There are some many of these nowadays that someone should do a comparison review of all of them. Petzl Connect Adjust, Rock Empire Pip, Climbing Technology Tuner, Edelrid Switch Adjust and Camp Swing as far as I know.
Yes. Just waiting for that video to come out too. Also, I don’t think he mentioned that you can adjust it under load. Whereas the Petzl you can’t. That’s mostly why I want a comparison, a lot of the new lanyards adjust under load apparently... Probably not full potential load, but I am hopeful for a noticeable benefit.
@@francescovaroli6893 he did in passing. I have the CT Tuner because of the under weight adjust what annoys me is how fat is the rope. I'd want it to be like my double, an 8.2 to easily make a knot in the middle to extend rappel the way he shows it. So this looks good.
Happy to see someone else setting up anchors with the rope as seen at 7:00, it's a great method that's super quick and gives a tonne of flexibility in its use.
I really only use mine single pitch rope soloing. Keeps me safe setting up the top rope, and really handy for setting up a directional. I like the ideal of being able to adjust under weight for the last one.
the Dolomites are pretty much right in the Alps. 😁 Anyway - the 9.5mm Rope always kept me from buying the connect. But now 8mm of the PIP is great! Thanx for the video!
Skinnier rope definitely a big selling point, petzl is just a bit too big to really want to keep on my harness for repointing which is why I occasionally still use a sling
I'm a big fan of the Beal Expresso for work and for alternate multipitch. You get the two main lengths you end up using with a sliding/adjustable PAS without the dangling cord hanging around your waist constantly :)
I have the Petzl and use it heaps in sport climbing, obviously for threading anchors but more often for going in hard at bolts to give my belayer a rest, but also to practice moves. Both work way better than a quick draw. I don't bother with the little rubber keep but use a big Petzl williams screwgate and it never gets twisted or cross-loaded. Not sure i would want an auto-locker
I used a static 120cm sling for securing myself on the via-ferrata routes while taking a rest all these years... Thank God i didn't fall into it.. I have 110kg of weight naked without any gear whatsoever.. No way this sling would hold me falling into it without breaking (or without breaking my spine..)... I watched a few videos on this topic and it's crazy how little it takes for a typical via-ferrata slip/fall.. even from such small distance.. to break normal static slings.
Slings are 22kn these days. Idk if a factor 2 fall on them could generate anywhere near that. I do suppose your spine could complain about whatever force you do generate
@@eman660 Depends. A factor 2 on a dyneema sling can generate ~17kN which is more than enough to snap it if you've tied a knot in it or maybe even if you've girth hitched it to your belay loop - and 17kN is enough to cut through some belay loops. Nylon slings are far safer in that regard - hard to generate more than 10kN. Still not exactly safe though.
This rock empire pip thing seems like a perfect replacement for the Kong Slide. I rather have my PAS attached to my tie in points with a fig8 and also having a butterfly loop always there to attach my abseil device.
Is there an appreciable strength difference between the pip (8mm rope) and petzl connect adjust(9.5mm)? Descriptions online for the pip mention it will take the force of a factor 1 fall but not to go above the anchor (generally good advice), whereas I don’t see this mentioned for the connect adjust.
User Note #7. Precautions for use mentions not attaching other gear to the rope adjuster and that a knot can reduce the cord’s strength by half. I took a photo of that section but don’t seem to be able to post the photo.
Ah, got you. Yeah that's talking about connecting something else to the actual adjuster bit, not a knot like I'm talking about. Any knot weakens any rope and we're right to exercise caution with that, but in this context, abseiling, it's not going to cause any catastrophic failure.
I wish they would sell these with an open end so you can choose how to tie yourself in, also a bit of extra rope would be nice so people can customize to their ideal length.
It has been a while since I've watched any of your videos (maybe 3-ish years?) And it is really noticable how much you have improved your editing and presentation skills. On a different note, I find it pretty interesting that you find the rock empire design to be easier to release under load conpared to the petzl daisy. I haven't used the rock empire one before, so this is just my intuition speaking, but it seems like it would be nearly impossible to release it in the situation you are sitting on it in an overhanging environment (given I don't know when you would actually be in that situation other than maybe aid climbing or getting up to anchor shenanigans at a weird anchor) but you wouldn't be able to pull on the tail end of the daisy to help release it if you were in that kind of awkward situation, judging by the geometry. (I did admittedly mod mine by tying a small loop of 3mm cord into the metal bit of the connect adjust, so that is likely playing into things. It is nice to be able to clip an alpine draw into that loop, stand up on it and have it completely release for you.)
