A great way of extending the visual capabilities of just the digital camera and a single shot. Image making of this sort opens up new possibilities in composition that we never had in film. Thanks for bringing this information to us.
I've only recently started experimenting around with panoramas and now I can't stop. I've always been a pixel peeper, but also usually dislike how much stuff is included in "real" wide angle pictures (whenever I tried to take them), so a fully controllable field of view both vertically and horizontally, plus the increased resolution, is right up my alley.
That was good. Straight to the point and you covered a tremendous amount. The idea of a shallow depth of focus wide angle shot by panning with a longer lens was new to me. Thank you.
Thanks, Joel, I already do all of these methods using a Sony 42mp camera. It is amazing how much detail is possible. It is hard to explain getting the depth of a long lens with the angle of a wider lens and then a mega file that doesn't break down. Even though I already knew all of this I couldn't wait to see what you had to say. Very inspiring. The only downside is moving subjects don't work with these methods such as seascapes. Oh well, maybe that technology will come. P.S. I have taken live classes from you at PSW and really enjoy your style. I have a 7' shoot through umbrella based on your recommendations from one of those classes😎🤙
I absolutely love shooting panoramas purely just to get the higher resolution, although I am mostly shooting landscapes so not dealing with the enhanced bokeh - i.e. brenzier method :)
Just to let the dog in the kitchen, this is how I did stitching. I would lean on something outside and rattle of three rows about 6 wide each, pop it into photoshop; and until I came to version 22.31 it worked. Well except i was using fairly wide angle and you don't want to see my efforts with warp, no you don't.
Thank's, played with doing this with my ef25 and a 135 f2 with macro stuff, but never considered a stitch for a portrait. Can't wait to try it!!! What awesome video!!!!
Brilliant always inspiring videos , Great photography,Great artist,Great attitude, Certainly one of the biggest influencers in my photography. Thanks Joel .
Very nice video with some really advanced stuff in the end. I wonder if I can shoot a vertical panorama with the camera moving up/down on the central column? That should be a fun assignment for the weekend...lol. Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Always great work but you can't talk about a "poor man" setup full of RRS gear. lol. My generic nodal rail and l-bracket were purchased on ebay for $30 total and have given me years of flawless use.
@@feartheferg2483 Here's the general style of mine... where you buy and what you pay is up to you. www.amazon.com/dp/B08HLXJ4FM/ www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Release-Camera-Compatible/dp/B00J7LT4ZK/
Love my RRS gear! The L brackets alone are worth the price of admission. I started with a B150-B as both a nodal slide & macro rail...and was so impressed I had to save my pennies for the fluid gimbal head. Both are game changers.
Nice tut of options, and beautiful results. I've done the 1st (brenizer style) using an ND to drop me in bright sunlight to 2.8 and the result, is just killer because you don't expect such shallow dof in full sunlight... people trying it - don't refocus, get the core shot focus right and stick with that focus point for the array of shots you shoot around it.
Great video, Lots of info. I have a question? Would this also work with smaller sensor canon cameras? Such as canon APC sensor or only full sensor? just wondering since I don't own a ST lens yet. 😀
Hi Joel, Awesome video! I really loved how you do the pano portraits, I'm sending the link to this video to my daughter as she has a small business doing family photos... Also I would like to start sharing your videos on my Singapore Street Shots FaceBook page if that's ok with you?
Great work- I bought the manfrotto multirow earlier this year. It is great but think yours looks a better design. Thank you for your tutorials and your enthusiasm.
You can use a nodal ninja, I went through a phase of stitching 3x3 with -2, 0, +2 exposure compensation using a 50mm equivalent prime, PTGui is the biz but Hugin is a free tool that can do stitching and HDR...
Love this tutorial. Can you use a Wimberley Sidekick to accomplish your Method 5? Can it be modified with a nodal plate. I can't afford the fluid gimbal head.
I’ve never taken a portrait ever. This video made me interested. You made look very easy. I know it’s not, but really know what your doing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Joel.
What a lousy job going across America shooting Harleys! I’d hate it, really really hate it, I can’t think of a worse job...who am I kidding? I’m so green with envy that I will have to watch the video again as I stopped concentrating at that point. Great video with great tips, thank you.
