Yeah, I didn't know what you were talking about until he kept putting his hand around them and then pulling it away. I was like "ahhh! Just squeeze it!"
Thank you. That's the best explanation I have ever heard. I have never quite understood the difference, now I do. I didn't know what mode I used, now I know it is mode B. Thanks.
Having worked with keyer logic a few decades ago, the mode B has a memory for the alternate element. It remembers the paddle was depressed during the opposite element. It allows you to cleanly "lead" the sending and therefore get the perfect timing that the keyer generates. Note that most radios have mode B built into their keyers, some can be selected to mode A but many cannot. So mode B is probably the one to study. Or forget iambic and use single lever technique even on iambic paddles. The benefits of iambic are a pretty small return on investment.
So, when might you want to use mode A or mode B? If you are like me, you will prefer mode B if you are using an iambic paddle as a squeeze key-for example squeezing once for the letter C. You will prefer mode A if you are using an iambic paddle as you would a single lever paddle, for example moving the paddle back and forth four times for the letter C. You might wonder why anyone would ever want to use mode A, when you can send the letters C, R, and a few others much more efficiently in B mode. The answer is that while mode B is slightly more efficient, it isn't necessarily more precise and precision is superior to efficiency. Whether mode B is less precise for you is an open question and depends a lot on how fast you want to send. Paradoxically, giving up a bit of efficiency in exchange for precision might actually allow you to send faster, especially at speeds of 25 wpm and up. Try them both and decide for yourself. 73, W0CP
With mode B, EVERY letter, except P, can be sent with a single squeeze. The only difference is in the timing of when you push and release each paddle. Except for P, where you actually have to push the dit (thumb) paddle twice, it is a single motion. Once you get it, it is a joy to do.
Actually Morse code was very sophisticated for its day. In an ideal world one dash is equal to three dot. Morse reasoned the more dots and dashes that represented each letter the longer the message would take to send, so he identified the most common letter used in the English language, - the letter E = one dot, second most common the letter I = two dots, the letter S = 3 dots, the letter T = one dash. In our modern world of high speed automation with 5,7, 8, 16 and 32 bit data we shouldn't forget the ingenuity of our ancestors....
Paddles are great tech for morse ragchewing, or contesting them callsigns to the books, but a straight key is just nice and simple, you can chat a bit, but gets kinda sketchy above 13 wpm. Most radios seem to be adapted, have iambic modules built in and have a stereo morse plug in back or face. It is a nice mode for 3am because you are not in disk jockey voice or worse, the mic-eating-whisper method. Find an old stereo equilizer with a headphone jack and really smooth out the tone to audio bent neon pulses, on recieve.
Thanks for this easy to understand explanation of the iambic keyer and the modes. I had wondered if one could be used the same as the single paddle keyer.
Yep. Just don't squeeze. I love my N3ZN paddle but I do tend to use the single paddle key most of the time because I just like the offset of the finger pieces.
Hi. For the "C" in Mode A you don't have to touch the DIT Paddle twice. You only toches each paddle one time and let the IAMBIC-Funktion do the work. You only had to stop the C (and others likewise) at the right time. Easy, isn't it? I do the C (and opposides) with _one_ Grip in Mode A. And, what I missed in your film: How you key an "A" in Mode B. Its more difficult with the timing. A tick to long on the DASH and you have a "R". Cheers, Mike, DF2OK
Morse is a delight. Iambic keying reduces my physical effort and improves my timing. It doesn't seem at all complicated to me. In fact, my mind isn't really engaged; it's all muscle memory. So there's no thought that could be complicated, "the hell" or otherwise. I'm not saying that iambic keying is better. I'm saying I prefer it, and that it is not complicated.
2:52 No! In mode A, the letter R does NOT require an extra stroke. You just need to squeeze the paddles a bit longer! 3:14 Same for letter C in mode A, just squeeze both paddles long enough starting with the one on the right!
Well I have two straight keys and a keyer and I'm still trying to learn this - actually it does get a bit exciting once the code starts to sink in the brain and you get to watch a video like this. The Vibroflex key he's using on the right - I'd love to own one, but the cost at the moment is holding me back. It's the original digital mode of communication and it still works where the rest can crumble ;)
I understand there is a point this may make sense to me... I just still cant wrap my head around not only memorizing the code- but moistening how I tap the paddles to successfully key said code
Just picked one up today. Can I just plug into my TS-820S and start sending or do I need an electronic controller interface between the rig and keyer? My Kenwood 820 manual doesn't give me any guidance in terms of how to wire it. My manual only shows wiring for a straight key.
