Thank you. Finally someone with a fuller body type patterning stays. Thank you so much. I appreciate your effort. I am now inspired to buy new fabric to make a new pair of stays. Thank you.
I think you just saved my future sanity! Just today I purchased the fabric and supplies for makings my own stays for the first time. I had no idea what I was going to do for a pattern though.
I literally wasted two full rolls of wrapping paper trying to figure out the method in the og video. I knew my mistakes were dumb but couldn't wrap my head around it. This made it make sense. I could cry (maybe just laugh), it's so much simpler. Thank you for the thorough explanation!!
I'm not sure, but I think you may have missed a step in Maria's video. She re-measures the new curved lines using the waist/bust inches. This bumps those out further. She then draws a new front line. This might be the fit issue. I love your breakdown of where to place the pieces.
Oh, man. This is perfect, this is exactly what I need. I have a dramatic hourglass bodytype and I've been really toiling trying to make something supportive enough for my back pain. I can't say thank you enough.
This was super helpful! I'm brand new to historical costuming (like, I finally ordered fabric to start on my first project new). I also saw Maria's video and was so confused. I knew it was easier, but not how. You helped me understand her method and your additions also eased some worries I had about customizing it to my body type. Your hair is amazing by the way and your stays are super cute.
Thank you soooo much! I watched Mariahs video and wanted to try it but was unsure because I am plus size with big boobs tiny waist and I was intimidated by getting the proportions right. This is perfect! Please upload more videos I would love to see more of you!♥️
Yes Thank you! I have a belly that sticks out and I've been wondering how to make this work. Maria's pattern doesn't work as well for me because of this. I would love to see more videos!!
I have this too and I have noticed that late 18th c stays with curved fronts work much better then the straight ones since I loose my waist in those. Doesnt help if you want to make earlier but.. xD
I had to watch this a few times, but it's finally making sense to me now. I plan on making 2 sets of stays, so 1 I am doing from a pattern, and the second one I will be drafting this way. Thank you so much! 💓 I want one with just back lacing, and the second one with front lacing and a stomacher so I can have different ones to change out on it.
This video was so simple, thanks! I tried the video by Marie Pattie and at least for me it was a little hard to follow, so this was just what I needed.
I’ve been trying to pattern some stays using the arc method for years using the frankly incoherent instructions from Patterns of Fashion 5. I was at the release conference and got extra info from the author’s talk and still couldn’t pull it off. I’ve tried a couple of other methods and they’ve all had huge chunks of info missing. I just managed to pattern off your incredible ten minute video in a single afternoon. Maybe I’m jumping the gun here because I’ve only cardboard patterned these so far, but THIS IS PERFECT. They were 95% of the way there after draft one and if I’d mocked them up they’d honestly be good enough. Cannot wait to make these up! Thank you so much!
@@runfridr I finally had time to mock these up and they’re so close to perfect. I guessed a couple of measurements (bust height and back height) so predictably the sizing is wrong there, but the rest of it is spot on. I’m having such a great time making these thanks to you. :)
Hey there! How did you choose the angle of the third circumference line? The one just under the waist line. It’s angled and I’m just wondering how many degrees or how you chose the angle? Amazing video BTW ❤
It makes a triangle from the starting point so its the same length up to the start as dor the end. If youbare drawing by hand ypu can use a pen with a string of yarn on
@@runfridr Uh, can you try this explanation again? I had this same question, but your "Swenglish", as you call it, is making this explanation a little incomprehensible to me. So sorry, please and thank you.
I couldn't follow Mariah's pattern because she was vague about what measurements went where so I was hopeful for this one but i find it even more vague like how high up on the verticle line do you place the horizontal lines. I have done many similar patterns like the Keystone book and i can mostly follow their example patterns. Except for when I use my measurements then the lines that are supposed to meet or cross over each other don't.
