How to sew a jacket - part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2017
- "Cloth Cutting"
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It is a Tailored jacket cutting by a cutter.
Cutting is the first and most important process part.
Let's be conscious of Grain line per part.
It is a ladies Tailored jacket with full lining.
Jackets are hard to sew compared to shirts and skirts anyway.
For example, in case of shoulder, there are sleeve head wadding and shoulder pads and it is completely different from the sleeve of the shirt.
But that is why it will be what a beautiful shape.
The feeling when wearing is also the best.
Design specification of the jacket is a waist pocket with the flap most commonly used.
Back vent, front dart and functioning sleeve buttons.
The chest pocket and the inner pocket are removed.
As I did not want to take as much time as possible at filming, it is as simple as possible, but still have the necessary parts.
As for bound welt pocket already uploaded, please refer it if you need.
• How to sew a welt pock...
Manual works (hand invisible stitch etc...) is packed.
The jacket is really a treasure trove of technique.
The main cloth is Flannel, and lining, sleek, interfacing are two kinds.
Sewing specification
Fabric : Flannel
Full lining
Flap waist pockets
2 darts (Front 2)
Back vent
Functioning sleeve buttons
** You can download the pattern in PDF, it is free. **
Please refer to it.
ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html
Paris collection, Tokyo collection etc... Sample garment factory Atelier Saison.
We have sewed at Shibuya-ku, Jingumae in Tokyo for more than 35 years.
This is a machine translation and may not be a perfect translation
#Sewing - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
One of the finest videos about the hand cutting process I've ever seen... Becoming fan of Japanese style of filming processes, whether it is cooking or clothing technology...so clear and detailed every time 👍👍
Thank you so much for your a lot of kind words😁😁
@@ateliersaison Thank you for your work 👍👍👍
Aser un terno
@@ateliersaison 👏👏👏👏👏👏
wow this is neatly done... im a patternmaker myself and i feel like im doing everyhting wrong, i put pins on my oattern through the fabric to secure them before cutting... this technique is the right way but it is so meticulous and hard kuddos to their sewing chief operator and pattern cutter
Огромное спасибо!!! Все очень познавательно!!! Теперь буду ждать ещё ,чего-нибудь новенькое
Руки мастера высшего пилотажа! Движения отточенные до автоматизма. Спасибо, что делитесь своим опытом и мастерством! 😍
Merci beaucoup pour la video
C’est très instructif de visualiser ces étapes de découpe du patron sur les différent tissus
Merci encore
Ficou ótimo seu trabalho! Parabéns!
É sério que um vídeo produzido com toda essa qualidade disponibiliza a modelagem gratuitamente? Simplesmente sensacional. Parabéns!
I am just cutting and stitching a coat and dress for my aunt, Your video is gona help me, i hope i can do it, thnx for the video 👍🏻 oh its my first time by the way 😊
How did it come out
Such a neat work .... you are amazing... Thank you
Вы молодцы спосибо вам за полезные видео, сделайте пожалуйста видео про мужских классических брюках
Gracias por el molde! ❤ me encantan sus videos sigan así!
Brigada amei esse passo a passo deu pra tirar muitas dúvidas e melhorar minha costura só inscrita nesse canal amo seu trabalho bjs
Seeing u flip and level the cloth is so satisfying. Skills 100%
Thank you so much!! 😁😁
Maravilhoso seu trabalho parabéns
I m so thankful for your tutorials it very helpful and thank you very very very much for the pattern it's very nicely done
Thank you so much for your sweet comment and also checking the pattern !! (^^
Thank you so much im from Algeria
Love all your tutorials! You made very helpful lessons! Thank you a lot! ;*
Thank you so much for your sweet comment and watching our video (^^
Call or whatApp me on +233553150996
Thank you for sharing your video it really helps a lot for me as a beginner making a blazer.
Thank you for watching and your sweet !! We are so glad to be able to serve you (^^
thanks it's perfect
please can you give us lesson for how to cut the pattern with measurement
Yes i need it toooooo😔😔😔
This is great! Thanks so much!
Thank you so much for watching and your comment !!
