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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- Replacement chuck: amzn.to/3x8EzU5
Heavy duty chuck: amzn.to/3m903dg
Hammer through screwdriver: amzn.to/3NfU8z6
Allen key: amzn.to/3t9Ozds
Dead blow hammer: amzn.to/3NQtugc
G-clamp: amzn.to/3z9IEZT
Makita DHP453 Cordless Hammer Drill 18v: amzn.to/3xcaHXi
Makita DDF484Z 18v Brushless Drill Driver: amzn.to/3NNhtrD
In this video I demonstate how to easily remove a stubborn keyless chuck from a battery Makita drill.
• Remove and Replace Key...
Please have a look at some of my other films.
www.shedtv.net
I am not aware of any copyright or any other rule infringement on my channel. If however, you are aware of any; please contact me.
My dad died not so long back but ive just found his old tools and thanks to you I’ve got them in working order
My condolences. Lovely to hear you're using his tools though. Thank you.
Keep some of those tools as momentos which rarely get used and give them to your son if you have one. Ive got a meat cleaver of my granddad and a pair of multi grips of my dads which neither of them get used now and my boy will probably get a heap of tools of mine.
Paketen. Emetabos
Pketa emetsod😢😮
@@ShedTV Have you tried to remove a broken keyless Makita chuck before where the inner part of the chuck is just broken and loose? It means you can't manually tighten the chuck. It's almost like this situation with a Makita chuck I have in a drill as you have shown in this video. th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html
Great, my chuck slips so it does not take up as your one does, so it slips when you hit it, looks like its the grinder for me
My 40 year old drill is now "brand new" thanks to you!
Brilliant, another one saved from the landfill! That's really pleasing to hear. Cheers!
My folks had been trying to replace their chuck using tiny hammers to turn the allen wrench - when I saw you using a big mallet, I knew that wouldn't work.
Put it in a vice on the garden table, grabbed the biggest rock I could find, and gave it a solid wack. Turns out after tens of thousands of years, a big rock is still the most reliable tool available to mankind.
Cheers and thanks for the great video!
Man versus machine! Cheers!
Thanks mate! I was having the same problem getting the chuck off and almost every video I watched wasn't covering every base! Cheers again!
Thank you so much! I was stumped as it wouldn't budge but followed your instructions and it came off!
Excellent! Cheers!
Very clear and straightforward demonstration. Kept it simple - excellent
Thank you.
Thanks for this. Eventually managed to get mine off using this although tbf I think it must come down to an element of luck/technique. I tried hammering the allen key loads of times when it was clamped that tightly it was bending the grip and it never came loose. I tried just holding it on the workbench to show my wife that it wasn't working and lo and behold it suddenly spun off. She's putting it down to her expert supervision.
That’s exactly what it was!
nice one. Just ordered a new chuck for my DHP481 and this helps a lot. Top job mate
Thank you!
Thanks so much for this - simple, understandable, easy to follow and (best of all) it worked like a charm! I was amazed at how straightforward the whole process was. Thanks again.
Thanks for those kind words. I'm glad it worked for you.
Thanks very much you you’re the only one that’s shown how to do it properly
Good of of you to say so, thank you.
Thank you for posting this video. I am working on a 6095D 9.6v makita drill. Very good video!
worked perfectly for me all points covered tried previously many times before to remove my chuck with out success
Cheers!
Thanks Mate, great video. Just what I needed to fix my Makita.
Nice one, thanks mate!
Appreciate the tips on replacing the chuck. I used your information to do mine today. If you really want to take the old chuck off quickly, use a heavy-duty impact gun. Pops off in one second!
Oh that's interesting, I never thought of using an impact to spin the chuck off. To be honest though, that part has never been the problem, it's usually getting the screw out where I fall down. Cheers.
@@ShedTV your way would have worked perfectly. Appreciate you making the video - the whole thing took less than 45 seconds. :-)
Great video - the one on my Makita DHP484Z (just out of warranty hahaha) has shed a small spriing clip - if the chuck fails I now know how to replace it. Thank you.
Straight to the point and Bang... excellent
Thank you!
well done! My Makita drill has a terrible chuck, it always slips drilling metal. I just bought a Jacobs chuck.
Why do Makita insist on putting cheap plastic chucks on decent drill bodies...3 months old chuck jaws worn out.
So finding this how to video was great....
