I enjoy your videos very much. My hydraulic guy says whenever a hose makes a sharp 90 you should use a steel 90. Hydraulic oil will cut the hose eventually. Just food for thought. Sometimes you have to use what you got. Thanks
Hi, I was following along on your power shaft replacement vid eliminating the rubber bushings and subsequent failure. In my mind you need those bushings to help with drive line vibration. By rebuilding with heavier components you are just shifting the failure point to next weakest point in driveline, hopefully not the crankshaft. I worked on many of these many years ago, yes the bushings are pain, yes they pound out quickly, but they pound out because they are doing their job and they are sacrificial. Better to replace them than larger components.
I can appreciate the job the bushings did. I was looking for a way to eliminate the solid shaft just for ease of removal/alignment/distance/etc. all the things the dog bone did poorly. I’ve considered trying to incorporate some rubber bushings, but haven’t come up with a good way. I still believe my original broke because it was cheap china junk, the replacement part is just better built. As I understand what a driveline guy told me, the u-joints will absorb some of the back-forth motion when you shut it down. As for any other vibrations, I can only hope for the best!
Over the pond in the UK, we get an excellent monthly magazine......CLASSIC TRACTOR....in Aprils issue 2023 in the ask letters page, wanted to know correct colour for north american MF tractors like 1155 and 4000 range of artics (bend in middle)......wheel centres, bonnet, fenders & cab are painted MF super red, the chassis were painted Flint grey metalic, other colour was silver mist on grille stripes and chin, the black is any dull black..........most of USA models never came over here, apart from the 4000 range...
Hey JT, don't you hate those nights thinking about what could go wrong!:( I had problems with my project where for reasons unknown the timing was way out. Timing chain jump? Shouldn't, it only has 1000 miles on it. Finally looked at the new HEI distributor. The seal keeping the crankcase gases, in the crankcase, had failed and basically fused the distributor shaft. It was so tight I could hardly turn it. After disassembly, clean and lube I got it spinning just fine. Still, ( in the middle of the night ) did this cause the chain to jump. Not wanting to run it without knowing I tore it down to see that everything was OK. Half a day and $18.00 for gaskets let me sleep just fine!:) After market stuff can really suck!!
Brakes are alleys good I have driven lots of old tractors with no brakes and its not fun especially in Northern Ontario Canada their's not one flat spot in miles much safer keep the great videos coming
I’ve gotten by without brakes on this for better than a year, but I’d hate to push my luck. Only takes one fool to dart in front on me and I can’t stop 🫤. If it wasn’t for other people on the roads I’d be fine 😆
Hi friend great video and al be following you to find out if you have any problems with your very nice looking tractor in the future. Please keep the great videos coming friend from Scotland
Excellent footage of what I would call a shite job, laying underneath, no room to work. Godsend having power tools, in my day, none of such luxuries. Your power tool seem to clutch slip, not sure if yours is anything like mine, mine goes to 25, but beyond 2 more, maximum drill bit & hammer drill, moving mine to max drill bit size basicilly locks the power tool up, only thing left to slip is my bloody wrist!!!
That impact has been my most used tool on the farm for years lol. Great impact, but not much for solid drill like spinning. It makes jobs like that much easier!
The 1155 is a beautiful machine BUT the 1805 gives the farm that 'Versatile' look!!! You must have bumped up your video editing software. Good tune. MF's are like Dodge trucks. They always kook good. Cheers.
The clutch pedal on my 1805 won't release the clutch. So must be either the throw out bearing failed or one of those three tabs that the throw out bearing pushes against. Still runs ok bc I can start it in gear....but backing up to equipment is a little tricky. Clutch doesn't slip any under load.
@@jtsbarnngrill6873 The linkage all moves....but nothing happens inside the clutch housing. After seeing you pull that clutch cover off, I think I will open that up and see what it looks like. Hopefully my oil lines don't look like yours did!
If it appears everything is functioning properly to release the pressure plate your clutch disc is probably stuck to the flywheel. Hook up to some tillage and go to the field. Under load hold the clutch pedal down it will eventually bust free.
@@yakpenoose yeah.... I suppose that would result in the same symptoms. I can't put it in the field for several months yet. What would cause the clutch to stick like that? Dirt I suppose....
@North Dakota Ham usually happens when clutch gets close to wore out. Rusts together if tractor sits alot. I did a 4020 jd just hooked it to a big tree and did same thing
Glad to see she’s coming along! I got another MF 1100 question: found a small filter basically under seat while trying to diagnose hydraulic leak. What is that filter? Hydraulic maybe?