Tack för en fin tutorial! Jag ritade upp mitt första stays-mönster (vet inte vad de kallas på svenska) med hjälp av den, fick ändra framstycket lite då jag ritade på fri hand så proportionerna blev lite wacko, men i övrigt så passade mockupen på första försöket. 🙌
I have been considering trying to make a pair of stays that either have fused tabs, or else combining the bottom half of a Victorian/modern corset pattern with the top half of a pair of stays, because I need the tabs to break at or below the lateral lumbar indentations, to provide support for the joint between my lowest lumbar vertebrae and my sacrum. I can no longer wear the 1780s stays I made a couple years ago due to worsening back problems. The pattern I already have fits me very well (after 3 mock-ups), so I think that I could use your method and also use my existing pattern pieces to guide me, and using your technique, lengthen the lower edge. I could try the fused tabs or making a hybrid support garment with the look of stays at the top, but I am concerned that the petticoats may be too heavy without the tabs to support them). Your tecnique just might be my answer! Any decent-quality modern corset in my size gives me the lower back support that I need, so I don't see any reason why I can't make stays that do the same thing! Do you think I need to make any additional modifications to your technique in order to get the lower back support that I need?
Ooh yes! You mean like making the bottom half smooth like a corset without tabs? Could be really cool :D I have not worked with stays/corsets for back problems so I cant give a good advise unfortunately but atleast make alot of toiles untill it feels right. Corsets that are too tight hurt the lower back. Maybe somebody have made a video about back support corsets? :) Good luck!
This looks brilliant! Can I ask one quick clarification? When you're drawing the 'ending line', it's on a slope compared to the original bust and waist lines (not the curved ones, the OG ones!). I'm guessing this slope is the bust-waist measurement down from curved waistline? And just drawn straight between those two points? Is this correct? Thank you, excited to try this!
Thank you! I hope I understand the question corectly. Then yes its the same space inbetween that one and the waist line and then straigh out to the left to the new front line :)
@@runfridr that's great, thank you! I used this to resize a pattern from Redthreaded to (hopefully!) Fit me, excited to see how it goes! Thank you so much!
Thank you for this video❤ I have a cuestion ...the drawing of the stays it's made by free hand or there is also a method to make them? I can only find new ways of making corsets like 1990 stiles but never stays of that era
Does anyone know a good place to look for a pattern one could apply to this? The 'Patterns of Fashion 5' book seems permanently unavailable and i'm not sure where else to look for actual historical designs. (I have no idea how wide to make each piece)
I rewatch the video now I am actually wanting to try and I have a little question. ! For the third horizontal line when you talk about enlarging the hips, this line is not perpendicular to the vertical one. Have you a specific angle for it or is it random ? It is so interesting. A friend lent me her PoF5 and now I get a bit obsessed with all of that 😁 and team pattern nerds ahaha
Im nnot sure I understand the question? Its so hard speaking about a pattern without a picture haha! Since we are making a cone shaped garment the lines curve towards the front. The front line is where your measurements end.
@@runfridr So sorry i had never seen you had answered (I don’t receive notification I don’t know why). So I meant that at 5:30 you place the third horizontal line but it is not perpendicular to the vertical one, and I am not sure of how you decided that angle ? Maybe as you said it is the same distance as between the chest line and the waist line on the vertical line it is the same on the other side? Also you talk avoir « 3 cm less than your waist » and I don’t understand what it means. Is it in width, in height or something ? I have done 3 mock ups and start to be a bit desperate. It went perfectly until I drafted the tabs x)
@@MorganeRainbird was wondering about the angle of that line as well! i think i can answer your other question though: with 3cm less than your waist, i’m pretty sure she means the circumference of your waist, halved (because you’re making the pattern for one half of your body), and then minus approx. 3cm because they don’t close all the way in the back. removing 3cm from half your waist and bust circumferences would give you a 6cm gap between the centre back edges of the stays, which is why she says ‘from your spine’ bc that’s where the gap will be
What i don't understand is: you start with your own busts and waist measurements - curved black line B and W. However, on the reworked/green line pattern the bust curve is a couple of cm bigger, and the waist is a lot bigger. Won't this affect the fit and make the stays too big?
