Glad to see this turned into quite the epic for someone else, recently did this climb and ended up getting rescued off due to getting to the exposed step across on the ramp and everything around us was caked in ice. Fun pitches before that though, you get real comfortable doing 15+ ft run outs. 😂 Glad you guys made it out. I laughed way too hard you saying "fuck, where the fuck am I." I said the same thing like 10 times and even once where you said it lolol but at that point we were climbing with head lamps for the past 5 hours.
14:55 when you secure with slings over protrusions, i use a self tightening knot to add friction, so that sling cannot come off easily. Great pitch and so nice you show your confusion. Part of the adventure and the game! Thanks for sharing.
Watching these, I always am screaming inside, place pro there! But then I think back to my long multipitch climbs, where things feel easy and secure. Before you know it, you are 40 feet above the last piece and decide its about time to place.
Killer! Years ago I ran a window cleaning business where we would use an elevator to the top and then rappel down. That's the type of climbing we did. LOL! Great job! I don't believe I could do that.
Dang, not a lot of spots for gear 😳 out of curiousity, it looked fairly straight (Except for the belay traverse at the end). Why did you extend all your runners?
Matt D. Hurley Music Force of habit I suppose. The climbing wasn't difficult and I didn't really know where I was going to end up so I figured no harm.
You ALWAYS extend all your runners on multipitch (especially of the slabby kind). If you don't you often face horrendous drag especially on longer pitches.
@@jimclarke9086 true by the BOOK you don't but in practice on multi pitch most find it makes rope drag more manageble. I wont extend them if i am at the beginning of a climb for obvious reasons but once a few pitches up it helps, again with anything there are always exceptions to the rule per se.
Heh, I racked WAY too much stuff. I'm pretty sure a single rack with some smaller stuff (good set of nuts would work) and larger stuff (4/5/6) to protect the chimneys if you're not comfortable with that. Like much of Red Rock, bring a lot of alpine draws, you'll come across a ton of bolts.
where was that climb located, and what grade was the route....didn't look too hard....but then again that is easy to say from this vantage point - I was thinking 5.9 or 10a??
Nope, we went all the way to the top, roughly 4 more pitches but you can simul most of it. After Pitch 12, you really don't have a choice but to go to the top. Pitches 11 & 12 lack hardware to rap from. Even if we wanted to rap, I'm not sure we could since all we had was a single 70 with us. I pretty sure traditionally people not summiting rap from the top of the Black tower (End of pitch 7). To do so would require 2 ropes.
the lead climber places pro and the second climber cleans the pitches as to say the remove all the gear as they go up to meet the lead at the belay station and if the climbers are switcin lead every other pitch then they dont change gear but if your second climber is not good for lead then they will pass all the pro to you the lead and they will lead the next pitch
yeah I agree @nofalling he said it once we get it, if you dont like it dont watch it, everyone has a diffrent view on everything an people choose to climb diffrently
dude, the amount of run out before your first gear made my hands sweaty as fuck
i feel you i was like please dont fall right now man your gonna fly past belay
Glad to see this turned into quite the epic for someone else, recently did this climb and ended up getting rescued off due to getting to the exposed step across on the ramp and everything around us was caked in ice. Fun pitches before that though, you get real comfortable doing 15+ ft run outs. 😂 Glad you guys made it out. I laughed way too hard you saying "fuck, where the fuck am I." I said the same thing like 10 times and even once where you said it lolol but at that point we were climbing with head lamps for the past 5 hours.
14:55 when you secure with slings over protrusions, i use a self tightening knot to add friction, so that sling cannot come off easily. Great pitch and so nice you show your confusion. Part of the adventure and the game! Thanks for sharing.
I would like to see your anchor at the end of 11 and 12.
Watching these, I always am screaming inside, place pro there! But then I think back to my long multipitch climbs, where things feel easy and secure. Before you know it, you are 40 feet above the last piece and decide its about time to place.
And here is me, watch this on my comfy bed with a glass of choco and a blanket.
"That is not so good, but I'm in a state where I just don't care"
-First Person Beta.