Thanks for the kind words! I'm not sure I'll regularly be wanting to release one of these under load but the metal piece has a hole in you can crank open with a nut key or skinny nose crab. It's a bit jerky but effective, the nut key works really well kind of making a lever.
Hey Jez, great vid! Question for you - is there any issue with tying an overhand on a bite in the PIP and attaching your ATC biner to that new loop vs clove hitching it into the system? Thanks!
Question for ya: how easy is it to extend the Rock empire adjustable sling with only one hand? Scenario is you unclipping the carabiner from your harness and are holding it with one hand and reaching with it to clip and need to extend it as your reach (and your other hand is already in use). Thanks!
Thanks for another great video Jez! Recently treated myself to a Petzl Adjust after years of using slings, but have found that it's somewhat of a nightmare to extend when there's any load on, not even fully weighted. Is the PIP any smoother to extend than the Adjust? Cheers!
Pleasure! It's definitely easier, plus does have a little hole on the adjustable bit where you can get the nose of a skinny carabiner in, or a nut key, to use as a lever which you really need if it's fully weighted.
You mentioned that the RE PIP can be released under "weight". If a climber was fully hanging and it's fully loaded (e.g. if something happened when starting an overhang abseil) , is it releasable? There is supposedly a trick to use a biner tooth, and if necessary, a sling to release the petzl connect, but I've never done it. If the RE PIP can be released under full load (which should be safe because there is effectively a sewn stopper knot just like the connect), that would be one more plus.
Yeah you can release it under load. You need a lever of some sort in the little hole (it's a bit like that on a belay device with guide mode). I found a nut key works best but a skinny nosed wire gate works too. It's a bit jerky but definitely doable.
I recently got the edelrid adjustable lanyard. I can release it under load one handed in a controlled manner without any extra leverage. My only complaints are that it's a bit harder to extend unloaded than the petzl until you get the hang of it, and it will slip if using a non oval.
@@JBMountainSkills definitely more than the petzl but it does include a biner. I got mine for 25% off so ended up being similar to the petzl +carabiner.
@@gorillacowman1Slippage of the Edelrid Switch Adjust is actually not a result of the shape of the carabiner, it's the cross section of the carabiner. I haven't played around with the sport version yet, but on the pro version, Petzl carabiners are prone to slippage, they are too wide and don't rotate well. I then tried an Edelrid Steel carabiner, that was too thin, it blocked the rope really well, but didn't allow releasing under load, as it got pulled too far into the device. Looks like you really need to stick to their carabiner, which is kind of a no go for me, as I need a steel carabiner for work, and I'd prefer an autolocker on the sport version.
Hey Jez. I know you were using it for demonstration purposes in this vid, but do you always use a prusik when abbing with the Giga Jul? I tried it the first couple of times and it was a total faff, so just use it on its own and rely on the auto-locking function. Works pretty well and is quite smooth with practice.
Depends what I'm doing. When I'm doing an extended abseil the device will be in manual and I'll 100% use a prusik. I do sometimes abseil in assisted mode, without a prusik which like you say is smooth when you're used to it, but it will slip if you let go and you're near the bottom of an abseil.
Regarding the Hollowblock, Sterling says "DO NOT use this product as a primary load bearing connection in any system, whether to rope or to any other anchor point." Like you have done @3:50 . The American Mountain Guides Association approves the use of a chunky 22kn nylon sling for this application. If you use a 120cm sling, it is long enough that you do not need an additional lanyard. Thanks for the review! Being able to release one of these lanyards under load would be huge for aid climbing or work at height. Keen to see the new Edelrid version too.
Interesting, thanks. I’ve used a sling like you suggest but I prefer my set up, although actually I don’t usually use a hollow block, but a Simond sewn prusik rated to 22kn.
Personally I live on the dual connect. I love rapping (abseiling) and it is made for it. Instead of shortening your adjustable length rope to tie a rap device on like in the video, you always keep it on the fixed length lanyard. It allows you to adjust how close you need to be to set up the anchor on one end, while keeping your rap device at a fixed length away from yourself and it can basically never touch your third hand. I hated the look of the thick rope of the single connect, but when I saw how handy the dual is for rapping off a multi pitch route, I bought one and honestly never take it off my harness.
