you have amazing talent. glad you posted this series. after watching you do this ,I realize I do not have the machines needed to build one. I may have to save til I am 90 to by a pre made one. velos are hardly known here in America . in 44 years I have only seen 2 for sale in New York. I want one that I can use year round, make electric and modify with what I have. maybe a heater for winter, run 3 inch or 4 inch tires during that time ,tilting is a must lol.
Good to see it all taking shape. I'm impressed how carefully considered and methodical your work is. I'm much more of a bodger but am gradually learning to change my ways!
Thanks for watching my latest offering. Hope you find something of interest. Please leave any questions or comments, they are always good to read. Is there anything you would like to see in more detail in a future video?
great work - I'm looking forward to seeing it in action, my brain is struggling to believe it will ride vertically just like any other bike once rolling...? but I'm very sure you must know it will.
I see that you use QR skewers to mount the wheels. How successful is that? the QR skewers are quite thin and I was concerned that they are designed for a fork to hold both ends, however in the design at 2:40 am I correct that they are just passing through the 25mm square tubing and then into the QR hub? I expected the QR Skewer would bend under that load. What have you found?
It works fine, the skewers simply hold the wheels on and are not subject to any bending loads. The wheels sit on a steel axle which is cantilevered into the uprights. The skewers just hold it all together.
Fantastic! Lot of work hey?! Inspirational as always...Ive been working on a tilting elec trike myself..... nearly finished.... but unfortunately, I didnt buy a very powerful hub motor - so after all my welding - its 20kg too heavy! Im still working on it....:-)
Hi, I'm in the prosses of planning to convert my electric Reverse trike in to a tilting model then fit it in too a Messerschmitt kr200 fibre glass body kit. I'm wanting to use a go car rack steering as the complete kit is about £80all in, weighing 4 kgs and is a simple design, weight is not a major problem. I'm very impressed in your design and the prosses of reaching it. I would be looking to have suspension, I would welcome your help and input if you can.
Hello MMS, I really is very close to completion and it's first outing... will you be making a mounting for a Garmin or similar, it would be interesting to know some stats over different terrain. See you next time... Take care. Paul,,
Watching this with great interest. This combines so many of my interests. Would like to see you work out inovative ways to make it aero with fairing. Will you be making the frame out of another material whan it is all worked out and functioning with the ply wood?
I have designs for a fairing in development. I like the idea wood from a ‘green’ point of view, but I will probably go with carbon fibre for the Mk II version.
What a great design! I'm a complete ignorant in this field but are you taking into account any steering geometry like Ackerman or Davis? Can't wait to see it running
Yes, they are 20in wheels. Most velomobiles have a 26in back wheel, but for my design, this takes too much space and adds a lot of length. Ground clearance is a bit tight and I may increase slightly on final design. I will add suspension too.
@@MetalMachineShop I remember you said that you were considering making the front top crossmember into a leaf-spring to make the ride more compliant. If you decided to do that and you hit a traffic “cushion” or pothole it could bottom out. When it comes to springs, something like a snow ski could probably give you plenty of vibration suppression, they absorb shock but have a damped return to stop bouncing.
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 yes, something like that. Some shock absorption would be good but suspension travel will need to be limited. The rider sits quite far back so the rear suspension is more important. Ground clearance could be an issue, but a carbon frame will not need such a deep ‘girder’, which will help.
I got one very similar/identical to the Sfeomi 15 to 25mm tube bender available from Amazon, but I actually got it from eBay for significantly less money. It did the job but there are a few manufacturing issues which ideally need to be fixed.
@@MetalMachineShop thank you! so as per usual - you buy from PRC as a kit of parts to work on them to make them usable :-) Still, I guess I would have to pay more for materials.... and what you have made with it looks perfectly OK Will have to have a look on Ebay
@@bambukouk Slightly better than a kit of parts but the grooved die doesn’t really align with the follower on the handle (a spacer would sort it). Slightly annoying as it would be as easy to make it right than as it is, but it’s an easy fix. But it worked fine and for the price (about £70), can’t complain too much.
I cannot avoid it... each time I see your videos it is the same question in my head... How much money in tooling is in that garage?? would you recommend a machine that could do most of the tasks?
It would be very un-British of me to answer that question honestly and in any case, my wife might find out. Most of the kit is second-hand and/or of Eastern manufacture so relatively inexpensive. A lot of the small tooling is home-made. If I could only have one machine, it would be a decent lathe - second hand is fine - plus a load of hand tools. A lot of milling tasks can be done on the lathe with patience.
@@urnenfeld Eastern as in Asian, I.e. Chinese. Sieg machines or similar are sold under many brand names, e.g. Warco, Arc, Chester, Axeminster in the UK. They are ok, cheapest. Second hand Colchester or Harrison lathes good, but could be pricey. Depends on need and budget.
~Very nice milling work!
you have amazing talent. glad you posted this series. after watching you do this ,I realize I do not have the machines needed to build one. I may have to save til I am 90 to by a pre made one. velos are hardly known here in America . in 44 years I have only seen 2 for sale in New York. I want one that I can use year round, make electric and modify with what I have. maybe a heater for winter, run 3 inch or 4 inch tires during that time ,tilting is a must lol.
Good to see it all taking shape. I'm impressed how carefully considered and methodical your work is. I'm much more of a bodger but am gradually learning to change my ways!
I should do more bodging - I might make more progress!
Great progress. Perfect amount of machining detail. Great use of the rotary table and work holding. Thanks so much for sharing 👍👍😎👍😎
Thanks!
Excellent!!! It is wonderful to see how close you are to have it ready to ride!
Getting there!
Very nice progress. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks!
Wow, that was a fast update!
Had a bit of time over the holidays to get a new one out!