Was going to ask if you could swap a plastic chuck for a metal version, but you managed to inadvertently demonstrate that's possible too so thanks for that.
Just ordered a new replacement metal chuck.
Thanks for your comment. I think that Makita have done well in a very competitive market to continue to produce fairly decent quality kit. But inevitably a price war drives quality down, particularly with the entry-level to mid-range drills. I've got a DHP482, for example, which is a cracking drill for £45 bare, but they'd never be able to pump them out at that price with a high-end chuck.
The Yukiwa metal-sleeved chucks are garbage. The one on my XPH07 has very noticeable runout (I'd estimate around .015") and doesn't grip bits all that well. I put a fairly inexpensive Rohm on one of my other drills, and it's been far superior.
Yeah don't get it just phoned Makita Service at Milton Keynes about warranty repair because now have two drills with knackered chucks.....
He said send it in to them.....but upon reading the chucks are not covered by 3 year warranty.....
loud and very clear demontrations boss.. thank you very much to your video..👍
Thank you.
Excellant how-to vid,. Pulled the ol switcher-oo. Nice!
Thank you. It was a bit of a 'Eureka!' moment when I realised what I'd been doing wrong!
Thank you very much! As usual, it's the details that are most important.
Cheers mate. I’m glad you found it useful.
Great video, thank you for the detailed instructions. I want to replace my rubber coated Makita 3/8" chuck with an all-metal unit. I was amused that you did exactly that in your video. Thank you, sir. Can you suggest an all-metal chuck, brand and model that you have used that works well?
Thanks! Yes, there are links to couple of options in the description.
This is the way to remove a chuck Thank You!!!
Thanks!
Thank you so much from Canada!
Cheers mate!
I had a very hard time getting the screw out because they set it with Locktite. I got some great advice from a local tool repair shop. I had to heat It up with a butane torch I bought at Harbor Freight. I pointed the torch at the screw while engaging the drill in slow speed to distribute the heat for about a minute. Too much heat and you might melt any plastic connected so be careful. Also make sure you use a large screwdriver for better torque. It finally broke free so I was able to replace the chuck. ✌️
That Locktite stuff comes ready painted onto the screw. I suppose the friction of inserting it and the heat created by the drill sets it tight. Whatever happens they are sometimes really hard to shift. I've had to resort to cutting two chucks off recently, but I will try your technique next time. Cheers.
Thanks, I was having a nightmare with the screw. Ended up using a heat gun and impact rench to loosen it.
I spent an hour trying on 3 different drills to get the screw loose. I gave up and bought new drills.
Thank you so much for the demonstration.
Cheers!
Awesome video! Worked like a charm , really needed to give it a good whack with the hammer. You da man. Thanks so much!!!
Nice one, cheers!
Thanks for the efficient summary. This was helpful in hacking a new front end onto my sub-compact drill.
Thanks. Glad you found it useful.
Just bought the sub compact hammer drill. Do you reckon I can get the plastic chuck replaced with a metal one?
@@The88Nomad Yes, your drill will most like likely have a 1/2" x 20 UNF thread, so just about any chuck of this size should do. I've fitted several different chucks to Makitas and the only problem I've had was with one particular ROHM chuck where the threaded part was slightly recessed causing it to foul on the screws on the end of the gearbox. I solved this with an M12 washer.
@@ShedTV Lovely. Thank you very much for sharing your expertise and your information. Much, much appreciated!
Thanks for the video, can you recommend any non oem chucks?
Thanks. Try amzn.to/3x8EzU5 for a cheaper one or this heavy duty version amzn.to/3m903dg
Thanks for those necessary details!
Cheers mate!
My aim isn't as good as yours. Took me 3 times to hit that Allen wrench square! Great video. Thanks!
Haha, funny! Cheers mate.
Helped me. Ofcourse got my hand hurt a little. But only the 3rd-4rth smack helped
Excellent! They can kick back a bit!
Im trying exactly as exampled here and the Allen key turns the gearbox with a clicking motion. Any advice for what this means? Cheers.
Although the the chuck, gearbox and motor are locked together in low gear it is still possible to rotate it via the chuck; you can hear the gears moving in reverse. A sudden striking force should eventually free the chuck from the gearbox shaft. Sometimes they're really stubborn, all I can suggest is get the biggest, longest allen key you can find and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. Good luck!
