I really like Emma Watson’s outfit where she wears plain jeans with the Schiaparelli jacket because it’s a visual treat to see balance of the norm and the avant garde showing how these pieces can be worn in daily life and that you don’t always need a special occasion to let the fun slip into daily wear
The animal heads in the SS23 show were inspired by Dante's Inferno. The lion, the leopard, and the she-wolf were meant to represent pride, lust and avarice. Not to mention the ginormous Dante figure head on one of the models. I personally thought it was a great way form of storytelling. It'll be fun to see Schiaparelli incorporate more of this in their future collections.
Recently managed to see the Schiaparelli exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, even coming into it with massive adoration for Daniel I was really blown away seeing the pieces in real life - the most mesmerising haute couture on the runway at the moment no doubt. If anyone manages to get the chance to see any of it in person I’d highly recommend, personally a huge inspiration for any of my work going forward - firmly sets the bar.
Must've been amazing! Brands should show off their haute couture more like that in exhibition formats, maybe not at museums but at their own locations for people to go see
@@fashionlover4 Fashion museums should so be a regular thing. Every time i see avant garde campy runways like schiaparelli i always wonder what happens to the pieces that dont get talked about and aren’t ever seen in the public again. Luxury brands, haute couture or not, should definitely open exhibitions to the public with archived runway pieces
When art critics get together they talk about Form and Structure and Meaning. When artists get together they talk about where you can buy cheap turpentine.
such a great explanation, thank you. i am in love with what the brand is doing. my favorite couture fashion pieces are those that can stand alone as art pieces
I didn’t really understand modern Art and mid-century art until very recently, and I can understand just enough that there are just some pieces out there that are breathtaking.
I think the previous efforts at Schiaparelli were concerned with referencing Elsa, forgetting surrealism, and forgetting why it's an art stream that's still relevant today. Daniel is indeed more interested in referencing surrealism and what it means, which in the end helps to evoke Elsa herself, since I think you can say it also absorbed her work. Serving the servant is not useful as an hommage to the servant, serve alongside the servant. That's what gives more power to the clothes, Daniel is able to tap into this thing that makes us stop, watch, and be transported, even though we might not understand. The previous clothes didn't have this power. And that ties in beautifully with his stated goal that you mentioned in the video, that he wants to make us have an emotional reaction. I'd love to come to one of those shows one day.
As an artist I love Schiaparelli. The show was a delight to watch. You notice how DC was not in any of the coverage? IMO, she was like the mother of the groom wearing white to the wedding.
Yes, you always do videos on the best things happening in fashion I just recently have been looking at Daniel Roseberry and his work at Schiaparelli and he’s doing the best Haute Couture in fashion right now. Thank you for the background on him and the house it’s delightful to know more. Mr. Lover4, what are your favorite brands/fashion houses right now?
The issue is money, Dior has a very rich clientele which can afford haute couture, but it has to be wearable resulting in boring haute couture collections but at the same time they sell very well.
I am sooo agree with you on that one! I would like to hear more criticism from you on some brands or collections. What on your opinion could be an objective factors in fashion critics?? Thanks for a great content and for consistency of posting! 💚💚💚
Bro Schiaparelli es pure beauty. Makes me feel gatekeepy cuz of the recent celebrity promotion lmao. Otherwise, it is for the best for Roseberry's carreer.
Not Plano being a few miles away. 👀 And def not me trying to move to NYC 😂 As a person with an architecture background, Iris Van Herpen’s work really speaks to me from a construction methodology.
Madame Schiaparelli grand daughters were very dear friends of mine many years ago! Her grand daughter Marissa was a famous actress and had a collection of old gowns in her closet that are now in museums and never to be duplicated again
You forgot to mention that Christian LaCroix was the first designer of Della Valle House and that project gave everybody the false hope ClC was back on the stage, after 6 years of hard-felt hiatus. That was not the case, and even informed bloggers like you don't remember how a great couturier he was and what extras he did...
