Hello. This is Juan Barturen . Miami Springs, Fla, I am so glad you are back. I have been following you ever since you started Old Rusty, and I said, Oh my GOD, what is he going to do with that,, Hey You do awesome work, You are an inspiration for us guys doing what others said Oh my God.. I have a 1954 Chevrolet pick up, Work in progress, Thank you for sharing ,,
@@D3Sshooter Thank you for answering me. Yes I bought this truck over 25 years ago, I didn't have the experience, or the equipment to do what I am doing now. The truck started life as a 52 3/4 ton truck, I started dismantling it, I was convinced to trade 2 VW bodies for work on my truck body ( it was bad ).well the VWs were gone, and my truck was in worst shape than when I started, The guy replace it with a 54 wich is similar , but has a one piece windshield, then it sat in my garage for over 25 years,, I have the time, tools, and a lot more experience, OH I have you.. Its not original. But its coming along OK. I'm rambling, so I will stop now. Thank you..
This is not boring at all. in fact this is just the kind of videos we need with regards to engine repairs and mechanical works in general. Sure those cinematic videos with only exciting parts is pretty to watch but there’s nothing in them for us to learn. I was able to successfully adjust valve clearance on a Perkins 1000 series engine After watching your video on the Massey Ferguson. Keep making in-depth videos like this.
Thanks for the comments Jim, I work in stages as i have multiple projects. There is always a part missing and waiting on those parts, let alone finding them can take a long time
@@D3Sshooter Oh yes I know what you mean, finding original parts can take years sometimes, I rebuilt my old (ish) Yamaha from 1980 problem I found was some of the parts were specific to only my model ! It only took me 4 years to finish ! but it was worth it because I have owned the bike since 1991 looks stunning and pulls like a train😁 I have only just found your videos ! Subscribing right now 👍
Hello Sir, I jest found this channel. What I’m seeing is that you presenting good old school way of repairing things. You don’t see this very often. I will watch all your videos with pleasure. Thanks that you film and post all the knowledge. Best regards from Poland!
Another interesting restoration. After you have finished 'Old Rusty' will never have to blush in embarrassment, cosmetically or mechanically. If the journals are machined a minimal amount, with new bearings it should be as good--or better--than it was new. Thank you. My Siberian Husky dog (3 years) was able to go off of the property and was killed by a car a few days ago. I am now looking for another canine friend. Many blessings to you and yours in the New Year.
Excellent presentation as always. I see SantaClaus was busy last Christmas in your workshop with all your new pieces of equipment. Am I envious....🤔? Dam right I am! Great job so far on Old Rusty.
Thanks for the comments, and yes I got a few new pieces .. But not all that expensive... some are good quality others a bit less .. but then again the price was very low...
@@D3Sshooter As long as they do the job thats all that matters. Tools can be extremely expensive. You have a lot to do with old rusty but its such a worthwhile historical project and you are the perfect custodian for this vehicle. Superb restoration so far. 👍
Evening Steve. Great video as always. Old Rusty's engine is in a bad shape but I'm sure if anyone can put it back together you can 👍🏻 So glad your bringing us along for the ride 🤣 Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Hello, A video like this is sweet. You are well equipped, you are missing nothing. You will succeed in rebuilding it. For camshaft the tips seem more important to me than the rest. For the crankshaft a good workshop will refurbish it with a good balance, I like the motors without electronics or automaton which works well without all that, I have a massey fergusson 50 who is 60 years old and he is doing great and he is clearing snow of my yard etc etc Salutation et continuer !
Thanks, Indeed I am getting the cranckshaft re-grinded and polished and balanced. . Great to see that you have MF . I also use my MF 35 every week in the garden . I love old style engines although I am an electroncis engineer
@@christobar It is realitevly hard to explain in englisch for me - and there is a book from Gert Hack - Autos schneller machen - there are a lot of Informations, just google the name.
That looks really good! There is something very satisfying about bringing an engine back from a corroded hulk like that, you are very lucky the crankshaft was still standard size, and the camshaft looks to be in excellent condition now that you have cleaned it, the slight pitting will be a very good thing in as much as it will effect the followers very little, but will increase the lubricant retention ,there were some engine builder in the past that deliberately rusted the cylinder bores of racing engines as they found it retained oil and gave a greater wear resistance, a very good idea to get paint on that block quickly, and it looks very nice! Chris B.