Method number 5 can be done with a motorised gimbal like the DJI Osmo/Ronin series but for heavy cameras doing it manually is still perhaps cheaper. Having a gimbal in addition to a panning rig allows you to take sample shots with the gimbal to give you an idea of whether its worth doing a manual shoot of the scene.
Very well explained. Thanks. What's the benefit of TS lens over the rail? My guess it just can't do vertical photos stitch correct? If I want to do Landscape as well as architecture what's the advice you give and which basic TS to start with?
Hi. Great vid! A couple of questions. What is the brand of tripod head that revolves that you're using? It looks solid! Also what are the differences between ptgui and autopano? Any preferences between using the two? Thanks!
Do you also focus stack each of these frames? I mean, the portraits, where you can, and probably want, the shallow dof are ok… but let’s say, that last one, of the HD motel scene… or do you rely basically on the dof of the lens? Maybe you use a more wide lens to have a bigger dof?
When you take images with your gimbal head kit and you point camera up and down does that not distort your image or does lens profile correction resolve that in Lightroom / Photoshop. I would have thought you needed to raise and lower camera in the rail and keep the plain of axis the same as you move up and down. However thank you for the video some very useful tips in there that I can learn to use. 👍 🇮🇪
How do you handle the weird bowing that nearby objects take on in a panorama? Eg if you are shooting a panorama across a river, ie the river flows left to right - it takes on a weird distortion that you don’t get if you shoot a single ultra wide angle shot. The same effect when shooting indoors causes rooms to look trippy and curved
Thanks for the video. I do appreciate the thought you put into this, and I intuitively understand how this would work well for landscapes that don't move. However, it's not clear to me how this would work with a portrait. How does the stitching work if your subject moves even a fraction of an inch from one shot to the next? How does the software handle this?
Hey Gilles, my courses are all over at www.joel grimes.com My full training can be found here: www.joelgrimes.com/complete-pack-sale Some individual courses here: www.joelgrimes.com/private-sale-subscribers-only Or you can get a freebie here: www.joelgrimes.com/ten-steps-to-becoming-a-successful-photographer-free Enjoy!
Great vid. Quick ? would be on the 3x3 rows , do you lock the rig in the vertical position & slide that rig up & down or tilt it up & down like you do horizontal. If anybody answers , thanks in advance.
Joel- How is it that you are rotating the camera below the ball? Don’t the camera have to be rotated above the ball after the camera is leveled? Otherwise the camera will not remain level as it’s rotated??
Hi Joel, thanks for the well-thought out video. I have been looking to get into multi image stitching for some time. I just had a question about the Fluid head you used in the last example. For shooting to stitch would it be just as easy using a Really Right Stuff PG-02 FG Pano-Gimbal Head which is about half the price? or does the fluid head make it faster to adjust the different sections of the stitch? Thanks for you help.
get an L bracket, works easier and is more stable. ;) I assume you're shooting a horizontal pano and want taller sections to stitch together rather than shoot multiple rows.
Yes, you can shoot a vertical column that way [with a nodal slide] if that's all you need. You'll only need a full gimbal head to shoot rows AND columns. :)
I have one additional approach that you came close to touching on, but missed all together. Using a shift or a tilt/shift, shooting the center, then shooting a frame at each clock position on the shift lens - which is another 12 frames (13 total). You have no nodal point problems, and you wind up with resulting image close to a 3 x 3. It provides quite a few cropping options, both vertical or horizontal oriented along with square and various rectangles. Works extremely well with landscapes, cityscapes along with architecture.
Thank You very helpful. I was thinking of trying this as with a 180mm on my D800. My printer wants TIFF files, this means stitched three files will be over 650mb. I'd love that.
Hi guys. I have a doubt about this kind of photo methods. I just have a tripod. But perhaps I'm gonna get a nodal plate for my camera system (fujifilm xt2). Until I understood, I just gonna be able to create a single row panorama (enough by now) but... If I play with the center column moving it up and down in combination with the nodal rail plate, will it work to take ...let's say 3x3 pano , correct? Thanks
ok. Thanks. By now I have to find the way to mark on my L-Bracket the position of my lenses. Mine is a cheaper one and it comes without that mark. Thanks for the answer.
