Sorry i feel the need to chime in with a few extra tips for your viewers. Pretty good video by the way. Gets a thumbs up by me. I do this for a living...here is my checklist and sorry you did do some of these. ▪︎№1..owners choice to fill or not fill fuel tank(s) my advice...if aluminum fuel tank-fill if plastic fuel tank-dont fill but havent heard a right or wrong yet ▪︎№2..STABILIZE FUEL with a marine type and no dont just use sea foam ▪︎№3..CHANGE OUTDRIVE GEAR LUBE or at minimum check it for water intrusion. If you unscrew bottom drain plug and find milky gear lube it can potentially freeze. But if not this can wait till spring. №4..WARM UP THE ENGINE on water w/ muffs №5..CHANGE MOTOR OIL AND OIL FILTER №6..CHANGE WATER SEPERATING FUEL FILTER if equipment and before screwing on the new filter, fill it up with this fixture. Take a one gallon jug mix 2 oz of 2 stroke oil + 1 oz of fuel stabilizer and fill rest up with unleaded fuel then screw it on. №7..DRAIN THE ENGINE BLOCK & MANIFOLDS of water. If your doing straight inboard, drain the strainers and muffler cans as well. Unscrew those blue mecruiser wing plugs (if older there will be brass plugs or brass petcocks) and POKE the hole out with a stiff metal hanger. Should have a minimum of 4 (2 on each side) but if you see more blue plugs, its good to unscrew them all and poke out the rust build up inside. №8..DO NOT SKIP STEP №7 and then screw all those plugs back in. If blue plastic kind check or replace O ring if needed №9..REMOVE SPARK ARRESTER (if NOT fuel injected) №10..REMOVE ENGINE THERMOSTAT №11..FLUSH MARINE ANTIFREEZE w/ muffs through outdrive. Use suitable marine engine stuff for it has corrosion inhabitants. We prefer to use -100°F (extra piece of mind doing a 100 boats) №12..EXTRA EXTRA REINSURANCE...get yourself a refractometer and learn how to operate. Test the potency of antifreeze exiting from exhaust to ensure it is not diluted with water. №13..FOG THE MOTOR if its NOT fuel injected by spraying specifically fogging oil into the carb as your flushing with antifreeze until it stalls, if you sprayed half the can in and it doesn't stall, manually shut the key off. №14..CLEAN SPARK ARRESTER either way and reinstall. №15..REINSTALL THERMOSTAT w/ new gasket №16..LOWER THE OUTDRIVE as low as possible Now winterize the other vulnerable systems that your boat is equipped with like...freshwater system, waste system, air conditioning system & inboard generator. Very last step REMOVE THE BATTERIES AND KEEP them charged and dont leave sitting on concrete. Best to throw a smart or trickle charger on them for winter but also check and fill cells with distilled water unless they're maintenance free. Actually very last step if stored outdoors is shrink wrap it or at least get a nice heavy duty tarp. Tie support post down the middle to keep the tarp or wrap peaked at a steep angle so its sheds off rain + snow so it doesnt collect on top. Now this list is for boat owners who actually care about their boat and is willing to put in the effort. I know there is always guys that will disagree and argue about every little thing and actually thats fine. But if you want to keep your boat in good working order with out double guessing, if your boat is going to survive the winter and also run the best it potentially can run, the following season then i highly recommend this check list above. Heres a couple more anal steps... ▪︎CLEAN EXTERIOR ENGINE AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT & COAT ENGINE W/ CORROSION PROTECTANT ▪︎CLEAN EXTERIOR OF OUTDRIVE AND COAT W/ CORROSION PROTECTANT
So when the engine is up To temp and the thermostat opens we let the -100 in and leave it in the motor correct? We don’t drain anything we just leave it in there.
You’re supposed to leave the antifreeze in. That’s what protects the engine And the antifreeze has all corrosion additives if not all your chambers inside your engine and all that stuff we gotta get all rusted up.
Flushing with antifreeze is to push water out of the areas that will not just drain by pulling plugs. Leaving antifreeze in or removing it and letting the system air dry over the winter is your preference. The pressure from trapped water that freezes and expands is what cracks manifolds and blocks, not the air temperature so it’s fine either way. I typically leave it in, but this year I’ll remove and let the system air out over the winter. Dealers choice.
Great video. I have a 2001 Maxum 2500SCR with the 5.7 and I'm tired of waiting on my mechanic and paying almost 1K a year to winterize and summerize. Here we are this year in mid July and he still hasn't gotten us ready to be on the water. I'm hoping my access is this easy to the plugs. It's sad when you provide all the materials and they don't do as you request, age old saying.. Want it done right? Do it yourself. Thanks again!!
Great video. I am trying to do it on my own this year. Do you run motor just with water until engine i hot and then you switch the antifreeze? How many minutes about before switching? Also do you drain motor after you flushed or its not neccessary?
A boat mechanic once told me that air won’t freeze. Have filled my motor with anti freeze and then drained it for years. Also if it does try to freeze. What little water is left has room to expand. Just my opinion.
I don't see the point in using antifreeze if you're just going to drain it out. I think leaving it in is best idea, otherwise just drain water and you're done.
Sorry i feel the need to chime in with a few extra tips for your viewers. Pretty good video by the way. Gets a thumbs up by me.
I do this for a living...here is my checklist and sorry you did do some of these.
▪︎№1..owners choice to fill or not fill fuel tank(s)
my advice...if aluminum fuel tank-fill
if plastic fuel tank-dont fill but havent heard a right or wrong yet
▪︎№2..STABILIZE FUEL with a marine type and no dont just use sea foam
▪︎№3..CHANGE OUTDRIVE GEAR LUBE or at minimum check it for water intrusion. If you unscrew bottom drain plug and find milky gear lube it can potentially freeze. But if not this can wait till spring.