Hi! No its doesnt change the width since you have gaps in between the pieces that you adjust. Bust and waist measurement is kept the same. The point is to make the hip area bigger :)
You still start with her pen-and-string curve method though, right? My waist measurement is larger than my bust, so I have no "horizon point" to even start drawing the curve.
You can try with some padding in the front under the bust and than try the method :) It also helps making the bust abit loose so it doesnt squeese them into much. Then focus on curving the side pieces and the back. The body tissue can move around alot so you can use the pieces to get the shape you want. So dont worry if the pattern looks more straight than cone like, the shaping will be done in between the pattern pieces. Then you get that nice straight front and some curve in the sides and back. And the waist is still where your body bends on the side, not necessarily where the body is smallest. So thats where the waist line will be. It can help to ask a friend to measure.
I’m not sure if it’s an issue of my body shape or my inability to math correctly, but I can’t seem to get either method to produce even the base of a pattern. I think part of it is that I can’t figure out where the straps and center-side points are supposed to sit on the drawing, and when I try to work it out based on measurements, nothing lines up right. Not sure what I’m doing wrong, but I guess I’ll have to try something else. Maybe I’m just too trunky (my hips are only 1.5 in. Wider than my waist, and the distance from waist-to-hip is barely more than half the distance from underarm-to-waist.)
Have you had a look at a original pattern to make srnse out out of the tabs and how all the pieces sit on the body? There is nothing wrong with your body! If you dont have big hips you can focus on the waist, make the pieces long and cut out the tabs. I have also released the Freja stays pattern on the historical fabric store for download if you want to use a pattern instead. 😊👍 Good luck!
Am I wrong or you missee a step from Mariah? When you draw the curves lines from the point at the bottom, you need to adjust the length of the new curved lines as they will be smaller than the horizontal lines you started with. So they won't fit your measurements. Plus, when drawing the darts, you're again removing some fabric, reducing it again. Whatever you remove, either you add it somewhere or you might be overreducing the waist I think
Thank you. Finally someone with a fuller body type patterning stays. Thank you so much. I appreciate your effort. I am now inspired to buy new fabric to make a new pair of stays. Thank you.
I ❤ Maria Pattie. I’m so glad others are finding her as well.
Maria's video blew my mind! Thanks for digging in and doing the math!
I think you just saved my future sanity! Just today I purchased the fabric and supplies for makings my own stays for the first time. I had no idea what I was going to do for a pattern though.
Your hair is amazing!
Thanks haha :D
I literally wasted two full rolls of wrapping paper trying to figure out the method in the og video. I knew my mistakes were dumb but couldn't wrap my head around it. This made it make sense. I could cry (maybe just laugh), it's so much simpler. Thank you for the thorough explanation!!
Haha oh no! Thank you so much! 😊
I always test my patterns in quarter size on gragh paper and then size up.
SAVED MY LIFE and cool detail for me(Cause this video was posted on my Birthday)
I'm not sure, but I think you may have missed a step in Maria's video. She re-measures the new curved lines using the waist/bust inches. This bumps those out further. She then draws a new front line. This might be the fit issue. I love your breakdown of where to place the pieces.
No i also measure the curved line, if thats what you mean? :)
@@runfridr You skipped that part in the video.
A few things:
You are gorgeous
Your videos are excellent
Please keep making content!!!
Oh, man. This is perfect, this is exactly what I need. I have a dramatic hourglass bodytype and I've been really toiling trying to make something supportive enough for my back pain.
I can't say thank you enough.
Thank you! Hope it helps :D we hourglass peeps need alot extra hip space 👍 if the hips are too small the back hurts
This was super helpful! I'm brand new to historical costuming (like, I finally ordered fabric to start on my first project new). I also saw Maria's video and was so confused. I knew it was easier, but not how. You helped me understand her method and your additions also eased some worries I had about customizing it to my body type. Your hair is amazing by the way and your stays are super cute.
