Man that ancient lil ole four banger sounds good! The car seems happy and healthy enough, none of these cars ever ran "Good" in the modern sense, but a lot of old cars don't run "Good" in the modern sense anyway, smooth engines used to be a luxurious thing. I've learned more about Model A engines watching your videos than I ever knew, such a fascinating design, and it shows how far Ford has fallen in terms of modern engineering.
My dad sent me a pic of this car from Symco this year and we liked your custom intake. I thought I recognized the car from the pic he sent, and when you added that intake in the vid, it sealed the deal! Love it!
That 51 Chevy carb works great on it too, and the accelerator pump is actually totally shot in it. Has a bit of a stumble if I slam the throttle down but actually responds fairly decent for not having any pump shot. I have a new kit for the carb and some other parts for a future video after the race video. I'm excited to see how it responds with a squirt of fuel when going wide open...
Good luck with the races Ben! Man I just love those Model A’s, turned out pretty awesome, that engine cleaned up nice and love the intake & header you made for it, sounds killer! Thanks for the video!
Nice job Ben , its great to see somebody take pride in there work and go that extra mile for piece of mind , as for the quick job on the manifolds Awesome buddy she sounds sweet great job .😎😎🤘🤘🇹🇭🇹🇭
Keeping the valves in order would have been good for the clearances. They can run quite well. My fav., that we built was/is Model B with mild cam, Winfield alum. Head, & 1 Stromberg 97. Strong runner! Love , Dubs
They all worked out pretty good, clearance wise, but I did find the shortest of the 4 to go in cylinder 1 where I really lapped that seat down. It really could have used a proper valve job or insert seats but I didn't have to much time. However, I'm pretty happy with it's performance for just throwing it together at home like this, lol. This project got me so fired up because I didn't Have a care in the world, my car, not a customer's, and the idea was just To beat it together to make a show. I'm hooked, and the races went great, that's for the next video. Thanks for watchin'!
Gosh I love the sound of a banger running. Inspiring. Watching this little series is gonna make me open up the banger on my jalopy and make sure all is well before it gets some real running in!
I just watched some of your content, good stuff 👍. I actually am in the works and have plans for building all the stuff for rebabbiting of these A and B engines, going to be a winter project, but that's a serious plan in the works for me.
"As a serious race engine builder, I never leave anything on the table. Except a little rust, carbon, sludge, dirt and metal shavings." --Rotter, Serious Engine Builder
Saw that middle connecting rod move...i was wondering if there wouldnt still be some side to side play since theyre basically ovaled now.. hope you keep us up to date with how it sounds and how long it lasts
What I thought was interesting on those rods, which I never talked about, I will address it in the future, but all of them by feel had no side to side play. Once again by feel. But a considerable amount up and down. They plastigauged out all at a strong 2 thousands, I took them down to 1 1/2 thou with the paper. They felt great after that. Obviously I never measured anything... Another interesting thing is there were no shims in any of the rods, even though the were all redone with stamping marks on all the rods and caps.... I'm assuming with the condition the babbits were in that they didn't use shim packs when they bored the rods. That would be my guess.....
@@rottersgarage i hope they hold up! I saw you bump the one with your hand after you torqued em down and itl looked like it moved side to side. I love diy in the garage rebuilds so if it holds up thats awesome!
I like to see someone else filing/sanding down their rod caps...what grit are you using? I'm preparing to do a JB weld repair on a Model A engine that broke an NOS con rod and windowed the block... Ever use the stuff for a big repair?
I haven't personally, that old cast welds so good I usually preheat and tig weld with a high nickel rod. Actually I cracked the water pump on this off camera and had to run to the shop to weld it. I was super surprised how that casting accepted the nickel rod, worked perfect.
Also, I wouldn't have done that if there were shim packs in the rods, but it seems like they bored the babbit with no shims installed, so I took half a thousand off each cap to get them to 1 1/2 thousands clearance....
