I bought the N-Vision for two main reasons; 1. The knowledge of the staff and 2. The 10 year warranty. I got the PVS-14 with white phosphorus. I have used nights vision for over 30 years and this PVS-14 is Awesome!
Just added a FLIR Breach thermal to my PVS14 wp setup. Running them on a bridge mount. I truly love the versatility of this setup. I swing one out of the way while using the other.
I bought the Nutnfancy PVS-14 through Optics Planet Trybe defense. What I initially got was atrocious large blem near the middle of the optic, not good especially since I dropped the extra cash for the "hand selected tube". Needless to say I complained and returned the tube, and what I got back I am very pleased with. No easily noticeable blems, good imaged tube. Just as an FYI if you go that route to save some money, make sure they give you what you pay for, it seems they may try to give you a tube that is poor quality, unless you complain. I am overall happy with the PVS-14 I have now, but be careful when buying from them.
I’ve bought a lot of stuff from Optics Planet and never had an issue. It definitely worries me buying something like Night Vision from a place like that though. I’m glad everything worked out for you, awesome that they swapped it out for you.
One of the most important things to avoid is a tube with high EBI. The tube can have super high FOM, but if the EBI is high, it will perform worse than a tube with much lower FOM, but with a very low EBI. EBI is a glow that appears in the eyepiece even when the objective is capped. This glow will be stronger than the image from a weak signal and will wash out all of the detail. If it is high enough (2 or more) it will give the view a milky appearance even when the signal is quite strong. For this reason, a tube with a lower EBI (all other things being similar) will produce a higher contrast view than a tube with higher EBI, and the lower the light level, the better the low EBI tube will do. NEVER buy a tube without knowing the EBI. Anything over 2 should be ruled out. Personally, I would not buy anything with an EBI over .6 or .7 but if you want to see in the darkest possible conditions, .1 or .2 should be the goal. I have a 2500 FOM tube with an EBI of .7 and a 2000 FOM tube with an EBI of .1, and when it is really dark, the 2000 FOM tube is still showing a detailed image while the 2500 FOM tube is just showing the green fuzz of EBI. Note that in the spec sheet shown in the video, the SN is only 30.3 but the EBI is an excellent .2. This tube is a tube that is very well suited for very dark environments (moonless night in rural conditions). If you are in suburban conditions, any tube will work, but under very dark skies, it is important to keep the EBI low, because it is the EBI that sets the threshold for when details can be seen in very low light conditions.
Great comment. I will be getting my L3 unfilmed pvs-14 next week. My tube is 35.2 SNR with an ebi of .7 and is aviation spot spec so it should be rather clean. I can’t wait to finally get behind it!
@@mortalmonke8844 Are these US made tubes? The SNR difference of 29.5 and 32.3 is rather modest but the EBI of 2.17 is well above a threshold I would not go over. In this particular case, I would go with the lower EBI tube.
Green was the default because the human eye can see moreover shades of green than any other color. It wasn't until much later that they realized the human brain does better in black and white.
They started out with red to save your natural nightvision when not using the tube. Then they went to green because the green color spectrum has the most color variances of all the colors .
Nice! This is all really good information! Thanks! Do you have any experience with thermal optics as far as what to look for? I've been comparing night vision and thermal and trying to figure out which would be best
If you’re trying to choose between night vision and thermal, it really depends on what you want to do with it. If you are only going to use it for hunting, I would personally go with a weapons mountable thermal. N-Vision and Trijicon make the best in my opinion, but they are pretty expensive. AGM and Pulsar make some great units at a more reasonable price point. I would rather have helmet mounted night vision than thermal if I had to choose one. Being able to see in the dark has many advantages. You can still hunt with it, just not as great an option. Being able to see in the dark is a super power lol.
I’m not sure if I understand the question right. You can use any analogue night vision during the day as long as you have day caps on. Most PVS-14s come with a day cap. Is that what you are asking?
@@AbelCompanyArms Yes i was curious if you can use a monocular during the day, without frying the IR tube. I asked somebody else on a review video and I was told that I can't use a IR monoocular or binoculars during the day, because the intense IR radiations from the sun will destroy the tube inside. Ps. I was asking in general not for this type only.
