Nice video 👍. I highly recommend wheel swap/tire.I have a STOCK 2.0t sport, I swapped out my sport wheels for some 19x9.5 aodhan wheels. They are 12 pounds lighter each than stock. I noticed the car gets better mpg around town and faster acceleration and stoping. Also I like the idea of returning your car to stock tune 👌
That’s not bad but I think if you’re looking for quick 0-60 times and good 60 foot times to go with a 17 inch wheel and get some more meat on them. A 17x9 or 17x9.5 for the fronts only will be what I’m doing at some point.
I run the continental extreme contact sport in a 245/45R17 on my 18 EX-L. I have some niche DFS M223 17x8 +40 wheels and they hook second gear pretty well. It was a massive upgrade from the OE tires and the wider tire looks much better and are much lighter then stock.
The OE tires are garbage. The average performing all-season tires I have on now was a huge improvement. I can’t imagine what some UHP summer tires will feel like 😮
Boost by gear is your solution I don’t know that much about your model but that’s what I’ve put on my old Honda and it was through the aftermarket ECU tuning
i would suggest lighter wheels and wider tires are a game changer, and at least a 6speed honda upper motor mount. i’m running 21lbs wheels on my sport and she really grabs being fbo and phearable tuned. oem wheels are like dragging a boat anchor. thank you for all you contribute to the 10th gen application.
@@TheLemonFactor you may be surprised how different it feels accelerating even if you are not experiencing wheel hop, which is kind of surprising considering your set up and dyno numbers. For the price of both upper and rear and the ease of install, I could see you making a favorable review video of them
@@TheLemonFactor I wouldn't just get just one as all the vibration will be transferred to the lower stock mount and cause it to wear extremely fast. One guy destroyed his steering rack and trans as he did not change the lower mount as well.
Put stiffer springs in the rear to stop the weight shifting off the front tyres on hard launches. Keep more of the weight where it's needed for traction.
That is a good idea! However, we already have stiffer aftermarket springs on the car 🤷♂️. We’ll see how much our new high performance summer tires help improve the traction… as soon as I finish breaking them in 👍
Good video. The 1st thing I did was install Continental Extreme Contact sport tires and light wheels and then the programmer running 93 octane Ethanol free gas. These tires make a huge difference to me. They remind me of my Hoosier R7 race tires on my road racing car.
I don't remember what wheels they weigh in at 16lbs each. I have the EX-L, so the are small then the 19". I kept it looking all stock looking so people won't really notice. Even with this very stick tires it still is very easy to break them loose at will. Remember roll into the throttle when passing!
@@TheLemonFactor for my 10th gen I went with Titan-7 TS5 18x9.5 +40 265/40 Federals RSR PROS. The 265/40 18 gives the closest overall diameter to the stock.
Good choice on tires that will help tremendously. Yes I know they are light. The ones on my retire race car are 18×10 and weigh it at 18bs and my old Hoosier 275/38/18 weigh in at 20lbs each
I've been running phearable 3 for almost a year now. The best thing about it is not speed or 0 to 60 times, it's that it is very stable. My knock is always at .49 no matter how hard I pull or how many times. It's also very good gas mileage. It's a great overall tune for the engine. It does target a bit too much boost down low but if you know how to drive its not a problem.
I don’t think you watched the entire video 🤔. My K.cont values were increasing with every pull. While on the street it’s fine, during 0-60 and 1/4 mile pulls they begin to jump. Caveat, it could be my unique situation, high altitude and 91 octane 🤷♂️
@@TheLemonFactor yeah, phearable is 93 only, it states so in the instructions. So that'll definitely screw it up. The octane needs to be right, it's crucial. If you have bad 93 from a bad gas station that can mess it up too. It also depends on mods, and a lot of other factors, such as general condition of the engine and wear, how stable your knock is.
We do lose ~20% horsepower here at altitude! If you go to the channel playlist I have a video in which I tested the 0-60mph stock at altitude that you can compare to the magazine numbers. With that said, I'd say we lose ~0.5s 0-60 here in Denver.
My 9th gen kcount goes to .6-.85 if I’m above 130. I’ve never had any issues there so I wouldn’t worry too much until it gets above 1.0 especially if it’s only spiking to that. Have you thought about trying a tune from derek robinson and comparing it to pherable? I’m sure this will be upgrades in the future but do you plan on putting in either the type r turbo, p600 or mhi turbo?
