What a refreshing video. A guy that is intelligent but humble and doesn't act like he knows everything like some other popular YT reloading presenters. A guy that doesnt just tell you to do something but tells you to think about the process and explains how he has puzzled it out.
OMG, this makes all of the sense in the world and something I was never aware of and was under the belief (since 1986) that once fired brass was indeed fire formed to my chamber! Thank you Greg for taking the time and effort educating your viewer's on overlooked basics.
This is good stuff and comes at a good time for me. I just recently went to mechanical ejectors, and I had no idea how setting up sizing was creating a problem at the head and the business end of the cartridge. It all makes perfect sense after watching this video. Very good instruction, and I sure do appreciate it. I’ve never heard this anywhere else.
Thanks for this Greg. This makes sense, and will quite possibly account for differences I have seen in shoulder bump in brass used for load development in particular. I had always thought that once brass had been fired it was fully fire formed. Just ordered a CPS so really glad I saw this.
Very good information. note; My comparator is different than your comparator and is different than your friends. Your numbers are your numbers. Make sure you are always using the same comparator.
I learn a lot every time I see a video like this! Thank you for teaching me what has cost a lot of time and effort to learn! If anyone is reading this I wish to help out as well. Recently I have noticed my comparator gauges were not contacting at the start of the shoulder, I was using the cheap knockoffs that look like the Hornady ones, and I can now say don't use the cheap knock offs because they cause nothing but headaches. Sadly it's very much buy once cry once or prepare for constant headaches when it comes to measurement tools. I had similar issues with the plunk test blocks you get on amazon as well. I had several .223 pass the amazon plunk block with zero issue and flat out mortar my ar15 so I bought the Hornady one and I have not gotten that issue since then.
@@primalrights Hey Greg! wow this video just helped me so much with figuring out my crazy es/sd numbers, and my shoulder bump. Anyhow, quick question, I have an original Bald Eagle primer seater. Whats your opinion of them? It adjusts in 1 thou increments and has worked seemingly well for me.
Looks like I have something to watch with my scotch tonight, thanks for all the info again Greg! Setting my CPS up on the inline fab bases tomorrow! Cheers,
Awesome video Greg! Super interesting stuff there. Would love to see you do a video on how you clean barrels and how often. Very controversial subject lol but I’m torn between Eric cortina’s system and only cleaning the carbon every hundred rnds or couple hundred rnds.
Even when my cases are fire formed, and need resizing based on bolt fit (without pin/ejectors), I will set my die at exactly .002" bump (based on E. Cortina's scotch tape trick); and the bump amount will vary between cases without changing the set up! Nosler 28 brass 3x fired. They almost never grow in length at the neck/mouth. Using Redding Competition F/L die on CoAx.
Dear Greg, My understanding is that the incositancy of the ignition is caused by the pressure pushing the primer out faster than the brass can catch or swell in the chamber creating if you will a solid launching base for the bullet to address the lead and riflings. So the brass is moving the primer is moving the constancy of the internals of the brass is changing and the harmonics of the receiver action and barrel are different every time to some degree. Correct? I haven’t seen this video yet but I have to been a primer/headspace timing correlation nerd for a few years now and found it had profound effects on my es/sd and long range effectiveness. You were the only person I’ve ever heard speak of it in the 30 years of my reloading.
I wouldn't say that inconsistency of ignition is caused by the pressure pushing the primer out. After all, once the reaction has been initiated, we rely on the uniformity of components to behave in a predictable manner. So as long as we start ignition the same way, in the same place, at the same time for each round, we then have to relinquish ourselves to things beyond our control... such as the brass metallurgy. Regardless, as long as we've set everything up uniformly, then the same thing should happen each time, resulting in a stable harmonic. That's essentially the whole point of what we're doing. So when the primer is inserted to exactly the same distance from the firing pin/bolt face each time... when the cartridge ignites, it will get pushed back at the same velocity for the same distance each time... and the internal capacity of the case will also be the same each time. Uniformity, produces uniformity. :) Interesting thought none the less, and I congratulate you for thinking on it.
Anyone complaining about what a AR does to brass has never fired a HK/G3 style rifle. That is if you can even find the brass from the HK as it propels it into lower orbit. :) Seriously though this video got me thinking. I thought I had my brass sized correctly. Thought I had allowed it to grow till the bolt would not close, shave off a tho and Im good to go. Well I just took a piece of range brass that the headspace was 3 tho longer then what I shoot. So I carefully sized it NOT disturbing the headspace length on the case. Well my bolt CLOSED on it! Thanks for the education, I got some brass growing to do apparently! Merry Christmas!