A strong hug from Brazil dear friend ! Thanks for this great lesson. Now you have a friend in Brazil ! See you later my teacher !!!
Thank you so much for your sweet !! We appreciate it. We keep trying to make useful lesson for the world !
Thanks for the videos...great lesson
Thank you very much for your kind comment !! We are so happy (^^
I kept watching the video, i figure it out. Thanks so much.
Thank you so much for watching our video and your kind (^^
waooo!!! Yo quiero hacer eso también, la verdad que es todo un arte!!
Muchas gracias por tu comentario !! muy feliz (^^
muchas gracias, excelente ayuda muy buenos videos.
Muchas gracias por tu amabilidad😁😁😁
great video
شكرا جزيلا لك
Very nice, specially the instrument like ceasor
You are the best!!
Beautiful I will follow you technicals .
Thanks
Thank you so much!! We are happy to hear that😁😁
Al fin, despues de tanto buscar, encuentro a un sastre que corta un saco, un solo saco, con molde. De esa manera optimisa bastante la tela, tanto en forros como en entretelas y refuerzos. Gracias. Saludos desde Lima Peru,
¡Muchas gracias por ver nuestro video!
Méthode professionnelle qui a fait ses preuves. Je suis fière de savoir l'utiliser. Merci ❤❤❤
excelentes seus vídeos.
vc usa algum material sobre a mesa para cortar com a tesoura circular?
obrigada
Sim, esta folha de plástico acrílico de cor verde é para tesoura circular. Esta nitidez de tesoura é incrível. Muito obrigado pelo seu comentário !!
GRACIAS POR ESTOS VIDEOS EXITOS.........
Muchas gracias (^^
Thank you so much for the videos, and also the translation. Your technique is flawless. What kind of interfacing do you use with flannel? I live in Tokyo, can I purchase it from Okadaya?
We used a medium thickness and not too hard interfacing.
This is called KIHU(基布) which means be woven.
Yes, you can purchase this kind of interfacing in Okadaya.
You live in Tokyo !! great (^^
We appreciate your sweet comment. Thank you for watching our video !!
Привет из Украины! Смотреть ваши видео - огромное удовольствие! Вы мастера своего дела! Лучших уроков по крою и шитью я еще не видела! Так все аккуратно, ни одного лишнего движения. Из какого материала сделан ваш стол ;) ? Вы заслуживаете сто тысяч похвал. Удачи и успехов!
Здравствуйте!! Этот зеленый стол изготовлен из акрилового пластика. Большое спасибо за ваш такой сладкий вид! Мы так счастливы (^^
Спасибо!
I enjoy these videos. I like those weights.
Thank you for watching our videos and your sweet comment !!
Thanks for the detailed video for Jacket. My biggest concern is the pattern making. :( I'll try to look for some of your videos in how to make the pattern.
We are a sewing pro, but not pattern making professional... sorry. We do not have how to make the pattern that we can tell you. Thank you very much for watching our video and your so sweet comment !!
They put the pattern for this jacket in a link in the description for free. You just have to scroll down until you find the English patterns. Otherwise, there are sites like burdastyle.com that offer printable patterns for very affordable prices.
Obrigada por nos ensinar!
Muito obrigado pelo seu comentário (^^
Amazing thanks for you
Thank you so much😁😁
WOW ….the begning is marvlas ..I shill see the part 2,3,4 ان شاء الله
Thank you so much for your kind comment !!(^^
Hello I know it’s one of your old video and I’m absolutely stunned watching and watching over again as I’m learning your techniques how to do but I’m also amazed by your industrial steam ironing system you laying interfacing pieces all at once, may I ask what is the brand called and where can I purchase as well please cause I wanna do the same to save my time of pressing 🙏😊
She uses the steam generator : NBC-1150 NAOMOTO (Japanese brand) in this video.
This one is old model now and we have no idea how you purchase in your country...
Please check NAOMOTO web site (English) below.
www.naomoto.com/english/apparel/steam_generator/nbc.html
Thank you so much !!