The TS-820S doesn't appear to have a built-in keyer, so you'll need to send the paddles through an external keyer and route it's output to the key jack of your transceiver.
I just purchased a n3zn qrp key from ebay. It's almost like yours but it's an older model made in 2008. The base is the same size square but is twice as thick and it's all made of brass. I'm just learning cw and I think this key will motivate me to work harder. It is a very nice key. How do you like yours. Thanks for the video. I read your blog often. Jeff
At what speed do you reach the diminishing returns? That is: when does the dit become so short that your window of opportunity to follow it with or insert a dah becomes so small that you get miskeys rather than dit-dah? I'm new to all of this so I may be raising an issue that is, in fact, of no consequence. I am curious, however, as I'm considering going this route rather than a straight key. Given the cost of the key set as well as the keyer, will I grow out of the equipment's iambic capabilities at 15 or 20 WPM?
In a recent QRZ poll there was a slight preference for mode B over A, but the majority of responses said they did not squeeze key, meaning they did not employ either iambic mode. Personally, I find diminishing returns over 27 wpm. I use a manual key (either straight key or bug) in about half my QSOs because I'm generally just talking rather than contesting. I will generally match the other operator in a QSO, so if they are going slow with a straight key, so will I. If they are running 25 wpm with a paddle, I will follow that. If they are swinging a bug, I will do so as well. Variety makes it fun. However, don't start out with a bug. When I use an electronic keyer, I have 3 paddles on the desk (as well as 3 different keyers). Two of the paddles on the desk are single lever paddles. So I personally make very little use of iambic keying.
Diminishing returns in terms of what? Operators use squeeze keys to 60 wpm, which is about the fastest a human can copy. After that the problem isn't the key anyway. Few operators carry on a QSO above 40 wpm. Once you're there you'll know which key and style of key best suits your fist. From what I read, being nowhere close to copying that fast myself though I can send pretty fast, operators are divided on what works best, agreeing only that it's a matter of personal preference. Whatever style you like, the quality of the key matters, The Kent is reliable and probably the least expensive for a great key, easily competing with keys twice its price or more. Begalis are universally lauded. Many like the N3ZN. You want one that adjusts to your favorite touch (most like it light), and stays set where you put it. Many like magnetic return, but I have a Kent that uses springs and it is very reliable and fast.
Most modern transceivers have a built in iambic keyer. It varies whether the built-in keyer supports mode A or B or both. My Ten-Tec Eagle only supports Mode-B which started me down the path of using external keyers. Read your transceiver manual to determine how to practice using the sidetone without transmitting.
It seems hard enough to learn CW, that’s even more thought process. Those Pico paddles are nice for portability. But seems I’m going to have to start with a straight key.
"Duel paddle" versus "Dual paddle"... Sounds like an interesting video series. As far as learning to send Morse, my preference was a straight key. Everyone learns differently, so if you have the opportunity to try both go for it and see which seems more natural. Some people don't have good intrinsic timing which makes learning to use a manual key rather than a paddle with a keyer tough.
Glad to hear. I know that when I first started learning the modes really confused me. I got a Ten-Tec Eagle that only supported Mode-B in the internal keyer and it was driving me nuts until I figured it out.
I began with a straight key, then went to a dual paddle. The last paddle I purchased was the 1961 Vibrokeyer single paddle. Learning on it would have probably been simpler but would have presented problems when trying to use an IAMBIC key.
Hey there, very interesting video! I'm a new ham and I'm finishing to learn the code..just a few letter remains! Can you please tell me the model of the jambic key? It's very nice! Thank you very much! 73 de IU4IBC
I am having to retrain cw to right hand with early Parkinson like issue. Side keyer seems to fit the need as straight just makes hand shake. Interesting I like Iambic better but money says free side swipe wins!
Never use iambic paddle! It is strictly forbidden for beginners! High speed telegraphers use one lever pedal ONLY! It's simply impossible to send Morse code at very high speeds using iambic keying.