Joel, when using this techinique to the portraits (with a person in scene) Do you take more than one frame with the person and the software does well combining them? Is there any attention We must have when evolving people in the scene for a panorama?
I’ve done a bunch of these panos, some handheld and some on a tripod. I’ve never used any nodal accessories and I’ve had very few problems. What’s the advantage of using the rails? I’m confused.
Jeff Kennedy My experience - It matters most to have a nodal rail dialed in for your mm position when there is a lot of fine detail and lines , and you have stuff near and far in the image that you care about. It's the kind of thing that takes you from 90 to 99% on matchups... (well, maybe a little higher than 90 if you're really disciplined in your technique...maybe, say 91 or 92 perhaps 95 - but no more !!! lol)
Lyle Stavast that’s a good point. I did have a recent image shot on a tennis court with a chain link fence in the background. And the final stitched image did have some problems where the fence and net both had spots where things didn’t line up. Would like to experiment with a situation like that and see if the rail made a difference.
Jeff Kennedy If you are perfectly level and arc around, it'll be better than hand-held but there's a limit to how excellent the software is at stitching it. Not often it's really perfect if you go looking really closely (at least with PS, can't speak for any other pano software. Have fun.
The only problem is that very few photographers have a market for anything past a 40 inch wide framed print. In many cases, they are dealing with prints and digital images considerably less than that.
![[DRIP] ‘Woke Up In Tokyo (RUKA & ASA)’ PREVIEW](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QN44lcR_VkI/mqdefault.jpg)
I keep coming back to this awesome video. Thanks for being here for us all
A great way of extending the visual capabilities of just the digital camera and a single shot. Image making of this sort opens up new possibilities in composition that we never had in film. Thanks for bringing this information to us.
Your enthusiasm is contagious Joel, hat's off. All of that experience shines through, one of my favourite channels. Thanks, always learning.
Glad you enjoy it!
I've only recently started experimenting around with panoramas and now I can't stop. I've always been a pixel peeper, but also usually dislike how much stuff is included in "real" wide angle pictures (whenever I tried to take them), so a fully controllable field of view both vertically and horizontally, plus the increased resolution, is right up my alley.
Thank you very much for taking your time and share very useful knowledge.
They are beautiful shots of the cacti. I generally don't go in for black and white but they are stunning.
As always amazing Joel, thx a lot for sharing your knowledge 🙏
Awesome work and process Joel, thanks for sharing.
You are very welcome
I've made a 181 MP panorama from the Empire State Building and it was so cool and felt so satisfying to pull off!
Extremely generous! Others make you pay for this kind of information!
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Great video. And that Harley shot is simply awesome!
thanks for sharing. your images are magnificent. 3 shots of a biker....brilliant.
Glad you enjoyed it
That was good. Straight to the point and you covered a tremendous amount. The idea of a shallow depth of focus wide angle shot by panning with a longer lens was new to me. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
I heard something like this once before but for a large landscape but yours was much more in depth
You’re really good at explaining stuff. Been watching photo videos for 8 years and your videos are great
Thanks Tyler! That means the world to me!
Going to be slammin those panoramas in Chalten dude
That's really helpful. Thanks!
You're welcome!
That Joel Grimes guy is damn damn damn good. Just fond of his work. This is where talent comes to art.
Successful photographers as he always go the extra mile to solve & create. Always a pleasure to watch his vids.
Why isn’t there a 2nd like button. Thank you you for this incredible tutorial breakdown.
Really pleased I just happened across your channel, looking forward to learning from what you do, cheers from the UK.
The first way to create a huge file is called the Brenziner method. Joel's work is insanely good.
brenizer :)
It is called so, but he didn't invent it or use it first time. It is very old technique. Some just get lucky to be branded as its 'inventor'.
What a truly inspiring video. Thanks so much Joel.
Glad it was helpful!
This made me happy.
🥳
This is some great stuff! 👍 I started doing something similar to this a few years ago, however, I just learned a ton more from this video. Thank you
Very cool!
