So I just changed only the rear shocks on my 2009 Sonata and had the same sticky bottom shock you did. I used a dremel, drill and blowtorch to remove the lower shock, surprising because we rarely salt the roads here. While installing the new shock, the lower portion didn’t seem to fit. It would not slip onto the smooth part of the bolt. I compared it to the old shock and it seemed to have the same diameter. I tried installing it sideways just to see if the shock would slide over the bolt at a different angle. It worked. I ended up having to jack up the suspension to get the bolt at the correct angle so I could slip the shock into place and onto the bolt (I added some anti-seize to the lower portion of the shock in case I have to do this again in the future ). I then realized it was the bad angle of the bolt that prevented the old shock from just sliding off and I’m wondering if that was the case for you too!? I did the other side armed with this knowledge and it took me about 20 minutes. Much faster than the 3 hours I spent on the first shock.
Hey man thanks so much fro making this video I completely redid my girls front suspension and couldn’t find a good video for the rear, you provided me with a great video !
My 09 was so rusted I decided to drop the whole sub frame and do a full rebuild. Found a replacement subframe in the junkyard for 75 dollars. Between rock auto and OEM I was able to get this thing near new. Additionally, since the subframe was removed, I was able to inspect the evap system. I discovered my evap canister was clogged. The donor car from the junkyard had a serviceable canister for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Over all, easy project but time consuming.
Thankfully not a lot of rust on mine. Just the lift points on the rear are kinda bad tho. I have a code for a small evaporator leak and replaced the fuel pump cause it was cracked. Sadly the light came back on and I don’t have a smoke machine so it probably won’t get fixed. These can be good cars as long as you’re willing to take care of them. At least I’m hoping cause my main car was totaled a year ago.
Mine needs to be done. Pretty much clapped them completely. Rear tires wear super uneven from inside out and handling around bends is horrendous. Don't see a lot of videos for the 06-07 sonatas. keep posting content 👍
Cool my first comment, thanks 👍🏻. I’m trying to make videos of things that aren’t already on TH-cam. Bit harder than I thought. I still have to do the front struts and upper control arms sometime this year, so I’ll try and film that.
Thks for that vid...Great stuff...BTW how many miles on that 07 ? Question : the lower control arm bolt(not the nut) on mine doesnt want to spin/unscrew from his respective bushing on driver side...Any recommendation for me other than heating and destroying that lca bushing ?...mine is an 09 Limited (4 cyl) ...similar to 07 or 08 sonata Maybe I could disconnect the upper control arm(at his point of attachment with the knuckle I mean the ball joint ) and lower the whole knuckle/lower arm assembly and remove the spring...Do U see any further issue(s) with that approach ? p.s. I have no air tools...no air hammer..only electric power impact tool . My schock is already disconnected from the knuckle
Mileage is around 183,000. As far as your seized bolt goes, it may require more tools to try and remove it. An air hammer would probably be your best bet and if that doesn't work you take the cutting saw to it and cut the bolt, but you would still need the air hammer to punch the rest of the bolt out of the bushing. As far as disconnecting every other arm from the knuckle and removing the spring. I don't see why that wouldn't work. As long as nothing is stopping the knuckle and lower control arm from moving down to remove the spring you should be fine. It would just be more work, you also run the risk of other parts being seized and potentially damaging something else. I'm going to link another video to someone I watch that may give you an idea as to what it takes to removes seized bolts from bushings. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes. th-cam.com/video/w7rYxh0XWuA/w-d-xo.html
Do you think you would have removed the shock without the air hammer? I don't have air tools. I have the same map torch, a Milwaukee m12 die grinder with metal cutoff wheels, and small 2 arm gear puller. Will those work? Also, were you on you back working on the rusted shock from underneath or from the top.
Since you have a cutoff wheel you should be fine. You just have to be careful you don't damage the part the shock mounts to. Also the gear puller might work if it's long enough. Really the most important thing is heat. You could cut the bottom of the shock in 2 places to get it off the vehicle. That way you can get to the bushing and metal sleeve underneath. You could also melt the bushing with the torch. All you're trying to do is get to the metal sleeve that gets stuck. Once you are there you should be fine. And yes I was on my back underneath the vehicle. If you need any help just message me.
I'm possibly doing it in a few days. Before I start on it I've been soaking the shock mount with PB blaster 2 times a day for 5 to 6 days. I hope it will help me cause I dont have a torch or cut off wheel. The car has 298,000miles and nothing hasn't been touched yet
I put new rear coil spring and its at a angle not straight i turned it so many times and its still at a angle what a nightmare it wont go on straight for anything i tried for hour's and still nothing hardest suspension job ever on this car any advice on how toget the coil spring on straight
Best advice I can give you is to make sure the spring is seated in the lower control arm the correct way. There should be a spot where the end of the coil meets a raised section in the seat and you shouldn't be able to turn it after that. Once is seated correctly just lift the control arm up with a jack to get the shock back into place. It will be a bit crooked until you get everything back together. Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
For future use, you could use a paint marker or chalk and draw a line straight down the coil spring before taking it off, then line the old and new spring up matching the top and bottom ends of each one, then draw the line on the new one in the same spot. That should line it up when putting back in.
