What you said at 0:55 is not true. The Hasselblad 1600f was released in 1948. The Bentzin Primarflex, Kochmann Reflex-Korelle and the similar Eichapel Noviflex were all released in 1935. These all used 120 medium format roll film. There were of course also earlier SLRs using plates (and maybe even roll film, but this is quite old history, so i am not certain about that)
I stand corrected! I found a few sources saying it was the first, and have never seen a comprehensive list of cameras (for obvious reasons) to verify that. I've pinned your comment, cheers.
But it was the first modular mf SLR. 👌 You may be able to add a line of text as an edit, once already published/online. I am still learning about this. It is a very good presentation. Thanks for the work you have put into this. I will post links to it when appropriate. ☆☆☆☆☆
Thanks Kevin! That may be it, then. Unfortunately the type of caption you're thinking of was killed off by TH-cam so pinned comments are all we can work with.
one other point, the Hasselblad HCD lenses (H bodies-6x4.5 format) do have faster leaf shutters, at 1/2000th for normal shutters, and a special orange square designation series even goes up to 1/8,000th, for studio splash or sport photography.
at 13:40 there is a workaround for this 'CON', ie the purchase of an E12 or E12cc back, these have a plastic slide holder on them, so giving a place to store it safely.
I have this camera, as well as the 203FE and an extensive 500 system. I have seen a lot of Hasselblad camera reviews, since the beginning of TH-cam. This stands out as .. 🏆
Thank you Kevin! Do you find yourself handling/thinking of the 500 bodies and 203FE differently? I never owned a 500 series so I'm always curious how people view these setups.
that mode 0 you describe at 8:03 is useful, when you have the CFVii50C or the CFV100/s digital backs on, it allows use of the e-shutter in those backs, set the lens to F mode, and you have a straight light path, so essentially a MF dslr! but I do get the point, as having the "shutter" close afterwards does provide some sensor protection from dust when changing lenses, etc. also allows Live view, to assess exposure, or meter flash with these cameras.
I used to own one sold it relatively quickly. The big issue is lack of parts, and that titanium shutter is super fragile, and super hard to replace. I had mine replaced in 2020, d the only person i could find was in italy. Cost me $550 and i consider myself lucky. I still have my 500cm however and am very happy
I have the 50 MP CFV for the Hasselblad 907x. I'm extremely curious how this camera will pair up. I've experimented with 500cm cameras. I'm curious because of the electronic nature of this one.
they DO work, I don't have one myself, but researching them, one thing to note, if the body (2000/200 series) has a pc-sync socket on it, it ONLY works in other modes than C, this (c-mode) shuts off all shutter functions in the body, this INCLUDES this socket, so you need to connect the back to the lens pc-sync !! so the back gets its latency (fire) signal from the LENS (if using the leaf shutter). Also you need to specify the body type connected, so the back knows what is triggering exposure, if a flash is connected, etc. one IMPORTANT point, if you use flash, DON'T connect right to a speedatron, or other power pack style system (including broncolor/profoto), use a IR trigger as the 300/400V this system uses for the capacitor charge sometimes is the 'fire' voltage too !!, and isolating this sensitive electrical device from it, will save any damage due to rouge high voltages in this ancient system (older studio flash, broncolor/profoto are safer, with a fuse to protect cameras, but its best to be sure!- they are $7K or in the case of phase One, $20K to purchase new!, so better to stay safe, esp. if the back is rented, or isn't yours).
Hey! Big fan of your work. Does the 200 series (203FE, 205TCC for example) work in C-mode with C-lenses without any batteries? I understand it's not the case for the 2000 FC/M but I keep finding threads online assuring that the 200 series can. Thanks!
it's 1AM now, and I'm starting to have ideas again, so I returned to this video and rewatched it, but still I couldn't figure out this: is possible to use a 2000-series camera with a broken shutter with a leaf shutter lens? I keep retuning to the idea of getting a deal on a 2000fc with a broken shutter, and just removing it to use it with a leaf shutter lens, and I need you to say difinitevely that this isn't possible, to put my mind at rest :)
Even if not used for exposure, the shutter curtains protect the film from exposure to light while you compose. Without them, you'd just be exposing the film with stray light that gets around the mirror through the lens and finder! It's why the leaf shutter bodies still have the "barn door" auxiliary shutter. So no dice, sorry.
@@Shaka1277 yeeeeah, that's a bummer, but thanks for your answer! It's perplexing to me how Hasselblad had to devise a barn door system when mirror already blocks most of the ligth - just make a bit more effort and make it lighttight duh. After all, I can't think of any other leaf-shutter MF system that does things this way. But now the Hasselblad cult of repairability makes a bit more sense 😏
If it makes you feel any better, it's not just Hasselblad. My SL66 came with a pinhole in the first curtain and enough light was getting around the mirror to expose the film a smidge in between shots.
