@@nickthegardener.1120 Agreed. Composting is like owning an aquarium: the bigger it is, the better it will self-regulate if you don't get around to it. That said, if all you have is a manure fork, don't compost so big that you end up needing a Bobcat to turn it or use it. Ask me how I know 😁
@@teebob21 I have 3 big compost bins, 1 is full ATM but I try and turn it every week as I'm constantly adding grass clippings this time of year. It's at least a tonne each time. It's at 140farenehit ATM. By the end of the year all 3 will be full.💪👌👍
A compost screw like the Tumbleweed Compost Mate is a super easy and quick way to turn a pile, especially if it's just a bin setup. You just screw it down into the pile and pull up, sometimes that's too hard if the bin is really full, so I go halfway down, pull up, and then do a second go on the same spot. I work my way around the bin and everything is well mixed in literally in minutes. I've had mine for over 25 years and it's one of my most used garden tools - and turning the contents REALLY makes a big difference. I've been binge watching these videos- SO THANK-YOU!! So much great info, no BS, just down to earth years of wonderful knowledge. New subscriber here!! Cheers from Sydney, Oz - from a University Of Guelph graduate!!
Wow! What brilliant information backed up by science! Thank you Robert. I’m so fortunate to have found your channel. You are saving me time, effort and money, whilst giving me confidence in doing what I love.
I have an adjustable size bin, probably found it on amazon, etc. it's a sheet of perforated plastic,with 4 clips that you can make into a different sized circular container, might be helpful for someone, I'll see if I can find it and post the name, don't think you tube like posting links
Great video, thank you. I'm stuck for space. so I use 10 litre tubs with lids, cut the food waste small, add in shredded plain brown cardboard, mix it and occasionally stir. I drink loose tea so use the tea leaves with the food waste and moisture content and smell can be regulated with the cardboard. Work off a broadly 50:50 ratio. Also add some ground up eggshells. Seems to work quite well, the current one is indoors so relatively warm. When full, start a new one. Can draw material from finished tubs until empty and start over in order. Use a little material in tubs and troughs and pots. Don't have a garden as such.
Me too, I'm stuck on a patio. I collected about 5 gallons of kitchen scraps in an extra 10 gallon cloth pot. I got a cool mushroom bloom last week. I was afraid to fill it for fear it would smell. I keep it at the entrance so that if it attracts animals they don't have to be all in my business. I'll probably have to do a diy tumbler with a lid, but hopefully not ugly.
If you're a man, you dont need to buy compost starter. Just go out to the pile and whiz on your big stack of leaves using your handy biological applicator wand. 😊
Save your urine in jugs and dilute it about 1 to 8 and its great fertilizer for plants. I use a 2 gallon watering can. Pour in a about 1/3 of a gallon then top off with water. Breaks down roughly to a 10/4/2.5 npk Sometimes I apply directly to the plants. Most of the nutrients we take in we expell. Its full of plant soluble nutrients. And lots of dead blood cells and such for the microbes.
I would enjoy hearing your ‘ take’ on composting with black soldier fly larva. My experience is they make compost almost overnight no matter what method you use .
My first time I did my compost but I unfortunately I didn’t add any brown and it stunk and I think it damaged my soil please advise me how to repair it or should I get new soil 😢😢😢😢
Thanks for yet another good video. Didn’t think I would make it through 48 minutes but was fully engaged until the end. For me: - By far the best small yard composter is the vertical unit with door on the bottom but mine came with a 3-4 inch diameter plastic auger on a T handle to aerate which worked surprisingly well. - By far the worst was a big rotating drum. Difficult to get stuff in and out and would tend to create hard, dense balls of material. - I now have tons of yard space and love my the in ground pit type (dry climate with cold winter) but so do toads and garden snakes which I value so now I just leave it for the critters, no longer turn and will likely abandon. - I detest the typical dimensional lumber raised beds and ripped out the 10 or 12 11ft x 3ft x 8” beds from prior owner stacking them out of the way. The stack was convenient to store organic material until I was ready to shred for the compost heap and accidentally found the stack made for really good modular compost bins. To turn I just de-stack section-by-section shoving material from upper half of prior stack into new stack. I’m going to rework them into 4x4 or 5x5’ modules and I think they’ll be pretty good.
Herrick Kimball has a good video about making modular lumber compost bins with a minimum of cutting required. You basically just make toothed boards that stack like a log cabin. If I didn't already have a 4 bin setup that I like, I'd do that myself.
