Keep in mind that the LED nav light install is probably not USCG approved. I'm not saying don't do it but if you got stopped at night, some hardass water patrol officer could give you crap about it.
Wish I saw this before I did my boat. Definitely make sure your lights are placed properly before you install! I just placed mine where I thought they'd work but ended up being blinded by those under my console Good video tho.
Yea....honestly you shouldn't be able to see the light strip from any angle. You're supposed to hide the lights so that they "wash" over what you want illuminated. In this video they're way too visible and blinding as well. You gotta be crafty...if your eyes can see them when they're off then you'll be invaded by them when lit up at night.
Heat shrink reminded me of something. If you have something large to protect and you want to wrap it in shrink plastic, use a soda bottle. Choose a large or small diameter bottle, cut the ends off then you have a large tough heat shrink tube. You'll need either a heatgun or blow torch to shrink it.
When you make the connections of your lights to the "fuse box" do you have to use any type of DC ADAPTER OR CONVERTER? or just handle the wire red/black as you'd normally would?
Where 2 wires are joined side by side like that I would recommend potting the heat shrink tubing with a sealant of some sort. Also can you add the brand and source of your lights and switches to the video description so we don't have to search all the comments to find that information?
Just connected to the cranking battery. The LED lights draw such little current it's almost a non-issue. Not long after I installed them, just to see what would happen, I turned all the deck lights, the rod lockers, and the storage compartment lights on and kept them on for 2 full days. The battery voltage only dropped down from 12.62 to around 11.88 and with just the deck lights, they can go for 2 full days and not drop below 12V.
Hi, What brand of LEDs did you use for your rub rail lights? I am having a hard time finding some that are small enough to fit inside of the 1/4 vinyl tubing.
There are lights that are IP66 "weatherproof" compliant. What are your thoughts on these for deck/compartment lights? I'd imagine it would be ok as long as the lights are not submerged.
Ken Eng you're probably right Ken, they probably would work. But I am a product of my past experiences, so my mind tells me to do it right so I don't have to do it over. However, I also have a reputation for being a bit overkill when I conquer projects like this.
I bought mine on eBay, all are supernight brand, water-proof 60 LED / meter. I usually end up replacing one or two a year, usually due to them getting step on with the edge of my shoe. (for some reason I damage the forward-most light on the left side every year.) My switch came from Bluewater LED as did the dimmer switch.
So your heat shrink tubing idea is cool but uses allot, just get the heat shrink that has that good inside that when you shrink it it goops out and seals up all holes
I am having a hard time finding a clear 1 3/4 in clear rub rail insert... my rub rail seems to be a thicker rub rail as it's not a bass boat , meaning it is not a flexible rubber round mold like urs, any suggestions on what I could use to replace a portion of it? The cost hanger wouldn't work for me as the rub rail isn't round where I could fit anything into either side...
Aaron, most big-box Marine stores have larger, clear, thick-walled tubing on rolls, by-the-foot. I found this out while trying to source braided/reinforced tubing when I upgraded the automatic bilge pump on my R91 Intracoastal. Some better hardware stores may have that tubing as well.
Ken Busbee I used the Super Night lights and I wired them up with a dimmer from BlueWaterLED. (I used their switch too) I made a video a couple years ago that details the whole system which includes why I designed it the way I did.
+Evan Kilpatrick Hey Evan... I should also mention that I did get my on/off switch and my dimmer switch from BlueWaterLED online. These 2 items are worth the extra money.
Thank You for the vid all the great ideas 💡
the nav light in the gunnel is genius!! i am totally going to do that.
Keep in mind that the LED nav light install is probably not USCG approved. I'm not saying don't do it but if you got stopped at night, some hardass water patrol officer could give you crap about it.
Wish I saw this before I did my boat. Definitely make sure your lights are placed properly before you install! I just placed mine where I thought they'd work but ended up being blinded by those under my console Good video tho.
Yea....honestly you shouldn't be able to see the light strip from any angle. You're supposed to hide the lights so that they "wash" over what you want illuminated. In this video they're way too visible and blinding as well. You gotta be crafty...if your eyes can see them when they're off then you'll be invaded by them when lit up at night.
Thanks. This video was a great help!
Heat shrink reminded me of something. If you have something large to protect and you want to wrap it in shrink plastic, use a soda bottle. Choose a large or small diameter bottle, cut the ends off then you have a large tough heat shrink tube. You'll need either a heatgun or blow torch to shrink it.