I had an old 51 Chevy pickup that someone dropped the head on the block. It had a scar on the top of the block. I used JB weld to fill the small scar. It worked, but eventually I would have to take the head off and redo it occasionally, as that really wasn't a permanent fix. Cheaper than having the block milled down. Yeah back then I didn't have a welder. Though welding it full would of worked too.
I hope sanding the rods worked out for you. I don’t see how it would have work cause the way you sanded the caps you egg shaped or made them not perfectly round.
Yes they would be slightly egged. I will talk more about that coming up. There are supposed to be shim packs between the rods and caps to make this adjustment but it seems they didn't install them when they bored the babbit in the rods. You can peel I believe half a thousand off at a time on those shims. Which actually technically is the same as me sanding the caps, it would still "egg" the bore. I know I didn't say measurements, they all plastigauged out at a strong 2 thou clearance, I took them to 1.5 thousands. So half a thousand off each rod cap. If they were to get re babbited, they would get poured, shim packs installed then rebored to a true bore.
Not really believe it or not. A 5 gallon pale of parts washer solvent is around 90 to 120 these days. A case of brake clean, 12 cans, is like 40 bucks. If it's for a customer you bill them per can, as for personal use, a case should clean everything conceivable off a whole project, plus no waste to get rid of from the parts washer... Seems like a good way to go...
Man that ancient lil ole four banger sounds good! The car seems happy and healthy enough, none of these cars ever ran "Good" in the modern sense, but a lot of old cars don't run "Good" in the modern sense anyway, smooth engines used to be a luxurious thing. I've learned more about Model A engines watching your videos than I ever knew, such a fascinating design, and it shows how far Ford has fallen in terms of modern engineering.
She's a go-er! Let's race!
My dad sent me a pic of this car from Symco this year and we liked your custom intake. I thought I recognized the car from the pic he sent, and when you added that intake in the vid, it sealed the deal! Love it!
That 51 Chevy carb works great on it too, and the accelerator pump is actually totally shot in it. Has a bit of a stumble if I slam the throttle down but actually responds fairly decent for not having any pump shot. I have a new kit for the carb and some other parts for a future video after the race video. I'm excited to see how it responds with a squirt of fuel when going wide open...
@@rottersgarageI was tempted to build my own intake for my Holley 94 but chickened out! Will be converting over to downdraft this fall.
Good luck with the races Ben! Man I just love those Model A’s, turned out pretty awesome, that engine cleaned up nice and love the intake & header you made for it, sounds killer! Thanks for the video!
Wow, what a love ford Model A!
Always an amazing job!
Cheers from Brazil!
...this is...insane!!!BRAVO!!...much respect🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻...i'm a big fan
Nice job Ben , its great to see somebody take pride in there work and go that extra mile for piece of mind , as for the quick job on the manifolds Awesome buddy she sounds sweet great job .😎😎🤘🤘🇹🇭🇹🇭
Crazy to watch what you can get done in a month. Great work!
This is one of my favorite channels for real. Thanks for sharing and keep up the great work!
That motor is now a gem for years to come, gotta love Old School.
Keeping the valves in order would have been good for the clearances. They can run quite well. My fav., that we built was/is Model B with mild cam, Winfield alum. Head, & 1 Stromberg 97. Strong runner! Love , Dubs
They all worked out pretty good, clearance wise, but I did find the shortest of the 4 to go in cylinder 1 where I really lapped that seat down. It really could have used a proper valve job or insert seats but I didn't have to much time. However, I'm pretty happy with it's performance for just throwing it together at home like this, lol. This project got me so fired up because I didn't Have a care in the world, my car, not a customer's, and the idea was just To beat it together to make a show. I'm hooked, and the races went great, that's for the next video. Thanks for watchin'!
Gosh I love the sound of a banger running. Inspiring. Watching this little series is gonna make me open up the banger on my jalopy and make sure all is well before it gets some real running in!
I just keep learning more and more about the bangers and it's pretty cool, can't wait to see the yardart again
I've really enjoyed this series! And this video, lots of good work in a short period of time. Can't wait to see the videos from the drags!
