U250E Rebuild
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.พ. 2021
- 2009 Toyota Camry The camera quit recording several times on this one. Don't think much is missing, mostly on the underdrive section. You can watch that part on the U240 rebuild video, it is set up the same.
PATREON: / curmudgeontransmission
Supplier Links:
Superior: superiortransmission.com/
Transtar: www.transtar1.com/
WIT: www.wittrans.com/
Sonnax: www.sonnax.com/
Teckpak/Fitzall: www.teckpak-fitzall.com/
Transgo: transgo.com/
Precision of New Hampton: gopnh.com/
Atec Transtool: www.toolsource.com/atec-trans... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Thanks for all the content.
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Watching a professional at work is truly educational- for all the content: thanks...
I appreciate that!
I never did thank you for contributing to the channel. Been meaning to. Every time I would think of it something would come up and never got around to it. Was just thinking about it again and stopped and did it. Sorry, inexcusable.
Thank you, Curmudgeon, for sharing your expertise in assembling these puzzles and leaving in the frustrating parts. Your generosity in filming your process has given me the confidence to attempt a rebuild on my U241E: at 111K miles it races in second, hunts for 3rd, and jerks in reverse. I write in detail for the benefit of others.
A newbie at trans work, I googled for answers, and was surprised that there is still a recall on my ECM which has the bad shifting program, and I had it reflashed at the dealer for free even 20 years after it was made. I watched many different videos, visited forums, studied diagrams and manuals, and ordered parts that I hope will solve the problem. Not having the facilities to completely remove the trans, I'm approaching it with the 2002 RAV4 on jackstands, drained the fluid first, the driver's side wheel is off and Kroil spray lubricant helped ease the 20 years of attachment of the eleven 12mm bolts on the cover. A body part blocked easy access to the top two bolts but a long, thin, box-end 12 wrench did the trick. All bolts out, gently pulling at the cover with a thin pry bar, I knew the seal was broken when dots of tranny fluid flew out, then suddenly it was free, and I could see inside. I was surprised how easily the tubes and pieces came out with a series of gentle tugs and twists..
Questions: what lubricants and silicone sealer -it looks like Loctite brand- (at 44:20) are you using? I see a tub of yellow lube, in other videos a tub of black lube; what are these and how do you decide which is applied where? I know this automatic for you, but I want to understand why you are adding dabs of what specific stuff when?
I am closely studying this video between 41:30 and 50:30 where your camera unfortunately cut out. At then end of this section you are using a circular clamp to compress a ring that doesn't seem to be fitting, and then suddenly we're on the other side of the transmission and we don't know how you solved the problem. What was the problem in fitting that final piece on? Is there an easier way to accomplish the task--what should I be mindful of in fitting the final pieces?
Imagine yourself as the new guy looking at this puzzle in your driveway. I have removed the parts up until the snap ring at 40:04. The ring gear and everything behind is still held in place on the car by that snap ring. In a box in my garage are everything else: the shell, the sprag assembly, washers, hubs, drum and outer clutches to the case covering.
My biggest question: am I deep enough in to the transmission to address the issue of no upshift from 2nd to 3rd? How do I know what the failed section is (what am I looking for)? How do you judge what can be used again vs. what is seriously worn or broken and need to be replaced? If I don't find broken parts in the section that I removed, do I dig deeper?
If you answer these questions in another video, please let me know where to look. I hope that the U241E and U250E are similar enough that what you're doing in this video applies to both.
Note: the flat rubber seals you show at 43:38 are Toyota part number 35145-21010 "Gasket, Transaxle CA" and cost about $45 for all three from the dealer. Could you point me to a vendor who could be helpful to someone like me to find parts or the right kits for my task? When I called the one that I bought from they said that "everything you need" is in the friction kit, but wouldn't tell me what exactly was included, so I'm still not sure. Are there parts (like the seals) that I should only buy OEM or which manufacturers are trusted for what parts?
Ideally I'd love to see a video where you explained the lubes, how to judge what is reusable (like in one video you were able to grind off a sharp edge to reuse it), and how far to go into the U241e and similar series transmissions to solve the 2-3 upshift issue (that resulted from the bad ECM) without having to remove and rebuild the entire transmission, if that is even possible. I'm obviously trying to get more life out of a durable machine, and I'm sure others in in the same situation given the cost of vehicles post-covid.
I apologize for the blizzard of questions and length of this comment, but I do value your insight and if you're not able to answer them specifically, I hope for direction towards something you've already posted to help me get this vehicle moving again. Even if you're not able to address this post, I am sincerely grateful for the effort you've made to share your knowledge with the rest of us. Watching a professional at work is truly an educational experience.
Thanks again...