Our 1805 is my favorite to drive on an international farm. You have any experience or know anyone familiar with a multipower 180? Ours had a creeper gear added in and we'd like to take that out. Not sure how hard it would be. It's already split because a shifter fork snapped.
That’s interesting, the 180 low 1st is pretty darn slow without a creeper gear added lol. I have not seen anything like that in my experiences, be curious to see that
Hey JT i´ve been watching you for a while now and i wonder what the "griil" has to do with your name . love from Denmark stay safe and let the videos roll
I got a question for you jt I put a new clucth on my 255 in December and was just running down the road yesterday and is starting to smoke again around the stater the tractor only has 2000 hours on it and it's on its second clucth the only thing I can think of the tires are loaded would that make extra strain on the clucth
Loaded tires shouldn’t make a difference, my two thoughts would be, 1; is there enough free travel in the clutch pedal? If it’s adjusted too tight it will act like your clutch is pushed in just a hair, and that will prematurely wear it out. The other thought is the flywheel wasn’t machined properly when you put the clutch in, or not machined when the clutch was changed? They have a 2 step flywheel on them, and the exact same amount must be machined from each plane of the flywheel or it will cause the clutch disc to not seat as tight on the flywheel this causing a slip
Ok thanks the fly wheel was nice and smooth and the free play good thinking might be a cheap clucth disk and pressure plate I have changed lots Of tractor cluches never had a problem it doesn't slip just smokes might end up changing the clucth again thanks for the help jt
Hi there JT, another great video, been watching you for a good while now from the Northeast corner of Scotland ,(Aberdeenshire) in a small village called New Pitsligo, maybe give me a shout out at some point, i am an MF fan myself and have an MF 590 tractor witch i use for road runs, take to shows and collect firewood with my trailer or (bogie) as we call it in Scotland, many thanks and keep the vids coming, regards Roland.
Yes, took a brass pipe off. I’m not so sure there is “full” pressure at that point. I could be wrong, and I’ll be the first to know if I am…😬 but where the hose comes in at the top of the bell housing under the floor it has a rubber-Ferrell type compression fitting. I can’t believe that would withstand full psi. But again, I could be wrong. That’s the only reason I put brass back in
@@mythreesonsfarms I have 40 plus years as a Journeyman Millwright working on a lot of Hydraulic Systems, just in my experiences with the high pressure hydraulic hoses I would have replaced the fittings with high pressure steel fittings. The fittings are rated for higher PSI which the hoses are also. Obviously the prior owner of this tractor has worked on this issue and the poor craftsmanship of past is seen in the cross threading on the compression fits. I am sure JT is comfortable with his fix and there maybe no issues in the future, good luck.
Small maintenance on a Massey could be quick, but other stuff that requires fixing some parts... nope. I have an IMT (Yugo Massey version), and I need an entire 15 minutes to take down hood plates. Everything is so tightly packed, and let's not talk about the hydraulic pump that is inside.😅
if I keep watching this video series I will end up buying one of these tractors.
😉. I should have about every problem covered here shortly lol
I enjoy your videos very much. My hydraulic guy says whenever a hose makes a sharp 90 you should use a steel 90. Hydraulic oil will cut the hose eventually. Just food for thought. Sometimes you have to use what you got. Thanks
Love that you have something different. I am a IH guy myself but really enjoy the different manufacturers. Thanks for daring to be different
Right on! Who knows…. Might get a Steiger or something crazy someday
Great video, things were so much simpler back then. Now there'd be a gaggle of sensors to contend with as well as the leaks.
That’s for sure!
Hi, I was following along on your power shaft replacement vid eliminating the rubber bushings and subsequent failure.
In my mind you need those bushings to help with drive line vibration. By rebuilding with heavier components you are just shifting the failure point to next weakest point in driveline, hopefully not the crankshaft. I worked on many of these many years ago, yes the bushings are pain, yes they pound out quickly, but they pound out because they are doing their job and they are sacrificial. Better to replace them than larger components.
There are new polyurethane bushings that last and absorb harmonics .
May be a good option.
I can appreciate the job the bushings did. I was looking for a way to eliminate the solid shaft just for ease of removal/alignment/distance/etc. all the things the dog bone did poorly. I’ve considered trying to incorporate some rubber bushings, but haven’t come up with a good way. I still believe my original broke because it was cheap china junk, the replacement part is just better built. As I understand what a driveline guy told me, the u-joints will absorb some of the back-forth motion when you shut it down. As for any other vibrations, I can only hope for the best!
@@jtsbarnngrill6873 Chinesium.. A crisis today in all repairs .
