With regard to the cables, as an electrician, THANK you for thinking of them Roger... so many times we find cables bundled together and on the HOT side of the insulation... 9 times out of 10 it's fine, ( BS7671 is remarkably conservative in cable ratings) but ... a little thought for other trades bears fruit down the line. Job we're on right now, the plumber asked if we needed any floors leaving up, and even helped us out by pointing out a few routes he'd spotted (1750s listed building so the fewer new holes we make, the better). As a reward, he now has sockets connected temporarily to the new wiring wherever he needs them for mixing (he's also doing the tiling/grouting) etc. (we also make him coffee when we have one lol)
It never ceases to amaze me just how many tradespeople think of a contract as "Them and us", rather than "We're all in it together." Worked on numerous contracts where someone on my crew will ask "Why are you bothering to do that? Just let *insert trade* sort it out." They always seem to have trouble understanding the concept that if you look out for the other people working a different part of the contract, they will be more inclined to help you out... Exactly like your temporary socket (and perhaps far more importantly, cups of coffee :p ) example.
@@damionlee7658 I think the attitude of 'they're trying to make my life difficult' is embedded within the british building industry. Frankly it's depressing. We're all trying to do the same job: get it done for the client.... And yes, I think he does indeed appreciate the coffee more lol
@@damionlee7658 This is a great subject for a blog. I think people who are inconsiderate or habitually are trying to make life difficult for others are carrying a weight that they need to let go. If you are a happy person you want to make others happy and in so doing will become happier yourself. Without wishing to get too political I see some politicians who are motivated solely by a hatred of the other side.
Just a tip to improve sound deadening, make sure there is an air gap on both sides of the Rockwool. Eliminating as many physical connections between the areas trying to sound isolate is critical.
So you're recommending that the Rockwool to not be touching directly against either wall joists as well as any drywall itself? How would one mount/install the Rockwool in such situations?
I been using this for a bit of time and its really good i am I the middle of upgrading my home with it and i will always say spend the money to get it and you never regret it really great stuff to use great job
Thanks Roger, novice female here. I need to soundproof a crawl space between properties and also a chimney. What can I use to wrap around rock wool to prevent rodents etc and protect it? Thanks for any advice, doing best on a budget. Ali
I am redoing my home and this is what is going in it. #16 for the outer walls and #15 around the kitchen and bathroom where water and fire can be. It is $50. for 8 panels, but well worth it. I am on disability, but will save to put the good stuff in. My place is in front of railroad tracks and trains come all hours. Need the sound proofing.
Hi Roger, love the vids. Any advice when installing led downlighters in the ceiling with rockwool. Can you strap the insulation above, do you need covers or is it fine to have the insulation around the downlight as it's non combustible? Many thanks
@Darwin Darwin hi, didn't get a response and decided not to insulate in the ceiling in the end. I've got Kingspan in an extension ceiling that I just cut away to install downlights. Sorry can't be any more help
Rodger which Rockwool did you use in the ceiling. I'm thinking of using WR3 to reduce the sound travel from downstairs. Would I be right in saying this the best for sound deadening.
@@SkillBuilder Thanks for the quick reply, if it means I don't have to listen to my grandchildren downstairs that will do me just fine. Ps enjoying the videos, better than the rubbish on TV.
Great video. I'm planning the insulation for the walls of a Victorian solid brick house. If using Rockwool on solid walls (internally), can it be fitted directly to the brickwork? I'd like to save space so prefer not to have an air gap between brick and Rockwool.
@@SkillBuilder thanks for your reply Roger, why wasn't concrete block used, and is there a padstone? Only asking as it seemed labour intensive in comparison. Love the content! 👍
@@alabinibop whatever the structural engineer recommends really but the pier takes it to the foundations, a padstone will still put weight onto the thermalites
yes but it is likely that the road noise will be travelling through air gaps so it is important that you seal all those gaps before laying the Rockwool Soundslab in. Try to fit it as snugly as possible.
In a cavity of 200mm deep.. do we need 100m sound insulation slabs or 200mm (x2 layers)? I was told the whole void needs to be filled but juts not finding evidence to back this claim up.. Is 100mm adequate you think? Also would we need another 100mm perhaps for thermal insulation? Can this be placed directly on top? Very confused! Please help
It is better to fill the void if you can but not essential. The sound slab is more dense so it is not so good at thermal so if you need thermal better to use one of each.