@@JBMountainSkillsWhere did you find that CE number? I wrote an email and asked for specifications or a rating. All I was told is that it can handle a load of 10kN. Apparently they only do in-house testing, but no infos on test procedures. I wished there was more transparency. Can you get reliable information on this?
@@shockw4ve91 the CE number is on their website, either on the instructions pdf or conformity pdf. It's also marked on the PIP I have, and the instructions that came with it.
@@JBMountainSkills It says CE1019. But that is not a rating. That 4 digit number tells you where it was tested, not how it was tested. I bought mine because of your video and sold my Petzl on ebay. The Pip is way better, but I don't like this mandatory bare minimum certification stuff when it comes to PPE. The Petzl is UIAA 109 certified. I guess Rock Empire wanted to save that money..
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There are some many of these nowadays that someone should do a comparison review of all of them. Petzl Connect Adjust, Rock Empire Pip, Climbing Technology Tuner, Edelrid Switch Adjust and Camp Swing as far as I know.
Yes. Just waiting for that video to come out too. Also, I don’t think he mentioned that you can adjust it under load. Whereas the Petzl you can’t. That’s mostly why I want a comparison, a lot of the new lanyards adjust under load apparently... Probably not full potential load, but I am hopeful for a noticeable benefit.
@@francescovaroli6893 is there already a video about this? thinking about buying 1
@@francescovaroli6893 he did in passing. I have the CT Tuner because of the under weight adjust what annoys me is how fat is the rope. I'd want it to be like my double, an 8.2 to easily make a knot in the middle to extend rappel the way he shows it. So this looks good.
Happy to see someone else setting up anchors with the rope as seen at 7:00, it's a great method that's super quick and gives a tonne of flexibility in its use.
Its a neat way :)
I really only use mine single pitch rope soloing. Keeps me safe setting up the top rope, and really handy for setting up a directional. I like the ideal of being able to adjust under weight for the last one.
the Dolomites are pretty much right in the Alps. 😁
Anyway - the 9.5mm Rope always kept me from buying the connect. But now 8mm of the PIP is great!
Thanx for the video!
My pleasure!
Skinnier rope definitely a big selling point, petzl is just a bit too big to really want to keep on my harness for repointing which is why I occasionally still use a sling
Yeah I like the skinnier rope. Obviously still more chunky than a sling, but for sure a bit nicer than the 9.5mm rope on the Connect.
I'm a big fan of the Beal Expresso for work and for alternate multipitch. You get the two main lengths you end up using with a sliding/adjustable PAS without the dangling cord hanging around your waist constantly :)
I have the Petzl and use it heaps in sport climbing, obviously for threading anchors but more often for going in hard at bolts to give my belayer a rest, but also to practice moves. Both work way better than a quick draw. I don't bother with the little rubber keep but use a big Petzl williams screwgate and it never gets twisted or cross-loaded. Not sure i would want an auto-locker
I used a static 120cm sling for securing myself on the via-ferrata routes while taking a rest all these years...
Thank God i didn't fall into it..
I have 110kg of weight naked without any gear whatsoever..
No way this sling would hold me falling into it without breaking (or without breaking my spine..)...
I watched a few videos on this topic and it's crazy how little it takes for a typical via-ferrata slip/fall.. even from such small distance..
to break normal static slings.
Slings are 22kn these days. Idk if a factor 2 fall on them could generate anywhere near that. I do suppose your spine could complain about whatever force you do generate
@@eman660
Depends.
A factor 2 on a dyneema sling can generate ~17kN which is more than enough to snap it if you've tied a knot in it or maybe even if you've girth hitched it to your belay loop - and 17kN is enough to cut through some belay loops.
Nylon slings are far safer in that regard - hard to generate more than 10kN. Still not exactly safe though.
Please give us also test of Rockempire TWIN Belay device. Seems to be extraordinary too
Looks very similar to the camp swing. Same sort of guide mode feel
This rock empire pip thing seems like a perfect replacement for the Kong Slide. I rather have my PAS attached to my tie in points with a fig8 and also having a butterfly loop always there to attach my abseil device.