Thank you! 😊
Women have wider hips than their waist, so this is very helpful! Thanks.
Thank you soooo much! I watched Mariahs video and wanted to try it but was unsure because I am plus size with big boobs tiny waist and I was intimidated by getting the proportions right. This is perfect! Please upload more videos I would love to see more of you!♥️
Great! Thank you! I hope this works for you! :D
Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! Would you make a construction with boning video?
Yes Thank you! I have a belly that sticks out and I've been wondering how to make this work. Maria's pattern doesn't work as well for me because of this. I would love to see more videos!!
I have this too and I have noticed that late 18th c stays with curved fronts work much better then the straight ones since I loose my waist in those. Doesnt help if you want to make earlier but.. xD
I had to watch this a few times, but it's finally making sense to me now. I plan on making 2 sets of stays, so 1 I am doing from a pattern, and the second one I will be drafting this way. Thank you so much! 💓 I want one with just back lacing, and the second one with front lacing and a stomacher so I can have different ones to change out on it.
Thas a good idea to see what works best for you! :) Hope it works out!
I want to see the back of those stays! 😍
You can see the back on instagram @runfridrcostumes :)
This video was so simple, thanks! I tried the video by Marie Pattie and at least for me it was a little hard to follow, so this was just what I needed.
I tried the Maria Pattie one but i had some issues, I am an hour glass shape, with big bust and hips, so I'm definitely gonna give this one a try
Hope this works out for you! 😊
This is GENIUS! Saves me quite the headache resizing stay patterns, which I plan to make a lot of this summer.
Thank you for sharing !
Hope it helps! :)
Thank you! Thank you, thank you! I can´t thank you enough !!!!!!!!! Tank you for your easy explanations!
Tack så mycket. Bra video!
Tacktack! :D
Brilliant! I can't wait to try it!
omg i love your hair!
Love it❤
Freue mich auf weitere Videos 🌸🌸🌸
Tolle Frisur 🌸🌸🌸💕
You look so beautiful, i love how you did your hair !
I’ve been trying to pattern some stays using the arc method for years using the frankly incoherent instructions from Patterns of Fashion 5. I was at the release conference and got extra info from the author’s talk and still couldn’t pull it off. I’ve tried a couple of other methods and they’ve all had huge chunks of info missing.
I just managed to pattern off your incredible ten minute video in a single afternoon. Maybe I’m jumping the gun here because I’ve only cardboard patterned these so far, but THIS IS PERFECT. They were 95% of the way there after draft one and if I’d mocked them up they’d honestly be good enough. Cannot wait to make these up! Thank you so much!
Thank you! This made me so happy to hear! 🌷
@@runfridr I finally had time to mock these up and they’re so close to perfect. I guessed a couple of measurements (bust height and back height) so predictably the sizing is wrong there, but the rest of it is spot on. I’m having such a great time making these thanks to you. :)
Thank you so much for this! I was struggling to figure out how to accommodate my big bust and hips. Btw, you are really pretty!!
Thanks! ^-^
Thank you so much I was about to start her technique and then I saw yours ❤️ I'm def more curvy so yay
Love it, very well done!! ❤️
Taack!
Thank you so much for this!
Good job!
I love this insight!!!
Bravo et merci pour ce "détail" qui change tout !
Great work. Very clever!! Thanks. And, You are a beautifull women!!!
Lovely technique !
Hey there! How did you choose the angle of the third circumference line? The one just under the waist line. It’s angled and I’m just wondering how many degrees or how you chose the angle?
Amazing video BTW ❤
It makes a triangle from the starting point so its the same length up to the start as dor the end. If youbare drawing by hand ypu can use a pen with a string of yarn on
@@runfridr Uh, can you try this explanation again? I had this same question, but your "Swenglish", as you call it, is making this explanation a little incomprehensible to me. So sorry, please and thank you.
Thank you 🙏
Thank you so much.