A proper tune will keep it low regardless of the speeds or gear. I don’t mind, maybe 0.7s, but would not mess around with anything higher, for longevity and to ensure clean power delivery. We’re testing the OTS Phearable Stage 3 here to see what it’s limits are. We’ll progress to a custom tune in the future. 👍
Anyone know the weight of the stock rims? Also Chad maybe a lighter rim maybe even a 18 or 17's? Less rolling mass? Of course sport tires to go with them. These 19's look nice but heavy I imagine
Great video, Chad. Did you have Advanced VSA enabled in ktuner? I found this helps quite a bit with wheel spin. I have mine set at Light Ignition/Moderate Throttle pullback. Most tuners say don't use Aggressive Ignition pullback as it messes with the timing too much.
@@TheLemonFactor Phearable recommends not having Advanced VSA enabled with his Stage 3 tune. Something about boost not being fully utilised. Dan Villa has a video about this issue.
@@williamduong3742 from what I understand phearable and Dan Vila both said to leave the tune as is before flashing do not make any adjustments to vsa just leave as default as tune is off the shelf.
@@stonehouseguitars3869 Thats what I understood as well. In the email that John sent me for my Stage 3 tune, he stated not to mess with VSA. However, I did change my throttle response and throttle dampening to factory. I also took off early spool at the suggestion of others. I enjoy the settings that I have now though I meant enable early spool in the future just for alittle more low end power.
@@williamduong3742 I left the early spool enabled. I noticed it makes the turbo flutter strangely if you hit boost at too low of an RPM. From what I understand hitting boost at low RPMs is not good for this engine design. I may disable it in future. But for now I just try not to hit boost down low. That way it still spools faster when needed.
Hi Chad, just asking for an update, how are the Eibach ProKit springs doing? I have a 19 touring and am interested in them as I am about to downgrade to 18” rims and would like to eliminate some wheel gap.
Do you notice any wheel hop when it shifts? I was never able to do 0-60 runs because the engine would literally move and stall for a second then lurch and continue forward. I had to get hasport mounts now that issue is fixed. It didn’t help my 60 foot times but it helped keep the engine in place at the expense of some vibrations Idle.
Yo boss! Very off topic question. I have a catless downpipe i want to install, would I be causing any damage to my vehicle if i install my downpipe then a week or two later get my phereable stage 3 tune?
With a car less downpipe you’re going to throw some codes that you can use the KTuner to disable for. But if you have the KTuner and you’re simply asking if you can install the downpipe before putting a tune on the car, then yes you should be ok.
Can anyone help with some advice? I have a 2019 Honda Accord Touring 2.0T that had the B1 codes pop up in early June. I replaced the oil and filter and rotated the tires between June 24 and June 30. I had the A13 codes come on earlier this week. I’ve never replaced the transmission fluid, since I never had that code come up. Should I be concerned or is this normal? Can I just reset the A1 codes since it has only been over a month since replacing the oil and filter and rotating the tires? Thank you for any help anyone can provide.
I appreciate your videos Chad! I do wish I had more patience to wait for them lol, I’m bummed about the HV DP not really shining the way I had hoped. Any chance flex fuel kit is in the near future? Thanks again for the content!!
Yes, the DP was an expensive disappointment 😔 but, hey, now we know 🤷♂️. Flex Fuel is in the future - it’s actually sitting on my desk 😉. However, I’m going to do a couple other things first, including a good set of sticky tires 👍😁
@@TheLemonFactor A air-flow engineer explained to me that if there is no restriction in the current setup, bigger inlet or exhaust will not provide any real improvement. It looks like Honda did a pretty good job.
@@TheLemonFactor Do you happen to know it this is a new gen for the flex fuel? I feel like I asked before and I thought you mentioned you were waiting on a new version with I believe upgraded fuel lines.
Have you talked with Derek Robinson (IMW) at all regarding your KCon readings? This topic has come up in the Accord groups and he has more or less said that anything less than 1.40 is pretty much OK. Don't want to put words in his mouth if that wasn't what he meant but I feel that was the jist of his comment. *Update: I correct myself in the comments. This is not what Derek actually said FYI.
@@TheLemonFactor So I definitely misspoke but I did find the post after some searching and hears what he actually said: "The upper ceiling is 1.40+. Some movement of the control value is usually nothing of concern. The Knock Control logic is fast to pull timing and slow to give it back." I've got a bad memory lol.
I was having the same problem as you. I was using ktuner and k.cont always goes up and down. I said let's try hondata. You want to know what happened. It's now steady at .55 all the time.
Your k.cont is a reflection of the tune and how it’s reacting to the gas you’re using, environmental conditions and driving inputs, not the tuning device. What you may be trying to say is that the Hondata OTS tune is more stable than the KTuner OTS tune?
