How to Prevent Turbo Failure in GM 1 4L Engines - Cruze, Trax, Encore, Sonic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2024
- Doing this will save you big money down the road.
The GM Part # is 25200947 I used a Dorman one which is 625-829
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And to think, if GM had just put larger normally aspirated engines in their vehicles instead of these tiny turbo engines, most of these parts wouldn't be present, eliminating these issues.
They also wouldn’t meet the fuel mileage standards
@@frugalprepper sure they could. Just look at the competition with normally aspirated engines. They get similar economy.
@@frugalprepper They are garbage all those 1.4l turbo engines are a absolute joke
Designed to fail. Sell more parts and service.
Thats why when I bought my 14' sonic new, I decided to go with the 1.8L naturally aspirated. At least that year that I know of you could get both engines. I didnt like the idea of a small turbo engine.
Thanks for the video and bringing this problem to GM owners attention. Based on your video, I decided to change the oil feed pipe on my 2012 Sonic Turbo with 160K miles. I ordered a part (cheap from Amazon and probably Chinese) and replaced the pipe. However, I found that my original pipe was not blocked at all and totally free flowing. I suppose the problems might arise if owners don't change their oil regularly (I change mine ever 5K miles). In any event, the part I received was also a tight fit and required some persuasion to get it in. Also, the turbo banjo bolt with the new pipe appeared to have the wrong threads, so I had to reuse the original bolt, but with new gaskets. Again, thanks for bringing this my attention Better safe than sorry.
the Chinese parts will work just fine in the Daewoo engine. cheap Chinese stuff for a cheap Korean power plant.
WOW! I 'LL BE CAREFUL TO WATCH OUT FOR THREAD DIFFERENCES, I DON'T WANT TO CHANCE STRIPPING ANYTHING!!
I got the same Dorman as in the video (although it had the same torx-bit size as the original, and I used a T40). My biggest problem was a very stiff AC hose running right over the top of that third cover bolt.
The secret is to change your oil when the oil life monitor is at fifty percent. Also, turbo's use a lot of air so make sure your air filter is changed often.
Also, if you have been driving hard, you need to let the vehicle idle for a few minutes before turning it off. That will also help to not cook the oil in the turbo.
Lol regular folk don't have time for all of that. Only diesel owners have to do that
@@warriorplutotrent3827 well, it's your engine.
I bought a 2020 Trax has 21k now. I change oil every 3k without fail. Started working on European cars back in the 70's. Done many rebuilds because of extended oil changes. Regular oil changes is the key to longer engine life. Love the tip on turbo oil feed line ordered my parts already.
Good stuff
Here is a great tip. Been doing it for YEARS. About 500 miles before oil change throw in 1/2 qt or top off up to 1 qt of GOOD synthetic ATF. Its mostly "soap"/detergent. It will make a 200k engine with poor maint look like 5k miles inside after like 2 oil changes. Crazy good deslidger.
Just be careful if the engine is super dirty it might plug the filter, loose oil pressure and not go well. Have a spare oil filter ready to go.
ATF is basically Mavel Mystery Oil .. FAA approved.
I do advanced engine development for the big 3. You have/are driving my stuff.
This engine has a bypass filter. Like most engines do.
@@frugalprepperso does this trick not work then?
I replaced my turbo with a new Toyota, and glad i did.
😂😂😂
What about the turbocharged toyotas?
@@stephenkiszenia79if you just look at anything with a gm turbo, it will run hot just by looking at it🤣🤣
Sir Thank you. I was able to fix a P0299 code (turbocharger underboost) all by myself spending $22 (just changing the waste gate) when I was told I had to pay $1200 to replace the whole turbo.
Dude why didn't you go to a pick and save or a Kenny u pull you would have paid way less like my bumper was holey cus someone slid into the back of it during winter I got an almost new bumper with 2 little letters scratched into it for $50 same color as my car instead of paying 800 all I gotta do is sand it and repaint where the 2 letters are like 1200 is a waste when u could have got the same part for maybe $100
What car? I have a 2020 Buick with 25k miles throwing a P0299 code and esc and power steering warning ? Runs fine tho
@@zaefitness9326 I have a Chevy trax 2019
I just got the same code, did you do any trouble shooting before you bought the waste gate??
Do you have a email I can contact you on? I have the same code in my 2017 buick encore and really am not trying to buy a whole new turbo. If I had some help walking me through the process you did that would be a godsend 🙏
Replaced my turbo last year for a mad crack at the wastegate. Also, the previous owner used some head gasket stop leak (which only worked for a while), which caused a bunch of overheating issues down the line for me. I got the head gasket replaced under warranty, luckily.
It makes me think the previous owner ran the car til at least 8k miles before oil changes...
Replaced every line to and from the turbo, except for the coolant feed line since it didn't have the attachment fitting pre-installed. I always change the oil between 3k and 3.5k miles, and I haven't had a single issue yet. I feel like Chevy really screwed the average consumer with the oil life monitor on these tiny 1.4t engines.