You make a great case to bring back electric ignition primers. Knowing this is VERY unlikely to happen I am paying attention to not only this video but have watched yours and Eriks talk twice now. (thick Norwegian skull plate. LOL) Even though I am not an F class trigger squeezer I still like to make em go where the crosswire is.
Late to the party. If your gonna run a spring/plunger extractor and want to fire form your brass would it be better to run your bolt with the plunger removed for a few firings until you have a tight fit brass to chamber.
One simple trick to determine zero headspace is to take a once fired case and put a new primer in it and shoot the primer 💡 The primer will blow out and fill the gap . Measure with your HeadspaceGuage as usual and index on the blown out primer ,this is your zero tolerance headspace 😉 Usually this method gives around one thousand extra length so that the case have a slightly sticky feeling to close and open the bolthandle . You can subtract that one thousand from the mesure to establish the zero value.
In your conversation with Eric, if I remember correctly, you said the primer pocket grows with each firing. Could you elaborate a little more on this and how it affects optimal primer seating depth?
You mentioned measuring headspace with micrometers and calipers. What is your opinion on having something like a Redding Instant Indicator in a turret press to check headspace during the process?
That certainly can work. Bottom line is that whatever method you're using, it needs to be repeatable, and your measuring tool needs to demonstrate it is accurate.
Did a little test on the primer depth on my reloads and found better grouping at 5 mil on primer from 0 to 6 mil. Shoulder FL at 1.5640 from 1.5660 or 1.5665.
What about belted magnums, like a .300 Win-mag? I heard that they headspace off the belt, does the the extraction and ejection method make a difference with this case style? Also, are you now dealing with headspace in 2 seperate areas? At the belt and at the shoulder?
Depends on the tolerance of the belt vs the chamber... yet this is one big reason why I try to avoid belted cases. You're also correct, that there is a "secondary" headspace that needs to be dealt with. Not a fan.
What if ……. the shoulder on new brass is pushed forward with a hydraulic form die… then set back gradually with the sizing die until correct / desired headspace is set? A lot of extra brass prep for sure…. But headspace would be consistent for every loading of the piece of brass!
One more question: What is the AVERAGE number of rounds fired when working up a load from finding where pressure lives to the final primer seating depth?
I'd say it takes me a solid 300-350rnds to complete a total workup. It is imperative that you have at least 200rnds on the barrel before fine tuning the load and proofing it.
Try running your cases through the rifle after your shoot. Some cases will be very hard to close. Some medium and some very easy. The tight ones are the ones that you set your shoulder bump on. Once set up, run the lot (all of them) through the sizing die.
OK. I have two new boxes of Lapua brass and a mechanical ejector. I have tested them in the chamber and there is zero resistance on the bolt when closing. Should I stick a larger expander mandrel in the neck and then size them down to where I have sufficient resistance when closing the bolt? Will this deliver more consistent fireformed brass?
Excuse my pure ignorance... When you refer to ignition timing, are you referring in any way to the time difference from round to round when the primer will ignite (probably much less than a millisecond in time difference). Or, are you mainly referring to the overall length of the cartridge (round to round) which would effect the harmonics? The reason I ask is that I can not yet picture in my head is how different minute "timings" (from round to round) could effect POI..... what all the mechanics are. Thanks for your videos, they are the best! P.S. I love your CPS, it works great! I just purchased the CPS plate from FCLASSPRODUCTS that mates up with the CPS so that I can precisely set the crush depth (from round to round)... It will be interesting to see if I get any improvements from using an already fantastic tool!
Listening and re-listening to the video. Actually I looked at it 3 or 4 times this thing came to mind. I have no problem admitting that I'm one of those people who potentially incorrectly adjusted their die. Even if I use a fairly strong charge, so maybe not but I didn't check by trying to insert the cartridge case in the chamber without resizing it after firing, so we assume that it is. However, the thing that came to my mind is this. Fire forming by firing once is completely useless. The only system would be to use a particularly high charge but, in this way, the case would be ruined. What do you think? And in case you agree with me, how do we solve the problem? :D
You're correct, that fire forming 1 time will not get 100% of the forming done. However, it will bring things close enough so that irreparable damage to the case head/web will not occur, so long as the problem isn't made worse by setting the shoulder back on a case that isn't fully formed. Using an expander to expand the neck to the point where it cannot be chambered, then creating a false shoulder to pinch the brass to the bolt face... can almost entirely eliminate this issue, even with the ejector fully installed. As an apprentice member, you can call me at the Primal Rights line to discuss this further if you would like.