Great video, thx
GOT THE IDEA,THANKS A LOT
Have you thought of putting a little dielectric grease inside the first piece of heat shrinking before shrinking?
Scott Belaire I do, yes.
When you make the connections of your lights to the "fuse box" do you have to use any type of DC ADAPTER OR CONVERTER? or just handle the wire red/black as you'd normally would?
No adapters or anything... just 12V DC from the starting battery (as opposed to the trolling motor batteries)
using a candle to solder?!? just wow!
When I'm doing a whole system, with 40 or more wires to flow the solder through, it's a lot easier and quicker.
Where 2 wires are joined side by side like that I would recommend potting the heat shrink tubing with a sealant of some sort. Also can you add the brand and source of your lights and switches to the video description so we don't have to search all the comments to find that information?
do you have a designated battery for the lights or are you just connecting to the cranking battery?
Just connected to the cranking battery. The LED lights draw such little current it's almost a non-issue. Not long after I installed them, just to see what would happen, I turned all the deck lights, the rod lockers, and the storage compartment lights on and kept them on for 2 full days. The battery voltage only dropped down from 12.62 to around 11.88 and with just the deck lights, they can go for 2 full days and not drop below 12V.
Just connecting to the cranking battery. I can leave the lights on for 48 hours and they don't even start to drain the battery.
Hi, What brand of LEDs did you use for your rub rail lights? I am having a hard time finding some that are small enough to fit inside of the 1/4 vinyl tubing.
thanks
ok thanks!!
There are lights that are IP66 "weatherproof" compliant. What are your thoughts on these for deck/compartment lights? I'd imagine it would be ok as long as the lights are not submerged.
Ken Eng you're probably right Ken, they probably would work. But I am a product of my past experiences, so my mind tells me to do it right so I don't have to do it over. However, I also have a reputation for being a bit overkill when I conquer projects like this.
Did you get these off amazon ? I’m wanting to do the same to mine but not sure the best place to get the led strips
I bought mine on eBay, all are supernight brand, water-proof 60 LED / meter. I usually end up replacing one or two a year, usually due to them getting step on with the edge of my shoe. (for some reason I damage the forward-most light on the left side every year.) My switch came from Bluewater LED as did the dimmer switch.
Are the red green lights required for a motorized kayak?
Yes
So your heat shrink tubing idea is cool but uses allot, just get the heat shrink that has that good inside that when you shrink it it goops out and seals up all holes
I am having a hard time finding a clear 1 3/4 in clear rub rail insert... my rub rail seems to be a thicker rub rail as it's not a bass boat , meaning it is not a flexible rubber round mold like urs, any suggestions on what I could use to replace a portion of it? The cost hanger wouldn't work for me as the rub rail isn't round where I could fit anything into either side...
What make and model is your boat? I can do an image search... if I see it, I can probably offer up some suggestions for an alternative modification.
Aaron, most big-box Marine stores have larger, clear, thick-walled tubing on rolls, by-the-foot. I found this out while trying to source braided/reinforced tubing when I upgraded the automatic bilge pump on my R91 Intracoastal. Some better hardware stores may have that tubing as well.
@@rodfather_bass_fishing I'm seriously considering the rub rail nav light option on the R91...very smooth indeed.
I wish you would of showed your power hook ups
I just run the 18 gauge to loop connectors at the battery. I use a 10 amp fuse on the power side run inline with two female connectors.
what lights did you use that have a dimmer switch? I am looking for some to add to my boat this spring when the weather gets warmer.
Ken Busbee I used the Super Night lights and I wired them up with a dimmer from BlueWaterLED. (I used their switch too) I made a video a couple years ago that details the whole system which includes why I designed it the way I did.
were did you order your led lights from
+Evan Kilpatrick I get all my lights on eBay from a vendor from Portland Or.
+Evan Kilpatrick Hey Evan... I should also mention that I did get my on/off switch and my dimmer switch from BlueWaterLED online. These 2 items are worth the extra money.
I like the video
What gauge wire did you use to connect the LED's?
Christian Johnson 18 gauge
WTH Dude ? you ultimately didn't show your lighting at all ? ? What were U thinking ?
Dude hide the wires behind the light strip. Yea they work, but look like crap.