Thanks for watching my latest offering. Hope you find something of interest. Please leave any questions or comments, they are always good to read. Is there anything you would like to see in more detail in a future video?
great work - I'm looking forward to seeing it in action, my brain is struggling to believe it will ride vertically just like any other bike once rolling...? but I'm very sure you must know it will.
I think it will and I hope it will. We’ll find out one way or another when I test it!
I see that you use QR skewers to mount the wheels. How successful is that? the QR skewers are quite thin and I was concerned that they are designed for a fork to hold both ends, however in the design at 2:40 am I correct that they are just passing through the 25mm square tubing and then into the QR hub? I expected the QR Skewer would bend under that load. What have you found?
It works fine, the skewers simply hold the wheels on and are not subject to any bending loads. The wheels sit on a steel axle which is cantilevered into the uprights. The skewers just hold it all together.
Fantastic! Lot of work hey?! Inspirational as always...Ive been working on a tilting elec trike myself..... nearly finished.... but unfortunately, I didnt buy a very powerful hub motor - so after all my welding - its 20kg too heavy! Im still working on it....:-)
Hi,
I'm in the prosses of planning to convert my electric Reverse trike in to a tilting model then fit it in too a Messerschmitt kr200 fibre glass body kit. I'm wanting to use a go car rack steering as the complete kit is about £80all in, weighing 4 kgs and is a simple design, weight is not a major problem.
I'm very impressed in your design and the prosses of reaching it.
I would be looking to have suspension, I would welcome your help and input if you can.
Hello MMS,
I really is very close to completion and it's first outing... will you be making a mounting for a Garmin or similar, it would be interesting to know some stats over different terrain. See you next time...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi, I will be using Strava to record the rides but I’m not expecting to break any records with the prototype.
Watching this with great interest. This combines so many of my interests. Would like to see you work out inovative ways to make it aero with fairing. Will you be making the frame out of another material whan it is all worked out and functioning with the ply wood?
I have designs for a fairing in development. I like the idea wood from a ‘green’ point of view, but I will probably go with carbon fibre for the Mk II version.
So the only point of this is stand up when stationary without outriggers?
What a great design! I'm a complete ignorant in this field but are you taking into account any steering geometry like Ackerman or Davis? Can't wait to see it running
Thanks, it has Ackerman steering geometry. One of my videos goes into this aspect in mind-numbing detail if you are interested!
👍Almost there 👍
Are they the wheels you’re going to use on the final trike? I’m asking because there’s not much ground clearance and larger wheels give a better ride.
Yes, they are 20in wheels. Most velomobiles have a 26in back wheel, but for my design, this takes too much space and adds a lot of length. Ground clearance is a bit tight and I may increase slightly on final design. I will add suspension too.
@@MetalMachineShop
I remember you said that you were considering making the front top crossmember into a leaf-spring to make the ride more compliant. If you decided to do that and you hit a traffic “cushion” or pothole it could bottom out.
When it comes to springs, something like a snow ski could probably give you plenty of vibration suppression, they absorb shock but have a damped return to stop bouncing.
20” is fine, larger wheels at the front seriously limit steering angles, and with the same size all round you get to only carry one spare
@@JohnR31415 agreed, small wheels have lots of advantages and some cons of course.
@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 yes, something like that. Some shock absorption would be good but suspension travel will need to be limited. The rider sits quite far back so the rear suspension is more important. Ground clearance could be an issue, but a carbon frame will not need such a deep ‘girder’, which will help.
so which bender did you actually buy? 😉
I resisted temptation so far because I didn't think they were any good...
but maybe I was wrong?
I got one very similar/identical to the Sfeomi 15 to 25mm tube bender available from Amazon, but I actually got it from eBay for significantly less money. It did the job but there are a few manufacturing issues which ideally need to be fixed.
@@MetalMachineShop thank you!
so as per usual - you buy from PRC as a kit of parts to work on them to make them usable :-)
Still, I guess I would have to pay more for materials....
and what you have made with it looks perfectly OK
Will have to have a look on Ebay
@@bambukouk Slightly better than a kit of parts but the grooved die doesn’t really align with the follower on the handle (a spacer would sort it). Slightly annoying as it would be as easy to make it right than as it is, but it’s an easy fix. But it worked fine and for the price (about £70), can’t complain too much.
Doesn’t the chain at the back rub against itself? It seems too close.
It’s close but not touching. Easy to adjust if it’s a problem.
I cannot avoid it... each time I see your videos it is the same question in my head... How much money in tooling is in that garage?? would you recommend a machine that could do most of the tasks?
It would be very un-British of me to answer that question honestly and in any case, my wife might find out. Most of the kit is second-hand and/or of Eastern manufacture so relatively inexpensive. A lot of the small tooling is home-made. If I could only have one machine, it would be a decent lathe - second hand is fine - plus a load of hand tools. A lot of milling tasks can be done on the lathe with patience.
@@MetalMachineShop LOL:) By eastern you mean, east European? any brands or country you could comment?
@@urnenfeld Eastern as in Asian, I.e. Chinese. Sieg machines or similar are sold under many brand names, e.g. Warco, Arc, Chester, Axeminster in the UK. They are ok, cheapest. Second hand Colchester or Harrison lathes good, but could be pricey. Depends on need and budget.
I see your project is steadily nearing it's end
I'd like to see it finished
Me too, not long now hopefully!
How can I replicate this?
I’m considering making plans available in due course if the design is successful and safe.
@@MetalMachineShop That would be great 🖒🖒🖒
SIR VERY VERY GOOD IDYA THANK YOU FOR KNOWLAG SIR YOU ARE GREAT THANK YOU AGAIN HARE KRISHNA HARI BOL
You taken almost one year to build this project some time it is too long so people lost interest following you
You're probably right. It'll take as long as it takes, this is not my main job unfortunately!