@@primalrights Thanks for the reply. Yes, I know I can call you but, being Italian and not speaking in english every day, I can read in english and understand, I can listen to videos in english and understand what I listen to because as far as reloading is concerned, valid material in my language does not exist , so I only watch videos in english but having a real-time voice conversation creates problems for me. I can manage a chat in real time if possible. Without going too far, for fire forming and to keep the brass attached to the bolt face, I usually reload with the bullet slightly too long and use primary extraction to finish inserting the bullet.
@@giorgiopetrini Yes, seating with heavy jam can work if your seating force is high enough. In high quality ammo, it usually is not. That's where the neck pinch on a false shoulder will be more effective.
So after the first firing of new brass I measure and record the shoulder headspace. At each firing of the brass after that I should expect that number to grow and after a number of firings that number should repeat. Correct?
Correct. Once it's fully formed to the chamber, it should be essentially the same when ejected each firing after that, until the brass is ruined due to case web expansion... in which case you'll see it grow about 5 ten thousandths and will often produce heavy bolt lift. Much more to all of this, but that's a quick run down.
@@primalrights thank you! This is my first bolt gun and using quality brass and I saw just this after my first firing and was confused when I measured the fired brass and it had the same shoulder dims as a new piece of brass. Confusion is now gone! Thank you!
2 things Greg, so the guy's that do there C,O,A,L, will need to start measuring off the Ogive of the bullet for better consistency with pressures? An I noticed in measuring the differences in thicknesses of the Brass at the Base maybe do to the stamping of bran name an calibers. Do I need to sort by thicknesses for consistency?
Thank you, I shoot a 6.5x284 Norma Lapua no longer offers it either does Alpha. I can only find Norma all the low end stuff which I started with years ago. I have about 700 used Lapua 4 to 8 times fired so I'm listening to every video you make an now have decided that there is so much more knowledge to offer that will help me grow as a shooter so I'm going to join in an be a mem er so I don't miss anything an be educated even more thank you for putting out the best video's on the Web God is using you brother keep blessing us an you will prosper even more. Please write a book!!!. Volumes 1 now an 2 when you take time for yourself. We know you will never quit. PRZGod. Thank you brother. O sorry my phone cannot allow me to proof read sorry about spelling ect.
Excellent. Are you misunderstanding my video to say mechanical or removed ejectors are bad? You'll also notice that at no point did I claim a mechanical or no ejector will not be capable of low ES.
@@primalrights Maybe I am misunderstanding. I know the "old school of thought" for benchrest shooters was to remove the ejector, so the bullet wasn't getting pushed from one side. I think they gave up on that thought. I just size my brass so the bolt falls halfway with fire control removed. Only slight pressure to close it the rest of the way. Also, jamming the bullet would keep the base against the bolt face. Thanks for the video.
With using a "mechanical" type ejector, you also not only really mess up ignition timing but you are messing up seating depth.....wow Greg, I'm going to have to check my one and only mechanical ejection rifles reloading setup!! Also, to those who don't think ignition timing don't matter, then you don't understand the mechanics behind it.....one way to understand it, just think of you vehicles ignition timing and what changing that does, same difference.
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What a refreshing video. A guy that is intelligent but humble and doesn't act like he knows everything like some other popular YT reloading presenters. A guy that doesnt just tell you to do something but tells you to think about the process and explains how he has puzzled it out.
Fascinating stuff. Thank you so much. Learned a lot.
OMG, this makes all of the sense in the world and something I was never aware of and was under the belief (since 1986) that once fired brass was indeed fire formed to my chamber! Thank you Greg for taking the time and effort educating your viewer's on overlooked basics.
Just realized I was ruining my brass by sizing after the 1st firing. Great video!!!
This is good stuff and comes at a good time for me. I just recently went to mechanical ejectors, and I had no idea how setting up sizing was creating a problem at the head and the business end of the cartridge. It all makes perfect sense after watching this video. Very good instruction, and I sure do appreciate it. I’ve never heard this anywhere else.
Thanks for this Greg. This makes sense, and will quite possibly account for differences I have seen in shoulder bump in brass used for load development in particular. I had always thought that once brass had been fired it was fully fire formed. Just ordered a CPS so really glad I saw this.
Very good information. note; My comparator is different than your comparator and is different than your friends. Your numbers are your numbers. Make sure you are always using the same comparator.
