200 Grain 10mm Hard Cast Bear Load (Warning: NUCLEAR!!)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.พ. 2020
- ** THIS VIDEO, AND ALL OTHERS ON THIS CHANNEL ARE NOT INTENDED FOR KIDS, CHILDREN, JUVENILE HUMAN OFFSPRING, OR JUVENILE HUMAN SPAWN. SUSAN WOJCICKI DESERVES TO BE FIRED AND TH-cam NEEDS TO BE RESTRUCTURED **
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Hope I made Elmer Keith proud
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Ammo Test's video: • Video
Try measuring case heads in front of the groove before and after firing. It will show pressure in a documentable way. If you can measure hot factory with same brass you can establish a top end with confidence. Much better than reading primers like tea leaves. Good video. Very thorough.
Nicely done. Good info and appreciate the consistency of your hand loads. And yes, a strong dose of rerstructuring would be nice.
Very informative, concise and thoroughly thought out presentation. Thank you Sir
Glad you enjoyed and thank you for watching!
Awesome and educative video. Thx. Liked n subscribed.
Always happy to help
So glad for this vid cuz I'm looking to whip up a 200 grain hardcast for my g20! Thanks alot my man!
Better change the barrel
Good, informative video. I started hand loading a few years ago, and 10mm was the second cartridge I got into hand loading for. That was impressive velocities you got out of that combination. Reloading materials/supplies where I live (Alaska), has always been sporadic, even during good times. We can't order hazmat here, like powders, primers and complete cartridges, which makes us pretty depended on the stores for those items. So far I have used Blue Dot, AA5, AA7, AA9 and BE86. The BE-86 was messy/sticky, and got no where near the velocities the recipes claimed they should get, but my rounds shot well and consistent. The AA 9 and Blue Dot gave me the higher velocities for the heavy for caliber bullets. I like to use the AA5 and AA7 for the 150-165 gr defensive ammo I like to have loaded for my ccw. I carry a Glock 29 for my EDC, and I have a Glock 40 for the field. I haven't tried the Long Shot, 800X, or Power Pistol yet, but of course there is a supply crisis going on and no primers or powders have been available for around 2 years here, since the last election cycle started and then the riots, etc. Nice to see others showing details about this cartridge from a hand loading/reloading aspect.
Sounds like you got a good handle on things despite the lack of availability. AA 7 and 9 are great powders. I did some test loads with AA 9 and some 180gr gold dots and the velocities were about 50-70fps faster than thee Hornady book claimed they'd be, which I love because I'm a whore for powerful rounds haha
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I've played with blue dot a little, but find the muzzle flash to be disorienting in low/low-ish light for self defense. I use it now to specifically make rounds with a big flash just for shits and giggles
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Thanks for watching
Question what recipe did you have with BE-86 ?
Power pistol @ 8.4
200gr Hard Cast from Straight Shooter 22 BHN 40 Cal WFP HI-TEK bullet Red Cherry
CCI 300
Duplicates Underwood load
1.248” coal
G20 Gen 4
KKM barrel and 22# NDZ rod and spring
Nice video. Going to start loading for an M&P 4.6" 10mm.
Stay safe and thanks for watching
Good Video! I guess you Weighed your charges off Camera! I loaded 8.5 Gr longshot with Berry"s 180 Gr Plated In Glock Model 40, Worked Fine
Were these the 200 grain flat point acme coated bullets? What weapon was used? I’m looking for a bear load for my stock Glock 20
Good video! Your gun, your life... so true. I load Rowland pressure levels in standard 45ACP. Like you, I am not an expert but I have been reloading since the mid 1990's. I don't see anything in your brass that concerns me. I use rifle primers for my hottest 45 loads. It addresses the primer swipe (firing pin drag). I agree you need more recoil spring. My powder choice is Power Pistol for 1000 FPE - 185 grn loads in my a 5.25" 1911 (70 series Colt, Clark fully supported & compensated barrel, 24# with shock buffer). Longshot is a good powder & is similar to Power Pistol but seems to be slightly faster (at least in QL load modeling).
Good info. Hadn't thought of trying rifle primers but I may try it out this winter. Cabin fever leads to ammo testing haha
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Thanka for watching
Better have a 416R barrel if you're approaching 460 Rowland pressures ~40k psi, or you're definitely living on borrowed time.
