Thank you, Steven. I am just a homeowner trying to understand how the system works. This is one of the best explanations I've seen on this subject. Thank you, I know I am not the only one that appreciates it. I hope that karma does its job and rewards you for your efforts. God bless you.
I have served my time as an apprentice with enthusiasm. I fully understand you can't learn it all in 5-6 years but I think it would be fair to say that not ever in one class did anyone ever offer a tutorial of this quality. It's ten years since I've been in school, a little older and wiser and I'm still hearing that this kind of teaching still does not exist. I owe any knowledge that I have at all, on these everyday controls, to this poster and the independents I've worked with or helped along the way. Please let this video inspire us all to share more knowledge about controls and stomp out the culture of ignorance that persists.. many many thanks to Steven lavimoniere, keep em comin!!
Super description and lesson. It really does help us older guys! I’m 80+ and helping my son convert from baseboard to underfloor radiant. There’s also a garage unit heater which will operate as Zone 2. Your explanation of the function of ZR and ZC were exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!
Steve i have an oil weil mclain with this aquastat. I do gas heat/sheet metal and had some experience with oil from my first job but mainly work on furnaces. Bought my first house and am having problems with my boiler not firing on low limit occasionally. Your video was a huge help and I appreciate you taking your time to explain all the terminals. I’m going to use this to replace my aquastat in the morning
I’ve been watching your videos for years now since I was a apprentice. I’m in the trade 8 years now and I must say you saved my ass on calls where I had no idea what’s going on lol also you have shown me a lot of things. I’m a journey man now with good knowledge and a good portion has come from watching your videos and applying it in the Field. Always good to re watch for refreshers especially in between seasons.
I am a union Plumber/Pipefitter in Alaska that quit my job and started my own business. I struggle with wiring and controls. I had an electrician before to depend on. Now I have to learn how to do it myself. Thanks for the video..
Thanks Steven for taking your time to make this video. I learn from you everyday. I appreciate your story helping the guy with the shower, your one of a million in technicians. You give your heart each and every day to help the customer.
Excellent description of not only how to wire the circuit, but a full explanation of the circuit and what feeds what. Great job on this Steve. I wish I had you as a teacher when I was back in tech school!
hi Steve, you gave the installer the opportunity to go back and correct his mistake. you told the customer he is a good guy. you complemented him on his work and he has the guts to call you and give you grief. he's a flipping ass####.too proud to accept his mistake. you should have taken his customer. thanks for the video, much respect from California.
Hi Steve I've been an electrician for nearly 35 yrs and I'm not to proud to learn something new and taking advice from anyone great video the drawing is self explanatory
Hey Steve, i know this a old video but i do miss these classes you are such a good mentor i have learn so much with you. thank you for everything you do.
The gentleman should not be offended, I have been working on TV's and appliance since I was 19, I am now 67. You can learned something everyday, no shame in not knowing, the shame is not knowing and not asking someone that does know... Great Video Steve
Thanks Steven! You've hooked me several times. Your great at what you do! Last year I replaced a 3 handle shower faucet with a single lever. Thanks to you instruction video I did the job including cutting the ceramic tile. The job came out mint. Thanks again!
I was trying to figure out how ZR and ZC worked a couple weeks ago since I'm trying to help a friend who's aquastat I think is going bad (keeps making clicking noises for a couple minutes sometimes before firing up) so we might replace it soon, but I couldn't find anything as clear and easy to understand as your video... so this video was great, thank you!
Really great explation on this control circuit. Thank you. Please upload more of these type of videos on control systems for us novices. Thanks again. So interesting.
Thanks Steven for explaining that. It helped me understand how to get rid of the R89A relay and put in a R845A now my burner fires when the 2nd zone calls for heat.
Nice educational video you did Steve. I think you should do something like this maybe once a month if you can find the time on different items. Thanks again.