Morals of the story: change your oil at no more than 4k mile intervals, and don't ever use Stop-Leak when your coolant starts disappearing. These engines last much longer when maintained at a preventive level rather than a reactive level (e.g. oil life 50% rather than 5%)
Having just performed this turbo oil line task I feel the need to add a couple things to be aware of. During oil line removal one of the 2 top heat shield bolts backed the stand-off out. Once shield was removed was able to secure stand-off and remove bolt. The fan housing interferes with bottom heat shield bolt removal if using 3/8 drive socket; I had to flex fan housing in order to get ratchet on bolt (1/4 drive socket should eliminate clearance problem). My Torx bit set was a bit shy of size for banjo bolt on oil line; a couple wraps of masking tape got rid of wiggle. After removal I found the original line was as clear as the new line (2017 Encore) so I re-installed the original line. As stated in the video the oil line bolt and heat shield bolts are “torque-to-yield” and should be replaced; I was not concerned about re-using the shield bolts, but I will replace the oil line bolt.
Good instructive video, only pointing out a couple “aw craps”. I tend to take “What can go wrong...” to another level :)
With a turbo charged engine you have to keep clean oil in it. I use Mobil 1 with a Mobil 1 filter, and Change no longer than 5k miles. Don't buy cheap oil or cheap filters. All the folks I've talked to that have had to replace turbochargers have greatly extended their oil change intervals and used subpar products. I like your tip on the oil feed line. I plan to change mine immediately. My 2015 Cruze RS LTZ has 114k miles now.
Yeah I always use a Dexos approved full synthetic and I change when the oil used hits 50%.
@@frugalprepper Nice job, you will never have issues. I just replaced the oil feed line on mine. My tube was wide open. Wasn't restricted a bit after 114k miles.
What is the dorman part number for this replacement
Well here is another data point.. I use the cheapest non-synthetic 5W-30 oil I can find but change every 6000miles, have been using it for the last 95k miles.. I did change out the oil feed line but it was free flowing. I changed it anyway (at about 100k miles) because it was the earlier version. I'm now at 140k miles on the original turbo. What I did do was to change out every piece of coolant hose under the hood at 125k miles, as there was significant degradation from the inside. After that the thermostat housing let go.. Thankfully my Wife shut it down immediately and we did not warp the head.
@@frankish5314 Hence the reason I don't buy used cars with more than 30k miles because of oil changes like that. That engine requires Dexos oil. Conventional doesn't cut it.
My wife just bought a 2022 Buick Encore. Thanks for the advice. Great tip.
Glad to help
After you install the oil line, you should start it up and check it for leaks before you put the heat shield back on
Yeah you will know if it leaks, it is a high pressure line.
Great video. Just lost the turbo in my wife’s encore. Wish I had seen this video a while back…🤦🏼♂️
195,000 miles on my 2017 cruze. No problems.
Thanks. I am researching this because of an intermittent P0299 code. I haven't looked under the heat shield yet. One video I watched said the wastegate goes bad. Someone took the keeper from the actuator of the gate loose and it squeaked like a dry hinge. So more than one thing might be a fault. I agree with Tim above about the changing the engine oil on time and using correct oil. Dirty oil will add crud combined with heat to restrict a passage that is susceptible. These newer vehicles are kind of weak but work. A replacement for real engines. Nothing will ever be the same. When no cars are being sold the dealers have to buy what they can to move the car along. This means parts. I was told these encore's are from South Korea(?). I like some of their countries guitars. I don't know about the auto end of things. The quality of parts.
The Encore, Sonic, Trax are all made in South Korea by the former Daewoo (Now GM Korea) plants. However these newer ones are designed by GM and have all GM electronics unlike the older ones which were all of Korean design with Korean computers rebadged to GM, which you had a hard time flashing with the GM tool.
Hi,I have a 2017 ,with the same issue intermediate low bost code p0299,what was the outcome off yours I been driving it but I think it's time to fix the issue, thanks in advance
I was having this same issue. Intermittent p0299 code. I replaced the wastegate actuator and solenoid and I has been fine since.
That third bolt was the worst thing about doing this on my wife's Sonic. I had a VERY stiff AC hose going right over the top of it. Getting a socket in there on it was impossible. I ended up using an 8mm wrench (open end) to get it off turning it in very small increments... as well as having to do it left handed because I couldn't get the angle in that tight space with my right. Getting it back on sucked even more.... other than that, the rest of the job took two minutes. Thanks for posting this.
Had a massive turbo fail in our 2014 encore. Took the dealer a couple moths to fix because it blew them as they replaced them. Not sure what they did but so far so good.
I just replaced my wife flex pipe and dealer want $800, her milage was 39000, 2017, so now i know this ill do the maintenance even though she has a warranty! Of course not on maintenance issues!
They wanted $800 for this job right here?!?!? I would never go back to that dealer for anything, ever. Scheisters!
“It’s just an oil line”
Famous last words after purchasing a Dorman product…
It still works fine. GM didn't have one in stock for it.
Fantastic. Thanks for posting this. I don’t see much about these 1.4 turbos on TH-cam. Daughter has a Sonic. CVT fluid change is a real PIA.