Over the pond in the UK, we get an excellent monthly magazine......CLASSIC TRACTOR....in Aprils issue 2023 in the ask letters page, wanted to know correct colour for north american MF tractors like 1155 and 4000 range of artics (bend in middle)......wheel centres, bonnet, fenders & cab are painted MF super red, the chassis were painted Flint grey metalic, other colour was silver mist on grille stripes and chin, the black is any dull black..........most of USA models never came over here, apart from the 4000 range...
Love the aliens. Great throw back. They crack me. 🤣👍
Can't wait to see her working
Hey JT, don't you hate those nights thinking about what could go wrong!:( I had problems with my project where for reasons unknown the timing was way out. Timing chain jump? Shouldn't, it only has 1000 miles on it. Finally looked at the new HEI distributor. The seal keeping the crankcase gases, in the crankcase, had failed and basically fused the distributor shaft. It was so tight I could hardly turn it. After disassembly, clean and lube I got it spinning just fine. Still, ( in the middle of the night ) did this cause the chain to jump. Not wanting to run it without knowing I tore it down to see that everything was OK. Half a day and $18.00 for gaskets let me sleep just fine!:) After market stuff can really suck!!
That happens more than I’d like to admit 😉
Glad to see your videos.
Brakes are alleys good I have driven lots of old tractors with no brakes and its not fun especially in Northern Ontario Canada their's not one flat spot in miles much safer keep the great videos coming
I’ve gotten by without brakes on this for better than a year, but I’d hate to push my luck. Only takes one fool to dart in front on me and I can’t stop 🫤. If it wasn’t for other people on the roads I’d be fine 😆
You the man great job!
Thanks for posting JT
You bet
Good video your in your element
Hi friend great video and al be following you to find out if you have any problems with your very nice looking tractor in the future. Please keep the great videos coming friend from Scotland
Thanks! Hopefully I have most of the bugs worked out😉
Really enjoy the videos keep them coming please👍
Another great video thanks 👍🏻
Great Video. Simple old tractor. Nice 1805. Thanks for the videos.
One benefit to the 1805…. Simple as they come 😉
Great video keep them coming
Will do, thanks!
Excellent footage of what I would call a shite job, laying underneath, no room to work. Godsend having power tools, in my day, none of such luxuries. Your power tool seem to clutch slip, not sure if yours is anything like mine, mine goes to 25, but beyond 2 more, maximum drill bit & hammer drill, moving mine to max drill bit size basicilly locks the power tool up, only thing left to slip is my bloody wrist!!!
That impact has been my most used tool on the farm for years lol. Great impact, but not much for solid drill like spinning. It makes jobs like that much easier!
Now u got peace of mind !
Exactly!
The 1155 is a beautiful machine BUT the 1805 gives the farm that 'Versatile' look!!!
You must have bumped up your video editing software. Good tune.
MF's are like Dodge trucks. They always kook good.
Cheers.
The clutch pedal on my 1805 won't release the clutch. So must be either the throw out bearing failed or one of those three tabs that the throw out bearing pushes against. Still runs ok bc I can start it in gear....but backing up to equipment is a little tricky. Clutch doesn't slip any under load.
I’ll bet that’s what is going on. Linkage is all moving I assume?
@@jtsbarnngrill6873 The linkage all moves....but nothing happens inside the clutch housing. After seeing you pull that clutch cover off, I think I will open that up and see what it looks like. Hopefully my oil lines don't look like yours did!
If it appears everything is functioning properly to release the pressure plate your clutch disc is probably stuck to the flywheel. Hook up to some tillage and go to the field. Under load hold the clutch pedal down it will eventually bust free.
@@yakpenoose yeah.... I suppose that would result in the same symptoms. I can't put it in the field for several months yet. What would cause the clutch to stick like that? Dirt I suppose....
@North Dakota Ham usually happens when clutch gets close to wore out. Rusts together if tractor sits alot. I did a 4020 jd just hooked it to a big tree and did same thing
Another good one love your coupler idea.
It’s been working very well!
I enjoyed the video 👍
Great work. Enjoyed it good detail information. Thanks for sharing
Thank you!
👍
Check your pump suction side for leaks. It didn’t sound good last time.
Will be keeping an eye on it!
Great work JT your some man for one man doing all that on your own your like my self I work better and quicker on my own.👌👌👌
Sometimes it’s just easier 😁
With those fresh steering cylinders, the new john deere autotrac system is going to be really responsive!
That’s what keeps my row crops as straight as Elton John 😆
Very good Video 👍
Thanks!
Glad to see she’s coming along! I got another MF 1100 question: found a small filter basically under seat while trying to diagnose hydraulic leak. What is that filter? Hydraulic maybe?
