I usually use manual + auto ISO, but on some occasions when I know the light level is going to be pretty constant I will use manual ISO as well, I find a subject with the same exposure levels as my intended subject and take test shots and adjust ISO to match, I find this can be useful for birds in flight because sometimes the camera will expose for a bright sky background and I end up with a silhouette shot of the bird if using auto ISO.
As you said: in wildlife photography ,things are happening quickly.We need settings that would allow us to act faster. I started using the Manual mode and auto ISO about 2 years ago , and never looked back. Very useful , quick and accurate. I used to think , that a manual mode means , everything has to be in manual. But no , I was wrong. It's only manual mode on my camera. My lens is still set to auto.My ISO is still auto. It saved me a lot of time , and helped me with having much less blurred images. This video explains very easily how beneficial is a Manual mode to any wildlife photographer. Thank you very much Sabine.
Agree with your settings Sabine, even with the modern cameras I set my ISO limits between 100 to 3200. Thank you all for posting short content rich videos during the lockdown period.
Manual, auto ISO and EC. I don't even worry about ISO anymore because ISO for the 1DX, R5, R6 are so good and because I shoot RAW and can remove noise with Topaz Denoise. I don't even think about ISO these days. I want to get the shot and worry about the other stuff later.
FLV mode. Set the shutter speed I need to freeze action (or not), and the aperture I need (or desire) for depth of field. Use exposure compensation as needed.
I agree! I’ve been using M Mode with AutoISO for concert shooting for several years, and it’s fantastic! The newer full frame sensors perform beautifully at higher ISO’s. It’s very liberating, although I feel odd calling it “Manual,” since the camera still has control.
Nice video. I'm a hobbyist wildlife photographer, and I agree with you. When shooting birds with full manual mode, I lose many shots. I now mostly shoot with shutter speed priority with auto ISO. I use 1/500s for most cases and quickly adjust it to 1/1000-2000s for BIF. I sometimes decrease it to 1/100s for low light shots. It's a quick adjustment with the wheel. That's with the Canon 77D. With my Sony RX10-IV, I set it to shoot at 1/125s auto ISO, AFC, flexible focus point, slow-burst for perching birds. I programmed the button on the lens to switch to 24fps burst mode with the full-screen focus point and 1/2000s for BIF. So, when I see a BIF, I just hold down this button and get 24fps. I usually get some shots this way.
Janine, I've just SUBSCRIBED to your channel because you've made a great video here about Manual mode/Auto ISO and exposure compensation. My DSLR Canon 7D Mark II is set up for that combo BUT I find it laborious/inefficient to have to acquire Exposure Compensation through the following sequence (as per the manual) for each and every time I wish to access exposure compensation: 1. Press MENU button 2. Goto shooting menu #2 (which shows Exp. Comp./AEB) 3. Press SET 4. Rotate Quick Dial to desired exposure composition setting. Isn't there a more expedient way????? Many thanks!!!
Good video!!!! I shot Manual-Auto ISO a for a long time. Now in my Sony A1, I shoot predominantly Auto ISO Minimum Shutter Speed. It’s fantastic and my Wow Image rate is much higher for Wildlife, Birds, etc…..
I’ve just added to the settings (including auto ISO which I’ve used for some time) Custom 1 is set to electronic shutter, highest frames/second, fast shutter 2,500th, etc - Custom 2 single shot mechanical shutter, at 200th second shutter, auto ISO, This I found is excellent for changing according to your subject.
I’m with you! I’ve used auto ISO for a couple of years and find it liberating. On overcast days I can always slow down shutter speed a little to avoid super high ISO values but it is definitely my preferred shooting method. I have been generally been using spot metering for birds in flight too. Thanks for the video.
Thank You, I enjoyed your Video on Auto ISO in Manual Mode, made sense. I am not positive that I have Exposure Compensation on my Nikon D3300. I enjoyed your Scandinavian Accent too. Attractive too.
after struggling with ISO in manual mode and doing exactly as you described, Sabine, following birds from dark to light background, I have now gone to auto ISO with a couple of dial changes. (Canon R6 + RF100-500) I've changed Quick Control Dial 2 to Exposure Compensation and the Control Ring on the lens to ISO this change has really helped with monitoring the Histogram in the viewfinder. Thanks for all your videos
Sabine ist the best. 😉👍. Sabine ist die beste! wieder so ein schönes video , das die Sachen wunderbar erklärt! vom Instinkt her machte ich auch so. aber es ist immer gut eine Person vom Fach zu hören, die die Sachen schön, rationnell erklärt Danke. 😀
I agree with you 100%. I've seen people use and preach Aperture priority mode for wildlife, but I've never understood why they'd want to let go control of their shutter speed. I've been using Manual mode with Auto ISO for the past year and I love the control it gives me.
Thanks Sabine, your channel was recommended by a friend and the content is really good. Have been using AV and TV modes majorly while shooting wildlife. Will definitely give Manual mode a try
Very helpful video. I’ve used manual plus auto ISO with exposure compensation for a long time. Do you have any videos or recommendations for plus vs minus settings for exposure compensation for different scenarios such as bright skies, dark backgrounds, white birds, dark birds, etc?
I have historically used Aperture Mode for African Wildlife Photography. Having recently acquired an EOS R6, I will definitely move to Manual + Auto ISO. I understand how to control depth of field in safari scenarios but I'm not sure what shutter speeds I should set, given image stabilised lenses (eg. EF 100-400 ii IS) and in camera IBIS. Would you please advise some rules of thumb for shutter speed settings. By the way, in 2016 I was on one of your water level boats on the Chobe River with Wim and Brendan of Tusk Photo.
Pentax puts this exposure mode on the dial.I save it in a user slot,along with other settings I use for photographing wildlife,because Sea Otters may appear at any time where they occur in rough,rocky areas.
I have just started using Man-Auto ISO, tricky at first but it is now my goto setting when in the field, my 5D responds so well in this setup.thank you for the extra tip on exposure compensation.
