Nikon D80 sequence switch repair for ERR pt 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2018
- A common repair for the Nikon D80 is for the ERR message on the top lcd and no operation, caused by loose finger contacts on the sequence gear at the bottom of the mirror box. Part 1 shows the disassembly and repair of the contacts. Part 2 shows the reassembly of the camera.
In the first few minutes I was thinking 'yeah I can do this' then it just went deeper into outer space, into a black hole and then suddenly became the Alien. Great video. It has inspired me to get a new camera and leave the Nikon D80 alone.
I found a great use for the D80 as a card reader, so uploading to a PC does not occupy the use of my functioning camera
Il a oublié de dire qu'il faut enlever les petit collant sur deux boutons...sélecteur auto / manuel et pour réglé le foyer dans le viseur...il y a une visse derrière les collant !!
Thank you! My camera developed this exact problem after more than 11 years of flawless shooting (shutter count about 31k), and by following the procedure on the video I was able to fix it. I love the internet! What I did differently is I didn't desolder the wires going to the top shell, but instead let it hang loose on the side still connected, didn't pose a problem and saved me some soldering.
Thank you very much for this! I started buying Nikon 40 years ago believing the in brand and that they were the best. The nasty trickery/subterfuge that is kit lenses was a body blow to idea that their brand represents the best quality. A quality camera failing because of a plastic rivet is a death blow. Really disappointing Nikon.
Agreed! Nikon devolved in the late 90s, aiming for the amateur market
Im right there with you. When I was growing up a Nikon camera was like a Rolls Royce, something that would work for 40 years and then you might hand down to your grandchildren. Now a piece of garbage after 5 years.
Thanks for the reply
I hope you will continue to make more videos on repairs to other cameras. Thanks with some explanations also written if you can
Best regards
Thank you very much for this tutorial. I managed to fix my D80! Now it takes pictures with ease and saves them!
That's good to hear! And doing the work yourself adds to the enjoyment
Thank You very much!
Thank you 🙏🏻
After 2 days trying to align the gear, some missing screws I managed to get this camera working. Thanks for the video.
Good to hear. Persistence wins!
I've also been having issues aligning the gear, it seems like it is too hard to move and the motor is getting stuck. I think I'm missing a part but I'm not sure. There is a aluminum piece that fits on the spindle, underneath the gear itself. I think that there was a washer underneath that which I might have lost but I'm not sure. Did you notice a washer there? (I don't want to put it back together again if it will be stuck)
@@Frisbeeking6969 At 16:09 as the gear is removed from the post you'll see a silvery washer/bushing remaining on the post with it's flange pointing away from the gear. This part was never available from Nikon so if it's missing you'll have to find a used aperture control unit, or a non-working D80 at a low price.
@@Frisbeeking6969 Yes, it has a metal washer, the motor then enters with a light pressure, bear in mind that the mirror and curtain have to be in the correct position, and follow the indicators in the gear for the alignment. If you've lost a part, it's easier to buy a broken D80 as has been said.
@@954mbp @GH CCRtube It's still stuck, I keep trying to re-align it and it test with my 2 AA battery setup and re-align it. GH, I thought that I remembered a tiny, white plastic washer that went under the silvery washer/bushing that you are describing but I don't know for sure. Flavio, when you are talking about the indicators on the gear, do you mean the indent on the side that lines up with the small plastic roller or the little indent in the piece that protrudes off of the bottom of the gear and which that roller fits into? P.S. Maybe I should post a video posting what is/isn't happening
I just can't believe your video helped me repair my camera :))) Thank you
Your comment made my day! Enjoy!
@@ghccrtube5007 Unfortunately, I think I may have damaged my D80. I wasn't paying close attention to the instructions in the video when I was discharging the capacitor on the mounting plate, and as a result, I got a big spark and a loud bang.. Long story short I discharged the capacitor without any resistor. Despite this, I tried to repair the equipment and put it back together. However, it now won't turn on. All of the wires are properly connected, but I suspect the capacitor is the issue because when I insert a fully charged battery (reading 8V on a multimeter), the voltage immediately drops to 0.9V. Can this be fixed or is my D80 beyond repair?
@@Jonathan.R.Pereira I'm sorry to hear this. Most likely for a large battery drain, the flash circuit has a shorted component, depending on what the capacitor shorted to. If you can find another D80 cheap with mechanical issues, you can try swapping the flash circuit from the donor into your camera. Nikon DOES NOT supply parts for their cameras.
Thanks a lot for the video!!!
