We have always used bone meal mixed into the soil pre planting and added to the planting hole before setting in the plants, never had much problems with BER over the years.
one part milk, five parts water. spray when the sun is out (contrary to the normal foliar-spraying times) and it will provide calcium instantly and also help kill any fungus. May sound silly, but ive saved many plants over the last few years using this method
I use even parts of Almond Milk and water. The almond milk has more calcium in it. Last year was my first year and this recipe workout immediately and it's great! I use it in my cucumbers and peppers also. I have a very tall raised bed and all the tomatoes plants got a 1/2 gal of the mix for 3 nights and it was amazing! No more end rot.
I'll bet if you have your soil tested, you'll find you already have calcium in your soil. The guys in your soil have to break it down in order for soil to take up and use.
Mulch. Especially if you have sandy soil that doesn't provide consistent moisture and has poor cation exchange capacity. All that calcium has to be dissolved in water in the soil for the plant to take it up, and it has to be dissolved in water to move through the plant.
My early tomatoes had endured temperatures down in the upper 30's while settling their first tomatoes, without any signs of blossom end rot. So, I can't see temperatures affecting calcium uptake unless there is already a deficiency.
Good common sense information. I am new to planting tomatoes and made the mistake of adding Epsom salt at the first sign of end rot. I wish I would have watched this video before planting.
I grind up egg shells to a fine powder. A handful of the powered egg shells and a handful of alfalfa pellet powder in each hole as I plant the tomatoes. These items ground to a powder should be ready for take up by the plants early in the growing season.
why dull the blades of the machine for a small amount of calcium, with all the waste of time? agricultural lime or even hydrated lime are more readily available and pretty cheap in large bags. having adequate levels of sulfur or other acids in soil (ph under 7.0) is what makes calcium ions able to dissolve and move.
You can use blackboard chalk too. But reality is that it must be consumed by soil microbial life in order for it to be soluble to the plants. That takes from 12 to 36 months. GYPSUM is your friend if you grow tomatoes. Maintain a soil pH between 6.4 and 6.8 and a balanced fertilizer and a cup of gypsum and a cup of bone meal and your tomatoes will be awesome. BER will not be a big problem.
I started adding ground egg shells to my tomato soil years ago. Every year I add a bit more. The shells I added 4-5 years ago is probably mostly gone now, broken down to a form the plants can absorb. So it's not bad advice per se, it just takes time to work.
@@antoniajuel9582 : takes lots of time and lots of eggs, if you're going to do the whole veggie patch, many years in advance. and then for bonemeal keep the bone scraps, grind them up, etc. Garden lime is cheap and doesnt take years of egg shell collecting etc. With all these organic hacks, before you know it, your whole life starts revolving around collecting waste products, that will be the magic bullet in soil fertility. it's called not valuing your own time and effort. the money you save, ends up usually more money spent. each to their own though. now i just grow great veggies without wasting all of my life on it.
@@antoniajuel9582 as long as you add them consistently no problem they will do exactly what you expect. The problem lies in people adding eggshells to their soil expecting that those eggshells will remedy blossom end rot. They will not. It takes time for bacteria to break that down so it is plant available.(in truth MOST soil contains adequate calcium, but gardeners allow their soil to get out of range. That is when your pH is out of a range of about 6.2 to 6.8. a little more towards the acidic side will slow down tomatoes because the plants will only tolerate a certain amount of acidity. On the other end of the spectrum if you allow your soil pH to get to 7.8 you are most definitely going to have issues with blossom end rot. At that pH calcium is not obtainable to the tomato plant it cannot lift calcium unless that calcium is dissolved. Out of range it won't dissolve. Too acidic and the acidity negates the calcium they act against each other calcium is an alkaline metal, much like reaction between vinegar and baking soda vinegar being the acid and baking soda the base.)
Lol ! You are a scientist, Lordy! I need to learn a lot to be successful. That is a lot of info to take in. but very helpful and much appreciated ! but I will study all of this and try it . the soils is my big problem. Thanks again!
