Thanks. I built one of those in...1989?, and it came with the original bright red tissue. I replaced the rubber with some contest Pirelli (it was still around then) and it flew fairly well, but SLOW due to the floats' drag, even with lube and a hell of a lot of winds in it. Two VERY thin coats of dope, and the original decals. Never flew it off water, not really possible for R.O.W. I built a foam core box for it (disassembled, floats off) and took it to my nephew on the plane from Boston to Chicago.....passengers and stews wanted to know what was in the box, and I took it out and showed it off. Much approval. Nephew was REASONABLY happy when he first saw it, but then we flew it and he was much more enthusiastic. One thing when building this kit...don't be afraid to sand the sheets a bit to make them thinner, weight is a problem. I sawed the stringers apart using an Xacto saw, and sanded the ends to make them 'longer' and more useful. This plane would look great blown up and made larger, maybe even a much larger RC balsa sheet version for water takeoffs and landings.
Hope that sparked an interest in your nephew to build and fly a few models. I suppose hypothetically it would be possible to fly a model like this inside an airliner in flight. Thanks for your comment!
That instruction booklet is included with ALL #500 series Guillow's kits. I have one from 1971, and it's falling apart. I need to get myself a NEW one. THANKS A TRILLION for showing the kit contents!!!!!!!!!
Thank you! Making the video is half the fun! I will have to wait for spring for flying the model, it would end up being a soggy mess right now (wet Canadian winter).
For this model I did some research and found some evidence for the orange paint scheme. It's different than what you see for this aircraft most of the time, so I thought it would stand out a bit. Be creative with your model building and just have fun, be unique with you paint schemes if you can. Thanks for watching!
Looks great but also very very heavy for a free-flight rubber model. All Guillows kits are way overbuilt, and to fly well, you'd need to replace most of the wood and use about 1/4 -1/6th of the materials. In other words, make the formers out of thinner, lighter balsa and throw away the thick. heavy longerons etc., and replace them with light 1/16" strips. The kits are made to be easy to build but built out of the box are always FAR too heavy to fly for any length of time. The model would be more fragile but lighter which means it'll fly slower and won't have as much momentum to damage itself in a crash.
I agree, particularly at this small size. Not just weight but any drag inducing scale protrusions can cause exaggeratedly negative flight characteristics. However these models are fun to build as is, right out of the box. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Love the build! I have the model but haven't built it yet. How did you get the stabilizers to work insink together working separately? I would normally cut out the center piece and make a connecting metal rod to both Stabilizers and fit glue the center peice in place behind the connecting rod. How come you didn't paint the bottom light blue/sky blue like it says on the paint scheme in the plans? I learned how to paint the cockpit watching your video.
Thanks for your interest! I'm using wire for the hinges on the control surfaces for flight trimming. I can bend the control surfaces and they just stay in that position, so to save a bit of weight the stabilizers are independent. I think historically the orange paint scheme is rare for this plane but I thought it would look interesting and different. Ya, masking the cockpit is time consuming but usually it works out alright.
It's just careful sanding. The planking doesn't have to be perfect when you glue it in. Get some small flat blocks of wood and glue some fine grain sandpaper to them. I also use some micro diamond files in some areas (available on amazon). Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
You did a nice build on that little model! Curious of the color scheme, seems like target drone, is that the color tissue that was in the kit? I have one or two of those in my kit collection.. Thank you for sharing! Steve Probelski
I found some paint schemes for this aircraft online, and orange is one of them. Not sure if it was a trainer or rescue plane, but I thought it would make an interesting and unusual alternative. I'm also not sure how historically accurate it is as most of the photos from that time are in black and white. I found the orange tissue at the dollar store (not the best quality, but it worked). Thanks for your interest!
Wondered why you made the control surfaces movable for a rubber powered model. More for the look? Don't really cone into use for rubber flying do they?
The control surfaces are hinged with wire so when they are adjusted they stay in that position. Just an easy way to adjust the trim before each flight, that's the idea anyway. Thanks for watching!
@@punkworkschannel thanks. Not seen that for a rubber powered plane but would certainly help getting it to fly left or right I think. Nice looking finish.
Hey thanks! I use regular non toxic wood glue. I apply some glue to both surfaces and then wipe it off, wait about 30 seconds and add just a bit more to one surface and put it together and hold or clamp for a couple of minutes. I don't use super glue as it's not good to be breathing the fumes from that stuff. Also with wood glue you have a couple of minutes to adjust positioning if you have to.
Thanks for your interest but I'm not sure, I think I would just do some experimentation with different types of sealants or dope and see what works best without adding too much weight.
The orange tissue I just got at the dollar store (not the best, but it worked). For the insignias I taped a piece of white tissue to a regular 8.5 X 11 sheet of paper and ran that through the printer, cut them out and pasted them to the model with a glue stick. It's important to use a glue stick because the glue is dry and will not distort the tissue before you get it on to the model. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
One last thing, I’m still relatively new to stick and tissue but not new to free flight. And I’m still working on getting a good tissue wrap. Got any tips? Like how you apply your tissue, because it looks superb.