I agree with Andras, Iambic is nice but after switching to a straight key, my CW sending sharpened dramatically. I know this isn't the point of the vid but just trying to help fellow CW neophytes. 73 N0GB
Huh? What do you consider high speed? I’ve seen operators run well over 40 wpm with iambic paddles/keyers. I’ll agree with your opinion that beginners shouldn’t start with them, but the rest of your comment - particularly your use of “never” and “impossible” is rubbish.
@K3BBG Incorrect. MANY high-speed telegraphers use single-lever paddles, which is what Andras was referring to, not straight keys. If you ask around you will also find many seasoned CW operators who say their accuracy AND speed went up when they switched from dual-lever paddles to single.
Who else was saying “Squeeze the freakin paddles already!” 😂
Yeah, I didn't know what you were talking about until he kept putting his hand around them and then pulling it away. I was like "ahhh! Just squeeze it!"
Wasn't the suspense killing you? Lol
Thank you. That's the best explanation I have ever heard. I have never quite understood the difference, now I do. I didn't know what mode I used, now I know it is mode B. Thanks.
I'm glad it was useful.
Yeah, my paddle is set up for mode B too and I didn't even know.
Having worked with keyer logic a few decades ago, the mode B has a memory for the alternate element. It remembers the paddle was depressed during the opposite element. It allows you to cleanly "lead" the sending and therefore get the perfect timing that the keyer generates. Note that most radios have mode B built into their keyers, some can be selected to mode A but many cannot. So mode B is probably the one to study. Or forget iambic and use single lever technique even on iambic paddles. The benefits of iambic are a pretty small return on investment.
iambic makes me nuts.
So, when might you want to use mode A or mode B? If you are like me, you will prefer mode B if you are using an iambic paddle as a squeeze key-for example squeezing once for the letter C. You will prefer mode A if you are using an iambic paddle as you would a single lever paddle, for example moving the paddle back and forth four times for the letter C. You might wonder why anyone would ever want to use mode A, when you can send the letters C, R, and a few others much more efficiently in B mode. The answer is that while mode B is slightly more efficient, it isn't necessarily more precise and precision is superior to efficiency. Whether mode B is less precise for you is an open question and depends a lot on how fast you want to send. Paradoxically, giving up a bit of efficiency in exchange for precision might actually allow you to send faster, especially at speeds of 25 wpm and up. Try them both and decide for yourself. 73, W0CP
With mode B, EVERY letter, except P, can be sent with a single squeeze. The only difference is in the timing of when you push and release each paddle. Except for P, where you actually have to push the dit (thumb) paddle twice, it is a single motion. Once you get it, it is a joy to do.
The letter "C" in mode A is dah, squeeze, release. Not "moving the paddle back and forth four times".
Actually Morse code was very sophisticated for its day. In an ideal world one dash is equal to three dot. Morse reasoned the more dots and dashes that represented each letter the longer the message would take to send, so he identified the most common letter used in the English language, - the letter E = one dot, second most common the letter I = two dots, the letter S = 3 dots, the letter T = one dash. In our modern world of high speed automation with 5,7, 8, 16 and 32 bit data we shouldn't forget the ingenuity of our ancestors....
Paddles are great tech for morse ragchewing, or contesting them callsigns to the books, but a straight key is just nice and simple, you can chat a bit, but gets kinda sketchy above 13 wpm. Most radios seem to be adapted, have iambic modules built in and have a stereo morse plug in back or face. It is a nice mode for 3am because you are not in disk jockey voice or worse, the mic-eating-whisper method. Find an old stereo equilizer with a headphone jack and really smooth out the tone to audio bent neon pulses, on recieve.
I never could get used to these things and still use a straight key and love it!
QSL, I am trying a side swipe I made today. I was here to see the thumb being the "da".
Thanks for this easy to understand explanation of the iambic keyer and the modes. I had wondered if one could be used the same as the single paddle keyer.
Yep. Just don't squeeze. I love my N3ZN paddle but I do tend to use the single paddle key most of the time because I just like the offset of the finger pieces.