Great video, Big help, My boiler was only wired with the ZC connect, the house heats up faster and the boiler cycles less now I have correctly connected the ZR terminal! Thank you soo much for the education!
great teaching video Steve, on the Honeywell --control and circulator.. control of many,burners circulator so boiler temp.does not fall below set point of 160 on low limit control,so water
Great videos Steve. The reverse hook up is that I want to learn more. I have main operating control is the one on your left on the beginning of your video the old style and I have the aquastat that is not hooked up to the reverse mode. So I want to hook it up the wires from aquastat to main operating control.
thanks for the knowledge steve! i just started as an apprentice and im in my last semester and ykur videos have helped me alot! thanks again and good job
Thank you for taking the time to clearly show how it should be done. You are a good teacher. Can you show us the 24v control sequencing in a gas-fired steam system that uses a vent damper, probe-type LWCO, and intermittent ignition module w/a dual solenoid gas valve? This causes a lot of novices to burn up transformers !
Nice Video. I have a boiler with the same aquastat relay as the one on the left since it has a tankless water heater but I don't use the tankless because I think the coil pipes burst before I moved into the house along with the copper pipes burst all through the house after someone didn't drain the pipes when they left the home abandoned. The boiler has 2 zones and the other zone taps directly into the outgoing hot water on the main pipe before it gets split off into 2 zones. This aquastat relay zone on the tankless runs too hot and the low and high adjustments are off quite a bit compared to the new temp gauge I put on the front of the boiler. I think it's that the temperature probe on the side aquastat has no thermal grease on it or in it. Also I noticed on your aquastat relays that the boards look to have heated up and changed color which is an indication that you have loose solder joints on the back of the board that most times just need a good resoldering. I found many cracks around the solder joints on my aquastat relay and fixed it that way instead of buying new. They seem to be known for that type of defect that's easily fixed if you don't let it arc n spark until something shorts out or burns up. Another thing on my aquastat since I don't use the tankless, does it even matter what I set the low to or how can I have the boiler just stay on for when the zone needs heat and then shut off? They wired the Circulator with a red wire to C1 and nothing on C2 as well as that same wire with white and black all going to the box on top of the burner motor that has a reset button on it. Then the wires come out of that reset box and goes to the circulator. They put the circulators on the incoming heating pipes instead of the outgoing as well. Not exactly how the manufacturer showed how it was supposed to be setup.
Thank you for the video. I have been struggling with an intermittent problem where my main zone keeps getting up to 80 degrees F even with the thermostats unwired from the aquastat. I am now going to go over all the wiring to see if it is correct and if not I'll replace the control. (Everything else except for the firebox itself has already been replaced.) Thanks again!
Hi Steven....very helpful. I just tried to replace an "A" with a "C" controller which did not work. Used the same connections. The only zone connection is to ZC for this oil burner (no connection to ZR). The low limit does not fire up the burner. I'm going to ohm out things and see if I can resolve anything there. The C model is exactly what you show in your video (to the left with the low limit). TNX Peter
Steve, I have the first control board that you're talking about. I just installed a new nest thermostat upstairs. My previous thermostat did not use the c wire so it was coiled up. I have the red white and blue wires hooked up to the thermostat. I have the red and the white wire hooked up to this board on my furnace. Where does the blue c wire go on this board? Or can it?
@@samer3310 unfortunately I haven't messed with it since I posted the comment. I since removed the nest thermostat but Google did send me the common wire adapter. I've just been too lazy to try to hook it up.
I have the same aqua stat L8148e no zone heating just a battery operated 2 wire thermostat I bought a new Honeywell 9585 smart thermostat and it requires a c wire . Could I use the tv wire at the thermostat jumper it to the c terminal to power it ?
Excellent Video, Steve there is always something new boiling under the hood and good to know, Do you have any videos of this hooked up with temper valve setup or pipe layout..Thanks..
Steve can you please make a video on setting HL, LL, and Diff. on a oil fired burner with 2 zone valves ,1 circ pump and a tank less Hw heater. Does this have to be changed during seasons or set it and forget It?
