How I EXPORT from LIGHTROOM for PERFECT Prints | For Lab or from Home
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ก.พ. 2023
- In this video I explain in detail how to export your images ready to be printed by a lab. And I get an enormous print done of one of my favourite images.
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Super light Benro Travel Tripod UK - geni.us/Benrotravel
A must have for tripod (L bracket) - geni.us/myLbracket
Lightweight tripod - Benro Mach3 Carbon Fiber Tripod - geni.us/benromach3
Paper I use for all my prints - Fotospeed - geni.us/fotospeed Use DANSON10 to get 10% off your paper.
Thank you Nigel for your excellent instruction. When you come to Portland Maine, USA to photograph, I'll buy you a pint.
Man... Enchanted Oaks is just magical. I could look at that forever.
No wonder your wife left you
Been waiting for this one- I have taken a lot of photos but have never printed a single image. Although there is a lot to think about, you've broken it down to a level that is less intimidating for me. Thank you for the step by step instructions, I hope to print some out someday soon 👏
My calibration tool (Spyder Xpro) also does brightness levels. When I go through the calibration it specifically asks me to set the brightness level it indicates. Once I calibrate I don't change the settings because then I undo what I just did with the calibration. Not sure how yours work but that's how mine works. At least that's what it asks me to do when I get to a certain point in the calibration process. With the photo labs I've used, they typically ask for sRGB but for some products I can use Adobe RGB. Also, they will usually specify JPEGs. I've seen some say TIFFs are okay. All of that to say is to make sure you check out the lab's specifications as well as soft proofing before you order. Also, I discovered that a lab's printer color space is different. It's possible to have some colors out of gamut (CMYK can't reproduce). That's what they told me. Oh, and one other thing, some labs will do a color correction. Some do that automatically unless you specify not to. Others will only color correct if you specify. I've learned to make sure to read the fine print so to speak (no pun intended, lol). Thanks for another informative video!
For information Nigel, Nikon has just released a new firmware for the Nikon z5, which "revolutionizes" its autofocus which was already not that bad..
One word "Brilliant"
One thing I never got till recently is that when calibrating you have to set the target that the monitor aims for. It seems very hard to find much information about what that target should be, but the Canson paper YT channel was very good for this. Like what candela, what temperature to set etc etc. just saying’ calibrate your monitor’ is the tip of the iceberg really.
Awesome! What a great vlog. Thankyou
It's why I use a macbook pro 2022 16 inch ...it has a photography edit setting built in and it's.
100% accurate everytime
I did have a question what size file did you need to send? I know you said the largest file possible? But what was the file size? Is there a guide somewhere of how big or more importantly how small of a file is needed to go as big as one can ...thanks again so much
Great video and explanation and how to do printing! 👍🏻😄
Awesome video buddy, they look insane
A better way of saying it Nigel, the way we used to explain it to customers when I was involved in high end offset print work, is that we have to set up a custom ICC profile to translate the data within the image to print on our big presses, Komuri and Heidleburg, to replicate the color space used within the image as accurately as that press CMYK translation will be able to do.. To that ICC translation we match the ICC profile of the proofer(s) and calibrate out monitors. BTW, there's not much file size difference between HR JPEG and a Tiff LZW compressed. Most printer RIPs translate LZW on the fly, at least they did when I retired ten years ago, so it shouldn't be any issue.
Thanks for this Nigel. Your Enchanted Woods photo is one of my favourite photos.
I love Whitewall. They are my go-to company for printing. Love how your photos turned out!
Thank you for choosing us!
Really helpful video, thank you. Demystifying the alchemy that is printing and you've made it all very clear... Until I try it on my own! And by then I'll probably have forgotten everything. Your enthusiasm and excitement are contagious and I've shared your video with my camera club printing group (started because we're a bit wobbly about printing) So, thanks again.
Great video Nigel, thank you for sharing.
This is such a helpful video Nigel. I don’t print myself (would like to one day), but the info you provide is just great.
I especially like your advice to lower the monitor brightness to “four bars”! 🤪. So funny, and great to see you laugh at that!
Great explanation of color workflow. It’s a complex process, but critical if you want good prints. One of the things we say in the print business about printing CMYK is the fifth color is the paper. 👍👍
Randomly stumbled upon this video, and I’m grateful that I did. So much useful information on color profiles and print. Awesome video, and beautiful photos, mate! Truly inspiring.