I learn a lot every time I see a video like this! Thank you for teaching me what has cost a lot of time and effort to learn! If anyone is reading this I wish to help out as well. Recently I have noticed my comparator gauges were not contacting at the start of the shoulder, I was using the cheap knockoffs that look like the Hornady ones, and I can now say don't use the cheap knock offs because they cause nothing but headaches. Sadly it's very much buy once cry once or prepare for constant headaches when it comes to measurement tools. I had similar issues with the plunk test blocks you get on amazon as well. I had several .223 pass the amazon plunk block with zero issue and flat out mortar my ar15 so I bought the Hornady one and I have not gotten that issue since then.
This is such great data for beginners; worth paying for!!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience with us.
Awesome video. I’m glad that I watched someone that explained the proper way to size brass (and find your lands) when I started reloading.
Awesome, thank you!
@@primalrights Hey Greg! wow this video just helped me so much with figuring out my crazy es/sd numbers, and my shoulder bump. Anyhow, quick question, I have an original Bald Eagle primer seater. Whats your opinion of them? It adjusts in 1 thou increments and has worked seemingly well for me.
@leighodowd8091 I prefer the CPS.
Excellent Video! Thank you for covering this.
Looks like I have something to watch with my scotch tonight, thanks for all the info again Greg! Setting my CPS up on the inline fab bases tomorrow!
Cheers,
Thanks for the video. I saw you on Cortina’s podcast.
Awesome video Greg! Super interesting stuff there. Would love to see you do a video on how you clean barrels and how often. Very controversial subject lol but I’m torn between Eric cortina’s system and only cleaning the carbon every hundred rnds or couple hundred rnds.
Just subbed because of Gun Websites. Looking forward to watching your stuff. Thanks for doing what you do
Really appreciate the info, really good really happy to watch
Awesome video
Thanks for your years of wisdom
So nice of you
Even when my cases are fire formed, and need resizing based on bolt fit (without pin/ejectors), I will set my die at exactly .002" bump (based on E. Cortina's scotch tape trick); and the bump amount will vary between cases without changing the set up! Nosler 28 brass 3x fired. They almost never grow in length at the neck/mouth. Using Redding Competition F/L die on CoAx.
Dear Greg,
My understanding is that the incositancy of the ignition is caused by the pressure pushing the primer out faster than the brass can catch or swell in the chamber creating if you will a solid launching base for the bullet to address the lead and riflings. So the brass is moving the primer is moving the constancy of the internals of the brass is changing and the harmonics of the receiver action and barrel are different every time to some degree.
Correct?
I haven’t seen this video yet but I have to been a primer/headspace timing correlation nerd for a few years now and found it had profound effects on my es/sd and long range effectiveness. You were the only person I’ve ever heard speak of it in the 30 years of my reloading.
I wouldn't say that inconsistency of ignition is caused by the pressure pushing the primer out. After all, once the reaction has been initiated, we rely on the uniformity of components to behave in a predictable manner. So as long as we start ignition the same way, in the same place, at the same time for each round, we then have to relinquish ourselves to things beyond our control... such as the brass metallurgy.
Regardless, as long as we've set everything up uniformly, then the same thing should happen each time, resulting in a stable harmonic. That's essentially the whole point of what we're doing. So when the primer is inserted to exactly the same distance from the firing pin/bolt face each time... when the cartridge ignites, it will get pushed back at the same velocity for the same distance each time... and the internal capacity of the case will also be the same each time.
Uniformity, produces uniformity. :)
Interesting thought none the less, and I congratulate you for thinking on it.
Anyone complaining about what a AR does to brass has never fired a HK/G3 style rifle. That is if you can even find the brass from the HK as it propels it into lower orbit. :)
Seriously though this video got me thinking. I thought I had my brass sized correctly. Thought I had allowed it to grow till the bolt would not close, shave off a tho and Im good to go. Well I just took a piece of range brass that the headspace was 3 tho longer then what I shoot. So I carefully sized it NOT disturbing the headspace length on the case. Well my bolt CLOSED on it!
Thanks for the education, I got some brass growing to do apparently!
Merry Christmas!
Thanks for the kind words and Merry Christmas!
Easy listen great explanation! Thank you!
You make a great case to bring back electric ignition primers. Knowing this is VERY unlikely to happen I am paying attention to not only this video but have watched yours and Eriks talk twice now. (thick Norwegian skull plate. LOL)
Even though I am not an F class trigger squeezer I still like to make em go where the crosswire is.
Amen! Thanks for watching!
43:30
I too hate when I have premature events.......