@@ShedTV I hit it close to a dozen times before I gave up 😅
I was using my drill in a really terrible manner. I several times used it on an angle trying to make a 12mm hole in 5mm steel with an 8mm bit for example. I think I've ruined the gears or clutch so might need to change it further back in the drill. The sound of the gears as I wind the Allen key is horrible.
@@The33DegreeVegan Oh dear! I use powertoolspares.com for exploded diagrams and spare parts. To be honest, unless it's a really high specification machine it might well to be beyond economic repair though.
nice...!! tqvm for a vry helpful info...
Used my matching Makita Hammer Drill to loosen the inside left handed screw,much easier to break the screw loose
Yes, I imagine it would. I've not had to resort to that yet, I'm a fat bloke with a strong grip!
Nice Job!! very clear ,worked perfect . Cheers!
Good to hear, thanks.
Thank you for this clear explanation.
Thank you.
Congratulations, the best video I found at the right time.
Tomorrow I get the new keyless drill chuck for MAKITA DHP453 (spare parts 766004-9), is the procedure the same in your opinion?
Thanks
Thank you. Yes, the white drill is a 453 and the chuck which I remove from the blue drill is the one you describe. Good luck with it!
Hi. Firstly great video, hopefully this will help me with my Makita drill issue.
A question, what size Allen key did you use?
My side issue is the chuck has locked open and all the keys I have are the average size ones. Thanks in advance
I use the biggest and longest I have, depending on the chuck size, but if your chuck is jammed open you're not going to be able to jam an allen key in; it won't grip and as soon as you hit it, it will spin. I recommend you squirt a load of WD40 or similar down there then get the chuck in a vice and try to get the jaws moving using the motor. Mind you don't break your wrist! You could initially put some cloth around it to not rip it up, but if it's really jammed, just tighten it fast in the vice and see if you can get it free enough to grip the allen key. I did make a video years ago where I did something similar, have a look at my channel. Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I attempted to try this out with my Makita sub compact 18v. The screw came out easily but I’m having problems unscrewing the chuck!
With the drill in fwd, low gear, and drill mode, when I try to force the Allen key counter clockwise, the motor slips!?!? Any advice on getting it loose?
Thanks. It's the shock which should free it. If you can find a long allen key and hit hard with a decent sized hammer I would expect it to free off.
Thank you!
Works like a charm.
Glad to hear that!
Thanks mate,those extra tips about low speed and drill mode are important. Are the chucks pretty much universal,I’m not sure which to buy?
Thank you. I don't honestly know if chucks are universal. I've always searched for replacements by the drill model number, which nine times out of ten throws up a part number for which you can shop around; either genuine or aftermarket.
Ahhh so it needs to be in drill mode and not screwdriver. Excellent. Thanks!
Yes, I think it's a combination of that and the torque that you get by being in low speed which gives you the resistance you need to push against.
Thanks for the help!
Not a bother mate!
thanks bro this saves me getting a new drll, again! lol
Cheers!
I've had good luck using an impact driver to break the chuck loose too.
Top tip. Thanks!
Just the job. Lovely. Thanks mate
Cheers!
I wish mine was that easy, did not matter what I did I couldn't remove the screw or the chuck, I ended up drilling the screw head off( I have seen that in a different TH-cam video ) and still could not get the chuck off, ended up angle grinding most of the chuck off and then slowly started Dremilling the rest up the left over chuck so I wouldn't damage the thread of the main drill component and that worked ok, fitted the new chuck and drill is working well
I feel your pain, I've had a couple like that too. I documented one in this video (if you're interested in seeing a man suffer!): th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html
@@ShedTV I saw that video beforehand and I thought it couldn't be that hard but after 2 hours of trying to remove the screw and then the chuck I felt his pain.
Thank you
Thank you! Finally did it!
Cheers!
This video is saved! Thx for a good one!
Cheers!
Wish mines was this easy. Had to cut and grind most of it off right down to the thread and it still won’t budge
Miserable. I had one like that too: th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! This worked!
Cheers!
We just used a 1/2 inch impact with a allen socket in the chuck. Came right off.
Great idea. I'll try that on the next one.
Nice one mate just took one off a millwalkee are the replacement all the same I wonder??