Hi Roger, thanks for the video. I have a question regarding insulation. We had a dodgy builder who has installed cheap insulation into a pitched roof below our study room. At times it feels like a window is opened. Would rockwall insulation be a better solution? Would love you to visit to maybe have a look and correct this for us and video this the channel. Happy to discuss further if your interested.
A quick plumbing question..i have hep2o pushfit pipes in my kitchen..it was freezing weather 3 days ago,i noticed a damp spot in the corner of the wall (dot n dab)were there is an elbow..the hot tap would not allow water through for about 5 seconds then it was flowing fine.if the water froze in the pipe and the elbow leaked a little,will the fitting be rendered useless? or as the damp spot has dried and its not leaking will it have reseated itself back into position..i hope so..have i got lucky or will i have to open up the corner and replace the elbow?..any thoughts..cheers.
Hi Roger, any advice for insulation between boiler flu in kitchen cupboard and bedroom above. The flu goes through the space between ceiling and floor? Gets noisy in the bedroom when boiler is firing! Any advice? Thanks
Yes you can do it but it won't do that much if the walls aren't insulated in between the studs. You will get some warming of the surface but the heat loss through an uninsulated timber frame will be huge.
@@SkillBuilder so I should strip back the walls to check for insulation, if there is insulation I should be OK with going straight over that with insulated plasterboard, if not strip it all back and insulated both frame and reboard it yeah
@@SkillBuilder would I be just better off going with external wall eps insulation and get a render on top, thanks so much for answering my question, love your channel
@@markchristopher6889 I would remove an electrical socket and see what is behind he back box. If it has insulation in there then fine. If not I would think about that area first. You may find they can blow in some mineral wool and then you could put the thermal board up over the plasterboard to form an additional layer and give a vapour barrier. The last thing you want it moisture migrating through and condensing on the cold side of the insulation. Don't rush into this job because there are lots of mistakes you can make with the dew point.
I had exactly the same problem on my self build even after taking your advice on mortar ratios on the 35A extension video. Surely it affects the Structual integrity of the wall? Many thanks again for the great educational videos you make.
@@stevewilliams2413 aircrete blocks are notrious for cracking. Provided the wall ties are in it is not a huge problem because the cracks take place in areas where there is no load so the typical under window crack would be the same as if the window were a door. I have decided not to use aircrete anymore partly because the client gets concerened when they see the cracks.
Steve Williams totally agree Roger we only use plasma fibre lites now because of the cracking problem with these blocks and as you say the concern on the clients faces think they think your trying to pull a fast one. I actually got the rep from thermalite to explain this to a client on one project to satisfy his worries. Amazingly their reps do not admit they have a problem with there product !!!
I'm sure it is true that rock wool is a good fire barrier, but it's sound insulating effectiveness is almost exactly the same as plain ordinary fiberglass insulation.
Hi Jim Do you have figures to back that claim up? The structure of Soundslab is closed. Thermal insulation is full of air and sound travels through air. I have seen tests between the two and I know an acoustic engineer who specifies it on Multiplex cinemas. I will ask him why he wastes the clients money on something that doesn't work.
@@SkillBuilder Sure. Google "IR-693 National Research Council" to see the results of a Canadian government study on soundproofing. The report contains lots of info on materials and methods, like thickness of drywall, double-sheets of drywall, framing methods and also compares the Sound Transmission Coefficients (STC) of glass fiber and mineral fiber. The STC for mineral fiber is 45, while glass fibre is 46. So they are almost exactly the same.
@@jimroth7927 Hi Jim It is not the raw material it is the way it is formed into insulation. That is where the engineering comes in. I can see how you made your mistake now. The density of Soundslab is completely different. Thermal insulation is all about trapping air so it is blown and those air paths let through sound. You need to look at the test results for the products not just the STC. It is all there in black and white, no disputing it. This product works.
@@SkillBuilder I can also tell you that I personally fell for the rock wool soundproofing scam. After removing the ceiling in a suite, removing the pink fiberglass, putting in expensive rock wool, replacing the drywall, mudding, sanding and painting the results were... no freaking difference. That is why I went looking for research on this and found that science proved long ago there was no difference.