If you were gonna buy it from somebody from Craigslist at Walmart parking lot on Saturday. Make sure you test it with the cap on before buying it. And don't forget a bill-of- sale with the serial #
I’m not really familiar with the MNVD, I’ve never got my hands on one. As far as I can tell, it’s just a different housing and optics than the PVS-14. The MNVD has 51 degree field of view, where the 14 has 40 degrees. I can’t find any information on what tubes they use though. Never buy night vision if you can’t get a spec sheet on the tubes they are putting in your unit. I would call someone at TNVC, Foxhole Armament, or Licentia Arms if you’re interested in getting into night vision. They might be able to give you more info on the MNVD. I’m guessing they will advise against it though.
Don't title the video "What To Look For When Buying Night Vision" if you're not going to bother elaborating or explaining what we should be looking for when buying night vision. Aside from the spec sheet recommendation, you basically just plugged Foxhole and TNVC.
So those are 2 different things, you can’t compare them. You can have unfilmed and thin filmed that are auto gated. Auto gated means it has ABC or automatic brightness control. It will adjust the image when going from dark to bright situations. Or if there is a sudden flash of light like shooting. It helps protect the tube and what you are seeing. As for thin filmed vs unfilmed. Typically unfilmed is a higher quality tube, but not always. You can find thin filmed tubes with higher specs that out perform an unfilmed tube with lesser specs. That’s why it’s important to buy from a place that shows you spec sheets before buying. Unfilmed will almost always be more expensive.
I bought the N-Vision for two main reasons; 1. The knowledge of the staff and 2. The 10 year warranty. I got the PVS-14 with white phosphorus. I have used nights vision for over 30 years and this PVS-14 is Awesome!
Just added a FLIR Breach thermal to my PVS14 wp setup. Running them on a bridge mount. I truly love the versatility of this setup. I swing one out of the way while using the other.
I bought the Nutnfancy PVS-14 through Optics Planet Trybe defense. What I initially got was atrocious large blem near the middle of the optic, not good especially since I dropped the extra cash for the "hand selected tube". Needless to say I complained and returned the tube, and what I got back I am very pleased with. No easily noticeable blems, good imaged tube. Just as an FYI if you go that route to save some money, make sure they give you what you pay for, it seems they may try to give you a tube that is poor quality, unless you complain. I am overall happy with the PVS-14 I have now, but be careful when buying from them.
I’ve bought a lot of stuff from Optics Planet and never had an issue. It definitely worries me buying something like Night Vision from a place like that though. I’m glad everything worked out for you, awesome that they swapped it out for you.
Found this video very informative for a NV beginner like myself. Thanks for the video, great job
Thanks for the honesty. This isn't a cheap decision to take lightly
One of the most important things to avoid is a tube with high EBI. The tube can have super high FOM, but if the EBI is high, it will perform worse than a tube with much lower FOM, but with a very low EBI. EBI is a glow that appears in the eyepiece even when the objective is capped. This glow will be stronger than the image from a weak signal and will wash out all of the detail. If it is high enough (2 or more) it will give the view a milky appearance even when the signal is quite strong. For this reason, a tube with a lower EBI (all other things being similar) will produce a higher contrast view than a tube with higher EBI, and the lower the light level, the better the low EBI tube will do.
NEVER buy a tube without knowing the EBI. Anything over 2 should be ruled out. Personally, I would not buy anything with an EBI over .6 or .7 but if you want to see in the darkest possible conditions, .1 or .2 should be the goal. I have a 2500 FOM tube with an EBI of .7 and a 2000 FOM tube with an EBI of .1, and when it is really dark, the 2000 FOM tube is still showing a detailed image while the 2500 FOM tube is just showing the green fuzz of EBI.
Note that in the spec sheet shown in the video, the SN is only 30.3 but the EBI is an excellent .2. This tube is a tube that is very well suited for very dark environments (moonless night in rural conditions). If you are in suburban conditions, any tube will work, but under very dark skies, it is important to keep the EBI low, because it is the EBI that sets the threshold for when details can be seen in very low light conditions.
Great comment. I will be getting my L3 unfilmed pvs-14 next week. My tube is 35.2 SNR with an ebi of .7 and is aviation spot spec so it should be rather clean. I can’t wait to finally get behind it!