I couldn't follow Mariah's pattern because she was vague about what measurements went where so I was hopeful for this one but i find it even more vague like how high up on the verticle line do you place the horizontal lines. I have done many similar patterns like the Keystone book and i can mostly follow their example patterns. Except for when I use my measurements then the lines that are supposed to meet or cross over each other don't.
You measure from your waist up to how high you wamt it under your arm. Its usually the same as the bust line (wides point of bust) :)
very creative!
Tack för en fin tutorial! Jag ritade upp mitt första stays-mönster (vet inte vad de kallas på svenska) med hjälp av den, fick ändra framstycket lite då jag ritade på fri hand så proportionerna blev lite wacko, men i övrigt så passade mockupen på första försöket. 🙌
Tack och bra jabbat! :D
I have been considering trying to make a pair of stays that either have fused tabs, or else combining the bottom half of a Victorian/modern corset pattern with the top half of a pair of stays, because I need the tabs to break at or below the lateral lumbar indentations, to provide support for the joint between my lowest lumbar vertebrae and my sacrum. I can no longer wear the 1780s stays I made a couple years ago due to worsening back problems. The pattern I already have fits me very well (after 3 mock-ups), so I think that I could use your method and also use my existing pattern pieces to guide me, and using your technique, lengthen the lower edge. I could try the fused tabs or making a hybrid support garment with the look of stays at the top, but I am concerned that the petticoats may be too heavy without the tabs to support them). Your tecnique just might be my answer!
Any decent-quality modern corset in my size gives me the lower back support that I need, so I don't see any reason why I can't make stays that do the same thing! Do you think I need to make any additional modifications to your technique in order to get the lower back support that I need?
Ooh yes! You mean like making the bottom half smooth like a corset without tabs? Could be really cool :D
I have not worked with stays/corsets for back problems so I cant give a good advise unfortunately but atleast make alot of toiles untill it feels right. Corsets that are too tight hurt the lower back. Maybe somebody have made a video about back support corsets? :)
Good luck!
jaaaa, tack så mkt för detta!! Vill så gärna testa göra en korsett för hand lmao
This looks brilliant! Can I ask one quick clarification? When you're drawing the 'ending line', it's on a slope compared to the original bust and waist lines (not the curved ones, the OG ones!). I'm guessing this slope is the bust-waist measurement down from curved waistline? And just drawn straight between those two points? Is this correct? Thank you, excited to try this!
Thank you! I hope I understand the question corectly. Then yes its the same space inbetween that one and the waist line and then straigh out to the left to the new front line :)
@@runfridr that's great, thank you! I used this to resize a pattern from Redthreaded to (hopefully!) Fit me, excited to see how it goes! Thank you so much!
Good luck! :D
Thank you for this video❤ I have a cuestion ...the drawing of the stays it's made by free hand or there is also a method to make them? I can only find new ways of making corsets like 1990 stiles but never stays of that era
You can eather tey drawing it by free hand, or using an existing pattern that you adjust to your size. I think I used my Freya stays pattern here :)
ååååh den blev jättebra ju!
Does anyone know a good place to look for a pattern one could apply to this? The 'Patterns of Fashion 5' book seems permanently unavailable and i'm not sure where else to look for actual historical designs. (I have no idea how wide to make each piece)
Hi ! You can do it with whatever pattern you can find. For example is corsets and crinolines’ book
Im selling my pattern of the pink stays im wearing on thehistoricalfabricstore.com :) all sizes!
I rewatch the video now I am actually wanting to try and I have a little question. ! For the third horizontal line when you talk about enlarging the hips, this line is not perpendicular to the vertical one. Have you a specific angle for it or is it random ?
It is so interesting. A friend lent me her PoF5 and now I get a bit obsessed with all of that 😁 and team pattern nerds ahaha
Im nnot sure I understand the question? Its so hard speaking about a pattern without a picture haha! Since we are making a cone shaped garment the lines curve towards the front. The front line is where your measurements end.