Remember beards and stubble means respirators will not work as intended by manufacturers. You have to be clean shaven to be safe with single use respirators
This is one of most no skill builder tips everything in general is fine but how important is gaps and thing that rookwool shouldnt be striked in between joist
I really like your videos and have great respect for your abilities but in this instance you seem to have been sucked in by some dubious marketing on the part of the insulation manufacturers. I have no idea why thermal insulation is required in upper floor construction and to suggest it can prevent the spread of fire is nonsense. All insulation (in Australia and presumably in the UK) is required to be non combustible so I can't see what this material offers over and above other forms of insulation. Fire ratings can only be achieved with use of fire rated plasterboard. As for sound attenuation; putting rockwool or fiberglass between the joists is going to achieve practically nothing - certainly no more than than 1 or 2 db reduction. The main source of noise between floors is from impact loadings and vibration -usually from feet, and to effectively provide worthwhile isolation requires mechanical separation - usually in the form of separate framing for the floor and ceiling although resilient mounts between the joists and ceiling battens are also fairly good. Usually these systems also require multiple layers of ceiling lining (plasterboard?) as well. Insulation should be provided in conjunction with these methods but on its own, it's almost worthless.
Hi Richard. I respect your views and appreciate you taking the time to contribute but in this instance you need to do some more research. We have had some bad fires in the U.K recently and this has brought the whole subject into sharp focus. The fire resistance of plasterboard is greatly improved by having a backing of dense Rockwool behind it. There are lots of tests to back this up and nobody with any knowledge disputes this. As for sound insulation we are of course talking about airborne sound rather than structural noise and the dense makeup of the Rockwall Sound Slab has a huge effect on this kind of sound. You are right to say it will do nothing in this application to reduce impact noise but it certainly cuts down on the sound of next door's television and love making. I have discovered pathways where a tiny gap was left and through this you can hear conversations. Close the gap and all is quiet. There is no dubious marketing involved here, the U.K Building Regs require this so we aren't talking about a choice.
Hi Roger, We could debate the whys and wherefores of this type of thing forever but the reality is that there appear to be significant differences between what is done in the UK and what we do here in Australia. I am now retired but I did spend my entire working life in the Architectural profession - mainly on the technical side of the industry. In Australia the two major suppliers of plasterboard have very extensive design manuals which contain numerous wall, ceiling and ceiling/floor systems which have all been tested and approved by the controlling authorities. I don't know if such a thing is available in the UK but you can download the information from their websites. It makes interesting reading. Having said that, no form of insulation is going to improve the fire resistance rating of a wall or ceiling system. The fire barrier has to protect the framing for it to be effective - even non fire rated plasterboard does a reasonable job of that but obviously not as successfully as the fire rated product. As for sound insulation, there has always been a misconception that insulation material provides a good barrier when provided in a wall or ceiling cavity. It doesn't. At best it may contribute an additional 2 db to the rating but given the human ear can't perceive anything less than 3 db change in sound levels it can only be considered as part of any given system. Sound isolation requires the barrier to have density. Insulation is effective in absorbing sound but does very little in preventing its transmission. As I said above, there appear to be significant differences between UK and Australian building regulations and in spite of our differences, I like to think that we have got the balance fairly right. It is this difference however that leads me to question things like this. Keep making your videos - I do genuinely enjoy them.
@@kelstra1997 your taking nonsense look at the British Gypsum whitebook system selector, dry lined walls & ceilings sound & fire performance are enhanced when mineral wool is included in the cavity. Yes you can improve both fire & sound insulation using specialist fire or sound plasterboards but they are more expensive. In this situation adding mineral wool above a standard wallboard will give the desired performance & will be cheaper.
Nothing worse than insulation day (especially when the tight-fisted developer won’t spend the extra 50p to upgrade glass wool to rock wool.. ) Absolutely DREADING Monday! 😆
Rubbish, any open cell insulation including loft roll will dissipate sound waves the denser it is the less it will aborb sound waves. Low frequency sound needs a minimum of 45kgm3 and high frequencys are easily absorbed with 19kgm3
With regard to the cables, as an electrician, THANK you for thinking of them Roger... so many times we find cables bundled together and on the HOT side of the insulation... 9 times out of 10 it's fine, ( BS7671 is remarkably conservative in cable ratings) but ... a little thought for other trades bears fruit down the line.