They don't have CVTs.
@@daddi04 your right. I got it confused with my sons Lancer. At least the Lancer has a dipstick.
Great tips and recommendations for 1.4 Eco owners. Thank you!
You bet!
Got one in the shop right now, pulled turbo to change all lines and oil cooler and found both the exhaust housing cracked and so much play in the turbine shaft that it has started to touch the housing. 66k miles
Finally! I Want a Trax (2024) real bad, but I needed this Video!
That's nice, I wouldn't buy a new car. They loose 50% of there value when you drive them off the lot. I woul s ook for a low mileage on that is 2 years old myself.
Thank you to the powertrain engineers at GM for this fine design. Crappy EGR and turbo durability. Good work.
No doubt! But it's Okay. It's easy to work on if it breaks.
Don't forget the serpentine belt under the engine mount and bracket, that uses 6 TTY bolts to cost you $60 just to replace the bolts whenever you need to get at the belt/alt/ac/HB/tensioner...
LOOKS LIKE GM CARS ARE MADE FOR AFTER -SELL PROFITS. EXAMPLE : THE MALIBU WATER PUMP IS MOUNTED TO THE FLYWHEEL - EXPENSIVE JOB!!! ALSO, YOU MUST REMOVE THE FRONT BUMPER COVER TO CHANGE THE HEAD-LIGHTS - NOTE, THEY'RE DAYTIME RUNNING LIGHTS, WHICH WILL REDUCE THE "LIFE - EXPECTANCY". THE WIPERS ARE ABOUT $44.00
But piss poor PCV valve design that causes many problems with this engine.
Make sure to watch that egr valve and water pump. Pretty easy to work on!🤩🇺🇸👍
By having to forcing it in its probably a tighter fit. Which may prevent leaks. Those aftermarket guys are pretty smart.
IT SEEMS IT WOULD PUT PRESSURE ONE ONE SIDE OF THE FITTING ( "O" RINGS )- MAYBE NOT?
Just got the turbo changed on my 2011 Cruze. Mechanic only replaced the oil drain line(because it broke upon removal, of course!) and not the feed line...which was clogged. SO, the new turbo was ruined and the drain line melted. Two weeks and 2 turbos later, I have my car back. That feed line is definitely a problem!
I won't even do these, unless the customer agrees to replace the Feed Line, Drain Tube, the Articulating Coolant Lines and the Seals on the oil cooler. They are all common failures (even more common after moving the around to change the turbo) and they require removing the turbo to get too. And they are only in it for parts plus on extra hour. I have had a few customers tell me no, that's fine there is no shortage of work for me to do. And they are the customers that will be back wanting me doing it for free because something went wrong.
If you own a car with an ecotec 1.4 turbo (Encore, Cruze, Sonic, Trax) know the terms UFI and Hengst. If you use a Hengst oil filter in a UFI housing you are basically running you car WITHOUT an oil filter. Read and fully understand TSB 17-NA-184. The ONLY way to know which filter your car needs is to look at the cap for the filter and see if it is labelled Hengst or UFI. The filters both fit and even entering your VIN will not tell you which one your car has.
Wish I had seen this 6mo or a year ago!!! Just had to replace the turbo in my 2015 (96k miles).
Bro same I'm at 136k I must had a very well built one
This was as quick and easy as he says if you have the right tools.
Tools are an investment that will save/make you money your whole life.
Man!! I have 2015 buick encore with 100k miles. I never knew about this. I'm ordering the part today. Thanks for video!
Glad I could help!
Mine has 136k same year yours awd or fwd. Mines fwd Ruby Red Metalic
You are my next favorite or equal to #scottykilmor!. Very plan and to the point. I can see the turbo piece being used at a party!lol. Love the work.
Thanks, but I hope I am not equal to Scotty. If so I need to do better.
Comparing a mechanic to Scotty kilmer is a horrible insult to any mechanic.
I replaced a cracked turbo on my 2015 Cruze with a GM made one and it cracked again a year later, replaced oil lines as well. Put an Amazon aftermarket 350$ turbo on and it has lasted for years now.
I just bought a 2014 cruze 2 months ago and my line blew while driving last week. Dealership paid foe the tow and the repair because i bought the extended warranty. Oh yeah, the car only had 31,510 miles when i got it. Definitely keeping up on all the little shit.
Yeah I have heard of that feed line blowing or the bolt comes loose and it leaks oil everywhere.
Knowing the turbo oil line is as prone to failure as the thermostat housing, EGR and water pump on the 1.4T, I decided to be proactive and replace it with the Dorman 625-829 five months ago. It failed yesterday.
Did it fail by plugging up or leaking?
@@frugalprepper Failed by leaking. Ironically, the original one survived right at 100,000 miles and wasn't clogged in the least.
@@daddi04 mine Made it to 136k.
Anytime I use Dorman I consider it a bandaid.
First time was practice! At least you know the bolts will be nice and easy to get out lol
I have a 2014 trax, only changed the turbo return line once. 270, 000 kilometers on it. Have used only pure synthetic oil since brand new. Change oil every 7000 kliks.