@@davidsirmons - it’s a Clark fully supported and compensated barrel. Clark developed the .460 in the mid-late 1990’s. I don’t know the metallurgical number of the metal used. But I’m guessing it’s similar to what they use in the 460 barrel as there is no mention of using a different steel for the 460 barrels. But there is a certain level of risk associated with living life. You just mitigate what you can and accept what you can’t or you stop whatever the behavior is that concerns you. Clark actually states the heavy recoil spring and muzzle comp is what makes the system work by delaying the release of the locking lugs until chamber pressure drops. I basically attempted to recreate their development process based on documentation provided through various sources using probably the same barrel they used in testing/development. If I haven’t already owned the Clark barrel, I would just by a 460 kit and do what I’m doing.
13.4 is what I would top out with in AA#9 for the life of the guns.
On a side note its easily to surpass what you're searching for with a lighter projectile. Both the fps and FPE
A 155gr with 12.5gr of blue dot is a good load
When it comes to finding the sweet spot for 10mm, I like to stay around 700ft/lbs. Almost all modern day 10mm ammo is just slightly hotter than 40 s&w and the guns are made to match. The more energy you have, the faster the slide will move. Even with stuff like a heavy weight guide rod and recoil spring, youre only helping the problem so much
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My target ammo is a 200gr FMJ at 1220 fps, and while its 100% reliable, you can tell its not doing the gun any favors. I've broken 2 guide rods, one factory and one aftermarket, wore out the first heavy recoil spring, you can see where the slide and frame hit each other under heavy recoil, etc. I am a firm believer in running your guns as hard as they can handle for as long as possible, I just prefer doing it with the heavier pills
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And imo, blue dot is great for plinking, but Id never put it in a self defense load. Theres no guarantees youll get attacked in the day time, and the muzzle flash with that powder is wild. Very fun for the range though
@@HabeasJ what I've personally figured out with hand loadings
180gr hard cast
1350 fps
0.161 SD
728 FPE
200gr hard cast
1240 fps
0.179 SD
694 FPE
I'm only basing only on your 700 FPE factor
"nuclear" barely tickles most 10mm enthusiasts bare minimum fps to even be considered "full house" 10mm.
To each their own. I edc a 10mm, and have since I was issed a S&W 1076 as my primary duty weapon in 1999. Being sent to Trooper involved shootings involving the 10mm on a human being, (I attended 3 autopsies to recover projectiles for chain of custody purposes) seeing what happens on a human helped me determine my carry rounds. And its not "woodsman" "hunter" or the like. However, Underwood doesnt make "hyper" ammo that Im aware of. I carry "hyper" most hated ammo available today. Near 750 ft lbs and 2400 fps, but, as i mentioned earlier, I don't want to protect myself from bears, gelatin, and the FBI is a ridiculous, dishonest agency, of which the event of which they developed their "standards" is flawed to say the least, therefore irrelevant (to me. A random keyboard warrior in the comment section). Stay trained, practice often, stay stapped, the world is crumbling around us, have a good 2024.
Suggest a brass catcher that attaches to rail works great ….. Amazon
NDZ has 24 pound spring for G20
I'm getting 1231fps average from 200gr Hornady XTP 1.260" COL with 13grs AA no.9 with my Glock 20 OEM barrel. That's .2 grs under Hornady book max. No pressure signs. New Starline brass, CCI non magnum primer. I have 500 Acme 200gr FN I'm going to play with next seated out to 1.285" COL according to my "plunk" test. Thanks for your video!
Sorry that I'm just now seeing this but thanks for your comment. Ive heard good things about No.9 with 10mm and I like it for my 180gr hollow point going around 1250-1300 fps (not metered yet). I like longshot for the heavier stuff because of its higher burn rate. It gives me super consistent velocities and never a standard deviation in the double digits when I get the load right.
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The target ammo I run is a 200gr TMJ at 1225fps with 8.5g of longshot and it gives me an SD of about 4.3 fps last time I ran it. This bear load gave an SD of 5.1 fps, which is about .4% deviation per shot. I know power is more important than velocity deviation when it comes to maxed out dangerous game loads, but if you can get around the same power while maintaining consistent velocities and no pressure signs, might as well
@@HabeasJ Does longshot produce a big flash when shot at or near total darkness? I find AA#9 does not and I like that a lot for woods loads in the 10mm.