Thanks for this guide, it will be handy for planning my future garden, which I don't have, but a large balcony/small roof top, so someone said bokashi was a good idea. Smelly (when you open the bucket), messy - I need to mix it with soil to make a soil factory. I don't have soil, I used peat and coco coir potting mix and took up good growing/storing/living space to have a box that still used almost a year to make soil. And no one mentioned the flies, uh. They mostly kept in the food factory, but still, thousands of them. The "soil" I've made - it got to wet, anaerobic, so I'm airing it now, but it is quite black and I don't see anything that resembles what I put in. Most of what I cut down last autumn, I had no room for in this system. I won't use this so-called soil in my pots and planters, no idea of ph or nutrients, and what troubles it might bring. I'm guerilla gardening some flowers near by, I'll put it over there. When I get a garden, I might do bokashi for kitchen scraps and diy bins for garden greens and browns. Not sure if rodents go for the bokashi, but I have a terrier already and will get a cat.
Regarding the keyhole garden, build the soil up around the center compost column so the the center level is about 12 inches higher than the perimeter. Once the seedlings are established, water the column as well as put compost material in it. The roots grow toward that center column. Mulch the garden to prevent evaporation. The mulch eventually decomposes to also feed the soil.
I don't need much finished compost. I use a midsize container and a portable drill with a long paint stirring attachment for mixing. It's faster and does a much better job.
I use Rubbermaid barrels with huge holes drilled on the bottom. I set them on soil, fill with leaves and food scraps .I don't mix. After 3 years I have a full barrel of compost, thanks to the worms and other bugs.
@@judyking6849 I doubt it heats up enough to kill pathogens or weed seeds. In the winter there are still bugs crawling around even in freezing temps but I do find germinated seeds in there in spring from the food scraps. I only put healthy looking leaves from the trees, perenials and veggie plants. I got the idea from a TH-cam channel called Robbie and Gary's gardening. I mostly do it to keep food waste out of regular garbage. I have not noticed any additional weeds when I use the compost. I forgot to mention I also add used potting soil, tea bags, coffee ground to the mix, and water if it gets too dry. I think because I don't mix it or do specific ratio of browns to greens it cannot heat up enough to kill anything but if you are more particular and mix it, I beleive its possible to get it to temps that will kill pathogens and seeds. Hope this helps.
@@judyking6849 no it doesn't heat up enough to kill weed seeds or pathogens but I'm careful to make sure to only put displease free yard debris in it. It stays warm because in below freezing weather I still see bugs in it. I find seedlings growing sometimes from the seeds of food scraps but I haven't noticed more weeds than usual when I use the compost. I also add coffee grounds, tea bags, and water in dry periods. I got the idea from a you tube channel called Robbie and Gary's gardening. Hope this helps.
12:30 why would you spend time on turning the pile at all? It has air on all sides! Just passive compost 6 months minimum works fine. I do however put every through a wood chipper first. Talking about saving time 🙈 Thank you for your vids, very educational.
Research has indicated that static piles drop to a oxygen level of less than 2% at a depth of less than six inches. Turning the pile reintroduces air, and mechanically separates and breaks down the input materials.
@@teebob21 that's not according to the theory of so called johnson su bioreactor. But I forget to mention to also leave a hole in the middle by sticking a temporary pipe in, to bring more air in.
@@ErwinvanHolten Johnson-Su is an anaerobic process. It works, but it's different from aerobic decomposition. The end product is a heavy wet mass, or a slurry.
When talking about anaerobic processes, did you mean to say that it releases methane? Methane is a potent greenhouse gas. I've never heard of nitrous oxide being produced from decomposition. Also nitrous oxide production by definition requires oxygen. Nitrous oxide, if there's enough water in the air will combine with the water to generate nitric acid. That's what lightning generates during thunderstorms and is how it provides nitrogen for the soil.
I find using the plastic large cone with the bottom door is easy to mix by simply taking the top off, remove the side and bottom sleeves and expose all the compost. Put the plastic parts back together next to the pile of compost. Mix and shovel back in. Don't forget to water. Works great!
The best composter is the ground. Go over to the corner of your yard & dig a hole. Add compost materials at your convenience. When NEAR full, cover the materials w dirt & dig yourself a new hole somewhere else. !
The standard black composting bins may be slow acting but I find (in a temperate climate location) they do support a good number of vermicomposting worms which added to the normal microbial action, does help to break down the materials, & they also excrete their juices into the composting material. Two for the price of one ?
Bokashi ferments or pickles the waste. It can handle meat and other "non compostables" If you want to try Bokashi, watch TH-cam videos on making your own Bokashi activator. To buy the commercial stuff is just not economic. Do you not have to compost the pickled results from the Bokashi? Might be expensive two step process that only saves some time. I never saw the advantages of it.
