumph, Yamaha, Suzuki and an Indian all have very precise and confidence inspiring when parking your bike. That lazy Harley rock back makes me shiver…. Any ideas on a better kickstand?
I really like these type of videos you do John… hands on…showing on how things are put together. Can’t wait for part 2!
Great video as always!
Thanks Kevin
I'm going with the Mueller for my Sportster. If that doesnt work I might add the Moose system. If I dont get sufficient remedy, I'll go with the Honda Rebel 1100 DCT.
Awesome buddy can’t wait to see it all done ride safe and enjoy
This vid was JUST IN TIME.
About to get a 124 done on my 107 and didn’t want to just do the springs. Screw all that heavy clutch nonsense.
Was looking at that AIM slipper clutch pressure plate thing. This looks way less loot. Same objective… add clamp strength without clutch lever stiffness
I've seen that the Rekluse Slave Cylinder helps with the clutch pull as well.
Have a serious R&R 131” in a 2009 FLTR… using a stock Harley hydraulic perch with a primo Rivera pro clutch with TPP weights… no issues.
Hey John, I hope that pully does what you are expecting it to do and makes your ride more enjoyable. Do yourself a favor and watch Ryan Urlacher's video on that install. He has a really good tip on properly removing and replacing that snap ring. It's not as easy as it looks, there is actually a trick to getting it reseated and it makes the install a breeze.
Are you going to do the plate and the finger lever. If you do, make a video on it im curious about doing both
Awesome videos love the updated info brother.
That’s gonna be an awesome mod. Bit more work than the lever but hey, no pain no gain
Yeah John. Put the Mueller power clutch cam on my bike last year. They really work as advertised. Should have installed one years ago. Before that I've been caught in heavy traffic on more than a few times, and on a couple of occasions I had to put the bike in neutral and coast to the side of the road do to bad hand clamps. That unit costs almost $300 bucks up here in Canada though, but well worth it. Happy new year.
Hey just wondering your son doing suspension he should look into the dk valve for front shocks
Excellent video John on a cold winter day.. I actually have that exact setup on my 128 and definitely much easier clutch pull than before.. well worth it.. I have that with the Flo levers.. you just have to some clutch fine tuning with that part and adjustable levers so the clutch engages properly
Great video, John. I had to stop riding a few years ago because clutch lever pull caused too much pain in my arthritic wrist. Luckily I discovered Honda's DCT bikes, and I'm back riding again. My buddy, with the same wrist issue I have, had a Rekluse clutch unit installed on his Low Rider S, that disengaged below about 1500 rpm. This allowed him to release the lever when stopped in first gear, but engaged when he added throttle. This unit probably isn't a high performance clutch like yours, but guys with stock clutches can look into this. Ride safe.👍🏾
Mueller/ Muller ...basically its a change in ball and ramp angle. I put one on my 21 road glide and it DOES make the clutch pull easier. After a few months I took it of. The reasons are, when I adjusted to clutch I wanted to make sure it did not drag at all, so in the adjustment I make sure I had some (little) slack in the cable, with lever all the way out. so the clutch would fully engage. This, in turn made me suspect the clutch was not fully Dis-engaging when pulling the clutch lever in. Before Muller, I could start the bike in first, with clutch in, and the bike would NOT jerk forward. With Muller, it always jerked forward. AND I dont believe you can adjust your clutch the "Harley" way with this Muller ball and ramp. Having said all the, I want to see how you (John) adjust your clutch, and what you think after riding it for a week in traffic where you have to use the clutch a lot. Good Luck
Thanks will do, I had no issues after adjusting the clutch
did you adjust according to "the book" or a different way? @@CYCLEFANATIX
@@beeker3 Adjust it per the instructions that Mueller provides. Did you adjust the throw out rod in the clutch after loosening the cable all the way, screwing the allen head adjusting screw in to a light seat then back out 1/8 turn?
yes. There is a possibility that I was not doing the initial throw out rod adjustment perfectly. It was hard for me to determine when the rod was (just barley seated) and then back off. For me, it was tricking finding that sweet spot so I cheated. I put slack in the clutch cable, and then pulled clutch lever all the way in. I then adjusted the throw out rod, via allen wrench. I turned the adjuster in, while feeling the cluch lever move out. When the lever hit the half way mark, I stopped my adjustment and locked it down. @@amberbali8881
I'm thinking about buying the elite Moto tech levers. Got to upgrade that center console too man. I always find it hard to fill up since that door opens up backwards
I run an Oberon clutch lever and also a rekluse clutch slave my Harley feels like my dirt bike FN love it
I understand the pain holding the clutch in traffic. Have you looked into the AIM Light Force Clutch Slave? I have a 2017 RGU, with some engine work, and putting out 150hp. After swapping out the stock part for the AIM part it is so much easier to pull.