Man.., you are an absolute beast!
Looking and sounding good. Good luck in the race
I freaking love this project.
Good luck at the races, bro.
Eu adoro ós teus projetos são incríveis parabéns show 🇧🇷👈🏿
Love the build! Good luck in the race!
love it
High precision motor inspection 🙂
Always at the last minute!
I just watched some of your content, good stuff 👍. I actually am in the works and have plans for building all the stuff for rebabbiting of these A and B engines, going to be a winter project, but that's a serious plan in the works for me.
"As a serious race engine builder, I never leave anything on the table. Except a little rust, carbon, sludge, dirt and metal shavings." --Rotter, Serious Engine Builder
And I mean this in the most humorous way possible. Whole project is sofa king awesome! 😎
Just curious why you didn’t pull the motor for all this?
Seems like you’d save a lot of time in the long run.
Saw that middle connecting rod move...i was wondering if there wouldnt still be some side to side play since theyre basically ovaled now.. hope you keep us up to date with how it sounds and how long it lasts
What I thought was interesting on those rods, which I never talked about, I will address it in the future, but all of them by feel had no side to side play. Once again by feel. But a considerable amount up and down. They plastigauged out all at a strong 2 thousands, I took them down to 1 1/2 thou with the paper. They felt great after that. Obviously I never measured anything... Another interesting thing is there were no shims in any of the rods, even though the were all redone with stamping marks on all the rods and caps.... I'm assuming with the condition the babbits were in that they didn't use shim packs when they bored the rods. That would be my guess.....
@@rottersgarage i hope they hold up! I saw you bump the one with your hand after you torqued em down and itl looked like it moved side to side. I love diy in the garage rebuilds so if it holds up thats awesome!
I like to see someone else filing/sanding down their rod caps...what grit are you using? I'm preparing to do a JB weld repair on a Model A engine that broke an NOS con rod and windowed the block... Ever use the stuff for a big repair?
I haven't personally, that old cast welds so good I usually preheat and tig weld with a high nickel rod. Actually I cracked the water pump on this off camera and had to run to the shop to weld it. I was super surprised how that casting accepted the nickel rod, worked perfect.
Also, I wouldn't have done that if there were shim packs in the rods, but it seems like they bored the babbit with no shims installed, so I took half a thousand off each cap to get them to 1 1/2 thousands clearance....
I had an old 51 Chevy pickup that someone dropped the head on the block. It had a scar on the top of the block.
I used JB weld to fill the small scar. It worked, but eventually I would have to take the head off and redo it occasionally, as that really wasn't a permanent fix. Cheaper than having the block milled down. Yeah back then I didn't have a welder. Though welding it full would of worked too.
I hope sanding the rods worked out for you. I don’t see how it would have work cause the way you sanded the caps you egg shaped or made them not perfectly round.
Yes they would be slightly egged. I will talk more about that coming up. There are supposed to be shim packs between the rods and caps to make this adjustment but it seems they didn't install them when they bored the babbit in the rods. You can peel I believe half a thousand off at a time on those shims. Which actually technically is the same as me sanding the caps, it would still "egg" the bore. I know I didn't say measurements, they all plastigauged out at a strong 2 thou clearance, I took them to 1.5 thousands. So half a thousand off each rod cap. If they were to get re babbited, they would get poured, shim packs installed then rebored to a true bore.
🤓👍
Might have missed it .. what type of engine is that?
Whatever happened to the yard art??
I never see anybody using parts washers anymore. It seems like everybody is just using spray cans of brake clean. Doesn't that get expensive?
Not really believe it or not. A 5 gallon pale of parts washer solvent is around 90 to 120 these days. A case of brake clean, 12 cans, is like 40 bucks. If it's for a customer you bill them per can, as for personal use, a case should clean everything conceivable off a whole project, plus no waste to get rid of from the parts washer... Seems like a good way to go...
@@rottersgarage Thanks, I've been away from the industry for about 15 years now so I guess a lot has changed.