Hi I need to swap my chuck in a battery drill I have taken out the left hand screw ok but because I have dropped a jaw I can’t get a allan key in the chuck how do I get the chuck off please thank john
Just to let you know, I’ve done it. The only way I could see to do it correctly, beyond your steps, was to loosen a grub screw at the back of gearing. I took one look at the process and though forget it. So I took an angle grinder to it and cut it off! New one on, all good. 👍👍
Brilliant. Well done mate.!
Thanks for the vid. Unfortunately this did not work on my DHP484. Followed the procedure exactly, but even the biggest whack I could muster from the hammer only sent the chuck spinning around, never loosening. 😪
You could try spraying some penetrating oil in and leaving it to soak in for a day or two. If that fails you are might well be into the world of cutting the old chuck off, which I have done, but it's pretty painful.
This works: note to people like me who are hqving difficulties removing the chuck. Just use bigger hammer. Hell, I used an axe (flat side) and that did the job. Juat hit it hard, it will come off
Mind where you’re swinging that axe!
Thank you , liked and subscribed
Cheers.
Didn't work for me unfortunately. Removed the left hand centre screw, put in low gear forward, clamped to bench, hit it with reasonable sized hammer as hard as I could. No budge. Got out the air impact wrench driven at 90 psi, with 1/2" drive allen key in chuck. Still no chance of budging. Any clues?
I have tried the impact wrench trick having seeing people suggest it, but I only ever found it to rotate the chuck through the gearbox. All I can suggest is hitting it harder, with a bigger hammer; in drill mode it should break free. That said I have had one recently in which neither the screw nor chuck would move and I resorted to drilling the screw out then cutting the chuck away; all pretty painful, but ultimately effective. Video here, if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
My drill had a tooth - that holds the drill bit- that is stuck out- how will I do this job ??
If you can't get it to grip the allen key you are in for a struggle. Have a look at these two videos I made when I had a similar problem: th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html and th-cam.com/video/F_5EXg5oYuI/w-d-xo.html Good luck!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Thanks!
Blessed thanks .
Cheers!
Good video
Great video 👍👌 it worked on one of my Makita drills, but does not work on my second Makita. Any suggestions please
Thank you. Which part are you struggling with?
@ShedTV I can't crack the chuck off. I hit the Allan key hard several times and still no luck 🙃
@@fanoscharalambous2098 Sometimes they are really tight. Try to find the biggest and longest allen key you can and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. It should shock free eventually.
@ShedTV thanks, will try that. Yesterday I sent about an hour try this and my arm hurts 😫
Im not seeing where there was a problem with the original chuck . What do you do when the chuck to remove is broken ? When it wont tighten on allen wrench ?
In that scenario, things are obviously more difficult. The same principle still applies to the drill settings. I have come across this once and tried to cut the chuck up to be able to grip it with self-grip pliers. Whilst it is theoretically possible, I managed to break the gearbox in the process! I think your best hope is to try to jam something into the broken chuck (maybe a big allen key ground to a taper?) and hit that.
Cool, im thinking about changing my plastic chuck to a metal one on my 14.4v Makita df347d, Do you think it would fit?
I'm not very familiar withe the G-series, I think yours has a 10mm chuck (bit size) and therefore you'd want a 3/8" metal chuck, but do double check.
@@ShedTVwill do thanks 👍😁
Thank you,great video
Cheers!
great vid. thanks man.
Thank you.
Great video, very clear explanation, but it didnt work for me 😭😭
Tried taking the screw out, but the head cammed out because the Loctite bound worse than I could fathom. I've heard tell that it's possible to drill the head out and remove the head, then remove the screw with a locking grip which can be replaced later on.
Yes, it is possible, but it's not easy. Ideally drill a small pilot hole in the screw and increase drill sizes until the head has gone. The screw is quite hard, so you need decent quality, sharp drill bits.
Very good - thanks
What if the chuck is totally fallen to bits like mine and your left with the insides.
I made another video where I cut away a broken chuck to remove screw and chuck remains You've got to weigh up whether it's worth doing though, it took a fair bit of effort! th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html
Your comment on the G-clamp got me wondering. Their orginal name was Carriage makers clamp or carriage clamp (from Wiki). We in the states refer to them as C-clamps (well ... I do); However Im stubborn and will now refer to them as Carriage clamps seeing how Im that way.
I approve of this, I too will be calling them carriage clamps from now on! I think they're generally referred to as G-clamps (or G-cramps) in the UK simply because their shape resembles a capital 'G'.