Thanks, Joel, I already do all of these methods using a Sony 42mp camera. It is amazing how much detail is possible. It is hard to explain getting the depth of a long lens with the angle of a wider lens and then a mega file that doesn't break down. Even though I already knew all of this I couldn't wait to see what you had to say. Very inspiring. The only downside is moving subjects don't work with these methods such as seascapes. Oh well, maybe that technology will come. P.S. I have taken live classes from you at PSW and really enjoy your style. I have a 7' shoot through umbrella based on your recommendations from one of those classes😎🤙
You are such an inspiration!!!! Your advice has just set my direction for the next phase of my photography. Thank you and cheers ✌🏻🍻
Wow Scott, that's so kind! Good luck!
Great images complemented by your humble review of how good they are.
I absolutely love shooting panoramas purely just to get the higher resolution, although I am mostly shooting landscapes so not dealing with the enhanced bokeh - i.e. brenzier method :)
Many thanks for making the video I learned a lot and I am used to shooting 4x5 and my Hasselblad 16 Bit. Neil
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Really interesting. Thx a lot
Welcome!
Great share!!! Very eye opening!
👍🍻
Cheers Steve, I appreciate that!
Just to let the dog in the kitchen, this is how I did stitching.
I would lean on something outside and rattle of three rows about 6 wide each, pop it into photoshop; and until I came to version 22.31 it worked.
Well except i was using fairly wide angle and you don't want to see my efforts with warp, no you don't.
Awesome video, awesome content thanks for sharing
Thanks for the visit
Thank's, played with doing this with my ef25 and a 135 f2 with macro stuff, but never considered a stitch for a portrait. Can't wait to try it!!! What awesome video!!!!
Thanks for the insight. I truly appreciate it. Waving from The Bahamas :)
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
Incredible content, thank you, sir!
This is very useful! Thankyou!
Your work is simply superb.
Brilliant always inspiring videos , Great photography,Great artist,Great attitude, Certainly one of the biggest influencers in my photography. Thanks Joel .
Amazingly beautiful results. Thanks for the insight.
Very nice video with some really advanced stuff in the end. I wonder if I can shoot a vertical panorama with the camera moving up/down on the central column? That should be a fun assignment for the weekend...lol.
Thank you very much for your time and effort.
Great information.
Thanks for watching!
Thank you! Very informative video!
Always great work but you can't talk about a "poor man" setup full of RRS gear. lol. My generic nodal rail and l-bracket were purchased on ebay for $30 total and have given me years of flawless use.
Send me the one you use, searching for something affordable now before heading to Yellowstone!
@@feartheferg2483 Here's the general style of mine... where you buy and what you pay is up to you. www.amazon.com/dp/B08HLXJ4FM/
www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Release-Camera-Compatible/dp/B00J7LT4ZK/
Love my RRS gear! The L brackets alone are worth the price of admission.
I started with a B150-B as both a nodal slide & macro rail...and was so impressed I had to save my pennies for the fluid gimbal head. Both are game changers.
Nice tut of options, and beautiful results.
I've done the 1st (brenizer style) using an ND to drop me in bright sunlight to 2.8 and the result, is just killer because you don't expect such shallow dof in full sunlight... people trying it - don't refocus, get the core shot focus right and stick with that focus point for the array of shots you shoot around it.
Absolutely. When you refocus, the stitch shows and thay isn't pretty
Fine Joe!!! I subscribed!!
Great video, Lots of info. I have a question? Would this also work with smaller sensor canon cameras? Such as canon APC sensor or only full sensor? just wondering since I don't own a ST lens yet. 😀
Great informative video thanks
Brilliant.
Hi Joel, Awesome video! I really loved how you do the pano portraits, I'm sending the link to this video to my daughter as she has a small business doing family photos... Also I would like to start sharing your videos on my Singapore Street Shots FaceBook page if that's ok with you?
Great work- I bought the manfrotto multirow earlier this year. It is great but think yours looks a better design. Thank you for your tutorials and your enthusiasm.
Great vid!.
great tutorial thank you sir
Thanks Joel! Keep up the great job. Loving all the TH-cam videos....
Good Job
Amazing video Joel, cant wait to try it this technique with my D850.
