Make Rail Anvil with Thicker Horn

Today's video is about keeping the rail anvil's horn as strong as I can make it without welding more material onto it. Most makers of Railroad Rail anvils do several things that make the horn weaker. Here, I try an unconventional approach, making a rail anvil that is kinda backwards to produce a thicker horn.
Here's my webpage that is dedicated to Rail Anvils and the way I make them:
spaco.org/Blac...

[@zdzisawk5198]

Blacksmith! What a beautiful mans job. I suppose very difficult. My respect

[@dozernmike2423]

That's an awesome backwards anvil

[@thrustprop67]

thanks for your input ,,, I think I will do as you suggest and stick with the original electronics ,,, again thanks for your help

[@MrOldclunker]

I have a couple of rails I use for rough forging of some metals but I prefer to use my anvils instead of shaping a rail into an anvil. It appears to be a lot of work and I like the width of my anvils. They all have a purpose and routinely used. I'd say every shop could benefit from having a piece of rail handy for cutting and rough work.

[@thrustprop67]

Hello,,, this question is from your comment on the TH-cam video from Daze Cars about
Variac as a Treadmill Motor Power Supply
You commented "You might also point out that these things do not have a separate secondary winding which means that their outputs are NOT isolated from the power line. A major safety concern to be considered." I was thinking of building a control using a Variarc setup like the video ,,, but don't understand the safety concern ,,,, what could happen if their outputs are not isolated from the power line ??????????? Thanks in advance ,,,sounds important and I don't want to burn my house down or fritz the tv or computer

[@frenchcreekvalley]

As far as I know, most treadmill motors are powered by direct current. And most of the controllers that power the motor are run from DC (direct current) too. Normally this direct current is derived from the secondary winding of a transformer which IS isolated from the power line. Since this isolation has already been done, the designers don't have to worry about shock hazards that could arise if wires become frayed, internal components fail or short, etc., etc., etc.. So, I guess, if NOTHING EVER went wrong with the treadmill, the house wiring, the user cutting off the ground pin of the power plug, and whatever, you might get away with the variac. But, do you want to bet your life on it? And, as long as the motor and all the controls are housed inside the treadmill you might be okay. But I'll bet that the reason we are having this discussion is BECAUSE you are going to re-purpose that motor outside of its original housing. That brings your risks up higher, says I.
Why not simply stick with the controller that came with the treadmill?, says I to myself. There are plenty of them adoring the sidewalks of America these days.
I hope this helps.

[@williamemerson1799]

Question a bit off topic. I have a Peter Wright, about 136#, that has a delaminate on one corner of the heel. I have a welding machine just not sure how to approach the repair without causing damage to the tempering of the rest of the face. Do you or anyone else have any suggestions?

[@frenchcreekvalley]

I suggest that you google "repair anvil face".
I just did it and the first link that came up sounded pretty good to me:
blacksmithu.com/how-to-repair-restore-old-anvil/

[@williamemerson1799]

@@frenchcreekvalley Thanks very much. Lots of good info there. Unfortunately nothing about delaminations. I believe it's best just to leave well enough alone. Thanks again.
Enjoy your channel by the way.👍🍻

[@petermurphy6085]

How did you do the Hardy hole mate

[@frenchcreekvalley]

See this video:
th-cam.com/video/5aNUFc9_ki0/w-d-xo.html