I've been using Longshot since 2015. For various calibers, from 5.7 X 28 to 10 mm. Be very careful with it. It's burn rate as given in the various burn rate charts. Is wrong when it's used for centerfire hand gun cartridges. It's primary use is for loading large volume shotgun shells. It's burn rate in the charts reflect this. When loading handgun cartridges, IMHO it's burn rate is similar to AA 5 or Unique.
For loading high velocity 200 grain 10 mm bullets. You would be much better off and safer using AA 9 rather than Longshot.
Where did you get your reloading equipment? I would love to start reloading soon.
I get all my stuff local at a hardware store called North 40. They're a chain here in the Northwest, but most big box outdoors retailers like Bass Pro would have everything you need. I started with the Hornady "Lock n Load" kit, which has almost everything you need to get going besides stuff like a case trimmer and the specific dies. Hornady press' are set up with a sorta quick attach system for the dies too, which is a lifesaver compared to the traditional design where you screw the dies directly into the press.
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And a note on progressive presses: I still haven't "upgraded" from the single stage press. This is after about 5 years and thousands, if not tens of thousands of handloaded rounds. While a progressive may be able to churn out rounds faster, with a single stage you get to do quality control for each step of the process. Every single round will have passed through your hands at least 5 times (deprime/ resize, chamfer/ debur, prime, powder, seat bullet) before it's finished, meaning you can catch that out of spec round long before it causes a malfunction in your gun. I also don't see a need for a progressive because if everything is set properly, I can average about 100 rounds an hour with my single stage, with 500 rounds being the most I've done in a day. It gets dangerously monotonous doing it for that long so I had to stop haha
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Hope that helps. Thanks for watching
FYI NDZ Performance does offer 24lb spring/guide rod sets for Glock 20/40 in case you are still in the market for one; I have been using their 22lb spring but will try out the 24lb spring soon.
Thanks for the heads up. I might pick one up
@@HabeasJ I have been using the 24lb spring/guide rod set these past few days pushing 200gr projectiles to 1270fps; it does indeed help a lot with the recoil.
I'm using 10gr of HS-6.
YMMV.
22 pound is perfect going on 10 years with heavy handloads works great. I really like the NDZ stainless rod and spring assembly.
Looking at primers and cases for pressure signs is not a reliable method. Velocity is your #1 indicator of pressure, cross-referenced with published data using the same cases/primers/powder/bullets in the reference loads from the same barrel length and action type.
The mechanical deformation of the primers during the cycling of the action isn’t an indicator of excess pressure. Striker drag on rising barrel (Browning action) lock-up designs is a normal condition, and is present on most handguns using that method of barrel-to-slide fit. There’s a good video on this from a forensics ballistician who analyzed hundreds of thousands of spent cases from all types of pistol actions.
Sectional density comes into play with dangerous game not just energy, 100ft lb less energy but a bit higher sectional density will penetrate deeper however dumping less energy on the way.
Sorry for this, but I feel like writing a bit...
I don't disagree necessarily, but theres no good scientific formula combining sectional density and energy to compare loads that I'm aware of. We can use sectional density to compare different calibers, but the only variable changing when comparing loads in the same caliber is the weight.
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Sure if velocity is the same, the more sectional density (in this case adding weight) the better it should penetrate, but the velocity for heavier bullets are usually slower. If that heavier bullet has 100ft/lbs less energy like you suggested, how much extra sectional density makes up for that lack of energy? Say you had a .357 with a 200gr going 1300fps making about 750ft/lbs. Is that less powerful than a 10mm with a 220gr going 1150fps making about 650ft/lbs because of sectional density? And if so, what value and formula can we use to compare their power? The 20 grains and a few hundredths of an inch is a much smaller difference than the velocity and energy numbers to me
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There needs to be a balance of velocity, weight, energy, and sectional density when discussing penetration using these intermediate calibers (in my non expert opinion). Yes those effect each other, but thats why they're all important factors to consider
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I know the "total knockout scale" is what some big bore shooters use for comparison, but I'm sceptical of is scientific validity. Im not smart enough to prove, nor disprove that its a reliable means of comparison for penetration, so I have to use the measurements and calculations pre-approved by the big brain smart people lol
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Thanks for watching
@@HabeasJ When you compare bullets of two different calibers for their sectional density and they are the same, it means they have the same form factor. They are equivalent in their characteristics in different calibers for example, 160 grains bullet in 7 mm and 190 grains bullet in .30 caliber have the same form factor.