Hi, I did some experiments just like you. With ktuner and tsp tune my k.cont was going up and down. Even with base maps on ktuner I got the same results. I use the same gas station and 91 all the time. I just recently got a hondata and been doing data logs and my k.cont stay low. If I drive hard it goes to .58 max. I was shocked. I went ahead and bought tsp tune for $80 for my hondata and all good too. Now I going to sell my ktuner. Maybe just try and see your results. If it doesn't work for you it's no problem selling those mods. I was really surprise. I wish I knew the reason why. Maybe you could figure it out.
A custom tune is certainly going to be better than an OTS tune 👍. However, not everyone is going to go that route. Let’s test our various mods in order to identify the good and the bad so people can decide what options they have and what will work for them 👍😁
Nice video 👍. I highly recommend wheel swap/tire.I have a STOCK 2.0t sport, I swapped out my sport wheels for some 19x9.5 aodhan wheels. They are 12 pounds lighter each than stock. I noticed the car gets better mpg around town and faster acceleration and stoping. Also I like the idea of returning your car to stock tune 👌
I think you’re right! 👍. Now the difficult decision of picking a set of new, lightweight rims 🤔🤷♂️
That’s not bad but I think if you’re looking for quick 0-60 times and good 60 foot times to go with a 17 inch wheel and get some more meat on them. A 17x9 or 17x9.5 for the fronts only will be what I’m doing at some point.
Engine mounts/sticky tires are very important, I learned it the hard way!😅
I run the continental extreme contact sport in a 245/45R17 on my 18 EX-L. I have some niche DFS M223 17x8 +40 wheels and they hook second gear pretty well. It was a massive upgrade from the OE tires and the wider tire looks much better and are much lighter then stock.
The OE tires are garbage. The average performing all-season tires I have on now was a huge improvement. I can’t imagine what some UHP summer tires will feel like 😮
Boost by gear is your solution I don’t know that much about your model but that’s what I’ve put on my old Honda and it was through the aftermarket ECU tuning
I’m sure that could help, but I think I’ll try some high performance tires first before hand.
i would suggest lighter wheels and wider tires are a game changer, and at least a 6speed honda upper motor mount. i’m running 21lbs wheels on my sport and she really grabs being fbo and phearable tuned. oem wheels are like dragging a boat anchor. thank you for all you contribute to the 10th gen application.
We need better grip before going after more power 😉👍
Maybe try to get hasport 62a mounts, have the same build helps a lot keeping the front of the car down
I may. However, motor mounts help with wheel hop, which I’m not experiencing. I’m sure it helps some.
@@TheLemonFactor you may be surprised how different it feels accelerating even if you are not experiencing wheel hop, which is kind of surprising considering your set up and dyno numbers. For the price of both upper and rear and the ease of install, I could see you making a favorable review video of them
I’m tempted, but may start with the upper. It won’t be worth it to me personally if it introduces any additional NVH.
@@TheLemonFactor understandable. I saw someone mention that hasport says the rear mount does most of the work
@@TheLemonFactor I wouldn't just get just one as all the vibration will be transferred to the lower stock mount and cause it to wear extremely fast. One guy destroyed his steering rack and trans as he did not change the lower mount as well.
Put stiffer springs in the rear to stop the weight shifting off the front tyres on hard launches.
Keep more of the weight where it's needed for traction.
That is a good idea! However, we already have stiffer aftermarket springs on the car 🤷♂️. We’ll see how much our new high performance summer tires help improve the traction… as soon as I finish breaking them in 👍
Your idea sounds great!
😁👍. What would you recommend?
Good video. The 1st thing I did was install Continental Extreme Contact sport tires and light wheels and then the programmer running 93 octane Ethanol free gas. These tires make a huge difference to me. They remind me of my Hoosier R7 race tires on my road racing car.
Definitely need stickier tires if I want to improve upon the 0-60mph sprint, and 1/4 mile times👍. What rims and size tires did you go with?
I don't remember what wheels they weigh in at 16lbs each. I have the EX-L, so the are small then the 19". I kept it looking all stock looking so people won't really notice. Even with this very stick tires it still is very easy to break them loose at will. Remember roll into the throttle when passing!
@@TheLemonFactor for my 10th gen I went with Titan-7 TS5 18x9.5 +40 265/40 Federals RSR PROS. The 265/40 18 gives the closest overall diameter to the stock.
16lbs 😮. There are very few tires 17” or 18” that can even come close to that weight.