Thanks Chris, indeed I love to bring back things that are totally destroyed or left behind... the good thing is that with this old stuff there are many ways to rebuild it. Not like with modern things, that can't be fixed
Thanks for a most informative video. I am particularly pleased that you included the cleaning. It’s very rarely included but an essential part of the operation. I look forward with great interest the assembly. I like your explanations. I only wish I had this type of presentation 30 - 40 years ago when it would have been of great benefit to me.
Coming to this a little late but i thought I would let you know about a way to measure scratches and pitting if you don't have the proper tools on hand. When i was working on F404 GE400 turbines in CFB Cold Lake I had a similar issue with some pitting and scratches that I wasn't sure would make certain components (mostly blades) unserviceable or not because they were extremely hard to measure properly. What I did was to get some dental wax from our dental unit and used it to press into the pits and scratches (once it had been hand worked until very soft and warm). After it had cooled in place, I would peel it off the item and then I had no problem measuring the mini-mountains that were left as now the pits and scratches were all protruding.
ok im gonna be honest sir that wreck you are posing on is intriguing on its own but the simple fact that even though you share appearance with it and still managed to intimidate me with that pose earned you a new subscriber
I now, the paint according to the datasheet does not require a primer... and is good for temperatures upto 170 degree centigrade. What do you use John as primer on an engine block ?
Looks very professional. And re: the crank you focus up front on the key issue: what sizes of bearings can I get for this? Glad to see that you can get what you need.
@@D3Sshooter Yes sir I know, I am not affraid of work. Last year i bought Iveco Daily III (in fact it was not that old its from 2002 but that things attracts rust as hell, it was pretty cheap 1,800 £ and mechanically in good condition and its frame is "C" Channel instead of tubing that means it was much easier to clean and rust protect it for me. Whole "front wheel area" was rusted and needed fixing, place where battery is in engine bay was also in bad condition. One of tension rods was broken and of course paint was needed. I made it and convert it for towing vehicle. Now i am using it with that feeling.. You know how its like to save something from decay this is amazing, isnt it? . Whole thing took me 1 month from body work to painting. I think it was worth it. Sorry for English, it isnt my native.
I can´t wait for the next episode of Old Rusty. Great Job so far! Can you make a video about the carburator on your BX 125 R sometimes in the future? According to the user manual one is supposed to remove the remaining gasoline from the carburator before winter, but i was unable to do it. Just an idea for one of your future videos. Best regards form South Tyrol
Original paint engine was green but every engine « rénové » ( Rebuild with correction size crankshaft bearing ) was repaint in black by Citroen in the 30’s
Excellent video! I'm planning some engine work. Is a micrometer with 0.01mm resolution sufficient or should I go for 0.001mm? What are the issues? Thanks, Mike
Thanks for the comments, with this kind of old engines a 0.01mm will do. Of course a 0.001 is better but then again we are not building a race engine. Just make sure that you have good quality and percise calibration blocks.
I can imagine the word "renové" is serving a place to show quality or low mileage of the engine. If it got renovated (or reconditioned?), the mechanic marked it with something like a center punch or a stamp.
Indeed, and now that its painted you will see in the next video the second rinse and oilchannel cleaning , just to make sure that all grid is gone. I had a video take in this video showing all the blanking of the oil galleries and machined area's , but I did forget to put the sound on... SO I left it out in the video... good catch, txs
Yes, I would say it is worth emphasizing for newbies that after sandblasting (or even just cleaning with solvent), you have to do a quite thorough job of trying to get rid of all of that grit. Small amounts of grit can be bad news for your new bearings.
It would be interesting to look at that pitting through a microscope or maybe a micro lens before you put it in, Modern cam shafts and lifters won't stay together long with pitting I understand old rusty is a different beast though.
@@D3Sshooter I've been loving the old Rusty videos and have been looking forward to this one a whole lot. Thanks for sharing all of them. Surface rust is a pain to control over here I normally coat my engine parts I have to store long term in chassis tube grease it's very messy but last longer than anything else I've found. Of course that doesn't help parts already affected when you get them.
Blasted engines only fail because "professional" reconditioners fail to flush out oil ways and retention areas, they start out new being blasted, but too many people come up with this scare story, they usually heard it from a bloke in the pub whose second cousin had that problem!