Whew! There is a lot there. I'll try to answer them all. I do have a video on which products I use. Don't think I went into detail of why I use them. The yellow grease was Transgel Gold. It is no longer available. I used it because it was the thinnest and I used it for lubing lip seals. The black is actually dark green and is the thickest. I use it for holding bearings and such in place. Silicone I use is Loctite 598. The clamp I am using to resize sealing rings on the end cover. I use reverse input solid rings for a TH4L60E on there to help with the 2-3 flair that these units are notorious for. They are very tight fitting and easy to cut installing the cover. I am using a bushing and hose clamp. You can just use 2 hose clamps. My advice is to put the rings on, lube them up, put the clamps on and put it in the freezer overnight. Immediately after pulling it out of the freezer install it on the transmission trying to install it as straight as possible. As you stated these have bad computers. It will destroy the direct clutches. The direct clutches are in the drum behind the cover you take off. Depending on how long it was driven will determine how bad and what else gets burned. The second biggest problem they have is the pinions in the planetary wearing out and coming apart. It will start with the pins for the pinion gears. Once bad enough it will destroy the whole gear train. You cannot get the one that is the worst about it out without taking the front case half off. We buy our parts from WIT or Transtar. I prefer Transtec kits, especially for foreign transmissions. Links are in the description. The U140, 150, 240, 250 series units are basically the same. They will take different size clutches and the valve bodies are different. Look on the sticker in the door jamb and it will list exactly which transmission you have.
Thank you for this video
Thank you for watching it.
thank you for sharing
Thank you for watching.
Good job
Thanks
Thank you sir
Welcome
GOOD VIDEO.THANK YIU
Thanks
Quite impressive. I am a total diy beginner and need advice. I did a transmission fluid drain and filter change (u250e-camry 2007 aim was to address a hard shift from 5-4 and a flare from 2-3)a week ago and after starting the car, there was a bit of whining from the transmission. Next day going to work, there was some flare between shifts and after some distance, vehicle stopped shifting and went into "neutral". After stopping at the side of the road for 2 mins, the car was able to shift into gear and I took it to my mechanic. I asked him to straighten the pan which had a dent, and also to checked if the filter was installed properly. He did and said the filter wasn't sitting properly in the fluid inlet. However, the vehicle still behaved the same after we did a road test(goes into neutral after some distance). The only difference is that after the mechanic had a look, the whine was gone and now I had a gurgling sound. Now am stuck and don't know what to do. Should I buy a used transmission or should I attempt a rebuild? Please help. Am totally 😢 about the whole affair, especially since it's my fault the vehicle is kaput!
You may have got your hands on a Chinese filter. Either get your filter from the dealer or get a Filtran filter from WIT or Transtar. O'Reilly's filters also seem to be good also. Now having said that a fluid change is not going to fix your flair and harsh shift. Sounds like it is time for a rebuild.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for replying. I am beginning to accept that a rebuild is my only option. I think I can do most of it. I agree, it was stupid of me to think that a fluid change would fix the flare and hard shift. After researching more I found out there were TSBs issued for the very specific issues I was having. I will replace the solenoids in the rebuild. Now, the valve body repair seems to be quite tricky. I don't know if I should attempt it at all. Do you reckon if I do a rebuild and don't touch the valve body that all will be good. Mind you I have some burn/wear on the clutch plates behind the drum similar to the video but not as bad. I don't know if that has been caused by faulty valve body or just normal wear and tear.
The valve body is prone to wear like most nowadays. If you don't feel like doing it yourself get a Sonnax one. I have dealt with some of the others out there and don't recommend them.
BTW, thanks for supporting the channel on Patreon!
When you are fitting the second drum, you suggest that if the upper set of clutches are burnt then it's a bad computer, what if it's the lower set of clutches that are totally wiped out. What could be the cause of this?
Thank you for great video. I used it to change valve body on my 2005 Camry and it fixed my downshift jerk from 3 to 2 issue.
I DO HAVE A QUESTION. WHAT'S THE OFFWHITE GREASE NAME THAT YOU USED TO DIP THE 2 RUBBER WASHERS BETWEEN 58 AND 58:30 MINUTES?
Thanks again.
That color is no longer available. Red, blue and green is all that is available now. LubeGard assembly lube.
Thanks a lot
Thanks for the video. Do you know where I can get the seals at 58:21 ?
Only way you are going to get those is to buy a rebuild kit. Cheapest kit you can buy is going to be a paper, rings and seals kit. Only other way is to visit your local transmission shop and see if they will sell them to you. Thanks for watching.
So the o-rings on the piston if slacked could cause a no reverse case. I have a U250e transmission with a no reverse. @ first it goes on reverse with throttling hard later on slips out consistently till it finally didn’t reverse any more. Any time this happens it pops up a p0500. Vehicle speed sensor malfunction. Am no brainer on a transmission rebuild but I could give some shots. Have read up it could be the o-rings(like you changed in 13:12) are brittle or the reverse clutch. Can’t even identify the reverse clutch. Also what physical characteristics are typically of a burnt out clutches, Scours?
Any training to students on transmission rebuild.