Good explanation Steve. Can you explain (in short) what the differential switch does? My sisters have good hot water, (tankless on oil boiler) but she has to turn the thermostat up 4 degrees above what it's set at to get the circulator to run. In other words, she had the stat set at 68, temp in room was 67. Circulator would not come on until she turns the stat up to 72. Is that the differential setting? I never looked at what they're set at. She had some friend come over and play with it. Any help is appreciated! You're the best!
As an introduction, can you just explain the three settings, without using a second zone. Discuss the LO HI and DIFF controls, and what you feel are the proper settings for domestic operation. Thanks
Hey Steve...can I wire my new outdoor wood boiler to my existing indoor thermostat...if I can please explain...like your channel and watch all the time...oh and pet miss molly and baby the dog for me...lol
Thank you for this!! We have the 2nd controller you have there for our old boiler system - it's a honeywell L8148J. I can't for the life of me figure out where I can connect a common wire on it to supply power to a new wifi thermostat I bought. It needs 24vac. Any ideas??
Great video. Do you have instructions to remove the thermastat that controls the hot water only. I have the Honeywell Triple Aquastat Relay L8124A, C - the same one you have in the video. I just installed a stand alone heat pump water heater and capped off the 2 pipes on the tankless coil. But my boiler is now staying on constant as it is still heating water (I did turn off the boiler). Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks dude , really helped me out . Bought a used oil boiler for my water rads . The old one was from the 60s lol the new is mid 90s . QUESTION ? the burner had 3 wires plus ground red white and black.... and this unit was for hot water domestic as well . AM I ok to take the red and white for low temp and just crimp it with the red from the burner ??? was only way it would run with my thermostat , THANKS LOVE THE VIDS your a good guy
Steve, I'm working on a oil boiler with taco zone valve. burner goes out on safety when high temp is reached. the taco circulator is not coming on.I notice the circulator has a capacitor, are they powered by 110 volts? and can I check it applying 110 to the circ. directly without blowing it up? ?
Hey Steve, thanks for all the info on zr and zc. I do understand how they work, but I'm not sure how to apply the concept to a Honeywell L4081B. I see how power would drop out when the temp decreases, but how exactly does the L4081B run the high limit with a call for heat opposed to simply maintaining temp for the domestic water?
Hi Steve, Good to have to contribute to the communities as you are very thorough. I have a Repco GM - Series Gas Fired Boiler 27 years on of the which shut down. The emergency electric on and off switch will not ignite the boiler. I installed another switch. No go. The pilot was out as well and so installed another Thermo Coupler. Currently the Pilot light is lit. I was looking for a reset switch on the Honeywell junction box and i noticed the spring loaded magnetic mechanism that has a set of points in the back which does not close for the reason there is no power. Do you suppose the Amp Fuse is burnt out in the main switch panel? I also screwed up and remove the wires from the 2 terminal Capacitor coloured Red, Black and White. Which goes where? 1. Red & Black together to the first terminal, White to the second terminal? 2. Red & White to the first terminal, Black to the second terminal. 3. Black & White to the first terminal and Red to the second terminal? Or can the Taco water circulator run without a capacitor? Been burning the midnight oil [kerosene lamps] for about 2 weeks now to keep @ 62 degrees in the house. Hope you can solve this mystery. And Thanks for being there!!! Joe, Long Island
Curious, I have a Weil-Mclean V68 oil fired boiler. Has a zone pump on each zone(have2). I was told to turn my low limit off for my system, cause that's how the old stat was set. All's well runs good. But why turn off LL on the auqastat ?
Idk if this is monitored Steven, but hopefully you can answer a question for me, my furnace blower motor keeps seizing , so I replaced the motor and it's still doing the same thing. Do you have any suggestions?
There must be a actual connection between ZR and the first arrow on the left. The pointer was dizzying. I wish you would do this one again and trace the power paths of mainly the hot side "when 1K energizes 1K1 closes and this feeds power to the circulator and 1K2 closes and power continues to the relay....."and so on. Now is it the circulator to the main control the hot water stop when it tries to reheat itself till it reaches 160? The aqua stat switches are at room temp as we see them? And then flip the other way when 160 is reached?