Sectional density is NOT limited to just more weight in the same caliber between bullets of different weights. It defines its ability to penetrate. the higher the sectional density, the more penetration at equal materials used for the construction of the bullet, otherwise if all it meant was a relative measure of weight, it wouldn't even be mentioned.
Sorry, this isn't meant to simply contradict you but to clarify one of the most important aspects of ballistics which you seem to dismiss as inconsequential. The "knockout values" only apply to solids, whether lead or copper, not to cup and core or soft expanding bullets. It's a good indicator but not a tell all.
Sectional density is calculated as a relationship between weight and diameter, it's a measurement of mass. It is standardized as the square of the diameter in INCHES (not metric) to the weight in POUNDS, not grains. It's an industrial standard that reflects a value in an inertial state as well as in motion. (contrary to a ballistic coefficient that is -0- in an intertial state and is only assigned a value in motion.
If you took a .30 caliber wooden dowel flat at both ends, a copper bullet of the same caliber and a lead bullet of the same caliber, ALL weighing 200 grains for example. They ALL share the same identical sectional density. It is a measurement of mass. Understandably a heavier bullet will be slower than a lighter bullet. FtLbs of energy are far from being the only factor defining efficacy. Introducing speed and FtLbs of energy as a defining factor is being off on a different tangent. These are the results of a slower or faster bullet. A higher sectional density is associated with a heavier for caliber bullet, most likely slower than a lighter bullet and possibly....yielding less energy but not defining its usefullness because its ability to penetrate (as in your bear loads) is primordial. A slow well constructed Hard Cast heavy bullet will penetrate end to end on heavy game IF it has a good sectional density, meaning in the higher numbers of SD for a particular caliber. It needn't go fast because of its efficient SD which is the key to penetration. An efficient bullet for a small soft skinned game animal is very different than an efficient bullet for a heavy hard skinned animal. There are far too many variables to discuss here but suffice it to say that Sectional Density of different bullets in the same caliber are FAR MORE than just "different weights".
You have a somewhat convoluted understanding of what sectional density represents. You would benefit from reading its explanation in a physics's book and not from a hunting magazine article. A few writers understanding it....most do not.
Man I buy the under wood stuff 200 grain 10mm hard cast hi tek. And trust it will work but I’d LOVE to get my hands on some primers and powder and a chrono to load my own up to a definitive velocity and not just trust what the box say. even tho I know Underwood is good ammo I don’t believe it will hit 1250 out of a stock Glock 20 as advertised .
Underwood
In short G20 I get around 1140 fps
In G40 around 1200 fps
So expect about 50/60 fps lost in G20 due to short barrel.
Still respectable!
8.6 of Longshot with 220
8.8 of Longshot with 200
The 220gr grain will have a slightly higher sectional density, and therefore should be a better penetrator providing it's not giving up too much velocity.
I couldn't find 220gr coated bullets anywhere. And I don't want to shoot bare lead because these have enough smoke as is
@@HabeasJ I hear you. I've been looking myself. I'm afraid I'll be relying on factory hardcast loads. Underwood has the 220gr coated bullets in a load they rate at 1200fps. Those are in stock at the moment.
@@HabeasJ www.snscasting.com/40-s-w-220-grain-flat-point-red-coated-500ct/
220 key Hole and suck cycling I this 200 and 180's are the Best at least in my Gun Thanks 4 your time.
sad to say the $ on those there bullets has gone up of course, just paid $70 for 50 count of 40 cal bullets, they're no longer $13 for 100 CT anymore either, but still a good deal n my book, thanx for sharing!
Just checked acme and while they are out of stock, the price for 100 .401 hard cast 200gr flat points is $18.50. I have seen wildly different pricing depending on retailer though
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Thanks for watching
Have you tried the 8.4 to 8.6 LS with CCI 350 with 200gr Hardcast ? Working up a Bear Defense load in Alaska G20/KKM Enjoy your Video!