Same.
They all look great Nigel!
Great video Nigel. Kudos for the (often ignored) section where you talked about choosing the right photo for the space. I’ve found there’s a class of photos that *only* look good on a backlit monitor, no matter how well lit your room space is. That huge acrylic print looks awesome.
Exactly what I was looking for, this video helped me a lot, thank you!
Super video. The entire process is comprehensive , very well explained and easy to follow.
Really enjoyed this. Watching your excitement displaying your own work is fantastic. You’re a lucky man, living the dream 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Superb photography. Great location. You made the most of the dull gloomy conditions.
Absolutely love the images in particular the jetty at the end in a minimalistic scene.
WANT IT! x
Amazing detailed info! Exactly what I needed!! Great vid!
Thanks for explaining ICC and printing. How prints turn out is one of the most frustrating things for me so I really appreciated this! As always you are a pleasure to listen to and your photos are amazing! Hope your back gets better soon!
Thanks for sharing this vlog Nigel, so very helpful and useful for printing! Absolutely marvellous images 😃👍🏻
Also ....it depends on what you print on ...in Australia metal prints are the go ..paper printing is slowing up. Canvas is dead ...metal and glass prints look great ...but the prints come up lighter than..why ..it's the process of how the ink is. I've spent time at the printing studio watching tne process. Great video Mark
Mark?
@@NigelDanson Oh sorry I got your name wrong because I was watching another video and replying to too comments. Sorry mate the video was really useful as well. It’s interesting. I’ve been going to my local printer and getting some work done as the printer is fantastic and I’m able to see the process. Love your work Nigel. Your work inspired me to do my own calendar as well this year, and that was really fantastic. Thank you so much for the guidance with your videos a lot of what you say really does help me
That was an excellent introduction to getting your images printed by a lab! Very enjoyable and informative
You could not have timed this video at a better time. I'm printing one of my prints for a friend they would like. I totally needed a refresher for printing and such. Brain fart on forgetting about soft proof in LR...haha Enchanted oaks is magical, the lake district one is fabulous Love them! Cheers!
Thanks You, timing was perfect, about to order some large prints. It certainly stopped me from making one mistake.
Thanks for this video. I especially liked how you explained how a picture displays on a monitor is not the same as on a paper. Made much more sense.
Awesome video, Nigel. It's what we all try to do but never quite get around to it. Well-structured approach to printing; looking forward to printing some on my own on metallic.
This super helpful! I love the technical breakdown. I have a client printing reproduction of her art. This is perfect.
Excellent Vid Nigel , very interesting and informative. I usually print my own but would like some bigger prints , always worried about using a lab in case the colours are out but I now have a bit more confidence to give it a go
What a marvelous tutorial I am so proud of you! Exemplary photographs
Beautiful prints!
Hi Nigel, I really enjoyed watching you go through all of this, it was so helpful. There was so much in this that I didn’t know about printing and lightroom, I have always wondered what an icc profile was but never had the courage to ask anyone in case I looked stupid or something, I was too embarrassed to ask ( I know, I should have asked ). A really useful video which I will watch over and over and see if I can improve my printing options and get a better output. Thank you for making this video and explaining things simply and so well 😁👍
Brilliant instructional video. I’ve just sent my first images to print lab for test, will use info from here for next print run. Thanks.
Thanks Nigel - fantastic explanation of colour spaces, which I knew nothing about! Better check my camera colour space setting too!
Terrific! Would love to see more videos about printing, both at home and with commercial vendors. Where to find the ICC profiles is always a bit of a challenge. Thanks!
Really helpful video, thanks Nigel.
You mention that after your monitor calibration, you set your monitor's brightness. Curiosity question: Does the Spyder not include brightness as part of the calibration? (I have a NEC monitor and use the NEC Spectravision software and brightness [intensity] is one of the variables I can set).
Looks fantastic, I'm jealous 🤭
I'm wondering, why use Adobe RGB and not the profile of your calibrated monitor?
This is super helpful Nigel. Like you, I have my own printer and print on FS papers. I have been keen to explore some of the metallic and aluminium prints. Thanks!
