Been using these on the bathroom now for about 2 years.. really got me out of some tight pinches and made creating 2 way setups for the staircase a breeze.
My grandparents had a similar system installed during a bathroom renovation to control an LED downlighter. It means the switch can actually be inside the bathroom and not on the outside which is convenient.
As soon as you mentioned the kinetic energy generators in these switches, it made me think of the fact that they're also used in the *_wireless_* bell pushes (stop buttons) that buses have been made with since about 2018. Cool display cabinet btw 😎 Nice to see some of the items that featured in your older videos.
Out of interest did you try setting up the app? I'd imagine that would stop the light flickering? Agree a shame it doesn't automatically time out, but it might be interesting to see if the app offers any other useful options like setting the minimum brightness level that you were finding a pain for the cabinet LEDs?
What pointed you in the direction of this system as opposed to something like Zigbee, where you could also gain remote control and automation? Genuinely curious, from what you’ve said is it the removal of potential points of failure?
@@moth.monsterYup, I'd agree with that, but Zigbee is local. Or rather, there's no need to tie it to an internet connected service, though you absolutely can.
I already have a lot of Zigbee kit powered by Node-RED and Zigbee2MQTT. My main reason for using this was really to try something new and so that I could produce a video on it since this sort of system is much more set and forget than a lot of Zigbee options which would require batteries for switches without a mains supply. This system could be installed by a contractor and handed over to their customer without really any need for ongoing maintenance.
I have an outdoor floodlight that is controlled by an indoor switch, I would like to control it also by using a Quinetic key fob button. To allow me control the floodlight using a Quinetic key fob button, do I just need to purchase the Quinetic key fob button and receiver device to attach to the floodlight? Would I need to replace the indoor switch for a Quinetic switch also?
Did you ever try the switch with a higher quality dimmable bulb to see if that dimming to zero brightness even though the lights are still on quirk is resolved?
One LED bulb I have does what happens in this video: it dims to zero but is still "on". Another bulb I have doesn't do this and behaves better: it dims to very low and then immediately starts dimming up again. I don't know what is defining this behaviour, but I'd like to know what bulbs to buy in future to avoid the problem...
If you did want to go the full RF route for your lighting and worried about service and maintenance into the future, I guess that Lutron would be the way to go. Obviously the kit on the RA2 system is much more expensive than Quinetic or others but Lutron seems a big company that has been around a long time. Products look high quality to me but I have no direct experience of using them.
Yeah, RA2 Select was a consideration here although mostly for the Pico remotes since I generally use smart bulbs rather than something that the RA2 dimmers would control. It does look like I'd have been able to use the Pico remotes as an input to my home automation system but it was going to work out very expensive, especially when factoring that the stainless steel faceplates for the Pico remotes cost around £70 each which I'd have wanted so they matched the rest of my electrical accessories. Definitely something I'd be keen to try out though!
Why not set the app up? There maybe options to adjust the dim levels as well. You'd also then get full control of these in Hass unless I'm missing something?
Generally speaking I don't use Tuya smart home stuff and prefer to keep stuff locally hosted. I may briefly check to see if it allows me to set min/max dimming levels but even if it did, the next thing I'd do is get rid of the app.
Hey Cameron, I wonder if the LED is visible through the thin gaps in the switch for your wall one? Even a little bit of red light leakage would drive me absolutely mad. Doesn't look like it would be supported by something like Tasmota, as is the case with many of these Tuya specific controllers
Tried a few of these with different brands. Some receivers come with ZigBee support. Essentially all of the switch I got are actually sending RF433.92 to the receiver once being clicked, and thus work great with universal RF remote.
Thankfully the LED isn't visible although I suppose I imagine it comes down to the particular grid switch used, although nothing a bit tape can't solve. The module itself likely isn't flashable however it looks like a relatively standard form factor and pinout so would likely be swappable with a Tasmota compatible ESP based module.
@@camerongray1515 Could be a fun experiment to do! Depends on whether it needs any special procol stuff reversed for things like the dimmer and pairing or whether it is all pretty standard
1:56 Great Video Cameron, I’ve seen a few YT Electricians installing these switches. They look perfect for your needs. Out of curiosity, what lamp is by your door?
I've had that lamp for years so not 100% sure but I think it's just an IKEA floor lamp with a B&Q lamp shade. It's actually only there because I put a cabinet where it used to be so I stuck it by the door until I find another place for it or get rid of it.
I don't get your issue with the red flashing... why not just pair it with the app and be done with the flashing?? I feel that's a bit of unneeded fuss about nothing :)))) Just pair it and it won't flash anymore :)
I generally don't use these Tuya Smart Life smart home devices as I prefer to run everything locally without relying on third party cloud services. In my opinion, it shouldn't be required to set up an app to stop a device annoyingly flashing - the beauty of these devices is that they don't require any sort of app to operate.
@@camerongray1515 I totally agree, however, I didn't say use it, just pair it with the app, then drop the App maybe. I hate how everything has its own sh*tty app nowadays that they push hard so I understand your point totally :)
That is true, however I personally avoid using Tuya smart home based equipment and prefer to keep everything locally hosted. The only cloud based smart home tech I use is my Nest thermostat and Viessmann boiler.
I've used these all over my house. Been rock solid for over a year. Quinetic and TLC support have been fantastic.
as a tradesman that works with electrics, i wante to know more about the quinetic system and your video is so helpful. brilliant and well done
A mug of tea, some nibbles and a CG video. love the set up and the small tweaks you have carried out. great video..
Been using these on the bathroom now for about 2 years.. really got me out of some tight pinches and made creating 2 way setups for the staircase a breeze.
My grandparents had a similar system installed during a bathroom renovation to control an LED downlighter. It means the switch can actually be inside the bathroom and not on the outside which is convenient.