Atelier Saison thank you so much 😊 for your reply and I wish you millions and millions subscribers and I’m glad that I’m 1 of them cause you deserve that, your knowledge of you sharing are priceless and I’m glad that do you doing that 🤗😍👍
Hello! I’m trying to make the same jacket like that for a play that’ll start in six months, is it possible to create one by hand sewing the fabrics without the sewing machine?
Hello !! Essentially, Men's Jacket is often made by one by hand, not Women's one. This is very good, also very expensive. However, you have to practice so hard. We recommend using sewing machine. Thank you very much for your comment !!(^^
株式会社アトリエセゾン ah! I see!! Thank you so much for your reply it really helps, Ive been trying the sewing machine and already finished measuring myself, all I need to do is sketch the draft out on the lining. But thank you again ^^
It sounds so great !! We respect to you. We wish you all the best !! Thank you (^^
株式会社アトリエセゾン you guys are too kind thank you so much !!
Yes it is possible although your hand sewing will have to be very good
May I ask why some pieces are cut exact to the pattern piece, and some are cut around the pattern pieces with extra width? Thanks!
The fabric is easily shrunk by heat. That is why Some pieces that must be put interfacing into all of pattern are cut with extra (usually 1 cm). We cut without extra if some pieces are put interfacing into a part of pattern. Thank you😁
Thank you for sharing this video; I'm finding it very helpful! What material does your factory use on the cutting table top (green)?
We do not know the exact name in English. It is made of Acrylic plastic sheet. Thank you!
thank you so mach
I love you! Thank you!
Thank you very much for your kind !!(^^
This is amazing, very different on what we are studying. Now i wanna go to Japan and study there
congratulations for the video.
excellent cutter
is it possible to know where to buy it?
Thank you so much for your comment !! You can purchase this cutter with searching "Rotary cutter" (^^
I like the way you cut fabric with the patterns I would like to have your material please you make your own pattern
cortar la tela a pulso impresionante.
Muchas gracias por su amable comentario (^^
Vaya manera de cortar,
Hello? Wow I found a amazing video tutorial in your channel. Thanks master tailor to share your great savoir-faire to us!!
Obs: Whatis teh name of green cover did you put in your table to cut fabric smoothly?
Hello !! The green cover's name may be ACRYLIC PLASTIC SHEET in English.
Especially, it is very thick (6mm).
Thank you for watching and your sweet (^^
Olá!
Tem algum canal ensinando fazer essa modelagem ?gostaria muito de aprender o feminino obrigada!
Olá!! Temos apenas esse canal para mostrar como costurar. Obrigado!!
@@ateliersaison ensina então a fazer a modelagem sob medida então aqui👏👏👏
Felicidades tu trabajo es limpio, ordenado se ve la dedicacion y El amor a tu trabajo, gracias por compartir, (puedes mostrar como sostienes , dedal, tijeras?)
Tal vez algún día estaremos transmitiendo en vivo tijeras y dedales. ¡¡Gracias!!
What were you doing when you laid a scrap piece of fabric under the pattern and then poked through the pattern?
In the case of delicate fabrics, it will support the fabric without damaging it.
Parabens pelo belissimo trabalho. Gostaria de saber, qual o tipo de entretela adesiva utilizaram em todas as partes do blaser (algodao ou entretela de malha)?
Usamos fitas de interface e fita adesiva da marca "SANKEI". Esta é uma empresa japonesa.
www.sankeicoltd.co.jp/en/en_product/en_interlining.html
Thank you.
Trabalho magnífico!!! Tem algum canal que ensina a modelar com tanto capricho e dedicação?
Não conhecemos outros canais ... Obrigado !!
Fantastic 👏👏👏👏💃♥️♥️♥️thankyou
por favor enseñen como sacar el patron gracias
👏👏👏👏👏good work lm a beguiner and i need some help please more videos ✌
Thank you so much for your comment !! Yes, we keep making more videos even if our progress is slow😉😉
waow 😍 super very good job
Thank you for watching and your sweet (^^
Por que no coloca los moldes porfa para descargarlos
Hello! Thank you so much for videos, just finished all 7. I was wondering what size this jacket is? I saw the measurements on your website, but what dress size does this equal?