1:50 FYI: You can get a turbo cassette for around $65. They are very easy to install and get you up at a fraction of the cost.
What is a turbo cassette?
Blew my turbo twice installed from a dealership in a row. It's crazy but I see now and I'm on it. Thanks brotha maybe next time I will buy a better one 🤔lol
How much did you pay to fix it?
2k first time around. 2.5k the next. with the turbo on warranty. Really irritating lol I did all mine at a dealership tho
there is a service bulletin on the turbo and if it's diagnosed and is the same issue, they will fix your turbo for free and waive the diagnostic fee@julissalindsey7611
i am not really confident in myself to try this but i am going to because i did get the part but i took the car to a mechanic who tried to tell me it would be a minimum 4 hour job to replace this. i said to him not from what i saw on youtube and i showed him where it was and described exactly what you showed in the video and he said no that is wrong and he would need to remove the manifold to replace the line. i said thank you for your time and left.
You can do it. It is pretty easy.
@@frugalprepper well i have a P0234 so this oil line is listed as one of the solutions as wellas the wastegate sylenoid and the boost sensor (both of which i also bought)
I change my oil in my 2014 Trax frequently, and I use full synthetic oil. I’m at 175k, car is 8-years old. Don’t think I’ve ever encountered a problem with the turbocharger.
Thats Good!
Clean clear oil won't plug as much. People suck on maintaining their vehicles. I'm almost due for a change. Full synthetic every time.
I have a 2016 with 157K mi. I use Amsoil and change at regular intervals. My turbo died last week, that's why I'm watching this video. Once I've changed the turbo I'll do this every 50k mi 🙂
What did it sound like when your turbo dies I’m having a screeching/drill noise when accelerating in first gear. It goes away after a few seconds. Any guess
@@williammills7778did your car studder when you stopped? I have the same year changed the waste gate and the map sensor but it keeps wanting to stall
I have a 2018 Encore and had to change mine too. It needed to be slightly bent too. I also got a letter in the mail saying they have failing turbo's and to let them know if it was replaced to get a refund for it. If not it has a 120,000 mile limit to where they'll cover it. I guarantee mine will fail right at 120,001!
Looks like it might be an idea to design a different oil feed line to come out and around the heat shield - instead of going UNDER that HOT manifold. Looks like a notch cut into the shield over the banjo fitting to clear the line would be all that's needed. You would only need a extra few inches of line and the oil doesn't get cooked.
You could do all that, or you could just change it every few years and spend 5 minutes and $20.
GM is really good at not doing obvious tweaks to the point where it's clear they're feeding their dealerships work. I'm going back to Toyota after I run my course on current GM cars/trucks. Too many BS problems like this.
I've got 88,500 miles on my 2015 RS Sonic. Factory turbo still boosting to 16psi and I drive the living hell out of it. I have had a water pump replaced during warranty and stupid plastic cooling inlet/outlet a couple of times. Car still runs as strong as it was new. Perhaps I've been lucky but I run Mobil 1 and change the oil every 6,000 miles. Cooling system sucks but I have ZZP Intake and cat back 2.5" exhaust and I love this little 1.4
Just replaced the water outlet on my wife's cruze. I got sick of the oem ones cracking and bought an aftermarket aluminum one. Cheaper and hopefully will hold up alot better. So far no issues after 1500 miles I would recommend
88k? Practically new 😂 I've got a 2013 RS with 270k miles. Trifecta/BNR tuned to 23psi with a ton of various mods over the years (exhaust w/ downpipe and high flow cats, intake, 42lb injectors, e85, etc.) I've taken it back to stock except for the tune now. I've owned it since new and it still pulls just as hard to 22.5-23.
I had my SONIC 2019 waterpump out at 39,000 miles. Crazy. I see there was a recall on the earlier SONICs for the waterpump. 55,000 miles and turbo is good, but just had the VVT gaskets start leaking.
Always remember to start engine before you put exhaust shield to ck for leaks.
You will know if the high pressure line has any leaks directly over an exhaust manifold.
These are an extremely high maintenance car, you always have to keep ahead of the curve. I bought mine new in 2017 & have 25k miles on it. I'm changing the ATF & do oil changes between 4-5 k miles. I always idle it down for 5-8 minitues after a long drive... Just trying to prevent failures...These are the worst cars to buy used, as unless their mainatined from day one, they are ticking time bombs..... If I knew then what I know now I would have never bought it.....I also have a 2005 Toyota Matrix with 210k miles, I'm the 3rd owner...It will out live the Trax I'm sure..........
Yeah you have to change the oil. The tranny in these (the non GX ones) is a Toyota designed transmission. They are cheap, easy to work on, and the parts are not expensive. I think they are great.
That heat shield seems like it would just hold heat in in the long run. Might be better to add some venting so it can lose the heat
It will melt the plastic around it.
@@frugalprepper THANKS! I DIDN'T KNOW THAT!