Kong slyde is ok, the PIP is definitely nicer to use though :)
Petzl Connect Adjust are really good for one of the long-cows-tails for SRT (caving etc), wonder if the Rock Empire 1 is as good for that?
I would think so :)
Is there an appreciable strength difference between the pip (8mm rope) and petzl connect adjust(9.5mm)? Descriptions online for the pip mention it will take the force of a factor 1 fall but not to go above the anchor (generally good advice), whereas I don’t see this mentioned for the connect adjust.
Good question and I’m not entirely sure of the answer! Both will of course be strong enough for their intended uses 😊
User Note #7. Precautions for use mentions not attaching other gear to the rope adjuster and that a knot can reduce the cord’s strength by half. I took a photo of that section but don’t seem to be able to post the photo.
Ah, got you. Yeah that's talking about connecting something else to the actual adjuster bit, not a knot like I'm talking about.
Any knot weakens any rope and we're right to exercise caution with that, but in this context, abseiling, it's not going to cause any catastrophic failure.
Appreciate the review and the techniques!
My pleasure 👊
I wish they would sell these with an open end so you can choose how to tie yourself in, also a bit of extra rope would be nice so people can customize to their ideal length.
It has been a while since I've watched any of your videos (maybe 3-ish years?) And it is really noticable how much you have improved your editing and presentation skills.
On a different note, I find it pretty interesting that you find the rock empire design to be easier to release under load conpared to the petzl daisy. I haven't used the rock empire one before, so this is just my intuition speaking, but it seems like it would be nearly impossible to release it in the situation you are sitting on it in an overhanging environment (given I don't know when you would actually be in that situation other than maybe aid climbing or getting up to anchor shenanigans at a weird anchor) but you wouldn't be able to pull on the tail end of the daisy to help release it if you were in that kind of awkward situation, judging by the geometry. (I did admittedly mod mine by tying a small loop of 3mm cord into the metal bit of the connect adjust, so that is likely playing into things. It is nice to be able to clip an alpine draw into that loop, stand up on it and have it completely release for you.)
Thanks for the kind words!
I'm not sure I'll regularly be wanting to release one of these under load but the metal piece has a hole in you can crank open with a nut key or skinny nose crab. It's a bit jerky but effective, the nut key works really well kind of making a lever.
Hey Jez, great vid! Question for you - is there any issue with tying an overhand on a bite in the PIP and attaching your ATC biner to that new loop vs clove hitching it into the system? Thanks!
Not at all in a safety sense, I just find it usually takes up too much of the lanyard rope.
Thanks so much!@@JBMountainSkills
Good to know. Thanks for your expertise.
I believe that Petzel’s documentation warns against ever knotting the Connect-Adjust as JB did.😊
I’d be intrigued to see that, I’ve not seen it on the booklet that comes with a Connect.
glad you like it, its made in czech repoublic so its nice to see that its liked in western europe aswell :)
I'm liking it :)
Question for ya: how easy is it to extend the Rock empire adjustable sling with only one hand? Scenario is you unclipping the carabiner from your harness and are holding it with one hand and reaching with it to clip and need to extend it as your reach (and your other hand is already in use). Thanks!
Using a lever like a nut tool, quite easy.
Thanks for another great video Jez! Recently treated myself to a Petzl Adjust after years of using slings, but have found that it's somewhat of a nightmare to extend when there's any load on, not even fully weighted. Is the PIP any smoother to extend than the Adjust? Cheers!
Pleasure! It's definitely easier, plus does have a little hole on the adjustable bit where you can get the nose of a skinny carabiner in, or a nut key, to use as a lever which you really need if it's fully weighted.
You mentioned that the RE PIP can be released under "weight". If a climber was fully hanging and it's fully loaded (e.g. if something happened when starting an overhang abseil) , is it releasable? There is supposedly a trick to use a biner tooth, and if necessary, a sling to release the petzl connect, but I've never done it. If the RE PIP can be released under full load (which should be safe because there is effectively a sewn stopper knot just like the connect), that would be one more plus.
Yeah you can release it under load. You need a lever of some sort in the little hole (it's a bit like that on a belay device with guide mode). I found a nut key works best but a skinny nosed wire gate works too. It's a bit jerky but definitely doable.
I recently got the edelrid adjustable lanyard. I can release it under load one handed in a controlled manner without any extra leverage. My only complaints are that it's a bit harder to extend unloaded than the petzl until you get the hang of it, and it will slip if using a non oval.