Good choice on tires that will help tremendously. Yes I know they are light. The ones on my retire race car are 18×10 and weigh it at 18bs and my old Hoosier 275/38/18 weigh in at 20lbs each
I've been running phearable 3 for almost a year now. The best thing about it is not speed or 0 to 60 times, it's that it is very stable. My knock is always at .49 no matter how hard I pull or how many times. It's also very good gas mileage. It's a great overall tune for the engine. It does target a bit too much boost down low but if you know how to drive its not a problem.
I don’t think you watched the entire video 🤔. My K.cont values were increasing with every pull. While on the street it’s fine, during 0-60 and 1/4 mile pulls they begin to jump. Caveat, it could be my unique situation, high altitude and 91 octane 🤷♂️
@@TheLemonFactor yeah, phearable is 93 only, it states so in the instructions. So that'll definitely screw it up. The octane needs to be right, it's crucial. If you have bad 93 from a bad gas station that can mess it up too. It also depends on mods, and a lot of other factors, such as general condition of the engine and wear, how stable your knock is.
Phearable offers a 91 octane tune for their Stage 3 - you specify it when you purchase.
Great video, I’ve been looking forward to this! Just wanted to ask, how do you think the numbers would have looked like at sea level? Thanks!
Good question! I estimate that I'm probably 0.5sec slower in the 0-60mph than I would be if I were at sea-level.
👍looking forward to seeing what tires you get and how much they help with 0-60🏎
Me too 😉
Chad, can you do a video on changing transmission fluid for the 10spd auto? I can't find a good tutorial anywhere
I’m sure I will when the time comes to change it 👍
Curious what this would do at sea level, I'm up here in Colorado too and this elevation definitely kills some gains haha.
We do lose ~20% horsepower here at altitude! If you go to the channel playlist I have a video in which I tested the 0-60mph stock at altitude that you can compare to the magazine numbers. With that said, I'd say we lose ~0.5s 0-60 here in Denver.
My 9th gen kcount goes to .6-.85 if I’m above 130. I’ve never had any issues there so I wouldn’t worry too much until it gets above 1.0 especially if it’s only spiking to that. Have you thought about trying a tune from derek robinson and comparing it to pherable? I’m sure this will be upgrades in the future but do you plan on putting in either the type r turbo, p600 or mhi turbo?
A proper tune will keep it low regardless of the speeds or gear. I don’t mind, maybe 0.7s, but would not mess around with anything higher, for longevity and to ensure clean power delivery. We’re testing the OTS Phearable Stage 3 here to see what it’s limits are. We’ll progress to a custom tune in the future. 👍
Anyone know the weight of the stock rims? Also Chad maybe a lighter rim maybe even a 18 or 17's? Less rolling mass? Of course sport tires to go with them. These 19's look nice but heavy I imagine
I have the optional Honda 19” rims and they are heavy. I believe they are 53lbs with tires. I’ll make sure I weigh them when I replace them 👍
@@TheLemonFactor wow that's heavy
I’d say about 26# for the rim and another 26# for the tires. 🫤
Accord 2.0 isn't the best from a dig... but it shines with rolls for sure! Sticky tires will for sure help with traction. I recommend indy 500 :)
The Indy 500 seems to be a popular choice 👍
Tires 🛞 will be the game changer, plus a strong rear mount will be👌🏽
We’ll see how the tires work out. I’m not a fan of stiff motor mounts on my daily driver, but I may still try them 🤷♂️
@@TheLemonFactor I promise you’ll be good with just the 62a rear hasport mount. I have it myself with just the stock upper mount and it’s amazing,
I upgraded to 20inch Tsw that were an in wider and still lost 6 lbs a corner and 1 pound per tire on the general tire gmax
Did you feel any difference with the lighter weight?
Great video, Chad.
Did you have Advanced VSA enabled in ktuner?
I found this helps quite a bit with wheel spin. I have mine set at Light Ignition/Moderate Throttle pullback.
Most tuners say don't use Aggressive Ignition pullback as it messes with the timing too much.
Yes, VSA was fully enabled 👍
@@TheLemonFactor Phearable recommends not having Advanced VSA enabled with his Stage 3 tune. Something about boost not being fully utilised. Dan Villa has a video about this issue.
@@williamduong3742 from what I understand phearable and Dan Vila both said to leave the tune as is before flashing do not make any adjustments to vsa just leave as default as tune is off the shelf.
@@stonehouseguitars3869 Thats what I understood as well. In the email that John sent me for my Stage 3 tune, he stated not to mess with VSA. However, I did change my throttle response and throttle dampening to factory. I also took off early spool at the suggestion of others. I enjoy the settings that I have now though I meant enable early spool in the future just for alittle more low end power.