№4..WARM UP THE ENGINE on water w/ muffs
№5..CHANGE MOTOR OIL AND OIL FILTER
№6..CHANGE WATER SEPERATING FUEL FILTER if equipment and before screwing on the new filter, fill it up with this fixture. Take a one gallon jug mix 2 oz of 2 stroke oil + 1 oz of fuel stabilizer and fill rest up with unleaded fuel then screw it on.
№7..DRAIN THE ENGINE BLOCK & MANIFOLDS of water. If your doing straight inboard, drain the strainers and muffler cans as well. Unscrew those blue mecruiser wing plugs (if older there will be brass plugs or brass petcocks) and POKE the hole out with a stiff metal hanger. Should have a minimum of 4 (2 on each side) but if you see more blue plugs, its good to unscrew them all and poke out the rust build up inside.
№8..DO NOT SKIP STEP №7 and then screw all those plugs back in. If blue plastic kind check or replace O ring if needed
№9..REMOVE SPARK ARRESTER (if NOT fuel injected)
№10..REMOVE ENGINE THERMOSTAT
№11..FLUSH MARINE ANTIFREEZE w/ muffs through outdrive. Use suitable marine engine stuff for it has corrosion inhabitants. We prefer to use -100°F (extra piece of mind doing a 100 boats)
№12..EXTRA EXTRA REINSURANCE...get yourself a refractometer and learn how to operate. Test the potency of antifreeze exiting from exhaust to ensure it is not diluted with water.
№13..FOG THE MOTOR if its NOT fuel injected by spraying specifically fogging oil into the carb as your flushing with antifreeze until it stalls, if you sprayed half the can in and it doesn't stall, manually shut the key off.
№14..CLEAN SPARK ARRESTER either way and reinstall.
№15..REINSTALL THERMOSTAT w/ new gasket
№16..LOWER THE OUTDRIVE as low as possible
Now winterize the other vulnerable systems that your boat is equipped with like...freshwater system, waste system, air conditioning system & inboard generator.
Very last step REMOVE THE BATTERIES AND KEEP them charged and dont leave sitting on concrete. Best to throw a smart or trickle charger on them for winter but also check and fill cells with distilled water unless they're maintenance free.
Actually very last step if stored outdoors is shrink wrap it or at least get a nice heavy duty tarp. Tie support post down the middle to keep the tarp or wrap peaked at a steep angle so its sheds off rain + snow so it doesnt collect on top.
Now this list is for boat owners who actually care about their boat and is willing to put in the effort. I know there is always guys that will disagree and argue about every little thing and actually thats fine. But if you want to keep your boat in good working order with out double guessing, if your boat is going to survive the winter and also run the best it potentially can run, the following season then i highly recommend this check list above.
Heres a couple more anal steps...
▪︎CLEAN EXTERIOR ENGINE AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT & COAT ENGINE W/ CORROSION PROTECTANT
▪︎CLEAN EXTERIOR OF OUTDRIVE AND COAT W/ CORROSION PROTECTANT
So when the engine is up
To temp and the thermostat opens we let the -100 in and leave it in the motor correct? We don’t drain anything we just leave it in there.
You’re supposed to leave the antifreeze in. That’s what protects the engine And the antifreeze has all corrosion additives if not all your chambers inside your engine and all that stuff we gotta get all rusted up.
He’s not taking out the antifreeze he is just making sure to push all the water from the engine,once it turns dark pink it should be good.
@@arthurperea274you obviously didn’t watch the whole video
@@arthurperea274he literally says at the beginning that he ends up draining all the antifreeze out after
Flushing with antifreeze is to push water out of the areas that will not just drain by pulling plugs. Leaving antifreeze in or removing it and letting the system air dry over the winter is your preference. The pressure from trapped water that freezes and expands is what cracks manifolds and blocks, not the air temperature so it’s fine either way. I typically leave it in, but this year I’ll remove and let the system air out over the winter. Dealers choice.
Very nice job. Your video was a great help. Cudos to your videographer as well😅
I had 19' sea ray and I used to do all of these things to winterize it every fall
You a Fool
Great job, bro Tremendous help.
Great video. I have a 2001 Maxum 2500SCR with the 5.7 and I'm tired of waiting on my mechanic and paying almost 1K a year to winterize and summerize. Here we are this year in mid July and he still hasn't gotten us ready to be on the water. I'm hoping my access is this easy to the plugs. It's sad when you provide all the materials and they don't do as you request, age old saying.. Want it done right? Do it yourself. Thanks again!!
Glad you enjoyed the video and hope it helps
@@garagetoyzllc2248so you don’t have to drain the block or anything first
Great video. I am trying to do it on my own this year. Do you run motor just with water until engine i hot and then you switch the antifreeze? How many minutes about before switching? Also do you drain motor after you flushed or its not neccessary?
TY. I take it you leave the plugs out all Winter? Reinstall in Spring?
careful putting the air cleaner nut back on the carb to run it. ive seen them loosen while its running and could be ingested into the engine.
I would hurt if just put whole bottle of 360 stabilizer in?
Why do you remove the antifreeze after ?
A boat mechanic once told me that air won’t freeze. Have filled my motor with anti freeze and then drained it for years. Also if it does try to freeze. What little water is left has room to expand. Just my opinion.
I don't see the point in using antifreeze if you're just going to drain it out. I think leaving it in is best idea, otherwise just drain water and you're done.
You have your water hose turned on too high that’s why it’s spilling out of the muffs. Too much pressure
love the moans bro