my wife's father was a machinist for the Rock Island Arsenal here in town. he has built many things which are of superior quality as are yours...were he alive today, he was been impressed with your work :) cheers, Chuck
I have seen live steam models with Zerk fittings in the axles. The Zerk fittings can be had in different sizes and they are threaded with tapered threads. They are a shaped check valve for grease but they should work with oil. With one installed in an axle end the axle center will be protected from the elements so removal will have a good center hole.
I short demonstration of the cross hole centering jug to alighn your vice or bar stock would be appreciated. Many I guess would not be familiar with it !
Hi Crispin, Some nice between centres work, but a few for maximum precision there are a couple of points that are frequently missed out The live centre in the headstock should be an unhardened one and be trued up in situ before commencing the job. Many people are completely unaware of the existence of soft centres and they're not easy to find these days, but you can buy Morse taper stub end arbors or recycle a worn out taper shank twist drill and machine your own 60 degree taper on the soft end. You'll see Keith Fenner using a bit of mild steel bar stock in the three or four jaw chuck as a centre. If you have a big lathe, you'd rather not remove a heavy chuck! A dead centre in the tailstock is more accurate than a running centre. Unless the running centre has had its taper ground with the centre revolving assembled in its (well preloaded) bearings, then there will be runout. My cylindrical grinder can revolve the work around two dead centres for maximum accuracy. P.S. You might want to contact Don Cossitt. Even at 144 resolution, your videos look nearly as crisp as his. He could do with some advice on rendering, encoding and file sizes.
Paul Compton Hi Thanks for the feed back, I have used the soft centres your talking about at Rolls Royce. Strangely I have never thought to sort something out for home! I will say though that the amount of run out with a good centre in my spindle is minuscule but yes I agree with the principle. I seem to have selected the wrong option for rendering my self this time! I'm not quite sure that happened.
Why lubricate through the axle ? All things considered, I'd go for a grease nipple on the static bearings - at the top and towards the back - so that grease would be moved forward and over the top - which is the bit that's bearing the weight of the loco.
G'day Crispin very nice work and a good idea. What type of steel did you use for the axels? Thank you once again learned some more. Regards Tassie John
Dear Mr crispin, I just heard about your other hobby. Do you make bows if so I could perhaps let you have some nice seasoned ash for a English longbow.Yew of course would be the best but its rarer than gold. I have made several longbows as its one of my hobbies alas serious ill health prevent practise and building. It use to take me up to 2 week to craft a full size bow(84inches)with a chosen draw length and weight 70ib . Target and distance Archery is one of my favourite sports. ill health put a stop to it. Keep up the good work. Manny
dolf92 Hi, Thanks very much for the kind offer. Currently I only shoot Recurve, and I would hate to accept your gift and not get round to using the wood. Making a long bow has always appealed to me but for now I think I have enough on. Thanks very much for the offer. Crispin
Hi mr crispin, excellent work. I just had a thought you mention using a larger lathe and collet to drill and tap the axles. Could you not do this using a fixed steady still driving with the dog? You need enough room between centres of course. I am more than impressed with your skills. Keep up the good work you are all ready a master craftsman.. well done. Manny
Dave Ticehurst Yes perhaps. The original thought was that oil is better distributed when lubricating at the start of a run, ie if there was only one hole and it was pointing down, not much oil would get to the top as it would all be squirted in to the felt pad at the bottom.
Excellent Crispin. Just to clarify, did you just take it out of the lathe dog, turn it around then carry on the outside diameter the other side and then the shoulder. Or did the lathe dog just cover the shoulder, so when you turned it around and put the dog on the other side you only had the shoulder to machine? Regards Mike
Michael Edwards Hi, Yes the length that the lathe dog required was less than the length of the shoulder, So you were correct with your second suggestion.
Thanks Crispin Excellent video. keep them coming. I am in the process of building the new workshop but really need to start on a 5" Pansy. I've always wanted one and have the N Gauge version but not the same :-)
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Nice job Mr. Crispin, it's well thought out and expertly executed.
Great Video Crispin! really enjoy watching your planning, engineering, and machining.
Excellent Crispin well described.
That is a great design you have for the oilers !!!
Very useful information and technique MrCrispin. The burnishing ball on a stick was excellent. Thanks, Daniel
nice work, Mr, Crispin. I hadn't previously seen that trick for burnishing the seat. very clever.
Great segment! I liked the fixture you made. Very creative, simple and it got the job done. I will store that one away for future reference. Thanks!
Thanks for another interesting video.You might talk about press fit tolerances. Regards, Matthew
Great video, MrChrispin! I really like you idea for the oilers. Thanks for sharing.
my wife's father was a machinist for the Rock Island Arsenal here in town. he has built many things which are of superior quality as are yours...were he alive today, he was been impressed with your work :) cheers, Chuck
You are an outstanding craftsman.
I have seen live steam models with Zerk fittings in the axles. The Zerk fittings can be had in different sizes and they are threaded with tapered threads. They are a shaped check valve for grease but they should work with oil. With one installed in an axle end the axle center will be protected from the elements so removal will have a good center hole.