That is not an issue, you might have noticed that I used very fine garnet garnet 330, and that I have blocked of all oil galleries and machined area's.. Blasting was only on the outside of the block and the water galleries. Now that it is painted, I will flush the oil galleries once more and remove all possible grid if any. You will see that in another video... Going wild and blasting allover the engine including machined area's with grid like garnet is not a good idea and should not be done.
Seems like the comments thus far have missed something important. Where can I get one of the green zip up sweaters/jumpers? It looks warm and comfortable.
hi FLEMISH, YOU ARE USING MICRO METER TO CHECK JOURNALS. MMMM THAT IS GOOD, BUT ONE THING THAT I WANTED YOU TO SHOW US IS HOW AND WHERE DID YOU FIND THE SPECIFICATION FOR YOUR JOURNALS. I KNOW YOU TO BE ELECTRONIC ENGINEER BUT JUST DON`T KNOW HOW AND WHERE YOU GET THIS INFO. I THINK THAT CAN HELP US A LOT. M.B.S MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)
Hey D3Sshooter, yes "rénové" means that it has been renovated. Citroën used to leave a blank space on the bottom right corner of the engine plate, just in case.
I don't know what year your truck is (and I'm too lazy to look it up) so I don't know if I can help but... Citroen used parts across lines and years. I have a few 11 parts from the late 40's and 50's. This includes window winders. If I can help, let me know. :-)
Hi dave. This truck as far as i can check is 1949. Its the u23. And indeed some parts like the engine are common with the traction avant. But it would be great if you had parts
@@D3Sshooter I have 2 hulk's I need to recycle. What's stopping me is they both have a lot of usable components like doors, fenders, trunk lids, glass, and body sections which are usable. In other areas I have several 19 engines. Of course shipping from California for heavy stuff is prohibitive but I believe 11 parts are readily available.
I'll add that despite decades of weather exposure, I see much less rust in most areas of my 11s than in Old Rusty. The exception is the floor boards which are essentially gone as the cars had windows down and were outside for 30 or 40 years...
The weather doesn't look as severe as one would expect where you are....? No "steam" (water vapour) from your breath, and no "jet engine"-type space heaters....roaring....? Where's your steaming cup of coffee...gripped with the now-'ubiquitous,' shop gloves..... Remember: Belgium is on the same latitude as Labrador.....in N. America.....wherein, if you breathe in too long through your mouth, the upper and lower teeth will freeze together....!
Thanks for the comments, you are right , a hot tank - ultrasonic is the best. Yet blasting with a small garnet grit 330 on the external side only and not in any oil galleries or machined area's is IMO not an issue. I shoud have mentioned that in the video. In fact I had a video take on how I masked everything and what I was about to blast. I just forgot to put the sound up... so I left it out of the video.
Bullshit you dont want to have peaks on your surface material. aka you want to have a polished surface. oil film is only a thin layer between to surfaces rubbing agaisnt each other, Only pressure and flow matter. and of course how much load there is applied.
Thanks for the comment, i disagree polishing reduces the wear and tear. It allows for a very thin and smooth oil gliding film. Think about ski, try it with rough none waxed skies and polished wax skies.
@@TheBlabla1996 You can believe what you want, but its not true. Car Manifactures have done this Test, may before you were born. You need a good surface finish but NEVER a polished one. And even further, if you want to improve your knowledge, ask SCHRICK in germany. They do NOT polish their Cams... there is a reason for it. So, dont talk if you dont know what you are talking about.
Hello. This is Juan Barturen . Miami Springs, Fla, I am so glad you are back. I have been following you ever since you started Old Rusty, and I said, Oh my GOD, what is he going to do with that,, Hey You do awesome work, You are an inspiration for us guys doing what others said Oh my God.. I have a 1954 Chevrolet pick up, Work in progress, Thank you for sharing ,,
Thank you for the comments, and more is to come... how is your pick up , lots of work ?
@@D3Sshooter Thank you for answering me. Yes I bought this truck over 25 years ago, I didn't have the experience, or the equipment to do what I am doing now. The truck started life as a 52 3/4 ton truck, I started dismantling it, I was convinced to trade 2 VW bodies for work on my truck body ( it was bad ).well the VWs were gone, and my truck was in worst shape than when I started, The guy replace it with a 54 wich is similar , but has a one piece windshield, then it sat in my garage for over 25 years,, I have the time, tools, and a lot more experience, OH I have you.. Its not original. But its coming along OK. I'm rambling, so I will stop now. Thank you..