I feel like we need to collectively stop ragging on "boring" couture. I love an exquisite theatrical piece as much as the next person, but at the end of the day that's really glorifying waste. Houses like Dior and Chanel are very client focused in their take on Couture, and I feel like that's really something to respect. Couture isn't an aesthetic. It's a system of production. You can make parade float gowns, or plain little black dresses. Honestly, it takes a lot more skill to to make clothes that are as exciting in boutiques as they are on the runway. (If you want to talk boring, Schiaparelli's clothes in stores are booorrriiiinnng without the jewelry.) Even if it's beautiful, I don't see a lot of value in creating pieces that can only be worn once or twice. That's no different from buying from Shein. With Couture, a lot gets lost in translation. Couture is about workmanship, which doesn't really come across in in still photos or video on a laptop. I trained in Couture in Paris, and I've worked as a conservator. It's frequently the more subtle pieces that are the most exquisite. Photos on Instagram don't convey how beautiful the handwoven fabrics at Chanel are. They don't give you a sense of the exquisite molding that the tailoring workshops at Dior can do. There is so much you don't see if you can't experience the clothes in person. Those "boring" pea coats at Dior will probably be the client's favorite coat. Most of the output from Schiaparelli's couture collections aren't things you can wear more than once or twice. We don't need clothes that will never be worn or only worn once or twice anymore. The Couture needs to lead by example when it comes to waste, sustainability, etc.
The issue lots of people have with Chanel and Dior's current designers is that as designers, they have virtually nothing to say to the modern fashion consumer. They see the clothes as very "timeless and wearable", but void of a true artistic vision and dated. It's similar to how Haute Couture was in the 80s and early to mid 90s. The clothes presented in those shows were very wearable, but they only appealed to a shrinking, aging clientele that were far removed from the fashion zeitgeist. Today, those houses either had gone through a hard reset in the late 90s/early 00s (Dior, Givenchy) or their couture divisions have been permanently shut down (Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci). This safeness might work for this generation, but when their clientele starts dying off, they'll be forced to start pushing the envelope again or risk becoming irrelevant. Long story short, designers like Daniel Roseberry keep haute couture from becoming the dusty, impractical art of selling dusty, expensive clothing to dusty, old rich women.
@@ladyjunon6305 The dusty old women are a stereotype. The Park Avenue "ladies who lunch" really haven't bought Couture since the 80s. It's too expensive even for them. They may buy the occasional piece for an important gala or whatever, but as a rule it's too expensive, and they're too busy. Couture is a serious time commitment. Even "society ladies" are too busy chairing foundations and such to either fly to Paris for multiple fittings, or hang around for a couple of weeks while their pieces are made up. The market for Couture today is almost exclusively Asian and Middle Eastern. They don't generally just buy grand occasion pieces. The stuff they buy is much more everyday. Beautiful suits, cocktail dresses, etc. That's really where the market is today, at least in terms of people who actually buy the clothes, rather than people who are loaned or gifted them. (Celebrities.) While I'm somewhat nostalgic for the days of Gaultier Paris and McQueen at Givenchy, Those spectacular, outlandish pieces were worn once, or in a lot of cases, never worn. It was Couture as spectator sport. It was not remotely client driven. It was about advertising fragrances and handbags. In this day and age, we shouldn't be glamorizing waste in fashion. I don't care if it's Shein or Chanel Couture, I don't want to see clothes that are only going to be worn once or twice. I get that safe collections make for boring watching, but they're pieces that the actual clients will wear over and over again. In person, they're still pretty spectacular. There's been a shift from grand gestures, to more intimate clothes. (I've always said you can't judge a Chanel Couture collection until you've actually touched the clothes. The workmanship is exquisite.) That kind of intimacy is truly luxurious. Those clothes aren't about impressing armchair fashion critics at home who shop at Zara. They're about impressing connoisseurs who truly understand the craft involved. It's about making someone's new favorite dress. Runway as extreme spectacle is dead, and likely won't come back. The few houses that still do that are younger houses building brand recognition. (True, Schiaparelli isn't a young house, but it was dormant for generations, and has had a hard time getting the kind of exposure it needs to sell purses etc. They need to go BIG to get the kind of name recognition that sells purses to women in Flyover.) More established houses are increasingly more interested in creating their client's favorite dress that she will wear for ages. Historically, that's what Couture has been about.