Two tubes (EBI .53 SNR 29.5) and (EBI 2.17 SNR 32.3) which of these would i want?
@@mortalmonke8844 Are these US made tubes? The SNR difference of 29.5 and 32.3 is rather modest but the EBI of 2.17 is well above a threshold I would not go over. In this particular case, I would go with the lower EBI tube.
@@shenmisheshou7002 both Elbit tubes
@@shenmisheshou7002 all the other specs are better on the lower EBI tube as well.
Green was the default because the human eye can see moreover shades of green than any other color. It wasn't until much later that they realized the human brain does better in black and white.
Congrats sir, you just solidified my decision to purchase.
They started out with red to save your natural nightvision when not using the tube. Then they went to green because the green color spectrum has the most color variances of all the colors .
fantastic video. you covered everything that mattered.
I’ll just wait and take one off of the Fudds
I have been looking at N-vision pvs14 but been on the fence tha.ks for the input
Man of Culture I see (Fender shirt)
Great video buddy……rgds from England
Nice! This is all really good information! Thanks!
Do you have any experience with thermal optics as far as what to look for? I've been comparing night vision and thermal and trying to figure out which would be best
If you’re trying to choose between night vision and thermal, it really depends on what you want to do with it. If you are only going to use it for hunting, I would personally go with a weapons mountable thermal. N-Vision and Trijicon make the best in my opinion, but they are pretty expensive. AGM and Pulsar make some great units at a more reasonable price point. I would rather have helmet mounted night vision than thermal if I had to choose one. Being able to see in the dark has many advantages. You can still hunt with it, just not as great an option. Being able to see in the dark is a super power lol.
FOM & Signal Noise
Never herd of FOM but I can use Google
Guess they don’t sell a pvs14 anymore
Is the battery expansion pack compatible with pvs14?
Can you use a night vision monocular during the day, without the IR function like a classic one ?
I’m not sure if I understand the question right. You can use any analogue night vision during the day as long as you have day caps on. Most PVS-14s come with a day cap. Is that what you are asking?
@@AbelCompanyArms Yes i was curious if you can use a monocular during the day, without frying the IR tube. I asked somebody else on a review video and I was told that I can't use a IR monoocular or binoculars during the day, because the intense IR radiations from the sun will destroy the tube inside. Ps. I was asking in general not for this type only.
If you were gonna buy it from somebody from Craigslist at Walmart parking lot on Saturday. Make sure you test it with the cap on before buying it.
And don't forget a bill-of- sale with the serial #
@@joshstephens6574 Thank's bro ! 👍
8:37 What’s the name of the Bayonet?mount? ?
What’s the difference between a ps14 and a MNVD
I’m not really familiar with the MNVD, I’ve never got my hands on one. As far as I can tell, it’s just a different housing and optics than the PVS-14. The MNVD has 51 degree field of view, where the 14 has 40 degrees. I can’t find any information on what tubes they use though. Never buy night vision if you can’t get a spec sheet on the tubes they are putting in your unit. I would call someone at TNVC, Foxhole Armament, or Licentia Arms if you’re interested in getting into night vision. They might be able to give you more info on the MNVD. I’m guessing they will advise against it though.
@@AbelCompanyArms roger that thank you for the reply
How do you know it’s a real one
Cannot connect to fha site
Don't title the video "What To Look For When Buying Night Vision" if you're not going to bother elaborating or explaining what we should be looking for when buying night vision. Aside from the spec sheet recommendation, you basically just plugged Foxhole and TNVC.
what is the difference between AUTO-GATED WHITE PHOSPHOR and UN-FILMED WHITE PHOSPHOR
So those are 2 different things, you can’t compare them. You can have unfilmed and thin filmed that are auto gated. Auto gated means it has ABC or automatic brightness control. It will adjust the image when going from dark to bright situations. Or if there is a sudden flash of light like shooting. It helps protect the tube and what you are seeing. As for thin filmed vs unfilmed. Typically unfilmed is a higher quality tube, but not always. You can find thin filmed tubes with higher specs that out perform an unfilmed tube with lesser specs. That’s why it’s important to buy from a place that shows you spec sheets before buying. Unfilmed will almost always be more expensive.
I have never had credit, yet have a legitimate need for a PVS-14.... Goddamn now I regret never having gotten a credit card back in the day