Three questions. 1. Do you leave the lid on during this process or do you leave it open so steam/moisture can escape? 2. So after putting in 15 gallons and running it for 1hr at 100deg then letting it sit for 24hrs, what moisture content % drop do you expect? I have one of these Maxant bottling tanks and think this would be a great use. 3. Do you use this bottling tank for wax melting? Thanks again for your answers!
Good questions. When I leave it for overnight or for any extended period with honey in it, I leave the lid on. I don’t want to encourage ants or other critters who might find themselves swimming in the honey. As soon as I think I’m ready to put it into buckets or jars, I first open the lid and inspect the underside. It isn’t uncommon for there to be condensation collected there. I dry this off with a towel. When I am trying to reduce the moisture content from high moisture honey, I blend in honey with low moisture content. The result depends on the moisture content of both and the relative quantities of each. I do a little algebra to estimate the end result but also use a refractometer to check the final product. I don’t melt wax in mine. A bit too messy for me. I have some solar wax melters that I use for my wax. Thanks for watching. Dan
Thanks for this. I extract about 800 lbs. I put supers in a small mud room with a dehumidifier. Then I get extract when I get around to it. Maybe a week or so later. I test as I bring in just out of curiosity. I test the open cells in partially capped frames. I test completely uncapped frames. When it is extracting time of the year, I have yet to find cells of less than 18.5% when I bring them into the mud room. Yesterday I tested a frame with no cappings at all on either side. 16.5%! At least in my apiary in Mid-MD, it appears that uncapped cells are the beneficiaries of all the drying out going on all around. Just tested a bucket of honey from 2 suppers of partially-capped frames. 17.8%. I think too much is emphasis is placed on waiting until frames are 80% to 100% capped.
Actually testing is the only way to be sure. No question about it. We’ve had a nice, wet spring. Uncapped honey coming in at close to 19% isn’t a surprise. In years past I’ve seen it higher….and in other years lower. Curing it in the comb is much faster than trying to do so in a bucket, yet many people try to do that. When I bring it into the honey house, I want to extract and be done. So, for me whatever works fastest is the way I tend to go. Blending it with lower moisture honey is my preferred method so I can move on to the next yard.
As you might guess, I use food grade buckets. Beekeepers have been storing honey in this type of container for decades. What do you suggest that I test for? Are you aware of any history of contamination?
@@desmondsimmons1436 The buckets that I use have a gasket in the cover. They seal up very well. I check the moisture content before closing them. I don’t see any way for them to collect additional moisture after they’ve been closed.
Three questions. 1. Do you leave the lid on during this process or do you leave it open so steam/moisture can escape? 2. So after putting in 15 gallons and running it for 1hr at 100deg then letting it sit for 24hrs, what moisture content % drop do you expect? I have one of these Maxant bottling tanks and think this would be a great use. 3. Do you use this bottling tank for wax melting? Thanks again for your answers!
Good questions.
When I leave it for overnight or for any extended period with honey in it, I leave the lid on. I don’t want to encourage ants or other critters who might find themselves swimming in the honey. As soon as I think I’m ready to put it into buckets or jars, I first open the lid and inspect the underside. It isn’t uncommon for there to be condensation collected there. I dry this off with a towel.
When I am trying to reduce the moisture content from high moisture honey, I blend in honey with low moisture content. The result depends on the moisture content of both and the relative quantities of each. I do a little algebra to estimate the end result but also use a refractometer to check the final product.
I don’t melt wax in mine. A bit too messy for me. I have some solar wax melters that I use for my wax.
Thanks for watching.
Dan
@@boogerhillbee thanks for the response, i appreciate it.
Thanks for this. I extract about 800 lbs. I put supers in a small mud room with a dehumidifier. Then I get extract when I get around to it. Maybe a week or so later. I test as I bring in just out of curiosity. I test the open cells in partially capped frames. I test completely uncapped frames. When it is extracting time of the year, I have yet to find cells of less than 18.5% when I bring them into the mud room. Yesterday I tested a frame with no cappings at all on either side. 16.5%! At least in my apiary in Mid-MD, it appears that uncapped cells are the beneficiaries of all the drying out going on all around. Just tested a bucket of honey from 2 suppers of partially-capped frames. 17.8%. I think too much is emphasis is placed on waiting until frames are 80% to 100% capped.
Actually testing is the only way to be sure. No question about it.
We’ve had a nice, wet spring. Uncapped honey coming in at close to 19% isn’t a surprise. In years past I’ve seen it higher….and in other years lower. Curing it in the comb is much faster than trying to do so in a bucket, yet many people try to do that.
When I bring it into the honey house, I want to extract and be done. So, for me whatever works fastest is the way I tend to go. Blending it with lower moisture honey is my preferred method so I can move on to the next yard.
I agree Dave. Too much
I love it, wearing a Dadant hat using a Maxant bottling tank. I have a Dadant hat just like the one you're wearing but mine is very worn.
My Dadant cap is worn out too. It is funny that I never noticed the Dadant cap/Maxant tank thing.
@@boogerhillbee I had a guy a couple of years ago that offered me $50.00 for my Dadant cap. Had to tell him, sorry... it's not for sale. :-D :-D
Have you ever tested the honey after its been in a 5 gal bucket for a few months?
As you might guess, I use food grade buckets. Beekeepers have been storing honey in this type of container for decades. What do you suggest that I test for? Are you aware of any history of contamination?
@@boogerhillbee I use food grade buckets also was wondering if you tested mostior level after bucket has been stored for a long time.
@@desmondsimmons1436 The buckets that I use have a gasket in the cover. They seal up very well. I check the moisture content before closing them. I don’t see any way for them to collect additional moisture after they’ve been closed.
Hello sir، How to dry extracted Honey?
please any one answer