Calibrated monitor is #1 for sure. My monitor is 50% brightness matched with prints
This was a great video and I've saved it to refer back to in future. Please could you do something similar for the workflow when printing at home?
Ignore me, I've just been through your channel, and it's a trove of great information related to my request...doh!
Thank you Nigel , your printed photos look amazing. Loved all the different mediums, loved the acrylic, and metal. Recently I ran into a issue on resolution on a large print 30 x 60. The printer wanted 300 ppi, I noticed when you sent to processor you were like 240 ppi. Could you possibly do a follow up vid to this one about increasing the resolution, do you do in Photoshop, or LR? Etc etc. thanks so much Nigel.
Excellent video, very good explanation of the end to end printing workflow. One slight correction - cameras also have their own color space that they can capture within, and these can differ from sensor to sensor. The RAW files have information (color matrix) that lets software like Lightroom transform the raw data from the camera's color space into a standard color space like CIE XYZ, which then can be converted into working color spaces like ProPhoto RGB or Adobe RGB.
Brilliant images, and wow factor, I have a printer like you but put my prints on foam core or swap out images in frames I already have. I would love to have metal and acrylic prints but the cost is prohibitive for me and most photographers I would think? The cost of ink is ridiculous too. Framing is extremely expensive as well. I would hate to think what your printing bill would be?
Coming back to printing after a long layoff, and thiso vide arrived at a timely moment, so has been great revision material.
On your Apple monitor, what screen profile do you use? Is it the default profile that you turn down to 4 bars? I'm wondering if you have tried using 'Photography (P3-D65)' rather than the default as the docs say:
Use this mode for typical digital photography workflows. This mode uses wide colour P3 primaries with the D65 whitepoint typically used for screen-based viewing and is designed for appropriately set up and controlled viewing environments.
On this profile you cannot change the brightness of the screen, on the other hand it looks brighter than turning down to 4 bars.
Thank you for creating this video. I've struggled with printing my photos through a lab because I didn't know how to adjust for the different paper profiles. Armed with this new knowledge, I hope to have better results. Keep up the good work!
Very timely information, Nigel,as ever it’s been shown in an easy to follow way, perfect!
Re your clarity in explaining how to choose paper types, calibrate monitor etc., it has helped me tremendously. I’ve just started to choose for my own walls, re which images I will enjoy most. Really helpful. I can’t thank you enough.
Glad it was helpful!
Great informative production as always, I have used Whitewall and they are brilliant, as you said everything is packed well and their website is so easy to use. Thank you for the information on the options for printing
Thank you for your amazing feedback!
Fine video. I would like to see a follow up about B/W printing. I experienced that to be way more challenging, especially, when having a high dynamic range, details in the dark get so easily lost and I have not yet figured out a good way of creating print files for BW, also most of the times I have to make them wayyy brighter than in would look good on a screen to have it printed properly. All tips here are highly appreciated :)
You didn’t mention that you need to know what rendering intent the lab specifies for soft proofing with each ICC profile as ‘Perceptual’ and ‘Relative Colorimetric’ may look very different!
This was really informative.
Thanks Nigel for an excellent video helping to demystify things like colour space, It would be good if you took us through the steps that you use when you print on your own printer from Lighroom. Just another point, I don't remember you using the word AMAZING. Which was truly AMAZING.
The main difference between jepg and Tiff is that Tiff the white much more clearer and white. The jepg is more creamy.
Hi Nigel. I see as many video you run as I can, very interesting and very well conducted. At 20:48 I see you treat sharpening as a non relevant. I agree considering pre-sharpening process should be already but in your example the reference is to OUTPUT sharpen and it is referred to a SCREEN device, not a PRINTER. So, leaving it to a STANDARD value gives me a little bit of confusion: why apply a standard video sharpening output to an image i want to print? Sharpening for printing is quite interesting, imho, when you have heavy textured papers and/or big measure. Am I wrong?
Brilliant video Nigel, rather like your images, great step by step presentation on how to achieve a professional looking image , have thought about using Whitewall for prints and yours look fantastic, the packaging looked impressive too ,which shows they care about their customer's artwork.
Thanks!
Another great educational video. Congrats. Please for explanation - I have monitor without Adobe RGB color space. For printing should I choose sRGB or Adobe RGB? Thx
Fun fact: 4 bars on the Mac monitor backlight is about 25% and you can also dial fractions of the bars if holding Option+Shift while pressing up or down monitor brightness keys.