Sorry the immature part of me kicked in. Some good info in this video
I learned some amazing info in this video
Join our channel membership here. We’re going to have a ton more informative videos like this for members this year!
Late to the party. If your gonna run a spring/plunger extractor and want to fire form your brass would it be better to run your bolt with the plunger removed for a few firings until you have a tight fit brass to chamber.
One simple trick to determine zero headspace is to take a once fired case and put a new primer in it and shoot the primer 💡
The primer will blow out and fill the gap .
Measure with your HeadspaceGuage as usual and index on the blown out primer ,this is your zero tolerance headspace 😉
Usually this method gives around one thousand extra length so that the case have a slightly sticky feeling to close and open the bolthandle .
You can subtract that one thousand from the mesure to establish the zero value.
When you lube your brass for resizing do you also lube the inside of the case mouth and if so what do you use to clean the inside?
In your conversation with Eric, if I remember correctly, you said the primer pocket grows with each firing. Could you elaborate a little more on this and how it affects optimal primer seating depth?
Its not a big thing... because it's very easy to track. You just measure it, and carry on with load tuning.
What's your thoughts on shoulder bump on belted case's ?
You mentioned measuring headspace with micrometers and calipers. What is your opinion on having something like a Redding Instant Indicator in a turret press to check headspace during the process?
That certainly can work. Bottom line is that whatever method you're using, it needs to be repeatable, and your measuring tool needs to demonstrate it is accurate.
Did a little test on the primer depth on my reloads and found better grouping at 5 mil on primer from 0 to 6 mil. Shoulder FL at 1.5640 from 1.5660 or 1.5665.
What about belted magnums, like a .300 Win-mag? I heard that they headspace off the belt, does the the extraction and ejection method make a difference with this case style? Also, are you now dealing with headspace in 2 seperate areas? At the belt and at the shoulder?
Depends on the tolerance of the belt vs the chamber... yet this is one big reason why I try to avoid belted cases. You're also correct, that there is a "secondary" headspace that needs to be dealt with. Not a fan.
What if ……. the shoulder on new brass is pushed forward with a hydraulic form die… then set back gradually with the sizing die until correct / desired headspace is set? A lot of extra brass prep for sure…. But headspace would be consistent for every loading of the piece of brass!
Pardon but this is a great channel. How the heck did I not know about it?
Thank you! Share it to others so that they may find it! ;)
One more question:
What is the AVERAGE number of rounds fired when working up a load from finding where pressure lives to the final primer seating depth?
I'd say it takes me a solid 300-350rnds to complete a total workup. It is imperative that you have at least 200rnds on the barrel before fine tuning the load and proofing it.
Try running your cases through the rifle after your shoot. Some cases will be very hard to close. Some medium and some very easy. The tight ones are the ones that you set your shoulder bump on. Once set up, run the lot (all of them) through the sizing die.
Respectfully, that darn trigger means a lot with timing, but that's another episode....
The (spring) plunger pressure. How much should there be? + or -
Where do i get my remington 700 bolt bushed, I live in Colorado
OK. I have two new boxes of Lapua brass and a mechanical ejector. I have tested them in the chamber and there is zero resistance on the bolt when closing. Should I stick a larger expander mandrel in the neck and then size them down to where I have sufficient resistance when closing the bolt? Will this deliver more consistent fireformed brass?
This sort of advice is reserved for those in our Mentorship program. Feel free to call this coming week to discuss joining!
Excuse my pure ignorance...
When you refer to ignition timing, are you referring in any way to the time difference from round to round when the primer will ignite (probably much less than a millisecond in time difference). Or, are you mainly referring to the overall length of the cartridge (round to round) which would effect the harmonics?
The reason I ask is that I can not yet picture in my head is how different minute "timings" (from round to round) could effect POI..... what all the mechanics are.
Thanks for your videos, they are the best!
P.S. I love your CPS, it works great! I just purchased the CPS plate from FCLASSPRODUCTS that mates up with the CPS so that I can precisely set the crush depth (from round to round)... It will be interesting to see if I get any improvements from using an already fantastic tool!
Yup, ignition timing has to do with the ignition system in the rifle, as well as the location of the primer.