I started using a kitchen dryer\grinder device, before putting that waste into both my tumbler drum and my two chamber composters. Surprisingly, this has eliminated all the lovely red worms - but replaced them 10000s!! of disgusting black fly larvae that POWER CHEW through everything in no time. For the first time, I have a steady stream of fully cooked, rich, loamy compost for my veggie garden. I'd love to hear if anyone else has stumbled on this and if there are variations. ✌️😎
I use to compost in bins. But now I just throw scraps in the garden and cover with a little dirt. It’s hot and humid where I live so decomposes fast. My plants thank me for it especially my banana plants they go throw compost fast
Very thorough. I wonder if it would be beneficial to neutralize wood ash. The wood ash in potassium oxide can be neutralized with muriatic acid to give potassium chloride which is a fertilizer
Wood ash does contain many useful compounds. However, I wouldn't recommend adding that much chloride to your soil. If you're willing to mess with strong acids, nitric acid or sulfuric acid would produce a more soil friendly homemade chemical fertilizer. Alternatively, you could use vinegar, and make potassium acetate.
@@MichaelGawesebmainone Vinegar is acetic acid. Mix with a base to make acetates. If you dissolve eggshells in vinegar, you make a calcium acetate solution. If you neutralize wood ash with vinegar, you make a solution that is mostly potassium acetate.
You just can not make compost in 24 hours. Just because you put in some "magic powder/potion". You only get dried, powdered food. Period. If that is what you want, go ahead. But most in-house systems will give comparable results.
I actually have had one of those plastic kitchen scrap composter get so hot that it self-ignited. The plastic in the top melted and started burning with 20-30 cm flames. We had a stick with a foldable propeller at the end we used to turn the pile every day, every time we dumped new kitchen scraps into it. Today the municipality collects kitchen waste separately from other waste, puts it in giant composting silos, and uses the waste methane gas to power the city buses and sells the end composted materials dirt cheap. From the municipality, you can buy compost in bulk per cubic meter cheaper than you can buy a 40 litre bag from the local garden center.
@@xyzxyzxyzxyzxyzxyz waste collection is less then $100 a year. I keep most of my kitchen waste and compost it myself. Landfill mining is a thing now for the methane. Such as old new york city landfills with decades and decades of material are drilled for the methane and have enough to provide for decades into the future as everything breaks down. Once a landfill gets so deep they have to install pipes to vent methane to the surface.
I removed an above-ground swimming pool and I am filling in the large depression with wood chips since they are free. I was wondering if mixing in nitrogen fertilizer would help them compost after I finish with a top layer of soil. I don't have enough grass clippings to use.
Fresh grass is 90% water. Compost microbes love water....they don't walk to work: they swim. A 1:1 ratio by volume of leaves and fresh grass clippings, and a pile at least 1 cubic meter in size will generate a lovely hot compost pile.
@@teebob21 the size is a slow build and I premix my greens and browns prior to assembly to save me the first turn Anyone else want to chime in on the correct ratio of grass and leafs?
There are too many variables to give you a simple answer. My advice when using grass clipping is to add them very conservatively over time to a large volume of leaves. (Starting with 5 big bags of leaves is OK, but 25 is much better.) Calculate your C/N ration the best you can and add 1/3 of the grass cuttings on the first mix, making sure to sprinkle them in very evenly to avoid clumping. Wait a few days and mix in the next 1/3. Then wait a few more days to assess. If it begins to stink, add more leaves immediately! If not, continue to add a small amount of cuttings on each turn until it begins to heat up. I hope this helps and good luck!
It's fine. They'll breakdown eventually. However, you might not want to put big chunks of wood into your garden....or wait the 3 years for them to decompose. That's why most people recommend screening them out and re-composting them.
My upright cone composter ends up full of soldier fly larvae, which quickly reduce my kitchen scraps. I end up with what looks like finished compost, or a soldier fly equivalent to worm casting… but not sure.
I have two of the black common composting bins but I do mix it. There is a corkscrew type tool I picked up which makes mixing very easy. Just drill in and pull upward. I agree that airflow is a problem and I drilled a ton of holes into the bin as a result. EDIT: If you see a skid with HT stamped on it, it means Heat Treated. So it doesn't contain any chemicals. I built my beds out of that material. EDIT2: You didn't talk about pee!!
What about those electric compost machines? They can make compost out of food waste in a few hours. But I don't want to buy one because I'm not sure garden clippings can go in there. Can you do a review of those?
I just throw my kitchen scraps Except meat, into the garden and I mix it in in the spring. than let nature take care of it. Has worked well for many years.
My indoor aerobic digester can handle meat just fine. I pre-process the meat by dehydrating and grinding it to quickly reduce the volume first. My fridge recently died, so I've been processing a bunch of rotting meat this way. Yes, gross, but the final output can be fed to compost worms with much less odor and I don't worry about vermin because it's already decomposed so much by the time the worms get to it.
The best compost bin is no bin, just pile it on the ground at least 3' high. Worms can get into it on the cooler outside, nothing is in the way of turning it, nothing to maintain or fix, and the price is right 👍
If you compost in contact with soil there will be worms in the pile. Althou comoost worms and soil worms are usually different. Worms of different stages of compost are different... adding worms wont harm, but its not necessary.