I bought mine from Rockauto, was the cheapest place. Here is the part number I used: ACDELCO 45K8098. Any more questions feel free to ask, I'll try and help.
You do a good job but you skip some very important parts of the video like the trouble you run into getting the coil spring on straight and lining up the control arm after gettimg the coil spring installed most people have never did this before and they run into problems the first time they do it you cant leave anything out of the video do the job from start to finish with out fast forwarding it who cares how long the video is we are beginners amd missing one step can turn the job into a nightmare of someone is board because the video is to long than they should take their car to a shop and pay to get it fixed its a good video and thanks for posting it but please don't fast forward or skip parts
This is the first video I every edited and it was over 20 minutes. Part of the reason some stuff was skipped was due to the video editor crashing. Also trying to film and actually do the work turned out to be harder than I thought. But I agree with your criticism, I hate it when repair videos skip around and don't show the work, but for this being my first video I did the best I could. You left that comment about a month ago about not getting the spring back in right and I told you what to do to fix it. Did that not help? Also would have gladly answered more questions unlike other people who upload these types of videos and never respond to anyone.
@@Lifetime3211 you did a good job especially for your first time and the info you gave me a month ago did help thank you again i know its hard editing for the first time most people that make videos on TH-cam skip stuff i got my car fixed because of your video you will be 95% ahead of most you tubers making videos if you don't leave anything out thanks buddy keep making videos you are off to a good start you will get better everything is hard the first time you do it thanks for responding i wish you success
You don't have to remove the shock to get to the spring. Just remove the bolt for the lower control arm and you can move it down enough to remove the spring.
So I just changed only the rear shocks on my 2009 Sonata and had the same sticky bottom shock you did. I used a dremel, drill and blowtorch to remove the lower shock, surprising because we rarely salt the roads here.
While installing the new shock, the lower portion didn’t seem to fit. It would not slip onto the smooth part of the bolt. I compared it to the old shock and it seemed to have the same diameter. I tried installing it sideways just to see if the shock would slide over the bolt at a different angle. It worked. I ended up having to jack up the suspension to get the bolt at the correct angle so I could slip the shock into place and onto the bolt (I added some anti-seize to the lower portion of the shock in case I have to do this again in the future ).
I then realized it was the bad angle of the bolt that prevented the old shock from just sliding off and I’m wondering if that was the case for you too!?
I did the other side armed with this knowledge and it took me about 20 minutes. Much faster than the 3 hours I spent on the first shock.
Bro, do car videos more. Shits fire. And helpful.
Wish I could but don't have a garage to work on them anymore.
Hey man thanks so much fro making this video I completely redid my girls front suspension and couldn’t find a good video for the rear, you provided me with a great video !
what do U mean by ur girl friend front suspension ?
Great content I will never sell my 09' sonata I study your vids like a college course.
Thank you.
My 09 was so rusted I decided to drop the whole sub frame and do a full rebuild. Found a replacement subframe in the junkyard for 75 dollars. Between rock auto and OEM I was able to get this thing near new. Additionally, since the subframe was removed, I was able to inspect the evap system. I discovered my evap canister was clogged. The donor car from the junkyard had a serviceable canister for a fraction of the cost of a new one. Over all, easy project but time consuming.
Thankfully not a lot of rust on mine. Just the lift points on the rear are kinda bad tho. I have a code for a small evaporator leak and replaced the fuel pump cause it was cracked. Sadly the light came back on and I don’t have a smoke machine so it probably won’t get fixed.
These can be good cars as long as you’re willing to take care of them. At least I’m hoping cause my main car was totaled a year ago.
Mine needs to be done. Pretty much clapped them completely. Rear tires wear super uneven from inside out and handling around bends is horrendous. Don't see a lot of videos for the 06-07 sonatas. keep posting content 👍
Cool my first comment, thanks 👍🏻. I’m trying to make videos of things that aren’t already on TH-cam. Bit harder than I thought. I still have to do the front struts and upper control arms sometime this year, so I’ll try and film that.