Have always been afraid of higher ISO but going to auto more and more. Really depends on circumstances as to using manual, shutter or aperture priority which you addressed quite well. Excellent examples on manual & auto ISO...thanks.
Using manual mode with auto ISO and shutter and aperture set, I often use bracketing with 3 shots to handle changing light conditions. For birds in flight, in bright skies, a 3 shot bracket of .3, .67, +1 works good to cover most situations. Especially when shooting Bald Eagles and trying to not overexpose the white head. Increase bracket as needed depending of the light. Shooting white birds like swans or egrets, again a 3 shot bracket of 0, -.3, -.67 often helps get that just right photo. Often shooting at 6-10 frames per second just gives similar images of the target. By adding bracketing, you are apply another variable that often saves you from that unrecoverable under/over exposed shot. Give it a try...
Hehe, this "Game Changer" feature Pentax had since ... many years ago. As well as sensor shake reduction, weather sealing ... Canon did not need to implement this since it is big player and can sell anything and market will swallow. :)
With the new Canon R I use the Fv mode which allows me to select aperture and shutter speed to my needs and Auto ISO. I could use M mode, but with Fv I have the choice to tweak aperture or shutter speed when needed without removing the eye from the EVF. Canon has a great idea.
Hi Carlos. Thanks a lot for watching! I agree, the new Canon Fv mode is a great addition and allows for great flexibility! I haven't had the chance yet to experiment with it myself but it sure sounds awesome and comments like yours confirm that it is :) However I think once one is used to Manual + Auto ISO it wouldn't make life easier changing to the Fv mode as I can also change aperture and shutter speed without taking my eye from the viewfinder. In the end its all a matter of own preference and what works for yourself!
@@sabine-pangolinphotohost9232 Agree that Fv is more flexible, but if you like M, stick with whatever is works better for you. I did two safaris with M + Auto ISO and the keep rate increased. Eager to try Fv on my next safari and take advantage of the exposure compensation with the Canon R.
Interesting. I've been shooting A/P for landscape with auto ISO. Lately, I've been doing more woodland hiking. I'm going to try M with auto ISO. When it comes to wildlife photography, I'm some what a beginner. For my needs, the 5D IV is more than adequate. My next camera will most likely have camera IS as I mostly shoot handheld and like video too.
Tended to use shutter priority. I've never thought about the issues you raise so thanks. Given the current lock down, I'll have to try to remember this for when I can get out taking photos again!
Hi Ben. Thank you for watching! Always good to try out new things, you might just be surprised ;) I have shot for many years on aperture priority which gave me decent results BUT changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I don't look back! Have fun.
Thanks for the best video ever, that has changed my photography.I was using av mode and could not understand why the wing tips or tail of an animal or bird was not in focus.Getting it right slowly but surely practice practice..........
Or the (IMHO) fantastic FLV mode on Canon! Even less expensive modern cameras are capable of shooting relatively high ISOs with reasonably low levels of noise, and software programs are able to seamlessly remove most of what's left. It's a brave new world!
This is was a great video! Thank you. The only thing that I would have like to have heard from you was the setting you like to use for wildlife shooting.
Hi, thank you for this short and to the point masterclass. I tend to manually work this way when taking video, there of course my shutter speed is pre- chosen for the motion blur but I want to also pre-set the depth of field and then concentrate on my tracking and composition, not fiddling with a lot of camera controls once I start filming. The advantage I have with my camera is that I can have the iso speed control under the finger next to the thumb on one of the the record buttons. I've not really thought about doing it automatically this way with my still camera so thank you for the heads-up. BobUK.
Curious if in manual with auto iso and the camera allows exposure compensation on screen but, when touching the shutter the camera reverts to auto iso cancelling any exposure compensation?
I have typically utilized aperture priority and adjusted ISO to manage shutter speed. It has been suggested to me that I should utilize Auto ISO, but it has not been so succinctly outlined, as you did in this video. If we ever get an opportunity to go out and shoot again because of current challenges, I will definitely utilize your recommendations. Thanks Sabine!
Hi Harvey. Thanks so much for watching! Please do try! I have shot on Aperture priority myself when starting out in wildlife photography. Changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I have never looked back. Try and make a point to still keep an eye on your ISO within your viewfinder though and don't completely ignore it. That is the biggest mistake I made in the beginning and I often ended up with too high ISO's. With time you learn to simply lower the shutter speed or open the aperture when seeing the ISO is too high and it quickly becomes second nature ;)
With modern cameras, the one thing that was said to me once was "I'd rather have a slightly noisy image, than a blurry image". Don't be afraid of higher ISOs like 1600 or 3200 or even 6400 on modern cameras. Most modern cameras can handle this pretty good (compared to cameras of even 5-6 years ago, where ISO 3200 may have been your limit before serious image degredation occurs). That same person said this: "We can address the image noise, but we can't fix blur from shake [due to too slow of a shutter speed]". Also if you're not having to change your exposure in post very much (say by more than 1/2 or 1 stop) then even images shot at high ISO (say ISO 3200) will look better than an underexposed image that was shot at say ISO 800 but has to be bought up 2 stops in post.
Hello 👋🏻 my issue is that my camera don't compensate the exposure to 0 when I'm in manual mode with auto ISO... modern reflex/mirrorless are able to keep the exposure alsway to 0 (as when you are in AV/Tv/) when you are in M mode with auto ISO, but my camera (Canon 50d) don't do it and I want to know if I have to enable some settings to have it or just my camera is old and is not able to do it ?
Great video. Why do you not recommend Program (P) mode? I have a Nikon D5100 and have read that P is a good mode for wildlife safaris. I am a learner photographer.
Hi Edward. Program mode is a mix between auto and manual mode where you can set a specific ISO and the camera chooses an aperture and shutter speed to get the "correct" exposure. It also enables you to change the aperture or shutter speed value but you will never be in full control which is why we prefer Manual with Auto ISO. Now you can set a fixed aperture and shutter speed according to the situation while the camera compensates changing the ISO automatically. Perhaps try both methods and see what works better for you ;) -Sabine
I use Auto ISO only occasionally anymore but when I do I set a limit on the upper range. This varies depending on the camera I'm using. My EOS R is set at no higher than 3200. I use 2000 as the upper limit on my 7DMKII. I also use an Olympus EM1X and i set the upper limit at 4000 on that one.