Thanks for this video. I wonder why the D80s weren't recalled? The exact same thing happened to mine and a couple of friend's cameras. It isn't impossible to repair yourself if you have patience and a few necessary tools. I drew up a 'screw map' to keep everything straight without finishing with spares.
jonmichaelm001 my camera has same prolbem. i can hear it taking pic buy camera doesnt auto focus. Will this fix the prolbem.
@@lawrencelimco Not the same problem.
Unfortunately, I think I may have damaged my D80. I wasn't paying close attention to the instructions in the video when I was discharging the capacitor on the mounting plate, and as a result, I got a big spark and a loud bang.. Long story short I discharged the capacitor without any resistor. Despite this, I tried to repair the equipment and put it back together. However, it now won't turn on. All of the wires are properly connected, but I suspect the capacitor is the issue because when I insert a fully charged battery (reading 8V on a multimeter), the voltage immediately drops to 0.9V. Can this be fixed or is my D80 beyond repair?
Thank you so much
First of all, a big THANK YOU! Now that i did this operation to my d80, and after I've put all back, it works. I have all controls back, aperture, ev, s-speed, etc. The camera respond to everything.
But now a have "black image"; every picture I take is black. The courtain goes up, mirror to. Can you help me? Thank you!
Sorry for the delay in responding...you've probably already solved the problem or gotten rid of the camera. You might check that the wide flex from the sensor is properly installed in it's connector at the bottom of the motherboard.
Congratulations nice video, I wanted to ask you about the resistance you used to discharge the electrolytic capacitor than it is?
Thanks
The power resistor is 500 ohm 5 watt - I've added an LED with current limiting resistor (limit current through the LED to about 2mA with 100K resistor) to see the voltage discharge. Takes about 2 seconds to drain 300volts. Thank you for watching!
Following the video I was able to disassemble and fix the broken part; but a small flat spring about 1/2 inch long with circles at both ends and in the middle came loose. It was not shown in the video, and I cannot locate where it goes. Can you help? Do you know how the camera will perform if it is not replaced?
I had the same spring fall out during my disassembly. It happens when the cover over the sequencer gear gets removed. Took a while to find where it goes, but it is placed with one end on the gear cover and the other on a black (moving) post that is below that. Very near the white plastic piece that looks sort of like a “?”. I’ve got a pic, but don’t see any way to post here. You will need to have the gear cover removed in order to mount the spring (to get over the small retaining hooks on the two posts that the spring mounts to). The spring will be slightly compressed when in place. Looks like its function is to push down on mechanism that slides back and forth about a quarter inch during a shutter cycle. Sorry, I don’t know what effect it might have to leave it out. Hope this helps!
Could you please tell me, what was the 5 watt resistor check you did, plus what type of error was displayed. Mine has just an Upper case E with a dash on each side. Thank you.
I'm not the poster, but it looked like he used the resistor to discharge the capacitor, as a safety measure.
The error indicated on the top LCD was "ERR" and no operation followed. I use a 500 ohm power resistor to discharge the 300v capacitor. I've added an LED with a limiting resistor across the resistor to indicate current flow. The E is normal with no card in the camera....it just indicates the camera is empty of memory.
I've followed the video and when I put the camera back together the gears seem to be stuck, the motor kicks in but the gears just move a tiny bit. I tore the camera apart a second and third time to re-adjust the aperture part before adding the motor back on again. I tried running three volts through it, two AA's run together, and it still seems stuck. I'm not sure if I'm missing a part, maybe a washer under the silver thing that is directly below the sequencer piece. I cannot remember if there were any other parts there and cannot find a schematic online.
I'm not sure where the problem...never had the gears lock. You might test the motor/gear box before mounting on the camera to test they're good forward and reverse. There's a couple of black rollers that ride on a cam on the gear with the finger contacts...they often fall out (16:05 above). If the batteries are fresh they should cock the shutter. The parts breakdown is not detailed and shows only assemblies, not individual gears/washers. I'd be glad to take care of it if you're stuck.
@@ghccrtube5007 thanks for the response, I'm going to fiddle with the gear some more and see if I can get it to work. I appreciate the offer, but I don't think it would be worth sinking any more money into this camera. I gotta say though, although it isn't working for me, the video is fantastic. Thank you for making it!
I am an aviation mechanic by trade and built large experimental commercial jet engines....... and I'd rather tear down and rebuild one of those than deal with this camera. KUDOS to you!!!!!........... or anyone else who delves into a machine like this.
Thanks very much for your comment - I'm sure your line of work is more strenuous and stressful, but I agree KUDOS to all who keep things working.