You can definitely improve the quality of finished compost by adding worms and giving them time to do their magic. You need to pay close attention to temperature, moisture and light. This is the way I do it: To one or more yards of finished compost, I thoroughly mix in 10% coffee grounds. A fruit or veggie slurry could also be used. (The extra food insures the worms reproduce quickly. ) I build the pile directly on native soil. I pull a gallon of red wigglers from my worm bin and distribute them near the center of the pile. I sprinkle with water as I build, keeping moisture the same as required for hot composting. (A fine point, but I treat my municipal water to remove chloramine.) If doing this in spring or summer, I locate the pile in a shady spot. Worms do not like like high temps! I cover the pile with leaves at least one foot thick to protect from sun and help regulate moisture/temperature. If doing this in the fall, I locate the pile in a sunny spot and use additional leaves to cover, then tarp it when temps drop below 50 F. I typically let it age for six to twelve months, but five months is enough to realize an improvement.
Thank you so much for knowing about the Biostack composter! It is THE BEST for typical sized yards and was so great that I believe California gave them to homeowners. I traced the patent ownership years ago and believe Bayer has it but there are no plans to produce it 😢. Each Biostack has 4 sections that stack on top of each other. For fast composting, all you do is take the lid off, set aside, remove the top stack rim and lay it beside the stack. Then you fork over the compost into rim beside it. Repeat with the remaining rims. At the end, you will have the Biostack right next to where it was, all turned with room to add more materials into through the top rim & replace the cover. So easy, space efficient! I am lucky to still have it. After using it for over 30 years, I still check out newer composters and can see how flawed they are. It is shameful whatever company that is sitting on the patent (if the patent hasn’t expired) and is not manufacturing the Biostack. I imagine they would have to invest in having new molds cast and start up production costs. Likely they would be much more expensive than the currently available ones and might not sell well. However, I also suspect many of the current ones are quickly abandoned and sent to the forever plastic graveyards having served no significant purpose.
I dont want my lawn to keep growing and having to keep spending gas money to mow it unless I use it to make compost. No other use for grass to be growing unless you feed it to animals.
Then kill the lawn or grow a garden instead. You can spray diesel on a lawn to curb it. The ground can break diesel down its not horrible for the environment. Works for 2 or 3 months at a time. Lots of asphalt companies use it to kill weeds.
@@brianfitch5469 I do have a Garden and I have cows and chickens. I feed my cows the grass once they get big enough. I was just saying not everyone likes having green grass like this guy kind of suggested.
@@vansicklejerry I got ya. I cant lie though. If I had cows. Id be collecting the mushrooms that sprout after it rains. Ive had to settle for growing san pedro cactuses in my back yard. I have 20 acres but it forested.
The fastest compost to make is grass clippings and saw dust. Use a compost thermometer and only turn it when it cools off (could be 1-2 times a month, NOT weekly!). Easy to turn since the materials are so fine. You can get several finished batches of compost over the grass cutting season. It is worth finding a local wood working shop that will gladly give you huge bags of sawdust for free.
You can have quick compost with lots of labor, or slow compost with a minimum of labor. Good video.
Bigger is better too.👌👍
@@nickthegardener.1120 Agreed. Composting is like owning an aquarium: the bigger it is, the better it will self-regulate if you don't get around to it. That said, if all you have is a manure fork, don't compost so big that you end up needing a Bobcat to turn it or use it. Ask me how I know 😁
@@teebob21 I have 3 big compost bins, 1 is full ATM but I try and turn it every week as I'm constantly adding grass clippings this time of year. It's at least a tonne each time. It's at 140farenehit ATM. By the end of the year all 3 will be full.💪👌👍
@@nickthegardener.1120 Attaboy. I just get too busy in early summer to turn the piles, just trying to keep up with weeding and mowing.
A compost screw like the Tumbleweed Compost Mate is a super easy and quick way to turn a pile, especially if it's just a bin setup. You just screw it down into the pile and pull up, sometimes that's too hard if the bin is really full, so I go halfway down, pull up, and then do a second go on the same spot. I work my way around the bin and everything is well mixed in literally in minutes. I've had mine for over 25 years and it's one of my most used garden tools - and turning the contents REALLY makes a big difference. I've been binge watching these videos- SO THANK-YOU!! So much great info, no BS, just down to earth years of wonderful knowledge. New subscriber here!! Cheers from Sydney, Oz - from a University Of Guelph graduate!!
That was easy, wish all my jobs went that way, it's called Geobin composting system
Wow! What brilliant information backed up by science! Thank you Robert. I’m so fortunate to have found your channel. You are saving me time, effort and money, whilst giving me confidence in doing what I love.