These Opel designed 1.4 / 1.5 engines are packaged awful, bunch of rubber hoses packed next to a plate style cooler, and humping a turbocharger and a catalytic converter. I've had 4 Volvos with over 250K miles each, all with the turbos they were born with, zero failures.
Sounds like you should stick with them volvos!
@@frugalprepper I sure as hell am not buying a GM with a 1.4/1.5
@@jamesgeorge4874 Then how and why did you stumble over to this video?
Those chrome foil like sleeves to protect parts of heat are found on many other types of vehicle pipes. The doorman comes with one on its part you showed. Could another larger , maybe bit longer one from another car part be slipped over that oil feedline tube right over the foil it already comes with to double the protection.
Maybe you could. I just replace it every 30K miles or so.
After the third turbo I made my oil supply line that comes in the front no problem now
Can we see your set up how did you route it
I have replaced a couple of those engines,headgasket went out of them.It was cheaper to buy a good used engine than buying the parts for them.Dorman has a lifetime warranty on their parts
For sure, by the time you buy all the gaskets and head bolts, labor, and machine work it would definitely be cheaper to buy a good used engine and they aren't to terrible to swap out either.
@@frugalprepper The timing chain kit too,replacing the timing chains and guides too
@@frugalprepper Good to know. My 1st cruze got to 307,000 on original engine & turbo. Far as I know it had like new compression. My 2nd cruze with half the miles is a handful at times.
Great information, thanks for sharing!
It sounds like synthetic oil should be required for these engines.
My approach to avoiding turbo problems is Toyota and Ford hybrids. No turbos, no superchargers, no GDI, no belts (includes timing belt), no 10 or 11 speed torque converter automatics, etc.
Electric car goodness without the electric car drawbacks. These cars are electric cars with gasoline assist. The main electric motor is geared directly to the drive axle (same as Tesla). When needed the gasoline engine assists through the planetary gearset. The small electric motor works with the gearset to set the gasoline rpm at the optimum speed (CVT action). A nicer experience than a regular automatic transmission. And these hybrids get pretty good fuel economy.
It is required. Dexos approved oil is always full synthetic.
Thanks for this info I’m working on my 18 Cruze my Intercooler was full soo now I gotta see what caused it
That's great to know. I have a 2015 trax and I'm sure I need to replace that.
Did it work for you?
hey tom ive seen the oil return plastic line cave in and plug up too... yea the check valve in the intake blows out puts positive pressure in the crank case and blows out the pcv in the valve cover i think its a torx plus size on that banjo bolt holden made that engine for gm i think
Yeah, but I am sure I will have to remove it eventually for the coolant lines or the oil cooler. I am just going to wait and replace that then.
Very helpful thank god for guys like you keep up the great work.😊
Thanks, good to know. Buying a 2020 Trax hoping to get 200k out of it. ))
There’s a fix for the PCV issues. The PCV is part of the valve cover so the whole valve cover is replaced. Someone mentioned that a guy in Florida??? has designed a PCV “ bypass” tube that runs along the top of the plastic intake and I think he said it also runs to the turbo to “ keep it running cooler”??? As many other things on this and a lot of newer cars many parts are mad3 of plastic. The valve cover, the intake as well as part of the cooling system are plastic on these engines ( Encore, Cruise, Trax and Sonic. The 2020 Encore has a new hopefully improved version engine. We just recently had a few really cold days and my son’s Encore showed a “ check engine “ light. A mechanic friend checked for codes and there were two. Without looking into it further it appears either the PCV partially froze or the turbo did. After a long run to warm up the engine the check engine light turned off and hasn’t come back on since ( 2 weeks ). Twice in heavy rain on the highway the engine went into low power mode for a few seconds while passing another vehicle or kicking down a few gears on a long steep hill. Codes at that time showed that cylinder 1 had 103 misfires, 2 had 41, 3 had 14 and cylinder 4 had 1. Don’t spray water on the engine cover area!
PCV is located in the plastic intake. GM’s “ fix “ is to replace the intake and the valve cover. Then wait a few years because it will happen again. The Kit I mentioned is designed to replace the GM PCV valve with a couple hoses and a by pass valve.
Thanks for this. Fricking love my encore.
How
@@sheezac5446 Lol. Perfectly valid question, my friend.
There is a lot there to like; IF you appreciate not having ALL of the modern cars’ bells and whistles.
I like the heated seats; the auto start, the 18 inch wheels standard (on the leather package and up), also I like the integrated navigation; the tire pressure monitors are a big plus; and my favorite is probably the dual zone climate control….
There are many negatives; like being completely under-powered, even considering the turbo; the turbo is use an attempt to make the tiny 1.4L engine be able to have a passing gear…. Lol
Its also great on gas mileage; and if you have a tire on your encore with the designation of “-C”, this is actually the proper tire for the 2014-2016 Encore; it takes a specially-made type of tire that is custom-made for the encore.
This is a cool fact and all; but a pain in the tushy when you even begin to just CONSIDER what the cost would be to replace all 4 tires; luckily; the car does great on tires and I’ve had mine for 2 years; and i live in Kansas City; so the winters are extremely cold and the summers can get up to 110 F 115 F; yet, I have only had to add air to the tires one single time; and aside from that; I have driven it down to Texas and back a few times since then; and I keep an eye on the tire pressure monitor sensors and have never had an issue with needing to air them up again.