Hi Robert. Thank you for watching and engaging with us! I am sure many people will find your max ISO settings on your various cameras useful and can try them as a starting point. I found that ISO really is perceived differently by everyone so it does take some time and looking back at images to decide until which ISO one is happy to go to. Keep well!
I always using manual setting + auto ISO on my Olympus OMD EM5 camera + Mzuiko 75-300mm lens...by the way, nice video. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and greeting from Singapore
Hello Sabine. Thank you for sharing knowledge. I have a Nikon D850 and I shoot in manual + auto iso. On very cloudy days I have the photos with a lot of noise / grainy and it is difficult to stay focused. Any suggestion? Thanks, regards
Hi Joao. I can only suggest to always look at the ISO your camera selects in the viewfinder, especially when you notice the light being low. If the ISO then is too high for your taste and your aperture is wide open already, you will have to bring your shutter speed down, have the lens stabilization enabled and hold the camera/lens as still as you can. Of course that goes only for static subjects. Anything that moves will be blurry even if you hold still. You could however pan with the moving subject on a slow shutter speed and get some creative panning shots ;) -Sabine
One of my arms is paralyzed so shooting manual is not feasible as my good arm is pointing camera on tripod. Causes me great angst. Can you explain what taking a reading means? Thank you.
Sabine, Why not go for 'manual' focussing as well? By manual focussing I mean altering your camera focussing to so that it operates off the back focussing button. Your comments?
Hi Rob. Thank you for watching and engaging with us. I totally agree on back button focus. Have been using it for a few years now and can't imagine life without. Janine did a great tutorial on it if you are interested: th-cam.com/video/lAl_qwqeYbk/w-d-xo.html
Sony has a setting ‘ISO AUTO with minimum shutter speed” which is very useful for wildlife. In most cases I set min shutter speed to 1/2000 sec with suitable manual f stop depending on subject...
Hi Richard. Thank you for watching the tutorial and engaging with us! I am sure many Sony users will appreciate your advise on setting up a minimum shutter speed for wildlife ;)
Hi Richard. Thank you for watching the tutorial and engaging with us! I am sure many Sony users will appreciate your advise on setting up a minimum shutter speed for wildlife ;)
Hi Krishna. Thank you very much for watching and engaging with us. I see that illustrations could really benefit the tutorial. Once we are free to roam again I'll try to do some on field examples :)
Thanks so much for this really useful video. My concern is that that the camera doesn't know whether I'm photographing a static or moving object. It has no idea what the shutter speed should be. Doesn't this uncertainty negatively impact the automatic ISO? I know there's a way to set a minimum shutter speed, but we the photographer would have to make that decision in real time, wouldn't we? Let's say I'm in the midst of photographing a close-up, slow-moving elephant, and then a bird goes flying overhead, and I want to capture in motion. This seems like a potentially problematic scenario. I'm not saying there's a solution, though, besides trying to control everything in full manual mode, which brings its own set of challenges. Any thoughts, anyone?
You can’t set a min SS in manual with auto iso - the SS stays where you set it and only the iso changes. Setting auto iso with min SS only applies to A and P modes.
Dear Sabine, I am so glad I found this channel and enjoy very informative videos. I have been on a photo safari only once (Kruger in 2013) and came home with very decent photos using a (now pretty outdated) D40x but quickly discovered the limitations of my kit. As I plan to purchase a new camera over the next few months which I plan to use for a variety of photography styles (wildlife, landscape, etc) these "technical" tutorials are very helpful as they provide information to add to my list of options to look out for when making decisions on what camera to purchase. As my budget is somewhat limited, I am currently looking at either the Nikon D500 or the Canon 90D (I did watch Janine's video on the 90D). Any suggestions?
Greetings -- What is the upper limit you use? I use a D850, which goes to 25,600. Should I just let the camera go all the way as it needs? Many thanks.
Thank you for the great clips and advice Sabine. I have a Canon 70D camera that doesn't accommodate manual exposure compensation when in Manual + Auto ISO mode. For wildlife photography in general: Is it better to use the 70D in M+Auto ISO mode with Evaluative metering mode instead of Av mode that accommodates manual exposure compensation? Is it really that critical if the photo processing software can take care of it later? I would appreciate your perspective here. Thank you!
Hi Jeremy. Thanks for watching and your question. It really is a pity that Canon was quite late in introducing Manual Auto ISO with exposure compensation. In your case I'd probably stick with AV then as exposure compensation is crucial in lots of situations and not having it could really ruin shots. Yes, you can fix slight over or underexposed images but if it's too much it will be difficult. Hope this helps ;) -Sabine
In the case of a bird flying in front of different backgrounds; if the light falling on the subject does not change, would it not be better to get the correct exposure for the bird using manual mode and then the bird would be correctly exposed regardless of the background? It would seem Auto ISO would be better with changing light on the subject such as a partly cloudy day.
Jeffrey Levine Hi Jeffrey. Thank you for watching and your very valid question! If you have the time to adjust your exposure in full manual mode before the bird is taking off then that would be the perfect scenario in the case that the light on the bird stays consistent. If the light on the bird changes however I found manual + auto iso to be more safe. In the end it is whatever works for you 😉
Hi Michael. Thank you for watching. Please do try! I have shot on Aperture priority myself when starting out in wildlife photography. Changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I have never looked back. Try and make a point to still keep an eye on your ISO within your viewfinder though and don't completely ignore it. That is the biggest mistake I made in the beginning and I often ended up with too high ISO's. With time you learn to simply lower the shutter speed or open the aperture when seeing the ISO is too high and it quickly becomes second nature ;)
I have noticed that some cameras cant operate like this, my LX5 cant use auto ISO in MANUAL mode, and nor can my G12 do this. But my g9x mark ii can. I love to shoot like that. Have any ideas have to fix this?