Exploring a old engine for rebuild is never boring , tells a story . Bill
Thanks for the comments, and indeed it is as going back in time...knowing that those who build it are long gone.
This is not boring at all. in fact this is just the kind of videos we need with regards to engine repairs and mechanical works in general. Sure those cinematic videos with only exciting parts is pretty to watch but there’s nothing in them for us to learn. I was able to successfully adjust valve clearance on a Perkins 1000 series engine After watching your video on the Massey Ferguson. Keep making in-depth videos like this.
Thanks for the comments
It's good to see the original motor of "Old Rusty" being put back in service! I'm sure you'll do a superior job Steve! ...Newk from Kentucky USA
Hi Timothy, Thanks for the comments... and I hope to get it running in a few weeks
I've only come across your channel in the last week. All your videos are excellent. Greetings from Ireland.
Glad you like them!
Its cool that you are trying to save the old engine and not just swaping something in there.
Thanks for the comments
Nice to see Old Rusty being worked on again! Thank you for sharing your progress
Thanks for the comments Jim, I work in stages as i have multiple projects. There is always a part missing and waiting on those parts, let alone finding them can take a long time
@@D3Sshooter Oh yes I know what you mean, finding original parts can take years sometimes, I rebuilt my old (ish) Yamaha from 1980 problem I found was some of the parts were specific to only my model ! It only took me 4 years to finish ! but it was worth it because I have owned the bike since 1991 looks stunning and pulls like a train😁
I have only just found your videos ! Subscribing right now 👍
Hello Sir,
I jest found this channel. What I’m seeing is that you presenting good old school way of repairing things. You don’t see this very often. I will watch all your videos with pleasure. Thanks that you film and post all the knowledge. Best regards from Poland!
Thanks for the nice comments, I try to keep things simple.... enjoy. P.S I have many Polish friends at work.
Another interesting restoration. After you have finished 'Old Rusty' will never have to blush in embarrassment, cosmetically or mechanically. If the journals are machined a minimal amount, with new bearings it should be as good--or better--than it was new. Thank you. My Siberian Husky dog (3 years) was able to go off of the property and was killed by a car a few days ago. I am now looking for another canine friend. Many blessings to you and yours in the New Year.
Thanks for the commentsTom, and sorry to hear about your dog...
the production level on this is really good
Thanks for the comments, I try
It's my first time on this channel and finally, a restoration video without completely idiotic techno or heavy metal music in background! Thank you!
Thanks for the comments,
Heavy Metal is fine. Techno sucks.
Excellent presentation as always. I see SantaClaus was busy last Christmas in your workshop with all your new pieces of equipment. Am I envious....🤔? Dam right I am! Great job so far on Old Rusty.
Thanks for the comments, and yes I got a few new pieces .. But not all that expensive... some are good quality others a bit less .. but then again the price was very low...
@@D3Sshooter As long as they do the job thats all that matters. Tools can be extremely expensive. You have a lot to do with old rusty but its such a worthwhile historical project and you are the perfect custodian for this vehicle. Superb restoration so far. 👍
Evening Steve. Great video as always. Old Rusty's engine is in a bad shape but I'm sure if anyone can put it back together you can 👍🏻 So glad your bringing us along for the ride 🤣 Stevie 😎🇬🇧
Thanks Stevie, I will do my best to get it running again.
Thumbs up, you are doing excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Hello, A video like this is sweet. You are well equipped, you are missing nothing. You will succeed in rebuilding it. For camshaft the tips seem more important to me than the rest. For the crankshaft a good workshop will refurbish it with a good balance, I like the motors without electronics or automaton which works well without all that, I have a massey fergusson 50 who is 60 years old and he is doing great and he is clearing snow of my yard etc etc Salutation et continuer !
Thanks, Indeed I am getting the cranckshaft re-grinded and polished and balanced. . Great to see that you have MF . I also use my MF 35 every week in the garden . I love old style engines although I am an electroncis engineer
He polished the F out of that camshaft, nice job
Thanks for the comments,
Because of the polished surface, the oil film doesnt "stick" very good. Rocket Arms surfaces shouldnt be polished either, becuz of the same problem.
@@biiLL4bonG ehhhhhhhh, this is some dubious advice. However, I'd love to see some science behind it.
@@christobar It is realitevly hard to explain in englisch for me - and there is a book from Gert Hack - Autos schneller machen - there are a lot of Informations, just google the name.