They are really well made cars; they are not great cars if you like to work on one yourself; because its like trying to do heart surgery on a plane with chopsticks; because everything is so literally crammed in there; you have to remove several items just to be able to assess a small oil leak from the transfer case;
So, needless to say; it IS nice; it IS a consumer-grade luxury brand (Buick), as I worked for GM/Buick back in 2014 when this car came out; and I had learned so much about it and (at the time) what was new technology; and has many warning lights; blind spot monitors; etc.
There is a lot of things the Encore could have received as far as additional power/accessories/features; but, for the money; they really are great cars; again, as long as you do NOT like working on your own car; and dont mind paying the dealership to do so.
My turbo was bad on my 2017 Buick Encore. The oil line was not clogged, no leaks in the intake. I was about to replace the turbo when I received a letter from Buick. If the car has a problem with the turbo and has less than 120,000 miles and is less than 10 years old, GM has to replace the turbo. After 6 weeks at the dealership, I got my car back. New turbo, oil lines, etc. Cost? $0.00
Use good oil and this will never be an issue. Yea the oil line is in a terrible spot. Deal it or don’t get the car. I have the exact same car with zero issues.
I use good oil, and many of my customers have too, and they have turbo failures, so I will replace mine.
i wonder if i can just make a new line that rounds around the other way...
I WAS LOOKING TO SEE IF ANYONE ELSE EXPRESSED THIS IDEA- TO REDUCE THE HEAT - BEFORE FINDING YOUR POST .I ALSO THOUGHT ABOUT A TUBE WITH A LARGER HOLE ( LARGER THAN DORMAN'S LINE) HOWEVER THAT WOULD REQUIRE WORK BEYOND MY KNOWLEDGE & WILLINGNESS. PROBABLY, REMOVING THE STRUCTURE ,HONING A LARGER HOLE, RETHREADING, PROPER FITTING WITH "O" RINGS - TOO, TOO, MUCH!!
I leave that cover off let the heat escape. And I use some extra heat shielding sleeve from DEI.
Yeah I don't do that. I was to leave the heat shield on to protect other things around it from continued heat and just replace the pipe ever 20-30k miles.
THAT SOUNDS LIKE A REASONABLE IDEA!!
The key is to change oil twice as often as the dash says. Also getting issues fixed as soon as they happen. These engines do. It take to ignoring maintenance. They get expensive
damn thats alot of oil changes
not really
Get some basalt fiber sleeve and wrap it, will need something heat resistant to fix the ends (safety wire?).
Agree on using the heat sleeve. We use stainless steel wire to hold in place....twist & cut and tap/bend the ends down so you don't snag yourself in the future. Or I suppose if you want to look fancy....use small stainless steel hose clamps.
Thank you for the video! I’ll replace this with my next oil change
do u know if we have to drain the oil or can we just do it off the bat
@@sremik I just assumed it would be best to replace it while the oil is drained
You don't have to drain the oil.
I have a 2012 lemon 🍋 i mean cruze 😄 key for the turbo to last is to warm it up& wen yu get to yor destination let it idol so it cool dwn been through 5 turbos on mine
I just replaced the turbo oil feed line on my Encore that has about 33,000 miles on it. It didn't have any sign of plugging. I suspect people take their cars to a budget oil change place or a dealership that use the wrong oil. Full synthetic is recommended for this engine.
And they don't change it enough.
@@frugalprepper I change mine when the car tells me to.
I change in when the oil usage hits %50
DEALERSHIPS ARE IN THE BUSINESS OF MOSTLY SELLING CARS - WOLF GUARDING THE HEN HOUSE- WHEN YOU DEPEND ON THEM TO PROLONG YOUR ENGINE'S LIFE
A T45 fit mine. I had to clean the socket head out and then tap the T45 bit into the socket head but it fit.
Just happen to run across this. thanks for the information 💪🏽
No problem 👍
nice tutorial. I went out and checked mine. not plugged. I verified the pre load on my waste gate while I was at it. However, you failed to mention getting the lower heat shield screw off was difficult and getting it back on was nearly impossible.
I guess I didn't find it tough on nearly impossible.
@@frugalprepper maybe my problem with the sonic ac lines 3/4” from the bolt isn’t like that on the Buick in your video
Lower heat shield is the easiest job. If you can’t do this then don’t touch anything on that car.
Clearance on the lower bolt on the Sonic is TINY. Genuinely easy to do on the Cruze and from the looks of the video also the small SUVs. Not so on the Sonic.
How did you check to see that it was not clogged?
Same process if you happen to have the 1.2L & 1.3L engines.
That’s not an EGR valve in the valve cover; it’s part of the PCV system and fails after the nipple in the intake goes. That’s where the P0171 comes from
Well you know EGR.... PVC... They both have 3 letters. LOL
How is it we still have oiling issues with engines? I for one welcome our electric overlords...