Job we're on right now, the plumber asked if we needed any floors leaving up, and even helped us out by pointing out a few routes he'd spotted (1750s listed building so the fewer new holes we make, the better).
As a reward, he now has sockets connected temporarily to the new wiring wherever he needs them for mixing (he's also doing the tiling/grouting) etc. (we also make him coffee when we have one lol)
It never ceases to amaze me just how many tradespeople think of a contract as "Them and us", rather than "We're all in it together."
Worked on numerous contracts where someone on my crew will ask "Why are you bothering to do that? Just let *insert trade* sort it out." They always seem to have trouble understanding the concept that if you look out for the other people working a different part of the contract, they will be more inclined to help you out... Exactly like your temporary socket (and perhaps far more importantly, cups of coffee :p ) example.
@@damionlee7658 I think the attitude of 'they're trying to make my life difficult' is embedded within the british building industry. Frankly it's depressing. We're all trying to do the same job: get it done for the client....
And yes, I think he does indeed appreciate the coffee more lol
@@damionlee7658 This is a great subject for a blog. I think people who are inconsiderate or habitually are trying to make life difficult for others are carrying a weight that they need to let go. If you are a happy person you want to make others happy and in so doing will become happier yourself. Without wishing to get too political I see some politicians who are motivated solely by a hatred of the other side.
The ppe.. I find it restricting the glasses steam up I can hardly breath through the mask think … I’m doing this task now it’s tough 😮💨
Just a tip to improve sound deadening, make sure there is an air gap on both sides of the Rockwool. Eliminating as many physical connections between the areas trying to sound isolate is critical.
So you're recommending that the Rockwool to not be touching directly against either wall joists as well as any drywall itself? How would one mount/install the Rockwool in such situations?
@@montag4516 No, just try to get a gap between the rockwool and the drywall/finish wall covering. Rockwool will be snug up against studs.
Thanks. I'll be installing some for the first time, in my home, tonight.
@@montag4516
How did it go ?
I been using this for a bit of time and its really good i am I the middle of upgrading my home with it and i will always say spend the money to get it and you never regret it really great stuff to use great job
Thanks Roger, novice female here. I need to soundproof a crawl space between properties and also a chimney. What can I use to wrap around rock wool to prevent rodents etc and protect it? Thanks for any advice, doing best on a budget. Ali
30 seconds in and I’m already itching
Funnily enough I got the same feeling watching it.
I chuckled my ass off. Thanks
Reminds me of my exploited labouring days.
Any updates coming up skill builders about " the extension " ?
Hi Roger, loving this series. Were there any more videos on this project? The playlist seems to end here, rather abruptly! Cheers.
I am redoing my home and this is what is going in it. #16 for the outer walls and #15 around the kitchen and bathroom where water and fire can be. It is $50. for 8 panels, but well worth it. I am on disability, but will save to put the good stuff in. My place is in front of railroad tracks
and trains come all hours. Need the sound proofing.
Hi Roger, love the vids. Any advice when installing led downlighters in the ceiling with rockwool. Can you strap the insulation above, do you need covers or is it fine to have the insulation around the downlight as it's non combustible? Many thanks
Great question. Did you get a reply, and what did you do in the end ?
@Darwin Darwin hi, didn't get a response and decided not to insulate in the ceiling in the end. I've got Kingspan in an extension ceiling that I just cut away to install downlights. Sorry can't be any more help
what are the peeping eyes about at 1.27 in the window behind roger!!!
Creepy
Need an explanation lol
Zephy Redway in every video they hide a face of a monkey I think, seen it in a few videos now think it's a running joke haha
1:26 What’s that at the window??
Rodger which Rockwool did you use in the ceiling. I'm thinking of using WR3 to reduce the sound travel from downstairs. Would I be right in saying this the best for sound deadening.
Yes that it the one but it will only stop airborne noise
@@SkillBuilder Thanks for the quick reply, if it means I don't have to listen to my grandchildren downstairs that will do me just fine. Ps enjoying the videos, better than the rubbish on TV.
I thought I was seeing things at 1:26
Looks like a Barbary Macaque you find on Gibraltar. How about it Roger ???
It's the build inspector.😀
thermal first or sound first? same question for walls and ceilings, thanks
Can you install rock wool around IP65 down lights?