That looks really good! There is something very satisfying about bringing an engine back from a corroded hulk like that, you are very lucky the crankshaft was still standard size, and the camshaft looks to be in excellent condition now that you have cleaned it, the slight pitting will be a very good thing in as much as it will effect the followers very little, but will increase the lubricant retention ,there were some engine builder in the past that deliberately rusted the cylinder bores of racing engines as they found it retained oil and gave a greater wear resistance, a very good idea to get paint on that block quickly, and it looks very nice! Chris B.
Thanks Chris, indeed I love to bring back things that are totally destroyed or left behind... the good thing is that with this old stuff there are many ways to rebuild it. Not like with modern things, that can't be fixed
Great video thanks for posting
I see some new machinery there , thanks for posting your project !
Thanks for the comments
Nice vid mate, don't listen to the grumps, but you probably know that already. Great information for someone like me who is still learning.
Thanks for the comments, I try to share what I know and for the rest I have a thick skin lol , so I do not get upset about those specific comments
Great video and great work! You are lucky to have found oversize crankshaft bearings to that old engine.
Thanks for the comments..., Indeed and that is because the engine is the same as the Traction Avant of which 300.000 cars were build.
Thanks for a most informative video. I am particularly pleased that you included the cleaning. It’s very rarely included but an essential part of the operation.
I look forward with great interest the assembly. I like your explanations. I only wish I had this type of presentation 30 - 40 years ago when it would have been of great benefit to me.
Thanks for the comments...James. I will provide more detail in the comming video's
wish i knew how to do this. something rewarding about restoring something back to such nice and clean condition
Thanks for the comment, its not that hard. Simple and strong technology
Coming to this a little late but i thought I would let you know about a way to measure scratches and pitting if you don't have the proper tools on hand. When i was working on F404 GE400 turbines in CFB Cold Lake I had a similar issue with some pitting and scratches that I wasn't sure would make certain components (mostly blades) unserviceable or not because they were extremely hard to measure properly. What I did was to get some dental wax from our dental unit and used it to press into the pits and scratches (once it had been hand worked until very soft and warm). After it had cooled in place, I would peel it off the item and then I had no problem measuring the mini-mountains that were left as now the pits and scratches were all protruding.
Thanks for the comments and tips.
Its not god job, but its nice and the best, thanke you so much, 👍👍👍👍👍nice to see this kind of pepole ❤❤❤❤👍
Thanks for the comments
ok im gonna be honest sir that wreck you are posing on is intriguing on its own but the simple fact that even though you share appearance with it and still managed to intimidate me with that pose earned you a new subscriber
Thanks for the comments, and I love you text...
Good video, in was surprised to see how thick the bearing shells were.
Reminds me of the bearing shells in old Caterpillar tractor engines from the 40’s and 50’s. They had a lot of beef to them too.
Thanks, and indeed those ate thick and called white metal
Indeed, and this engine is from the same period
nice work. I enjoyed watching it.
Thank you! Cheers!
Altijd geweldig om te zien :)
Thanks for the comments
Electric motor is still a great idea for another project. Gotta go with the times ! Glad motor rebuild was chosen though.
Thanks for the comments Nick
Interesting and informative.
Thanks for the comments
Very informative Steve thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
Thanks for the comments, my pleasure
Very nice job 👍
Thanks for the comments
I love watching your videos and the pacing.
Thanks for the comments
It is always nice to se something off god quality and a history be restored to glory again insted off the buy and dump culture we now have
Thanks for the comments, agreed
Now it looks like a “ Detroit” diesel, Ha. Very nice video.
I was surprised to see no primer used....
hahaha
I now, the paint according to the datasheet does not require a primer... and is good for temperatures upto 170 degree centigrade. What do you use John as primer on an engine block ?
Nice snickers pants, my favourite and the only brand that works for me 👍🏻😀
Thanks for the comments,
Looks very professional. And re: the crank you focus up front on the key issue: what sizes of bearings can I get for this? Glad to see that you can get what you need.