Good advice except that with any auto setting you are trusting that the meter will pick the right exposure. Some “matrix” or “evaluative” metering can be unpredictable. Spot, centre-weighted and average metering all can be fooled by tricky lighting conditions. Best exposure system is an experienced human brain that can make quick decisions and adjustments to shutter speed, aperture and/or ISO.
100% agree. I use this for almost every situation I shoot in, not just wildlife. Using flash often means I need to lock my ISO, but otherwise this is the way to go.
Hi there, thanks for watching! I also do use this shooting method almost exclusively for the last few years. Just switching to full manual for Astro. Have a great weekend!
In the aperture priority mode, you can set the minimum stutter speed ( this feature is available only in the mid level to higher end cameras ) in the camera and set the ISO to AUTO. In this way You can control the Aperture and still have a fast shutter speed. What I am trying to say is that You dont have to be in the Manual mode only, for wildlife photography.
Canon 70D. I shoot birds in Manual Mode with Auto ISO. I can bracket my exposures. Bracketing works, but only 1/3 of my photos are what I want. Is Canon 70D capable of over exposing (or underexposing) every shot in Manual Mode with Auto ISO?
keep in mind than bracketing and exposure compensation are two different things. Bracketing basically tells the camera to take three different pictures: one with the settings that you have dialed in, one underexposed and another one overexposed. Instead, exposure compensation applies on all the images that you are taking with a given setting.
Hi Saranathan. Thanks for watching and engaging. Yes Auto ISO with Aperture priority is possible too, however I found the trouble with that is that the camera might select a too slow shutter speed, to prioritize a lower ISO. In wildlife photography that might ruin the shot, unless you also select a Min shutter speed in the Auto ISO menu.
jepp, mat Sinn. So mach ich es inzwischen auch. Noise kriegt man im Post einfacher weg als motion blur. Wie ernst ist 3200 ISO als maximal Wert denn gemeint? Kommt man auch mit 6400 weg?
Ohne deine Kamera zu kennen ist dies nicht zu beantworten. Aber wie sie richtig sagte, die Kameras welche in den letzten 2-3 Jahren auf den Markt kamen, können fast alle relativ gut mit Werten um 3'200 ISO umgehen (Je mehr Megapixel die Kamera hat, desto heikler sind sie in der Regel). Alles darüber ist Russisch Roulette und müsste wie sie sagte für deine Kamera und auch deinen persönlichen Geschmack, ausprobiert werden. Man kann nicht von anderen erwarten, dass sie einem die geeigneten Werte frei Haus liefern ... bissel eigener Einsatz muss schon sein ;-) Viel Spass und gutes Gelingen ...
Hi Thomas. Danke fuer deine Anfrage. Wie xeropaga81 bereits beschrieben hat, liegt es einerseitz an deiner Kamera und zum Anderen an deinem persoenlichen Geschmack. Mit meiner Kamera habe ich keine Scheu auch auf ISO 6400 zu schiessen, wenn das Objekt nah genug ist. Wenn man viel hinterher noch ausschneiden muss dann sieht man das Bildrauschen ziemlich deutlich. Welche Kamera hast du denn?
What default camera setting do you currently use for wildlife photography?
I usually use manual + auto ISO, but on some occasions when I know the light level is going to be pretty constant I will use manual ISO as well, I find a subject with the same exposure levels as my intended subject and take test shots and adjust ISO to match, I find this can be useful for birds in flight because sometimes the camera will expose for a bright sky background and I end up with a silhouette shot of the bird if using auto ISO.
As you said: in wildlife photography ,things are happening quickly.We need settings that would allow us to act faster. I started using the Manual mode and auto ISO about 2 years ago , and never looked back. Very useful , quick and accurate. I used to think , that a manual mode means , everything has to be in manual. But no , I was wrong. It's only manual mode on my camera. My lens is still set to auto.My ISO is still auto. It saved me a lot of time , and helped me with having much less blurred images. This video explains very easily how beneficial is a Manual mode to any wildlife photographer. Thank you very much Sabine.
Agree with your settings Sabine, even with the modern cameras I set my ISO limits between 100 to 3200. Thank you all for posting short content rich videos during the lockdown period.
Manual, auto ISO and EC. I don't even worry about ISO anymore because ISO for the 1DX, R5, R6 are so good and because I shoot RAW and can remove noise with Topaz Denoise. I don't even think about ISO these days. I want to get the shot and worry about the other stuff later.
FLV mode. Set the shutter speed I need to freeze action (or not), and the aperture I need (or desire) for depth of field. Use exposure compensation as needed.
I agree. Manual with auto ISO works great-especially with today’s technology.
A very compelling case for auto-ISO. The best part is the recommendation at the end if your camera can't adjust exposure in manual mode/auto-ISO.
I’ve been using auto ISO for about 3 years in combination with exposure comprehension. It’s brilliant especially when photographing birds in flight.
Hi Bill. Thanks for watching! Glad you also see the advantages. My bird in flight shots definitely profited from switching to this mode.
Exposure comprehension?
frostybe3r auto correct sux!
Thanks Sabine for your very clear explanation of why Manual Mode with Auto ISO is so useful for wildlife photography!
Auto ISO made the biggest difference in my wildlife Photograpy, I have been using it the last 4 years. Give it a try.....
Yes! Finally I found someone that agrees with my normal shooting mode! Nikon D780 handles this perfectly.
I shot in the same way. Glad to know there are many like-minded photographers! 😊
I agree! I’ve been using M Mode with AutoISO for concert shooting for several years, and it’s fantastic! The newer full frame sensors perform beautifully at higher ISO’s. It’s very liberating, although I feel odd calling it “Manual,” since the camera still has control.
I love your tips
Hi Sabina, I m a great fan of you...
Your way of teaching is marvelous and I have learnt a lot,cleared doubts...