Agreed Schiaparelli has become one of the few to watch, Dior this season looked to me like clothes to wear to a chic funeral. I'm pleased to see less of the gold jewellery + accessories this season but the animal heads bothered me, I felt really uncomfortable watching them in this context plus I also felt uncomfortable seeing the model of colour with her face and hair painted gold, references to big game hunting + animal cruelty plus gold mining + slavery shouldn't have a place in a conscious society. Saying that most of the clothes are beautifully crafted, refreshing to see the focus on the clothes rather than the many show gimmicks other designers employ where the clothes are 2nd place
No not really. Have you seen any brand do such absurd ideas on the runway? That's why these clothes are something special. You rarely see such intricate stuff.
Haute Couture is more exclusive yes, but generally haute couture clothing is better made and more ambitious as they have bigger budgets and aren't going to be mass produced although in my opinion as I pointed out many haute couture shows don't really hit like that and just feel like typical ready-to-wear shows.
Except the part where animals are displayed as "trophy" all his designs are great. Not everybody is gonna understand the story behind it....wish animals had the previlage to walk the ramp dislaying humans head on the ramp as a fashion statement...(my personal opinion)
I really like Emma Watson’s outfit where she wears plain jeans with the Schiaparelli jacket because it’s a visual treat to see balance of the norm and the avant garde showing how these pieces can be worn in daily life and that you don’t always need a special occasion to let the fun slip into daily wear
The animal heads in the SS23 show were inspired by Dante's Inferno. The lion, the leopard, and the she-wolf were meant to represent pride, lust and avarice. Not to mention the ginormous Dante figure head on one of the models. I personally thought it was a great way form of storytelling. It'll be fun to see Schiaparelli incorporate more of this in their future collections.
I agree, but I think Daniel tackles different themes each season and doesn’t do back
Recently managed to see the Schiaparelli exhibition at the Musee des Arts Decoratifs, even coming into it with massive adoration for Daniel I was really blown away seeing the pieces in real life - the most mesmerising haute couture on the runway at the moment no doubt. If anyone manages to get the chance to see any of it in person I’d highly recommend, personally a huge inspiration for any of my work going forward - firmly sets the bar.
Must've been amazing! Brands should show off their haute couture more like that in exhibition formats, maybe not at museums but at their own locations for people to go see
@@fashionlover4 Fashion museums should so be a regular thing. Every time i see avant garde campy runways like schiaparelli i always wonder what happens to the pieces that dont get talked about and aren’t ever seen in the public again. Luxury brands, haute couture or not, should definitely open exhibitions to the public with archived runway pieces
OMG, I went to that last year and had half a mind to just grab the accessories and make a run for it. Lol
Schiaparelli is the show which I look forward to the most.
When art critics get together they talk about Form and Structure and Meaning. When artists get together they talk about where you can buy cheap turpentine.
based comment
🤣🤣🤣
Schiaparelli recently have been receiving unnecessary hate, so glad to see there is a lot of love them.
love your reflections! i feel like my perspective on fashion is transformed every time i watch you. fantastic job 🫶🫶
The intergalactic stuffs were so good. It stays in my mind until now. His design is so impactful. Not really my favorite but really respectable.
such a great explanation, thank you. i am in love with what the brand is doing. my favorite couture fashion pieces are those that can stand alone as art pieces
I just finished the longest video I have ever watched about fashion. Randomly after lookimg for Coperni robot show. You earned a new fan 😅
To me Daniel put himself right next to John Galiano and McQueen, a designer with vision
Schiaparelli Has become one of my favorite if not my favorite brands currently. The level of intricacy is always there. Great video very informing
Tbh JPG won it last season with h.a. The whole show was mesmerising
Agree 👏👏
im so thankful for Schiaparelli and Daniel, every season they just knock it out of a park every time! this is true haute couture!