1:56
Subtitle: "AAAAAAAAAAAAAAA"
No
Hi. For the "C" in Mode A you don't have to touch the DIT Paddle twice. You only toches each paddle one time and let the IAMBIC-Funktion do the work. You only had to stop the C (and others likewise) at the right time. Easy, isn't it? I do the C (and opposides) with _one_ Grip in Mode A. And, what I missed in your film: How you key an "A" in Mode B. Its more difficult with the timing. A tick to long on the DASH and you have a "R". Cheers, Mike, DF2OK
Good info. Thank you.
Morse is a delight. It's simple. Iambic seeks to complicate the hell out of it. Give me a straight key or a bug any day.
Morse is a delight. Iambic keying reduces my physical effort and improves my timing. It doesn't seem at all complicated to me. In fact, my mind isn't really engaged; it's all muscle memory. So there's no thought that could be complicated, "the hell" or otherwise. I'm not saying that iambic keying is better. I'm saying I prefer it, and that it is not complicated.
TNX for explanation. I did not know the difference between A and B mode.
2:52 No! In mode A, the letter R does NOT require an extra stroke. You just need to squeeze the paddles a bit longer! 3:14 Same for letter C in mode A, just squeeze both paddles long enough starting with the one on the right!
Rob, thank you for the correction.
Excellent tutorial!
Who else doesn’t have a Morse code telegraph but still watches this
Well I have two straight keys and a keyer and I'm still trying to learn this - actually it does get a bit exciting once the code starts to sink in the brain and you get to watch a video like this. The Vibroflex key he's using on the right - I'd love to own one, but the cost at the moment is holding me back. It's the original digital mode of communication and it still works where the rest can crumble ;)
Outerealm then y u reply
Me
Lovely clear presentation of the differences. Now I know! Thank you.
OMFG SQUEEZE IT ALREADY!!!!
THE SUSPENSE IS KILLING ME!!!!
WTFF???
I understand there is a point this may make sense to me... I just still cant wrap my head around not only memorizing the code- but moistening how I tap the paddles to successfully key said code
Just picked one up today. Can I just plug into my TS-820S and start sending or do I need an electronic controller interface between the rig and keyer? My Kenwood 820 manual doesn't give me any guidance in terms of how to wire it. My manual only shows wiring for a straight key.
The TS-820S doesn't appear to have a built-in keyer, so you'll need to send the paddles through an external keyer and route it's output to the key jack of your transceiver.
I just purchased a n3zn qrp key from ebay. It's almost like yours but it's an older model made in 2008. The base is the same size square but is twice as thick and it's all made of brass. I'm just learning cw and I think this key will motivate me to work harder. It is a very nice key. How do you like yours. Thanks for the video. I read your blog often.
Jeff
I enjoy my N3ZN. A wonderfully made piece of the kit, and the builder is a wonderful guy.
At what speed do you reach the diminishing returns? That is: when does the dit become so short that your window of opportunity to follow it with or insert a dah becomes so small that you get miskeys rather than dit-dah? I'm new to all of this so I may be raising an issue that is, in fact, of no consequence. I am curious, however, as I'm considering going this route rather than a straight key. Given the cost of the key set as well as the keyer, will I grow out of the equipment's iambic capabilities at 15 or 20 WPM?
In a recent QRZ poll there was a slight preference for mode B over A, but the majority of responses said they did not squeeze key, meaning they did not employ either iambic mode. Personally, I find diminishing returns over 27 wpm. I use a manual key (either straight key or bug) in about half my QSOs because I'm generally just talking rather than contesting. I will generally match the other operator in a QSO, so if they are going slow with a straight key, so will I. If they are running 25 wpm with a paddle, I will follow that. If they are swinging a bug, I will do so as well. Variety makes it fun. However, don't start out with a bug.
When I use an electronic keyer, I have 3 paddles on the desk (as well as 3 different keyers). Two of the paddles on the desk are single lever paddles. So I personally make very little use of iambic keying.
@@HamRadioQRP Thanks for that information. And for the video, as well. Very useful.
Diminishing returns in terms of what? Operators use squeeze keys to 60 wpm, which is about the fastest a human can copy. After that the problem isn't the key anyway. Few operators carry on a QSO above 40 wpm. Once you're there you'll know which key and style of key best suits your fist. From what I read, being nowhere close to copying that fast myself though I can send pretty fast, operators are divided on what works best, agreeing only that it's a matter of personal preference.