We made it as Medium size for Japanese. Thank you.
Me encanta la precisión de los japoneses
Muchas gracias por su clase. Estamos muy felices (^^
cách cắt rất nhanh, gọn và hiện đai. Xin vui lòng chỉ dẫn phương pháp cắt chi tiết áo vest (jacket) cơ bản; rất cảm ơn
Oh, cắt Craftsman rất vui mừng (^^
Đây là phương pháp cơ bản, ông nói.
Cảm ơn vì đã xem !!
How may yard of lining and faric to use
HOLA SOY DE PERU GRACIAS POR LOS VÍDEOS
Dady
This is such a beautiful video. I'm about halfway through my first ever jacket, I wish I had seen this cutting process before I cut all mine out. The tailors tacks are a great way to mark the holes that I didn't think of.
What is the name of the tool used to notch the sides of the pattern?
Thank you for such wonderful videos!
That tool is called "chisel". We think you can find similar products in a hardware store. Thank you!
I'm so in love with your work Atelier!! Thank you so much for your beautiful details and instructions. I just love it! I have learned so much with your videos.
By the way, what is the name of the sobg in your videos? You picked the perfect melody... 🥰🥰🥰👏👏
All of the background music is composed by our staff. Thank you for your kind words!!
hello, Good day,
I really appreciated how to do some techniques of garments and how you put love in each of your masterpieces. and being a fan of your channel, may you share your other knowledge on how to draft a pattern in a tailored jacket? hope to see your response with love. thank you!!
We do not share how to draft any patterns since we are not
a pattern maker. Thank you so much for your kindness😀😀
Thanks for posting this video. What is the brand of your rotary cutter? It is small but sharp.
Thank you for visiting us !! The name of this rotary cutter is "OLFA".
We use big size(45mm) and small size(28mm).
Please can you give me lessons how to cut the pattern with measurements please
le estoy haciendo un saco a mi hijo siguiendo sus instrucciones gracias por su generosidad saludos
Estamos encantados de ayudarte !! Muchas gracias por tu clase (^^
Yo estoy boy a hacer sacos y estoy viendo estos tutoriales para q me salgan bien grasias bendiciones
Suena genial !! Muchas gracias por tu comentario (^^
Please explain,,how to cut all stff
hi there, can i ask you where did you get those pattern/fabric weights?
You can download the pattern here. Thank you.
ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html
What size of that jacket do you sew? Thank You for the best tutorial in You Tube.
This jacket is for regular size of Japanese woman.
Click here for details.
ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html
Thank you for your kindness😁
What’s the name of the tool you’re using to mark your notches?
These are a chisel and awl. Thank you.
Hi. What kind of interfacing did you use in this video, please?
We use usual interfacing. Not too soft and not too hard.
Those are "SANKEI" brand. This is Japanese company.
www.sankeicoltd.co.jp/en/en_product/en_interlining.html
Thank you.
Ya sangat suka untuk belajar
Great video! Can you tell me the pattern?
You can DL the pattern which is used with this video below.
ateliersaison.jp/pg189.html
Thank you for watching and your comment !!
hi! Just watching this and I love how easy you make it look haha, I would like to know, what is the tool/process you used along the edge of the fabric at 0:50? It looks like a rotary cutter to me but I've never seen it used in this way. I assume it is to stop fraying? Could you please elaborate on this?
also, when you lay a scrap piece of fabric underneath and poke dart holes in, how does this make holes in the actual pattern piece? wouldnt it not pierce the fabric?
Hi ! Yes, this is a rotary cutter.
The edge of the lining fabric is easily distorted, so you can adjust the distortion by cutting in this way.
The reason for placing some lining fabric under the lining and perforating and marking is to prevent the lining from stringing.
@@ateliersaison by distortion, do you mean warping?
Ah I see, so the scrap fabric is underneath the lining and the pattern as a cushion so it goes through easier. どうもありがとうございます＾＾（少し日本語が半せます、w）
@@lukebarry9450 How can I say... sorry poor my English😅 Fabric thread is not straight at the edge of this lining, I mean the warp and weft of the fabric are not like a straight.