I really enjoy your videos! You are brilliant and so talented. You should have your own show. Keep up the good work!
That's so kind thank you!
'Schiaparelling' adding that to my vocab thank you
I didn’t really understand modern Art and mid-century art until very recently, and I can understand just enough that there are just some pieces out there that are breathtaking.
I’ve seen some pieces at neiman marcus in downtown Dallas, they’re crazy in person the craftsmanship is another level
I think the previous efforts at Schiaparelli were concerned with referencing Elsa, forgetting surrealism, and forgetting why it's an art stream that's still relevant today. Daniel is indeed more interested in referencing surrealism and what it means, which in the end helps to evoke Elsa herself, since I think you can say it also absorbed her work. Serving the servant is not useful as an hommage to the servant, serve alongside the servant. That's what gives more power to the clothes, Daniel is able to tap into this thing that makes us stop, watch, and be transported, even though we might not understand. The previous clothes didn't have this power. And that ties in beautifully with his stated goal that you mentioned in the video, that he wants to make us have an emotional reaction. I'd love to come to one of those shows one day.
As an artist I love Schiaparelli. The show was a delight to watch. You notice how DC was not in any of the coverage? IMO, she was like the mother of the groom wearing white to the wedding.
Yes, you always do videos on the best things happening in fashion I just recently have been looking at Daniel Roseberry and his work at Schiaparelli and he’s doing the best Haute Couture in fashion right now. Thank you for the background on him and the house it’s delightful to know more. Mr. Lover4, what are your favorite brands/fashion houses right now?
He stated that his current favorite is Kiko Kostadinov. Try watch his videos on him from months ago.
Happy to help! I'm more into menswear so keep that in mind but my favourites would be kiko kostadinov, Y Project and Comme des Garcons!
you’re never wrong
Very informative deep dive into fashion.
Loved the video. Thanks for sharing this story and your perspective
The issue is money, Dior has a very rich clientele which can afford haute couture, but it has to be wearable resulting in boring haute couture collections but at the same time they sell very well.
I think I can listen to you for hours
So true.. this is the only show which give us excitement ..
Thank you for this analysis, it’s really interesting to listen to you! ❤️❤️❤️
I’m a new subscriber! Thanks you for a great video! Will definitely be watching more!
i love that fashion 4!
I am sooo agree with you on that one! I would like to hear more criticism from you on some brands or collections. What on your opinion could be an objective factors in fashion critics?? Thanks for a great content and for consistency of posting! 💚💚💚
Are lord and savour has uploaded
suffering definitely builds character, those who deny it are often downplaying their own pain
Amazing review, I've enjoyed it a lot, thank you ❤
Love this account. No bad takes.
This is literally the only atelier that seems to remember who the founder was, what she stood
for, and design with her spirit, savvy and prowess.
Absolute banger video
Wonderful review. 👏
Bro Schiaparelli es pure beauty. Makes me feel gatekeepy cuz of the recent celebrity promotion lmao. Otherwise, it is for the best for Roseberry's carreer.
I know you're working on a Kiko Heaven vid rn
Common Fashionlover4 W
Not Plano being a few miles away. 👀
And def not me trying to move to NYC 😂
As a person with an architecture background, Iris Van Herpen’s work really speaks to me from a construction methodology.
I LOVE IRIS VAN HERPEN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Great commentary!
great review learned a lot
Wow bro ur videos are awesome great job
I love your videos, could you please do a video on mowalowa and the rise of alte fashion in Nigeria
The animals were an homage to Dante's Inferno since the book speaks about 3 animals, a shewolf, a leopard and a lion
Madame Schiaparelli grand daughters were very dear friends of mine many years ago! Her grand daughter Marissa was a famous actress and had a collection of old gowns in her closet that are now in museums and never to be duplicated again
Fascinating! Thanks for sharing
This was super informative.. The narration the facts the history .. week done. Thank you for this
i love your videos
3:27 😅 sooo kyuuuttttt
Wasn't the first Schiaparelli revival collection was the one-of collection designed by Christian Lacroix?