Whatever style you like, the quality of the key matters, The Kent is reliable and probably the least expensive for a great key, easily competing with keys twice its price or more. Begalis are universally lauded. Many like the N3ZN. You want one that adjusts to your favorite touch (most like it light), and stays set where you put it. Many like magnetic return, but I have a Kent that uses springs and it is very reliable and fast.
Thanks for sharing this very interesting stuff
Do transceivers handle iambic keying or are keyers required ?
Most modern transceivers have a built in iambic keyer. It varies whether the built-in keyer supports mode A or B or both. My Ten-Tec Eagle only supports Mode-B which started me down the path of using external keyers.
Read your transceiver manual to determine how to practice using the sidetone without transmitting.
It seems hard enough to learn CW, that’s even more thought process. Those Pico paddles are nice for portability. But seems I’m going to have to start with a straight key.
Everyone is a bit different but straight key was easier for me to learn with. The Pico paddle is great for radio backpacking operation.
Thanks for the explanation!
#HAMradioQRP Awesome video
Question:
Is a duel paddle a greater method of learning Morse?
"Duel paddle" versus "Dual paddle"... Sounds like an interesting video series. As far as learning to send Morse, my preference was a straight key. Everyone learns differently, so if you have the opportunity to try both go for it and see which seems more natural. Some people don't have good intrinsic timing which makes learning to use a manual key rather than a paddle with a keyer tough.
For someone that has a longer sequence of names than an aristocrat, you'd think that a dictionary was in your education somewhere!😁 Just teasing.
Listening to you voice, any chance you also make calculator videos?
Haha. No, but I do enjoy watching Slide Ruler videos and practicing calculations using different models.
Thanks!
Nice and informative on the difference. I learned. Tnx N1ILC
Very informative though, thanks for that.
Glad to hear. I know that when I first started learning the modes really confused me. I got a Ten-Tec Eagle that only supported Mode-B in the internal keyer and it was driving me nuts until I figured it out.
The one thing I like about the paddles is it’s a set dit and a set dah. Where with a straight key you determine the length of the dits and dahs.
Just learning Morse... What's easier to learn on dual paddle or single lever traditional?
I began with a straight key, then went to a dual paddle. The last paddle I purchased was the 1961 Vibrokeyer single paddle. Learning on it would have probably been simpler but would have presented problems when trying to use an IAMBIC key.
Hey there, very interesting video! I'm a new ham and I'm finishing to learn the code..just a few letter remains! Can you please tell me the model of the jambic key? It's very nice! Thank you very much! 73 de IU4IBC
+Stefano Negrini It is a N3ZN QRP paddle. www.n3znkeys.com
HamRadioQRP thanks!
I am having to retrain cw to right hand with early Parkinson like issue. Side keyer seems to fit the need as straight just makes hand shake. Interesting I like Iambic better but money says free side swipe wins!
Clear & concise, THANKS!
73 de 2E0HJN
interesting.
If this is beginning I'm fuked cos I haven't a clue what you were talking about
Never use iambic paddle! It is strictly forbidden for beginners! High speed telegraphers use one lever pedal ONLY! It's simply impossible to send Morse code at very high speeds using iambic keying.
I agree with Andras, Iambic is nice but after switching to a straight key, my CW sending sharpened dramatically. I know this isn't the point of the vid but just trying to help fellow CW neophytes. 73 N0GB
Huh? What do you consider high speed? I’ve seen operators run well over 40 wpm with iambic paddles/keyers. I’ll agree with your opinion that beginners shouldn’t start with them, but the rest of your comment - particularly your use of “never” and “impossible” is rubbish.
@K3BBG Incorrect. MANY high-speed telegraphers use single-lever paddles, which is what Andras was referring to, not straight keys. If you ask around you will also find many seasoned CW operators who say their accuracy AND speed went up when they switched from dual-lever paddles to single.
A straight key will give you RSI. Iambic paddles prevent that.
More than a hundred years of sending Morse code and people want to change it.
More than 50 years of tube radios and people wanted to change that, too. :)
@@bkvdpw Yeah, and the hundred million that have tubes can make a choice. Change the code and you have chaos. Duhhh. Did you vote for hillary?
@@BirdWhisperer46 That's a bit of a non sequitur but, hey . . . thanks for playing.
Danke für das tolle Video.73,de Jozef OE1CJG.😊😊😊