Thanks
Nice video. I'm a hobbyist wildlife photographer, and I agree with you. When shooting birds with full manual mode, I lose many shots. I now mostly shoot with shutter speed priority with auto ISO. I use 1/500s for most cases and quickly adjust it to 1/1000-2000s for BIF. I sometimes decrease it to 1/100s for low light shots. It's a quick adjustment with the wheel. That's with the Canon 77D.
With my Sony RX10-IV, I set it to shoot at 1/125s auto ISO, AFC, flexible focus point, slow-burst for perching birds. I programmed the button on the lens to switch to 24fps burst mode with the full-screen focus point and 1/2000s for BIF. So, when I see a BIF, I just hold down this button and get 24fps. I usually get some shots this way.
Thank you for watching! Glad Auto ISO works for you :)
Janine, I've just SUBSCRIBED to your channel because you've made a great video here about Manual mode/Auto ISO and exposure compensation. My DSLR Canon 7D Mark II is set up for that combo BUT I find it laborious/inefficient to have to acquire Exposure Compensation through the following sequence (as per the manual) for each and every time I wish to access exposure compensation:
1. Press MENU button
2. Goto shooting menu #2 (which shows Exp. Comp./AEB)
3. Press SET
4. Rotate Quick Dial to desired exposure composition setting.
Isn't there a more expedient way?????
Many thanks!!!
I will be on my first safari ever within two weeks, but I've been using this same technique in street photography for a while now
Good video!!!! I shot Manual-Auto ISO a for a long time. Now in my Sony A1, I shoot predominantly Auto ISO Minimum Shutter Speed. It’s fantastic and my Wow Image rate is much higher for Wildlife, Birds, etc…..
I’ve just added to the settings (including auto ISO which I’ve used for some time) Custom 1 is set to electronic shutter, highest frames/second, fast shutter 2,500th, etc - Custom 2 single shot mechanical shutter, at 200th second shutter, auto ISO,
This I found is excellent for changing according to your subject.
This is a very crucial video for every Wildlife Photographer! Thank you, Sabina, for sharing this knowledge!
Thank you
I’m with you! I’ve used auto ISO for a couple of years and find it liberating. On overcast days I can always slow down shutter speed a little to avoid super high ISO values but it is definitely my preferred shooting method. I have been generally been using spot metering for birds in flight too. Thanks for the video.
Joe Fratianni Thanks for the feedback Joe, much appreciated!
Thank You, I enjoyed your Video on Auto ISO in Manual Mode, made sense. I am not positive that I have Exposure Compensation on my Nikon D3300. I enjoyed your Scandinavian Accent too. Attractive too.
after struggling with ISO in manual mode and doing exactly as you described, Sabine, following birds from dark to light background, I have now gone to auto ISO with a couple of dial changes. (Canon R6 + RF100-500) I've changed Quick Control Dial 2 to Exposure Compensation and the Control Ring on the lens to ISO this change has really helped with monitoring the Histogram in the viewfinder. Thanks for all your videos
Thank you for explaining so clearly the benefits of each technique.
You are welcome and thanks for watching!
This is the clearest explanation of auto-ISO that I have seen.
Sabine ist the best. 😉👍. Sabine ist die beste! wieder so ein schönes video , das die Sachen wunderbar erklärt! vom Instinkt her machte ich auch so. aber es ist immer gut eine Person vom Fach zu hören, die die Sachen schön, rationnell erklärt Danke. 😀
Hallo Francois. Vielen lieben Dank fuer dein Interesse und die netten Worte ;)
Thank you!
I agree with you 100%. I've seen people use and preach Aperture priority mode for wildlife, but I've never understood why they'd want to let go control of their shutter speed. I've been using Manual mode with Auto ISO for the past year and I love the control it gives me.
Anand Sriraman Thank you very much Anand for watching and agreeing 😉
Thanks Sabine, your channel was recommended by a friend and the content is really good. Have been using AV and TV modes majorly while shooting wildlife. Will definitely give Manual mode a try
Thanks Sabine ! Again, some very good advices from you guys from Pangolin !
Thanks for watching Patrick!
Very helpful video. I’ve used manual plus auto ISO with exposure compensation for a long time. Do you have any videos or recommendations for plus vs minus settings for exposure compensation for different scenarios such as bright skies, dark backgrounds, white birds, dark birds, etc?
Could I control exposure compensation, during shooting at manual mode and auto ISO with Nikon Z6 mark 2 ?
I have historically used Aperture Mode for African Wildlife Photography. Having recently acquired an EOS R6, I will definitely move to Manual + Auto ISO. I understand how to control depth of field in safari scenarios but I'm not sure what shutter speeds I should set, given image stabilised lenses (eg. EF 100-400 ii IS) and in camera IBIS. Would you please advise some rules of thumb for shutter speed settings. By the way, in 2016 I was on one of your water level boats on the Chobe River with Wim and Brendan of Tusk Photo.
Perfect, I use this during my shooting
Just on question, for your safari (Bird, Elephant, on the boat in your vidéo) how lense do you use ?
I do as well, with back button focus only way to go for serious wildlife photography
Thanks for watching and agreeing ;)
Pentax puts this exposure mode on the dial.I save it in a user slot,along with other settings I use for photographing wildlife,because Sea Otters may appear at any time where they occur in rough,rocky areas.
Great tips - thank you !!
Thank you for watching. More to come ;)
I have just started using Man-Auto ISO, tricky at first but it is now my goto setting when in the field, my 5D responds so well in this setup.thank you for the extra tip on exposure compensation.
No problems Kevin.
Have always been afraid of higher ISO but going to auto more and more. Really depends on circumstances as to using manual, shutter or aperture priority which you addressed quite well. Excellent examples on manual & auto ISO...thanks.
Thank you Joseph!
Valid points and useful to consolidate this understanding.
Once you Flash, it can still be used, but needs some tweaking iin shutter speed.
Thanks for watching and your input on the subject, much appreciated! -Sabine
Awsome channel
Thank you.
Once more a very well explained tutorial. Thanks Sabine.
I know its old news for you guys but thanks for watching anyway ;)
Sabine, it is always good to go over this. So easy to forget.
Thanks for the tip Sabine.
You are so welcome!