My hot water furnace comes on all summer long to heat my domestic hot water. I have an electric hot water tank heating my domestic, so I want to turn off the part that controls the heating of the domestic hot water.. In the winter months I only want my furnace coming on the heat the house (old cast iron rads) and not the domestic. How do I turn off my domestic for good without affecting the heating of the house.. My aqua stat looks similar to the one you first started talking about in your video. How do I kill the domestic water from being heated? Thanks Don
Steve. . a boiler with a built in domestic hot water coil for hot water on demand doesn't use a circulating pump it just cold water from didn't do it and your hot water comes out to your mixing valve if you so desired to put one so how would those additional terminals be used to maintain the lower limit of 160 does no additional controllers used
Hi Steve, great videos! I have a couple questions I hope you can clarify where it relates to using 1 ecobee 4 smart thermostat and the taco SR 504 relay control. On a system with oil fired boiler with tankless domestic, what is the best way to wire the SR 504 to the Honeywell controller? And if you could also cover how to feed line voltage to the SR504? Is it best to feed line voltage to the SR 504 from the L1 L2 terminals on the Honeywell controller? And how best to utilize the ZC and ZR taps for this situation? If I wire the SR 504 using the alternate wiring method on the wiring diagram, will I still have 24v going to the smart stat?
Judging by this Steven Lavimoniere, and his replies to any questions, unfortunately, it looks like to have a snowballs chance in hell of receiving an answer, you have to submit your question(s) within a year of his posting a video?
Thank you, Steven. I am just a homeowner trying to understand how the system works. This is one of the best explanations I've seen on this subject. Thank you, I know I am not the only one that appreciates it. I hope that karma does its job and rewards you for your efforts. God bless you.
I have served my time as an apprentice with enthusiasm. I fully understand you can't learn it all in 5-6 years but I think it would be fair to say that not ever in one class did anyone ever offer a tutorial of this quality. It's ten years since I've been in school, a little older and wiser and I'm still hearing that this kind of teaching still does not exist. I owe any knowledge that I have at all, on these everyday controls, to this poster and the independents I've worked with or helped along the way. Please let this video inspire us all to share more knowledge about controls and stomp out the culture of ignorance that persists.. many many thanks to Steven lavimoniere, keep em comin!!
Super description and lesson. It really does help us older guys! I’m 80+ and helping my son convert from baseboard to underfloor radiant. There’s also a garage unit heater which will operate as Zone 2. Your explanation of the function of ZR and ZC were exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!
Steve i have an oil weil mclain with this aquastat. I do gas heat/sheet metal and had some experience with oil from my first job but mainly work on furnaces. Bought my first house and am having problems with my boiler not firing on low limit occasionally. Your video was a huge help and I appreciate you taking your time to explain all the terminals. I’m going to use this to replace my aquastat in the morning
I’ve been watching your videos for years now since I was a apprentice. I’m in the trade 8 years now and I must say you saved my ass on calls where I had no idea what’s going on lol also you have shown me a lot of things. I’m a journey man now with good knowledge and a good portion has come from watching your videos and applying it in the Field. Always good to re watch for refreshers especially in between seasons.
I am a union Plumber/Pipefitter in Alaska that quit my job and started my own business. I struggle with wiring and controls. I had an electrician before to depend on. Now I have to learn how to do it myself. Thanks for the video..
Thanks Steven for taking your time to make this video. I learn from you everyday. I appreciate your story helping the guy with the shower, your one of a million in technicians. You give your heart each and every day to help the customer.
Excellent description of not only how to wire the circuit, but a full explanation of the circuit and what feeds what. Great job on this Steve. I wish I had you as a teacher when I was back in tech school!
hi Steve, you gave the installer the opportunity to go back and correct his mistake. you told the customer he is a good guy. you complemented him on his work and he has the guts to call you and give you grief. he's a flipping ass####.too proud to accept his mistake. you should have taken his customer. thanks for the video, much respect from California.