@@runfridr So sorry i had never seen you had answered (I don’t receive notification I don’t know why). So I meant that at 5:30 you place the third horizontal line but it is not perpendicular to the vertical one, and I am not sure of how you decided that angle ? Maybe as you said it is the same distance as between the chest line and the waist line on the vertical line it is the same on the other side?
Also you talk avoir « 3 cm less than your waist » and I don’t understand what it means. Is it in width, in height or something ?
I have done 3 mock ups and start to be a bit desperate. It went perfectly until I drafted the tabs x)
@@MorganeRainbird was wondering about the angle of that line as well!
i think i can answer your other question though: with 3cm less than your waist, i’m pretty sure she means the circumference of your waist, halved (because you’re making the pattern for one half of your body), and then minus approx. 3cm because they don’t close all the way in the back.
removing 3cm from half your waist and bust circumferences would give you a 6cm gap between the centre back edges of the stays, which is why she says ‘from your spine’ bc that’s where the gap will be
Thank you for the video. Please tell me if the dress you are wearing is on your site? I can not tell….
Hi! Do you mean the underdress? No sorry not atm.
Why is the third line slightly tilted? i'm having a hard time figuring out how to tilt it and if there is a specific way to do it?
She aswered the same question to Becky Doherty in a old comment. Hope you got It. I was asking myself the same
@@cladagh447 Thank you!!
What i don't understand is: you start with your own busts and waist measurements - curved black line B and W. However, on the reworked/green line pattern the bust curve is a couple of cm bigger, and the waist is a lot bigger. Won't this affect the fit and make the stays too big?
Hi! No its doesnt change the width since you have gaps in between the pieces that you adjust. Bust and waist measurement is kept the same. The point is to make the hip area bigger :)
You still start with her pen-and-string curve method though, right? My waist measurement is larger than my bust, so I have no "horizon point" to even start drawing the curve.
You can try with some padding in the front under the bust and than try the method :) It also helps making the bust abit loose so it doesnt squeese them into much. Then focus on curving the side pieces and the back. The body tissue can move around alot so you can use the pieces to get the shape you want. So dont worry if the pattern looks more straight than cone like, the shaping will be done in between the pattern pieces. Then you get that nice straight front and some curve in the sides and back.
And the waist is still where your body bends on the side, not necessarily where the body is smallest. So thats where the waist line will be. It can help to ask a friend to measure.
Centre boob is called Apex!
Thank you and excuse my Swenglish 😂
I’m not sure if it’s an issue of my body shape or my inability to math correctly, but I can’t seem to get either method to produce even the base of a pattern. I think part of it is that I can’t figure out where the straps and center-side points are supposed to sit on the drawing, and when I try to work it out based on measurements, nothing lines up right. Not sure what I’m doing wrong, but I guess I’ll have to try something else. Maybe I’m just too trunky (my hips are only 1.5 in. Wider than my waist, and the distance from waist-to-hip is barely more than half the distance from underarm-to-waist.)
Have you had a look at a original pattern to make srnse out out of the tabs and how all the pieces sit on the body? There is nothing wrong with your body! If you dont have big hips you can focus on the waist, make the pieces long and cut out the tabs.
I have also released the Freja stays pattern on the historical fabric store for download if you want to use a pattern instead. 😊👍
Good luck!
What. computer program are you using? Thanks
Looks like Adobe Illustrator! Personally, I will try using Autocad to draft it, as I find it easier to draw using specific measurements for patterns
I used Adobe illustrator just for the presentation, I now use Affinity designer, both cheaper and better I think.
Am I wrong or you missee a step from Mariah? When you draw the curves lines from the point at the bottom, you need to adjust the length of the new curved lines as they will be smaller than the horizontal lines you started with. So they won't fit your measurements. Plus, when drawing the darts, you're again removing some fabric, reducing it again. Whatever you remove, either you add it somewhere or you might be overreducing the waist I think
Skulle du kunna göra en svensk version av detta? Svårt att förstå på engelska
Kan nog inte göra en video till (väldigt mkt jobb) men kan nog fixa svensk undertext :)