@@Shaka1277 Ever since making that comment I've impulsively bid and won an auction with an untested 2000 fc/m. So the only thing that would make me feel better is if it arives completely functional 😅 The other thing would be finally getting your review of the SL66 and figuring out how Rollei managed to make a mirror mechanism that works with the lens protruding so heavily inside the body of the camera.
great explanation, but in addition, the 205FCC body has a ML mode (Manual, LONG exposure mode)- by depressing the buttons in a sequence it turns the 1" to 30 sec and the 1/2000 to 2000" or 30 minutes!! now that's a LOOOOONNNNGGGG exposure 🙂
@@Shaka1277 yes, that is also a feature of the Phase One XF camera, to be able to lock up the mirror, also for LV operation, depends which viewfinder you prefer, LV, or the Prism finder (needing the mirror down); but for the XF I think this is part of the E-shutter/focal plane\leaf debate, which you use, for what purpose.
Hey - great video, thanks for sharing! Is there anywhere locally in Ireland that will service or CLA this sort of kit or do you have to send it abroad?
As far as I know there are no places to service the 200/2000-series anymore. Worldwide that is. Might be wrong, but that is the reason I sold my 201-F kit i favour of the 500-series. I’ve had the 2000-FC, 2000-FCM, 2003-FCW and lastly the 201-F. Great lenses, albeit a bit on the heavy side.
John Kasawa specializes repairing focal plane shutter bodies in Thailand , CLA, electronics , shutter, everything regarding the F/FE bodies. So there is no need to find a donor :)
> quick-release plate. And no, this is not arca-swiss compatible- I unfortunately found this out fiddling around with a tripod in a shop… thankfully didn’t drop it!
It's a pity the paint is quite vulnerable, and when it chips off, there's a dull metal underneath.. chrome is a lot more durable. Then again, repainting is easy.. rechroming on the other hand :) (saying this as I have a black 501C :) ... and if you ever want to use one of the newer digital backs, unfortunately they are chrome only).
What you said at 0:55 is not true. The Hasselblad 1600f was released in 1948. The Bentzin Primarflex, Kochmann Reflex-Korelle and the similar Eichapel Noviflex were all released in 1935. These all used 120 medium format roll film. There were of course also earlier SLRs using plates (and maybe even roll film, but this is quite old history, so i am not certain about that)
I stand corrected! I found a few sources saying it was the first, and have never seen a comprehensive list of cameras (for obvious reasons) to verify that. I've pinned your comment, cheers.
But it was the first modular mf SLR. 👌
You may be able to add a line of text as an edit, once already published/online. I am still learning about this.
It is a very good presentation. Thanks for the work you have put into this. I will post links to it when appropriate. ☆☆☆☆☆
Thanks Kevin! That may be it, then. Unfortunately the type of caption you're thinking of was killed off by TH-cam so pinned comments are all we can work with.
Dang, this was both a wonderful and informative review. Thank you, sir! You got a new subscriber. 👌🙏
Been waiting for this one since the Gigantor review! Great video!
the 2000 series is amazing... especially since they are actually affordable
Thank you, this was super informative!
one other point, the Hasselblad HCD lenses (H bodies-6x4.5 format) do have faster leaf shutters, at 1/2000th for normal shutters, and a special orange square designation series even goes up to 1/8,000th, for studio splash or sport photography.
at 13:40 there is a workaround for this 'CON', ie the purchase of an E12 or E12cc back, these have a plastic slide holder on them, so giving a place to store it safely.
I have this camera, as well as the 203FE and an extensive 500 system.
I have seen a lot of Hasselblad camera reviews, since the beginning of TH-cam.
This stands out as .. 🏆
Thank you Kevin!
Do you find yourself handling/thinking of the 500 bodies and 203FE differently? I never owned a 500 series so I'm always curious how people view these setups.
that mode 0 you describe at 8:03 is useful, when you have the CFVii50C or the CFV100/s digital backs on, it allows use of the e-shutter in those backs, set the lens to F mode, and you have a straight light path, so essentially a MF dslr! but I do get the point, as having the "shutter" close afterwards does provide some sensor protection from dust when changing lenses, etc. also allows Live view, to assess exposure, or meter flash with these cameras.
I used to own one sold it relatively quickly. The big issue is lack of parts, and that titanium shutter is super fragile, and super hard to replace. I had mine replaced in 2020, d the only person i could find was in italy. Cost me $550 and i consider myself lucky. I still have my 500cm however and am very happy
I have the 50 MP CFV for the Hasselblad 907x. I'm extremely curious how this camera will pair up. I've experimented with 500cm cameras. I'm curious because of the electronic nature of this one.
they DO work, I don't have one myself, but researching them, one thing to note, if the body (2000/200 series) has a pc-sync socket on it, it ONLY works in other modes than C, this (c-mode) shuts off all shutter functions in the body, this INCLUDES this socket, so you need to connect the back to the lens pc-sync !! so the back gets its latency (fire) signal from the LENS (if using the leaf shutter).