Hi Steve I've been an electrician for nearly 35 yrs and I'm not to proud to learn something new and taking advice from anyone great video the drawing is self explanatory
Steve you're the man Brotha! Many thanks from one of the young guys who have learned a lot from your videos and applied it out in the field.
thank you for explaining this! I had to bypass the low circuit to get the boiler run cold start and this video was super helpful
Hey Steve, i know this a old video but i do miss these classes you are such a good mentor i have learn so much with you. thank you for everything you do.
Thanks Steven for your teachings, your very kind and giving. Lord bless you and your family.
Very well spoken and informative 👍......somebody who actually know what he talking about. Thanks steve
Professor Lavimoniere! Thanks for this instructional video - i'm not an HVAC Tech but always willing to learn new things.
+Michael Padovani watch and learn
The gentleman should not be offended, I have been working on TV's and appliance since I was 19, I am now 67. You can learned something everyday, no shame in not knowing, the shame is not knowing and not asking someone that does know... Great Video Steve
+Phil Jones said to say but the guy got butt hurt from not knowing how to wire the boiler . he has been doing it wrong for 35 years sad but true
Thanks Steven! You've hooked me several times. Your great at what you do! Last year I replaced a 3 handle shower faucet with a single lever. Thanks to you instruction video I did the job including cutting the ceramic tile. The job came out mint. Thanks again!
Thank you, been looking all over for a way to bypass lo limit on my unit. You answered at 10:28
I was trying to figure out how ZR and ZC worked a couple weeks ago since I'm trying to help a friend who's aquastat I think is going bad (keeps making clicking noises for a couple minutes sometimes before firing up) so we might replace it soon, but I couldn't find anything as clear and easy to understand as your video... so this video was great, thank you!
+Matt Puterio i am glad i could help
This is really an educational video on this set up . I can see old head making this error unintentionally . Good job !
Really great explation on this control circuit. Thank you. Please upload more of these type of videos on control systems for us novices. Thanks again. So interesting.
Thanks Steven for explaining that.
It helped me understand how to get rid of the R89A relay and put in a R845A now my burner fires when the 2nd zone calls for heat.
Thank you straight up from A Texan. you help us help people stay warm or cool plus save lives.
Nice educational video you did Steve. I think you should do something like this maybe once a month if you can find the time on different items. Thanks again.
+Gary B might be a good idea thanks
Great video, Big help, My boiler was only wired with the ZC connect, the house heats up faster and the boiler cycles less now I have correctly connected the ZR terminal! Thank you soo much for the education!
great teaching video Steve, on the Honeywell --control and circulator.. control of many,burners circulator so boiler temp.does not fall below set point of 160 on low limit control,so water
Very helpful I ran into this today that’s why I started searching about it
Steve thanks for sharing your knowledge I am a hands on homeowner and love to learn...
Hey Steve I came here trying to step my game up on aquastat knowledge. I'm tryin to get a plan together for wiring an ecobee to a single zone boiler.
Great videos Steve.
The reverse hook up is that I want to learn more. I have main operating control is the one on your left on the beginning of your video the old style and I have the aquastat that is not hooked up to the reverse mode. So I want to hook it up the wires from aquastat to main operating control.
thanks for the knowledge steve! i just started as an apprentice and im in my last semester and ykur videos have helped me alot! thanks again and good job
+Jonathan Agudo good luck out there in the field when you start ,its a good trade hope you enjoy the work
Steve your the man and I appreciate it very informative
Thank you for taking the time to clearly show how it should be done.
You are a good teacher.
Can you show us the 24v control sequencing in a gas-fired steam system that uses a vent damper, probe-type LWCO, and intermittent ignition module w/a dual solenoid gas valve?
This causes a lot of novices to burn up transformers !