Being a youtuber.. why not get some header heat wrap and kind of stick it between the banjo bolt and behind the header, between the line... and see if that makes any dif.. Great follow up video for all those CLICKS!!
I will just spend $15 every 30K miles or so.
Heat alone doesn't cause the line to block up. Regular maintenance will prevent it.
Heat does cause it.
I just put it off every oil change, carb cleaner do their job well. plug it back and ready to go
Great tip!
Is there any preferred oil that would help mitigate the clogging of this line? Maybe high mileage oil?
Other question; is there any concerns with introducing air from the replacement line into the system?
Air is not a problem. I don't know about the oil. I just use dexos oil and change it every 30-40 thousand miles
The best way to fix one of these is to trade it in for a Toyota.
Never Trade In a car. You sell you old one privately and pay cash for the new one!
Update on ATF "Drain & Fill" 2017 Trax AWD 25655 miles Fluid was Dk brown with a tinge of red...The car is mainly over the road miles, not much stop & go.....Very disappointing.....I can imagine how the fluid looks at 50k plus miles......This job takes 2 people as someone needs to be watching under the car at the fill level plug (removed) when the other person is doing the fill......Turned out to be a bit of a mess......Will do another "Drain & Fill" in 10k miles.........
The transmissions are plentiful in salvage yards and the are an easy one to replace. I am not that worried about it.
I just replace my turbo on a 2011 cruze .. oil leaking out of the charge air hose connected to the turbo. Any ideas on why or what can cause this, i replaced the oil line, oil return, and oil feed lines.
I put an after market PVC hose since the it cracked.
The entire engine just seems chintzy to me. My mom has the Cruze with this engine.
Next oil change, I'll replace that line for her.
Yeah all engines are getting more chintzy these days. Multiple valves with VVT and turbos. All to meet the fuel economy standards and still have enough power to get on the interstate.
Curious, why wouldn't GM just use a bigger engine instead of this shoddy turbo? I'm taking my 2015 Trax in for the 2nd time for turbo failure. I only have 25k miles on the vehicle so it's still new in that sense.
You can blame congress for that one! Fuel Mileage standards.
🤔I have a 1.8 non turbo Cruze 152,000km, standard. The kiss principle. But after a few videos I can't go on a long trip.😰
Can you post the link here for that Dorman tube. Thanks
What if you just changed your engine oil at 4k instead of 10k and maybe let the engine idle for 1 or 2 min after a hard run to allow the oil and turbo cool down a bit
I change the oil at 50% usage on this one. That may good enough. Just don't change your oil feed tube for 100K miles and let us know. You could save like $13 that way!
The turbo will kick fan on after it shuts off if the turbo is hot. The fan will run and cool it off.
@@frugalprepper $13 adds up :)
yea have a 2014 chevy cruze eco 95k miles, im going to check oil feed tube. havent had problems just want to be one step ahead!@@frugalprepper
What about the oil return line and the 2 coolant lines?
Everyone with the mystery coolant reservoir that goes low with no visible leaks: it’s one of the turbo coolant lines. (Assuming the t-stay housing and water outlet housing aren’t leaking. )
I am not replacing the coolant lines or the bottom plastic oil return, unless they are leaking (which the do leak some times), or if you got to pull the turbo you may as well replace them while you have it off. I also do the oil cooler gaskets any time a I pull one, they are a common oil leak on these too, especially for someone that doesn't keep there oil changed regularly.
I wonder if an oil feed line could be made that runs straight out away from the engine block for a few inches, then curves towards the turbo but *outside* of the heat shield (and away from the exhaust manifold), the then turns in to the turbo to make the connection there. Not only would that move the oil line away from the exhaust manifold and its heat, but would expose the oil line to the movement of air after it passes through the radiator (hot, but much cooler than being cooked by the exhaust manifold...)
Just wondering. If I had this car, I'd try to make one of those myself using the end fittings from the original oil line, and a new piece of longer pipe for what I have described above.
Seriously! Has anybody tried running without the heat shield to keep the area a little cooler.
Really tried it? Experience!
I know I know... plastic stuff in the area. But has anybody tried it. Maybe with exhause wrap on the manifold. In grand GM style, if you want to fail a turbo... put the oil line there and cook it!
Working on one of these now, 60k mi and water pump failure. Trying to "bomb proof" the rest a bit.
Thanks!
I haven't. I will just spend the money ever few years and replace it.
Something to replace at my next oil change in a few weeks. Put 40k on my sonic last year, so probably I'll just make this a yearly thing. Easy enough to do.
Pcv valve not an d egr valve... In the valve cover
The problem with the line is not heat. The diameter of that line is too small. Gm needs to increase the diameter of that line. No engine is more important than this engine to use synthetic oil. Synthetic oil is much thinner then regular oil. I think some users aren't using the correct oil. It's a shame the turbo is integral to the exhaust manifold. it adds a lot of cost to the work & to the time of the repair. Had to do a lot of work to our 2016 Buick Encore due to a coolant leak from the turbo. They have 2 coolant lines attached to the turbo, behind it on top. Also 2 oil lines. It's more work then it needs to be. Even doing it myself still cost $300 using AC Delco parts.