Very nice job explaining the different shooting modes! 👏👏👏
Thanks Danny.
Using manual mode with auto ISO and shutter and aperture set, I often use bracketing with 3 shots to handle changing light conditions.
For birds in flight, in bright skies, a 3 shot bracket of .3, .67, +1 works good to cover most situations. Especially when shooting Bald Eagles and trying to not overexpose the white head. Increase bracket as needed depending of the light.
Shooting white birds like swans or egrets, again a 3 shot bracket of 0, -.3, -.67 often helps get that just right photo.
Often shooting at 6-10 frames per second just gives similar images of the target. By adding bracketing, you are apply another variable that often saves you from that unrecoverable under/over exposed shot. Give it a try...
Again another well explain topic ... excellent !
Glad you liked it!
Agree 100% For me 6400 is better than no picture
Awesome, thanks for sharing the love for Manual and Auto ISO ;)
Does my Nikon D500 support this feature ?
Dose Nikon D850 able to automatic exposure compensation in Manual Mode+Auto ISO if selected?
Great information
Thank you very much!
Hehe, this "Game Changer" feature Pentax had since ... many years ago. As well as sensor shake reduction, weather sealing ... Canon did not need to implement this since it is big player and can sell anything and market will swallow. :)
Agreed! This is my shooting mode as well. Great explanation!
Great to hear and happy shooting ;) -Sabine
Thanks
You are right thank you
Thanks so much!
Thank you very much for this info. Enjoying your tutorials imensely.
Hi Marleen. Thank you very much for being such a supporter. Happy if they help ;)
With the new Canon R I use the Fv mode which allows me to select aperture and shutter speed to my needs and Auto ISO. I could use M mode, but with Fv I have the choice to tweak aperture or shutter speed when needed without removing the eye from the EVF. Canon has a great idea.
Hi Carlos. Thanks a lot for watching! I agree, the new Canon Fv mode is a great addition and allows for great flexibility! I haven't had the chance yet to experiment with it myself but it sure sounds awesome and comments like yours confirm that it is :) However I think once one is used to Manual + Auto ISO it wouldn't make life easier changing to the Fv mode as I can also change aperture and shutter speed without taking my eye from the viewfinder. In the end its all a matter of own preference and what works for yourself!
@@sabine-pangolinphotohost9232 Agree that Fv is more flexible, but if you like M, stick with whatever is works better for you. I did two safaris with M + Auto ISO and the keep rate increased. Eager to try Fv on my next safari and take advantage of the exposure compensation with the Canon R.
Interesting. I've been shooting A/P for landscape with auto ISO. Lately, I've been doing more woodland hiking. I'm going to try M with auto ISO. When it comes to wildlife photography, I'm some what a beginner. For my needs, the 5D IV is more than adequate. My next camera will most likely have camera IS as I mostly shoot handheld and like video too.
Camera now a day can handle high iso thank you
Depends on your camera, your sensor, and your budget...cheers
Tended to use shutter priority. I've never thought about the issues you raise so thanks. Given the current lock down, I'll have to try to remember this for when I can get out taking photos again!
Hi Ben. Thank you for watching! Always good to try out new things, you might just be surprised ;) I have shot for many years on aperture priority which gave me decent results BUT changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I don't look back! Have fun.
Do you set limits on the upper ISO??
Thanks for the best video ever, that has changed my photography.I was using av mode and could not understand why the wing tips or tail of an animal or bird was not in focus.Getting it right slowly but surely practice practice..........
Great to hear!
Or the (IMHO) fantastic FLV mode on Canon! Even less expensive modern cameras are capable of shooting relatively high ISOs with reasonably low levels of noise, and software programs are able to seamlessly remove most of what's left. It's a brave new world!
Camera bodies today are more advanced and to use auto iso is a massive benefit
Very true, thanks for your input ;) -Sabine
This is was a great video! Thank you. The only thing that I would have like to have heard from you was the setting you like to use for wildlife shooting.
Hi, thank you for this short and to the point masterclass. I tend to manually work this way when taking video, there of course my shutter speed is pre- chosen for the motion blur but I want to also pre-set the depth of field and then concentrate on my tracking and composition, not fiddling with a lot of camera controls once I start filming. The advantage I have with my camera is that I can have the iso speed control under the finger next to the thumb on one of the the record buttons. I've not really thought about doing it automatically this way with my still camera so thank you for the heads-up. BobUK.
Hey Bob, thanks for your feedback and perhaps you can try and see if it will work for video too! -Sabine
Curious if in manual with auto iso and the camera allows exposure compensation on screen but, when touching the shutter the camera reverts to auto iso cancelling any exposure compensation?
I have typically utilized aperture priority and adjusted ISO to manage shutter speed. It has been suggested to me that I should utilize Auto ISO, but it has not been so succinctly outlined, as you did in this video. If we ever get an opportunity to go out and shoot again because of current challenges, I will definitely utilize your recommendations. Thanks Sabine!
Hi Harvey. Thanks so much for watching! Please do try! I have shot on Aperture priority myself when starting out in wildlife photography. Changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I have never looked back. Try and make a point to still keep an eye on your ISO within your viewfinder though and don't completely ignore it. That is the biggest mistake I made in the beginning and I often ended up with too high ISO's. With time you learn to simply lower the shutter speed or open the aperture when seeing the ISO is too high and it quickly becomes second nature ;)
With modern cameras, the one thing that was said to me once was "I'd rather have a slightly noisy image, than a blurry image". Don't be afraid of higher ISOs like 1600 or 3200 or even 6400 on modern cameras. Most modern cameras can handle this pretty good (compared to cameras of even 5-6 years ago, where ISO 3200 may have been your limit before serious image degredation occurs). That same person said this: "We can address the image noise, but we can't fix blur from shake [due to too slow of a shutter speed]".
Also if you're not having to change your exposure in post very much (say by more than 1/2 or 1 stop) then even images shot at high ISO (say ISO 3200) will look better than an underexposed image that was shot at say ISO 800 but has to be bought up 2 stops in post.