@@thebalsaboy I just used some colour tissue I found at the dollar store. Not the best quality at all but it worked out OK. The best tip I have about how to keep it wrinkle free is to make sure that wood framing is as solid as possible. The tissue when shrunk will bend the wood with it and you'll never get the wrinkles out. Add extra reinforcement to the frame if you think it needs it. I use a glue stick around the edges of the framing and pasted the tissue to it. Then cut the tissue about 1/8" of overlap around the outside edges. In areas where the framing curves, make little cuts in the tissue. I use a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water that I apply with a small paint brush to the edges. I shrunk the tissue with steam from a kettle, just watch for warps. A spray fixative works well or something like Easy Dope, but I just left this model as is. I should make a video on this! Thanks, hope that helps!
Thanks, now perhaps I’ll finish this kit purchased a decade ago… great job.
Thanks! Ya, this was a fun build.
Thanks.
I built one of those in...1989?, and it came with the original bright red tissue. I replaced the rubber with some contest Pirelli (it was still around then) and it flew fairly well, but SLOW due to the floats' drag, even with lube and a hell of a lot of winds in it. Two VERY thin coats of dope, and the original decals. Never flew it off water, not really possible for R.O.W.
I built a foam core box for it (disassembled, floats off) and took it to my nephew on the plane from Boston to Chicago.....passengers and stews wanted to know what was in the box, and I took it out and showed it off. Much approval.
Nephew was REASONABLY happy when he first saw it, but then we flew it and he was much more enthusiastic.
One thing when building this kit...don't be afraid to sand the sheets a bit to make them thinner, weight is a problem. I sawed the stringers apart using an Xacto saw, and sanded the ends to make them 'longer' and more useful.
This plane would look great blown up and made larger, maybe even a much larger RC balsa sheet version for water takeoffs and landings.
Hope that sparked an interest in your nephew to build and fly a few models. I suppose hypothetically it would be possible to fly a model like this inside an airliner in flight. Thanks for your comment!
That instruction booklet is included with ALL #500 series Guillow's kits. I have one from 1971, and it's falling apart. I need to get myself a NEW one. THANKS A TRILLION for showing the kit contents!!!!!!!!!
I don't think it's changed since '71! or before that, the kid looks like Beaver Cleaver!
@@punkworkschannel Jerry Mathers. THANKS!!!!!!!!!
Excellent build! It's great seeing videos of these types of balsa builds.
Thank you! This was a fun little build.
Lordy! Those T-pins bring back lots of fond memories: I was into Peanut Scale back in the mid-to-late 1970's. 🙂👍
I build over just regular plywood and these pins hold up pretty well. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. This is another great model on this channel. Precise work as always.
Thank you! had fun building this one.
This looks fantastic! Well done.
Thanks!
Very nice video.....well done all the way around.
Thanks NGN!
Very nicely done.
Thank you!
Great video, very professionally done. And the model looks great too! -FSM
Thanks FSM!
Your work is SUPERB!!!!!!!!
Hey Thanks!
@@punkworkschannel OH...YOU BET!!!!!!!
Brilliant! I do appreciate all the work that's gone into preparing a film like this. Can we see the flight performance? 🌟👍
Thank you! Making the video is half the fun! I will have to wait for spring for flying the model, it would end up being a soggy mess right now (wet Canadian winter).
I would love to see it fly!!!
I'll post a video when it does. Thanks!
Great video and beautiful finished plane. As a beginner, I was wonderine if don't you want the tissue to match the color of the real aircraft?
For this model I did some research and found some evidence for the orange paint scheme. It's different than what you see for this aircraft most of the time, so I thought it would stand out a bit. Be creative with your model building and just have fun, be unique with you paint schemes if you can. Thanks for watching!
Looks great but also very very heavy for a free-flight rubber model. All Guillows kits are way overbuilt, and to fly well, you'd need to replace most of the wood and use about 1/4 -1/6th of the materials. In other words, make the formers out of thinner, lighter balsa and throw away the thick. heavy longerons etc., and replace them with light 1/16" strips. The kits are made to be easy to build but built out of the box are always FAR too heavy to fly for any length of time. The model would be more fragile but lighter which means it'll fly slower and won't have as much momentum to damage itself in a crash.
I agree, particularly at this small size. Not just weight but any drag inducing scale protrusions can cause exaggeratedly negative flight characteristics. However these models are fun to build as is, right out of the box. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Beautiful build. How I’d you attach the flaps with the modifications you did? Seems very advantageous for trimming
I used the wire from garbage bag twist ties. This wire ie very light and holds it shape when it's bent. Thanks for watching and your comment!