Listening and re-listening to the video. Actually I looked at it 3 or 4 times this thing came to mind. I have no problem admitting that I'm one of those people who potentially incorrectly adjusted their die. Even if I use a fairly strong charge, so maybe not but I didn't check by trying to insert the cartridge case in the chamber without resizing it after firing, so we assume that it is. However, the thing that came to my mind is this. Fire forming by firing once is completely useless. The only system would be to use a particularly high charge but, in this way, the case would be ruined. What do you think? And in case you agree with me, how do we solve the problem? :D
You're correct, that fire forming 1 time will not get 100% of the forming done. However, it will bring things close enough so that irreparable damage to the case head/web will not occur, so long as the problem isn't made worse by setting the shoulder back on a case that isn't fully formed. Using an expander to expand the neck to the point where it cannot be chambered, then creating a false shoulder to pinch the brass to the bolt face... can almost entirely eliminate this issue, even with the ejector fully installed. As an apprentice member, you can call me at the Primal Rights line to discuss this further if you would like.
@@primalrights Thanks for the reply. Yes, I know I can call you but, being Italian and not speaking in english every day, I can read in english and understand, I can listen to videos in english and understand what I listen to because as far as reloading is concerned, valid material in my language does not exist , so I only watch videos in english but having a real-time voice conversation creates problems for me. I can manage a chat in real time if possible. Without going too far, for fire forming and to keep the brass attached to the bolt face, I usually reload with the bullet slightly too long and use primary extraction to finish inserting the bullet.
@@giorgiopetrini Yes, seating with heavy jam can work if your seating force is high enough. In high quality ammo, it usually is not. That's where the neck pinch on a false shoulder will be more effective.
Why not just neck size, anyone
Do you anneal ounce fired Lapua brass ? Or when do you anneal ? Thanks !
I believe I heard the great man say in one of his annealing videos that he anneals his cases after every firing.
So after the first firing of new brass I measure and record the shoulder headspace. At each firing of the brass after that I should expect that number to grow and after a number of firings that number should repeat. Correct?
Correct. Once it's fully formed to the chamber, it should be essentially the same when ejected each firing after that, until the brass is ruined due to case web expansion... in which case you'll see it grow about 5 ten thousandths and will often produce heavy bolt lift. Much more to all of this, but that's a quick run down.
@@primalrights thank you! This is my first bolt gun and using quality brass and I saw just this after my first firing and was confused when I measured the fired brass and it had the same shoulder dims as a new piece of brass. Confusion is now gone! Thank you!
How come you don’t shoot comp? Great vid!!
I strongly dislike competition.
2 things Greg, so the guy's that do there C,O,A,L, will need to start measuring off the Ogive of the bullet for better consistency with pressures? An I noticed in measuring the differences in thicknesses of the Brass at the Base maybe do to the stamping of bran name an calibers. Do I need to sort by thicknesses for consistency?
Buy Alpha or lapua brass, and you won't have to sort much at all.
Thank you, I shoot a 6.5x284 Norma Lapua no longer offers it either does Alpha. I can only find Norma all the low end stuff which I started with years ago. I have about 700 used Lapua 4 to 8 times fired so I'm listening to every video you make an now have decided that there is so much more knowledge to offer that will help me grow as a shooter so I'm going to join in an be a mem er so I don't miss anything an be educated even more thank you for putting out the best video's on the Web God is using you brother keep blessing us an you will prosper even more. Please write a book!!!. Volumes 1 now an 2 when you take time for yourself. We know you will never quit. PRZGod. Thank you brother. O sorry my phone cannot allow me to proof read sorry about spelling ect.
Do you ship your CPS to Australia
Yes, via our international distributor: Graf & Sons.
My Bat action doesn't have an ejector. I can get my ES down to 5 or less on a 5 shot group with my 6 BR.
Excellent. Are you misunderstanding my video to say mechanical or removed ejectors are bad? You'll also notice that at no point did I claim a mechanical or no ejector will not be capable of low ES.
@@primalrights Maybe I am misunderstanding. I know the "old school of thought" for benchrest shooters was to remove the ejector, so the bullet wasn't getting pushed from one side. I think they gave up on that thought. I just size my brass so the bolt falls halfway with fire control removed. Only slight pressure to close it the rest of the way.
Also, jamming the bullet would keep the base against the bolt face.
Thanks for the video.
With using a "mechanical" type ejector, you also not only really mess up ignition timing but you are messing up seating depth.....wow Greg, I'm going to have to check my one and only mechanical ejection rifles reloading setup!!
Also, to those who don't think ignition timing don't matter, then you don't understand the mechanics behind it.....one way to understand it, just think of you vehicles ignition timing and what changing that does, same difference.
If you're managing all this properly, a mechanical ejector is just fine. Though if you're not? ... then big problems! ;)
i have seen no evidence for this.