Hello 👋🏻 my issue is that my camera don't compensate the exposure to 0 when I'm in manual mode with auto ISO... modern reflex/mirrorless are able to keep the exposure alsway to 0 (as when you are in AV/Tv/) when you are in M mode with auto ISO, but my camera (Canon 50d) don't do it and I want to know if I have to enable some settings to have it or just my camera is old and is not able to do it ?
Great video. Why do you not recommend Program (P) mode? I have a Nikon D5100 and have read that P is a good mode for wildlife safaris. I am a learner photographer.
Hi Edward. Program mode is a mix between auto and manual mode where you can set a specific ISO and the camera chooses an aperture and shutter speed to get the "correct" exposure. It also enables you to change the aperture or shutter speed value but you will never be in full control which is why we prefer Manual with Auto ISO. Now you can set a fixed aperture and shutter speed according to the situation while the camera compensates changing the ISO automatically. Perhaps try both methods and see what works better for you ;) -Sabine
Thanks for the explanation.
You're welcome!
Good Job
Thank you!
Thanks for this video! I’ll try this for sure this weekend.
Hi Ruud. Thanks for watching. Very happy to encouraged you to try it out. Let me know if you run into any trouble. Happy shooting :)
I use Auto ISO only occasionally anymore but when I do I set a limit on the upper range. This varies depending on the camera I'm using. My EOS R is set at no higher than 3200. I use 2000 as the upper limit on my 7DMKII. I also use an Olympus EM1X and i set the upper limit at 4000 on that one.
Hi Robert. Thank you for watching and engaging with us! I am sure many people will find your max ISO settings on your various cameras useful and can try them as a starting point. I found that ISO really is perceived differently by everyone so it does take some time and looking back at images to decide until which ISO one is happy to go to. Keep well!
I always using manual setting + auto ISO on my Olympus OMD EM5 camera + Mzuiko 75-300mm lens...by the way, nice video. Thanks for sharing. Stay safe and greeting from Singapore
Hi Cheiko. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Hello Sabine. Thank you for sharing knowledge. I have a Nikon D850 and I shoot in manual + auto iso. On very cloudy days I have the photos with a lot of noise / grainy and it is difficult to stay focused. Any suggestion? Thanks, regards
Hi Joao. I can only suggest to always look at the ISO your camera selects in the viewfinder, especially when you notice the light being low. If the ISO then is too high for your taste and your aperture is wide open already, you will have to bring your shutter speed down, have the lens stabilization enabled and hold the camera/lens as still as you can. Of course that goes only for static subjects. Anything that moves will be blurry even if you hold still. You could however pan with the moving subject on a slow shutter speed and get some creative panning shots ;) -Sabine
PhotographThanks a lot Sabine 😉👍
Thanks for another great video, you guys are doing a wonderful job during this trying times.
Hi Keith. Thank you for watching, keep well!
One of my arms is paralyzed so shooting manual is not feasible as my good arm is pointing camera on tripod. Causes me great angst. Can you explain what taking a reading means? Thank you.
Have Been useful, did great work, thanks
Hi Makawana. Thank you! Glad it was useful!
Sabine, Why not go for 'manual' focussing as well? By manual focussing I mean altering your camera focussing to so that it operates off the back focussing button. Your comments?
Hi Rob. Thank you for watching and engaging with us. I totally agree on back button focus. Have been using it for a few years now and can't imagine life without. Janine did a great tutorial on it if you are interested: th-cam.com/video/lAl_qwqeYbk/w-d-xo.html
Sony has a setting ‘ISO AUTO with minimum shutter speed” which is very useful for wildlife. In most cases I set min shutter speed to 1/2000 sec with suitable manual f stop depending on subject...
Hi Richard. Thank you for watching the tutorial and engaging with us! I am sure many Sony users will appreciate your advise on setting up a minimum shutter speed for wildlife ;)
Hi Richard. Thank you for watching the tutorial and engaging with us! I am sure many Sony users will appreciate your advise on setting up a minimum shutter speed for wildlife ;)
Hi Sabine, great video by the way. Keep up the good tips..
What abt illustrating what you've just said. That would be so loud & clear.
Btw thankyou so much for the ideas you guys share 👌❤️
Hi Krishna. Thank you very much for watching and engaging with us. I see that illustrations could really benefit the tutorial. Once we are free to roam again I'll try to do some on field examples :)
Thanks
Such a helpful tip.
Glad it was helpful!
Is Nikon D850 and D7200 capable to maintain manual mode with auto ISO?
Hi there, yes they are.
Will try this I tend to have it on AV and adjust the iso when needed .
Chris Martin Hi Chris. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
Chris Martin Hi Chris. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
Very good ‘ great knowledge passed on
Thank you Martin. Glad you liked it and appreciate the comment!
Thanks so much for this really useful video. My concern is that that the camera doesn't know whether I'm photographing a static or moving object. It has no idea what the shutter speed should be. Doesn't this uncertainty negatively impact the automatic ISO? I know there's a way to set a minimum shutter speed, but we the photographer would have to make that decision in real time, wouldn't we? Let's say I'm in the midst of photographing a close-up, slow-moving elephant, and then a bird goes flying overhead, and I want to capture in motion. This seems like a potentially problematic scenario. I'm not saying there's a solution, though, besides trying to control everything in full manual mode, which brings its own set of challenges. Any thoughts, anyone?
You can’t set a min SS in manual with auto iso - the SS stays where you set it and only the iso changes. Setting auto iso with min SS only applies to A and P modes.
Dear Sabine, I am so glad I found this channel and enjoy very informative videos. I have been on a photo safari only once (Kruger in 2013) and came home with very decent photos using a (now pretty outdated) D40x but quickly discovered the limitations of my kit. As I plan to purchase a new camera over the next few months which I plan to use for a variety of photography styles (wildlife, landscape, etc) these "technical" tutorials are very helpful as they provide information to add to my list of options to look out for when making decisions on what camera to purchase. As my budget is somewhat limited, I am currently looking at either the Nikon D500 or the Canon 90D (I did watch Janine's video on the 90D). Any suggestions?