Great video. I'm planning the insulation for the walls of a Victorian solid brick house. If using Rockwool on solid walls (internally), can it be fitted directly to the brickwork? I'd like to save space so prefer not to have an air gap between brick and Rockwool.
I wouldn't do that, you need an air gap to keep moisture out of the house, if you have no air gap, that moisture will bridge to your inner walls.
Great video, love the channel 👍🇺🇸
Roger, are you available for a telephone consultation at all? Kindest regards
Thanks Roger great tutorial👍
Great insight, thanks Roger!
any tips for retrofitting sound insulation in a 50s terrace
Hi Roger, can you tell me why there is brickwork between the thermals at the beginning please??
It is a brick pier to support two large steel beams that support the back and side of the house
@@SkillBuilder thanks for your reply Roger, why wasn't concrete block used, and is there a padstone? Only asking as it seemed labour intensive in comparison.
Love the content! 👍
@@alabinibop whatever the structural engineer recommends really but the pier takes it to the foundations, a padstone will still put weight onto the thermalites
The drawing showed a brick pier and the brickie did it in very short time. Builder.
@@SkillBuilder but did it negate the need for a padstone?
Nice one Roger, great heads up 👍
Is Rockwool acoustic slab appropriate to use on the attic floor? We’re trying to prevent road noise seeping through the attic floor into the bedrooms.
yes but it is likely that the road noise will be travelling through air gaps so it is important that you seal all those gaps before laying the Rockwool Soundslab in. Try to fit it as snugly as possible.
Roger alot of people saying this stuff is like the new asbestos can you do a video on it please. people say things but some actual data would be nice.
In a cavity of 200mm deep.. do we need 100m sound insulation slabs or 200mm (x2 layers)? I was told the whole void needs to be filled but juts not finding evidence to back this claim up.. Is 100mm adequate you think? Also would we need another 100mm perhaps for thermal insulation? Can this be placed directly on top? Very confused! Please help
It is better to fill the void if you can but not essential. The sound slab is more dense so it is not so good at thermal so if you need thermal better to use one of each.
Hi Roger, thanks for the video. I have a question regarding insulation. We had a dodgy builder who has installed cheap insulation into a pitched roof below our study room. At times it feels like a window is opened. Would rockwall insulation be a better solution? Would love you to visit to maybe have a look and correct this for us and video this the channel. Happy to discuss further if your interested.
I would advise putting my mask on top of the Rockwool unless it was in a sealed pack - good video though mate 👍
Good advice
Would you recommend that insulation for under a house between the joists?
Rockwool has different products for different applications. The one shown here is for interior-facing only and isn't rated for thermal insulation.
A quick plumbing question..i have hep2o pushfit pipes in my kitchen..it was freezing weather 3 days ago,i noticed a damp spot in the corner of the wall (dot n dab)were there is an elbow..the hot tap would not allow water through for about 5 seconds then it was flowing fine.if the water froze in the pipe and the elbow leaked a little,will the fitting be rendered useless? or as the damp spot has dried and its not leaking will it have reseated itself back into position..i hope so..have i got lucky or will i have to open up the corner and replace the elbow?..any thoughts..cheers.
If you can get hold of a thermal imaging camera it may help to identify the problem without opening anything up.
It could be condensation. I doubt that it froze in that short time. Leave it for a while.
Thank you : )
Does this sound insulation also offer good thermal properties to keep the heating in rooms. Which model is it
Great informative stuff as usuall roger ,
We learn every day mate,?.,👍
Thanks roger, great stuff mate,cheers,
Hi Roger, any advice for insulation between boiler flu in kitchen cupboard and bedroom above. The flu goes through the space between ceiling and floor? Gets noisy in the bedroom when boiler is firing! Any advice? Thanks
Hi I have a 1960 timber frame bungalow, can I put insulated plasterboard directly onto the plasterboard on the external wall
Yes you can do it but it won't do that much if the walls aren't insulated in between the studs. You will get some warming of the surface but the heat loss through an uninsulated timber frame will be huge.