Thanks for the comments, not the first engine I did
great video series, appreciate you taking the time to film this sort of stuff. Your Elise videos were really good too. Subbed
Thanks for the comments, much appreciated
Thank you
I wait for more 😊👍🏻🇳🇴
Thanks for the comments, its coming
Awesome job, nice explaining, I wish I could get car from '30 and restore it
Thanks for the comment, you can still find them for low prices but lots of work
@@D3Sshooter Yes sir I know, I am not affraid of work. Last year i bought Iveco Daily III (in fact it was not that old its from 2002 but that things attracts rust as hell, it was pretty cheap 1,800 £ and mechanically in good condition and its frame is "C" Channel instead of tubing that means it was much easier to clean and rust protect it for me. Whole "front wheel area" was rusted and needed fixing, place where battery is in engine bay was also in bad condition. One of tension rods was broken and of course paint was needed. I made it and convert it for towing vehicle. Now i am using it with that feeling.. You know how its like to save something from decay this is amazing, isnt it? . Whole thing took me 1 month from body work to painting. I think it was worth it. Sorry for English, it isnt my native.
Working on my dads 1970 dodge coronet, its been outside for almost 30 years. Working on the engine first.
Thanks for the comments, any video's of it ?
Very interesting! Great work!
Thanks for the comments
Nice job man i like your style.
Thanks for the comment
I can´t wait for the next episode of Old Rusty. Great Job so far!
Can you make a video about the carburator on your BX 125 R sometimes in the future? According to the user manual one is supposed to remove the remaining gasoline from the carburator before winter, but i was unable to do it. Just an idea for one of your future videos.
Best regards form South Tyrol
Thanks for the comments... as for the 125 , mine is a injection model so no carburettor...
@@D3Sshooter Oh. That makes sense. So mine is probably too. Thank you!
A big undertaking that engine rebuild but if it fails you can always put a V8 in Old Rusty :).
Thanks for the comments, it will not fail , this is very simple mechanical stuff . nothing fancy..
Christ they don't come much simpler than a 1950s 4cyl, 3main bearing .,wet liner cast iron block engine .
@@geraldswain3259 , yep indeed
Original paint engine was green but every engine « rénové » ( Rebuild with correction size crankshaft bearing ) was repaint in black by Citroen in the 30’s
Thanks for the comment, that explains the black paint. Great comment
Very very nice video
txs for the comments
Good video !!
Thanks!
Excellent video! I'm planning some engine work. Is a micrometer with 0.01mm resolution sufficient or should I go for 0.001mm?
What are the issues?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks for the comments, with this kind of old engines a 0.01mm will do. Of course a 0.001 is better but then again we are not building a race engine. Just make sure that you have good quality and percise calibration blocks.
2:57 yes it's means it has been renovated/reconditioned before but.. a long time ago indeed !
Thanks for the comment
Like if youtube recommended you this lol
Thanks for the comments
great work thank you
Thanks for the comments
Finally! Great video, as always.
Thanks for the comments, more to come
HBM is gewoon de shit! mooie en leerzame video! keep it up!
Thanks, en voor HBM. Bepaalde items zijn wel OK. Maar veel andere chinese import is inderdaad rommel en de prijs is dan wel heel laag
I can imagine the word "renové" is serving a place to show quality or low mileage of the engine. If it got renovated (or reconditioned?), the mechanic marked it with something like a center punch or a stamp.
Thanks for the comments
yes, it's renovated.
Very interesting videos. thanks
Thanks for the comments
Aways wash a engine block after blasting!! The dust is everywear.
Indeed, and now that its painted you will see in the next video the second rinse and oilchannel cleaning , just to make sure that all grid is gone. I had a video take in this video showing all the blanking of the oil galleries and machined area's , but I did forget to put the sound on... SO I left it out in the video... good catch, txs
Yes, I would say it is worth emphasizing for newbies that after sandblasting (or even just cleaning with solvent), you have to do a quite thorough job of trying to get rid of all of that grit. Small amounts of grit can be bad news for your new bearings.
@@DNomer Indeed
Great video and my compliments for your English... dat hoor je niet zo vaak!
Thank you for the comments, graag gedaan
whats your opinion on Electrolysis to restore engines?
Thanks for the comments, I need to say that I have no experiences with that methods..
Super like 😀👍
txs for the comments
Excellent!
Thanks for the comments
It would be interesting to look at that pitting through a microscope or maybe a micro lens before you put it in, Modern cam shafts and lifters won't stay together long with pitting I understand old rusty is a different beast though.
Indeed John, I have looked at it in detail and it was caused by surface rust..
@@D3Sshooter I've been loving the old Rusty videos and have been looking forward to this one a whole lot. Thanks for sharing all of them.