@@williamduong3742 I left the early spool enabled. I noticed it makes the turbo flutter strangely if you hit boost at too low of an RPM. From what I understand hitting boost at low RPMs is not good for this engine design. I may disable it in future. But for now I just try not to hit boost down low. That way it still spools faster when needed.
Hi Chad, just asking for an update, how are the Eibach ProKit springs doing? I have a 19 touring and am interested in them as I am about to downgrade to 18” rims and would like to eliminate some wheel gap.
No problems with the spring and Touring shock combo. 👍
Do you notice any wheel hop when it shifts? I was never able to do 0-60 runs because the engine would literally move and stall for a second then lurch and continue forward. I had to get hasport mounts now that issue is fixed. It didn’t help my 60 foot times but it helped keep the engine in place at the expense of some vibrations Idle.
No wheel hop at all. Definitely lose wheel traction, but the front is not skipping 👍
Yo boss! Very off topic question. I have a catless downpipe i want to install, would I be causing any damage to my vehicle if i install my downpipe then a week or two later get my phereable stage 3 tune?
With a car less downpipe you’re going to throw some codes that you can use the KTuner to disable for. But if you have the KTuner and you’re simply asking if you can install the downpipe before putting a tune on the car, then yes you should be ok.
Can anyone help with some advice? I have a 2019 Honda Accord Touring 2.0T that had the B1 codes pop up in early June. I replaced the oil and filter and rotated the tires between June 24 and June 30. I had the A13 codes come on earlier this week. I’ve never replaced the transmission fluid, since I never had that code come up. Should I be concerned or is this normal? Can I just reset the A1 codes since it has only been over a month since replacing the oil and filter and rotating the tires? Thank you for any help anyone can provide.
I appreciate your videos Chad! I do wish I had more patience to wait for them lol, I’m bummed about the HV DP not really shining the way I had hoped. Any chance flex fuel kit is in the near future? Thanks again for the content!!
Yes, the DP was an expensive disappointment 😔 but, hey, now we know 🤷♂️. Flex Fuel is in the future - it’s actually sitting on my desk 😉. However, I’m going to do a couple other things first, including a good set of sticky tires 👍😁
@@TheLemonFactor A air-flow engineer explained to me that if there is no restriction in the current setup, bigger inlet or exhaust will not provide any real improvement. It looks like Honda did a pretty good job.
@@TheLemonFactor Do you happen to know it this is a new gen for the flex fuel? I feel like I asked before and I thought you mentioned you were waiting on a new version with I believe upgraded fuel lines.
It has the upgraded fuel lines, but not the wireless capability
Have you talked with Derek Robinson (IMW) at all regarding your KCon readings? This topic has come up in the Accord groups and he has more or less said that anything less than 1.40 is pretty much OK. Don't want to put words in his mouth if that wasn't what he meant but I feel that was the jist of his comment.
*Update: I correct myself in the comments. This is not what Derek actually said FYI.
You might want to double check that 😳
@@TheLemonFactor
So I definitely misspoke but I did find the post after some searching and hears what he actually said:
"The upper ceiling is 1.40+.
Some movement of the control value is usually nothing of concern. The Knock Control logic is fast to pull timing and slow to give it back."
I've got a bad memory lol.
I don’t want to see 1.0, much less anything higher 🤪
I was having the same problem as you. I was using ktuner and k.cont always goes up and down. I said let's try hondata. You want to know what happened. It's now steady at .55 all the time.
Your k.cont is a reflection of the tune and how it’s reacting to the gas you’re using, environmental conditions and driving inputs, not the tuning device. What you may be trying to say is that the Hondata OTS tune is more stable than the KTuner OTS tune?
Hi, I did some experiments just like you. With ktuner and tsp tune my k.cont was going up and down. Even with base maps on ktuner I got the same results. I use the same gas station and 91 all the time. I just recently got a hondata and been doing data logs and my k.cont stay low. If I drive hard it goes to .58 max. I was shocked. I went ahead and bought tsp tune for $80 for my hondata and all good too. Now I going to sell my ktuner. Maybe just try and see your results. If it doesn't work for you it's no problem selling those mods. I was really surprise. I wish I knew the reason why. Maybe you could figure it out.
2:31 SSSSKKRRRRRRRRR 🚗💨💨💨 OOOUUU i love that song ☺☺☺
😂
I’d get away from the Phearable tune. Custom tune is where it’s at.
A custom tune is certainly going to be better than an OTS tune 👍. However, not everyone is going to go that route. Let’s test our various mods in order to identify the good and the bad so people can decide what options they have and what will work for them 👍😁
🌟 ｐｒｏｍｏｓｍ