Thank you sir
The reason it so hard to put the new shock on is because the original shock has a angle built in for the angled stud , the new shocks are straight .
they make struct compressor tool ... threaded rod s to pinch it down in size
Thks for that vid...Great stuff...BTW how many miles on that 07 ? Question : the lower control arm bolt(not the nut) on mine doesnt want to spin/unscrew from his respective bushing on driver side...Any recommendation for me other than heating and destroying that lca bushing ?...mine is an 09 Limited (4 cyl) ...similar to 07 or 08 sonata Maybe I could disconnect the upper control arm(at his point of attachment with the knuckle I mean the ball joint ) and lower the whole knuckle/lower arm assembly and remove the spring...Do U see any further issue(s) with that approach ? p.s. I have no air tools...no air hammer..only electric power impact tool . My schock is already disconnected from the knuckle
Mileage is around 183,000. As far as your seized bolt goes, it may require more tools to try and remove it. An air hammer would probably be your best bet and if that doesn't work you take the cutting saw to it and cut the bolt, but you would still need the air hammer to punch the rest of the bolt out of the bushing.
As far as disconnecting every other arm from the knuckle and removing the spring. I don't see why that wouldn't work. As long as nothing is stopping the knuckle and lower control arm from moving down to remove the spring you should be fine. It would just be more work, you also run the risk of other parts being seized and potentially damaging something else.
I'm going to link another video to someone I watch that may give you an idea as to what it takes to removes seized bolts from bushings. Hope this helps, let me know how it goes.
th-cam.com/video/w7rYxh0XWuA/w-d-xo.html
Do you think you would have removed the shock without the air hammer? I don't have air tools. I have the same map torch, a Milwaukee m12 die grinder with metal cutoff wheels, and small 2 arm gear puller. Will those work?
Also, were you on you back working on the rusted shock from underneath or from the top.
Since you have a cutoff wheel you should be fine. You just have to be careful you don't damage the part the shock mounts to. Also the gear puller might work if it's long enough. Really the most important thing is heat.
You could cut the bottom of the shock in 2 places to get it off the vehicle. That way you can get to the bushing and metal sleeve underneath.
You could also melt the bushing with the torch. All you're trying to do is get to the metal sleeve that gets stuck. Once you are there you should be fine.
And yes I was on my back underneath the vehicle. If you need any help just message me.
I'm possibly doing it in a few days. Before I start on it I've been soaking the shock mount with PB blaster 2 times a day for 5 to 6 days. I hope it will help me cause I dont have a torch or cut off wheel. The car has 298,000miles and nothing hasn't been touched yet
@@anthonygermano2696 Did it come off easily?
I put new rear coil spring and its at a angle not straight i turned it so many times and its still at a angle what a nightmare it wont go on straight for anything i tried for hour's and still nothing hardest suspension job ever on this car any advice on how toget the coil spring on straight
Best advice I can give you is to make sure the spring is seated in the lower control arm the correct way. There should be a spot where the end of the coil meets a raised section in the seat and you shouldn't be able to turn it after that. Once is seated correctly just lift the control arm up with a jack to get the shock back into place. It will be a bit crooked until you get everything back together.
Let me know how it goes. Good luck.
@@Lifetime3211 thank you good advice i will do what you said and i will let you know how it turns out thanks for taking the time to respond
For future use, you could use a paint marker or chalk and draw a line straight down the coil spring before taking it off, then line the old and new spring up matching the top and bottom ends of each one, then draw the line on the new one in the same spot. That should line it up when putting back in.
I can't find the springs anywhere but they look the same as the front spring on the struts. Where did you get them?
I bought mine from Rockauto, was the cheapest place. Here is the part number I used: ACDELCO 45K8098. Any more questions feel free to ask, I'll try and help.
@@Lifetime3211 thank you
You do a good job but you skip some very important parts of the video like the trouble you run into getting the coil spring on straight and lining up the control arm after gettimg the coil spring installed most people have never did this before and they run into problems the first time they do it you cant leave anything out of the video do the job from start to finish with out fast forwarding it who cares how long the video is we are beginners amd missing one step can turn the job into a nightmare of someone is board because the video is to long than they should take their car to a shop and pay to get it fixed its a good video and thanks for posting it but please don't fast forward or skip parts
This is the first video I every edited and it was over 20 minutes. Part of the reason some stuff was skipped was due to the video editor crashing. Also trying to film and actually do the work turned out to be harder than I thought. But I agree with your criticism, I hate it when repair videos skip around and don't show the work, but for this being my first video I did the best I could.
You left that comment about a month ago about not getting the spring back in right and I told you what to do to fix it. Did that not help?
Also would have gladly answered more questions unlike other people who upload these types of videos and never respond to anyone.
@@Lifetime3211 you did a good job especially for your first time and the info you gave me a month ago did help thank you again i know its hard editing for the first time most people that make videos on TH-cam skip stuff i got my car fixed because of your video you will be 95% ahead of most you tubers making videos if you don't leave anything out thanks buddy keep making videos you are off to a good start you will get better everything is hard the first time you do it thanks for responding i wish you success
Rhx amigo
Do you have to remove the shock if you just want to replace the spring?
You don't have to remove the shock to get to the spring. Just remove the bolt for the lower control arm and you can move it down enough to remove the spring.