I have an adjustable size bin, probably found it on amazon, etc. it's a sheet of perforated plastic,with 4 clips that you can make into a different sized circular container, might be helpful for someone, I'll see if I can find it and post the name, don't think you tube like posting links
Geobin ❤
19:00 I ended up with one of these that was on the country fair episode of Welcome to Flatch (I was a set dresser). Thanks for the information.
Great video, thank you.
I'm stuck for space. so I use 10 litre tubs with lids, cut the food waste small, add in shredded plain brown cardboard, mix it and occasionally stir. I drink loose tea so use the tea leaves with the food waste and moisture content and smell can be regulated with the cardboard. Work off a broadly 50:50 ratio. Also add some ground up eggshells.
Seems to work quite well, the current one is indoors so relatively warm. When full, start a new one. Can draw material from finished tubs until empty and start over in order. Use a little material in tubs and troughs and pots. Don't have a garden as such.
Grass clippings are some the best materials to add to the compost bin as long as you add it in layers and not a big layer. 👍👌
I wanted this video.. right time!
Right!
Me too, I'm stuck on a patio. I collected about 5 gallons of kitchen scraps in an extra 10 gallon cloth pot. I got a cool mushroom bloom last week. I was afraid to fill it for fear it would smell. I keep it at the entrance so that if it attracts animals they don't have to be all in my business. I'll probably have to do a diy tumbler with a lid, but hopefully not ugly.
Another method, similar to chop and drop, put the food scraps underneath the mulch. That's what Ruth Stout did.
If you're a man, you dont need to buy compost starter. Just go out to the pile and whiz on your big stack of leaves using your handy biological applicator wand. 😊
Save your urine in jugs and dilute it about 1 to 8 and its great fertilizer for plants. I use a 2 gallon watering can. Pour in a about 1/3 of a gallon then top off with water.
Breaks down roughly to a 10/4/2.5 npk
Sometimes I apply directly to the plants. Most of the nutrients we take in we expell. Its full of plant soluble nutrients. And lots of dead blood cells and such for the microbes.
The penis
I would enjoy hearing your ‘ take’ on composting with black soldier fly larva. My experience is they make compost almost overnight no matter what method you use .
What's it taste like?
Your video are soooo helpful thank u soooo much 👏👏👏
My first time
I did my compost but I unfortunately I didn’t add any brown and it stunk and I think it damaged my soil please advise me how to repair it or should I get new soil 😢😢😢😢
After watching ur video I’ve learned a lot but please tell me how to fix my soil
🥲🥲
Thanks for yet another good video. Didn’t think I would make it through 48 minutes but was fully engaged until the end.
For me:
- By far the best small yard composter is the vertical unit with door on the bottom but mine came with a 3-4 inch diameter plastic auger on a T handle to aerate which worked surprisingly well.
- By far the worst was a big rotating drum. Difficult to get stuff in and out and would tend to create hard, dense balls of material.
- I now have tons of yard space and love my the in ground pit type (dry climate with cold winter) but so do toads and garden snakes which I value so now I just leave it for the critters, no longer turn and will likely abandon.
- I detest the typical dimensional lumber raised beds and ripped out the 10 or 12 11ft x 3ft x 8” beds from prior owner stacking them out of the way. The stack was convenient to store organic material until I was ready to shred for the compost heap and accidentally found the stack made for really good modular compost bins. To turn I just de-stack section-by-section shoving material from upper half of prior stack into new stack. I’m going to rework them into 4x4 or 5x5’ modules and I think they’ll be pretty good.
Herrick Kimball has a good video about making modular lumber compost bins with a minimum of cutting required. You basically just make toothed boards that stack like a log cabin. If I didn't already have a 4 bin setup that I like, I'd do that myself.
I am using rain water barrels. Cut holes in the bottom and sides. This, instead of commercial compost barrels that just cost 4-5 time more.
Thanks for this guide, it will be handy for planning my future garden, which I don't have, but a large balcony/small roof top, so someone said bokashi was a good idea. Smelly (when you open the bucket), messy - I need to mix it with soil to make a soil factory. I don't have soil, I used peat and coco coir potting mix and took up good growing/storing/living space to have a box that still used almost a year to make soil. And no one mentioned the flies, uh. They mostly kept in the food factory, but still, thousands of them. The "soil" I've made - it got to wet, anaerobic, so I'm airing it now, but it is quite black and I don't see anything that resembles what I put in. Most of what I cut down last autumn, I had no room for in this system. I won't use this so-called soil in my pots and planters, no idea of ph or nutrients, and what troubles it might bring. I'm guerilla gardening some flowers near by, I'll put it over there. When I get a garden, I might do bokashi for kitchen scraps and diy bins for garden greens and browns. Not sure if rodents go for the bokashi, but I have a terrier already and will get a cat.