Surface rust is a pain to control over here I normally coat my engine parts I have to store long term in chassis tube grease it's very messy but last longer than anything else I've found. Of course that doesn't help parts already affected when you get them.
Nice .
Thanks for the comments
I would assume the tappets are convex. If so I would think the cam lobs are going to be an issue.
Thanks for the comments, I think that this is not am issue as the followers are flat and cover the entire cam lobe. the pushrods sit in the followers
@@D3Sshooter Very good. I know you are well versed. Just didn't want something simple being overlooked.
Great video. Thank you for sharing.
What old Citroën car is this engine for ?
That is a CV-11 , the same as in the Traction Avant
Thank you for your answer sir.
Enjoyed vid thanks . Don't think I would have gone any were near that block with a shot blaster wouldn't have risked getting it contaminated.
Blasted engines only fail because "professional" reconditioners fail to flush out oil ways and retention areas, they start out new being blasted, but too many people come up with this scare story, they usually heard it from a bloke in the pub whose second cousin had that problem!
That is not an issue, you might have noticed that I used very fine garnet garnet 330, and that I have blocked of all oil galleries and machined area's.. Blasting was only on the outside of the block and the water galleries. Now that it is painted, I will flush the oil galleries once more and remove all possible grid if any. You will see that in another video... Going wild and blasting allover the engine including machined area's with grid like garnet is not a good idea and should not be done.
Thanks , Englishman indeed as you stated ..
good job
Thanks for the comments
Seems like the comments thus far have missed something important. Where can I get one of the green zip up sweaters/jumpers? It looks warm and comfortable.
Thanks for the comments..., thrift store
It looks entirely too nice for power washing an engine block :P
хоть ни слова не понял,но очень интересно!
Thanks for the comment
Green is a fashion color for this year, so Rusty will be in vogue
Thanks for the comments , on the back page ...lol
@@D3Sshooter Need to do a photo shoot with Rusty when done, like the Phase one with all the pretty people.
Piękna szkoła druciarstwa...
Zobacz lepiej jak powstaje Polskie Porsche
Thanks for the comments
hi FLEMISH, YOU ARE USING MICRO METER TO CHECK JOURNALS. MMMM THAT IS GOOD, BUT ONE THING THAT I WANTED YOU TO SHOW US IS HOW AND WHERE DID YOU FIND THE SPECIFICATION FOR YOUR JOURNALS. I KNOW YOU TO BE ELECTRONIC ENGINEER BUT JUST DON`T KNOW HOW AND WHERE YOU GET THIS INFO.
I THINK THAT CAN HELP US A LOT.
M.B.S MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)
Thanks for the comments, hi well that is easy I have the old workshop manual...
Hey D3Sshooter, yes "rénové" means that it has been renovated. Citroën used to leave a blank space on the bottom right corner of the engine plate, just in case.
Thanks for the comments, I see
What liquid are you using in the Ultrasonic cleaner ?
Thanks for the comments, D33, sorry for the late reply
I don't know what year your truck is (and I'm too lazy to look it up) so I don't know if I can help but...
Citroen used parts across lines and years. I have a few 11 parts from the late 40's and 50's. This includes window winders. If I can help, let me know. :-)
Hi dave. This truck as far as i can check is 1949. Its the u23. And indeed some parts like the engine are common with the traction avant. But it would be great if you had parts
@@D3Sshooter I have 2 hulk's I need to recycle. What's stopping me is they both have a lot of usable components like doors, fenders, trunk lids, glass, and body sections which are usable. In other areas I have several 19 engines. Of course shipping from California for heavy stuff is prohibitive but I believe 11 parts are readily available.
I'll add that despite decades of weather exposure, I see much less rust in most areas of my 11s than in Old Rusty. The exception is the floor boards which are essentially gone as the cars had windows down and were outside for 30 or 40 years...
Was the block originally green?
Yes indeed as far as I could trace back/ this one was painted later with black
Would have liked the electric, on this , but battery tech for the average person is not good enough in my opinion.
Thanks for the comments, battery and electronics is a piece of cake for me as an electronics engineer
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the comments...
where do you get that polish block from?
I got the paste from HLM machines and the polisher from tool mania. Both in the Nederlands with a webshop for global shipping.
@@D3Sshooter thank you
I wasn't expecting your voice to be like that. I was kinda expecting the guy from parks and recreation
Thanks for the comments, hahaha
When will we see more of old rusty.