90D is the best
Greetings -- What is the upper limit you use? I use a D850, which goes to 25,600. Should I just let the camera go all the way as it needs? Many thanks.
Yes, exactly. I all depends on the amount of noise you are going to tolerate vs the potential to miss a shot in fading light.
Thank you for the great clips and advice Sabine. I have a Canon 70D camera that doesn't accommodate manual exposure compensation when in Manual + Auto ISO mode. For wildlife photography in general: Is it better to use the 70D in M+Auto ISO mode with Evaluative metering mode instead of Av mode that accommodates manual exposure compensation? Is it really that critical if the photo processing software can take care of it later? I would appreciate your perspective here. Thank you!
Hi Jeremy. Thanks for watching and your question. It really is a pity that Canon was quite late in introducing Manual Auto ISO with exposure compensation. In your case I'd probably stick with AV then as exposure compensation is crucial in lots of situations and not having it could really ruin shots. Yes, you can fix slight over or underexposed images but if it's too much it will be difficult. Hope this helps ;) -Sabine
Trade in then70D for a second hand 80D. It easily accommodates Auto ISO and exposure compensation. Plus it’s a great camera for stills and video.
In the case of a bird flying in front of different backgrounds; if the light falling on the subject does not change, would it not be better to get the correct exposure for the bird using manual mode and then the bird would be correctly exposed regardless of the background? It would seem Auto ISO would be better with changing light on the subject such as a partly cloudy day.
Jeffrey Levine Hi Jeffrey. Thank you for watching and your very valid question! If you have the time to adjust your exposure in full manual mode before the bird is taking off then that would be the perfect scenario in the case that the light on the bird stays consistent. If the light on the bird changes however I found manual + auto iso to be more safe. In the end it is whatever works for you 😉
Thanks, I am going to go outside and try this, and see if I can live with this
Hi Michael. Thank you for watching. Please do try! I have shot on Aperture priority myself when starting out in wildlife photography. Changing to Manual + Auto ISO was a real game changer and I have never looked back. Try and make a point to still keep an eye on your ISO within your viewfinder though and don't completely ignore it. That is the biggest mistake I made in the beginning and I often ended up with too high ISO's. With time you learn to simply lower the shutter speed or open the aperture when seeing the ISO is too high and it quickly becomes second nature ;)
I have noticed that some cameras cant operate like this, my LX5 cant use auto ISO in MANUAL mode, and nor can my G12 do this. But my g9x mark ii can. I love to shoot like that. Have any ideas have to fix this?
Good advice except that with any auto setting you are trusting that the meter will pick the right exposure. Some “matrix” or “evaluative” metering can be unpredictable. Spot, centre-weighted and average metering all can be fooled by tricky lighting conditions. Best exposure system is an experienced human brain that can make quick decisions and adjustments to shutter speed, aperture and/or ISO.
Are you a Model or a photographer.. I think you should be Infront of the camera rather than back of the camera..you are gorgeous 😍
Why would I not want to use shutter priority?
100% agree. I use this for almost every situation I shoot in, not just wildlife. Using flash often means I need to lock my ISO, but otherwise this is the way to go.
Hi there, thanks for watching! I also do use this shooting method almost exclusively for the last few years. Just switching to full manual for Astro. Have a great weekend!
In the aperture priority mode, you can set the minimum stutter speed ( this feature is available only in the mid level to higher end cameras ) in the camera and set the ISO to AUTO. In this way You can control the Aperture and still have a fast shutter speed. What I am trying to say is that You dont have to be in the Manual mode only, for wildlife photography.
Canon 70D. I shoot birds in Manual Mode with Auto ISO. I can bracket my exposures. Bracketing works, but only 1/3 of my photos are what I want. Is Canon 70D capable of over exposing (or underexposing) every shot in Manual Mode with Auto ISO?
keep in mind than bracketing and exposure compensation are two different things. Bracketing basically tells the camera to take three different pictures: one with the settings that you have dialed in, one underexposed and another one overexposed. Instead, exposure compensation applies on all the images that you are taking with a given setting.
I always shoot birds Manual mode with Auto ISO and ( - 1 step) exposure compensation
One can shoot with auto iso in Aperture priority as well
Hi Saranathan. Thanks for watching and engaging. Yes Auto ISO with Aperture priority is possible too, however I found the trouble with that is that the camera might select a too slow shutter speed, to prioritize a lower ISO. In wildlife photography that might ruin the shot, unless you also select a Min shutter speed in the Auto ISO menu.
jepp, mat Sinn. So mach ich es inzwischen auch. Noise kriegt man im Post einfacher weg als motion blur. Wie ernst ist 3200 ISO als maximal Wert denn gemeint? Kommt man auch mit 6400 weg?
Ohne deine Kamera zu kennen ist dies nicht zu beantworten. Aber wie sie richtig sagte, die Kameras welche in den letzten 2-3 Jahren auf den Markt kamen, können fast alle relativ gut mit Werten um 3'200 ISO umgehen (Je mehr Megapixel die Kamera hat, desto heikler sind sie in der Regel). Alles darüber ist Russisch Roulette und müsste wie sie sagte für deine Kamera und auch deinen persönlichen Geschmack, ausprobiert werden. Man kann nicht von anderen erwarten, dass sie einem die geeigneten Werte frei Haus liefern ... bissel eigener Einsatz muss schon sein ;-) Viel Spass und gutes Gelingen ...
Hi Thomas. Danke fuer deine Anfrage. Wie xeropaga81 bereits beschrieben hat, liegt es einerseitz an deiner Kamera und zum Anderen an deinem persoenlichen Geschmack. Mit meiner Kamera habe ich keine Scheu auch auf ISO 6400 zu schiessen, wenn das Objekt nah genug ist. Wenn man viel hinterher noch ausschneiden muss dann sieht man das Bildrauschen ziemlich deutlich. Welche Kamera hast du denn?
I wonder if you ever need to just throw it into Program mode for the sake of swiftness.