I ALSO HAVE A TERRIER AKA WESTI-POO HE IS 4YEARS OLD AND HAS STARTED CATCHING CHIPMUNK 🐿️ AND HE BRINGS THEM STRAIGHT TO ME ! 😳 😧😅
@@cherylwin9364 Uh, maybe not the most welcomed gift. 😅
Regarding the keyhole garden, build the soil up around the center compost column so the the center level is about 12 inches higher than the perimeter. Once the seedlings are established, water the column as well as put compost material in it. The roots grow toward that center column. Mulch the garden to prevent evaporation. The mulch eventually decomposes to also feed the soil.
I don't need much finished compost. I use a midsize container and a portable drill with a long paint stirring attachment for mixing. It's faster and does a much better job.
Great stuff! Thanks again!
I use Rubbermaid barrels with huge holes drilled on the bottom. I set them on soil, fill with leaves and food scraps .I don't mix. After 3 years I have a full barrel of compost, thanks to the worms and other bugs.
Does it heat up enough to take care of the weed seed and pathogens? Sincerely asking - not trying yo point out that you’re wrong.
@@judyking6849 I doubt it heats up enough to kill pathogens or weed seeds. In the winter there are still bugs crawling around even in freezing temps but I do find germinated seeds in there in spring from the food scraps. I only put healthy looking leaves from the trees, perenials and veggie plants. I got the idea from a TH-cam channel called Robbie and Gary's gardening. I mostly do it to keep food waste out of regular garbage. I have not noticed any additional weeds when I use the compost. I forgot to mention I also add used potting soil, tea bags, coffee ground to the mix, and water if it gets too dry. I think because I don't mix it or do specific ratio of browns to greens it cannot heat up enough to kill anything but if you are more particular and mix it, I beleive its possible to get it to temps that will kill pathogens and seeds. Hope this helps.
@@judyking6849if you wait three years, most of the weed seeds will try to germinate and then die when they don't have light.
@@judyking6849 no it doesn't heat up enough to kill weed seeds or pathogens but I'm careful to make sure to only put displease free yard debris in it. It stays warm because in below freezing weather I still see bugs in it. I find seedlings growing sometimes from the seeds of food scraps but I haven't noticed more weeds than usual when I use the compost. I also add coffee grounds, tea bags, and water in dry periods. I got the idea from a you tube channel called Robbie and Gary's gardening. Hope this helps.
12:30 why would you spend time on turning the pile at all? It has air on all sides! Just passive compost 6 months minimum works fine. I do however put every through a wood chipper first. Talking about saving time 🙈
Thank you for your vids, very educational.
Research has indicated that static piles drop to a oxygen level of less than 2% at a depth of less than six inches. Turning the pile reintroduces air, and mechanically separates and breaks down the input materials.
@@teebob21 that's not according to the theory of so called johnson su bioreactor. But I forget to mention to also leave a hole in the middle by sticking a temporary pipe in, to bring more air in.
6 inches? that's 15cm only. Hm, that's many pipes 😅 - seriously, anything to reduce labour
@@ErwinvanHolten Johnson-Su is an anaerobic process. It works, but it's different from aerobic decomposition. The end product is a heavy wet mass, or a slurry.
@@ErwinvanHolten If the money spent on aeration piping is worth the time you might save, go for it.
When talking about anaerobic processes, did you mean to say that it releases methane? Methane is a potent greenhouse gas. I've never heard of nitrous oxide being produced from decomposition. Also nitrous oxide production by definition requires oxygen. Nitrous oxide, if there's enough water in the air will combine with the water to generate nitric acid. That's what lightning generates during thunderstorms and is how it provides nitrogen for the soil.
I find using the plastic large cone with the bottom door is easy to mix by simply taking the top off, remove the side and bottom sleeves and expose all the compost. Put the plastic parts back together next to the pile of compost. Mix and shovel back in. Don't forget to water. Works great!
The best composter is the ground. Go over to the corner of your yard & dig a hole. Add compost materials at your convenience. When NEAR full, cover the materials w dirt & dig yourself a new hole somewhere else.
!
The standard black composting bins may be slow acting but I find (in a temperate climate location) they do support a good number of vermicomposting worms which added to the normal microbial action, does help to break down the materials, & they also excrete their juices into the composting material. Two for the price of one ?
Thank you for all the information. What is your opinion on fermenting compost material like one would do with Bokashi method. Is it worth it?
Bokashi ferments or pickles the waste. It can handle meat and other "non compostables" If you want to try Bokashi, watch TH-cam videos on making your own Bokashi activator. To buy the commercial stuff is just not economic. Do you not have to compost the pickled results from the Bokashi? Might be expensive two step process that only saves some time. I never saw the advantages of it.