He was supposed to but that collection fell through and never properly came out
Great vid my dear
He is the new John galiano
Good video, subscribed. 👍🏼
Jean Maurice Eugène Clément Cocteau NOT Henri Cocteau ! But , thanks cos I also love what Danial Roseberry at Schiaparelli .
isabella blow would have loved current schiaparelli, it is so her
For sure, it definitely evokes a similar feeling to McQueen's shows.
i was just curious, are you gonna pursue like a job in fashion design or planning to study it?
Amazing videoo
Henri Cocteau? You mean Jean Cocteau, right?
fantastic analysis
love love love
You forgot to mention that Christian LaCroix was the first designer of Della Valle House and that project gave everybody the false hope ClC was back on the stage, after 6 years of hard-felt hiatus. That was not the case, and even informed bloggers like you don't remember how a great couturier he was and what extras he did...
I feel like we need to collectively stop ragging on "boring" couture. I love an exquisite theatrical piece as much as the next person, but at the end of the day that's really glorifying waste. Houses like Dior and Chanel are very client focused in their take on Couture, and I feel like that's really something to respect. Couture isn't an aesthetic. It's a system of production. You can make parade float gowns, or plain little black dresses. Honestly, it takes a lot more skill to to make clothes that are as exciting in boutiques as they are on the runway. (If you want to talk boring, Schiaparelli's clothes in stores are booorrriiiinnng without the jewelry.) Even if it's beautiful, I don't see a lot of value in creating pieces that can only be worn once or twice. That's no different from buying from Shein.
With Couture, a lot gets lost in translation. Couture is about workmanship, which doesn't really come across in in still photos or video on a laptop. I trained in Couture in Paris, and I've worked as a conservator. It's frequently the more subtle pieces that are the most exquisite. Photos on Instagram don't convey how beautiful the handwoven fabrics at Chanel are. They don't give you a sense of the exquisite molding that the tailoring workshops at Dior can do. There is so much you don't see if you can't experience the clothes in person. Those "boring" pea coats at Dior will probably be the client's favorite coat. Most of the output from Schiaparelli's couture collections aren't things you can wear more than once or twice. We don't need clothes that will never be worn or only worn once or twice anymore. The Couture needs to lead by example when it comes to waste, sustainability, etc.
The issue lots of people have with Chanel and Dior's current designers is that as designers, they have virtually nothing to say to the modern fashion consumer. They see the clothes as very "timeless and wearable", but void of a true artistic vision and dated.
It's similar to how Haute Couture was in the 80s and early to mid 90s. The clothes presented in those shows were very wearable, but they only appealed to a shrinking, aging clientele that were far removed from the fashion zeitgeist. Today, those houses either had gone through a hard reset in the late 90s/early 00s (Dior, Givenchy) or their couture divisions have been permanently shut down (Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci).
This safeness might work for this generation, but when their clientele starts dying off, they'll be forced to start pushing the envelope again or risk becoming irrelevant.
Long story short, designers like Daniel Roseberry keep haute couture from becoming the dusty, impractical art of selling dusty, expensive clothing to dusty, old rich women.
@@ladyjunon6305 The dusty old women are a stereotype. The Park Avenue "ladies who lunch" really haven't bought Couture since the 80s. It's too expensive even for them. They may buy the occasional piece for an important gala or whatever, but as a rule it's too expensive, and they're too busy. Couture is a serious time commitment. Even "society ladies" are too busy chairing foundations and such to either fly to Paris for multiple fittings, or hang around for a couple of weeks while their pieces are made up.
The market for Couture today is almost exclusively Asian and Middle Eastern. They don't generally just buy grand occasion pieces. The stuff they buy is much more everyday. Beautiful suits, cocktail dresses, etc. That's really where the market is today, at least in terms of people who actually buy the clothes, rather than people who are loaned or gifted them. (Celebrities.)