I have a D80 with a flashing err on power up even with no lens attached. there is an - e - in the count window. When I press the button I can hear the shutter open and close, but no picture is taken and the flashing err remains no matter what I do. Would this be the symptoms of the problem you are fixing here? From what I can tell it seems like the gear is for shutter position control and I would think the shutter would not operate at all if this were my problem?
If the camera displays ERR upon powering up, yes, it's most likely the sequence switch problem shown here. The E simply means you don't have a card in the camera.
Hi, Do you still remember the drill size before you screw the brush back in place? Thanks.
The screw is 1mm and the drill .036" or 0.9mm. Thanks for commenting!
@@ghccrtube5007 I'm using PCB drill 0.8mm and PH 1mmx3mm screw. Thanks for the info and your respond.
Another silent movie. Well at least this one is really silent. No horrible loud music ;-)
Good video. What size screw and drill did you use?
It was a 1mm screw from a donor shutter assy. using a 0.036" drill
THanks for the guide! Although I have no idea how you desoldered all those tiny terminals with your 6" wide tip :D
Old school talents :P
My D80 has the same problem and I was thinking about giving the repair a shot and I tried some screwdrivers at my local store, but none of them worked, so I was wondering what screwdriver you are using to open up the camera and also if you have any tips for opening the screws, because mine are stuck and I'm just destroying the heads of the screws when I try to open them.
The best I've found are here:
www.spt.info/sptstore.php/screwdrivers/niwa-screwdriver-handle-with-super-grip
for the grip and here for the blade:
www.spt.info/sptstore.php/JIS_crosspoint_camera_screwdriver_blades/screwdriver-blades
These grip the screw head better so you're less likely to strip them. You might try holding a soldering iron on the screw head for a few seconds to heat it before turning it. Good luck!
@@ghccrtube5007 Thanks for the quick answer, a friend of mine had some screwdriver laying arround that seem to work, I'm gonna give them a shot on the weekend, already thought about heating the screws up but first I'm going to try it with out, cause I'm afraid of melting the plastics around.
@@ghccrtube5007 I did the repair, I dissasembled everything like you show in the video, with the only differences that I didn't discharge the capacitor and only desoldered the black wire on the bottom, but I wasn't that successfull, because everytime I press the shutter button, the mirror lifts up three times in a row and it looks like the curtain is barley moving or even is stuck, I think its a problem with the gearbox, maybe I did put the gear backin the wrong way, also there is a spring on the side of the gearvox that jumped of, but I put it back in the way I saw in your video. Now I dissasebled it again and I'm going to try to find the "error". I thought maybe you also had any experience whit something like that.
@@anotherhirsch657 You'll have to disassemble to the gear again and check that the gold contact fingers on the gear are all even and high enough to make contact. It's what stops the motor at the correct position. There are 2 small rollers that easily fall out of the gearbox, that ride a cam to cock the shutter and mirror, be sure they're in place. Also when you mount the motor to the gearbox, apply 3 volts to check that it raises the mirror AND cocks the shutter before you mount the mirror box. Good luck!
@@ghccrtube5007 Thanks for the quick and sorry for the late answer, but I was really bussy last week(s) and had not much time to work on the camera, but I applied 3V to the motor and it seems to work, the mirror moves up and down, the curtains also move, but it seems like there never is a postion where you can see through, is that suposed to be that way? I looked it up in your video and it seems like its the same with your camera, but I'm not sure about that. I also bend up the contacts a little bit like you mentioned and I think that was my problem, they just made no contact with the pcb above.
strange ... when you take out the gear, at 16:25, it is still firmly held by 2 plastic "dots", and then suddenly at 17:38 one of the platic dots that held the spring is reduced to almost nothing and needs repair. wat happened in the team between ?
The plastic "rivet" on the right at 16:25 is detached and riding in the hole, stuck to the contact spring, but not connected to the gear. It fell off before placing the gear in the vise. Good find!
@@ghccrtube5007 got it, thanks ;-) Surgery scheduled next weekend ;-)
Ok I took it all apart now what. Who's going to put it back together?
:) You can do it easily if you took it apart...by following the videos. If you're serious, I can take care of it for you. Contact me at the following email for details: dcntamcn@aol.com
You just traveled 5 miles to get to your right shoulder! It’s called dirty or micro oxidized contacts.
Sorry you didn't watch the whole video. It isn't about corrosion on the switch, it's about a detached switch finger contact. Most friction connections in the Nikon are gold-plated anyway. Thanks for your comment anyway.
Estra cem áudio mudo
Je recherche un réparateur Nikon ou une adresse mail
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