Let me investigate that one…
Can you email me a picture of it? Email on my home page
Absolutely! Will take a pic tomorrow. Thank you!
Love you videos and I love your cat it's pretty good looking
She’s helpful too 😆
"Sweet Fluffy "!
Our 1805 is my favorite to drive on an international farm. You have any experience or know anyone familiar with a multipower 180? Ours had a creeper gear added in and we'd like to take that out. Not sure how hard it would be. It's already split because a shifter fork snapped.
That’s interesting, the 180 low 1st is pretty darn slow without a creeper gear added lol. I have not seen anything like that in my experiences, be curious to see that
@jtsbarnngrill6873 so far, I can assure you you're not missing out.
You should do a video just on fluffy
Hey JT,,,just curious,,,what would be the reason they went with rubber hose instead of steel braided or solid steel lines?
It sure. Would have made sense to me lol
Hey JT i´ve been watching you for a while now and i wonder what the "griil" has to do with your name . love from Denmark stay safe and let the videos roll
Well, thought it would be clever, like bar n grill, only with a barn lol
I got a question for you jt I put a new clucth on my 255 in December and was just running down the road yesterday and is starting to smoke again around the stater the tractor only has 2000 hours on it and it's on its second clucth the only thing I can think of the tires are loaded would that make extra strain on the clucth
Loaded tires shouldn’t make a difference, my two thoughts would be, 1; is there enough free travel in the clutch pedal? If it’s adjusted too tight it will act like your clutch is pushed in just a hair, and that will prematurely wear it out. The other thought is the flywheel wasn’t machined properly when you put the clutch in, or not machined when the clutch was changed? They have a 2 step flywheel on them, and the exact same amount must be machined from each plane of the flywheel or it will cause the clutch disc to not seat as tight on the flywheel this causing a slip
Ok thanks the fly wheel was nice and smooth and the free play good thinking might be a cheap clucth disk and pressure plate I have changed lots
Of tractor cluches never had a problem it doesn't slip just smokes might end up changing the clucth again thanks for the help jt
JT does the bell housing have a weep hole in it
It exactly, but it does have a hole/relief where the trans brake linkage runs through the bottom of the housing
Hi there JT, another great video, been watching you for a good while now from the Northeast corner of Scotland ,(Aberdeenshire) in a small village called New Pitsligo, maybe give me a shout out at some point, i am an MF fan myself and have an MF 590 tractor witch i use for road runs, take to shows and collect firewood with my trailer or (bogie) as we call it in Scotland, many thanks and keep the vids coming, regards Roland.
Thanks Roland, I will keep that in mind.
Fluffy !
surplus center fer fittings
Everything looked good to me nice job So what did fluffy think of the whole deal lol
She gave it two claws up 😆
Did you use a Brass Pipe with a Brass T on a pressurized system?
Yes, took a brass pipe off. I’m not so sure there is “full” pressure at that point. I could be wrong, and I’ll be the first to know if I am…😬 but where the hose comes in at the top of the bell housing under the floor it has a rubber-Ferrell type compression fitting. I can’t believe that would withstand full psi. But again, I could be wrong. That’s the only reason I put brass back in
What does this mean if he did or didn't? I am curious.
Brass isn’t ideal for super high pressure systems as it’s a softer metal. Steel fittings are best.
@@mythreesonsfarms I have 40 plus years as a Journeyman Millwright working on a lot of Hydraulic Systems, just in my experiences with the high pressure hydraulic hoses I would have replaced the fittings with high pressure steel fittings. The fittings are rated for higher PSI which the hoses are also. Obviously the prior owner of this tractor has worked on this issue and the poor craftsmanship of past is seen in the cross threading on the compression fits. I am sure JT is comfortable with his fix and there maybe no issues in the future, good luck.
@@timr9358 I sure hope so. He really tries hard to fix his on equipment.
Impacts don't like to spin things. A drill is what you needed but you said you didn't have one so just for future reference.
🫡👏🍻👍😅
What does the church parking lot look like
😆😆
I didn't mean to look over your shoulder about the drive shaft. Obviously with a 1000 hours it's is good. Sorry
No worries. I’m just glad it’s been as good as I hoped it would be
You are going to be mad when you go back a 3rd time for the grease line.
I get better at it every time
Small maintenance on a Massey could be quick, but other stuff that requires fixing some parts... nope.
I have an IMT (Yugo Massey version), and I need an entire 15 minutes to take down hood plates. Everything is so tightly packed, and let's not talk about the hydraulic pump that is inside.😅
👍