Reverse is the Underdrive Brake, which is the bottom set of clutches in the front of the transmission. Low/Reverse Brake, which is the bottom set of clutches in the rear of the transmission. And the Reverse Input, this is the top set of clutches in the drum in the rear of the transmission, under the rear cover. This is the set of clutches that is probably burned. Look at the rear cover and drum real close. The pistons need to be replaced also. The large on is getting really hard to get. Do not use cheap pistons here, make sure they are a quality brand.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Thanks for this great tips. It’s well appreciated. Am yet to crane out the transmission but on a closer look from underneath the vehicle after removing the valve body I noticed the low/reverse clutch isn’t looking jammed up together(separated). Any pointer on this one?
Thanks once more for your time
There should be some play. It is only tight when it is applied.
do you sell any used parts for a u241e, im looking for a direct clutch drum 3 disk without groves from the sealing rings or point me to someone who can help me out? thanks
No I don't. WIT or Bishop's. Links are in the description.
I added a timestamp directory to his U151 Rebuild video which includes in the description the count and order of the number of rings and assembly order. The video is at th-cam.com/video/XJ9jZK4axVY/w-d-xo.html
The service manual advices placing the snap ring ends non-aligned with the stoppers whereas you advice otherwise. Is there a reason for this?
I'm not understanding what you are meaning by stoppers. Alldata does not specify any orientation on the snap rings. I usually mark where they were from the factory and that is where I put them back.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission I was referring to the snap rings for the clutch balancers.
I have you put them in the same spot, I just don't mention the stoppers. Also, if you look at the pistons, some of them have slots cut out on them. I think it is more important for the snap ring ends not to be sticking partially over one of those slots. If possible and the snap ring opening is large enough, I put the opening there. Those slots are to let fluid out and that will allow a little better flow.
Hello sir this transmission kit is same for u250 for Toyota Camry 2007 2.4 engine
Assuming you do have the U250E, can also have the U150E. In that case it would be different. Look on the tag in the drivers door jamb. It will list which transmission you have.
How easy is it to turn the input shaft after assembling the bell housing?
I am having a hard time turming it by hand. But with the torque converter in, it turns. Not sure if the tc splines into the input shaft though.
If it will turn by hand you should be fine. If you soaked your clutches it will add to the difficulty of turning.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission noted. I did soak my clutches for almost 24 hrs. Anyway, the tranny goes into the car today. Hopefully I did a good enough job. 🤞
Ok, just managed to turn it using a pliers. So hope that's good.
Hi, me again🙄. So the transmission went into the car. The road test hasn't gone so well. The vehicle doesn't shift smoothly into 3rd gear. I wasn't able to resize the teflon rings so I opted tp use the ones in the kit. Could this be the cause? No codes in the vehicle though.
Is this in a Rav 4? Were the directs burned badly? Did you reset the shifts adapts?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission it's an 07 camry. The directs were burnt but only the lower set. I haven't reset the shift adapts.
So, I did a memory reset and 1-3 smoothened out. But I don't have 4th gear. Now I have to drive with selector on 3rd. I did change the slt solenoid on my unit. I have seen in some forum somebody say SLTis responsible for 4th gear but I am unable to confirm. Is this accurate? The reason I changed the SLT solenoid was due to a hard shift I was getting moving from 5th to 4th. I founda TSB that said thiswas caused by a bad design of the SLT solenoid hence during the rebuild, I used a new solenoid. Mightthis cause the 4th gear not to engage?
SLT controls line pressure. The bonded pistons in the forward drum can give the same symptoms as the SLT solenoid as far as the harsh 5-4 shift. Did it have 4th gear before the memory reset? Is there a knock sensor code in the system? Why do you need to drive it in 3? Is it neutralizing when it should go to 4th or just not shifting past 3rd?
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks for replying and your patience. It neutralizes when going to 4th. I decided to drive with the shift in 3rd because the road I was on is winding and has many hills and valleys. As a result, going uphill the car would neutralize and the only way I found that wouldn't result in me losing power was keeping the manual gear selector on 3. Behaved the same before the memory reset.
Does the pump bushing c9me with the kit?
No it does not. You will need to order it separate.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission thanks the disassembly video you say you get it from sonnax. I have searched but I can't get one for this unit. Might you know the part no.?
Transtar's number is 57034A.
....!
how much money do I have to pay for this kind of work?
All depends on how damaged the unit is and you won't know that until you take it apart.
@@CurmudgeonTransmissionI need your advice.
I made a u250e automatic transmission for my friend. I used yours to get information.
At 48.42 you install a bearing. Which side is the right way to put it? Or does it not matter?
A friend installed a transmission and the clutch pack, which is under this bearing, burned out.
The transmission was taken to a service center and they said that the reason was an incorrectly installed bearing. I think that they are deceiving me and could simply forget to pour oil. What are your thoughts?
Sorry I can't send a photo.
@@Big_BOSSSSSSS Outside race faces the drum. I would think that you would notice if it was wrong. It does not sit quite right when it is upside down. If those clutches were burned before and it is in a RAV4 it is a great possibility you have a bad computer.
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Yes. the problem turned out to be in the computer. during assembly, I missed one spring and did not check its presence according to the scheme. It turned out to be very sad.
Please show me UB80E rebuild
Have not seen one yet, will when one comes in.