8.5 grains was my go to before this test when bumped it up to 8.8 grains
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Thanks for watching
SwampFox reached slightly higher than 1300 fps with 200gr xtp from a Glock 20 with stock length barrel (Stormlake barrel).
Yeah lovely
22 pound spring NDZ is plenty
Been using 22 pound spring for 15 years
Underwood is the best factory load especially for Trail
Thanks for watching
" what we can learn from this" primers are not a good indicator of pressure and you need a brake and a heavy duty RSA and a FULLY SUPPORTED CHAMBER 6" barrel.
Just got some 200 gr ACME red powder coat Did you get any Leading?
Haven't had a problem. The coating should prevent almost all leading
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Thanks for watching
Went to Small Primer Pockets and Rem 7.5 Rifle primers no smear in 10mm Nuclear level loads.
Thanks for watching
which gun are you using? ...looking for what your barrel length is.
It's an XDM with a 4.5" barrel. It does have a 22lb recoil spring but that only marginally effects the velocity
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Thanks for watching
@@HabeasJ ok, & thanks for posting!
From watching other vids, your load looks like it is right about in the neighborhood of what Underwood 200 gr cast velocity is. And in gel, that penetrates like 56" and 1225 from 3.8" and 59" in gel with 1275 fps with 5" barrel. Both are ridiculous distances. No discernable difference in performance imo.
I've used 8.5 gr with the 200 gr Swift A-Frame and with my 4.0" barrel, was ~1150 fps. They regularly measure about 60 fps slower than the 200 gr XTP do...presumably due to having about .0700" longer bearing-surface. And very little difference in gel compared to the Federal Swift Aframe rounds that are 1050 fps and under (gel was 1025). Penetration always 18-21"and expansion always just like the picture on the box, regardless of the velocity diff. So I see no urgent benefit by pushing load to the high-end.
Your mention about the seating depth - gives me an idea of something else I might be able to alter in case any feeding issues pop up at some given charge. I used what compares to the factory rounds OAL ~1.2575.
Your 8.5 seems like one to stick with as long as it's reliable. Doing the 8.8 seems pointless (other than maybe in a practice gun) and 9.0 probably = foolish. For maybe 61" in gel rather than 56" and a chance to ruin the gun, possibly in a defense scenario?? nah.
I think I saw a comment where you said had some rods break? Also good info.
It has me thinking that the low-mid 600s is where I want to be...until I see some huge reason to get closer to 700, at least.
Just watched some other vid of loads over 800 and nearly 900 ft-lbs (180 & 155 xtp). nuts
What primers did you use?
Whatever ones I can get lol. 99% of the time it's cci or federal
I got 1300 fps with 9.5 grns. Of longshot but with a 180 grn. LCTC bullet buy lee . Came to 675 ft. lbs. No real pressure signs but I will not exceed that load out of a stock Glock model 20 .
You’re way off on your measurements. Adding “2. 100 thousands “ to 1.260=1.460 not 1.280 which would be adding 2 10 thousands .020 some might think I’m splitting hairs, but these are important measurements that need to be right and well understood.
I didn't say "2 hundred-thousands," I said "2 one-hundredths," as in 2 one-hundredths of an inch, or 0.02"
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Thanks for watching
@@HabeasJ you are still wrong! 0.020 is 20 thousands. I understand what your trying to say , but you are saying it wrong and if nobody points it out , you will continue to do so. You added 20 thousands to your OAL, not 2 one hundredth As your saying in your reply is written 0.00002. Please do a little research and get it right.
@@beardedwoodsman9692 it goes tenths, hundreths, thousands, ten-thousands, hundred-thousands, and so on. Im once again not adding the "thousands," and this time its written so I don't understand the confusion... thanks for watching nonetheless
Nice vid. I'm using g40 Kkm barrel stock springs LRprimers starline brass 200gr rnfp hi-tech coated with 10g imr-blue. No crony. Based on feel I'm getting about 1350ish fps.
