With the baffles shaped and the notches cut out for the stands, I can layout the location for the drivers and get the holes and recesses cut. I'm flush mounting both drivers and using my trim router with a very simple circle guide. Here's a link to the video where I made that circle guide: th-cam.com/video/1aWh4h3uMzo/w-d-xo.html Included in this video is a pretty neat way to get the centre back after you've cut it out. I made the mistake of cutting the recess to small (the tweeter wouldn't fit) and I had to re-cut it after I cut the hole. I used dowels that are the same size as the router bit to put the plug back and it worked like a charm. This is part 4 in my series on designing making a pair of open baffle 2-way speakers to use as "surround" speakers in my listening room. I've created a playlist with all of the videos: th-cam.com/play/PLQl9KPrpiIH-5l4QhxUYXHGhr-covK8n6.html
I agree with your tests, but if one perfected every detail of a speaker, one gets great sound. Bigger speakers dont sound as good as small speakers. Your test with speaker panel vibrations is with mediocre speakers. Instrument tests dont prove a goos speaker. Transmission line speakers play considerably louder than other speakers, & dont have to be big. PCM transmission line bookshelfs are the world's best speakers, in these speakers, carpet on the walls at certain locations make a big difference, but one cant tell the difference in mediocre speakers. You are using mediocre speakers that cant tell the differnce. Small upgrades, one cant tell the difference, but with piles of upgrades one can tell the difference. Do you use the best first order crossovers, or use no crossovers. Your speaker drivers are in my Sonus Faber Concerto speakers with the paper woofer type I have. The later ones like mine use not paper woofers, but were almost as good. My Concertos are the world's best speakers. The Sonus after mine they changed the same size cabinet that wasnt nowhere as good as my speakers. The speakers use a special bracing, special wood dried slowly 2 years in a dry kiln that made pores in the wood to cut vibration to make these speakers especially clear.. Expensive Totem bookshelfs use the same drivers as mine, but dont sound close to mine. My speakers use special resin inside the cabinets like a Strativarious violin does. My speakers are made in Italy by the best craftmen. Harbeth speakers are made to vibrate on purpose, but Harbeth has a patent on their low tone woofer rubber material. A $20,000 dac, great interconnects, A Krell amp makes a difference. Wall reflections are not a good way to test a speaker cabinet, but it is a good idea. I am leaving you a link on great interconnects. And a link in $200 PSB speakers that are much better & less harsher because of the woofer material than your higher price speakers you bought. These speakers are better than $1,000 B & W's speakers. The speakers were stereophile speakers of the year for 2 years, over $100,000 speakers & are often on ebay cheap & sold 1 million pairs of these speakers that wer discontinued last year, but sold for 20 years. Canada furnishes Paul Barton Of PSB speakers, a $1 billion sound room for testing for free, The US government furnishes nothing. . Buy only PSB Alpha B1 speakers. Andrew Jones speakers are terrible against these PSB speakers. Here are great dirt cheap interconnects. Click links. th-cam.com/video/Q6Pl12DeGUw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/_P2umDQWA4g/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/EjXS7Byg-xE/w-d-xo.html www.morrowaudio.com/ If you want the best speaker in the world, get the $700 Magnepan's with this upgrade, but you must have an expensive amp like a Krell amp. This guy talks about Magnepans a lot.. Click next link. th-cam.com/video/cLdlZ5bJXIY/w-d-xo.html
I love how simple you make things. Cutting perfect circles for speaker cutouts is a daunting task but after watching your video it seems easy peasy. Thanks John for all your hard work you do and all the extra work to publish your work to youtube.
I go by the engineering drawings on scrap, then adjust as needed. The drawings don't always give you the proper numbers for "cut your circle here". So using lots of scrap really helps me. But the drawings seem right-on about 95% of the time.
John, I love your woodworking and you are one of my heros! It seems like you are designing the speakers on the fly e.g. speaker placement. Doesn't this have a gigantic effect on the sound quality and measured results of the speaker? Have you ever built from or tweaked a set design and tried to hit it right on? I'm just getting started and I took the build-from-plans route, but I'd love to hear what you have to say.
