I built a number of Estes two and three stage model rockets long ago, with some being very successful, others not. It was a lot of fun for me either way 40 years ago.
Will the quick dip technique also help prevent chuffing? I have had a recent issue with an F40 reload chuffing once then burning out in my scratch built 3” patriot. I only had the one igniter that came with the reload.
Hi I have a estes mongoose 2 stage C motor and I have just bought some new klima motors for it as these are a D motor but fits in a C engine apparently thay are like 1neton from an E engine I was told so this is very impressive stuff Iam thinking of using a D9. 0 and a D9. 7 whats your thoughts of how high this thing would go thanks in advance ps love your videos very helpful stuff
Do the firewire minis work in the rms 18/20 motors? Are they small enough for the 18mm motors? Also would some NAR clubs possibly frown on "painting the core" this way and consider it a "modified motor"? A another question, that's a bit off topic, but I've noticed there are some long burn reloads intended for rocket gliders. For a very lightweight upper stage, do you think they could be used (for example D2.3)? Of course they have no delay element and ejection charge. Therefore some alternative means of deployment and recovery would be needed, but for a rocket that's already up to speed from a short burn high thrust booster, these could work as a sustainer perhaps? Are those end burning loads? On those loads would painting the nozzle end (if they are end burners) be appropriate?
Huh? Since you recommend the technique and sell the products, I would think you could provide some insight on this question. My point is that painting on a layer of Quick Dip effectively makes the delay and/or propellant grains longer in length. How about showing us the assembly of the reload you just painted?
I don't know of any other "magic" thing that increases ignition reliability, other than what you seen in my videos. Try for consistency in preparation, such as using a checklist.
Yes - same issues. The key here is not the manufacturer's name, but the words "composite propellant." That type of propellant is much harder to initiate than black powder.
hmmm, why then doesn't areotech place the same charge in their motors?? or at least on the igniter ? at least they can't say that you modified the rocket motor.
Not going to happen. They would have to redesign every motor to account for the extra slug of propellant inside the motor. But this is pure speculation.
All these awesome videos is why I'm a repeat customer
I built a number of Estes two and three stage model rockets long ago, with some being very successful, others not. It was a lot of fun for me either way 40 years ago.
Will the quick dip technique also help prevent chuffing? I have had a recent issue with an F40 reload chuffing once then burning out in my scratch built 3” patriot. I only had the one igniter that came with the reload.
Hi I have a estes mongoose 2 stage C motor and I have just bought some new klima motors for it as these are a D motor but fits in a C engine apparently thay are like 1neton from an E engine I was told so this is very impressive stuff Iam thinking of using a D9. 0 and a D9. 7 whats your thoughts of how high this thing would go thanks in advance ps love your videos very helpful stuff
Hi Tim great video thanks for the advice
Do the firewire minis work in the rms 18/20 motors? Are they small enough for the 18mm motors? Also would some NAR clubs possibly frown on "painting the core" this way and consider it a "modified motor"?
A another question, that's a bit off topic, but I've noticed there are some long burn reloads intended for rocket gliders. For a very lightweight upper stage, do you think they could be used (for example D2.3)? Of course they have no delay element and ejection charge. Therefore some alternative means of deployment and recovery would be needed, but for a rocket that's already up to speed from a short burn high thrust booster, these could work as a sustainer perhaps? Are those end burning loads? On those loads would painting the nozzle end (if they are end burners) be appropriate?
The Quick Dip looks pretty thick. Will painting the delay and/or propellant grain affect the assembly of the reload?
I don't know how your personal results will be if you don't give it a try.
Huh? Since you recommend the technique and sell the products, I would think you could provide some insight on this question. My point is that painting on a layer of Quick Dip effectively makes the delay and/or propellant grains longer in length. How about showing us the assembly of the reload you just painted?
Thanks for the video. Any idea if this could also increase ignition reliability and responsiveness for clusters of Aerotech motors?
I don't know of any other "magic" thing that increases ignition reliability, other than what you seen in my videos. Try for consistency in preparation, such as using a checklist.
Would this technique also enable me to ignite composite fuel without buying a more powerful launch controller?
Give it a try! Don't be afraid to experiment
Does reloadable motors have ejection charge ?
How about staging Apogee Medalist motors? Would doing that encounter the same problem as the Aerotech motors?
Yes - same issues. The key here is not the manufacturer's name, but the words "composite propellant." That type of propellant is much harder to initiate than black powder.
This is good to know stuff...definitely not like Estes stack type motors
Simple Timer maybe Tim??? I bought it But have not used it yet
Of Course! That is what I'd use myself.
Thanks for the info
hmmm, why then doesn't areotech place the same charge in their motors?? or at least on the igniter ? at least they can't say that you modified the rocket motor.
Not going to happen. They would have to redesign every motor to account for the extra slug of propellant inside the motor. But this is pure speculation.