Nice Video. I have a boiler with the same aquastat relay as the one on the left since it has a tankless water heater but I don't use the tankless because I think the coil pipes burst before I moved into the house along with the copper pipes burst all through the house after someone didn't drain the pipes when they left the home abandoned. The boiler has 2 zones and the other zone taps directly into the outgoing hot water on the main pipe before it gets split off into 2 zones. This aquastat relay zone on the tankless runs too hot and the low and high adjustments are off quite a bit compared to the new temp gauge I put on the front of the boiler. I think it's that the temperature probe on the side aquastat has no thermal grease on it or in it.
Also I noticed on your aquastat relays that the boards look to have heated up and changed color which is an indication that you have loose solder joints on the back of the board that most times just need a good resoldering. I found many cracks around the solder joints on my aquastat relay and fixed it that way instead of buying new. They seem to be known for that type of defect that's easily fixed if you don't let it arc n spark until something shorts out or burns up.
Another thing on my aquastat since I don't use the tankless, does it even matter what I set the low to or how can I have the boiler just stay on for when the zone needs heat and then shut off? They wired the Circulator with a red wire to C1 and nothing on C2 as well as that same wire with white and black all going to the box on top of the burner motor that has a reset button on it. Then the wires come out of that reset box and goes to the circulator. They put the circulators on the incoming heating pipes instead of the outgoing as well. Not exactly how the manufacturer showed how it was supposed to be setup.
Man, Ive been looking for a youtuber just like you
thanks for watching and commentioning
whats happening to this world steven how about thanking you for catching his mistake, your never to old to learn- great vid steven.
Fantastic explanation there professor .
Excellent video Steve
i actually understand what you were talking about
Thanks! I learn more from u than my instructor!
Thanks a bunch, I have that scenario in my place and I have never felt it works right so I'm gonna check things over-now that I know.God bless
Thank you for the video. I have been struggling with an intermittent problem where my main zone keeps getting up to 80 degrees F even with the thermostats unwired from the aquastat. I am now going to go over all the wiring to see if it is correct and if not I'll replace the control. (Everything else except for the firebox itself has already been replaced.)
Thanks again!
Respect for this interesting demonstration ! many thanks
I just like listening to you talk.
Steve, thanks another great lesson.
👍👍👍. Thanks for the Hi Limit / Low Limit info. just answered all my questions.
Hi Steven....very helpful. I just tried to replace an "A" with a "C" controller which did not work. Used the same connections. The only zone connection is to ZC for this oil burner (no connection to ZR). The low limit does not fire up the burner. I'm going to ohm out things and see if I can resolve anything there. The C model is exactly what you show in your video (to the left with the low limit).
TNX
Peter
aquastat 101 ... nice informational video Steve
Great content, hope to see more like this. The story that goes with it helps give context.
Thanks for the information, always like to learn new information. Thanks for your time to put this together.
This helped me out a lot, thank you for your time
Thanks for the excellent description! Love the dog too!
Well done!! Very helpful, and very well presented. Thanks!!
Dude! You really know your stuff!
God bless you for making this video. Very helpful
WTF ??? THANK YOU. LOL 😆 I'M GETTING OLD !!! GOT IT NOW AND IT IS AMAZING HOW ONE CAN FORGET AFTER HAVING A STROKE. 👍 NOW I REMEMBER.
thank you Steve for all your doing!!
Steve, I have the first control board that you're talking about. I just installed a new nest thermostat upstairs. My previous thermostat did not use the c wire so it was coiled up. I have the red white and blue wires hooked up to the thermostat. I have the red and the white wire hooked up to this board on my furnace. Where does the blue c wire go on this board? Or can it?
did you ever figure out where to connect the Common Wire ?
@@samer3310 unfortunately I haven't messed with it since I posted the comment. I since removed the nest thermostat but Google did send me the common wire adapter. I've just been too lazy to try to hook it up.
Super nice and clear explanation!
Steve where do I hook up a common wire for a smart thermostat on an aqua stat
@kennethdavis5077 did you ever figure out where to connect the Common Wire ?