Here in North Alabama things went out of control early we stayed cool to May and then jumped to upper 90s near a hundred by first week of June and then remained there. It just isn't going to be a season for Tomatoes no matter what you do. Fortunately for me we get two Tomato growing seasons here. I'll plant my Fall Tomatoes late July which will be small plants when I plant them so blooms won't come out during the still hot temperatures of Summer but as more agreeable Fall weather starts to appear. Sometimes I still have Tomatoes on plants come Thanksgiving.
Same here. Compost and an addition of straw on top has kept me from getting BER, especially since I've done away with commercial fertilizers and pesticides.
I dry the eggshells in the oven then use a blender to grind them and tums to powder, sprinkle it then water. Doing this every 2 weeks really kept ber in ck.
Inconsistent moisture seems to be the cause for me, I get it when there's an odd rainstorm since we're dry most the summer. Once that rain comes it makes half my tomatoes go bad.
my tomatoes have it bad this year.....I think that I over fertilized and maybe over watered...my theory is that all my garden is in beds, and the beds seem to evaporate water quicker.....I was using a strong nitrogen fertilizer for several weeks then to a more balanced fertilizer, once weekly....we have a watering system but since its been so hot and dry, I've hand watered almost every day...we went away for 4 days and surprisingly the garden seemed to do well without the extra watering....
Too much moisture (Rain) causes BER also and I've tried everything under the sun and get it every year. It's also always warm here while my tomatoes are growing. I'm about to grow just cherry tomatoes until they breed a variety that doesnt get BER. Or pick all my tomatoes green😢
I would assume, just like in the human body, magnesium is required to best utilize the available free calcium. In other words, you can ingest all the calcium you'd like, but w/o magnesium, you just pass the large majority of it right back out. I'd guess folks saying to use epsom salt understand that the free calcium is already available to the soil, but the plant lacks the water and magnesium to actually use it.
~reaches through the screen to virtually scratch the pooch behind the ears~ I have a gypsum question.. what do you think about using left over drywall.. soaked and broken up of course, in the garden to counter act hard clay?
A sudden convergence of ants in the garden, or a line of ants moving up and down a tree, usually indicates the presence of aphids, mealybugs, or other sap-sucking insects that attack plants. Treat for the insects and ant problem will get better.
No amount of calcium in your soil is going to help your tomatoes if the plants can't take it up. If the plants dry out in between waterings you're going to get blossom end rot. This is why I keep my plants mulched. I hardly ever get blossom end rot because I apply a mulch early on. Too much nitrogen will also cause blossom end rot.
![[Re:all TREASURE] EP.6 in 방콕ㅣ🚩 쩡캠의 방콕 투어 빵 마이 와이 👍](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/uyFw-nItA_s/mqdefault.jpg)
I use powdered milk seems to work pretty good
What about using bone meal. I put a fertilizer and bone meal ....in the bottom of the planting hole. On my tomatoes.
We have always used bone meal mixed into the soil pre planting and added to the planting hole before setting in the plants, never had much problems with BER over the years.
I use it also and have it every year. Too much rain!
@kansasgardener5844 add more, I use it heavily pre loading the soil and a good handful in the planting hole.
I do the same thing .
one part milk, five parts water. spray when the sun is out (contrary to the normal foliar-spraying times) and it will provide calcium instantly and also help kill any fungus. May sound silly, but ive saved many plants over the last few years using this method
That does not work buddy!
I use even parts of Almond Milk and water. The almond milk has more calcium in it. Last year was my first year and this recipe workout immediately and it's great! I use it in my cucumbers and peppers also. I have a very tall raised bed and all the tomatoes plants got a 1/2 gal of the mix for 3 nights and it was amazing! No more end rot.
I'll bet if you have your soil tested, you'll find you already have calcium in your soil. The guys in your soil have to break it down in order for soil to take up and use.
Mulch. Especially if you have sandy soil that doesn't provide consistent moisture and has poor cation exchange capacity. All that calcium has to be dissolved in water in the soil for the plant to take it up, and it has to be dissolved in water to move through the plant.
My early tomatoes had endured temperatures down in the upper 30's while settling their first tomatoes, without any signs of blossom end rot. So, I can't see temperatures affecting calcium uptake unless there is already a deficiency.
Good common sense information. I am new to planting tomatoes and made the mistake of adding Epsom salt at the first sign of end rot. I wish I would have watched this video before planting.