Love your videos!!
I have the Mueller ez pull, IT IS easier to pull, BUT, my I have to pull my lever further now, pretty much about 90%, the lever is almost against my knuckles, just as the lever clears my knuckles the clutch begins to engage
Big John, looking forward to the next segment. I don’t have that Mueller (?) system but I have felt it on another’s ride and it’s definitely lighter. Watch that weather this weekend brother 🥶. Stay safe 🤜🏼
Cycle Fanatix, you should really consider Robert Becker Designs seat lox, lid lox and bag lox. Get a set that a key can work all three. That saddleman key is easily defeated and does not ease my mind I feel
Got mine on order along with oberman levers
I have run the Muller for years on my TC Street Glide and before that a original Whiter Bro's easy pull (same as a Muller). I am installing one on my 21 RGS this winter also as I have small hands and and pull with my finger tips. The Muller works well. One thing, I have mine machined to accept the Baker larger throw out bearing. The larger throw out bearing has more surface area and is stronger than the small oem bearing. Easy process just need to have the recessed circular circumference area for the throw out bearing enlarged a bit. Needs to be done on a lathe but is quick to do. The Muller has to be run much tighter than the oem. Interior clutch adjustment is screw in until resistance then back out 1/8 turn (as opposed to 1/2 to 3/4 oem). Cable is set at 1/16" free play at the ferrell on the clutch perch. This will increase when the bike gets hot. The Baker throw out bearing will handle the tight setting of the components better than the small oem bearing. It's worth it. The oem can and do fail at times. I've been there. When set correctly, the Muller is butter smooth. Proper adjustment is crucial to prevent drag or slip. Due to the geometry of the Muller arm being slightly longer for leverage, you decrease the throw out separation of the clutches in the clutch pack. It will work fine, just takes a couple try's sometimes to get it dialed in.
I just ordered the Mueller. What is the size of the Baker bearing you used & the source?
@@jaywinters2483 I got mine directly from Baker. First one I ordered on line second one (spare that I am now going to use on my M8 RGS) I got from them at their boot in Rapid City. You will have to call them and see if they sell it separately now. I just looked it up and see that it is offered as a kit from Get Lowered Cycles and other venders for $99. You don't need the kit, just the throw out bearing that consists of the two thrust washers, larger bearing and C clip. C clip is a standard oem Harley clip. I was able to purchase just the throw out bearing, hopefully they still sell them separately. I think mine were around $30. Bert is proud of his stuff. The description on Get Lowered Cycles will explain basically the same thing I did in my origional post. Again, realize you will have to have the inner Muller arm machined to accept the larger Baker bearing.
Hey John not to get off track here but what do you use on your saddle man seat? Man it looks great. I have one and have been looking for something to use on my seat to keep it looking great. Just noticed yours and wondered what product you’re using. Thanks buddy
I thought I didn’t like chrome anymore. I was wrong because that bike is too sweet.
Have Fun!!!
When are you upgrading your Air breather?
I’m not
Your Harley is so clean ! How do you keep it like that when riding in non dry weather ? Have a good day.😊😊
Do the clutch master cylinder it will lighten up a bit
Question is what is really better 3 ☝️springs or 6?
“You say two and I say one”
A great left hand workout. A gold medal grip.🎖🎖🎖
I hope that left hand is never around my throat.
😂😂😆😆😉😉
Be careful, ride safe.
Haha 😂
Great video sir
John gotta ask a question, does anyone make a better KickStand for a Road Glide ST? The stock kickstand is beyond nerve wracking. Never over the past 10 years of riding have I experienced a less confidence inspiring means of parking my bike. I have owned 5 BMW’s (1 currently), Triumph, Yamaha, Suzuki and an Indian all have very precise and confidence inspiring when parking your bike. That lazy Harley rock back makes me shiver…. Any ideas on a better kickstand?
Maybe a center stand would work better
Who manufacture this gear shifter? Looks nice, definitely different. 👍
John what happened to the dark horse Manowar compansator
Using evolution now
Cool upgrade
Hey John, have you heard about, A1 cycle, doing a cut back on transmission? Hearing it makes transmission stronger and easier.
I didn’t
@@CYCLEFANATIX check his page out. I started hearing about it few months ago.
That’s what I’m running the 1fngr lever’s butter 🧈 baby and they are adjustable
Do they have one for Softail’s 🤙🏽
That Duke exhaust does look like a banana.
Haha yes 👍
💯🔥🔥🔥🙏
If it worked, please let me know
Interesting