@@SkillBuilder so I should strip back the walls to check for insulation, if there is insulation I should be OK with going straight over that with insulated plasterboard, if not strip it all back and insulated both frame and reboard it yeah
@@SkillBuilder would I be just better off going with external wall eps insulation and get a render on top, thanks so much for answering my question, love your channel
@@markchristopher6889 I would remove an electrical socket and see what is behind he back box. If it has insulation in there then fine. If not I would think about that area first. You may find they can blow in some mineral wool and then you could put the thermal board up over the plasterboard to form an additional layer and give a vapour barrier. The last thing you want it moisture migrating through and condensing on the cold side of the insulation. Don't rush into this job because there are lots of mistakes you can make with the dew point.
@@SkillBuilder thanks so much for your reply
Do you insulate as well?
If you need thermal insulation then that is what you use but this is for deadening sound and slowing down fire between rooms
Is that a crack in the thermalite blocks under the window? Great video as always.
Yes they crack all the time under windows due to shrinkage. I hate them
I had exactly the same problem on my self build even after taking your advice on mortar ratios on the 35A extension video. Surely it affects the Structual integrity of the wall? Many thanks again for the great educational videos you make.
@@stevewilliams2413 aircrete blocks are notrious for cracking. Provided the wall ties are in it is not a huge problem because the cracks take place in areas where there is no load so the typical under window crack would be the same as if the window were a door. I have decided not to use aircrete anymore partly because the client gets concerened when they see the cracks.
Steve Williams totally agree Roger we only use plasma fibre lites now because of the cracking problem with these blocks and as you say the concern on the clients faces think they think your trying to pull a fast one. I actually got the rep from thermalite to explain this to a client on one project to satisfy his worries. Amazingly their reps do not admit they have a problem with there product !!!
I wonder if trench blocks have the same problem 🤔
You are cool 👍🙋♀️
I'm sure it is true that rock wool is a good fire barrier, but it's sound insulating effectiveness is almost exactly the same as plain ordinary fiberglass insulation.
Hi Jim
Do you have figures to back that claim up? The structure of Soundslab is closed. Thermal insulation is full of air and sound travels through air. I have seen tests between the two and I know an acoustic engineer who specifies it on Multiplex cinemas. I will ask him why he wastes the clients money on something that doesn't work.
@@SkillBuilder Sure. Google "IR-693 National Research Council" to see the results of a Canadian government study on soundproofing. The report contains lots of info on materials and methods, like thickness of drywall, double-sheets of drywall, framing methods and also compares the Sound Transmission Coefficients (STC) of glass fiber and mineral fiber. The STC for mineral fiber is 45, while glass fibre is 46. So they are almost exactly the same.
@@jimroth7927 Hi Jim
It is not the raw material it is the way it is formed into insulation. That is where the engineering comes in. I can see how you made your mistake now. The density of Soundslab is completely different. Thermal insulation is all about trapping air so it is blown and those air paths let through sound.
You need to look at the test results for the products not just the STC. It is all there in black and white, no disputing it. This product works.
@@SkillBuilder I can also tell you that I personally fell for the rock wool soundproofing scam. After removing the ceiling in a suite, removing the pink fiberglass, putting in expensive rock wool, replacing the drywall, mudding, sanding and painting the results were... no freaking difference. That is why I went looking for research on this and found that science proved long ago there was no difference.
@@SkillBuilder No, the research council testing was done with the finished products installed in test walls. Result, no difference between the two.
Does somthing like this stuff exist in liquid form? 👍👍👍👍😜🇨🇭
Remember beards and stubble means respirators will not work as intended by manufacturers. You have to be clean shaven to be safe with single use respirators
Very true! Learned this the hard way!
So only women and children should be installing insulation. Got it.
How come not all ceiling boards are fire boards?
We used fire resistant under the steel. We did not have to but a hob is going there so it gives a bit more protection.
You can double up standard board too.
@@gdfggggg Yes but double tacking board with staggered joints is not as easy as using fireboard. Besides I like the pink.
@@SkillBuilder you can get them in a range of fetching colours you know.
Is it just me that sees the weird face top left corner at 1:15?😂
yers just you, have a lie down in a dark rrom
Yeah I saw a gorilla’s face
I hate putting that stuff in
its funny how the second guy is not wearing full PPE lol
You hope you see us again soon and I hope you keep making enough money from this so we can. ;)
This is one of most no skill builder tips everything in general is fine but how important is gaps and thing that rookwool shouldnt be striked in between joist
Harps on about ppe then instantly shows a young lad with nothing on lol
Crazy Eyes
They use rockwool in hell as bedding
Bloody hell Roger, i`m glad i don`t work with you - you`ve got all the PPE and your mates only got a mask!!!! lol
Ha! I did the main ceiling and then filmed him. He doesn't even like the mask but I insisted on that at least.