In the beach motel shot you mention that you “strobe” the bike. What do you mean by that? Do you mean exposure bracket?
Thanks for the info :)
You can use a nodal ninja, I went through a phase of stitching 3x3 with -2, 0, +2 exposure compensation using a 50mm equivalent prime, PTGui is the biz but Hugin is a free tool that can do stitching and HDR...
When you’re shouting handheld with the 70-200, do you suggest using manual focus to preserve the depth of field used on the subject?
Love this tutorial. Can you use a Wimberley Sidekick to accomplish your Method 5? Can it be modified with a nodal plate. I can't afford the fluid gimbal head.
Thanks Joel!
I’ve never taken a portrait ever. This video made me interested. You made look very easy. I know it’s not, but really know what your doing. Thank you for sharing your knowledge Joel.
Go for it!
🙌 great
What a lousy job going across America shooting Harleys! I’d hate it, really really hate it, I can’t think of a worse job...who am I kidding? I’m so green with envy that I will have to watch the video again as I stopped concentrating at that point.
Great video with great tips, thank you.
Method number 5 can be done with a motorised gimbal like the DJI Osmo/Ronin series but for heavy cameras doing it manually is still perhaps cheaper. Having a gimbal in addition to a panning rig allows you to take sample shots with the gimbal to give you an idea of whether its worth doing a manual shoot of the scene.
Very well explained. Thanks. What's the benefit of TS lens over the rail? My guess it just can't do vertical photos stitch correct? If I want to do Landscape as well as architecture what's the advice you give and which basic TS to start with?
Excellent... : }
Cool video
Hi. Great vid! A couple of questions. What is the brand of tripod head that revolves that you're using? It looks solid! Also what are the differences between ptgui and autopano? Any preferences between using the two? Thanks!
Do you also focus stack each of these frames? I mean, the portraits, where you can, and probably want, the shallow dof are ok… but let’s say, that last one, of the HD motel scene… or do you rely basically on the dof of the lens? Maybe you use a more wide lens to have a bigger dof?
Hey there Joel, when you were shooting multiple images of the bikes, were you strobing every shot?
Yes, unless shooting for the background layer only
Great tutorial sir!
When you take images with your gimbal head kit and you point camera up and down does that not distort your image or does lens profile correction resolve that in Lightroom / Photoshop. I would have thought you needed to raise and lower camera in the rail and keep the plain of axis the same as you move up and down. However thank you for the video some very useful tips in there that I can learn to use. 👍 🇮🇪
I made a huge pano and then couldn’t find a place to print it. Any recommendations for large printing services?
May be a dumb question. But when doing a panorama, how do you keep the right focal point with still a shallow depth of field?
How do you handle the weird bowing that nearby objects take on in a panorama? Eg if you are shooting a panorama across a river, ie the river flows left to right - it takes on a weird distortion that you don’t get if you shoot a single ultra wide angle shot.
The same effect when shooting indoors causes rooms to look trippy and curved
Great tutorial Joel! How do you handle the focus? Do you use manual focus during the several images capture? Thanks!
Great review.
great tips!
Thanks for the video. I do appreciate the thought you put into this, and I intuitively understand how this would work well for landscapes that don't move. However, it's not clear to me how this would work with a portrait. How does the stitching work if your subject moves even a fraction of an inch from one shot to the next? How does the software handle this?
It can be a little difficult but you can mask your subjects and build the different plates out selecting the details you want from each
Have you ever used genie mini 2 for multi row panoramic?
Joel, where can i see the video tutorial you are talking about please.
Hey Gilles, my courses are all over at www.joel grimes.com
My full training can be found here:
www.joelgrimes.com/complete-pack-sale
Some individual courses here:
www.joelgrimes.com/private-sale-subscribers-only
Or you can get a freebie here:
www.joelgrimes.com/ten-steps-to-becoming-a-successful-photographer-free
Enjoy!
How was this done before personal computers? If it was done
Great vid. Quick ? would be on the 3x3 rows , do you lock the rig in the vertical position & slide that rig up & down or tilt it up & down like you do horizontal. If anybody answers , thanks in advance.