Also you need to specify the body type connected, so the back knows what is triggering exposure, if a flash is connected, etc.
one IMPORTANT point, if you use flash, DON'T connect right to a speedatron, or other power pack style system (including broncolor/profoto), use a IR trigger as the 300/400V this system uses for the capacitor charge sometimes is the 'fire' voltage too !!, and isolating this sensitive electrical device from it, will save any damage due to rouge high voltages in this ancient system (older studio flash, broncolor/profoto are safer, with a fuse to protect cameras, but its best to be sure!- they are $7K or in the case of phase One, $20K to purchase new!, so better to stay safe, esp. if the back is rented, or isn't yours).
You're an asset to the community with this breadth of info!
Hey! Big fan of your work. Does the 200 series (203FE, 205TCC for example) work in C-mode with C-lenses without any batteries? I understand it's not the case for the 2000 FC/M but I keep finding threads online assuring that the 200 series can.
Thanks!
Sorry but I can't help there - I've never even seen a 200 series in person!
The 2000FC/M needs battery to operate all C type lenses. The 2000FC/W on the other hand can operate C lenses without power. Don’t know about 200s.
it's 1AM now, and I'm starting to have ideas again, so I returned to this video and rewatched it, but still I couldn't figure out this: is possible to use a 2000-series camera with a broken shutter with a leaf shutter lens?
I keep retuning to the idea of getting a deal on a 2000fc with a broken shutter, and just removing it to use it with a leaf shutter lens, and I need you to say difinitevely that this isn't possible, to put my mind at rest :)
Even if not used for exposure, the shutter curtains protect the film from exposure to light while you compose. Without them, you'd just be exposing the film with stray light that gets around the mirror through the lens and finder! It's why the leaf shutter bodies still have the "barn door" auxiliary shutter. So no dice, sorry.
@@Shaka1277 yeeeeah, that's a bummer, but thanks for your answer! It's perplexing to me how Hasselblad had to devise a barn door system when mirror already blocks most of the ligth - just make a bit more effort and make it lighttight duh. After all, I can't think of any other leaf-shutter MF system that does things this way. But now the Hasselblad cult of repairability makes a bit more sense 😏
If it makes you feel any better, it's not just Hasselblad. My SL66 came with a pinhole in the first curtain and enough light was getting around the mirror to expose the film a smidge in between shots.
@@Shaka1277 Ever since making that comment I've impulsively bid and won an auction with an untested 2000 fc/m. So the only thing that would make me feel better is if it arives completely functional 😅
The other thing would be finally getting your review of the SL66 and figuring out how Rollei managed to make a mirror mechanism that works with the lens protruding so heavily inside the body of the camera.
What is your "standard" film stock ? And what are you shooting, most of the time ? Thank you
In 120? Mostly Gold or Kentmere 400. My nicer films are usually Pan F and Ektar. In 35 mm it's all over the place.
@@Shaka1277 Thank you
great explanation, but in addition, the 205FCC body has a ML mode (Manual, LONG exposure mode)- by depressing the buttons in a sequence it turns the 1" to 30 sec and the 1/2000 to 2000" or 30 minutes!! now that's a LOOOOONNNNGGGG exposure 🙂
I've never even seen a 200 series in person, I knew I would have missed a few bits. Thanks for this and the other comments - especially about mode 0!
@@Shaka1277 yes, that is also a feature of the Phase One XF camera, to be able to lock up the mirror, also for LV operation, depends which viewfinder you prefer, LV, or the Prism finder (needing the mirror down); but for the XF I think this is part of the E-shutter/focal plane\leaf debate, which you use, for what purpose.
Hey - great video, thanks for sharing! Is there anywhere locally in Ireland that will service or CLA this sort of kit or do you have to send it abroad?
As far as I know there are no places to service the 200/2000-series anymore. Worldwide that is. Might be wrong, but that is the reason I sold my 201-F kit i favour of the 500-series. I’ve had the 2000-FC, 2000-FCM, 2003-FCW and lastly the 201-F. Great lenses, albeit a bit on the heavy side.
Definitely nowhere in Ireland. Very few places will touch these cameras nowadays.
John Kasawa specializes repairing focal plane shutter bodies in Thailand , CLA, electronics , shutter, everything regarding the F/FE bodies. So there is no need to find a donor :)
Who did you have to murder to get 400H and Velvia? Fuji film has been out of stock literally everywhere i looked for months
I owned this camera for years and those are old photos, that's all. No such luck getting those Fuji stocks now!
> quick-release plate. And no, this is not arca-swiss compatible-
I unfortunately found this out fiddling around with a tripod in a shop… thankfully didn’t drop it!
Oooooopsie
Black Hasselblads are way cooler than chrome!
It's a pity the paint is quite vulnerable, and when it chips off, there's a dull metal underneath.. chrome is a lot more durable. Then again, repainting is easy.. rechroming on the other hand :) (saying this as I have a black 501C :) ... and if you ever want to use one of the newer digital backs, unfortunately they are chrome only).
If anyone know where I can get mine serviced comment below! 😂