Yeah I only use DexOS approved oil. I always replace the articulating coolant lines, oil cooler gaskets, and the plastic oil drain line, when I pull one of these turbos.
I just cut those coolant lines off the turbo. Gm uses some special one off tool to remove them. The normal fuel, oil disconnect tools don't work in this case. They were the ones leaking anyway so it wasn't a problem. I also change everything you did when doing this job
I would wrap the line with kawool and follow that with aluminum tape that oil line will never get hot again
Or, run 100% synthetic oil after engine breakin, which doesn't cook to sludge and block lines. I noticed decades ago that engines run on synthetic oil never needed oil pan sludge burned out... the stuff doesn't carbonize or form sludge. Just wipe the pan with a cloth and it looks as clean as the day it was new.
Yes Synthetic Oil also turns to sludge and breaks down. They have the same additive packages and the absorb the same amount of carbon and have the same amount of fallout.
@@frugalprepper Talking of synthetic blends? I'm a pioneering user of 100% synthetic from decades ago. It doesn't sludge. I had an 1981 Celica with 252k on the odometer. Removing the oil pan, the only thing I needed to do was wipe it out with a cloth... shiny metal was left. I switched to synthetic 40-years ago because it didn't "burn" and carbonize... the necessary step in creating line-blocking sludge. I also change oil only every 3 or 4 years regardless of mileage, and I stopped wearing high-mileage motors out. The body would rot away but the engine compression was still good. I have a fairly new Encore with 9,000 miles. After break-in I switched to synthetic, and I'm not going to worry about the turbo oil line. If the line clogs and eats the turbo, I'll drop back in and be the first to admit I was wrong. But, I doubt you'll be hearing from me. :)
@@mnpd3 Your Toyota ran cooler than modern cars and wasn't direct injection. Big, big difference.
I don't believe there's a turbo issue with these. I've repaired several of these with P0229 and P0420 codes with only a a new catalytic converter gasket needed. What happens is the catalytic converter becomes fouled and lightly clogged. This causes too much backpressure triggering the P0229 at first. Overtime, the P0420 starts showing its face as the cat becomes more obstructed.
To fix the issue, I remove the catalytic converter, plug one end with a Oatey PVC test plug and soak in a mix of hot water and degreaser. Greased Lightning works great. Let soak for a couple hours then thoroughly flush with water. Reinstall. Problem solved.
I disagree from my experience. When the turbo's scatter they need replaced. If I suspect a plugged converter then I will test it with a pressure transducer and my pico scope. If it is plugged it gets replaced. I have done so many of the turbos on these and all of them have ran for 10's of thousands of miles afterwards.
I have a brand new 2022 Buick encore gx 20k miles and turbo just went on it
Wow! That sucks!
That turbo replacement job would cost more than the value of the Cruze.
No not usually. I know it depends on the condition and age of the car, but Normally can be done under $2k that includes replacing the articulating coolant lines behind the turbo, the oil drain, and the oil cooler seals.
Gfb bov so nice
Funny some duche stripped the 10 mil drain plug on my Buick too
Great video. Thank you ! I just subbed
Thanks for the sub!
Great video but I either missed something or you didn't show it. The end of the oil line that fits in with 2 oil seals on it ( the other end from the banjo bolt ) is held in with a small bolt????? I didn't see you take it out but I am guessing where it because you showed it when you put the new part in. Y like other commenters suggestion to change oil more often ( I always have with all my cars because it's still fairly cheap insurance against future issues. You say 5 k "mile oil" changes which I guess is 8000 kilometers which has been my oil change schedule and the oil service warning still shows over 35%. By the way how did the re-bent oil line hold up at the " non-banjo bolt hold up? I would think that changing the angle by bending it like you did might cause some "oil seepage"? My wife's Encore is a 2019 and you said yours is a 2016-17???? which is probably the same as the 2019. I also agree that some extra insulation on the line wouldn't be a bad idea and some " header wrap" over that part of the exhaust manifold, maybe even a small amount of holes drilled through the heat shield in that area. What this vehicle really needs is about 20-25 more horsepower and torque. I wonder if there's a DIY way to accomplish that without requiring a switch to higher octane fuel ( a liter of 87 octane is between $1.55-$179 Canadian dollar) up this way and 4 liters equal 1 US gallon so do the math. I find that this vehicle doesn't accelerate to badly but passing at highway speeds takes some planning as the engine is screaming away but the speedo is barely climbing at all. Strangely at about 2200 rpm doing 105 km/hr or 65 mph it will climb up a fairly steep hill with relative ease.
I have arrived late to this video, my car with the same engine (B14net) I had to change the complete turbo, for the damn tube, take advantage and I have changed the water pump and tensioner and the service belt. The sad thing is that the car has 72,000 KM, - (44,000 miles approx. )
out of curiosity I have tried to unlock the tube, so far I have not succeeded,
I will replace the pipe frequently. or every year.