@@gorillacowman1they look good, pretty pricey though?
@@JBMountainSkills definitely more than the petzl but it does include a biner. I got mine for 25% off so ended up being similar to the petzl +carabiner.
@@gorillacowman1Slippage of the Edelrid Switch Adjust is actually not a result of the shape of the carabiner, it's the cross section of the carabiner. I haven't played around with the sport version yet, but on the pro version, Petzl carabiners are prone to slippage, they are too wide and don't rotate well. I then tried an Edelrid Steel carabiner, that was too thin, it blocked the rope really well, but didn't allow releasing under load, as it got pulled too far into the device. Looks like you really need to stick to their carabiner, which is kind of a no go for me, as I need a steel carabiner for work, and I'd prefer an autolocker on the sport version.
Hey Jez. I know you were using it for demonstration purposes in this vid, but do you always use a prusik when abbing with the Giga Jul? I tried it the first couple of times and it was a total faff, so just use it on its own and rely on the auto-locking function. Works pretty well and is quite smooth with practice.
Depends what I'm doing. When I'm doing an extended abseil the device will be in manual and I'll 100% use a prusik. I do sometimes abseil in assisted mode, without a prusik which like you say is smooth when you're used to it, but it will slip if you let go and you're near the bottom of an abseil.
@@JBMountainSkillsNever experienced it slipping myself, but I’ll be careful.
Thanks for the demo.
Rock empire much better
Pleasure!
Dang, looks like nice bit of kit but these dont seem to be available in the US!
Ah that's a shame, it's decent!
Regarding the Hollowblock, Sterling says "DO NOT use this product as a primary load bearing connection in any system, whether to rope or to any other anchor point." Like you have done @3:50 . The American Mountain Guides Association approves the use of a chunky 22kn nylon sling for this application. If you use a 120cm sling, it is long enough that you do not need an additional lanyard.
Thanks for the review! Being able to release one of these lanyards under load would be huge for aid climbing or work at height. Keen to see the new Edelrid version too.
Interesting, thanks. I’ve used a sling like you suggest but I prefer my set up, although actually I don’t usually use a hollow block, but a Simond sewn prusik rated to 22kn.
@@JBMountainSkills You Decathlete you :)
What are your thoughts about the dual connect? I use a Petzl adjust as my main lanyard but I’m considering the upgrade
Personally I don't have any need for the dual version in any of my climbing so I've never bothered buying one.
Personally I live on the dual connect. I love rapping (abseiling) and it is made for it. Instead of shortening your adjustable length rope to tie a rap device on like in the video, you always keep it on the fixed length lanyard. It allows you to adjust how close you need to be to set up the anchor on one end, while keeping your rap device at a fixed length away from yourself and it can basically never touch your third hand.
I hated the look of the thick rope of the single connect, but when I saw how handy the dual is for rapping off a multi pitch route, I bought one and honestly never take it off my harness.
Had to get the Instagram anchor in the background didn't you
😂😂😂
Thank you very much :)
I haven't seen anywhere how many KN it is rated for on there website. Just curious with the smaller rope.
It quotes the CE number on the website, to meet that particular rating it needs to be min 15kn. (Can’t remember CE number off the top of my head)
@@JBMountainSkillsWhere did you find that CE number? I wrote an email and asked for specifications or a rating. All I was told is that it can handle a load of 10kN. Apparently they only do in-house testing, but no infos on test procedures. I wished there was more transparency. Can you get reliable information on this?
@@shockw4ve91 the CE number is on their website, either on the instructions pdf or conformity pdf. It's also marked on the PIP I have, and the instructions that came with it.
@@JBMountainSkills It says CE1019. But that is not a rating. That 4 digit number tells you where it was tested, not how it was tested. I bought mine because of your video and sold my Petzl on ebay. The Pip is way better, but I don't like this mandatory bare minimum certification stuff when it comes to PPE. The Petzl is UIAA 109 certified. I guess Rock Empire wanted to save that money..
Thanks
To which norms is it certified, i can't seem to find any information online.
CE but cant remember the number, it's on the Rock Empire website though.
🐝
😂
falling into a prussic is not recommended.. they usualy melt afaik..
I'm not talking about falling on to one here, the idea is to stay snug on them.
@@JBMountainSkills just saying :)
@@as3fawf 💪