The centre to centre driver placement is crucial (closer is better), but in general placement is usually a aesthetic choice rather than a sound quality one. If diffraction is a concern, offsetting the tweeter can make an difference, but it's highly disputable whether diffraction is audible while playing music and therefore it's effect on sound quality is also in question.
Really nice video, no joke I already ordered the exact same tweeter (1x) about 4 months ago, now I have ordered a 2nd + i am getting 2x Scan Speak discovery woofers. Going to build/test baffles and asymmetrical arrangement to get best dipole peak/flat response. These will activity cross over to a pair at this stage I already have of 2x pieces of SB acoustics 12inch woofers on simple frames below :)
Very nice. How are you going to run the wires for the drivers? I wondered if you might split the boards to use the router to cut a channel for the wires and then glue them back together.
You know I never noticed until recently that some tweeters are "surface" mounted and some are "recessed". I think you were already committed to the tweeters, but had you thought of using recessed tweeters? I would assume that comes with even more engineering to consider (width of recess, it's taper and curvature and how that affects it's projection?).
The dowels are f@#$&*( GENIUS. I literally just messed up on the dome version of those tweeters last night. Somehow I didn’t catch that 4.1” does NOT mean a 4-1/16 recess would be big enough😂😂😂
With the baffles shaped and the notches cut out for the stands, I can layout the location for the drivers and get the holes and recesses cut. I'm flush mounting both drivers and using my trim router with a very simple circle guide.
Here's a link to the video where I made that circle guide: th-cam.com/video/1aWh4h3uMzo/w-d-xo.html
Included in this video is a pretty neat way to get the centre back after you've cut it out. I made the mistake of cutting the recess to small (the tweeter wouldn't fit) and I had to re-cut it after I cut the hole. I used dowels that are the same size as the router bit to put the plug back and it worked like a charm.
This is part 4 in my series on designing making a pair of open baffle 2-way speakers to use as "surround" speakers in my listening room.
I've created a playlist with all of the videos: th-cam.com/play/PLQl9KPrpiIH-5l4QhxUYXHGhr-covK8n6.html
I agree with your tests, but if one perfected every detail of a speaker, one gets great sound. Bigger speakers dont sound as good as small speakers. Your test with speaker panel vibrations is with mediocre speakers. Instrument tests dont prove a goos speaker. Transmission line speakers play considerably louder than other speakers, & dont have to be big. PCM transmission line bookshelfs are the world's best speakers, in these speakers, carpet on the walls at certain locations make a big difference, but one cant tell the difference in mediocre speakers. You are using mediocre speakers that cant tell the differnce. Small upgrades, one cant tell the difference, but with piles of upgrades one can tell the difference. Do you use the best first order crossovers, or use no crossovers. Your speaker drivers are in my Sonus Faber Concerto speakers with the paper woofer type I have. The later ones like mine use not paper woofers, but were almost as good. My Concertos are the world's best speakers. The Sonus after mine they changed the same size cabinet that wasnt nowhere as good as my speakers. The speakers use a special bracing, special wood dried slowly 2 years in a dry kiln that made pores in the wood to cut vibration to make these speakers especially clear.. Expensive Totem bookshelfs use the same drivers as mine, but dont sound close to mine. My speakers use special resin inside the cabinets like a Strativarious violin does. My speakers are made in Italy by the best craftmen. Harbeth speakers are made to vibrate on purpose, but Harbeth has a patent on their low tone woofer rubber material. A $20,000 dac, great interconnects, A Krell amp makes a difference. Wall reflections are not a good way to test a speaker cabinet, but it is a good idea. I am leaving you a link on great interconnects. And a link in $200 PSB speakers that are much better & less harsher because of the woofer material than your higher price speakers you bought. These speakers are better than $1,000 B & W's speakers. The speakers were stereophile speakers of the year for 2 years, over $100,000 speakers & are often on ebay cheap & sold 1 million pairs of these speakers that wer discontinued last year, but sold for 20 years. Canada furnishes Paul Barton Of PSB speakers, a $1 billion sound room for testing for free, The US government furnishes nothing. . Buy only PSB Alpha B1 speakers. Andrew Jones speakers are terrible against these PSB speakers. Here are great dirt cheap interconnects. Click links. th-cam.com/video/Q6Pl12DeGUw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/_P2umDQWA4g/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/EjXS7Byg-xE/w-d-xo.html www.morrowaudio.com/ If you want the best speaker in the world, get the $700 Magnepan's with this upgrade, but you must have an expensive amp like a Krell amp. This guy talks about Magnepans a lot.. Click next link. th-cam.com/video/cLdlZ5bJXIY/w-d-xo.html
I love how simple you make things. Cutting perfect circles for speaker cutouts is a daunting task but after watching your video it seems easy peasy. Thanks John for all your hard work you do and all the extra work to publish your work to youtube.