I tried the hammer, i tried an impact. No dice? Whisky tango foxtrot?
It's that it's the shock which frees it. The longer the allen key and the harder you can hit it, with the biggest hammer you can wield, the better.
My 7 year old has slackened on drilling just ordering thanls matey..
I got a new DDF487 and the chuck has more wobble to it than I like. Is this fixable with a decent chuck or is this a problem of the spindle?
I doubt if it's the chuck. More likely the sindle/bearing. It might be with in manufacturer tolerance though. I'd be temped to go back to the supplier and compare it with another one.
Handy tip mate. 👍
Thank you. I've now now got some serviceable drills again.
I can‘t get mine loose now matter how hard I‘ll hit it with the hammer. Any ideas???
Although the the chuck, gearbox and motor are locked together in low gear it is still possible to rotate it via the chuck; you can hear the gears moving in reverse. A sudden striking force should eventually free the chuck from the gearbox shaft. Sometimes they're really stubborn, all I can suggest is get the biggest, longest allen key you can find and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. Good luck!
Thanks for the video, unfortunately even following your instructions it still didn’t work for me. The motor still turns when I try to knock the chuck free. Still I do appreciate you taking the time to make the video.
Thanks. Although the the chuck, gearbox and motor are locked together in low gear it is still possible to rotate it via the chuck; you can hear the gears moving in reverse. A sudden striking force should eventually free the chuck from the gearbox shaft. Sometimes they're really stubborn, all I can suggest is get the biggest, longest allen key you can find and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. Good luck!
@@ShedTV It worked!! Not sure what was different, same thing I did the other times, just decided to work this time… but then I get the old chuck off only to find the new chuck I got doesn’t fit :(.
@@GeoRedtick Good work, half way there then! Is the chuck the wrong size thread? You need a 1/2" x 20 UNF chuck. If it fits but it's fouling the gearbox an M12 or 1/2" washer can help.
@@ShedTV Well I thought I had ordered a 1/2, but I actually ordered a 9/16. I received the 1/2 today and everything works now. Thanks for your time helping me out.
@@GeoRedtick Happy days. Glad to help.
I'm having problem at the hammering stage, the chuck still won't turn after millions of hitting.
Hmm. I know they can stubborn. Try soaking it in WD40 for a few days. Find the longest allen key you've got and the biggest hammer and hit it hard. Good luck!
@@ShedTV will do, thanks.
Any tips how to remove a stuck screw?
This can be very difficult. A good quality screwdriver which fits the slot in the screw is key. Preferably with a good sized handle for maximum leverage. Perversely, you may loosen it by trying to turn a quarter turn the other way (anti-clockwise in this case), before trying to undo it. I know some people have had success using an impact driver, but if you strip the head you are in a whole world of pain and misery, potentially drilling out the screw or cutting off the chuck.
@@ShedTV might have to resort to cutting it off
I can never get the bloody bolt out to start with. Feel like these videos are all done on near new drills where parts haven't tightened or binded over the years
I have done a lot of them and yes, some have been a real struggle.
That's all very nice except this is how to exchange a working chuck with another working chuck. My Makita chuck has a drill bit stuck in it. OOPS ... just scrolled down to see if anyone else had this problem. Sure enough the answer is there. Thanks, I'm off to see if it can be done.
If you need inspiration (and want to see me struggle!), have a look at these three films where I deal with jammed chucks:
th-cam.com/video/F_5EXg5oYuI/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/KQX3DQ2_EUw/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/VoXUFx5lPnA/w-d-xo.html
Good luck to others. I definitely broke my drill trying this. I guess since the chuck was broken it was worth trying but I was hoping for different results.
That's unfortunate. What type of drill is it and in what manner did it break?
@@ShedTV Makita XFD13. There was something wrong with the chuck - it wouldn’t tighten all the way for smaller bits - hence the need to replace. I got a big hex key tight on there and after a few whacks with a rubber mallet it still wouldn’t loosen up. I popped the battery back in and it no longer rotated - would shake a bit at first but no rotation in either direction.
@@lifeasinterns That's interesting, I've not come across that scenario before. I have seen those brushless drills get shaky and grind to a stop, but it's usually because they've done a lot of work, the bearing at the very back gives out and the whole drivetrain starts wobbling about until it kills itself. Don't think I can be any real help, I'm afraid.