Glad it was helpful!
I grind up egg shells to a fine powder. A handful of the powered egg shells and a handful of alfalfa pellet powder in each hole as I plant the tomatoes. These items ground to a powder should be ready for take up by the plants early in the growing season.
why dull the blades of the machine for a small amount of calcium, with all the waste of time? agricultural lime or even hydrated lime are more readily available and pretty cheap in large bags.
having adequate levels of sulfur or other acids in soil (ph under 7.0) is what makes calcium ions able to dissolve and move.
You can use blackboard chalk too. But reality is that it must be consumed by soil microbial life in order for it to be soluble to the plants. That takes from 12 to 36 months. GYPSUM is your friend if you grow tomatoes. Maintain a soil pH between 6.4 and 6.8 and a balanced fertilizer and a cup of gypsum and a cup of bone meal and your tomatoes will be awesome. BER will not be a big problem.
I started adding ground egg shells to my tomato soil years ago. Every year I add a bit more. The shells I added 4-5 years ago is probably mostly gone now, broken down to a form the plants can absorb.
So it's not bad advice per se, it just takes time to work.
@@antoniajuel9582 : takes lots of time and lots of eggs, if you're going to do the whole veggie patch, many years in advance. and then for bonemeal keep the bone scraps, grind them up, etc. Garden lime is cheap and doesnt take years of egg shell collecting etc. With all these organic hacks, before you know it, your whole life starts revolving around collecting waste products, that will be the magic bullet in soil fertility.
it's called not valuing your own time and effort. the money you save, ends up usually more money spent. each to their own though. now i just grow great veggies without wasting all of my life on it.
@@antoniajuel9582 as long as you add them consistently no problem they will do exactly what you expect.
The problem lies in people adding eggshells to their soil expecting that those eggshells will remedy blossom end rot. They will not. It takes time for bacteria to break that down so it is plant available.(in truth MOST soil contains adequate calcium, but gardeners allow their soil to get out of range. That is when your pH is out of a range of about 6.2 to 6.8. a little more towards the acidic side will slow down tomatoes because the plants will only tolerate a certain amount of acidity. On the other end of the spectrum if you allow your soil pH to get to 7.8 you are most definitely going to have issues with blossom end rot. At that pH calcium is not obtainable to the tomato plant it cannot lift calcium unless that calcium is dissolved. Out of range it won't dissolve. Too acidic and the acidity negates the calcium they act against each other calcium is an alkaline metal, much like reaction between vinegar and baking soda vinegar being the acid and baking soda the base.)
Cal-Mag, tomatoes love it! And compost makes everything better, great tips!
I used Tums. Seemed to work.
Lol ! You are a scientist, Lordy! I need to learn a lot to be successful. That is a lot of info to take in. but very helpful and much appreciated ! but I will study all of this and try it . the soils is my big problem. Thanks again!
Glad it was helpful!
All I ever uses is almond milk half that and half water. Works great.
Gypsum will provide calcium immediately and will not change the PH balance like bone meal does.
Thank you so much for the REAL fixes. Way to much science out there for all the bunk going round.
Here in North Alabama things went out of control early we stayed cool to May and then jumped to upper 90s near a hundred by first week of June and then remained there. It just isn't going to be a season for Tomatoes no matter what you do. Fortunately for me we get two Tomato growing seasons here. I'll plant my Fall Tomatoes late July which will be small plants when I plant them so blooms won't come out during the still hot temperatures of Summer but as more agreeable Fall weather starts to appear. Sometimes I still have Tomatoes on plants come Thanksgiving.
We love your videos , your channel and your seeds thanks so much for all your help we really appreciate you Hoss 👍
Great concise info here Sir. Thank you.
The absolute biggest issue I have that causes blossom end rot is soil pH. If your pH is out of range the plants cannot lift calcium.
👍
Calcium along with adequate water and the right soil Ph. Do not use lime.
I think you're right with the composting this year I composted heavily and I eliminated the blossom end rot
Same here. Compost and an addition of straw on top has kept me from getting BER, especially since I've done away with commercial fertilizers and pesticides.