It's 1am in Australia. (Sydney)
Won't be going to bed for another 7 minutes...
Just 7 minutes? You've got to play it on 0.5x speed to get all their is to know out of this gem!
Sir, you are an absolute legend. Thank you so much for creating this beautiful content!!
The adjustable circle jig is the best. Thanks
Nice details! I use calipers to measure each driver. Messed up to many times lol.
I go by the engineering drawings on scrap, then adjust as needed. The drawings don't always give you the proper numbers for "cut your circle here". So using lots of scrap really helps me. But the drawings seem right-on about 95% of the time.
John, I love your woodworking and you are one of my heros! It seems like you are designing the speakers on the fly e.g. speaker placement. Doesn't this have a gigantic effect on the sound quality and measured results of the speaker? Have you ever built from or tweaked a set design and tried to hit it right on? I'm just getting started and I took the build-from-plans route, but I'd love to hear what you have to say.
The centre to centre driver placement is crucial (closer is better), but in general placement is usually a aesthetic choice rather than a sound quality one. If diffraction is a concern, offsetting the tweeter can make an difference, but it's highly disputable whether diffraction is audible while playing music and therefore it's effect on sound quality is also in question.
I second that!!
Really nice video, no joke I already ordered the exact same tweeter (1x) about 4 months ago, now I have ordered a 2nd + i am getting 2x Scan Speak discovery woofers. Going to build/test baffles and asymmetrical arrangement to get best dipole peak/flat response. These will activity cross over to a pair at this stage I already have of 2x pieces of SB acoustics 12inch woofers on simple frames below :)
What species of wood are you using? It looks really nice.
Awesome build!!! Where can i view the router tool you made for cutting circles?
Very nice. How are you going to run the wires for the drivers? I wondered if you might split the boards to use the router to cut a channel for the wires and then glue them back together.
Thanks. There will be details on that in the next video.
Good stuff here, this is a beautiful build!
I would like to see a vid on the effects on chamfering the back of the midwoofers hole. Its supposed to have an measureable effect in REW.
Hello. Where did you get the wood for the baffle? I am looking for stock that thick and 10"by 20". Thank you..
What frequency will yiu be crossing over to the bases 😄?
"But, it will also loosen up on the drill press and probably fall out." xD
You know I never noticed until recently that some tweeters are "surface" mounted and some are "recessed". I think you were already committed to the tweeters, but had you thought of using recessed tweeters? I would assume that comes with even more engineering to consider (width of recess, it's taper and curvature and how that affects it's projection?).
Saddest thing about this project is we'll never get to hear the results
The dowels are f@#$&*( GENIUS. I literally just messed up on the dome version of those tweeters last night. Somehow I didn’t catch that 4.1” does NOT mean a 4-1/16 recess would be big enough😂😂😂
That's a thick baffle board?
What bits did u use for this project
👌
Should add some wings of different width.
Looked a bit like a wooden roller bearing