I started using a kitchen dryer\grinder device, before putting that waste into both my tumbler drum and my two chamber composters. Surprisingly, this has eliminated all the lovely red worms - but replaced them 10000s!! of disgusting black fly larvae that POWER CHEW through everything in no time. For the first time, I have a steady stream of fully cooked, rich, loamy compost for my veggie garden. I'd love to hear if anyone else has stumbled on this and if there are variations. ✌️😎
I use to compost in bins. But now I just throw scraps in the garden and cover with a little dirt. It’s hot and humid where I live so decomposes fast. My plants thank me for it especially my banana plants they go throw compost fast
Very thorough. I wonder if it would be beneficial to neutralize wood ash. The wood ash in potassium oxide can be neutralized with muriatic acid to give potassium chloride which is a fertilizer
Wood ash does contain many useful compounds. However, I wouldn't recommend adding that much chloride to your soil. If you're willing to mess with strong acids, nitric acid or sulfuric acid would produce a more soil friendly homemade chemical fertilizer. Alternatively, you could use vinegar, and make potassium acetate.
@@teebob21 how do you make potassium acetate with vinegar, any links or explanation
@@MichaelGawesebmainone Vinegar is acetic acid. Mix with a base to make acetates. If you dissolve eggshells in vinegar, you make a calcium acetate solution. If you neutralize wood ash with vinegar, you make a solution that is mostly potassium acetate.
Citric acid is another relatively safe acid both for plants and humans. It would make potassium citrate when combined with wood ash.
I have been using 5 gallon felt grow pots to compost in as i have no room for anything bigger.
CAN YOU PLEASE REVIEW THE REENCLE HOME COMPOSTER ?
You just can not make compost in 24 hours. Just because you put in some "magic powder/potion". You only get dried, powdered food. Period. If that is what you want, go ahead. But most in-house systems will give comparable results.
I'm curios about a johnson su style compost bin, should have more aeration and can be passive
I actually have had one of those plastic kitchen scrap composter get so hot that it self-ignited. The plastic in the top melted and started burning with 20-30 cm flames.
We had a stick with a foldable propeller at the end we used to turn the pile every day, every time we dumped new kitchen scraps into it.
Today the municipality collects kitchen waste separately from other waste, puts it in giant composting silos, and uses the waste methane gas to power the city buses and sells the end composted materials dirt cheap. From the municipality, you can buy compost in bulk per cubic meter cheaper than you can buy a 40 litre bag from the local garden center.
So the city gets free gas and still charges you for your own compost back?
@@brianfitch5469more like the city makes the waste collection low cost for its residents instead of just relying on fees and taxes
@@xyzxyzxyzxyzxyzxyz waste collection is less then $100 a year. I keep most of my kitchen waste and compost it myself.
Landfill mining is a thing now for the methane. Such as old new york city landfills with decades and decades of material are drilled for the methane and have enough to provide for decades into the future as everything breaks down. Once a landfill gets so deep they have to install pipes to vent methane to the surface.
I removed an above-ground swimming pool and I am filling in the large depression with wood chips since they are free. I was wondering if mixing in nitrogen fertilizer would help them compost after I finish with a top layer of soil. I don't have enough grass clippings to use.
If I am using primary shedded leafs and grass cuttings by volume what is faster 1/1 or two green / one brown, two brown / one green?
Fresh grass is 90% water. Compost microbes love water....they don't walk to work: they swim. A 1:1 ratio by volume of leaves and fresh grass clippings, and a pile at least 1 cubic meter in size will generate a lovely hot compost pile.
@@teebob21 the size is a slow build and I premix my greens and browns prior to assembly to save me the first turn
Anyone else want to chime in on the correct ratio of grass and leafs?
There are too many variables to give you a simple answer. My advice when using grass clipping is to add them very conservatively over time to a large volume of leaves. (Starting with 5 big bags of leaves is OK, but 25 is much better.) Calculate your C/N ration the best you can and add 1/3 of the grass cuttings on the first mix, making sure to sprinkle them in very evenly to avoid clumping. Wait a few days and mix in the next 1/3. Then wait a few more days to assess. If it begins to stink, add more leaves immediately! If not, continue to add a small amount of cuttings on each turn until it begins to heat up. I hope this helps and good luck!
Is putting woodchips in my compost fine? They will decay slowly. Some people told me to screen the wood chips, but is it really necessary?
It's fine. They'll breakdown eventually. However, you might not want to put big chunks of wood into your garden....or wait the 3 years for them to decompose. That's why most people recommend screening them out and re-composting them.
I w3ould not add them - they take too long to decompose. Just use them as a mulch on the garden.
My upright cone composter ends up full of soldier fly larvae, which quickly reduce my kitchen scraps. I end up with what looks like finished compost, or a soldier fly equivalent to worm casting… but not sure.