@@SkillBuilder The joys of being young. He'll get more careful when bits of him start to hurt lol
I really like your videos and have great respect for your abilities but in this instance you seem to have been sucked in by some dubious marketing on the part of the insulation manufacturers. I have no idea why thermal insulation is required in upper floor construction and to suggest it can prevent the spread of fire is nonsense. All insulation (in Australia and presumably in the UK) is required to be non combustible so I can't see what this material offers over and above other forms of insulation. Fire ratings can only be achieved with use of fire rated plasterboard. As for sound attenuation; putting rockwool or fiberglass between the joists is going to achieve practically nothing - certainly no more than than 1 or 2 db reduction. The main source of noise between floors is from impact loadings and vibration -usually from feet, and to effectively provide worthwhile isolation requires mechanical separation - usually in the form of separate framing for the floor and ceiling although resilient mounts between the joists and ceiling battens are also fairly good. Usually these systems also require multiple layers of ceiling lining (plasterboard?) as well. Insulation should be provided in conjunction with these methods but on its own, it's almost worthless.
Hi Richard.
I respect your views and appreciate you taking the time to contribute but in this instance you need to do some more research. We have had some bad fires in the U.K recently and this has brought the whole subject into sharp focus.
The fire resistance of plasterboard is greatly improved by having a backing of dense Rockwool behind it. There are lots of tests to back this up and nobody with any knowledge disputes this.
As for sound insulation we are of course talking about airborne sound rather than structural noise and the dense makeup of the Rockwall Sound Slab has a huge effect on this kind of sound.
You are right to say it will do nothing in this application to reduce impact noise but it certainly cuts down on the sound of next door's television and love making.
I have discovered pathways where a tiny gap was left and through this you can hear conversations. Close the gap and all is quiet. There is no dubious marketing involved here, the U.K Building Regs require this so we aren't talking about a choice.
Hi Roger,
We could debate the whys and wherefores of this type of thing forever but the reality is that there appear to be significant differences between what is done in the UK and what we do here in Australia. I am now retired but I did spend my entire working life in the Architectural profession - mainly on the technical side of the industry.
In Australia the two major suppliers of plasterboard have very extensive design manuals which contain numerous wall, ceiling and ceiling/floor systems which have all been tested and approved by the controlling authorities. I don't know if such a thing is available in the UK but you can download the information from their websites. It makes interesting reading.
Having said that, no form of insulation is going to improve the fire resistance rating of a wall or ceiling system. The fire barrier has to protect the framing for it to be effective - even non fire rated plasterboard does a reasonable job of that but obviously not as successfully as the fire rated product.
As for sound insulation, there has always been a misconception that insulation material provides a good barrier when provided in a wall or ceiling cavity. It doesn't. At best it may contribute an additional 2 db to the rating but given the human ear can't perceive anything less than 3 db change in sound levels it can only be considered as part of any given system. Sound isolation requires the barrier to have density. Insulation is effective in absorbing sound but does very little in preventing its transmission.
As I said above, there appear to be significant differences between UK and Australian building regulations and in spite of our differences, I like to think that we have got the balance fairly right. It is this difference however that leads me to question things like this.
Keep making your videos - I do genuinely enjoy them.
@@kelstra1997 your taking nonsense look at the British Gypsum whitebook system selector, dry lined walls & ceilings sound & fire performance are enhanced when mineral wool is included in the cavity. Yes you can improve both fire & sound insulation using specialist fire or sound plasterboards but they are more expensive. In this situation adding mineral wool above a standard wallboard will give the desired performance & will be cheaper.
Nothing worse than insulation day (especially when the tight-fisted developer won’t spend the extra 50p to upgrade glass wool to rock wool.. )
Absolutely DREADING Monday! 😆
It didn't work for me I still can hear my neighbours noise!
It is likely that you have structural sound transimission. Please watch the video we are putting out tonight to see how hard it is to cut out noise.
Rubbish, any open cell insulation including loft roll will dissipate sound waves the denser it is the less it will aborb sound waves. Low frequency sound needs a minimum of 45kgm3 and high frequencys are easily absorbed with 19kgm3
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