Excellent instruction! You help the old guys like me too...LOL
+Don Burton thanks for watching
You sure know your Stuff! GREAT.. My Dog does the Skid Marks all the time. I think its so cool...marking the territory!
+gort400 lol the dog does kicking action
Good Stuff Steve, thanks for sharing this with us...
+Rich Rada thanks for the comment
Well done steven some time I run into that problem
+wink hvac a lot of guys do not know what them ports are for
I have the same aqua stat L8148e no zone heating just a battery operated 2 wire thermostat
I bought a new Honeywell 9585 smart thermostat and it requires a c wire . Could I use the tv wire at the thermostat jumper it to the c terminal to power it ?
did you ever figure out where to connect the Common Wire ?
Another great video Steven good stuff thanks
+Darren Skinner thanks for the support
Great lesson, now how can I get a Honeywell R8124A aquastat & a installation vid would be great
Nice demo Steve.
+Greens Beans 53 thanks man
Excellent Video, Steve there is always something new boiling under the hood and good to know, Do you have any videos of this hooked up with temper valve setup or pipe layout..Thanks..
Any idea where to hook up a common wire on this?
Great information Steve.
Steve can you please make a video on setting HL, LL, and Diff. on a oil fired burner with 2 zone valves ,1 circ pump and a tank less Hw heater. Does this have to be changed during seasons or set it and forget It?
What's the best setting in the winter to keep the low and high setting on, castiro rads best setting for the aqaustst
Interesting good video appreciate it
Good explanation Steve. Can you explain (in short) what the differential switch does? My sisters have good hot water, (tankless on oil boiler) but she has to turn the thermostat up 4 degrees above what it's set at to get the circulator to run. In other words, she had the stat set at 68, temp in room was 67. Circulator would not come on until she turns the stat up to 72. Is that the differential setting? I never looked at what they're set at. She had some friend come over and play with it. Any help is appreciated! You're the best!
Steve, I have this same aquastat. I want to disable the domestic hot water supply. What would be the best way to do that?
Very good video Steve very informative a lot of good info. So that's normally just oil you normally don't see that with a gas boiler?
As an introduction, can you just explain the three settings, without using a second zone. Discuss the LO HI and DIFF controls, and what you feel are the proper settings for domestic operation. Thanks
Love your videos smart man ! I said it before I’d love to work with you
Hey Steve...can I wire my new outdoor wood boiler to my existing indoor thermostat...if I can please explain...like your channel and watch all the time...oh and pet miss molly and baby the dog for me...lol
Thank you for this!! We have the 2nd controller you have there for our old boiler system - it's a honeywell L8148J. I can't for the life of me figure out where I can connect a common wire on it to supply power to a new wifi thermostat I bought. It needs 24vac. Any ideas??
Leslie Cass Did you ever figure this out? I am having the same issue.
Great video. Do you have instructions to remove the thermastat that controls the hot water only. I have the Honeywell Triple Aquastat Relay L8124A, C - the same one you have in the video. I just installed a stand alone heat pump water heater and capped off the 2 pipes on the tankless coil. But my boiler is now staying on constant as it is still heating water (I did turn off the boiler). Any help would be appreciated.
So your sending 110 (hot) power to ZR ? does that also send a call for heat for zone 2 ? or do you need to do some more with the T-stat ?
Thanks dude , really helped me out . Bought a used oil boiler for my water rads . The old one was from the 60s lol the new is mid 90s . QUESTION ? the burner had 3 wires plus ground red white and black.... and this unit was for hot water domestic as well . AM I ok to take the red and white for low temp and just crimp it with the red from the burner ??? was only way it would run with my thermostat , THANKS LOVE THE VIDS your a good guy
Is this for JUST oil boilers or all?
Steve, I'm working on a oil boiler with taco zone valve. burner goes out on safety when high temp is reached. the taco circulator is not coming on.I notice the circulator has a capacitor, are they powered by 110 volts? and can I check it applying 110 to the circ. directly without blowing it up? ?