Help please. My drill is stuck in the screwdriver mode, any tips appreciated ?
@@bernardwarr4187 Spray a good amount of lubricant, maybe WD40, and try to work it back and forth.
very good. thank you :-)
exelente thank you
Thank you.
You can only get DeWalt chuck at Screwfix and it seems a surprisingly reasonable price (£20). Would this go onto a Makita?
That DeWalt chuck (DT7043-QZ) does have have the correct 1/2" x 20 UNF thread, so I'd be 99% sure it fits. I've fitted several different chucks to Makitas and the only problem I've had was with one ROHM chuck where the threaded part was slightly recessed causing the chuck to foul on the gearbox. I solved this with an M12 washer. Hope this helps you.
@@ShedTV It does. Thanks very much for your time. Subbed
@@crackerdan8010 Cheers mate!
Legend
Thank you.
What size Allen key did you use?
A 10mm Allen key is the biggest you can fit in a 13mm chuck.
Thank you!
followed instructions to the letter , chuck will not spin off when striking it , its a brand new drill.?
Although the the chuck, gearbox and motor are locked together in low gear it is still possible to rotate it via the chuck; you can hear the gears moving in reverse. A sudden striking force should eventually free the chuck from the gearbox shaft. Sometimes they're really stubborn, all I can suggest is get the biggest, longest allen key you can find and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. Good luck!
Thanks for this, I too watched a few videos and wasted a lot of time twatting an Allen key to no avail. Going to try this in a bit, just hope I haven't broken anything else from all the fruitless bashing
Good luck!
It worked 😎 weird though, tried it loads of times before it actually released, it's all in the swing I think
My chuck doesn’t close so I can’t get an Allen key in there, is there another method?
Thanks again
In that scenario, things are obviously more difficult. The same principle still applies to the drill settings. I have come across this once and tried to cut the chuck up to be able to grip it with self-grip pliers. Whilst it is theoretically possible, I managed to break the gearbox in the process! I think your best hope is to try to jam something into the broken chuck (maybe a big allen key ground to a taper?) and hit that.
Hey! Have you got any advice if when in drill mode and on low gear, it’s just pulling the motor round with the hammer blows?
I’ve got a DHP453 which has spent a long time masonry drilling and with the central screw removed, low gear, drill mode and with a 10mm Allen in the Chuck, it’s pulling the motor round…
All I can say is that it's the shock which frees it. The longer the allen key and the harder you can hit it, with the biggest hammer you can wield, the better.
@@ShedTV stupid question, as I’m sure I checked the direction you were hitting…
The Chuck is on a standard R/H thread?
@@skateboard4zero Not a stupid question. Yes, it's a standard RH thread for the chuck, just the retaining screw has a LH thread.
@@ShedTV I've had to give in and send it to a local repair shop, still wouldn't budge with a 12mm allen key and a 3lb lump hammer and I was starting to damage the drill 😢
I was hoping this was the answer. Great video. But Chuck will not come free, just turns the gearing no matter how hard I hit it
Thanks. Although the the chuck, gearbox and motor are locked together in low gear it is still possible to rotate it via the chuck; you can hear the gears moving in reverse. A sudden striking force should eventually free the chuck from the gearbox shaft. Sometimes they're really stubborn, all I can suggest is get the biggest, longest allen key you can find and hit it as hard as you can with your biggest hammer. Good luck!
I kind of gave up, I had a 12mm Alan key, a 4lb lump hammer, I’d used a bit of oil around the Chuck, and i still can’t get it. It just slows down through the gears.
Drill set to drill. Number one speed, first gear, and nope!
It’s a hefty drill, Makita DHP481.
Assume it’s the same though. I wanted to put a plastic Chuck on instead of the metal, plastic one came off easy enough.
@@benhill7904 Yes, same settings. Just out of interest, the DHP481 has got a good quality Japanese-made all-steel chuck, why do you want to change it for a plastic one?
Metal Chuck is horrible.
There’s no grip to it at all, I often have to remove gloves to tighten fully, and it can over open. If I grip and drill to open it up, it goes to far and makes a horrible noise, and then quite often sticks open.
The drill is awesome though if you exclude the Chuck. Goes through brick like it’s plastic
Cool, thanks!
Thanks.
Well, I followed all your instructions to the letter and the chuck still won’t come off. So what now?
Ask TH-cam for your money back?