Hello again sir. I just wanted to confirm without being an A**hole like that that other guy that on my 2000 E320 RWD Sedan ( Non-4matic ) I was able to replace both of my engine mounts without touching the steering rack or exhaust in any way. What worked for me was removing the air filter housing and duct work to the front of the car, the cooling fan assembly ( not required but just was so simple to remove and gives you more room ), removed the serpentine belt, and both the A/C compressor bolts and Alternator bolts. Do not disconnect the A/C lines. There was enough give in the hoses to move the A/C compressor forward enough to let the mount come out. The alternator needed to be popped out of the brackets and slid forward. Just two inverted torx bolts on the alternator and 3 on the compressor. Very straight forward. There is a small coolant hose just below the alternator. This gave me a little trouble moving the alternator forward and reinstalling, but nothing too bad. Just be cautious and patient. There's a 16mm bolt on top and 13mm on the bottom that must be removed before raising the engine. Then by carefully jacking underneath the oil pan with wood blocks between the pan and the jack (rubber would be better if you have it) I was able to lift the engine up enough to remove the mounts. The heat shields over top of the mounts have a rectangular slot that faces the opposite direction of the engine. The driver's side heat shield slot faces the driver's side fender, and vise versa. Someone else had asked, and if they read this my 2000 E320 top bolt was 16mm and the bottom was 13mm. I didn't require any speciality tools to remove the top 16mm bolt on either side nor the bottom but that shouldn't be an issue for anyone. I don't have any of the splash shields under the car since I bought it. They may cover the bottom 13mm bolts. I have been doing this for 20 years+ so I have more hand strength than many DIY'ers. Be patient. I am impatient a lot of the time but working on Mercedes you better be patient because if you break anything it ain't cheap. Reinstallation was a breeze. I put the bolt through the heat shield for both sides and reached under the manifold to put the bolt through the top of the bracket of each side. If you feel the underside of the bracket you can feel the two fingers that the single finger on the mount goes between. I hand threaded the top bolt into the mounts until I could feel the finger of the engine mount between the bracket without enough slop to pop out. You do want to leave the bolt slightly loose so you can move the mount around slightly to line up the bottom 13mm bolt. Once you get the bottom bolts started, lower the engine all the way down very slowly. Tighten the bottom then the top. Then double check both again. This is what worked for me. Hopefully, it helps someone if they decide to try the way I tried it rather than this gentleman's fantastic alternative. Thanks JagVette!
@@jagvette1 He doesn't know what he's talking about. Like most people who run their mouth unnecessarily. The alternator is on the passenger side of the engine, when looking at the engine with the hood open. The A/C compressor is in front of the engine mount on the driver's side. Whether it can come out from there or not makes no difference. One way or another you have to disassemble something to remove it. Great videos.
Hello again sir. I just wanted to confirm without being an A**hole like that that other guy that on my 2000 E320 RWD Sedan ( Non-4matic ) I was able to replace both of my engine mounts without touching the steering rack or exhaust in any way. What worked for me was removing the air filter housing and duct work to the front of the car, the cooling fan assembly ( not required but just was so simple to remove and gives you more room ), removed the serpentine belt, and both the A/C compressor bolts and Alternator bolts. Do not disconnect the A/C lines. There was enough give in the hoses to move the A/C compressor forward enough to let the mount come out. The alternator needed to be popped out of the brackets and slid forward. Just two inverted torx bolts on the alternator and 3 on the compressor. Very straight forward. There is a small coolant hose just below the alternator. This gave me a little trouble moving the alternator forward and reinstalling, but nothing too bad. Just be cautious and patient. There's a 16mm bolt on top and 13mm on the bottom that must be removed before raising the engine. Then by carefully jacking underneath the oil pan with wood blocks between the pan and the jack (rubber would be better if you have it) I was able to lift the engine up enough to remove the mounts. The heat shields over top of the mounts have a rectangular slot that faces the opposite direction of the engine. The driver's side heat shield slot faces the driver's side fender, and vise versa. Someone else had asked, and if they read this my 2000 E320 top bolt was 16mm and the bottom was 13mm. I didn't require any speciality tools to remove the top 16mm bolt on either side nor the bottom but that shouldn't be an issue for anyone. I don't have any of the splash shields under the car since I bought it. They may cover the bottom 13mm bolts. I have been doing this for 20 years+ so I have more hand strength than many DIY'ers. Be patient. I am impatient a lot of the time but working on Mercedes you better be patient because if you break anything it ain't cheap.
Reinstallation was a breeze. I put the bolt through the heat shield for both sides and reached under the manifold to put the bolt through the top of the bracket of each side. If you feel the underside of the bracket you can feel the two fingers that the single finger on the mount goes between. I hand threaded the top bolt into the mounts until I could feel the finger of the engine mount between the bracket without enough slop to pop out. You do want to leave the bolt slightly loose so you can move the mount around slightly to line up the bottom 13mm bolt. Once you get the bottom bolts started, lower the engine all the way down very slowly. Tighten the bottom then the top. Then double check both again. This is what worked for me. Hopefully, it helps someone if they decide to try the way I tried it rather than this gentleman's fantastic alternative. Thanks JagVette!
There is always more than one way to skin a cat and I am sure others will find your method helpful.
Thank you for the information and making this video :)
Hope it helps you do this job rather than pay a garage
Thank you so much
glad it was of use to you.
Did you have to disconnect the tie rod ends from each side or just unbolting the rack let it drop down? Thanks
no i did not, I just pulled the rack down after removing the bolt, but be careful with the steering hoses.
Hey there. I don’t recall you saying what was the top bolt size on the motor mounts? Thanks
Oh Hell sorry it was a log time ago and I do not have the car close at hand
They are most commonly 16mm some are 17mm.
16 top and 13 bottom if anyone needs to know !!
Terrible video way too much talking. Fastest way for that driver side is to remove the alternator and it comes out through the top easil
then I suggest you don't watch my videos, simple
@@jagvette1 at least you're right about that
@@jagvette1 He doesn't know what he's talking about. Like most people who run their mouth unnecessarily. The alternator is on the passenger side of the engine, when looking at the engine with the hood open. The A/C compressor is in front of the engine mount on the driver's side. Whether it can come out from there or not makes no difference. One way or another you have to disassemble something to remove it. Great videos.
Good video. Not looking forward to this job!
It’s not too bad have a six pack on hand and take your time it can be tricky but as you see from the video possible.