Hey Steve, thanks for all the info on zr and zc. I do understand how they work, but I'm not sure how to apply the concept to a Honeywell L4081B. I see how power would drop out when the temp decreases, but how exactly does the L4081B run the high limit with a call for heat opposed to simply maintaining temp for the domestic water?
"run up to the high limit"
Hi Steve, Good to have to contribute to the communities as you are very thorough. I have a Repco GM - Series Gas Fired Boiler 27 years on of the which shut down. The emergency electric on and off switch will not ignite the boiler. I installed another switch. No go. The pilot was out as well and so installed another Thermo Coupler. Currently the Pilot light is lit. I was looking for a reset switch on the Honeywell junction box and i noticed the spring loaded magnetic mechanism that has a set of points in the back which does not close for the reason there is no power. Do you suppose the Amp Fuse is burnt out in the main switch panel? I also screwed up and remove the wires from the 2 terminal Capacitor coloured Red, Black and White. Which goes where? 1. Red & Black together to the first terminal, White to the second terminal? 2. Red & White to the first terminal, Black to the second terminal. 3. Black & White to the first terminal and Red to the second terminal? Or can the Taco water circulator run without a capacitor? Been burning the midnight oil [kerosene lamps] for about 2 weeks now to keep @ 62 degrees in the house. Hope you can solve this mystery. And Thanks for being there!!! Joe, Long Island
Curious, I have a Weil-Mclean V68 oil fired boiler. Has a zone pump on each zone(have2). I was told to turn my low limit off for my system, cause that's how the old stat was set. All's well runs good. But why turn off LL on the auqastat ?
Hi Steven, in a Utica PEG150BIDE gas boiler, where are the wires of the Safgard VXT-24 automatic feeder connected?
Idk if this is monitored Steven, but hopefully you can answer a question for me, my furnace blower motor keeps seizing , so I replaced the motor and it's still doing the same thing. Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you, really helps.
Help out the young guys?? Sounds like you helped out an OLD FART on this one Steve...Good job
thanks for the comment
Helped the old guys too!
There must be a actual connection between ZR and the first arrow on the left. The pointer was dizzying. I wish you would do this one again and trace the power paths of mainly the hot side "when 1K energizes 1K1 closes and this feeds power to the circulator and 1K2 closes and power continues to the relay....."and so on. Now is it the circulator to the main control the hot water stop when it tries to reheat itself till it reaches 160? The aqua stat switches are at room temp as we see them? And then flip the other way when 160 is reached?
great video. you really know your trade!
My hot water furnace comes on all summer long to heat my domestic hot water. I have an electric hot water tank heating my domestic, so I want to turn off the part that controls the heating of the domestic hot water.. In the winter months I only want my furnace coming on the heat the house (old cast iron rads) and not the domestic. How do I turn off my domestic for good without affecting the heating of the house.. My aqua stat looks similar to the one you first started talking about in your video. How do I kill the domestic water from being heated? Thanks Don
I love how the dog runs up the stairs as soon as she gets unhooked
+Michael Ponte she is off for a snack
Steve. . a boiler with a built in domestic hot water coil for hot water on demand doesn't use a circulating pump it just cold water from didn't do it and your hot water comes out to your mixing valve if you so desired to put one so how would those additional terminals be used to maintain the lower limit of 160 does no additional controllers used
Hi Steve, great videos! I have a couple questions I hope you can clarify where it relates to using 1 ecobee 4 smart thermostat and the taco SR 504 relay control. On a system with oil fired boiler with tankless domestic, what is the best way to wire the SR 504 to the Honeywell controller? And if you could also cover how to feed line voltage to the SR504? Is it best to feed line voltage to the SR 504 from the L1 L2 terminals on the Honeywell controller? And how best to utilize the ZC and ZR taps for this situation? If I wire the SR 504 using the alternate wiring method on the wiring diagram, will I still have 24v going to the smart stat?
Judging by this Steven Lavimoniere, and his replies to any questions, unfortunately, it looks like to have a snowballs chance in hell of receiving an answer, you have to submit your question(s) within a year of his posting a video?