While I'm somewhat nostalgic for the days of Gaultier Paris and McQueen at Givenchy, Those spectacular, outlandish pieces were worn once, or in a lot of cases, never worn. It was Couture as spectator sport. It was not remotely client driven. It was about advertising fragrances and handbags. In this day and age, we shouldn't be glamorizing waste in fashion. I don't care if it's Shein or Chanel Couture, I don't want to see clothes that are only going to be worn once or twice.
I get that safe collections make for boring watching, but they're pieces that the actual clients will wear over and over again. In person, they're still pretty spectacular. There's been a shift from grand gestures, to more intimate clothes. (I've always said you can't judge a Chanel Couture collection until you've actually touched the clothes. The workmanship is exquisite.) That kind of intimacy is truly luxurious. Those clothes aren't about impressing armchair fashion critics at home who shop at Zara. They're about impressing connoisseurs who truly understand the craft involved. It's about making someone's new favorite dress.
Runway as extreme spectacle is dead, and likely won't come back. The few houses that still do that are younger houses building brand recognition. (True, Schiaparelli isn't a young house, but it was dormant for generations, and has had a hard time getting the kind of exposure it needs to sell purses etc. They need to go BIG to get the kind of name recognition that sells purses to women in Flyover.) More established houses are increasingly more interested in creating their client's favorite dress that she will wear for ages. Historically, that's what Couture has been about.
Talking haute couture while the background is giving walmart clearance sale 🤣
you better drag Maria Grazia Chiuri
you need to appear more on video. otherwise, it feels like a podcast. also, there is a limit to how much b-roll one can use before it becomes boring.
I admit I was a bit lazy editing this video, my bad
I feel that Gao Pei should be in the top three.
It's clear that there are some really gorgeous designs but Daniel can also create some painfully contrived looks.
Agreed Schiaparelli has become one of the few to watch, Dior this season looked to me like clothes to wear to a chic funeral. I'm pleased to see less of the gold jewellery + accessories this season but the animal heads bothered me, I felt really uncomfortable watching them in this context plus I also felt uncomfortable seeing the model of colour with her face and hair painted gold, references to big game hunting + animal cruelty plus gold mining + slavery shouldn't have a place in a conscious society. Saying that most of the clothes are beautifully crafted, refreshing to see the focus on the clothes rather than the many show gimmicks other designers employ where the clothes are 2nd place
how are these clothes different than the clothes at fashion week. Is this more "elite" because its one of one clothing?
No not really. Have you seen any brand do such absurd ideas on the runway? That's why these clothes are something special. You rarely see such intricate stuff.
You don't know the difference between haute couture and rtw?
@@rodrigombl452 thats why i asked
Haute Couture is more exclusive yes, but generally haute couture clothing is better made and more ambitious as they have bigger budgets and aren't going to be mass produced although in my opinion as I pointed out many haute couture shows don't really hit like that and just feel like typical ready-to-wear shows.
3:45 If Toni Collette was a model
Gorgeous...
👌👌👌👍👍👍
Jessie ware believe
Except the part where animals are displayed as "trophy" all his designs are great. Not everybody is gonna understand the story behind it....wish animals had the previlage to walk the ramp dislaying humans head on the ramp as a fashion statement...(my personal opinion)
😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣🤣🤣🤣!!!
O Mon Dieu.... even poor Elsa would be rolling over in her grave 🤦
'This is your little brain on extreme drogas'.... sick.
Weeping with laughter sometimes! Let’s face it many of these are dumb!
its similar how ivanka trump saved her fashion label that was made in china
Damn you’re cute.. sorry to be so simplistic.
I honestly just came here to watch the video. 🥂
🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️
Hanging stuffed animal heads on models is "saving" Schiaparelli?!?! Egad.
Why are you so cute :3
yeah but where are you going to be wearing this, what is the value of unwearable fashion?
u r so very cute
First!
9:43 is that Anna Wintour falling asleep? 🧍♀️
No actual human being would wear 90% of this crap.
African kings wore that lion head centuries ago... the movie Coming to America