Yes! About the scrap fabric, it is like a cushion.
日本語が話せるなんてすごい！！😀
I want to learn
enjoyed your vlog can you tell me what stay tape you used thank you
About fusible stay tapes.
Fusible straight stay tape : Strong against stretching
Half bias fusible stay tape : A little soft compared to straight tape
Fusible straight stay tape with stitching : Fusing it on the part you don't want to stretch absolutely
Which to put and where to put depends on the fabric and design.
Please refer to the video of the jacket(from 14 min 19 sec) below.
th-cam.com/video/EhTbPkrh84A/w-d-xo.html
Thank you!
Now those are fabric weights!!
Thank you for the video. It is very informative. Is that a heat press you are using at 23:00 or a special ironing press? Thank you
This is a special press for attaching interfacing to fabric. Thank you!
Very nice!!!👍👍👍👍👍🥰
Im the like 1000 haha , congratulation beatiful Job, God bless you.
I just watched this for the second time. Two Questions: # 1 What do you have on your cutting table that lets you use the blade to cut through the fabric to make the notches? # 2 What kind of blade notcher are you using to do the cutting? Is it specific for sewing or can it be found in a hardware store? I think you may use it to cut through button holes to open them? I love your TH-cam channel.
We use "chisel" and "scratch awl" as a notcher. The chisel is sold for sewing in Japan. Yes, we use the chisel to cut through buttonholes to open. I think you can find similar products in a hardware store. The blade used to cut the fabric is a rotary cutter. Thank you!
@@ateliersaison Thank you. What type of material have you laid down on the top of the cutting table so the rotary cutter, scratch awl and chisel do not damage the table? I doubt if it's available to a home sewist.
@@sbaumgartner9848 The material of cutting table is acrylic plastic sheet. We think it depends on the country whether this is sold at home improvement store. In fact, it is not sold at general home improvement store even in Japan. Thank you!
Good morning, I'm from Brazil and I'm using Google translator. What tool did you use to cut the fabric?
Hello, we use Rotary cutter to cut the fabric. Thank you.
目打ちが勉強になりました。
Where did you get that rotary mat? It’s the perfect size
We bought the rotary mat from Japanese professional sewing shop. Thank you!
Where did you buy your cutting tool?
You can find with searching "Rotary cutter" in Amazon, etc. Thank you for your comment (^^
Hi why did you tear that piece off at the beginning? Thanks for uploading, watching to learn
This is because the vertical and horizontal lines of the fabric can be made clear by tearing it. Thank you😀
Thank you!!
I'm drooling over your pattern weights! May I know where can I buy those, please?
We bought those metal stone weights maybe 30 yeas ago. Unfortunately, we have no idea where you can buy these except for Japan. There are some shops which sell a kind of these stone weights in Japan. However, they do not accept web-order from other countries. We can not help you, sorry...
@@ateliersaison Thanks for replying. 😊
@@ateliersaison Thank you so much for the video. I'm studying clothing design and it's so HELPFUL. loving it.
@@hannahgavhure Thank you so much for your kind comment !!😁😁
@@hannahgavhure Thank you so much for your kind !! so happy😁😁
What is the purpose a piece of lining attached while you are pointing an eyeleteer like 5:10, for avoiding snag?!
役立つ動画をありがとうございます。
5:10あたりの工程で裏地に目打ちでマークする場面がありますが、裏地の切れ端を当て布にしてその上から刺されているのは破れやヒキツレ防止という意味でしょうか？
突き刺した穴に生地が引き込まれにくくするためのガードの役割ということでしょうか？
Yes, that is right!!
仰る通りです！裏地にもよりますがキュプラのような裏地の場合１枚だけですと目打ちを打ち込んだ際に布の糸引きを起こす可能性があります。共地で当て布することによりそれを防ぎます。
What are the measurements
Qual tecido usar para o forro??
O forro é Cupro.😀
gracias por subirlos estan fascinantes solo que me gustaria en español saludos y gracias desde la ciiudad de mexico
Muchas gracias por tu amable comentario !! Estamos muy felices (^^
Hola
Hola
Hola !!
hola