Should I put my X-T3 to Adobe-RGB when I want to print photos?
Great Video explaining color space and ICC profiles. I have played around with printer calibration and ICC profiles and they definitely improve the output but very impressed with your photos you hold up next to monitor and how close they are!! What type of light are you lighting the print with next to your monitor?
Thanks for the video Nigel; interesting you export your images from Lightroom before printing rather than use Lightroom’s Print module (which is what I do before uploading to a print lab). Perhaps it makes little difference in practice!
Thanks for the video. It’s funny I just ordered a metal proof of one of my pics from Whitewall yesterday. It’s my first time trying them out.
Hey! Thank you for your trust in us :)
Superbes tirages
Thank you Nigel for explaining the colorspace. When you print, do you crop for standard print formats or always print to custom dimensions?
Thanks for this. If one applies output sharpening when exporting, is that in addition to any sharpening during post processing?
I have a question regarding Fotospeed papers that I could not adequately resolve via a Google search. My understanding is that Fotospeed do not make their own papers, rather they access papers and then rebrand them and then sell. For instance I read that they sell a paper that is the exact same paper as Canson Platine. As Fotospeed is not really available in Australia I wonder if there is a price difference in the UK. I usually print on either Hahnemuhle or Canson. Certainly Hahnemuhle Photo Rag is a great paper. Are you able to shed any light.
Prints cost a fortune to matt and frame or be produced on other media. Happy for you. Lovely images as well. I do like the one where you walk Pebbles.
You could use a bit of colour on your walls as well. ;-)
Watch out for too much white as it's like having backlight. Some other colours on the walls can make your pics pop!
Very informative video Nigel. Now I need to get sell my house to afford the prints :)
Hi Nigel, thanks so much for this information. I'm just about to launch my website, but I was stuck on who to use for printing and packaging, I think whitewall might be the most convenient way to go. Thanks so much.
Helpful video as usual and great prints. I found the reflections in the glass a bit distracting though. Why not use non reflective glass?
Hi, do you use D65 or D50 when calibrate the monitor for prints? Thanks .
Very impressive photos and explanation of your workflow Nigel. One thing I was hoping you would address is how you set the brightness of your monitor. You mentioned four bars for the Mac, but didn't talk about how you chose the setting on your Benq. This is important as you noted because the monitor needs to somehow match the expected brightness of the prints. Even though I have my monitor calibrated every few months with the Spyder, I sometimes find my prints too dark and the shadows blocked up a bit, and that's with the monitor set at 50% brightness as suggested during the calibration. So, how do you set your brightness? Thanks Nigel!
Is the brightness setting on the Spyder5 software when calibrating the monitor too bright for printing?
Thanks for this video and congrats on landing a sponsor with Whitewall... have not tried them, but based on what I've read, they are among the best... question re: calibration (actually anyone else is welcome to answer, too): but for calibration brightness, what nits setting is best or at least has given you the most consistent printing results? Apparently the recommended range during calibration is somewhere between 80-120nits/cd2... I've kept my brightness somewhere in the middle of that range, actually 105 nits atm... what has continued to work for you? Second, is re: white point... D65 or D50? Most info I've come across recommend D65, but I am curious as to which white point you've used in your home printing....
Interesting questions… I would like to know the answers to your questions😊
What about softproofing? Just a question.
Viewing distance is another factor. Your hallways do limit the viewing distance. So big prints do not come out there.
Apologies if this is covered in another video, I just discovered your channel, but I'd love some general guidelines on choosing the medium. As in, when would you choose metal over acrylic over just paper? Matte or glossy? Etc. That's probably really subjective, but your opinions would be really invaluable!
Hiii... Can you please tell me how to get perfect borders and crops for pics ??? N the crop used and all???
This really helped me in my printing...really struggling getting my prints to match. Had calibrated screen, used ICC profile but always having to adjust my print in Canon Print software to get anywhere near the screen. Did the ICC Soft Proof in LR and now spot on and do not have to adjust in Canon Print software. Saved my bacon :D Thanks.
Nigel if I just have a camera and no computer can I have large prints made onto any surface from SD cards.