@@gabec2494 yes i use cardboard or plastic for weeds and to hold moisture in the ground
Can't wait till my sweet potatoe slips come in. Danny and Wanda at deep south homestead recommended your plants.
I have been putting land plaster
I dry the eggshells in the oven then use a blender to grind them and tums to powder, sprinkle it then water.
Doing this every 2 weeks really kept ber in ck.
Are you sure if the compost and not all the rust that's coming out the bottom your bucket
We have super high calcium in our well water in SWFL and we still battle it. I always have to throw more in the hole to get us thru
Inconsistent moisture seems to be the cause for me, I get it when there's an odd rainstorm since we're dry most the summer. Once that rain comes it makes half my tomatoes go bad.
You could also use calcium carbonate (aragonite) or SOFT rock phosphate (phosphorus and calcium). Both of these are great to get the calcium needs.
Used egg shells in all my bucket tomatoes, but my tomatoes still had a few with blossom end rot.
my tomatoes have it bad this year.....I think that I over fertilized and maybe over watered...my theory is that all my garden is in beds, and the beds seem to evaporate water quicker.....I was using a strong nitrogen fertilizer for several weeks then to a more balanced fertilizer, once weekly....we have a watering system but since its been so hot and dry, I've hand watered almost every day...we went away for 4 days and surprisingly the garden seemed to do well without the extra watering....
Thanks for the great info.
I'm sorry I can't stop but his bucket has blossom end rot....lol
yes, of all the buckets and containers we sell, he had to grab this one for video.
😂😂😂 *tears 😂😂😂
😂😂😂
Too much moisture (Rain) causes BER also and I've tried everything under the sun and get it every year. It's also always warm here while my tomatoes are growing. I'm about to grow just cherry tomatoes until they breed a variety that doesnt get BER. Or pick all my tomatoes green😢
Thank you so much for this information. I always seem to have this problem with tomatoes.
What did you mean by bottom,middle and top crop?
The bottom tomatoes will appear and ripen first. Then those in middle of plant and last the top.
I use egg tums.
Thank you for all your information!!
I would assume, just like in the human body, magnesium is required to best utilize the available free calcium. In other words, you can ingest all the calcium you'd like, but w/o magnesium, you just pass the large majority of it right back out. I'd guess folks saying to use epsom salt understand that the free calcium is already available to the soil, but the plant lacks the water and magnesium to actually use it.
Thank you for the info Greg
So how did this crop work out.
Great.
~reaches through the screen to virtually scratch the pooch behind the ears~
I have a gypsum question.. what do you think about using left over drywall.. soaked and broken up of course, in the garden to counter act hard clay?
Yes, that will work.
@@gardeningwithhoss cool.. thank you so much.. there's a lot of smallish pieces that I didn't want to just toss.
Thank you for this !! What do i do about lots of ants in my garden ?
A sudden convergence of ants in the garden, or a line of ants moving up and down a tree, usually indicates the presence of aphids, mealybugs, or other sap-sucking insects that attack plants. Treat for the insects and ant problem will get better.
@@gardeningwithhoss Thank you . Do you have something on your website to treat them or what do you recommend?
hosstools.com/product/fire-ant-killer/
Evening y’all
Good evening
Can you use to much calcium ? Or can you go to town with it
yes, too much will damage the plants
I've found Italian pizza tomatoes (similar to bell peppers) aren't as susceptible to blossom end rot.
Greg I hope the Blossom End Rot is minor, hope the compost helps.
Will there be enough air flowing through the tomatoes to prevent blight?
yes
Will milk work to add calcium?
Sure, but may not be available immediately, add to the soil and not directly to the plant.
The one way to help your crop is to get a new bucket
There's always fried green tomatoes!
poor germination with your squash seeds
No amount of calcium in your soil is going to help your tomatoes if the plants can't take it up. If the plants dry out in between waterings you're going to get blossom end rot. This is why I keep my plants mulched. I hardly ever get blossom end rot because I apply a mulch early on. Too much nitrogen will also cause blossom end rot.
End rot can be prevented with calcium and Epsom salt
Put it at base of plant or in the hole before you plant?
Did you watch the video?
Epson salt won't help with blossom end rot
If you do it his way with his bucket you going to need a tetanus shot every time you eat something out of the Garden