I have two of the black common composting bins but I do mix it. There is a corkscrew type tool I picked up which makes mixing very easy. Just drill in and pull upward. I agree that airflow is a problem and I drilled a ton of holes into the bin as a result.
EDIT: If you see a skid with HT stamped on it, it means Heat Treated. So it doesn't contain any chemicals. I built my beds out of that material.
EDIT2: You didn't talk about pee!!
What about those electric compost machines? They can make compost out of food waste in a few hours. But I don't want to buy one because I'm not sure garden clippings can go in there. Can you do a review of those?
I just throw my kitchen scraps Except meat, into the garden and I mix it in in the spring. than let nature take care of it. Has worked well for many years.
My indoor aerobic digester can handle meat just fine. I pre-process the meat by dehydrating and grinding it to quickly reduce the volume first. My fridge recently died, so I've been processing a bunch of rotting meat this way. Yes, gross, but the final output can be fed to compost worms with much less odor and I don't worry about vermin because it's already decomposed so much by the time the worms get to it.
The best compost bin is no bin, just pile it on the ground at least 3' high.
Worms can get into it on the cooler outside, nothing is in the way of turning it, nothing to maintain or fix, and the price is right 👍
No, that’s a great way to attract vermin.
How about adding worms to your compost?
If you compost in contact with soil there will be worms in the pile. Althou comoost worms and soil worms are usually different. Worms of different stages of compost are different... adding worms wont harm, but its not necessary.
You can definitely improve the quality of finished compost by adding worms and giving them time to do their magic. You need to pay close attention to temperature, moisture and light. This is the way I do it: To one or more yards of finished compost, I thoroughly mix in 10% coffee grounds. A fruit or veggie slurry could also be used. (The extra food insures the worms reproduce quickly. ) I build the pile directly on native soil. I pull a gallon of red wigglers from my worm bin and distribute them near the center of the pile. I sprinkle with water as I build, keeping moisture the same as required for hot composting. (A fine point, but I treat my municipal water to remove chloramine.) If doing this in spring or summer, I locate the pile in a shady spot. Worms do not like like high temps! I cover the pile with leaves at least one foot thick to protect from sun and help regulate moisture/temperature. If doing this in the fall, I locate the pile in a sunny spot and use additional leaves to cover, then tarp it when temps drop below 50 F. I typically let it age for six to twelve months, but five months is enough to realize an improvement.
The best was the _Biostack_ and unfortunately, discontinued for years and no copies of it from other companies.
I wanted one or more so bad!
Is that the one that they affectionately call a "Dalek" in the UK?
Thank you so much for knowing about the Biostack composter! It is THE BEST for typical sized yards and was so great that I believe California gave them to homeowners. I traced the patent ownership years ago and believe Bayer has it but there are no plans to produce it 😢. Each Biostack has 4 sections that stack on top of each other. For fast composting, all you do is take the lid off, set aside, remove the top stack rim and lay it beside the stack. Then you fork over the compost into rim beside it. Repeat with the remaining rims. At the end, you will have the Biostack right next to where it was, all turned with room to add more materials into through the top rim & replace the cover. So easy, space efficient! I am lucky to still have it. After using it for over 30 years, I still check out newer composters and can see how flawed they are. It is shameful whatever company that is sitting on the patent (if the patent hasn’t expired) and is not manufacturing the Biostack. I imagine they would have to invest in having new molds cast and start up production costs. Likely they would be much more expensive than the currently available ones and might not sell well. However, I also suspect many of the current ones are quickly abandoned and sent to the forever plastic graveyards having served no significant purpose.
@@teebob21No it is not a Dalek.
How about covering the bin ? That the birds cannot eat the worms
I dont want my lawn to keep growing and having to keep spending gas money to mow it unless I use it to make compost. No other use for grass to be growing unless you feed it to animals.
Then kill the lawn or grow a garden instead. You can spray diesel on a lawn to curb it. The ground can break diesel down its not horrible for the environment. Works for 2 or 3 months at a time. Lots of asphalt companies use it to kill weeds.
@@brianfitch5469 I do have a Garden and I have cows and chickens. I feed my cows the grass once they get big enough. I was just saying not everyone likes having green grass like this guy kind of suggested.
@@vansicklejerry I got ya. I cant lie though. If I had cows. Id be collecting the mushrooms that sprout after it rains.
Ive had to settle for growing san pedro cactuses in my back yard. I have 20 acres but it forested.
The fastest compost to make is grass clippings and saw dust. Use a compost thermometer and only turn it when it cools off (could be 1-2 times a month, NOT weekly!). Easy to turn since the materials are so fine. You can get several finished batches of compost over the grass cutting season. It is worth finding a local wood working shop that will gladly give you huge bags of sawdust for free.
Why bother composting yourself if you can just harvest composted leaf litter from your local forest or woods?
Not an option when in some places that's illegal or you have pine woods.