Nice video, I've been looking at these a while for one application and now I've seen this, I think I'll go ahead. Cheers.
As soon as you mentioned the kinetic energy generators in these switches, it made me think of the fact that they're also used in the *_wireless_* bell pushes (stop buttons) that buses have been made with since about 2018. Cool display cabinet btw 😎 Nice to see some of the items that featured in your older videos.
Out of interest did you try setting up the app? I'd imagine that would stop the light flickering? Agree a shame it doesn't automatically time out, but it might be interesting to see if the app offers any other useful options like setting the minimum brightness level that you were finding a pain for the cabinet LEDs?
What pointed you in the direction of this system as opposed to something like Zigbee, where you could also gain remote control and automation? Genuinely curious, from what you’ve said is it the removal of potential points of failure?
I refuse to use any smart home system that isn't local control only.
@@moth.monsterYup, I'd agree with that, but Zigbee is local. Or rather, there's no need to tie it to an internet connected service, though you absolutely can.
I already have a lot of Zigbee kit powered by Node-RED and Zigbee2MQTT. My main reason for using this was really to try something new and so that I could produce a video on it since this sort of system is much more set and forget than a lot of Zigbee options which would require batteries for switches without a mains supply. This system could be installed by a contractor and handed over to their customer without really any need for ongoing maintenance.
@@camerongray1515 Top stuff. And Zigbee2MQTT is sweet, most reliable way to build a mesh in my experience.
I have an outdoor floodlight that is controlled by an indoor switch, I would like to control it also by using a Quinetic key fob button.
To allow me control the floodlight using a Quinetic key fob button, do I just need to purchase the Quinetic key fob button and receiver device to attach to the floodlight? Would I need to replace the indoor switch for a Quinetic switch also?
Did you ever try the switch with a higher quality dimmable bulb to see if that dimming to zero brightness even though the lights are still on quirk is resolved?
One LED bulb I have does what happens in this video: it dims to zero but is still "on". Another bulb I have doesn't do this and behaves better: it dims to very low and then immediately starts dimming up again. I don't know what is defining this behaviour, but I'd like to know what bulbs to buy in future to avoid the problem...
If you did want to go the full RF route for your lighting and worried about service and maintenance into the future, I guess that Lutron would be the way to go. Obviously the kit on the RA2 system is much more expensive than Quinetic or others but Lutron seems a big company that has been around a long time. Products look high quality to me but I have no direct experience of using them.
Yeah, RA2 Select was a consideration here although mostly for the Pico remotes since I generally use smart bulbs rather than something that the RA2 dimmers would control. It does look like I'd have been able to use the Pico remotes as an input to my home automation system but it was going to work out very expensive, especially when factoring that the stainless steel faceplates for the Pico remotes cost around £70 each which I'd have wanted so they matched the rest of my electrical accessories. Definitely something I'd be keen to try out though!
Why not set the app up? There maybe options to adjust the dim levels as well. You'd also then get full control of these in Hass unless I'm missing something?
I think it's not wanting to create a Tuya account aand attach that to your wifi.
Generally speaking I don't use Tuya smart home stuff and prefer to keep stuff locally hosted. I may briefly check to see if it allows me to set min/max dimming levels but even if it did, the next thing I'd do is get rid of the app.
I wanted one for the porch light that can only be controlled from a switch inside, I wanted a switch outside too. But I found it too expensive
Hey Cameron, I wonder if the LED is visible through the thin gaps in the switch for your wall one? Even a little bit of red light leakage would drive me absolutely mad. Doesn't look like it would be supported by something like Tasmota, as is the case with many of these Tuya specific controllers
Tried a few of these with different brands. Some receivers come with ZigBee support. Essentially all of the switch I got are actually sending RF433.92 to the receiver once being clicked, and thus work great with universal RF remote.
Thankfully the LED isn't visible although I suppose I imagine it comes down to the particular grid switch used, although nothing a bit tape can't solve. The module itself likely isn't flashable however it looks like a relatively standard form factor and pinout so would likely be swappable with a Tasmota compatible ESP based module.
Maybe setup the app then delete it
@@camerongray1515 Could be a fun experiment to do! Depends on whether it needs any special procol stuff reversed for things like the dimmer and pairing or whether it is all pretty standard
1:56 Great Video Cameron, I’ve seen a few YT Electricians installing these switches. They look perfect for your needs. Out of curiosity, what lamp is by your door?
I've had that lamp for years so not 100% sure but I think it's just an IKEA floor lamp with a B&Q lamp shade. It's actually only there because I put a cabinet where it used to be so I stuck it by the door until I find another place for it or get rid of it.
Excellent video Cameron. So from my understanding, you can pair one switch to multiple receivers? Is that correct?
Exactly, that is correct
I don't get your issue with the red flashing... why not just pair it with the app and be done with the flashing?? I feel that's a bit of unneeded fuss about nothing :)))) Just pair it and it won't flash anymore :)
I generally don't use these Tuya Smart Life smart home devices as I prefer to run everything locally without relying on third party cloud services. In my opinion, it shouldn't be required to set up an app to stop a device annoyingly flashing - the beauty of these devices is that they don't require any sort of app to operate.
@@camerongray1515 I totally agree, however, I didn't say use it, just pair it with the app, then drop the App maybe. I hate how everything has its own sh*tty app nowadays that they push hard so I understand your point totally :)
To stop the flickering on the light box you need to set up the app that’s it
That is true, however I personally avoid using Tuya smart home based equipment and prefer to keep everything locally hosted. The only cloud based smart home tech I use is my Nest thermostat and Viessmann boiler.
@@camerongray1515 fair enough about the nest good video you did on it