Superb !!!
Thanks again!
Great video and awesome build. Please let us know how she flies.
Thanks! Will do.
Love the build! I have the model but haven't built it yet. How did you get the stabilizers to work insink together working separately? I would normally cut out the center piece and make a connecting metal rod to both Stabilizers and fit glue the center peice in place behind the connecting rod. How come you didn't paint the bottom light blue/sky blue like it says on the paint scheme in the plans? I learned how to paint the cockpit watching your video.
Thanks for your interest! I'm using wire for the hinges on the control surfaces for flight trimming. I can bend the control surfaces and they just stay in that position, so to save a bit of weight the stabilizers are independent. I think historically the orange paint scheme is rare for this plane but I thought it would look interesting and different. Ya, masking the cockpit is time consuming but usually it works out alright.
How do you plank like that? The wood is so clean between the stringers!
It's just careful sanding. The planking doesn't have to be perfect when you glue it in. Get some small flat blocks of wood and glue some fine grain sandpaper to them. I also use some micro diamond files in some areas (available on amazon). Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@punkworkschannel thanks
I have no laser edition, only pre cut, but the plane looks very nice. Still in my stash.
This was a fun build. Thanks!
You did a nice build on that little model! Curious of the color scheme, seems like target drone, is that the color tissue that was in the kit? I have one or two of those in my kit collection..
Thank you for sharing!
Steve Probelski
I found some paint schemes for this aircraft online, and orange is one of them. Not sure if it was a trainer or rescue plane, but I thought it would make an interesting and unusual alternative. I'm also not sure how historically accurate it is as most of the photos from that time are in black and white. I found the orange tissue at the dollar store (not the best quality, but it worked). Thanks for your interest!
Wondered why you made the control surfaces movable for a rubber powered model. More for the look? Don't really cone into use for rubber flying do they?
The control surfaces are hinged with wire so when they are adjusted they stay in that position. Just an easy way to adjust the trim before each flight, that's the idea anyway. Thanks for watching!
@@punkworkschannel thanks. Not seen that for a rubber powered plane but would certainly help getting it to fly left or right I think. Nice looking finish.
This is absolutely beautiful, ¿what glue did you used?
Hey thanks! I use regular non toxic wood glue. I apply some glue to both surfaces and then wipe it off, wait about 30 seconds and add just a bit more to one surface and put it together and hold or clamp for a couple of minutes. I don't use super glue as it's not good to be breathing the fumes from that stuff. Also with wood glue you have a couple of minutes to adjust positioning if you have to.
@@punkworkschannel thanks, with wood glue you mean like balsa cement?
Nope. Just Carpenter's Glue like you get at Home Depot. LePage Pro is what I use.
what can be done to make the pontoon water proof? Thanks in advance. Bill
Thanks for your interest but I'm not sure, I think I would just do some experimentation with different types of sealants or dope and see what works best without adding too much weight.
How did you run the tissue through the priter?
The orange tissue I just got at the dollar store (not the best, but it worked). For the insignias I taped a piece of white tissue to a regular 8.5 X 11 sheet of paper and ran that through the printer, cut them out and pasted them to the model with a glue stick. It's important to use a glue stick because the glue is dry and will not distort the tissue before you get it on to the model. Hope that helps and thanks for watching.
this model was the first guillows kit i ever built!
Cool! This was a fun little model to put together.
Let me know if its a Kamakazi.
Will do!
Could you fly it without the floats or will the cg be off?
Good Question. Not sure, but I think it would be necessary to balance it for each configuration. Thanks for your interest!
10/10
Thanks/Thanks
What did it fly like ? SteveU.K.
Haven't yet had the chance to get her in the air. Thanks for watching!
what size is this
Wing span 16.5 inches. www.guillow.com/nakijimarufe.aspx
Fabulous model, I might buy one too. Does yours fly?
Thanks, haven't flown it yet, still lots of snow here.
One last thing, I’m still relatively new to stick and tissue but not new to free flight. And I’m still working on getting a good tissue wrap. Got any tips? Like how you apply your tissue, because it looks superb.
@@thebalsaboy I just used some colour tissue I found at the dollar store. Not the best quality at all but it worked out OK. The best tip I have about how to keep it wrinkle free is to make sure that wood framing is as solid as possible. The tissue when shrunk will bend the wood with it and you'll never get the wrinkles out. Add extra reinforcement to the frame if you think it needs it. I use a glue stick around the edges of the framing and pasted the tissue to it. Then cut the tissue about 1/8" of overlap around the outside edges. In areas where the framing curves, make little cuts in the tissue. I use a 50/50 mix of wood glue and water that I apply with a small paint brush to the edges. I shrunk the tissue with steam from a kettle, just watch for warps. A spray fixative works well or something like Easy Dope, but I just left this model as is. I should make a video on this! Thanks, hope that helps!