120 gr solid copper at 1500 it will get the job done
Possibly would
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Thanks for watching
You can get around this power level from buffalo bore
The box numbers are not the actual results you will get. Not a single buffalo bore chronograph test I've seen comes close to published velocities. Underwood is the only ammo manufacturer I've found to post actual load data for stock guns
@@HabeasJ if you go to buffalo bores website they show what their loads do out of real world individual pistols. I don't look at the box
@@Wildwestwrangler they're still unverified numbers put out by a company to sell ammo, the same way basically no production car makes the advertised horsepower. Theres no documentation, no video evidence, chronograph evidence, etc. I could've made this video not including me shooting over a chronograph and just reading the number out of my notebook, but would anyone believe me on the velocity or consistency of velocity? Absolutely not, and I wouldn't expect them to. So why do you expect me (and others) to give buffalo bore more than the benefit of the doubt? And when I see every single chronograph tests of buffalo bore hit well below advertised numbers (including testing in the exact same gun or even ones with longer barrels), I have even less of a reason to believe those numbers
@@Wildwestwrangler "Ford says the new mustang has 700hp!"
"Every dyno test I've seen it's barely pushing 500hp. Still impressive, but thats why you can't trust the horsepower stats on the window sticker."
"Well it says it right on Ford's website, I don't trust the window stickers"...
10mm and 357 Sig hot load info
For those of you mad scientists who reload and want to make 10mm and 357 Sig great again…..
Fwiw I found on some forums (YMMV) 2 loads which, in THIS gun (10mm G40 Klone 6.61” LWD threaded (and LWD 40cal 3-vertical-port comp) compensated barrel + 22# RSA in a 6” longslide) “are supposed to” do 1400fps with Hornady 180gn XTPs. CCI LPP’s, Starline brass, heavy Lee FCD crimp, and coal is 1.260”.
ETS 15-rd magazines used.
Hodgdon powders used were:
9.7gns Longshot
And
17gns Lil Gun.
NOTE: these are over max published loads and flattened primers, but they ran in MY gun AS CONFIGURED. They ejected 6-10’ away. They were accurate enough at conversational distances. I’ve shot them and they are confy to shoot IN MY GUN AS CONFIGURED. The compensator makes a huge difference! I dont have a chronograph so I am estimating the velocities based on what forum shooters reported from their guns. Point being….to me it was worth it to try carefully building up these loads. Shot at approx 5,000’ elevation.
Likewise in 357 Sig I use the Speer GDHP with Hodgdon Longshot 9.5gn, federal small pistol primers, asst brass, the Speer GDHP 125gn JHP coal is 1.140” COAL, shot the load in 5.85” G35 compensated (LWD ultra jillion port comp) conversion barrel is 1643fps as per what other forum shooters got, as I have no chronograph these are estimates but were safe in my gun. Load also safe in G23 with a G32 357Sig threaded and compensated (LWD 40comp as above on the 10mm) barrel as were the above 10mm and 357 Sig longslide) 4-1/2” barrel, 22# Wolff RSA and unknown velocities.
YMMV!
Ft/Lbs of energy can be very misleading. A .22-250 and a .45-70 can have almost identical ft/lb of energy.....but which one would be best for bear??? Rhetorical question.
It comes down to bullet design and shape. I.e. a heavy as shit hard cast flat nose vs a super light spitzer soft point or FMJ. Theres a reason the title has "200 Grain" and "Hard Cast" in it and not "180 Grain Hollow point"...
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Feel free to stay tuned till Wednesday, when I'll be uploading a video talking about what to look for in a bear defense cartridge
@@HabeasJ Oh yes I am well aware of all that....I run into GRIZZLY bears every summer fishing. I carry a Ruger SBH 4.62" bbl with 340gr +P+ Buffalo Bore. But the point I was making was ft/lbs of energy should not be used to compare anything with bullet performance, velocity is used TWICE in the formula. The Taylor Knock Out formula will give you a better comparision.....velocity(fps) x weight of bullet(gr) x diameter of the bullet(tenth of ft.) ÷ 7000. Example would be 1200 fps x 300 gr x .43 ÷7000 = 22.11 TKO for a .44 mag compared with 1200 fps x 220 gr x .40 ÷ 7000 = 15.09 TKO for the 10mm Auto. If you want to see the comparision between a .22-250 and a .45-70 go to Buffalo Bores technical articles, you will be shocked. The ft/lbs are within a little bit of each other but the TKO's will show the true tale.