Thanks for the video - great explanations! Can you please explain why you export in Adobe RBG and not ProPhoto RBG? Why not export in ProPhoto since it covers more of the spectrum?
Great video! What width is your hallway? I have a hallway about 2 1/2’ wide and never hanged frames there as I thought the hallway was too narrow 😩
Great video; very helpful
How would it differ if I’m am editing with LR on my iPad?
Around 11:00, the conversation around large print size in a narrow corridor totally neglects to account for an old artistic concept, of viewing distance appropriate to the image size. Imagine a photo taken through a window, then printed and hung next to the window - there is only one proper size that recreates in the viewer's eye the effect of looking through the window, where lens focal length matches what the eye sees. Larger or smaller prints, or different viewing distances, affect the mind's intuitive perception of the scene as right, or off. We have become so oversaturated by myriad images, usually large to gigantic, that the sense of correct proportion has been demolished, and too many images that can't be viewed from a correct distance end up being decorative wallpaper. It is sometimes subtle, but when understood the effect can be near-magical, even in black and white.
It's funny how Nigel's entire display or the entire image window in LrC went darker including the white around the print-preview when you switched paper type to Fuji Pearl. This suggests to me that the paper is less white and LrC's proofing wants you to see that effect.
Look at what happens when you switch from that to baryta paper.
What many people do not realise is how the paper's whiteness determines its maximum dynamic range (contrast envelope) and to some extent colour space too. Generally, in printing, the black is determined by your inks and printer settings but the white at the other end comes from the paper. Pure white without detail in a print is plain paper without ink.
Yep - I was going to mention that but video was already too long
Great video, Nigel. Can I ask you is that a live edge desk top you have? In addition to photography I've just taken up woodworking!
Great video Nigel. A quick question……when you profile your monitor, how do you use the lights in your room/ studio? Do turn all lights off, Close any curtains or blinds or do you leave the lights around you on? Always wondered about this. 👍📸
The light in my Computer/print room is 5500K I always have it on.....I calibrate the screen with it on, once calibrated if my prints look darker I turn my screen brightness down to match...then brighten image in LR before exporting...it seems to work very well for me !
Great video, Nigel! You hit a nerve with me on this one as I've been wondering how to prepare a file suitable for faithfully printing my images. I do have one concern, though.
The ICC profile that my printing service sent me is CMYK and Lightroom will not support it. Do you know what can be done in this case?
I love White wall, just wish they had a shop in USA…
Hey! We have a store in New York! We produce everything in Germany but we ship worldwide! We would love to welcome you as a part of our community in the future :)
@@whitewall all ready am ! Have a few prints from you folks. Why no printing in the USA?
@@thomassorensen9749 We only have one production and that is in Germany - but we ship worldwide!
Nigel, very nice informative video, Loved seeing the before and after, the prints look amazing. This is probably just me, but it has become a pet peeve of mine, and mostly want to know what others think. And that is when a photographer spends the time and effort to get prints just right, with fine art paper with all of the amazing textures that are part of the paper itself. then to display behind any glass material it loses that richness. For example when I go to an art museum or an exhibition and in order to see a print, I have to fight for a good angle just to see the print because of the reflections, and by the time I actually see the print the impact is mostly gone. I know there are protective sprays, and why they are not used.....thanks for any thoughts from anyone and Thanks Nigel
You can get "museum glass" which is basically regular glass with a non-reflective coating, similar to what we have on our camera lenses. Not sure if Whitewall has this, but it is much more expensive than regular glass. I think they also have acrylic with the same coating, also expensive. I've used it on occasion and it does do a great job knocking down reflections--worth it if you need some sort of glazing or protection, IMO.
Great video Nigel, and much of the mystique associated with printing has disappeared. The one thing that still bothers me is the monitor brightness - is mine too bright or not? I have calibrated my monitor using a Spyder and usually process using Lightroom in the late evening where there is no ambient light. I've got a couple of images that I'd like to get printed on acrylic glass, however it feels prudent to perhaps do a couple of test prints first - one maybe with +1/3 stop exposure and a second at +2/3 stop. Interested in your thoughts or the other folks on this chat...
Hi Nigel your videos are fantastic, very helpful, just one question, how do i load the icc profiles from White Room into Lightroom?
Hope you can find the time to help on this.
COOL