Very clever; thank you for sharing, Mr. Crispin! I'm looking forward to the next video.
--Bruce.
coming along very nicely thanks for sharing
I short demonstration of the cross hole centering jug to alighn your vice or bar stock would be appreciated. Many I guess would not be familiar with it !
Hi Crispin,
Some nice between centres work, but a few for maximum precision there are a couple of points that are frequently missed out
The live centre in the headstock should be an unhardened one and be trued up in situ before commencing the job. Many people are completely unaware of the existence of soft centres and they're not easy to find these days, but you can buy Morse taper stub end arbors or recycle a worn out taper shank twist drill and machine your own 60 degree taper on the soft end. You'll see Keith Fenner using a bit of mild steel bar stock in the three or four jaw chuck as a centre. If you have a big lathe, you'd rather not remove a heavy chuck!
A dead centre in the tailstock is more accurate than a running centre. Unless the running centre has had its taper ground with the centre revolving assembled in its (well preloaded) bearings, then there will be runout. My cylindrical grinder can revolve the work around two dead centres for maximum accuracy.
P.S. You might want to contact Don Cossitt. Even at 144 resolution, your videos look nearly as crisp as his. He could do with some advice on rendering, encoding and file sizes.
Paul Compton Hi Thanks for the feed back, I have used the soft centres your talking about at Rolls Royce. Strangely I have never thought to sort something out for home! I will say though that the amount of run out with a good centre in my spindle is minuscule but yes I agree with the principle. I seem to have selected the wrong option for rendering my self this time! I'm not quite sure that happened.
Thank you for that information, interesting about the live centres. Regards Tassie John
Great idea about the oiling of the axels
nice work. great execution. thanks for sharing.
Nicely done. Thanks for sharing.
Great masterpiece Mr Crispin. Happy New year.
Why lubricate through the axle ? All things considered, I'd go for a grease nipple on the static bearings - at the top and towards the back - so that grease would be moved forward and over the top - which is the bit that's bearing the weight of the loco.
Super vid. Well explained. I like the lube system.
Very good, but the title should say AXLES. Unless you are aiming for the american market of course.
Very good explanation...
G'day Crispin very nice work and a good idea. What type of steel did you use for the axels? Thank you once again learned some more. Regards Tassie John
+John Kinnane Hi, it was EN1A which is just free cutting mild steel basically.
Excellent Videos, what happened since 2 years ago?
Dear Mr crispin, I just heard about your other hobby. Do you make bows if so I could perhaps let you have some nice seasoned ash for a English longbow.Yew of course would be the best but its rarer than gold. I have made several longbows as its one of my hobbies alas serious ill health prevent practise and building. It use to take me up to 2 week to craft a full size bow(84inches)with a chosen draw length and weight 70ib . Target and distance Archery is one of my favourite sports. ill health put a stop to it. Keep up the good work. Manny
dolf92 Hi, Thanks very much for the kind offer. Currently I only shoot Recurve, and I would hate to accept your gift and not get round to using the wood. Making a long bow has always appealed to me but for now I think I have enough on. Thanks very much for the offer. Crispin
Hi mr crispin, excellent work. I just had a thought you mention using a larger lathe and collet to drill and tap the axles. Could you not do this using a fixed steady still driving with the dog? You need enough room between centres of course. I am more than impressed with your skills. Keep up the good work you are all ready a master craftsman.. well done. Manny
dolf92 Thanks
you've essentially created a check valve in the end of your axle
Nice work Crispin enjoyed thanks
Surely you only needed to drill the cross hole half way ? The oil would have come out the hole and run itself around the groove.
Dave Ticehurst Yes perhaps. The original thought was that oil is better distributed when lubricating at the start of a run, ie if there was only one hole and it was pointing down, not much oil would get to the top as it would all be squirted in to the felt pad at the bottom.
How very cunning, Her majesty's goverment will have to keep an eye on you....
Audio please
Excellent Crispin. Just to clarify, did you just take it out of the lathe dog, turn it around then carry on the outside diameter the other side and then the shoulder. Or did the lathe dog just cover the shoulder, so when you turned it around and put the dog on the other side you only had the shoulder to machine? Regards Mike
Michael Edwards Hi, Yes the length that the lathe dog required was less than the length of the shoulder, So you were correct with your second suggestion.
Thanks Crispin
Excellent video. keep them coming. I am in the process of building the new workshop but really need to start on a 5" Pansy. I've always wanted one and have the N Gauge version but not the same :-)
is it only me whos only able to watch this in a very pixelated 144p?
andyg3 I think its the nut on the key borad to blame. I think I selected the wrong option when rendering.
MrCrispin96 fair enough, i'v got calipers and bits of land rover on mine!
MrCrispin96 The technical term being PEBCAK (Problem Exists Between Chair And Keyboard) - otherwise a great video - keep 'em coming
andyg3 When i say nut on the key board I mean me!
MrCrispin96 doh!
of course
Happy new year❤️
Mene abhi abhi kill chor or casetoo ki mixing voice over dena start Kiya he 🌹jara video dekh kar batana kuch kami he to jarur batana please video Puri dekhna🤍❤️🧡💛🤍💚💙