Joel-
How is it that you are rotating the camera below the ball? Don’t the camera have to be rotated above the ball after the camera is leveled? Otherwise the camera will not remain level as it’s rotated??
Hi Joel, thanks for the well-thought out video. I have been looking to get into multi image stitching for some time. I just had a question about the Fluid head you used in the last example. For shooting to stitch would it be just as easy using a Really Right Stuff PG-02 FG Pano-Gimbal Head which is about half the price? or does the fluid head make it faster to adjust the different sections of the stitch? Thanks for you help.
So on top of the stitching did you say you are shooting HDR? Are you using your ISO steps or something else?
Beautiful images! can you lay the ball head over and do a one row vertical?
get an L bracket, works easier and is more stable. ;) I assume you're shooting a horizontal pano and want taller sections to stitch together rather than shoot multiple rows.
Yes, you can shoot a vertical column that way [with a nodal slide] if that's all you need. You'll only need a full gimbal head to shoot rows AND columns. :)
I have one additional approach that you came close to touching on, but missed all together. Using a shift or a tilt/shift, shooting the center, then shooting a frame at each clock position on the shift lens - which is another 12 frames (13 total). You have no nodal point problems, and you wind up with resulting image close to a 3 x 3. It provides quite a few cropping options, both vertical or horizontal oriented along with square and various rectangles. Works extremely well with landscapes, cityscapes along with architecture.
Brill!.
Genius
How do you do the HDR panoramic do HDR each individual picture then merge them as a panoramic or make three panoramic and merge them as in HDR
I've been using Autopano Giga for quite a while for my stitching files.
What tilt-shift focal length for the outdoor (male) and Harley portraits? Wouldn't the 24mm distort the faces so a longer one was used?
Thank You very helpful. I was thinking of trying this as with a 180mm on my D800. My printer wants TIFF files, this means stitched three files will be over 650mb. I'd love that.
Oh hang on, if I'm using a 180mm in place of a 24mm will the file size in Raw be the same size?
One BIG thing when using the tri-pod. Make sure it's level at the base not just the head! Turning a level head on an unlevel base will create issues.
Hi guys. I have a doubt about this kind of photo methods.
I just have a tripod. But perhaps I'm gonna get a nodal plate for my camera system (fujifilm xt2).
Until I understood, I just gonna be able to create a single row panorama (enough by now) but... If I play with the center column moving it up and down in combination with the nodal rail plate, will it work to take ...let's say 3x3 pano , correct? Thanks
ok. Thanks. By now I have to find the way to mark on my L-Bracket the position of my lenses. Mine is a cheaper one and it comes without that mark. Thanks for the answer.
Joel, when using this techinique to the portraits (with a person in scene) Do you take more than one frame with the person and the software does well combining them? Is there any attention We must have when evolving people in the scene for a panorama?
I’ve done a bunch of these panos, some handheld and some on a tripod. I’ve never used any nodal accessories and I’ve had very few problems. What’s the advantage of using the rails? I’m confused.
less error and fixing the image when stitching all the image.
I guess that’s my confusion. I’ve shot handheld, on a tripod, but never with rails and I rarely have an issue. Seems like overkill.
Jeff Kennedy My experience - It matters most to have a nodal rail dialed in for your mm position when there is a lot of fine detail and lines , and you have stuff near and far in the image that you care about. It's the kind of thing that takes you from 90 to 99% on matchups... (well, maybe a little higher than 90 if you're really disciplined in your technique...maybe, say 91 or 92 perhaps 95 - but no more !!! lol)
Lyle Stavast that’s a good point. I did have a recent image shot on a tennis court with a chain link fence in the background. And the final stitched image did have some problems where the fence and net both had spots where things didn’t line up. Would like to experiment with a situation like that and see if the rail made a difference.
Jeff Kennedy If you are perfectly level and arc around, it'll be better than hand-held but there's a limit to how excellent the software is at stitching it. Not often it's really perfect if you go looking really closely (at least with PS, can't speak for any other pano software. Have fun.
The only problem is that very few photographers have a market for anything past a 40 inch wide framed print. In many cases, they are dealing with prints and digital images considerably less than that.