Very soon
@@D3Sshooter Can't wait to see more , this is one of your best project's, I think. So different to all the modern mechanical gear.
He looks like Rick Sanchez from Rick and Morty.
Thanks for the comments, hahaha
@@D3Sshooter i'm glad you took it as a compliment! you should :)
@@JoeHynes284 i am not hating i think its really cool
Ahhhh a new parts washer.
Ronald Church yep, my old one died on me after 13 years
Renove is Portuguese for renovate/repair/rebuild etc. Regards Paul Fowell.
Thanks for the comments, that is what I suspected
@D3Sshooter where do you come from? Your accent reminds me of Dutch. And i noticed that you have Dutch polishing paste from HBM Machines.
Thanks for the comment, Vlaanderen is my region. And polisher is from toolmania
@@D3Sshooter Ah okay, thanks for responding. Keep up the good work! Je maakt leuke videos, erg interessant.
тоже двиг перебираю ,головняк конкретный ,изза мелочевки
Thanks for the comment
Hi.hope u can make a more video on brixton. Thank you sir
If I have time , I will
I always get in trouble when i polish my shaft in public
Thanks for the comments, hahaha not a good idea
Lets hope it works
Thanks for the comments..., It will... what can go wrong ? Its simple and straight forward technology from the old days
gościu wygląda jak Rick Sanchez :D
Thanks for the comments,
The weather doesn't look as severe as one would expect where you are....? No "steam" (water vapour) from your breath, and no "jet engine"-type space heaters....roaring....? Where's your steaming cup of coffee...gripped with the now-'ubiquitous,' shop gloves..... Remember: Belgium is on the same latitude as Labrador.....in N. America.....wherein, if you breathe in too long through your mouth, the upper and lower teeth will freeze together....!
TXS for the comments, its ok the weather about 5 degrees but lots of rain. and the cup is empty...
Why not upgrade to a remanufactured Ford Pinto engine? It will have an oil filter and much more power.
Thanks for the comments..., no Pinto in this truck... want to keep it original... I will rebuild a Pinto for the super seven
Half the time with old cars you machine to the available bearings, never blast blocks always hot tank
Thanks for the comments, you are right , a hot tank - ultrasonic is the best. Yet blasting with a small garnet grit 330 on the external side only and not in any oil galleries or machined area's is IMO not an issue. I shoud have mentioned that in the video. In fact I had a video take on how I masked everything and what I was about to blast. I just forgot to put the sound up... so I left it out of the video.
Is it me or that crankshaft is bent??? 12:30
Thanks for the comments, I hope not... PS it is still not back from the shop.. who knows
@@D3Sshooter If he keeps it that long,
it is either that he has a lot of work at the moment, or that the crankshaft has a big problem...
Why its always old something, old rusty, old sporty, old geezer.. 😄😄
Hillside Projects because i am an old guy. And all the stuff i work on is old. Except the Elise. Haha
Sandblasting with no gloves . . . Risky man ) .
Thanks for the comments , yes indeed as I am using very low pressure and not such an aggressive grit
нихуя не понял, но было очень интересно!
Thanks for the comments
Because of the polished surface, the oil film doesnt "stick" very good. Rocket Arms surfaces shouldnt be polished either, becuz of the same problem.
Bullshit you dont want to have peaks on your surface material. aka you want to have a polished surface. oil film is only a thin layer between to surfaces rubbing agaisnt each other, Only pressure and flow matter. and of course how much load there is applied.
Thanks for the comment, i disagree polishing reduces the wear and tear. It allows for a very thin and smooth oil gliding film. Think about ski, try it with rough none waxed skies and polished wax skies.
Thanks for the comment, i agree
@@TheBlabla1996 You can believe what you want, but its not true. Car Manifactures have done this Test, may before you were born. You need a good surface finish but NEVER a polished one. And even further, if you want to improve your knowledge, ask SCHRICK in germany. They do NOT polish their Cams... there is a reason for it. So, dont talk if you dont know what you are talking about.
Skiers and Camshaft.. sorry but this is the baddest comparison i have ever heard.
НИЧЕГО НЕ ПОНЯЛ.....ТАКОЕ ЗАНУДСТВО....НО МОТОРЧИК НАДО ПОСТАВИТЬ НА ХОД...
sorry , can't read this. but thanks
@@D3Sshooter LEARN RUSSIAN.