This beats anything on netflix!
no
Great vid. Looks difficult following a route on that. Keep up the good work!
one of the best video ever seen on youtube
Nice solo dude lol
I love mental protection.
Protip for those chicken heads....girth hitch the feature. They will stay on them much better.
nice
Killer! Years ago I ran a window cleaning business where we would use an elevator to the top and then rappel down. That's the type of climbing we did. LOL! Great job! I don't believe I could do that.
What is the ideal clothes for rock limb ing in summer bc I'm just getting into it. ;) thanks
I got only one question, how do you guys climbd back down?
they hike/walk down to the parking lot
3:48 nice greps
I will keep my 2 feet firmly on the ground !
Dang, not a lot of spots for gear 😳 out of curiousity, it looked fairly straight (Except for the belay traverse at the end). Why did you extend all your runners?
Matt D. Hurley Music Force of habit I suppose. The climbing wasn't difficult and I didn't really know where I was going to end up so I figured no harm.
You ALWAYS extend all your runners on multipitch (especially of the slabby kind). If you don't you often face horrendous drag especially on longer pitches.
@@rushthezeppelin On a dead vertical straight pitch? Might wanna have that discussion with some AMGA guides...you don't ALWAYS extend your runners.
@@jimclarke9086 true by the BOOK you don't but in practice on multi pitch most find it makes rope drag more manageble. I wont extend them if i am at the beginning of a climb for obvious reasons but once a few pitches up it helps, again with anything there are always exceptions to the rule per se.
Where is pitch 14?
dude you were DYING on these final pitches lol it was pretty strenuous huh?
Nice
What did you rack for this climb/what would you recommend racking for this climb (the whole thing, not just this pitch)?
Heh, I racked WAY too much stuff. I'm pretty sure a single rack with some smaller stuff (good set of nuts would work) and larger stuff (4/5/6) to protect the chimneys if you're not comfortable with that. Like much of Red Rock, bring a lot of alpine draws, you'll come across a ton of bolts.
serious question how do you get down again xD?
nice vid..
Thanks. Walked off. Turned into quite the epic.
Did you lead the whole climb ?? pitch 9 to 12 seems to be the same leader
Only pitches I didn't lead were 1 and 3
Lucky
where was that climb located, and what grade was the route....didn't look too hard....but then again that is easy to say from this vantage point - I was thinking 5.9 or 10a??
This pitch was 5.7. Epinephrine is located in Black Velvet Canyon just outside Red Rock Canyon State Park.
Did you rap down after this pitch?
Nope, we went all the way to the top, roughly 4 more pitches but you can simul most of it.
After Pitch 12, you really don't have a choice but to go to the top. Pitches 11 & 12 lack hardware to rap from. Even if we wanted to rap, I'm not sure we could since all we had was a single 70 with us. I pretty sure traditionally people not summiting rap from the top of the Black tower (End of pitch 7). To do so would require 2 ropes.
@@FirstPersonBeta why does it require 2 ropes?
As a person which never climbed before, these hooks that he puts in those cracks doesnt look trustworthy at all
They're not. It's purely psychological protection.
how do you retrive your anchors below after you finish?
The person below gets them as they climb up
the lead climber places pro and the second climber cleans the pitches as to say the remove all the gear as they go up to meet the lead at the belay station and if the climbers are switcin lead every other pitch then they dont change gear but if your second climber is not good for lead then they will pass all the pro to you the lead and they will lead the next pitch
Woo
2:35 look not so safety
The placement looks fine
there is way to much rope between the runners
When in doubt run it out.
I got dirreha after watching the whole vedio.
Amazing...i don't belive is true.oh my God.
Seems easy. @_@
You need to learn how to place gear! Your placements are scary!
Pretty sure he knows how to place gear
You need to learn how to place gear!
This is an ignorant comment. If you have a legitimate critique, on a specific placement, make it. Otherwise you are just trolling.
yeah I agree @nofalling he said it once we get it, if you dont like it dont watch it, everyone has a diffrent view on everything an people choose to climb diffrently