@@russellkastner400 with all do respect, I don't care about the TKO value, I'm worried about the practical numbers. I understand that a small fast bullet wouldnt work well compared to a heavy slower bullet, I'm not sure where you're getting this idea that I think otherwise. Thats literally point number one in my video lol (Coming out Monday now by the way). Nor am I saying that 10mm or these hand loads are the end all be all for bear defense. I just think it will do the job just fine and do so with a 16 round capacity, easier reloads, and faster followup shots. And like I say in that upcoming video, understand that shot placement counts a lot more than bullet selection. 9mm FMJ has been used successfully before for bear defense, so I'm sure these 10mm hard cast rounds generating twice the power will do alright.
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And by the way... I LIVE with grizzly bears in my area. Im not saying I know more about defense against them than you, but don't act like your yearly fishing trip trumps my day to day life
@@HabeasJ BTW!!!! They're not my ANNUAL fishing trip.....its 20 minutes from my f.....ing house. I either see fresh(withing an hour) sign or them in person EVERY time I go fishing. There have been griz waltzing into town for the last 6 years....and this is in the lower 48. I run into them at work n play. So with all due respect.....YOU MISSED MY ENTIRE POINT!!!! Has absolutely nothing to do with caliber or bullet weight, bear or mouse protection........it has to do with the misunderstood use of using FT/LBS of energy to compare ammunition!!!! I work as an engineer....ft/lbs of energy was NOT designed for ammunition!!!!
@@russellkastner400congrats engineer. Im in the lower 48 and am 20 minutes from grizzlies too, whoopty doo. Im not trying to turn this into a pissing match. If you couldn't tell from my prior comment, I understand exactly what you're saying but I think some of this is common sense, and doesn't need in depth explanation which would've been out of place in my video. I don't think I need to sit here and explain the concept that a heavy fat bullet is less likely to deflect and deform than a light skinny bullet when I'm making a video WITH NOTHING TO DO WITH LIGHT SKINNY BULLETS. Im making a video trying to push a 200gr hard cast 10mm bullet to 1255 fps, which would give me 700ft/lbs of energy. Do I really need to spoon feed basic facts like slow heavy bullets drop more than light fast bullets at distance but are less likely to deflect at close range? Or can I assume that the viewer understands at least basic ballistics information when they click on a video like this? Again, it wasn't a comparison between a heavy and light bullet with me saying "they'll do the same thing if they have the same energy," it was me developing a 200gr 10mm hard cast load. So you're arguing against a total strawman if you think I'm claiming bullet weight, size, and construction make no difference when it comes to shooting different things
7.3 longshot under 200 gr is max you are way over 35000 psi!
Thanks for watching
What is your backdrop?
Stacked railroad ties backed up with a crapload of dirt
JT Flint
"BackStop" ?
Great video. I just wonder, why your willing to take your chances loading up a 10mm to max cup. If your worried about a Big Bear, why not bring a firearm that has been proven to stop them without a giant question mark on the head stamp of your chosen ammunition. It's not a game when your life depends on it, or someone you love. If you want a hand gun for Bear protection why not carry something that will get it done with proven results? if you can't shoot a 454, 460 or 500 then bring a rifle.. I'm just saying, I wouldn't risk it. Shots in a hurry, bad situation ,or an "Oh S#it" moment could really count... "Bring enough gun.. "
Just a dumb question from an old F#cker who has been down the "Rabbit Hole your chasing"..
~Best of Luck to you.
Because 10mm is a proven round and I'm not pushing it beyond its limits, which I was trying to get across in the video. I'm also not worried, just like most people who carry aren't truly worried about the odds of needing to use their gun. Its just a precaution
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Thanks for watching
Here's a video I made on bear ammo where I talk about caliber for a few minutes starting around 5:30
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th-cam.com/video/jYEmZTEE5jQ/w-d-xo.html
Energy isn't that important. For self defense against dangerous game with a 10 mm , 200 grains at 1100 to 1200 fps will do the job at self defense ranges. Bullet weight, shape, design coupled with enough velocity are the keys your lightest load gives you all of that. A 200 hard cast flat nosed bullet going 1200 fps will produce the energy needed . Foot pounds of energy, simply isnt what you should focus on. Sorry brother , but you are incorrect . Also having a hardcast bullet of at least 20 bhn. Obviously a reliable firearm and at the top of the list is accuracy